How to block the cellar on the street. How to make a cellar in the country: everything about the construction of a semi-submerged structure

The basement under the house is not the best place for long-term storage of blanks. The temperature is high there, and closer to spring, the vegetables in it will flab. Therefore, beginning homeowners sooner or later have a reasonable question: “How to make a detached cellar with your own hands?”

Types of cellars

In fact, the cellar is a rather deep pit in the ground with a reinforced ceiling and walls.

The degree of penetration of such a repository may be different:

deep-seated: completely under the ground to the entire height of the cellar; Maintain a comfortable temperature for vegetables and preservation at any time in such rooms is not difficult - a layer of soil reliably protects them from heat and cold;
high (ground) cellars: they can be erected on any kind of plots, but most often such constructions are used in close proximity of groundwater, when it is not possible to dig deep into the cellar; to protect such structures from heat and cold, they are heat-insulated by backfilling with soil (embankment);
semi-buried: something between high and deep storage; its lower part is buried in the soil, and the upper part is located above the ground.

When choosing the type of cellar, it is necessary to focus on the depth of groundwater. They should not rise higher than 50-60 cm from the bottom of the cellar.

Independently, without the help of experts, to determine the level of groundwater is not easy. You can navigate to the neighboring areas. Go around the neighbors and ask them what types of cellars are used in this area. More accurate measurements can be made by drilling test wells. Before measuring the water level, the finished well should stand for 1-2 days.

By location, all underground storage facilities can be divided into 2 types:

freestanding
wall: in order to save free space, it is allowed to attach the cellar to the walls of sheds, garages and other outbuildings; cellars can also be located inside such premises; However, in order to avoid excessive heating of the air, it is not recommended to attach the cellar to heated premises.

Choice of location

The safety of products and the durability of the structure itself largely depend on the place chosen for construction.

The cellar should not be built:

in an open area, illuminated by the sun - it is better to choose a place in the shade
near large trees, which by their roots can damage the structure

For the structure chosen the most elevated place. In this case, the probability of flooding by groundwater decreases when they are raised in spring. Plus, such a site will not accumulate waste rain or melt water.

Vegetable storehouse located on an elevated site

To avoid collapse of buildings, the cellar pit should be located no closer than 0.5 m from the building foundation. When building a vegetable store under an unheated room, you will not only save space on the site, but also ensure ease of use - you do not have to clear the snow every time you go for food supplies. The walls and the roof of the building will provide additional protection from cold winds and scorching heat.

During the construction of the ground cellar, the exit is located on the shadow side. If this is not possible, more thorough insulation of the vestibule and the front door will be required.

Construction of a deep cellar

The construction of any kind of underground storage should not be carried out in the spring, when the groundwater rises too close to the surface, but towards the end of summer, in August. All work must be carried out in dry weather. During the rain, the pit is necessarily closed with a film.

After selecting the location of the repository, they proceed to digging the pit. The depth of the full cellar should be 2-2.5 m.
When preparing the pit, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the floor, as well as the height of the bedding (cushion) of rubble, which serves as protection from moisture. The thickness of this layer is 25-30 cm.
The optimal size of the vegetable store is 8-12 square meters. m. For a small family enough 4-5 square. m. To the estimated length and width add 0.5-1 m for equipment walls, waterproofing and arrangement of clay castle.
The excavation of the pit is done manually - an excavator can damage the edges of the pit, and the storage insulation will be damaged. The earth is removed in layers, carefully aligning the edges.
When loose soil pit is better to do with a slope (between floor and top the difference in each direction should be 30-50 cm). In this case, the land will be less showered.
In the corners it is better to immediately hammer the supports from the channel. Beams of overlap will be laid on it in the future.
Part of the land will be needed for dumping the top of the cellar, so do not carry the ground too far.
After reaching the required depth, the foundation pit should stand for some time - it is necessary to make sure that it will not be filled with groundwater. If the water has slightly leaked into the pit, the places of its penetration are sealed with clay. With a strong flooding, further construction, unfortunately, will be impossible.

He hopes that it will be possible to pump the water out of the cellar in the spring every year, but it is not worth it. You will only flush the ducts, constantly expanding them, and every year the water will arrive more and more. If the dug pit began to flood, it is better to throw it with earth and build a ground cellar.

Cooking clay castle

The best floors in the cellar are adobe. Our ancestors knew about the peculiarities of clay to retain moisture and not to let it into the room. To this day, a clay castle is one of the best options for protecting the foundation, even when building residential buildings. By the way, leaks in the basements of buildings erected as early as the 18th and 19th centuries arise only after the laying of new modern communications and the destruction of the adobe surfaces.

The clay lock is a layer of clay with a thickness of 20-25 cm, laid along the contour of the building with the capture of the perimeter of the walls. The ideal option would be to combine modern and traditional methods of protection. First, rolled bituminous material (for example, roofing felt), glued with heated bitumen, is laid on the floors, they are poured with cement, and a clay lock is built on top.

Sufficient clay must first be soaked with water for several days. With an excess of sand, 10–20% lime is added to it. To ram the clay is better in the formwork, falling asleep in small layers. To seal it trample down her feet, from time to time turning the shovel.

If a natural layer of clay is found at the bottom of a pit prepared for the cellar, it is necessary to dig it with a shovel, capturing the area slightly wider than the intended walls. Then the floors are well rubbed with their feet, re-dig with a shovel and trample down.

The walls are also insulated with a clay castle. To do this, the space between the brick or concrete wall is filled with carefully stamped clay. The thickness of such a lock - from 25 cm. It is more convenient to fill the space with clay as the walls are erected. Tamping it with a piece of a log or a special tamper in the form of a flat heavy base and a handle attached to it.

Ordinary sand bedding (cushion), which absorbs water well, is undesirable with mud floors. It is better to replace it with a layer of rubble, spilled with bitumen, which is covered with compacted clay on top.

Ventilation

Regardless of the type of cellar, ventilation is necessarily provided. After all, in addition to moisture coming through the capillaries from the soil, water in the process of breathing will be released by the vegetables and fruits stored in the room.

There are two ventilation ducts in the cellar. The first exhaust is located above the ceiling with the output out to a height of 10-15 cm (see photo). The end of the pipe, located outdoors, should rise above the ground at 0.5 m.

When located above the cellar of an outbuilding (garage, shed, etc.), the exhaust channel is displayed on the roof of the building above the ridge. The pipe should rise 0.5 m above it.

The second inlet channel, which serves for the inflow of fresh air, is equipped at a distance of 20-25 cm from the floor. Supply and exhaust pipes are mounted only on opposite walls. Their minimum length is 2.5-3 m. For the circulation of air masses to be uniform, the diameter of the channels must be the same.

They lay in the process of building walls. For this purpose, special openings are provided in the masonry or concrete, into which pipes are inserted. From above channels are equipped with the peaks protecting from rainfall and penetration of rodents.

Too large, like small diameter is undesirable. In the first case, the room will be too cold, in the second - the small size of the channel will not provide sufficient air exchange. Ideally, the pipes should not have any bends. Any extensions and restrictions are not allowed.

The size of pipes is calculated depending on the dimensions of the room. For each 1 m2 cellar of a standard 2-meter depth, 26 cm2 of channel section should be provided. If the depth of the storage is large, the diameter of the pipes is increased proportionally.

So that the water vapor that goes outside does not freeze through, the channels are warmed in places of exit with soil. You can put on the outside of the casing, laid insulating material.

Forced ventilation is equipped in large vegetable stores. In the simplest systems for this, an electric fan of small power is installed in the hood. In more complex cases, it is installed in both the supply and exhaust ducts.

During the winter period, the air inlets must be carefully caulked with a cloth.

Wall decoration

The most popular materials for their finishing are concrete, brick or concrete blocks. For concrete pouring, formwork is being prepared into which the reinforcement cage is embedded. All concrete work must be carried out in one day. Otherwise, cold bridges are formed at the junction, through which heat will escape. Such joints are dangerous, and due to the excess voltage of the surface - the wall will be fragile.

During the construction of brick walls masonry are in one brick. As the solution is used clay-sand or cement mixture. Outside walls are waterproofed with a double layer of bitumen and roofing material. The remaining space between the ground and the wall is covered with earth and compacted.

It is possible to decorate the walls with asbestos cement slabs. It is undesirable to use wood. Its service life in a wet room will be small. If this is necessary, you can use the method that was used by our ancestors. In the corners of the walls, stakes are hammered into which boards or slabs, cut to length and dried for 1-2 years, are laid.

Cellar overlap

For the manufacture of floors can be used concrete, wood or a combination of them. Fix the wooden ceiling and lay insulation in the gap between the wooden beams is much more convenient and easier.

In this case:

Roofing material is laid over the walls.
Then, at a distance of 0.5 m from each other, logs or beams from a 150x100 mm bar, pre-treated with an antiseptic, are placed.
Next, preparing the flooring of the boards (slab), which leave room for the hatch (manhole) size 80x80 cm. After laying it is covered with a layer of clay, and then covered with soil.
The wooden flooring is covered with a waterproofing layer. As it can be used thick polyethylene. The film is spread so that it finds on the ground.
Now we put the reinforcement in the form of a lattice, prepare the formwork and fill it with concrete 4-5 cm thick.
After the concrete has completely dried (it is necessary to wait at least a week), a double insulated, tight-fitting lid is attached to the hatch. A brick is laid on its perimeter or concrete is poured.
When used as a slab of concrete slabs, they are placed on metal beams. The seams between the plates are sealed with cement mortar; then this overlap is filled with bitumen. Roofing material is spread over it, and then a layer of insulation.
It is undesirable to use mineral wool as a heat insulation material in a wet room over time, it will clump together and completely lose its insulating properties. The best option - foam. The joints between its sheets are glued with a sealant or adhesive tape.
If the underground storage is built separately, for protection from the sun in the summer and snow in the winter, it is better to provide a small building with a sloping roof (cellar) over the cellar. Her door equip the north side. Such a room can be used as a place for storing gardening equipment.

For reliable thermal protection, the walls of the graveyard are buried in the ground by 60-70 cm, and outside are made of a pavement of clay and rubble.

Ceiling insulation

To ensure optimum temperature in the room ceiling must be insulated. For this purpose, the lattice structure (lathing) is attached to the beams from a timber between which foam plastic or any other heat-insulating material that does not absorb moisture is laid. To secure it, sheathe boards or fiberboard, which are screwed to the bars.

Before installing the insulation on the ceiling, polyethylene film is attached with overlap. This can be done with a simple double-sided tape. All joints in the insulation are carefully sealed. Next, it is closed again with a film. Plaster or boards can be used as a topcoat.

Construction of the upper cellar

The cost of this design compared to the underground version is quite low. Yes, and it is more convenient to use such a storage - it is equipped with a regular door, and you do not have to climb stairs down. However, to maintain the optimum temperature without deepening in the ground is not easy. For this, a special structure is provided.

Types of riding cellars

By type of high cellars are divided into:

storage sheds with an embankment: simple structures made of planks or logs, resembling a hut; to maintain a comfortable temperature, such structures from above are covered with a sufficiently large layer of earth
a riding cellar without an embankment: its construction is similar to that of a conventional farm building; to maintain a comfortable temperature, the walls of such a building are made double with a thermal insulation layer laying between them

Construction of a cellar with an embankment

Unlike the deep, most of the upper cellar rises above the surface. To maintain the required temperature in the room, it will require additional thermal insulation.

Such a structure is erected in the form of a tent, the roof of which rests on solid log supports.

At the first stage, the foundation pit is being prepared with a depth of 0.5-0.6 m. The excavated land is left nearby - it is useful for embankment. The floors are filled with rubble and densely tamped. A clay castle is built on top (more on this in more detail).
When choosing a land from a pit, it is better to immediately cut a few steps out of the ground. In the future, it is trimmed with reinforced concrete, brick or wide durable board. It is advisable to build steel corners into the edges of the concrete steps so that the concrete does not spill out.
Support for the overlap set in advance. To protect the wood from moisture, part of the logs that will go deep into the ground are covered with bitumen or fired.
After digging in log supports into the ground to a depth of 50-60 cm, they are tied at the top with long poles.
At the stage of wall construction, care must also be taken of ventilation. The principle of its device is similar to the ventilation, equipped in deep-buried cellars. The exhaust duct is installed near the ceiling, and the intake duct is on the opposite wall just above the floor.
The wall from the end is sheathed in two rows of planks, missed twice with bitumen and sandwiched with a layer of roofing material.
The ridge of the roof is made of edged boards of sufficient thickness covered with roofing material. All the cracks are caulked with moss.
Ceiling overlap should be as strong as possible so that it can withstand the earth mound. Do not forget that in addition to the pressure of the soil layer, the roof will also have a significant snow load in the winter period.
The entrance is necessarily equipped with a small vestibule, which serves as additional protection against heat loss. The door leading to the vegetable store is carefully insulated.
To divert water around such a storage, a ditch with a depth of 0.5 m is conducted. A blind area 1 m wide with a slope from the cellar is also provided around the perimeter of the cellar.

If the water passes close to the surface of the earth, the above-ground cellar can be erected on a site with dressing.

Embankment

Earthen filling (embankment) should reliably keep the cold in summer and warm in winter. Its optimum thickness is 35-45 cm.
Before embankment, the ceiling is covered with a 5 cm layer of clay-straw mixture. Above it is placed a thick film of polyethylene or roofing material.
The earth, especially in the upper part of the ceiling, may settle with time. In order not to make an additional embankment, a special fence should be provided to protect the ground from sliding down the slopes.
To strengthen the embankment, it is necessary to immediately cover it with sod or sow with low grass, for example, with lawn grass. The intertwined roots of the plants will not allow the earth to crawl down.

Like any other building, the riding cellar can be made externally attractive by decorating it to your liking. The design of the site will benefit from this.

The main stages of the construction of the cellar without embankment of the walls

Riding cellars with full embankment occupy too much space on the site. In recent years, site owners have found another solution. Instead of embankment, they began to build a cellar with double walls.

Outwardly, they look like ordinary buildings. However, due to the massive walls laid with insulation, a temperature comfortable for vegetables is maintained in such a warehouse. In the literature, it is recommended to warm the space between the walls with foam plastic, sawdust or expanded clay.

Only one or two slope roofs of such a vegetable storehouse are warmed with earth by means of an embankment.. The thickness of the soil covered is up to half a meter. As in the previous case, a vestibule is provided in such a warehouse. The door leading to the repository is carefully insulated.

When building such a vegetable store:

The earth is taken out to a depth of 0.5 m.
The floors are covered with rubble, they are shed with bitumen, and then a clay castle is prepared.
Bricks are embedded in wet clay in such a way that a minimum gap is formed between them.
Bricks and spread the bottom of the walls. The masonry should rise above the surface to the height of the spade bayonet. Sand, clay and lime are used as mortar. Its proportions are 3: 1: 0.3. Double walls can be completely laid out of brick or stone.
The ceiling and walls are sheathed in 2 rows of a thick-walled 40-mm or 50-millimeter board, and the earth is poured into the gap between them and tightly rammed.
Walls are coated with bitumen twice. Over them fix a layer of roofing material.
The roof can be single or gable. Before filling it is covered with roofing felt.
Ventilation is required in the cellar.
A drainage ditch is laid around the cellar.

This structure goes into the ground to a depth of about a meter with a wall height of about 2 m. The entrance is through the vestibule, and the door is flush with the ground. The second, warmed door provides access directly to the cellar, where they go down the stairs. Such structures are erected at sites with a groundwater level of no more than 1.5-2 m.

The order of performance of work is in many respects similar to the stages of the construction of a ground cellar:

To create a layer of thermal insulation, the roof of the building and the upper part of the walls, towering above the surface, also fall off the ground.
The overlap is made of slab leveled on the sides, which is covered with clay. On top of it, ruberoid glued by hot bitumen is laid.

The walls are built of brick, concrete. It is undesirable to use slag concrete in wet areas - it will quickly become useless.

Cellar of reinforced concrete rings

The maximum diameter of reinforced concrete rings is 2-2.5 m, so with their help you can build only a small vegetable store. But for a small family of such premises will be quite enough.

For the construction of the cellar will be enough 2-3 rings, which are exposed in the pit one next to the other. The height of the rings can vary - it can be equal to 0.4 and 0.6 m, and the higher ones are made with a height of 0.8 and 1 m. 2-3 rings of the desired height are selected from them so that after the construction of the storehouse an adult person I was able to stand up to my full height, but there was a little space left above his head.
Buy better rings with locks. Such a connection will be more durable, plus it will be easier to seal. A lid of reinforced concrete with a manhole is also better to buy ready-made.
Before immersing the rings in the pit for waterproofing, they are treated twice with bitumen from the outside.
To install them better to use a loader or winch.
After lowering the rings in the pit, all the joints are coated with concrete, and then waterproofed with bitumen mastic.
Another option - the gradual excavation under the rings. After the removal of the ground, they will gradually fall down under the weight of their own weight.
If the groundwater is close, it is better to purchase one bottom ring with a bottom or to concrete the floor, having previously filled up and having tamped a clay castle at the bottom of the foundation pit with the capture of the perimeter of walls.
A hole is being prepared in the well cover for the vent pipes.
Above the storage, it would be wiser to make a small graveyard - it will protect it from the intense heat and winds.

For drainage of water around the perimeter of the cellar, a drainage is being prepared - a ditch 0.4 m deep filled with rubble.

If the groundwater is close, the cellar of concrete rings can be made shallow. That is, bury in the ground only part of the rings. The top and side walls of the repository, as well as in the case of the upper cellars, are filled with soil (roll up).

Cellar in the garage. Built to last!

Ready-made designs for cellars

The industry produces finished hermetic structures for cellars from a variety of materials: from plastic to metal. It is undesirable to use metal containers - they store heat poorly.

Install such a design is not difficult. A pit of the required size is prepared for it, into which the pressurized container is lowered. The space between it and the ground is covered with earth and densely tamped. If desired, a complete installation of such a cellar can make the manufacturer.

With a high rise of groundwater, lightweight plastic or metal constructions can easily be squeezed out to the surface. Therefore, they are necessarily heavier, falling asleep on top of a fairly thick layer of soil.

You can see firsthand the process of laying a plastic cellar on the following video:

In order for the cellar to always remain dry, and the temperature in it was stable, its construction should be carried out in compliance with certain rules and requirements. The work is quite voluminous, but in the future it will pay off with interest.

The cellar can be located as far from the rest of the buildings, as well as located under the house, garage, bath or shed. The storage, located under the building, allows you to save space on the site, and it will be much more convenient to use it in winter.

If you decide to build it in an open area, then you should choose a higher place - in the storage, located in the valley, there will be constant dampness. It is desirable that a detached cellar was located in the shade. In this case, in the summer it will warm up less.

In order to avoid the collapse of buildings in any case should not be located separately standing cellar half a meter from their walls.

Types of cellars

Decisive importance when choosing a type of cellar has ground water level . If the aquifer passes too close, during the spring floods your food reserves will be annually heated. And no drainage system will save - the more you pump out the water, the faster the ducts will erode, and every year more and more will be in the cellar.

To prevent it from flooding during floods, it must be located 0.5 m above this level. To determine how close groundwater is to the surface, you can use:

garden drill: 2.5 m long and more;

spoon drill: they drill wells under water, but you can use it for such a measurement.

After drilling, the well should stand alone at least a day. Next, the water level is measured using a long rod lowered into the well. Depending on the result, decide which type of cellar can be built on the site:

underground: the standard cellar, located on a dry area, most often deepens by 2.5-3 m;
semi-deep; less demanding of the soil, its depth is on average 1 m;
bulk: built on swampy soils where the groundwater level is very high;
cellar on a slope, a type of bulk, is used quite rarely.

For protection against frost heaving of the soil and preservation of heat in the storage cellar depth must necessarily be 0.5 m below the level of freezing.

Construction of the cellar stage by stage

It is necessary to build a cellar only in the summer - at this time ground waters fall to the greatest depth. So that the unclosed cellar is not flooded with water, work is carried out only in dry weather. If it still rains, the pit is temporarily covered with plastic.

Preparation of the pit

Floor construction

Floors in the cellar to pour concrete is undesirable. The soil located below the freezing depth will be the main (and in the case of the cellar outside the buildings) and the only source of heat in winter and cold in summer.

Clay castle

Our ancestors have long used compacted greasy clay for waterproofing foundations and basements. Of course, it will not save from the rise of groundwater, but from the capillary moisture, which constantly penetrates through the thickness of the soil, the clay is able to protect completely. Such protection is called clay castle .

To create it, clay is laid in layers:

at the bottom of the castle height of 0.4 m;

wall thickness 0.25-0.3 m.

To make the clay plastic, it is pre-soaked and left for a while to soak it. The ideal option would be its preparation in the fall. During the winter in the open air, it will pick up enough moisture, and it will be easy to work with it.

It should not crumble, but not flow out of the fingers. Clay is poured with adjustable formwork in small layers. You can start working with a new layer if it has dried to the consistency of clay.

The quality of the clay will be much higher if you add 20% lime to it.

Wall decoration

Walls can be made of brick, concrete, rubble or sheets of asbestos cement. The thickness of the concrete wall should be 5 cm, butt - 25 cm. To protect against capillary moisture before finishing, they coat with bitumen mastic, hot bitumen or paste over rolled materials (roofing material, roofing material, etc.).

For concrete casting prepare vertical formwork. To create a waterproof film, the wall can additionally be plastered with a cement-sand mortar - light up. The ratio of sand and cement in this case is 1: 1. To prevent cracking, lime is added to the solution (about 1/10 of the cement).

Be sure to warm the door or the door leading to the cellar. They should fit as closely as possible and have no gaps. They are made double-layered and edged with a bar or a metal corner with filling with any heat-insulating material (for example, foam plastic or expanded polystyrene).

Ventilation

Since most vegetables should be stored in dry ventilated areas, the cellar must be equipped with natural ventilation. To do this, perform the following work:

exhaust and intake pipes are mounted in the cellar:

Pros and cons of detached cellars

Detached structures have significant drawbacks:

Such storage facilities should be equipped with a ground part - the entrance and the roof, which significantly increases the cost of their construction.
Disadvantage of use in winter: the passage to them will need to be cleared of snow. Plus, in severe frosts, so as not to force a carcass, it is often undesirable to open them.

But there are positive moments of having a cellar located outside the house. The temperature in the subfloor under the heated building is always much higher than in the cellar. Therefore, vegetables and fruits in it are stored only until the end of winter - by spring potatoes, carrots and other vegetables begin to sprout, and fruits - flabby. In a separate cellar they are stored perfectly until the end of summer. Plus, if there is a sub-floor in the house, rodents get up faster there. If stocks are stored in a separate storage, the probability of their arrival in the house is reduced.

If the land is small and there is no space for building a detached cellar, you can use the advice of the author of this video and make a mini cellar with your own hands:

How and what to block the cellar?

The cellar is an indispensable building for owners of private houses, ensuring the safety of food for a long time. It is a room located below the zero mark and does not occupy additional space on the site. The overlapping of the cellar, carried out in accordance with building standards, will ensure the structural strength, maintain a stable temperature throughout the year and will not allow dampness to form.

Storage for food, preservation, vegetables, despite its apparent simplicity, will be appropriate for the purpose, if you take a responsible approach to the execution of the work and properly shut down the cellar.

Works on the overlap of the basement and the cellar with your own hands can be done on their own

Preparatory activities

In order for the room to fully perform the assigned functions, before you start building your own cellar, pay attention to the following points:

The implementation of earthworks is preceded by the development of the layout of the room, which think through to the smallest detail. This, in the future, will allow to avoid unforeseen situations.
Estimate the groundwater level at the construction site. Ideal if they are low. When placing the storage floor below a water-saturated formation, take care that water does not penetrate the floor and walls.

Only after reliable protection from moisture, you can equip the ceiling for the cellar. The task of waterproofing buildings - one of the main, as it determines the comfort mode of the room. How to properly execute it?

Moisture protection

Reliable waterproofing in the cellar impedes the penetration of moisture and is carried out as follows:

apply a layer of plaster on the side surfaces of the basement structure with the addition of liquid glass;
glue 2-3 layers of roofing material on a wet cement mortar;
erect brickwork, with which to press waterproofing to the walls.

Before pouring concrete to create a basement ceiling reinforcement and formwork must be mounted

Floor protection is carried out in a similar way, provides for the preparation of a “cushion” with a thickness of 20 cm from a mixture of rubble and sand.

When the box is prepared (walls, the floor is concreted and waterproofed), a ceiling is constructed in the basement. Should determine what is better to make the ceiling? After answering this serious question, you can calculate the need for materials and begin the execution of works.

Conveniently, when the basement is located in the room where the vehicle is stored. Doing all the work in the garage with your own hands, you can save financial resources, since you will not attract professional builders. To reduce costs, determine in advance the necessary materials, find out the prices at which they can be purchased. This will allow you to estimate the overall level of spending.

What types of ceilings can be installed on the cellar?

Types of floors

To ensure the integrity of the basement used various designs in which are used:

solid reinforced concrete slabs;
reinforced concrete monolithic prefabricated elements;

Fill quality enhances shading with vibrations

wooden structures;
bearing beams.

Let us consider in more detail their differences, the specifics of the arrangement.

Features of the installation of a monolithic block

If you are thinking about how to make the cellar overlap so that it is practical and reliable, then we recommend a common option - a monolithic reinforced concrete block, which is a reinforcement cage, filled with concrete.

The process of creating a solid reinforced framework requires the implementation of recommendations:

It is necessary to determine the size of the monolithic block and prepare the formwork.
Install strong supports to maintain the formwork, which, when pouring mortar and during curing, will ensure the integrity of the array.
Check the tightness of formwork boards.
Carry out mesh reinforcement and knitting of the frame after finishing the installation of the formwork. Build a reinforcement grid, ensure the spacing between the rods is 20 cm and the steel frame protrudes beyond the edges of the plate by 4 cm.
Cellar scheme with insulation and water drainage
When the formwork and frame are ready, you can begin to pour the solution.
Concrete continuously, uniformly feeding the compound until the completion of the formation of the array.
Remove air from the internal cavities of the liquid mixture using internal vibrators or standard fittings.

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Remember that a single-layer reinforcement cage provides strength, but in order to increase reliability, it is desirable to perform reinforcement in two layers.

After completing the pouring of concrete, ensure that the composition can acquire the necessary hardness and dry, which will take 30 days. The high strength of the monolithic construction allows it to be used as the basis for the construction of various buildings.

This overlapping cellar in the garage, which is planned, is very practical. After all, thanks to a solid monolithic basis, it can be used as a foundation for the construction of a storage room for vehicles.

The specifics of the installation of prefabricated monolithic slabs

The ceiling in the cellar can be formed using prefabricated monolithic slabs. To carry out construction activities, order special lifting equipment, which will significantly speed up the work.

Monolithic slabs are blocks that are laid between steel beams and then poured with a small layer of concrete.

There are a number of difficulties associated with increased tolerances on the length and width of the plates. They may simply not correspond to the actual storage sizes. Given that the length of the plates is from 9 to 12 meters, prior to the installation should be compared with the size of the building. If you plan to use monolithic prefabricated plates, it is desirable to take this into account at the design stage. The size of the basement room in width should correspond to the parameters of the installed plate.

If the sizes of the plates in the basement room correspond, the installation is carried out with the help of a crane. Follow the steps in the following sequence:

connect the elements of construction using steel profiles;
fill the cavity with insulating compounds in the joints;
fill the joint plane with concrete solution;
lay the roofing material on the surface using bitumen mastic.

Having trouble, how to make the overlap of the cellar? Use a prefabricated structure of solid concrete slabs, characterized by low price and allowing to reduce construction time.

Wood use

Planning to equip the cellar with your own hands? Use wooden beams - a proven, easy-to-work material.

If you are building a house of wood, you can block the basement with wooden beams

Follow the steps in the following order:

Treat all parts of the wood construction with an antiseptic.
Wrap the support surfaces of the beams in two layers of roofing felt.
Place the wooden bars on the upper surface of the cellar walls.
Fix the end of the boards with small planks, providing the basis for the roll boards.
Lay the board roll, secure it using screws.
Form a heat insulating circuit, mix with mastic, cover with roofing felt or roofing felt.
Fill the construction with earth, if the construction is not planned for the construction of any building.

Pay attention to the presence of grooves in the walls of the basement, necessary for the installation of load-bearing bars.

The use of metal

Decide what to block your basement? It is possible to use ordinary rails. The double tee is used as the bearing beams and differs in high durability.

Installation of railway profiles is made in special grooves provided in the walls of the building. This allows you to securely fix the structural elements. The length of the beams must correspond to the dimensions of the basement, the walls of which for them are the base.

Form a bearing surface according to the following algorithm:put steel bars between beams, fix them with wire;

mount wooden formwork, lay waterproofing coating on it;
install a power frame under the formwork to maintain the concrete massif;
fill the structure with a solution, observing the uniformity of the layer and continuity of work;
lay the roofing material on the surface.

Insulation works

The climatic parameters of the basement depend on the effectiveness of insulation. Use as a thermal insulation a mixture of wooden sawdust with cement mortar, which you should evenly apply on the surface with a layer 4 cm thick. Make finishing measures after the composition has dried. It is advisable to use foam, mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

Do not forget about the need for ventilation. This will prevent condensation.

Conclusion

How to make the overlap of the cellar, we found out. We recommend using high-quality raw materials, choosing proven solutions, and the room will serve you for more than a decade.

Online: Author and editor of articles on the site
Education and work experience: Higher technical education. Experience in various industries and construction sites - 12 years, of which 8 years - abroad.
Other skills: It has 4th electrical safety tolerance group. Perform calculations using large data arrays.

To save the crop is sometimes harder than to grow. A cellar that is generally available and practically does not require operating costs. When built separately, it is also the least time consuming and expensive compared with other types of storage facilities for agricultural products, except for the collar and the clandestine. But the cellar in the individual farm is optimal in many ways:

In the collar, you can only store 1-3 types of roots, and in the cellar everything that they eat and keep for sale, from potatoes to delicious smoked meats.
Loss stored in the cellar is much less than in the collar.
The burt needs to be disassembled, the heat has hardly been established, otherwise it will rot all over. In a well-equipped cellar, fruits and leaves can be kept fresh until summer, and root crops can be kept fresh.
The volume of earthworks and construction and installation work in the construction of the cellar is much less than the storage bunker type.
When building a cellar, you can do without expensive materials and complex technologies - a novice builder can make a good cellar with his own hands from scrap materials.
The complexity of the cellar is large enough, but comparable with the stacking of the collar and much less than for bunker storage. In addition - the cellar is built once, and the pile must be folded / disassembled annually.
Compared with the underground officer, a properly arranged cellar is better ventilated, which reduces the likelihood of rotting to an insignificant amount, and is poorly accessible to animal pests.
The cellar does not require constant energy supply, filling with preservative gas, etc. costly income from the side.
The cellar, if necessary, without any alteration is converted into a storage shed for storing large quantities of fruits and vegetables.
The allotment of land under the cellar is minimal down to zero, as well as for bunkers.
The cellar fits quite easily into the landscape design of the plot, see fig. Experienced and knowledgeable builders even manage to combine the cellar with a pond, right pos. ibid.
The specific microclimate of the cellar gives some products a special quality.

At the last 2 points should be delayed. First, a pond at the cellar can only be built as a builder and hydro-ace, because In fact, the presence of water near a cellar is absolutely contraindicated. True, in our time, the focus with the pond can pass even from a savvy lover, if the pond in the finished fiberglass or carbon bowl is equipped with overflow. But at the cellar will give a lot of excess land; then you can equip the cellar-glacier, see below, in which the apples and cabbage are made up to a new crop.

Secondly, a person completely devoid of the makings of a taster, when sampling at the bazaar, can easily distinguish canned cucumbers or sauerkraut from the barrel, in favor of the latter. But, if you give him the same try barrel-barrel pickles, not only vegetable, but also mushrooms, meat, fish, lard, aged in the cellar and flat-basement, then he will also easily give preference to the burial. And smoked products stored in the cellar, acquire a particularly delicate taste and aroma.

Thirdly, home-made kvass, well-fed, intoxicating honey and fruit and berry alcoholic beverages ripen only on the cellar (see below): infusions, beer, etc., and grape wine materials (wine, brandy) generally reach the desired condition only in a cellar with special conditions; wine and brandy cellars in the course of the presentation still touch.

What cellar to build?

In any climatic zone of the temperate zone it is possible to build a cellar of any of the 3 according to the degree of penetration of the types: non-buried, pos. 1 in fig. , semi-deep, pos. 2, and recessed.

As for materials, the structure (box, chamber) of the cellar can be concrete, stone (brick), wooden or earthen. We will return to the choice of material when it comes to construction itself, but for now pay attention: a cellar of any type must be encircled by a drainage ditch with free drain. A crude cellar is not a cellar, but a rotten one.

On the ground

A non-buried cellar is less labor-consuming, but it “feels good” to ground movements and stably holds only the average seasonal temperature, i.e. in winter it may freeze, and in summer heat up. To bring the temperature in it to the average annual (5-15 degrees within the Middle Strip of the Russian Federation) can be a powerful earthen filling. Such execution is possible if there is a lot of soil left from other construction works, but then more land acquisition will be required. A typical layout of a non-buried cellar is shown in Fig. Store in it mainly root crops until spring or for winter sale. It is simple to arrange a glacier in a non-submerged cellar, because removal of melt water does not cause difficulties. In this case, it is possible to store old fruits: quince, winter varieties of apples and pears until the new harvest. Material for construction - preferably wood or concrete, because brick chamber may crack during ground movement.

About vestibule

The risk of warming up the cellar can be reduced or even negated by providing it with a vestibule with 2 tight doors. So most often and build; cellar without a vestibule, in general, construction hack work. The exception is the cellars in very cold areas with a short summer, where the cellar will freeze rather than warm up. Tambour make inclined deep into, then the cold air will not spontaneously come out of it, and the warm will not leak. But if you want, you don’t want in an unburied cellar, but the platform will be horizontal, this is another minus of it.

In the ground

The structure of the semi-submerged cellar is shown in fig. on right. In the ground, he sits above the normative freezing depth (GGP) in the area. This allows you to keep the average annual temperature in the chamber almost all year round; in the height of summer, it rises slightly. Everything can be stored in a semi-submerged cellar, the land allotment for it is close to the minimum, and the excavated soil is almost always enough for sufficiently efficient filling, therefore it is preferable to build a semi-submerged cellar in the country house.

Due to the penetration and the presence of a poorly erupting cushion around the whole chamber, a semi-submerged cellar is not very sensitive to ground movements and can be built from any materials suitable for the cellar. As a result, a semi-submerged cellar exists in the largest number of varieties. Unfortunately, it is possible to supply a semi-submerged cellar with a glacier only if there is a drainage system on the site, since removal of melt water in a periodically frozen soil can cause an emergency.

Dugouts

Earthen cellars are very cheap: the materials for the construction take nothing at all, and the appearance fits perfectly into the dacha landscape, see fig. on right. The device of an earth cellar is shown in fig. below. Depending on the nature of the continental soil (see below), the chamber slopes are sheathed with boards; possibly by stakes driven into the ground, or left bare. On the floor will go samokopanaya around clay. It is also advisable for the roof to be covered with sand from the surroundings, on top of it with excavated soil, and lay turf on it as well. The upper structure of such a cellar will be an excellent cellar.

Labaze

Laboratories are earthen cellars of lesser depth, without an upper structure and with more powerful earth filling. Use storage sheds to store fruits, vegetables and root crops for the winter-spring sale, because In the summer in the heat they often warm up. Up to 8-10 types of products that are compatible during storage are loaded into the bins. In a large shed, 1-2 kinds of root crops are sometimes piled with shoulders on the floor.

The device is large and small, with a camera 2-3 times narrower, labazov is shown in fig. The length of the chamber is practically limited by the size of the site for storage. Ventilation labaza always exhaust and, highly desirable, with a fistula and umbrellas, catchers over the bins, see below. When storing several types of products, their bins each provide their own hoods. The length of the support posts in length is 1.2-1.8 m, depending on the thickness of their logs or bars, 150-250 mm, respectively.

Cellar on the slope

A very effective earthen cellar on a slope, see fig. on right. In order to be able to build it, the continental soil should be non-creeping, clayey or loamy, and dry. The advantages of the cellar-dugout on the slope:

Minimum consumption of labor and materials.
Almost insensitive to ground movement.
Perhaps the device of the glacier, because removal of melt water is simple.
The sloped ceiling with an extract at the ridge allows you to store a variety of products, because the gases emitted by vegetables and fruits during storage are lighter than air. In fact, the ceiling of the cellar on the slope is one large umbrella catcher above all bins at once.

Note: construction of any earthen cellar is possible only if from the bottom of the chamber to the groundwater in the period of their highest standing (see below) not less than 1.7 m.

Underground

The recessed cellar goes into the ground below the NOR, so the average annual temperature in the cell is stable. To reduce it to almost zero glacier is possible, because melt water can be diverted to permeable, non-freezing soil. This is almost a bunker, only without a layer of soil above the building. The buried cellar is very expensive and laborious and, unlike a bunker, removes land from economic use, therefore, they hardly build such in the Middle Strip. However, in the southern margins with the Mediterranean-type winters, one can sometimes find buried cellars-bottles or tandoor-type cellars, see fig. They are built with clay (in dry ground), brick or rubble. Due to the side sand backfill and the upper clay castle, the temperature in the cellar-bottle is kept 5-7 degrees below the annual average, i.e. up to 15 degrees. This is enough to store vegetables until spring, and melons with watermelons - until the New Year.

About the cellar

The cellar is the wooden upper structure of the cellar, a kind of hut above the chamber. Now the real log-house can be seen only in the open-air museum (on the left in the picture), but in vain. First, it serves as a thermal damper and stabilizes the temperature in the cellar at the level of the average annual, with a much smaller depth of the chamber. This is already important, because there are few places suitable for building an earthen cellar, and the cost and laboriousness of a stone cellar with a cellar are reduced by an amount greater than labor and funds for the superstructure. Secondly, the same smaller depth of the chamber allows building a cellar “on elevated water” instead of an expensive and complex chamber-caisson or half-weighton with drainage. And, finally, the full maturation of Russian home-made drinks is possible only at the basement. In general, if you decide to build such a cellar (the diagram on the right in the figure), and then take a bite of kvask from the cellar and compare it with a barrel draft, not to mention a bottle one, the question can be considered settled.

Note: Incidentally, the production of some branded and foreign traditional beverages, alcoholic and non-alcoholic, includes a stage of aging in conditions close to those in the cellar. In addition to the apple - cider, calvados, they ripen in the attic.

About ventilation

Ventilation in the cellar is necessary because during storage agricultural products emit gases, primarily ethylene and aldehyde vapors. Products affect each other by their evaporation, which reduces keeping quality, so that the air from the cellar must be removed, tolerating the loss of cold.

Exhaust ventilation will be optimal for the vegetable store, on the left in fig. Hood down to 0.5-0.8 m to the bins, emitting most of all gases: potato or apple, on the right in Fig. It is highly desirable, as has already been said, to have an exhaust hood with an umbrella over each storehouse; in a small cellar they can be reduced to one outlet pipe. The inflow of outside air is provided by openings with flaps in the doors.

Competent owners in the vegetable stores make a hood with a fistula: instead of simple holes, they supply the doors with whistles like a kettle boiling water alarm, only more. The fact is that the release of gases by products decreases closer to the depletion of keeping quality, this process is distributed in the bins or the collar from top to bottom. A vacuum occurs in the cellar chamber and the inflow of outside air increases. That is, if the fistula “started singing” in calm weather, it’s time to go through the stored.

In the cellars of universal, with pickles and blanks in an open container, smoked meat and animal products, forced-air and exhaust ventilation is necessary, see fig. on right. Its device is similar to basement ventilation, see below, but for the cellar, in order not to pull the pipes high up, the hood must be insensitive to the wind and work only on the draft. To do this, its cap diffuser (diffuser) is supplied with an annular obturator, as in industrial ventilation.

Glacier

In the cellar with a glacier maybe 9-10 months. in the year to maintain the temperature of 3-7 degrees, and the peak of the summer heat to wait at 12-15 degrees. It provides storage of many types of products until the new harvest. However, it is not that difficult to arrange a glacier in the cellar, see fig. The glacier bowl is made of waterproof concrete; You can use a bath with additional foam or foam insulation. The bath is convenient in that the siphon of the drain does not allow inadequate sludge into the drainage, but in general its volume is small: for a good glacier you need more than 1 cu. m. In a concrete bowl, an inclined partition keeps the plaster in a condensate collector.

Ventilation pipes of a cellar with a glacier, both of them should not “catch” the wind pressure, for which they are supplied with wind-independent diffusers. During normal operation of the glacier, the mass of melting ice slowly draws in the outside air and cools it, cold air also slowly flows to the floor, gradually heats up and goes into the hood. If the spring wind properly blows into the tributary or pulls through the hood, all the ice can melt within a day or two. In addition, the optimum humidity for storing plant products is 80-90%; The same value is acceptable for livestock products. But without extraction and with a source of water vapor in the form of melting ice, humidity can reach the condensation threshold, which is unacceptable for both.

Particular attention when setting up a cellar with a glacier should be given to drainage. If the cellar is on a dry hill, see below, there are no problems even with the non-buried: the drain is brought to the ground down the slope. But dumping it into the freezing soil, even the most porous, is unacceptable: latent frost can form, and in the summer from it - local soil suffusion, i.e. its sudden drawdown in the form of pits. This pit can be anywhere, incl. and under the apartment building.

Build a cellar

Construction of the cellar in stages is as follows:

The choice of location;
Soil research;
Determination of the depth of groundwater;
The choice of the type of cellar and material for construction;
Digging the pit;
Base device;
The construction of the camera;
Backfilling on top or erection of the upper structure;
Equipment: hatch (door), doors, shelves, bins, etc.

A place

The best place for a cellar - on a dry slope or slope. Also good will be the cellar on the hill. In either case, if the continental soil is sandy, the device of the glacier will not cause difficulties, see below. On other soils will have to take care of drainage. A cellar without a glacier can be built on level ground, but an earthen one is undesirable.

Is it possible to make room?

Land allotment for the cellar sometimes causes difficulties, and building a bunker is extremely difficult and expensive. Hence the quite natural question: is it possible to place a cellar under existing buildings? If there already is a basement, then the question of building a cellar generally disappears, except that the warehouse in the commodity economy.

The first thing that comes to mind is home, it’s convenient, you don’t need to go far. However, firstly, the construction of the cellar under the existing house in complexity and risk to violate the stability of the building exceeds the repair of the foundation and it is possible only when the house is completely settled, i.e. no earlier than 3-5 years after completion of construction. Suddenly, the foundation was cracked, there is no getting around, but you need to think and think about the cellar, time is in abundance.

Secondly, the cellar can be built under the house not on any foundation. For example, and exclude the construction of the cellar unequivocally. In fact, the only type of foundation for a home on which a bona fide builder will undertake is to develop a cellar project - recessed, i.e. normal, below NGP, deepening. And then, if the dimensions and layout of the house allow keeping the distance from the pit under the cellar to the inner sides of the tape at least 1 m. But still, you have to take as much land as the entrance to the cellar, and its structure will be so complicated, see fig. it will be easier to build a separate cellar next to the house. And this is not counting the manual, and nothing else, digging the pit under the building and the mandatory relocation of residents during construction. It’s another thing if there is no land under the cellar, and the house will only be built. Then you need to lay a basement in the project, it will be easier and cheaper in all respects.

Thirdly, the temperature in the cellar under the house will not be able to keep below 13-15 degrees, because Winter heat losses of the house will fall on him. If the temperature in it is knocked down by force in some way, then the probability of dampening the floor of the house is great. Lovers sometimes build cellars under the houses, but this is a lottery: one is lucky, but how many do not know what to do now? On the forums, they, of course, do not brag about it and do not upload videos.

In fact, the only case where the construction of a cellar under the house is justified is if the cellar is wine in places with a stable minus winter. Then the temperature in it will be just suitable for the maturation of wine materials. If the temperature in the cellar falls below about 10 degrees, the wine material can “catch a cold”, its taste and bouquet will spoil. By the way, it is not necessary to plant vineyards in the frosty edges, you can buy a young wine; possibly overtake, and withstand at home. In the Moscow region limestone cognacs are perfectly aged, the wine spirit for which is purchased on the Don. But in this case, experienced professionals should design and build the cellar, since There are no absolutely equally well-established houses, as there are no matching fingerprints. To take into account all the circumstances and develop a project for them, you need to be a very experienced and competent builder. Yes, lovers also sometimes build wineries themselves, but this is a double lottery. Let the construction work out and be reliable, you also need to try what kind of wine matures in that cellar.

Another thing - the garage. Let it be heated, no one will keep it above +12, ruinous. In the cellar then it will be + (7-8), just fine. In the summer, the garage will serve as a heat damper like a cellar. Kvass "from the garage" is better, of course, not to try, but warming up the cellar in the summer is likely to be avoided. It is a pity to break the existing screed, but this is not a disaster.

In a standard 7x4 m garage, a cellar of 2x (1.5-1.7) m is placed along a blank rear wall. Considering that the edge of its box should be no closer than the same 1 m to the basement of the garage, the viewing pit will have to be shortened. But, since it is most often necessary to climb into it because of the transmission, it is not so terrible: all of a sudden it will be necessary to look under the hood, the car can be rolled back. If the body - the usual sedan, then there are no problems at all, because There is no need for rear seats on the rise of the 5th door. In general, the cellar in the garage is somewhat more laborious, but optimal with a lack of free land on the plot. How to build it, see below.

Note: the cellar under the garage should be equipped with separate ventilation from the garage, the same as the basement, see fig. on right.

Priming

To determine the nature of the soil in the place of interest, humus is removed to the underlying (continental) rock in the area from 0.5 mx 0.5 m. The ideal soil under the cellar is dry, little heaving; for a cellar with a glacier - permeable for the sake of simplicity of the drainage device, but not excessively, so that the drain does not migrate where it is not necessary, combining high heat capacity with low thermal conductivity. The carrying capacity does not matter much, the load is small, but ease of development is important, because will have to dig a lot by hand.

The rocky ground (pos. 1 in the figure) is non-telling and heat-absorbing, but it is heat-conducting and it is very difficult to dig. Close to the ideal detrital (semi-rock) soil, pos. 2, because it doesn’t sweat much, even if it’s highly moistened, but it’s impossible to discharge directly from the glacier directly to it, the water in such soils migrates far and unpredictably. Digging debris is also not easy.

The best soil under the cellar - sandy, pos. 3. It satisfies all the conditions of “ideality”, except for the heat capacity, but it can be increased by filling the chamber from above; the slopes of the chamber of the earthen cellar in the sandy loam must be decorated with wooden shimtami. Loam Pos. 4, worse: it conducts heat well and, when it is flooded, it becomes very swollen. The cellar in the loam on level ground is better not to build.

Completely unsuitable for the cellar as bearing sand, pos. 5, and clay, pos. 6. But they will go great on the backfill and pillow. Natural samokopany sand is good because it is not divided into fractions, and for the construction of the cellar that is necessary. If there is dry peat in the vicinity, pos. 7, it can (and should) be started up on the very first, counting from the camera, a layer of top filling; clay with sand and turf then "pushing" to fit a layer of peat. It is an excellent heat insulator and desiccant, the products in the cellar with peat are stored much longer.

Absolutely not suitable for the cellar in any quality silty soils, pos. 8. You can recognize them as dry by a dull gray, some kind of dusty, color, and a rotten, musty, muddy, smell that intensifies when the sample is wetted.

Groundwater and material

The earthen cellar can be built not lower than 1.5 m above groundwater, the brick one — not lower than 1.2 m, and the concrete monolithic not lower than 0.7 m. The depth of the aquifer surface is determined during the period of the highest standing of groundwater; in the middle zone of the Russian Federation this is the end of April - the first half of May.

A sample of the height of the water is done on the same platform, which determined the type of soil. It is difficult and difficult to carry out test drilling, but in this case the old “detector” of wool with an egg will help out. Search for them drinking water is not necessary, because He “catches”, first of all, a dirty top layer, but for the cellar it is just that he has to “catch” the highest water.

"Detector" is prepared in the evening. For the sample, a piece of clean new, not worn, felt the size of a plate or a shred of wool of the same size 3-5 cm thick, and a fresh chicken egg is placed on the pad without humus. Best of all - fresh, warm. The egg in this case checks the soil moisture absorption, because exudes water vapor. The “device” is covered with a tight cap (boiler, pan) and its edges are pressed to the ground; sprinkling them on the ground does not hurt.

The next morning, preferably immediately after sunrise, watching what happened there. The results are interpreted as:

Egg and wool are dry - you can build any cellar.
The egg is wet to the touch, the wool is dry - you can build a brick or concrete cellar.
The egg is dry on top, the wool is damp to the touch - the cellar is only concrete.
An egg in the dew, the wool looks damp, when squeezed in a fist, the water is squeezed out a little - the cellar cannot be built.

Note: if the cellar is with a door, not a manhole, then the entrance is oriented north. It is also highly desirable to orient the door of the upper building to the north.

About high water cellars

It happens that the cellar is needed, and the water on the site is underground high. In this case, it is also possible to build a cellar by arranging anti-pressure waterproofing. But this is not a job for an amateur: the isolation scheme is developed by experts according to surveys on site, and there are no universal standard solutions as such. Secondly, this work is difficult and expensive. For example, in fig. on the right is one of the anti-pressure isolation schemes. We emphasize - only one, tied to specific local conditions. Successful amateur buildings should also be chosen for the foundation, after consulting with experts: there are no similar local conditions; that is dry there, get wet here.

Pit and base

It is better to dig a cellar pit, of course, with an excavator, but bring the hole to the form by hand. They are digging with their hands in a “plow”, scraping the loosened soil with a shovel to a dense “trowel”, i.e. continental soil. The pit shape is an overturned truncated 4-sided pyramid; so it is necessary that the bottom and side backfill counteract the forces of heaving. The box in the pit with a cube, especially a brick one, will have to be reinforced with reinforcing seams and corners, which is expensive, time consuming and far from 100% reliable. The reserve for backfilling for stone and concrete cellars takes about 0.7 m in depth, counting from the bottom surface of the chamber floor; in width - 0.5 m below and 0.7-1 m above. To increase it in no way hurt. For a wooden cellar, a hole is dug in size and right there they drive the stakes close to the walls, to which the sheathing will be attached. The depth of driving into the trowel is from 30-40 cm.

Note: the pointed ends of the stakes are burned over the fire before charring to a depth of 0.5-1 cm, turning continuously. If caught on fire, quench in sand; water can not be poured! Then impregnated with oil protective compounds for wood; You can use testing. Water-polymer emulsion, magic wand in many cases, working with porous materials, will not last long in the ground.

Next, the bottom of the pit covered with sand at 20-25 cm and, sprinkling lightly, ram it. You can use a tamper or hand roller for garden paths. A mixture of 1: 1 sand, not sorted by fractions, with fine gravel-sifting, i.e. All fractions, from the smallest grains of sand to grains the size of a sunflower seed or a pea, should be in the backfill.

The second backfill is leveled horizontally with a rake or scraper on the handles and tamped without wetting. Finally, evenly pour it on top of very hot, almost boiling bitumen, until a “mirror” is formed. But it is impossible to overflow, a layer of bitumen over the backfill should be 3-4 mm. This is the basement of the cellar; further depends on the material of construction.

Box

Earth and tree

If the cellar is earthen, then a clay floor is formed over the frozen bitumen. When covering the chamber with a tree, they first mount the shields, and then fill the floor.

Brick and stone

On a brick cellar you need a dense dark, well-seasoned brick-iron. Blistering and warping (“propeller”) by 3-4 mm, i.e. no more than a third of the thickness of the masonry joint, not a hindrance; it is important that the water in itself is smaller than that. It will be even better, but it will be more expensive, concrete foundation or shaped blocks of waterproof concrete, see fig.

Masonry lead on a bitumen mirror. The first row is poked, i.e. the bricks are laid across, the corners are drawn along the short side, see fig. on right. The following rows lay with spoons with a simple chain ligation of stitches. In a well-arranged pit, there is enough laying in half-brick. If you want to lay down the walls in brick for reliability, then the scheme is simple: tychkovy number through 4-5 spoon. In case a stairway is needed, its framing is placed in fence-by-pillars, in a brick with an empty core, the same figure. It is desirable, if there is something, to reinforce the seams, as when building a cellar in a garage, see below.

After the finished masonry has dried, the box outside (preferably from the inside too) is plentifully, twice, impregnated with bitumen mastic. Modern primers for ultra-deep stone penetration are even better, but expensive. Primers just deep penetration is not suitable. Further work is done on the full drying of the primer; for bitumen is a week or two, depending on the weather. The box is protected from rain at this time by stretching a film with gaps above the ground above the pit of the tent.

Concrete

For a concrete box, it is better, of course, to order water-resistant and frost-resistant concrete of medium plasticity, but you can also make do-it-yourself. The composition is also common: cement M400, medium sand (1 mm) fraction and fine crushed stone 1: 2: 4. Water - 170-190 liters per cube of the finished solution; on the floor more, on the walls less.

First, the base is poured footing 40-50 mm; in the solution for it is good to add a plasticizer. When footing grab, collect the reinforcement cage, common to the floor and walls. Typical reinforcement scheme; 150 mm thick floor, walls 200-250 mm. It is very convenient to use plastic reinforcement, then the frame is pre-assembled at the top and just put in a pit on a frozen footing. The whole monolith at the same time get more reliable.

Assembling / placing the frame, assemble the formwork. First poured the floor; as soon as he grabs the walls. It is impossible to delay, as with footing: the whole monolith must be poured long before concrete gains strength, otherwise it will not be a monolith. The walls are poured in layers, in the same order as when laying the strip foundation. Since the vibration compaction is not applicable in this case, the flooded walls are knocked down, also as in the construction of the foundation.

It is better to fill the monolith in spring or autumn: in hot weather, the concrete will “mature” too quickly and the monolith will be fragile. Upon setting, the monolith is moistened, as it should be during concrete work. After curing (20 days at +15 and 7 days at +25), they are treated with bitumen mastic, like a brick, or, better, with a super-deep primer, but on concrete. The final stage is the formation of a floor screed.

Wood work

Completing the construction of any camera flooring its upper overlap. Most often, the slab is covered with croaker in 2 layers across, it is strong enough for a cellar and is cheap. If provided for the chosen design, make a log ceiling in 1-2 roll. All wood in the cellar must be treated with oil formulations or mining; the shields of the inside lining of the wooden cellar too.

Top backfill

The hill above the cellar is poured according to the scheme of the selected sample. Clay in it waterproofing and cold battery; sand - heat insulator. You can not stand on ceremony with them: the thicker the better. The ratio of the thickness of the layers is about 1: 2 or 1: 3 (clay: sand). On the role of peat has already been said, it will be enough for 20-40 cm. The sod directs the surface runoff to the sides.

Arrangement

The tambour of the cellar will be the simplest and cheapest, prefabricated with shield insulation with foam plastic. Suddenly, this part of the building is completely maintainable. It is better to make a log-house or a log-house; other topsides - by project or selected sample.

Especially need to say, first, about the stairs and hatches. A ladder to the cellar, if it is not added, must be made either in kosoura, or between the walls of the vestibule, on the left in Fig. below. Stairs with hanging steps, to the right of the same place, can be beautiful, but the cellar is very traumatic.

Hatches for cellars with lifting mechanisms (see fig. On the right) are on sale. They open / close by pressing lightly. However, if you are not too lazy to get a little tight, the hatchway for the cellar can be made from the remains and trimming yourself. Its diagram is shown in fig. left. In the same way, you can make and insulated cellar doors.

Secondly, wiring. Cellar, according to PTB - a particularly dangerous room according to the degree of electric shock. Power supply in such - 12 V and no more volts. In the basements of apartment buildings wiring is 36 V, but there are no outlets, the light switch outside the room is especially dangerous and the tenants do not have access to electrical work in underground structures, but they have a communal electrician at their disposal.

It is necessary to power the cellar from a 220/12 V isolation transformer wound with copper on iron. Electronic inverters do not provide proper separation of circuits 220 and 12 V. Between the transformer windings there should be a static screen (open loop of copper or aluminum foil) electrically tight, i.e. soldered or welded, connected to the transformer magnetic core. The very same magnetic circuit is also deafly connected to the house grounding bus or to the homemade ground loop; A pair of pins in this case is enough. But grounding the transformer through a three-pole euro socket is unacceptable!

Cellar in the garage and under the house

It's time to remember the promised cellar in the garage. In a similar way, the cellar under the house is constructed with a manhole from the room, but then you have to break the floor, beat the ceiling, and take the buckets to dig out the cubes of the earth when digging the pit. As the cellar is built under the garage, rice shows step by step:

Build a brick box, as described above, because concrete work in such conditions is unreal;
Masonry joints are reinforced with perforated steel strips 2-4 mm thick. It is convenient to use press stamping waste. This is necessary because it is extremely difficult to arrange a normal pit with slopes and anti-dumping under the existing structure;
Steel pins are bricked up in the seams of the upper masonry row, and tape from the same strip is welded to them. Putting mortgages stronger makes no sense, because There will be no wind and other operational loads that would increase the overlap. A spinal beam from a brand or 2 welded corners from 60x60 to 100x100 mm and an opening of the hatch from the same or smaller, up to 40x40 mm corners are welded to the tape;
Going to the welding frame of the concrete slab. The stiffening ribs of the frame are assembled from the same strips connected by reinforcing rods of 12-16 mm. At the same stage, ventilation and metal trunks are mounted for wiring;
Bottom mounted formwork of 40-mm boards on props of timber or logs from 150 mm. The installation step supports - up to 600 mm. The formwork shield is pre-coated with waterproofing;
The formwork should be kept at 30-50 mm from the stiffeners, as it should be, but the pipes and corrugations should sit tightly in it, for which the gaps are coated with a cement-sand mortar;
Pour overlap 30-40 mm above the ribs. According to their strength set, 40-50 mm of foam are laid, departing from the edge of the plate by 50-60 mm. It is impossible to push foam close, it will soon crumble from temperature deformations. Sometimes mice are blamed for this, but what do they do in the garage? Insulation stabilizes the temperature in the cellar. Immediately collect the reinforcement mesh screed overlap all of the same bands, laid flat; strip fasten with soft wire, put the hatch and pour the tie;
The device of the grid under the coupler is shown in more detail.

Note: the depth of the pit under the garage cellar is calculated so that the screed on the floor fits even with the screed on the floor. Absolute accuracy, of course, is not achieved, so the floor slab is poured with a thickness of 30-120 mm in place. It is desirable to keep within 50-70 mm.

Just in case

No cellar is guaranteed against water. Subsurface drain and roofing are insidious and capricious, they wander underground in the most bizarre way. What kind of repair the cellar will need, all of a sudden it becomes damp, another question. First you need to remove the water; maybe after that and without repair will cost. Specialists for the drainage of the filled cellar take expensive, so the home master first is better to try to divert water on their own, it won't be worse. One of the available methods for draining a filled cellar / basement is to discharge water into the underlying aquifer. How to make it, see the video.

It is difficult to replace the cellar in the country with a refrigerator: only a special room will hold vegetable stocks and dozens of jars of salads, jams and pickles, which lovingly prepared hostesses. One of the popular options is not to use the basement of a residential building, but to build a cellar with your own hands near the house, making an original exterior finish and equipping the interior to your liking.

Two concepts should be distinguished - the cellar and the basement. The room that is located in the house below the first floor, that is, below ground level, is usually called the basement. Its area is most often equal to the area of the house, so it easily accommodates several economic blocks. There may be storage rooms (including a cellar), a boiler room, a laundry room, and with well-thought-out insulation, an extra room or pool. A common option is a spacious garage combined with a workshop.

The cellar has a more specific purpose - it serves only to store food: seasonal dacha harvest or canned stocks. The premises are equipped with a large number of convenient shelves, racks, stands, as well as a ventilation system and a planned thermal insulation, creating the most suitable mode for storing fresh vegetables. For some products, a glacier (natural freezer) is provided. The cellar can be located both in the basement of a dwelling house, and in a separate area, in a dugout or above-ground structure. Build a cellar in the country with their own hands is no more difficult than to build a gazebo or a bath.

Separate cellar - the ability to decorate the backyard area with the original structure of the most incredible design, reflecting the style of the entire plot

Masonry, unusual shape, heavy doors with iron hinges and bolts - and in front of us is not a simple village cellar, but a fragment of an ancient castle

Independent construction of a semi-submerged cellar

The most common version of the dacha cellar - semi-deep. It makes it possible to simultaneously kill two birds with one stone: to decorate the area with the original construction and create optimal conditions for the storage of vegetables and fruits.

Design features of this structure

The whole structure is divided into two parts of different sizes, one of which is above the ground, the second - completely in the ground. The penetration of the lower part largely depends on the groundwater level. If it allows, then the depth of the storage reaches 2.3-2.5 m. The height of the upper part depends on the destination. If it is just a decorative vestibule, then it is small in size and limited by the height of the entrance door, equal to the height of a person. If the above-ground part plays the role of a summer kitchen, dining room or guest house, the ceiling height can be 2.5 m.

The desire to build a semi-submerged cellar usually arises when the basement of the house is not intended for storing products, and there is a need to erect additional construction, for example, a summer kitchen. Of course, we need a detailed work plan and a scheme for the future structure. For the walls of the cellar, you can use any materials, since its construction is similar to the construction of an ordinary house with a basement. As a rule, brick, concrete, stone are used, and wood is excellent for the above-ground part.

A beautiful example of a semi-submerged dacha cellar: a small stone porch with a wooden roof rises above the ground and the vault is underground

Semi-deep cellar: a - top view; b - in section; 1 - heat insulation layer; 2 - finishing whitewash; 3 - top layer - tile; 4 - bitumen coating; 5 - fixing clay lock; 6 - base

The floor in the underground part is poured with concrete, sometimes stopping on rammed clay. Wooden beams are ideal for floors. All parts of the structure: walls, floors, ceilings - are covered with heat insulation from other materials, for example, clay grease. Ideal - the use of modern waterproofing: mineral wool, bitumen and polymer coatings.

A convenient hatch connects both tiers, the dimensions of which are determined taking into account portable containers - bags, boxes, buckets, cans.

The staircase leading to the cellar usually looks like an ordinary stepladder. If the ground space is not heated additionally, the upper part is equipped with a hatch.

General rules for the construction of an independent cellar:

Construction is carried out in the warm season.
For the construction of the cellar is ideal hill.
A prerequisite is the equipment of the premises of the cellar ventilation.
Wooden parts are additionally processed with antiseptic.
The entrance door is located on the north side.

Underground part - cellar

First you need to dig a pit, which is half a meter in each direction more than the cellar. Spare 50 cm will come in handy when you need to waterproof the walls or carry out communications. The walls are laid out of bricks, concrete blocks or stones. If wooden logs or timber are used, then every detail should be treated with a special remedy for rot and mildew. Often they make a monolithic concrete structure in the form of a basement: they prepare the formwork, construct some kind of net from reinforcement and fill it with concrete solution. To protect the corners and joints using roofing material. After dismantling the formwork, the walls are plastered with cement mortar on both sides.

There is a solution how not to wait for a long drying of concrete. Instead of a monolithic fill, you can use asbestos cement sheets, fixed on a wooden crate. From the outside, the installed structure should be covered with bitumen mastic.

The plaster for waterproofing the wall on the outside is different from the usual one: it includes a bituminous compound, which is an excellent water-repellent material

Protection from groundwater that can not only increase the humidity inside the room, but also destroy the walls, is the drainage layer. It may be connected to a water well dug near the cellar. As a drainage material use gravel, brick battle, a stone of a small fraction, crushed stone.

If the cellar is built on a slope or in a trench, be sure to take care of the drainage of water, digging up small slopes up the slope

The base of the building is protected with a moisture-proof cushion: a layer of broken brick or rubble is poured in, tamped with it and filled with heated bitumen.

Ventilation installation

To prevent dangerous gases from accumulating in the underground room and excess condensate moisture to appear, it is necessary to arrange ventilation - a primitive system consisting of just one pipe. An inexpensive galvanized pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm is suitable. One end of it goes into the room where vegetables are stored, the second - on the street. A more sophisticated solution implies the presence of two pipes: one located under the ceiling is intended for exhaust, the second, above the floor, for fresh air.

Aboveground construction - a graveyard

The above-ground part is being constructed last of all, when the cellar equipment has been fully completed, a clay lock and backfill have been made. It must be wider than the bottom, in order to protect the underground from the upper side from low temperatures, rain and melting snow.

There are several options for building a grave - from a miniature vestibule to a spacious room. If its main purpose is to protect the hatch leading under the ground, it is enough to make a good waterproofing and tight door. If you plan to make a full-fledged room, suitable for frequent stays, for example, a summer kitchen, then you will have to take the improvement more seriously. Particular attention should be paid to the arrangement of the roof, insulation and wall cladding. The final stage of the construction of the cellar concerns the interior decoration.

The cellar, partially or completely underground, naturally keeps the temperature optimal for storing fresh crops and canned food.

The interior decoration of the cellar includes not only the flooring and cladding or plastering of walls, but also the installation of shelving, boxes and boxes for storing crops.

Overhead design

There are many ideas for the construction of the grave. Sometimes it is difficult to distinguish it from an ordinary gazebo or summer kitchen: there is a neat little house with windows near the house, and no one will say that there is a voluminous basement with a dozen shelves under it.

Often, for the construction of the cellar they use not the basement of the house, but the spacious underground room under the summer kitchen is convenient and practical

Many buildings other than the cellar, and you will not name. Their whole appearance suggests that behind the door there are rich food stocks for the winter, and possibly wine cellars. Such buildings are different original design: deliberately rough stonework, unusual roof configuration, powerful oak doors.

The cellar, surrounded on all sides by land, is easiest to build in an area crossed by a small ravine, a ditch or an artificially dug trench

It is easiest to determine earthen cellars with the so-called embankment: they are surrounded on all sides by an earth mound covered with sod or a flower garden.