Staircase to the second floor in a private house with your own hands drawings. DIY stairs to the second floor

If there is more than one floor in a private house, you cannot do without a staircase. But besides the fact that it must connect the floors, the staircase must also fit into the interior. Therefore, when choosing a design, you need to pay attention not only not to the dimensions and how much space it takes in the room, but also to take into account the style. Then the staircase to the second floor, made by hand, will be not only a functional item, but also an interior decoration. The work is difficult and responsible, but you can do it.

Types of stairs to the second floor in a private house

All of these structures can be made from metal, wood, concrete, glass, marble and other decorative stones, and combinations of these materials are often used. But most often the staircase to the second floor is made of wood with your own hands, a little less often - from metal or combinations of metal and wood.

In addition, there are two types of degrees - open and closed. In open stairs there is only a horizontally located part - the step itself, in closed ones - there is also a vertical part - a riser.

Design standards

When developing a staircase project, it is important to make it comfortable and safe. There are very specific numbers and recommendations that relate to the parameters of the steps and the general angle of rise:

The number of steps is determined by simply dividing the height of the planned staircase by the selected riser height. For example, the height of the room is 285 cm. It was decided to make the elevation angle 40 °. According to the table, we see that the height of the riser is 19 cm. Divide 285 cm / 19 cm = 15 steps. If the number turns out to be even, we accordingly slightly adjust the size to get an odd number.

If one of the steps turns out to be several centimeters less, this height is "taken away" from the first step. All others, including the last one, must be the same.

When choosing the size of the steps, the comfort can be checked. If the doubled riser height is added to the selected step width, the result should be from 60 ms to 64 cm. The second test option is that the sum of the tread and riser lengths is optimally 45 cm, but deviations of 2 cm in both directions are permissible.

All these parameters should be laid down when designing a house. If the house has already been built, you have to proceed from the fact that there is and adjust the dimensions to the existing dimensions.

Spiral staircase

As already mentioned, a spiral staircase in a private house takes up the least amount of space. But it has a serious drawback: it is inconvenient to walk on it, and it is almost impossible to lift anything bulky to the second floor. So they are not very popular, although they look good and fit well into any interior.

Calculation features

When designing a spiral staircase, one must take into account that in some positions, there are other steps above the head. Therefore, it will not work to make small risers.

The next feature is that the steps all have an unequal width - with one narrower, with the other wider. With a narrow part, they are attached to the central support (pillar), with a wide part - to walls or balusters. The standard for the width of the tread is measured in the middle part, and the wide one should not be more than 40 cm.

The width of the span is from 50 cm to 100 cm. The distance to the entire structure is doubled - a square with a side from 100 cm to 200 cm is required.

Column-mounted structure

This type of spiral staircase is the easiest to make: a pipe is placed on which wooden elements are put on - steps, intermediate cylinders, etc.

If you look in more detail, then in addition to a metal pipe (in this case with a diameter of 40 mm), steps and balusters (available in any design), there are turned wooden cylinders (segments) that set the distance from one step to another.

On the other hand, the distance between the steps is maintained using saws on balusters. Steps are attached to these grooves (with glue + fasteners).

Do-it-yourself installation of stairs to the second floor begins with the installation of a pillar. A hole is made in the floor of the first floor and the ceiling of the second, equal to the diameter of the pillar. We insert the pipe into the hole, put on an enlarged washer, tighten the nut. Further, the assembly is simple: the corresponding elements are put on the rod, in parallel with the installation of the step, a baluster is placed and fixed. The dimensions of the steps for this spiral staircase with the specified parameters are in the drawing.

Steps are cut from glued board or furniture board. You can use an array, but furniture quality, that is, without any defects and dried, with a moisture content of no more than 8-12%. Although glued wood is considered more reliable: it will definitely not lead and it will not crack when it shrinks.

For an example of an assembly of a similar design, see the video. It has a prefabricated post, but you can also use a solid one, although it will be inconvenient to assemble the steps - each time you have to climb the stairs.

The construction of a spiral staircase made of metal is presented in the following video clip. For those who are friends with welding, this option will be easier.

Spiral staircase to the second floor: photos of interesting options

With or without railings, the choice is yours. In the photo on the right, a wooden spiral staircase on a curved stringer is a difficult element for execution Forged spiral staircases are a classic of the genre

Marching stairs to the second floor

Marching stairs are the most popular. Firstly, it is convenient to use them, and secondly, the technology of their construction has been worked out long ago. There are few features of the calculation. It is important to decide on the number of marches. In one area there should be from 3 to 15 o steps. The most convenient ones have 11-13 pieces. If by calculation it turns out that there should be more steps, they are divided into several sections, between which platforms are made. The dimensions of the platforms are multiples of the step length (600-630 mm). Then the ascent and descent will not cause inconvenience.

Views

Ladders with platforms take up a lot of space. If there is not enough space, turns are added. The most common option is to place the staircase on two adjacent walls at the corners. Also, to save space, you can make cross-country (turning) steps instead of a platform. Only one moment: the section with winder steps is the most traumatic. If the family has small children or elderly people, it is better to make a playground.

As mentioned earlier, marching stairs are made on kosoura (beams with a sawtooth edge) and on terivs (just an inclined beam). Attaching steps to string beams takes more time and skill. Usually, a seat is cut out for each step - a groove is selected in the board. For additional reliability, bars are still nailed from below or corners are installed. The option with corners is reliable, but rather controversial from an aesthetic point of view. If the entire staircase is made of wood, the metal parts are very "cutting" the look. Neatly processed bars look much more organic. However, with a sufficient thickness of the boards for the steps and the width of the bowstring, you can do without additional fasteners. In this case, it is important that the steps do not bend, otherwise they may jump out of the grooves.

The assembly of steps on kosoura is simpler: you have two or three supports to which the cut-to-size parts are attached. The main task is to correctly mark and cut out the stringers.

This is a staircase on kosoura - one of the fragments of the assembly

Installation of a flight staircase with step-by-step photos

Kosoura are made from a wide board 75-80 mm thick and 350-400 mm wide. If there is no massive dry board, you can use glued boards. How to calculate the kosour is described in the form, but you can assemble the stairs to the second floor not only as a stand-alone one.

An example of assembling a staircase on kosoura near the wall further. First, we fix the supporting pillars on which the run-in steps will rest. We attach the upper stringers to these posts.

Then we put the lower ones. We fasten the stringer near the wall over the decorative board - it is easier to wash it and the dirt is less visible than on the wall.

We fasten the lower stringers - one to the post, the second to the finishing board

Intermediate stringers are installed last. It's easier to dock all the elements this way.

Installation of steps begins. After they are cut, sanded and painted, everything is simple: we put it in place, screw the hole under the self-tapping screw, then tighten it.

The next step is to attach the balusters. In this case, they are made of stainless steel pipe with wood inserts. A hole is drilled under each baluster, into which the tube is inserted, it is fixed on a hairpin or in any other available way.

Photos of interesting marching stairs to the 2nd floor

Metal and glass - an interesting combination An interesting idea, and from the end - a pantry

When building a frame house, sometimes the question arises of how to build a wooden staircase? Most of the projects involve a second or attic floor. Ladders come in a wide variety of materials.

But wood is the most popular and simplest material, as well as environmentally friendly and convenient. Anyone can handle this material. Building and installing stairs with your own hands is a tangible cost savings.

There are two main types of wooden stairs - spiral and marching.

Marching stairs are the most common and simplest, and if you are new to construction, choose this type of stairs.

As a rule, such schemes are prepared in electronic form. There are special computer programs and applications that will allow you to create such models. Professional programs for construction companies have a 3D function. Although, for the construction of a marching staircase, this is not at all necessary, the usual on paper will be enough.

Standard interfloor wooden stairs are installed on stringers or bowstrings. The difference is as follows: the bowstrings are located on the side of the steps, and the stringers are under the steps.

A flight ladder usually has two side bowstrings. Its steps are attached on both sides. Consider the installation and installation of stairs with just such a technology.

Installation of a flight staircase

Initially, we draw up a detailed diagram for the staircase and its parts. Pre-cut steps from the boards, make 2 bowstrings and special support bars. Next, we connect the steps with the bowstrings. We make a support bar under each step. We mount all bowstrings to the floor and to the walls.

Kosuar and bowstrings

Spiral interfloor wooden staircase

Oak spiral staircase

If you cannot build a staircase with your own hands, then you can opt for a ready-made screw wooden structure. The advantage of this staircase is that it will significantly save space in the house.

It is important to take into account when building a spiral staircase its angle of inclination. If it is too steep, it can be dangerous to health, especially if there are children and the elderly in the house.

An easy way to install and install a spiral staircase is to buy a ready-made, measured structure. on installation will also bring you significant benefits.

A spiral wooden staircase consists of three main parts: a rack, a railing and a step. When choosing wood for your steps, choose oak. It is not only one of the most durable materials, but also has a beautiful look and excellent performance.

Before buying a spiral staircase, measure the dimensions in detail in order to find the right structure for your home. There is another option - to hire a specialist who will take all the measurements himself, and then place an order for the stairs. If you have the skills in construction, you can make the steps yourself, while ordering only the rack and railings. Usually, racks and railings are made to order, chiseled, although there are also rectangular ones.

The device of a spiral staircase

• On one side, the steps are attached to the rack, and on the other, they have holes for the railing.
• Racks are most often metal. They have a flange to which the steps are attached.
• The most common ladder design is “duck step”. It assumes a special form of steps.
• The rack is mounted between floors. It is attached to the floor with anchor bolts.

• After installing the rack, the steps are installed. The distance between steps should not exceed 20 cm. This is for your safety. When assembling and installing steps, calculate so that the last step of the staircase fits exactly to the floor of the second floor.

The spiral staircase, like the march staircase, has many decorative elements and details. And each set has its own decorations and different parts and fastening elements. When installing and installing a simple marching staircase, the calculation is different, the geometry of the opening here is rectangular. The opening at the spiral staircase is a circle.

If you decide to order a ready-made wooden staircase, then contact a trusted and reliable company with good reviews. It is up to you to buy a ready-made wooden staircase or make it yourself.

Staining stairs

Painting stairs

Stair painting is divided into three main parts:

1. preliminary preparation of all parts of the stairs;
2. painting the stairs and its parts;
3. painting the stairs with a protective varnish layer.

Before starting work, you need to prepare each element of our stairs for painting. And this means: and. Puttying must be done with special mixtures for wood. The use of compounds that are not suitable for wood is strictly prohibited.

When the putty layer is dry, we proceed to sanding the surface. Grinding takes place in two stages. The first stage is rough, it is also called superficial. After it, you need to wait a few days. You will notice that fluff forms on the surface of the wood. Blow with air before sanding the second time.

After sanding is completed, the board will be perfectly flat and smooth. Now feel free to start applying the first coat.

Before painting, apply a coat of primer to the wooden staircase. And it is better to choose a primer to match the paint.

When choosing paint, focus on alkyd or urethane coatings. Such paints are ideal for a flight of stairs. Choose lighter tones from the color scheme.

If desired, instead of paint, you can use, or use a stain or varnish. The advantages of wood stain are that it perfectly emphasizes and highlights the unique pattern of the wood. Your staircase will look perfect. Choose a stain along with a varnish. And do not save when buying. The better the coloring composition, the longer the ladder will serve you. Stain is not only a decorative finish, but also protection from various factors.

After the paint has dried, apply a top coat of varnish. Choose a matte or semi-matt varnish. Varnishing is carried out in three stages. Moreover, before each subsequent application, the previous layer of varnish must dry out. If air bubbles form on the varnish, simply sand them after finishing painting.

Video on making a straight staircase

Video for making a spiral staircase

Most private residences today have more than one floor, which means there are stairs to the upper levels. This article will provide instructions on how to correctly make a staircase to the second floor from wood on your own and according to your own project, it will tell you what rules you should adhere to, as well as how to make calculations.

Calculation of the main parameters

A self-made staircase will not only be cheaper than ordered in specialized workshops, but will also exactly meet your requirements and desires. The main thing is to approach its creation with intelligence and patience. To do this, the first step is to make accurate measurements and calculate all the important design parameters.

Consider the calculation of the dimensions of the steps and other parameters of the stairs using the example of a marching structure on kosoura - the simplest project. This structure consists of load-bearing boards, steps or treads and risers. In addition to the size of the stairs, you also need to decide on its slope. You can clearly see what angle range will be acceptable for the design in the diagram below.

As you can see, the most convenient, and most importantly and safe, tilt angle is considered to be in the range of 23-37 °. Choosing the slope you need for your room, it is worth considering that with a small area, it is worth choosing the largest angle, then the required space for the structure will be the smallest, and vice versa.

Attention! If the angle of inclination of the stairs is too high, it will be more problematic to lift something or move it to the second floor. And if the angle is less than 23 °, then it is easier to install a ramp.

The width of the march is determined by the number of people who can climb it at the same time. At least this value can be about 1 m, but it is recommended to build a structure from 1.25-1.5 m in width. The height of the stairs will be fixed depending on the layout of the house. It is the distance from the floor of the 1st floor to its ceiling plus the thickness of the ceiling of the second level.

Now we need to calculate how many steps are needed for our staircase. The calculation is carried out on the basis of the recommended step height for comfortable movement - from 18 to 20 cm.Choosing the step height, you can calculate their number by dividing the fixed height of the entire structure by the independently selected step height.

In addition, it is also necessary to determine the width of the tread, which should vary in the range of 25-30 cm. It depends on the size of the feet of the residents of the house - the length of the foot. By multiplying this value by the number of steps, you can get a projection of the structure onto the floor of the first floor. It remains only to determine the length of the entire staircase.

The length is calculated using a simple formula, which you may still remember from the school course - the Pythagorean theorem. The figure above shows all the parameters and the calculation formula. When all the parameters are calculated, you can proceed to the procurement of material and the manufacture of structural elements.

Manufacturing and installation of stairs according to the calculated parameters

As a material for a wooden staircase, craftsmen most often use oak, conifers, linden and so on. Choose according to the overall style of the interior and your budget. Excellent railings can be made from a blockhouse, and for balusters, you can use wooden blocks of 500x500 mm.

To create a kosour with precise notches for the steps, it is necessary to mark up using a template. Below is an illustrated instruction for this event. For marking, you will need a piece and a square, and of course a pencil. The kosour itself can be made from a bar of wood about 14x16 in size.

The marked marks now need to be worked with a circular saw. When carving steps, you must move with extreme caution so as not to go beyond the markings. When one kosour is ready, cut the rest along it.

Note! The more stringers in the structure, the stronger and tougher the staircase will come out. It will also help to avoid unwanted step deflections and loosening of the entire structure.

Now all that remains is the cutting of steps and risers, the size of the first will depend on the thickness of the latter. In addition, do not forget about the step ledge about 2-4 cm above the step itself. To create a more cost-effective appearance of the steps, you can process the edges with a round cutter.

When all the details are ready, it is necessary to conduct a trial fitting of the structure. If everything is in order, you can start grinding the parts and assembling the structure. The connection of all the components of the staircase is coated with carpentry or PVA glue, and is also necessarily fastened for reliability with stainless steel screws.

The final finishing touch will be the decorative design of the stairs - varnishing or covering with wood stain, paint and other means. First of all, a stain is applied, and when the layer is dry, you can start varnishing (recommended in more than 1 layer) with a waterproof agent. The stain can also be replaced by drying oil.

Attention! It is even better to cover with a stain before assembling the entire structure, in this case the joints, which will be coated with glue, must be protected with molar tape.

A ladder is a rather complex and very responsible construction, but every home craftsman who has at least minimal experience in working with wood can make it. The main thing is to first familiarize yourself with the basic rules, requirements and nuances of its manufacture, which will be discussed later.

Design, or how to make a ladder comfortable and safe

It is necessary to decide on the design of the future staircase. It can be of the following types:

• spiral - the steps of such a staircase are run-in (rotary), located around one axis. The main advantage of the screw design is its compactness. The disadvantages include the inconvenience of use and the complexity of manufacturing. Therefore, if you are going to make a staircase for the first time, it is better to refuse a spiral structure;
• marching - has even flights of stairs (one or more), as a result of which it is much more convenient to use. True, the flight staircase takes up a lot of space.

Next, we will consider how marching wooden stairs are made, and start with the calculation and design. To make the design comfortable and safe, when performing the calculation, you must take into account the following rules and requirements for it:

• steps cannot be made of different widths and heights - this is one of the main rules, non-observance of which can lead to injuries;
• steps cannot be made below 160 mm and above 190 mm;
• the step should not be narrower than 220 mm and wider than 330 mm;
• the width of the march should not be less than 900–1000 mm;
• the number of steps must be odd, which will allow you to start and end the movement on the stairs with the same foot;
• for the stairs to be comfortable, marches should have 11-15 steps;
• between the march and the ceiling (overlap of the second floor), the distance should be at least 2 m, however, this rule applies more to the dimensions of the opening, and not to the structure of the staircase itself.

We begin the calculation of the structure by measuring the height between the floor of the first and the floor of the second floor. Then it is imperative to measure the width and length of the site.

For example, the ceiling height is 2500 mm. let's take the middle one - 170 mm. To calculate the number of steps in the march, you need to divide the total height by the height of the steps. The result is 2500/170 = 14.7. So the number of steps should be whole, we will correct their height - 2500/15 = 166 mm. Please note that in fact the march will have not 15, but 14 steps, since the function of the last step will be performed by the overlap of the second floor.

Now you need to decide on the width of the treads. To do this, we will use the following formula: step height, tread width = 430–450 mm. As a result, we get 450-166 = 284 mm, rounded and get 280 mm.

If necessary, adjust the step height or its width, within the acceptable values, so that the structure corresponds to the dimensions of the site. The only thing, when changing one parameter, recalculate the other parameters of the staircase, as they are interconnected.

If you do not have room for a staircase that is more than four meters long, it can be divided into two flights. A staircase should separate them. The depth of the latter is always equal to the width of the span.

The use of turning steps instead of a staircase allows you to save even more space. But in this case, the ladder becomes less convenient to use. As for the flights, they can be located L-shaped if the staircase is angular, or at an angle of 380 degrees, i.e. parallel to each other.

Finally, you need to calculate the length of the beams. Knowing the height of the stairs and the length, this can be done by the Pythagorean theorem a 2 b 2 = c 2. Our legs are the length of the stairs (projection of the march to the floor) and the height of the stairs. Accordingly, we need to calculate the length of the hypotenuse.

Now you need to decide on its main structural points. The fact is that staircases are of several types:

• on bowstrings - treads are attached between the beams, while the beams (bowstrings) themselves are even, i.e. without cutouts for steps. Therefore, for fastening the treads in the face of the beams, grooves are milled or bars are attached - supports for the treads;
• on kosoura - they are distinguished by the presence of cutouts for the steps, therefore, the treads are not located between the beams, but are placed on top of them. This design provides the ladder with greater strength, moreover, it looks more attractive. But in terms of manufacturing, the staircase on kosoura is more complicated.

Then you need to decide on how to install the beams. If the staircase will have one span, then it will not need supports: the staircase rests on the floor and the overlap of the second floor. Two-flight stairs require the installation of support pillars on which the upper part of the lower flight, the landing and the lower part of the upper flight rests. Each string or stringer requires its own support. The exception is beams located near the wall - they can be fixed to the wall without supports.

When you decide on all the main points of the staircase, draw the structure on paper, you can even schematically, and indicate the dimensions of all staircase elements in millimeters.

We make the details of the stairs - the subtleties of the calculation

Start by trimming the boards to the length of the stringers. Then you need to mark the kosour - this is the most difficult and responsible operation. We start the marking by marking the points from which the cuts for the steps will be made. You can determine the distance between the notches on the stringer using the same Pythagorean theorem. Since the legs are the width of the tread and the height of the step, the distance between the edges of the steps in our case is 280 2 166 2 = 105956. We take the square root and get 325 mm.

Thus, on the edge of the future stringer, you need to apply points with a step of 325 mm. Then you need to use a square and draw tread lines and a riser through the obtained points, which form a right angle. The result should be rectangles, the hypotenuse of which is the edge of the stringer, and their vertices, respectively, points located on the edge with a step of 325 mm.

The bowstrings are marked in the same way. Then bars are attached to it under the steps or grooves are milled.

Now you need to make cuts for the steps according to the resulting markings. To do this, you can use a jigsaw or a regular hacksaw. The edges of the stringer must be cut at an angle to provide the maximum area of ​​support on the floor and beam of the landing or overlap.

Use the resulting stringer as a template for marking the counter beam. Then cut the cutouts in the same way. According to this principle, perform stringers for all flights of stairs.

Then prepare stands for supports from 70x70 or even 100x100 mm timber. Their height should correspond to the height of the lower flight. To calculate it, multiply the number of steps on the first flight by their height. If the staircase is L-shaped, then you will need four racks for the landing. In this case, the staircase itself will turn out to be square, as already mentioned above, its width is equal to the width of the march, most often it is 1000x1000 mm.

If the marches are parallel to each other, you will need 8 racks. In this case, the depth of the site should be equal to the width of the march, i.e. 1000 mm, and length 1000 1000 distance between flights.

You also need to make beams for strapping the racks. You can use the same timber from which the racks themselves are made. The length of the beams is equal to the distance between the landing posts.

At the end of the work, steps and risers need to be made. For their manufacture, use boards 30x300 mm. The length of the treads should correspond to the width of the march or be a couple of centimeters larger so that the tread hangs a little from the stringers. The risers are made of the same length, while their width should be less than the height of the step by the thickness of the riser, i.e. in our case - 166-30 = 136 mm.

Please note that the treads should hang about 1 cm above the lower treads.

We assemble a ladder from finished parts

Now we start assembling the stairs. First of all, you need to apply markings to the floor and walls adjacent to the stairs. This operation requires accuracy and care, since the assembly quality of the entire staircase depends on it.

Then, according to the markings, you need to install the supports of the staircase. If the floor is concrete, special glasses can be used for these purposes, corresponding to the cross-section of the racks.

Glasses are fixed to the floor with dowels. Then the racks are inserted into the glasses and fixed with self-tapping screws. During the installation of the racks, be sure to make sure that they do not deviate from the vertical.

Tie the installed racks with horizontal beams. If you have a router, you can make a tongue-and-groove connection, for this you need to mill grooves in the posts, and make spikes in the beams for these grooves. If such a tool is not at hand, the connection can be made using steel corners and self-tapping screws. To give the structure rigidity, coat the joints of all parts with wood glue.

Now we install the stringers. If the march is adjacent to the wall, fix the beam on it according to the markings. In a wooden house, custom screws can be used to fasten the beams to the walls, but if the wall is brick or concrete, fix the stringer with anchors. Use the fasteners in pairs, positioning them vertically 10 cm apart. Make a step of each pair of fasteners 20-25 centimeters.

The response stringer usually rests only on the landing post. It is advisable to fix it on the rack using a tongue-and-groove method and self-tapping screws. If this is not possible, use self-tapping screws, and also fix another horizontal beam under the stringer, on which it will also rest. According to this principle, stringers are mounted for all flights of stairs. When installing beams, be sure to use a level to make sure that the notches for the steps are opposite each other in the same horizontal plane.

Then we mount the treads and risers. The treads are laid on the cutouts in the stringers and fixed with self-tapping screws. To later hide the caps of the self-tapping screws, drill under the holes to a depth of several millimeters.

In order not to fasten the risers with self-tapping screws in the steps above and below them, you can cut a groove. The width of the groove must match the thickness of the riser. As a result, the risers will be fixed only by treads. If it is not possible to make grooves, secure the risers with self-tapping screws. In the process of installing treads and risers, also use wood glue.

So that the space under the stairs is not wasted in vain, you can make a cabinet under it. To do this, you just need to install the walls between the stringers and the floor, as well as install the doors.

We mount the staircase railing

Now you need to install the railing (railing). It can be anything - forged, chrome-plated stainless steel or even glass. But as an example, consider how a wooden fence is mounted.

The structure of the wooden railings consists of curly posts (balusters) and a handrail. If you have a lathe, you can make curly posts yourself. If there is no such equipment, the balusters can be purchased ready-made - the cost of a vigoured pine post starts on average from 150 rubles per piece.

Keep in mind that you will need two types of balusters - intermediate and extreme. The latter differ in size - they are larger. In addition, you will need dowels for fastening, which are available from your furniture store.

Step-by-step instructions for installing the fence are as follows:

1. 1. Mark the location of the fence: draw a straight line above the stringer, on which the balusters will be installed;
2. 2. Drill holes in the treads according to the diameter of the dowels. The holes can be positioned in the center of the tread;
3. 3. Coat the holes with glue and hammer the dowels into them;
4. 4. Drill holes in the lower end of the posts along the diameter of the dowels, then coat the holes with glue and put the balusters on the dowels;
5. 5. Cut the intermediate balusters at an angle corresponding to the slope of the march. To do this, fix a flat board parallel to the stringer on the edge of the posts. Cut the edges of the posts along this board.
6. 6. Fasten the handrail to the balusters by screwing in the self-tapping screws from below at an acute angle.

Finishing is the final touch

Now that the staircase is assembled, you need to finish it. First of all, the surface should be carefully sanded. Doing this work with your own hands is quite difficult and time-consuming, so use an angle grinder.

Then you need to fill in all the cracks, cracks and caps of the screws. If you plan to subsequently open the stairs with varnish, select a putty to match the color of the wood. After the putty has dried, be sure to sand it with fine sandpaper.

Now you can cover the stairs with paint and varnish material. It is best to use a water-based varnish - it has good abrasion resistance, while it dries quickly and is odorless. The only thing is that after applying the first layer of varnish, the staircase needs to be sanded again, since under the influence of moisture, the wood fibers rise, as a result of which the surface becomes rough. After that, you need to apply another 1-2 layers of varnish.

In order not to spoil the surface of the stairs, apply the varnish with a high-quality paint brush, with which the pile will not crawl out.

Ours is ready for this. As you can see, in general, there is really nothing super complicated in its manufacture.

The staircase is one of the most complex building modules... In more or less reputable construction organizations, special specialists are engaged in the design of stairs, and only them. But now, with the constant increase in prices for construction work, incl. design, and building land, many individual developers prefer to build their house on their own, starting with a project. And the cost of land plots in places with a sufficiently developed infrastructure immediately inclines to the choice of a two- or one-and-a-half-story house. In which there will necessarily be at least one staircase. And in a one-story house or a country house, you need to go up to the attic, go down to the basement. And it's best to do it more comfortably and safer. That is, in any house you cannot do without a staircase.

In this article, we will talk about what you need to know in order to make a staircase completely with your own hands or to choose a typical purchased one for personal needs. And also - so that the reader can correctly assess the advantages and disadvantages of step-by-step and video instructions from other sources. Behind the apparent simplicity of the staircase lies a very solid natural foundation, which can be discerned only with certain knowledge. And the constant use of stairs, which looks the same as others, but designed a little incorrectly, can lead to chronic health problems.

In building manuals and rules for stairs, it would seem, everything is written down to the smallest detail. But they are focused on public staircases in apartment buildings; it is impossible to take into account all the variety of individual characteristics and requirements with any general norms. Regarding stairs in private houses, both domestic SNiP and "foreign" DIN are limited to the most general guidelines. We are also not going to deduce a certain universal recipe for building stairs. But we will tell you:

• How to choose the right stairs to your home.
• How to calculate it for your specific family.
• What methods can be used to "squeeze" the staircase so that it takes away a minimum of usable area without losing convenience.
• What are the features of the construction of different types of stairs.

The article uses materials received from the most experienced designers and builders of stairs; most of them are unique. The design and construction of stairs in the house with their help allows you to gain 3-7% of the total area of ​​the building in relation to what comes out when "squeezing" into the project of typical stairs, taking into account the payment of consultations. Knowing how much it costs to build one common square in your region, you yourself will be able to calculate how much money from your hard-earned or mortgage, which must be paid at least twice, now you do not have to let it go down the drain, that is, bury it under the stairs.

About spiral staircases

Passion for spiral staircases is not just a tribute to fashion, although they are really elegant and allow, as the designers put it among themselves, to “turn on frenzied creativity” using almost any materials suitable for construction in the most arbitrary combinations, see fig.

The spiral staircase doesn't just save building space. Its main, invaluable advantage is that it allows you to stretch yourself to any pre-set height, limited to the same, and the minimum, area under the stairs. No less important is the fact that you can make a spiral staircase yourself, completely without the skills of a builder, and ready-made kits for their assembly (see Fig.) Are several times cheaper than any custom staircase and go on sale in a wide range with designs for any taste.

At the same time spiral staircases are not without serious disadvantages:

1. The size of the walking part of the step - the tread, see below - is optimal only in one place and exactly where they never step, exactly in the middle of it.
2. The angle of inclination of the stairs within the width of the step changes three times or more.
3. Spiral staircases for left-handers and right-handers should be performed in a mirror image: for right-handers, twisted clockwise (to the right), and vice versa for left-handers.
4. Furniture and other bulky items on the upper floors will have to be lifted as you like, but not by stairs.

Let's give additional explanations. To item 1: it is natural for a person to walk, legs slightly apart, otherwise the body strives to fall to one side. Models practice podium gait with long trainings and walk with it only at shows (and even there, it happens, they fall), but in life - like everyone else.

For step 2: on steps with a variable inclination, the right and left legs have to step over with a different range and frequency, to which the tactile sense (natural muscle memory) is not adapted. In addition, the center of gravity of the body experiences jerks not only up and down, but also sideways. This leads to increased fatigue and increases the risk of disorders of the musculoskeletal system, see below for more details.

For step 3: left-handers start climbing the stairs with their left foot, and right-handers with their right. On a staircase twisted in the wrong direction, the tactile feeling and the really required rhythm of movement are acting out of step, in antiphase. This aggravates the effect of the negative factors described in the previous paragraph.

All these influences have a cumulative effect, that is, until their certain quantitative threshold is exceeded, they do not affect, and then they affect immediately. That's why spiral staircase can only be used in residential buildings with clear zoning by floor: the first is residential, where the family spends most of the time, and the second is sleeping, where they go up / from where they go down no more than 3-4 times a day.

Video: an example of assembling and installing a spiral staircase

Where do we start?

Taking on any staircase without a project is a waste of time. But designing a staircase without continuously taking into account the properties of the material used is impossible. That's why already at the stage of the draft design of the house, it is necessary to choose the material for the stairs... Building / remodeling it in an existing house also gives some freedom of choice, so the question of the material should be considered first. In the course of the presentation, we will touch upon the essential features of technologies, and give examples of designs. And you will be able to adapt them to yourself with knowledge of the matter, having read the section on design, it is at the end of the text.

Material selection

In private houses, self-made stairs are most often made of wood, metal or reinforced concrete. All of them easily hold the required SNiP load of 150 kg, and most types of the increased load of 250 kg, as well as flooring.

Wood

according to technology, the simplest and most affordable option for a home-builder... However, the price is not so simple. Stairs made of straight grained coniferous wood dry out rather quickly, begin to creak and stagger. This disadvantage is largely compensated by the fact that a wooden staircase is weakly connected in terms of load to the structure of the building and it can be repaired or rebuilt without undertaking major repairs, but these are periodic extra costs and work, and commercial wood will not become cheaper in the foreseeable future.

For 100-300 years or more, staircases made of fine-grained dense hardwoods: oak, beech, walnut, maple, ash, serve. But the felling of these trees is strictly limited by law, the timber is sold only well seasoned and treated with pest control agents, therefore hardwood lumber is expensive, and long timber is very expensive. Ladders made of elm and eucalyptus are almost eternal, but the biocenoses corresponding to these trees are extremely vulnerable ecologically, therefore, elm and eucalyptus wood is harvested in minimal quantities and everything goes to the needs of the shoe industry (elm, for elite shoes) and mechanical engineering. Commercial elm and eucalyptus are not widely available.

Note: deciduous wood is very fond of fungus, worm and bug. Therefore, when self-manufacturing stairs from them, the first production operation is the limiting one.

Nevertheless, in everyday life, stairs made of ordinary coniferous wood are applicable in the following cases:

• Attic stairs, especially foldable or retractable, see below at the end. The microclimate of the attic will provide it with a service life no less than that of the rafters.
• The staircase to the seasonally inhabited attic or to the one and a half floor, in the cold season, separated from the living quarters by a thick door and unheated, for the same reason.
• A staircase in a one and a half to two storey cottage, inhabited only in the warm season. Here also the microclimate of the room decides the matter.
• Stairs to the sleeping loft or mezzanine. Such stairs are easy to properly soak with a water-polymer emulsion, varnish or paint over, which will protect them from drying out for a long time. And if something happens, it will not be very expensive to replace it, tk. such ladders are small-sized, see below.

About artsy stairs

Modern computer-aided design technologies allow you to immediately print templates for parts of wooden stairs of the most bizarre configuration, see fig. A project ordered on the Internet or developed independently online costs very little. It is not much more difficult to build a staircase along it than an ordinary one; the technology is the same, see below. The use of such stairs allows you to save up to 1.5-2 sq. m. of area, which can decide the fate of the project as a whole.

But the physiological and ergonomic requirements in the programs are general, averaged according to SNiP or DIN, and for the sake of economy, the limit values ​​of the parameters are used by default. That's why, when ordering a project or customizing a CAD system, define personal / family parameters first, as will be described below, and tell them to the developers or "hammer" yourself by choosing an online program that allows you to do this.

About stairs-furniture

Wooden staircase "3 in 1"

Wood is an extremely flexible construction material. It allows, showing a certain amount of fiction, to build a staircase that does not take away the useful area at all. For example, in Fig. on the right - a "3 in 1" product: a staircase to the sleeping mezzanine (bed - attic), it is a wardrobe, it is a storage rack. If you also attach a blind railing to it, then you cannot say that this is a staircase. And for construction you need the most ordinary boards, a saw, a hammer, a drill and a measuring tool. Without any high information technology.

Wooden ladder technology

All wood products are generally made using the usual "wooden" technology and the same tools. However, a wooden staircase is essentially a piece of furniture attached to the structure of the building. But it has perfectly flat walls and exactly right angles are only in theory, even without finishing. A wooden staircase, due to its low weight, lightness and purity of technology, is attached to the clean flooring in a fully finished room. Therefore, in relation to it, some features appear:

1. The pattern for the supporting beam (bowstring, see about the design) adjacent to the wall is drawn on the back of the wallpaper tape or printed on the A3-A2 printer, first of all, at a scale of 1: 1.
2. The bowstring pattern is temporarily attached in place to the walls, following all their kinks and bends.
3. The bowstring pattern is verified and corrected exactly in place to zero gaps at the top, bottom and along the wall.
4. The template of the second bearing beam is corrected with the help of simulating battens, aligned horizontally in level. For this, it is convenient to stick it on a strip of packaging cardboard.
5. The adjusted templates are used to adjust the horizontal dimensions of the steps and platform details. The height of all steps must be exactly the same, and the platform must be horizontal!
6. The exact heights of the stanchions are determined.
7. According to the size of the upper opening, the height of the railings and their posts - balusters - is specified.
8. Staircase details are cut to size and assembled into one; then - fine finishing.

Note: a free ladder, not attached to the wall, is much easier to make. According to the results of measurements on the spot, it is assembled immediately completely. The upper support pads of the beams (most often vertical - the shoulders) are cut exactly to the plane. Then the ladder is placed in place and the heels of the beams are fitted on the floor. But only attic stairs and into sleeping quarters are made this way. An interfloor wooden staircase must necessarily be fastened to the wall.

Video: installing a wooden staircase

Metal

A metal staircase in private construction is most often used in combination with other materials:

• The frame is metal welded, the left position in Fig.
• Steps - wooden (middle position) or concrete.
• Decorative finishing - any to taste, means and skill, right pos.

The total labor intensity and cost of a combined metal-wooden ladder is about 65% more than a wooden one. But her the metal frame is eternal, and the finish can be repaired or changed without undertaking major repairs indoors and without interrupting the use of the stairs. A metal staircase can also be mounted on an already built building, but after its construction, it will require medium renovation of the finishing. The general installation technology is as follows:

1. Prepare 2 beams for a platform from a channel of 60-100 mm. The entry of the beams into the load-bearing concrete wall, in addition to finishing, is not less than 80 mm; in brick and wood at least 120 mm. It is undesirable to mount a metal staircase into walls made of PHB or aerated concrete; if it is nevertheless necessary, then the beams should lie in the wall for its entire thickness, but not less than 150 mm without finishing. These considerations must be taken into account when determining the length of the beams.
2. Nests for beams are punched in the walls; in the one that is thicker - with a depth of 2.3 beam entry. If the walls are made of PHB or aerated concrete, through holes are punched instead of nests.
3. First the distant and then the near beam are brought into the nests.
4. The beams are brought out horizontally along the level along and across, and the entire site into a rectangle with a cord along the diagonals. To remove, the beams in the nests are wedged with sheet metal scraps from the bottom and from both sides. The wedge beam should sit tightly in the nest so that it cannot be moved horizontally by hand.
5. The beams in the stone wall are cemented by spraying the nests with water from a spray bottle. In a wooden one, it is covered with a compound of sawdust, densely (to the consistency of dry cottage cheese) mixed with liquid nails.
6. Remove the flooring and screed to overlap where the heels of the beams fall.
7. After 2 weeks, once again check the site for horizontal length and width and rectangularity.
8. They remove the dimensions of the inclined beams, prepare them.
9. The beams are welded to the site, and their heels are attached to the ceiling with M12x90 anchor bolts.
10. The screed is restored, and while it dries, the step frames are boiled from the corner.
11. The vertical shelves of the frames of the steps for concreting are oriented upwards; under the wooden steps - down.
12. Sheathed or concreted steps.
13. Make the final finishing of the stairs.

All-metal stationary stairs are not very aesthetic and therefore are rarely used in everyday life. For example, in Fig. on the right is a spiral welded metal staircase. On both floors, upper and lower, steel thrust bearings with a diameter of at least 180 mm are required under its rack. They are attached to the floor slabs with 4 anchor bolts M8x120 each.

This staircase can be slightly refined by gluing it to the steps from below to hide struts, wood or EPS and rounding the overlays according to the pattern. After installing the railing (preferably made of stainless steel) and painting the stairs, corrugated rubber, linoleum or carpet are glued on the treads of the steps.

Video: combined metal-wood ladder

About stairs on the bolts

Bolzen in German is a bolt. Foresters call the bolts of the stairs, which carry the operational load, as opposed to the fastening ones. A ladder on bolts means a ladder without support beams, only on bolts, see fig. on right.

Boltsev ladders are among the combined metal-wood. Their important parts are vertical bolts in spacer clips connecting the hanging edges of the steps. They distribute the load on the steps, so the ladder on the bolts is no less reliable than the beam one.

There are no less sets of parts for boltsev ladders on sale than for spiral ones, and they are even cheaper. When self-designing stairs on the bolts, you need to consider the following:

• Installation of the ladder on the bobbins is possible only on load-bearing concrete or brick walls.
• Steps - a board made of durable thin-layered deciduous wood with a thickness of 40 mm. Replacing wood with MDF or HDF (modified high density wood, HDF) is not permitted.
• Wall bolts - М8х (120 + finishing thickness), in metal collet anchors, 2 per step. You cannot use self-tapping screws in dowels!
• Vertical bolts - М12х (riser height, see below + 2 step thickness + 35 mm).
• Balusters made of pipes with an internal thread for bolts can play the role of nuts, but the railings themselves do not bear the load, it all falls on the bolts.

Video: assembling the ladder on the bolts

Concrete

Reinforced concrete stairs are most used in mass standard construction. Here, there is practically no alternative to them: all the others need to be assembled on site, and concrete ones are brought ready-made from reinforced concrete structures and mounted on a par with other parts of the prefabricated structure.

In private houses, concrete stairs of two types are built: combined with metal (not to be confused with reinforced concrete!) And monolithic. In the first, slabs of steps and platforms are made by pouring concrete into the same frame as for a metal-wooden staircase, reinforced with reinforcement. Horizontal surfaces that are less prone to wear are finished in any other way.

The combined concrete staircase is quite affordable for self-production. Its labor intensity is about twice as high as that of a metal-wooden one, but it pays off in that you can forget about the creak and regular repair of the running part of the stairs once and for all.

For steps and platforms, you need a special one with increased resistance to bending. Mix the solution only in, do not have time to knead with a hand mixer until completely homogeneous. Its composition (parts - volumetric) and preparation method:

1. Cement PC-400 - 1 part.
2. Fine dry river sand - 2 parts.
3. Marble chips - 2 parts.
4. Water - 0.7 parts.
5. Plasticizer C3 - 0.01 part.

For kneading, an empty mixer is turned on, marble chips, dry sand and cement are loaded successively. It is kneaded dry for 1 minute, then water is introduced in a thin stream. They wait another 1 minute, add a plasticizer and knead for another minute. The mortar is suitable for pouring within 20 minutes after the end of the batch, therefore, it is not necessary to overdo it with the load. Better to let the mixer work not under full load, it will mix more uniformly.

Making a staircase from concrete poured into metal has the following features:

Explanations. The solution of the described composition is characterized by increased plasticity, holds any finish well, and after polishing it looks good itself. However, he is inclined to isolate the so-called. cement milk, which sharply deteriorates the quality of the finished casting, therefore, the flow of milk must be prevented by all possible means.

A plate under vertical load generally works in bending. At the same time, its upper layer is compressed, and the lower one is stretched. Compression holds perfectly, but stretching is disgusting. This circumstance explains the recommended arrangement of the valves.

Video: frame concrete staircase

As for monolithic reinforced concrete stairs, they are suitable for individual construction only in the form of finished standard or custom-made products. It is not recommended to build a monolith staircase yourself for the following reasons:

1. To prevent the outflow of laitance and support very heavy concrete mass, a solid special structure is needed from expensive high-quality sawn timber: seasoned wood, waterproof plywood from 25 mm, MDF, see fig. on right.
2. To accommodate the shrinkage of the staircase and the building, the concrete must be vibrated. In industrial conditions, the casting is shaken on special stands, but manual artisanal methods of compaction cannot be used. One has only to touch the reinforcement with the tip of the vibrator once, and caverns filled with cement milk are formed in the thickness of the concrete. Cracks will subsequently creep from them, and it is hardly possible to repair a monolithic staircase, connected in one with the load-bearing structure of the building.

Video: making a monolithic concrete staircase

We construct a staircase

Above, specifically ladder terms have been used more than once. The figure explains them, there is little to add:

• A bowstring is a supporting beam of a staircase that perceives both vertical and horizontal loads. For this, the steps of the ladder are cut into the bowstring.
• Kosour - a beam that holds only a vertical load; the steps on the kosour fit.
• Tread - the length (since the steps are stretched in width) of the walking part of the step on which the foot is placed. Equal to the foot length of the walker in the shoe.
• The front steps are a piece of a spiral staircase built in between straight flights. "Runaways" are used if it is impossible to gain a place for a staircase in any way, because they have all the disadvantages of spiral staircases. They were called run-in because everyone who can jump over them.
• In a monolithic staircase, the size of the riser and the height of the step are the same.
• The riser can be empty, then it is called a gap, and the entire staircase is called a staircase with gaps.
• An intercept is made in order to get the necessary tread on a steep staircase, see below.

Skylight stairs are widely used in private homes. Their risk of injury is higher than that of solid ones, it is easier to knock off the socks of shoes on them. But if the same people use the stairs all the time, these disadvantages are reduced to naught. But a staircase with gaps is much cheaper, easier to manufacture and less obscuring the light. If the staircase starts in the living room, then the option with gaps is the most preferable.

More about stairs

Further, in the process of calculating the stairs, we will see how harmful these values ​​are - the tread and the height of the step, and how they do not tolerate each other. Their values ​​recommended by SNiP for public and service staircases are shown in Fig. on right. To get acceptable dimensions, most often you have to make steps with an overhang. But in private houses, where you can't walk around with a ladder, its allowable size turns out to be small, and a large overhang makes the ladder traumatic and fatal for shoes.

The designers of the very first Khrushchev buildings found a way out: the riser must be made inclined outward. Best concave, as shown in fig. on the left, but you can also flat. If the entire staircase is finished with linoleum or carpet, then without harm to her, and for the walker, and for his shoes, you can bring the spacing to 60 mm.

Man and ladder

Man as a biological object was not formed in the highlands, and all his kinematics and physiology of movement are designed to move on flat surfaces, horizontal or inclined. Walking up the stairs forces the human body to do something that is not typical for it, so the stairs must be designed so that inconvenient factors affect less.

Human

Without going into the details of physiology, let's take into account right away that human muscles can work in two energy cycles: glycogen and oxygen. Glycogenous is our usual one. On glycogen, everyone develops an average power for a long time in accordance with their physique and physical fitness.

The oxygen cycle is turned on in an unprepared person in critical circumstances. Muscles work on oxygen using their own energy reserves. The oxygen cycle allows you to develop a very high power, but for a short time - the muscle's own energy store burns out in 2-3 s; it takes about the same amount of time to replenish it. The known cases of the manifestation of incredible strength by ordinary people are explained precisely by working on oxygen.

Note: the most ordinary person in the most ordinary circumstances, running up a flight of 17-18 steps in one breath, jumping over the steps, develops a power of 600-1500 W by 1.5-2 s, or 0.8-2 hp.

Each inclusion of "oxygen" causes an involuntary contraction of the muscles by about 0.1-0.2 s, which consumes the energy of the muscle depot. Those. 20-30 oxygen inclusions completely exhaust muscular superpowers, even if no useful work has been done. This process is similar to the fuel consumption for starting up and warming up the internal combustion engine.

Man on the stairs

For a clear understanding of what follows, it is useful to imagine that the entire mass of a human body is concentrated in its center of gravity (CG). In humans, the CG is located in the lumbar region slightly inward from the spinal column. When moving on a flat surface, up or down, the CG moves approximately evenly and rectilinearly; the whole evolution of man has adapted his kinematics to this very thing.

On the stairs, the CG experiences jerks up and down, and on the spiral staircase also sideways. In this case, each time you have to accelerate the body and immediately slow down. Human inertia is not small: try to drop a weight of 75-80 kg from a step height of 14-18 cm, make sure. The autonomic nervous system perceives rhythmic tremors as force majeure, and on the stairs turns on oxygen with each step.

Ladder and man

From the previous one, important conclusions already follow: it is impossible to increase the number of steps of one march over 20 even for the most gentle staircase, a walker on such will fizzle out for no apparent reason. Second, it is highly desirable to arrange platforms at least 1.2-1.5 m wide between marches. Just 2-3 steps on glycogen, and you can turn on oxygen again.

Further, a simplified calculation of the zero derivative gives a minimum of the total energy consumption on the stairs with a tread to step height ratio of 2: 1, which corresponds to a stair tilt angle of 30 degrees. In reality, the very minimum falls on a larger angle, approximately 32-34 degrees. The fact is that overcoming / damping of inertia does not occur instantly, but during the reaction time of the muscles, 0.1-0.2 s.

In the direction of a smaller slope, energy consumption increases rapidly, see Fig. Here again there is a complete analogy with an auto-engine: by accelerating without measure on the first or second, first you will burn the entire tank and engine, than you will get somewhere. Specifically: the energy depot's consumption for turning on / off oxygen turns out to be much more than for the actual movement. We draw the third conclusion: too shallow stairs are useless; an incline of less than 28 degrees is inconvenient and tiring, and less than 25 is only a ramp.

Large slopes are more economical. This is due to the fact that the CG moves relatively uniformly for a large proportion of the step span. The average person does not need to restore oxygen by climbing 4.5 m up the stairs to 75 degrees, this angle is considered the limit for general stairs.

"Ascending" above is not said for nothing. When going down the stairs, another factor comes into play, namely the balance of the body. So that the CG does not go beyond the limits of the reference area and there is no "boom", you have to step over and lean forward. But, going down the steep stairs, you can't take your foot far, there is air. Therefore, you have to go down very steep stairs with your back forward, and the maximum inclination of public staircases is considered to be 45 degrees.

Builders do not use energy curves for calculations, but summary pie charts, see Fig. There, nothing is clear from physiology, but the permissible angles of inclination are clearly shown. They are somewhat different from the "energy" ones, because they are statistically averaged.

Ladder for yourself

We need, when designing a staircase, gain as much space as possible. The natural way to do this is to take a larger slope.... But you cannot overdo it, once the cumulative harmfulness, which was mentioned at the beginning, will appear. How, then, without complex research, to find your own energy capabilities, and along them - the angle of inclination of the stairs?

The first thing we do is determine the average height Τ of adult physically complete family members. The "small" kinematics with physiology are significantly different, they once again stretch out only for the benefit. And the elderly and the infirm are not driven to the second floor by normal people.

But why - the average height without distinction of sex? Because in women, firstly, the CG is located lower in relation to height. Which of the men did not furtively lick their lips at appetizing forms? Secondly, the width of a woman's stride (the most important parameter, as we will see later) is also larger in relation to height.

Are you surprised? This is simply not visible, tk. the female gait is smooth, and the male is sweeping. But take a closer look on the street: a lady with a height of 165-170 goes hand in hand with a gentleman of 175-180, not at all adapting to him.

All this theory is needed in order to determine:

1. The maximum slope of the stairs in degrees as α = T / 4 - 2;
2. Normal step width as d = 0.36 T.

The formulas are valid for the height limits of 160-180 cm. For the short ones, α = 38 degrees, and for the big ones - 45. We don't do the smallest slope, firstly, because it is very energetically disadvantageous. And secondly, a gentle staircase will take away too much area, which is worth its money.

Types and dimensions of stairs

Before we start counting, let's see what we need to select and design. The main types of stairs for private houses are shown in Fig. In the top row, the first 2 from the left are cantilever, or hanging. Monolithic is designed at the same time as the house and ready-made purchase is taken. Nearby there is a staircase on the bolts, which has already been mentioned. The following 2 also belong to the category of hanging ones, on the kosoura pushed under the steps. Their advantages are more aesthetic, they visually do not reduce the volume of the room so much.

Single-flight stairs (first at the bottom left) are rare in private houses; with the normal dimensions of the steps, they most often simply do not fit there. More rotary staircases are being built, the next pos. The recommended rotation angle is 90 degrees if the stairs go up from the room, and 180 degrees if from the hallway. These angles facilitate design.

Ladders with winding steps on curved beams are discussed above, in the subsection on artsy wooden stairs. Spiral staircases are built around a lantern, half-window or bay window from the inside.

Ladder calculation

The calculation of the stairs is indestructible on 3 "whales" - immutable principles:

• All steps are exactly the same height to the nearest 0.5 cm. "Jumping" steps knock the tactile feeling out of rhythm, due to which trauma is inevitable over time;
• The staircase should be between rooms with the same temperature regime. Uneven heating of the staircase during the heating season can lead not only to its damage, but also to a violation of the supporting structure of the building;
• The calculation necessarily ends with an accurate drawing to scale and with detailing, for an example for a wooden spiral staircase, see Fig. A sketch "offhand" does not guarantee against failure even for an experienced specialist.

Note: It is permissible to build a staircase between heated and unheated rooms if the passage to it from the warm side is tightly closed with self-closing doors.

Dimensions and proportions

The dimensions of the stairs required for the calculation according to the English system are shown in Fig. on right:

1. L is the length of the ladder.
2. H is its height (rise).
3. G is the height of the passage.
4. B - overall width.
5. W is the width of the passage.
6. N is the number of steps.
7. A - the length of the opening in the ceiling of the upper floor.
8. P is the height of the railing.
9. C - the gap between the balusters.

The product LxB gives the floor area occupied by the stairs; AхB - on the top. Their sum is the total area under the stairs. These values ​​are necessary for budgeting and minimizing costs. G according to the DIN standard for private houses should be taken from 185 cm, according to SNiP - from 190 cm.Really, it is better to adhere to the value of 195-200 cm.Then a tall guest will not instinctively tilt his head in the aisle and stumble.

Here, the figure shows the way in which the designers of private houses, not rigidly tied to standard elements, gain up to 5 cm G and up to 30 cm L: the lower edge of the upper opening is chamfered. The thing is that the upper opening needs to be fenced and a good half meter to the sides of it practically does not experience operational stress.

W should be taken from 1200 mm for general interfloor stairs and from 900 mm for stairs to the sleeping floor. For office or individual (in the attic, mezzanine) - from 700 mm. N for calculations is taken as N-1, since the floor of the upper floor is the last rung of the staircase. The N allowed in one march was mentioned above.

P is taken in 800-900 mm, depending on the height. Its value is not critical, do as it is more convenient. In families with children, you need to take no more than 100 mm; for an adult family - up to 170 mm. This is according to the norms, it is really better to be wider, and to put a continuous fence along the bottom, it is safer.

Note: not so long ago, a curiosity flashed in the news several times. A couple decided to have sex right on the stairs, causing the girl's head to push through the balusters and get stuck. To get out, I had to call the Ministry of Emergency Situations and an ambulance. Looks like crazy there is just the size of the confusion ...

Calculation of steps

The main difficulty in calculating a staircase is to determine the size of its steps. Energy-optimal angle of inclination of the stairs α = 32 degrees; then the ratio of the step height l to its tread will be equal to tanα = tan 32 = 0.625. But optimal in terms of the minimum occupied area (and construction costs depend on it in a square), determined by personal parameters, as described above, α will turn out to be about 40 degrees, and tg 40 = 0.84. These two stubborn people need to be brought together in one team so that it was convenient for us.

The calculation method is as follows:

• Based on tgα = 0.84 and H = (ceiling height + ceiling thickness + screed height of the upper floor + flooring thickness in the same place), we calculate the length of the stairs L = H / (tgα) = H / 0.84.
• On the draft design of the house, we are looking for a place where this length will fit with a margin, subject to the overall width B. Here we need a creative streak and some experience: we try straight and swivel ladders, we apply design tricks, some of which see below.
• According to the chosen place, we determine the constructive length of the ladder Lk.
• Using it and H, we find the actual angle of inclination as Α = arctan (H / Lk).
• To begin with, we take N-1 = 15, i.e. N = 16 and find the height of the step h = H / (N-1). h should be between 140-180 mm for an average family height of 160-180 cm; we find the optimum by proportion. If h deviates far from it, correct N.
• We calculate the length of the tread as l = h / (tgΑ). It will most likely be less than 280 mm, then we define the overhang as b = 280 - l, it should be no more than 60 mm for steps with an inclined riser and no more than 40 mm for all others. For stairs with a clearance, we always take b = 0, otherwise injury is inevitable.
• If the steps do not converge, we repeat the calculation cycle starting from item 2.
• When everything seems to have come together, we check the result for common stairs using the formula from SNiP 2b + l = d, where d is the width of the “family” step determined above.
• For individual and service staircases, we use the formula b + l = 0.75d for verification.
• If our specific results agree with the statistical SniP formulas with an accuracy of 10%, phew! They fooled off the stairs.
• If not, go back to step 2.

There is a nuance in calculating spiral staircases: the angle of divergence of their steps β should not exceed 60 degrees, and it is best to be less than 20 degrees. Therefore, radius stairs are considered according to the residual principle: the remainder of the total lifting height H, falling on the radius part, is set in proportion to its share in the total length of the stairs, the step height of the straight parts is calculated and their number on the radius is determined from it. Then the opening of the steps is checked by dividing the angle of the staircase turn by the number of steps in the arc. In ordinary houses, problems almost never arise.

Subtleties of design

Here are 2 fairly well-known ways to save money on stairs without compromising its ergonomics and functionality:

1. "Russian layout": the staircase is made either in a wide corridor ("Novorusskaya") with a turn of 180 degrees, or on the veranda / in the hallway with a turn of 90 degrees. The first march is long and high. An additional combined bathroom, guest toilet, boiler room, etc. are crammed under the staircase, and under the march they arrange a descent into the basement.
2. "Spanish layout": the villa is being designed as a one and a half storey one. The sleeping mezzanine is placed above the built-in garage with a take-out above the entrance to it and, possibly, to the sides, up to 1 m. Then 2-3 small bedrooms can be placed in the mezzanine. And due to the basement of the building, the ceiling and the floor of the first floor, the mezzanine is shifted down by 1 m or more. The height of the stairs is also reduced by the same amount. In this case, it is most often possible to make it generally one-march.

Video: making stairs - from calculation to construction

About attic stairs

A ladder to the attic is needed in any home. Its well-known design, which does not take away the usable area, is shown in Fig. There is only one drawback: it is in plain sight. You can get rid of it by hanging the ladder on a rail from a piece of pipe and, in a folded position, pushing it behind the furniture. Then it makes sense to attach a decorative strip to the outer string.

Now popular and widely offered by sellers of various kinds of compact attic stairs. The most common types are shown on the next page. rice:

About basement stairs

In the instruction manuals, it is often advised to build the staircase to the basement on a separate foundation. Like, it will be stronger this way. This is a typical amateurish mistake, the house as a whole shrinks faster and the stairs will simply twist or come off over time.

On the contrary, it is better to attach the basement ladder at the top with bowstrings reduced to a wedge to the horizontal pivot hinge, and round the heels. Then, during shrinkage, the angle of its inclination will only decrease. If the blockage of the steps becomes noticeable, it is enough to file or trim the heels.

Summing up

In general, for a public interfloor staircase the best should be recognized as metal-wood or metal-concrete... Their increased labor intensity and cost compared to wood are more than compensated for by their strength and durability.

For budget housing, in which it is in no way possible to carve out a place for a staircase, a wooden staircase modeled on a computer with complex bowstrings is optimal. To do this yourself, you will have to strain your skill and ingenuity, but the living space will be taken away and a minimum of material will go away. The same staircase is well suited for a summer residence, and if the family is physically developed and not lazy, then a hybrid of "Finnish" with "Polish".

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