Assembly and painting of scale models. How to paint prefabricated aircraft models
| Collections of prefabricated models are a whole miniature world. Small, so detailed and realistically executed copies of military, and not only, equipment - planes, ships, cars, motorcycles - often become the subject of enthusiastic collectibles. Moreover, it is pleasant not only to collect a collection of prefabricated models, creating, for example, a mini-exposition of a military event, but also to directly participate in their creation. The object model is sold disassembled as a set. This is a kind of volumetric puzzle that needs to be assembled, clearly focusing on the attached instructions. The models are made of high-quality plastic with preservation of all the smallest details inherent in a real object. |
In some models, the parts are already painted, but in most cases, the parts in the set have a solid gray color, which you need to add picturesque to yourself.
It is worth noting that painting a prefabricated model is a rather painstaking business. But do difficulties frighten us? Then let's get started!
|
What is required to paint prefabricated models 1 Paint Choosing a paint for modeling is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Water-soluble acrylic paints are excellent and can be applied with a brush or sprayed with an airbrush. Modeling paints are conveniently sold in sets specially selected for the color of a particular type of equipment, for example, "Military equipment", "Ships", "Aviation", etc. |
 |
2 Brushes Brushes will do whatever you like, as long as the pile is soft and does not leave marks. Although in some cases, such traces can give a realistic texture to the model. For example, to convey the texture of wood on the planks of a ship, you can use a small diameter bristle. You can use an airbrush instead of a brush, but this is a tool for professionals.
|
In practice, you can achieve excellent results with a brush. Choose brushes of several sizes, round and flat, so that you can easily paint large surfaces and small details. 3 Primer When painting models with acrylic paints, a primer is required, otherwise the paint will simply "roll" off the surface without painting it. In addition, with a primer, it is easier to identify unexpected irregularities on the surface, so that later they can be putty, cleaned and primed again. It is not necessary to prime models for nitro paint, but nevertheless it will not be superfluous to identify and eliminate irregularities. Be sure to choose a primer that is suitable for polystyrene so as not to damage the model! |
 |
4 Varnish Varnish is an excellent protection of the finished model from all external factors. The model can not only be wiped from dust, but even completely "bathed" under the tap, without fear of rubbing off the paint or damaging something. For nitro paints, both nitro and acrylic varnish are suitable. But for acrylic paints, only acrylic varnish should be used! Otherwise, the paint layer may swell.
7 Thinner Whenever you work with acrylic, keep your acrylic thinner with you. It will help to keep the brushes in their original form and to erase random drops of paint.
For the model itself, you will need a model knife or paper cutter, nippers, sandpaper of various grain sizes, and a file will not be superfluous. You may need a one-component, designed for modeling, putty, flat spatula for applying putty on irregularities, and for very small models, you can take a flat screwdriver instead of a spatula.
A large number of varnishes, paints and primers are sold in aerosol cans. The paints do not need to be diluted, in general, this option is well suited for large models.
Preparation for work
Having prepared and protected the work surface and furniture around, you can start assembling the model. Carefully detach the parts from the sprues and carefully sand the cuts to smooth them out.
Carefully study the instructions and see which places you can paint over after gluing, and which not. Based on this, some parts of the model can be immediately connected to each other. Apply the glue pointwise with the very tip of a brush or a regular sewing needle, then press the glued parts tightly against each other and leave for a few minutes. The glue will dry completely in about a day.
If the model contains transparent parts, it is better to cover them with masking tape.
Do this in any convenient way, for example, dampen a cotton pad or lint-free cloth in a degreaser. Do not touch the part with your hands! Degreasers, such as alcohol and gasoline, evaporate on their own, and dishwashing detergents must be rinsed off under running water, after which the parts must dry thoroughly.
Let's start painting
First you need to decide on the base color of the model. See what color should be the most on the finished product - take this color as a basis. It may need to be applied in several layers.
It's important to know!
When painting models of military and other equipment, do not use solid colors. Even if the color seems saturated and uniform, try adding a little black, white, or sandy yellow to it. Do not be afraid to experiment with the palette, and then the result will be very natural. For example, if a part looks black, try painting it dark brown and darkening some areas with black.
|
Having covered the details of the model with the main color and waiting for it to dry, you can start toning. To do this, you can use the same paints from the set, only diluting them strongly with water. You can apply darkening or imitate dried dirt in color. It is better to combine different toning colors, so the model will be "livelier". |
 |
A brown, gray filter, ocher will do, or you can apply several filters one after the other. After applying the filter, leave the model to dry for at least a day.
You can make the model even more realistic. For example, the image of adhering dirt is good with a sponge, and splashes are easy to depict if you put paint on a toothbrush and run your finger over it, spraying the paint on the desired surface. You can achieve texture, for example, adhering lumps of earth, by mixing the paint with PVA glue and putty. Rubbing paint in with a dry brush will also give interesting effects. And if you slightly blur some areas on the model with thinner, you get an imitation of paint fading in the sun.
That's all. Now you can show your friends a real miniature model, not only assembled, but also painted with your own hands!
If this article was helpful to you, please rate it (at the top of the page). Thanks!
Visitors to this page most often choose from the online store:
30.06.2016
Painting models with an airbrush can be either auxiliary in the form of base blowing, or detailing without using a brush. It is also possible to apply primer and varnish without excessive dust and dirt with an "air brush", this frees from smudges and irregularities of paint application, overspending of material, and also makes the work much thinner and easier. Perhaps the main advantage of airbrushing is the creation of smooth color transitions.
If an advanced modeler goes further and does not stop at the level of the base blowing with an airbrush, all chiaroscuro, highlights, dots and small details can be drawn with an airbrush. However, the accuracy of the instrument in this case should be higher. As well as the skillfulness of the author.
Preparing the model for painting
As with any work with plastic or metal, the surface must be pre-prepared before painting:
- matting - the formation of adhesion due to the application of the smallest sanding with abrasives with a grain value of 1500 or 2000;
- degreasing - before applying the pattern, it is required to degrease the surface using a universalanti-silicone cleaner and special tissue for degreasing since touching the surface with your hands or other ways of getting fat on it;
- priming - applied after the surface acquires an even matte shade without irregularities, possibly even in several layers.
Airbrushing Models - Base Application
The base is applied over the primer in repetitive strokes in layers of thin spraying. That is, you need to press the trigger of the airbrush down with each wave of your hand, opening the way for the air flow and pressing the air valve, and then pulling the lever towards you, giving out the paint.
If you just press the trigger down and back once and drive back and forth near the surface, the paint will fall down with air bubbles and bumps, forming a "shagreen". Therefore, when applying the base coat, you should not rush, it is better to work thinly and in layers. You can immediately place accents in light and shade, based on the logic of where the light comes from, where the tone will be denser and darker.
Those areas that need to be painted in a different color and protected from possible dusting can be covered with masking tape or very thin vinyl contour tape.
Features of working with acrylic paints
When painting models with an airbrush, the quality of the paint, its hiding power, dispersion and other properties matter. Among the paints for modeling, enamels and paints on a water-acrylic basis stand out. Enamels have a number of advantages:
- metallics look more realistic;
- transparent enamels are able to create a candy effect, like on real cars, if the task requires it;
- all enamels lay down and are fixed to the surface better than acrylic.
Painting models with acrylic paints is overwhelming due to the fact that all the advantages of enamel are usually crossed out at home by a rather pungent smell. With a wide palette of rulers, the water-acrylic ruler can cause breeding problems for newcomers to modeling. Especially with a shallow trigger stroke, acrylic particles quickly freeze on the needle and quickly clog the nozzle, so it is better to dilute the paint to the state of "milk". As a thinner, you can use vodka or a proprietary thinner from the manufacturer (airbrush thinner). If, after liquefaction, the paint continues to clog fine nozzles with a diameter of 0.15-0.2 mm, a retarder medium can help.
When choosing the right airbrush, you can rely on the following rule:
- 0.15-0.3 mm - airbrushing camouflage and other subtleties using the "free" hand method;
- 0.35-0.5 mm - application of the base coat, priming and varnishing of the model. Because with an airbrush with a narrower nozzle, it is extremely inconvenient to dilute soils and varnishes, which are always thicker in consistency.
The problem of density and possible sticking to the needle is especially relevant when painting models with acrylic paints. And when breeding, they can lose their originally inherent qualities. Also, the soil can be coarse, form a difficult-to-wash film on a thin diameter.
After painting the models with an airbrush and completing work with acrylic rulers, it is imperative to thoroughly rinse the instrument with the same vodka or alcohol, if the case is already running and old particles of dried paint remain, the flushing liquid will help to soak and wash them clean.
If, after the stage of painting the models, the airbrush is clogged, video on parsing and collecting to the last bolt will save you from possible damage to spare parts. Although it is better not to bring to a major blockage and blow out the tool immediately after work with alcohol or rinsing.
We paint a tank with an airbrush
It is almost impossible to get a uniformly painted surface of the model with a brush or sponge, the level accurately for such work can go off scale. For a number of paints, it is possible to apply exclusively with an airbrush. Camouflage stripes on the tank are drawn at a slight distance from 1.2 to 1.4 bar. The thinner you need to create a line, the less you need to squeeze the trigger of the airbrush and draw closer to the surface, with a hair thickness you can even remove the protective cap of the needle from the airbrush, making the drawing using the "open" needle method. It is better to hold the airbrush nozzle normal to the surface so that the edges of the camouflage are not created too blurry. When painting a model of a tank with an airbrush, the tool cannot be kept in one place near the surface; it is better to make movements along the contour of the model.
As a rule, the model annotation lists the exact colors with paint numbers for each manufacturer. You can rely on this, choosing the right colors, or simply pick up similar analogs and colorize.
The law of aerial perspective - based on the scaling of the model: rather far-away objects are, as it were, lightened by the thickness of the air, as if they are under a blue filter. We multiply the number of meters through which we observe the model and see it as a whole by the scale. Lighten all the colors by the obtained%.
Washes, special effects, decals and other modeling tricks
You can show additional volume with the help of the correct toning of the model, i.e. emphasizing the relief and surface texture by darkening the recesses and highlighting the highlights of the upper parts. Washes - These are liquid diluted paints with a reduced pigment content, which flow into depressions and cracks. When the wash dries up, remove the excess with a cotton pad. It is important to pay attention to the chemical composition of the remover, which may contain solvents and affect the acrylic painted surface layer.
Dry brush method- Light pigment or slow drying paint is rubbed into the basecoat in the lightest areas. The brush should have a minimum of the coloring effect, so it should be wiped dry initially.
Decals- the technique of applying decals, most often used to transfer symbols or attributes in various branches of the military in modeling. The decal may look whitened due to traces of air bubbles accumulating between the decal and the model. Most often this occurs when the model is blown with a matte varnish. Therefore, there is a reason to cover the places reserved for decals separately with a glossy varnish. General leveling can be done by blowing out the surface with a final coat of matt varnish.
Dirt and drip effects
The tank, being part of military equipment, is subject to the effect of corrosion, is constantly in mud and oil leaks. Over time, the effect of "weathering" of the paint from the surface occurs.
Painting a model of a tank with an airbrush in stages:
- covering the tank model with the main color;
- highlighting the most rubbing surfaces of the model with paint several tones lighter than the base;
- in life, after a short time of operation, a dark film of dirt and smudges forms on the tank's parts around the most prominent points, which accumulates in all the recesses of the model. It is necessary to realistically reproduce these moments, which will help the black wash. Also, with the help of it, it will be possible to level out dark and light transitions. The black wash highlights the small details of the tank - welds, bolts and rivets, etc.;
- glossing the surface - the gloss makes the protruding parts even more protruding and makes the surface look like painted steel instead of plastic. You can add glossy varnish to the mixture to the paint, or blow it over the paint;
- The lower part of the tank hull can be covered with a simulated earth effect.
Weathering -an effect that gives any military equipment more realism. If done correctly, it helps to hide the "kosyachki" coloring, with inept handling or overdoing it spoils the appearance of the work and negates the result of the first stages of coloring. Weathering also focuses on small details of the model. To make the weathering realistic, the modeller must reproduce for himself the conditions in which the equipment was located (climatic and natural corrosion, historical and military).
Weathering stages:
- imitation of scratches and chips on the surface -manual application of wear with a piece of sprue with a slight bend at the tip. Then paint is applied to all the edges and corners of the models, preferably oil-based. The number and depth of scratches and chips depends on the background of the tank model, based on the historical context or a personally invented topic. However, the fenders should be much more scratched than the top of the hull and turret of the tank. For greater realism, in addition to the edges, you can scratch lightly, as a continuation of the tracks, and the surface next to it. It is better not to forget about the scratches applied along the hull, fenders, which appear from the passage of the tank over obstacles and debris. At the end of this stage, after thorough drying, you can go over the center of the scratches and cracks with a black slate pencil, however selectively, and not over all.
- imitation of dirt and dust -many modelers usually just take filtered earth, moss and water-acrylic paints with earth tones, mix in PVA and water and apply to the model. This is followed by a day-long drying. It is most logical to apply dirt to the bottom of the hull and track elements. The main thing is not to overdo it.
- wash -the wash applied in several layers helps to achieve a more realistic effect. The model is covered with a wash-off brush with a thin layer. Brush movements go in one direction: on vertical and oblique - from top to bottom, on horizontal - from the center to the edge. After applying the first layer of wash, you can take a wider brush and work on flat surfaces, and not just flow it into depressions and depressions. After a short drying time of 10-15 minutes, you can remove excess wash with a brush. You can also finish this step with a third layer on the bottom of the case.
- ov sweating e- brush bristles with a value of No. 00 trimmed, then light earth-colored paint is applied to it, then wiped off with a napkin. And using the "dry" brush method, go over the lower part of the body.
- fresh dirt and track installation.
It's time to master the technique of painting prefabricated models. For starters, we recommend taking a simple, inexpensive model with a low level of complexity, in which there are few small details. And for painting we will use acrylic paints as they are easy to use (diluted with water or alcohol, have almost no harmful smell). After assembling your chosen model, you need to proceed to the next step.
Preparation for painting
In addition to the airbrush, we will need:
- various brushes;
- acrylic paints (as they are convenient for example);
- several clean glass jars;
- syringe;
- pipette;
- napkins.
Before painting the surface of the model, it must be properly prepared. This is to keep the paint stronger. The easiest way is to wash the model in soapy water and dry.
Priming scale models
Due to the fact that we have chosen acrylic paints for painting, we need to prime the model. The Tamiya Surface Primer L (Gray) is perfect for these purposes. In order to use it, you need to shake the can for 7-10 minutes, take it aside the model and spray it at a distance of 20 centimeters, let it dry for 30 minutes.
Preparation before painting
Before applying paint to the surface of the model, it must be thinned to the consistency of milk. There is also paint that is already prepared for airbrushing. After paint, you need to tune the compressor. As a rule, experienced modelers recommend setting the pressure to 1.5-2.0 atmospheres. Pour paint into the reservoir and close the lid. Do some test sprays on paper. Make sure the paint runs evenly, without dripping or splashing.
Painting a scale model
Position the model so that it is convenient and accessible for you. A turntable is very suitable for this. If not, then use a newspaper in several layers. Sometimes it is convenient to hold the model in your hand when painting. Yes it is possible, but it is better to use a rubber glove for this. Firstly, you will not leave greasy spots from your fingers, and secondly, you will not touch with your fingers where you have already painted it and it is more convenient to hold it in a glove (it does not slip).
After positioning the scale model, take your pre-configured airbrush and apply a coat of paint evenly. The airbrush must be held perpendicular to the surface and constantly moved. First you open the air valve, then gradually add the paint a little. If suddenly you need to temporarily suspend the painting, then turn off the paint supply - the air supply remains open. Subsequent layers of paint are applied only after the previous layer has completely dried.
Keep in mind, this article does not describe the different ways of toning the model, but only describes the method of basic painting in one tone.
Finish painting
After you have finished painting the model, you must drain the remaining paint to the storage location and ALWAYS rinse the airbrush. An unwashed airbrush is a common cause of its breakdown!
Safety engineering
Acrylic paints are the safest in comparison with other types. But there is another fact - sometimes alcohol, ammonia and other solvents are present in the composition of paints. For this reason, it is recommended to paint the model in a well-ventilated area.
Attention! If you smell paint, then you breathe it in vapors, take protective measures (change or ventilate the room, use a respirator, etc.).
And in conclusion, I would like to say that working with an airbrush requires constant work with it. The more often you do this, the better your models will be painted. You can also find more information on the subject of painting scale models both on our website () and others.
>> >> Painting scale models for beginners
In the circle of novice modelers, it is not customary to paint the first model. Therefore, we will talk about the moment when you feel the need to fill the "mountains of plastic" with flowers and give them a varnished shine. Agree, decals alone are indispensable here, so we will consider the process of painting the models in detail.
What do you need first?
This is money, and a lot of money. It is necessary to consider the fact that the modeler spends a lot on his hobby, but the costs are fully paid off by the stunning aesthetics of the models and the pleasure of creating stunning models from a heap of plastic parts. Depending on the method of staining, you will need:
Paints or enamels
By the word "paints" we mean substances that are not so easy, and sometimes even impossible to wash off with water. They are applied once and for all, you should be especially careful with them. You either will not wash them off, or you will completely breathe in solvents. As for enamel, most of them can be easily washed off with solvents. On thematic forums, you will find a lot of advice from masters who are used to considering themselves "the ultimate truth." It is worth noting that you can find "your" paints and enamels by trial and error. Therefore, we do not recommend getting involved in disputes on the forums - they will only take away your energy and waste nerve cells.
What principles should be followed in the selection process?
Experimenting with all options is recommended. However, it is necessary to take into account the properties of paints and enamels. For example, nitro paints have a pungent odor and are not suitable for people with a particularly sensitive sense of smell; it is not recommended to use them in the presence of small children (up to 12 years old) in the room. In this case, pay attention to water-based and acrylic paints - they have a less pungent odor. Note also that the nitro paints mentioned above are easy to use, but they easily seep through transparent parts and are difficult to wash off hands after work.
When painting the lion's share of the models, you will need enamels or paints of the following colors:
- Silver
- Black
- White
These colors should be purchased first, the rest can be purchased depending on the models you are working on at the moment. The main thing is never to mix paints on different bases and enamels from different manufacturers - they may become unusable. As for the quantity, one can of enamel or paint, when painted with an airbrush, is enough for an average of 2 models. When working with a brush - for 1 model, when painting small parts and elements - for 9-11 pieces. It is better for a beginner to purchase classic paints in cans - they are suitable for working with a brush, and for painting models with a brush.
Priming
The mass applied to the surface of the model, which actually acts as a connecting material between the plastic and the paint (enamel). The material is selected individually, depending on the paints or enamels you use. It is important to take into account the peculiarity of nitro paints - when painting a model with a brush, it slightly eats into the plastic - in this case, you can do without soil. But when working with water-borne paints and enamels, the use of primer is mandatory. Otherwise, you will encounter adhesion - water will drip on the surface of the model, and you will not be able to achieve a uniform layer of staining. If you are working with an airbrush, the primer is always necessary - otherwise the paint will crack and will not fix evenly on the surface of the model.
Varnish
Varnishing the painted surface is essential to ensure the durability and usability of the model, as well as to give it a complete, maximum aesthetics. You will be able to wipe and wash products without fear of paint slipping and cracks. You are not ashamed to show such products to your friends, they look impressive and professional. Varnishes are usually subdivided into nitro- and water-soluble. So when using nitro paints, you should use nitro or acrylic varnish. When painting a surface with water-based paints, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of their structure and cover only with specialized varnishes recommended by manufacturers. Interestingly, paints, enamels, varnishes and primers are sold as aerosols that do not require a solvent and are easy to use. However, their cost is an order of magnitude higher than the price of classical materials.
Solvent
Needed for thinning and wiping off paints, enamels. Determining the choice is extremely simple: at the initial stages, it is recommended to use the products indicated on the packaging with coloring materials. As you gain experience, you will be able to experiment with solvents and find the most suitable ones yourself. However, all paint manufacturers produce specialized solvents (thinners) for them and it is unlikely that it will be possible to find something better (only if something is cheaper). If the paint is marked "diluted with water", then it is better to use boiled or distilled water - it does not contain minerals and other unnecessary impurities.
Washer
A power wash is a cleaner for brushes, tools, hands, work surfaces, and other items you get soiled. Do not confuse it with washes used in attempts to artificially “age” the model and add visual effects. Note also that it is better to wash off enamels with a solvent, but for paints (not water-soluble) it is worth using a technical remover. Cleaning should be done immediately after completion of work, without waiting for the paint to dry and harden.
Container
Usually the paints in the can are thick and must be thinned during use. The easiest way to do this is to use tin lids, in which you can mix paint and solvent. We do not recommend throwing the covers away after use - over time, they will not only come in handy again, but also make up a full-fledged palette with which you can select the desired shade for the executed models. Here you can re-mix paints with solvents. If a crack forms on the surface of the models, you can also re-dilute the residue in the lid and use it as a "repair material". Glass vials from under all kinds of medicines and products are also suitable for containers.
How to choose a painting method?
In general, all modelers are divided according to their preferences in choosing one of two types of painting models - with a brush or with an airbrush. Agree, it is not so important for you how and with what to paint, the main thing is to get a perfectly painted model. Therefore, for the first models, options made of colored plastic are suitable. After successful assembly, the initially colored plastic can be lightly decorated with patterns to your liking. And after the experience of successful assembly, you will be able to purchase unpainted plastic and saturate its surface with color on your own.
If your household is not against further experiments, we acquire a model that will need to be painted entirely. Next, we decide what we will paint - with a brush or an airbrush? The first method is difficult and economical. The second is more expensive and aesthetic. In the case of brushes, no other tools are needed, but for an airbrush you will need to purchase a compressor. Test your ability to paint evenly with a brush. To do this, take ordinary glass and try to evenly paint it on it, avoiding bubbles, streaks and other things. If possible, work with a brush. If all attempts are unsuccessful, opt for an airbrush.
You can also use special aerosol cans for painting, but do not forget that this method of painting is the most expensive. When choosing a method of painting with brushes, purchase tools. Do not skimp on buying brushes of different thicknesses, shapes, made from different materials. When choosing an airbrush - buy a compressor, do not forget to use a hood if necessary.
Assembling the model for painting
Remember the anecdote "All assembly instructions in Russian must begin with the phase" Well, broke it? " Break this myth, and carefully read the instructions and assemble the model in strict accordance with the recommendations. However, consider an important nuance: after the final assembly, it is no longer possible to paint over the product completely. Therefore, see in advance what parts should be painted before sticking on the next ones. So the figures should be painted completely, with the exception of weapons.
We also paint armored vehicles completely (body), separately before attaching we paint wheels, tracks, equipment, boxes and other elements, in particular, the interior decoration of the equipment. You can hardly reach the steering wheel with a brush after assembly - paint it separately. Take into account the individual design of each model, because in its essence it is unique and inimitable, estimate the scope of work in advance and experiment. The first pancake may not be "lumpy" if you calculate everything in advance.
Finishing work
In the process of finishing the model, take into account the sequence of stages of work, which in the end will allow you to get a truly beautiful, fully-fledged model. So, we present to you the algorithm.
Preparation
We take into account an important nuance: it is better to apply paint on a rough surface than on a perfectly smooth product. At the same time, we note that roughness always spoils the appearance of the model. Therefore, uneven surfaces are usually smoothed and polished before painting. Usually, a "skin" of granularity M-40 and less is used for this. Ideal polishing materials can also be found in model shops, but the cost is slightly higher than in the same market. The "skin" is moistened with water and begins to polish the surface, removing, among other things, traces of glue. Ideally, start with a coarse grain, gradually moving down to a finer grain. Continue polishing the surface until it is perfectly smooth. Note that a large number of elongated and protruding elements significantly increase the front of work, but you should not neglect their polishing.
Next, we prepare the parts directly for painting - we put them on a frame or other holders, where the elements will be in the process of painting and drying. The minimum number of models has a design that allows you to paint parts without cutting them off the sprues. Often, ordinary toothpicks, sticks and the same sprues are used as holders. The element is attached to the holder in such a way that it does not touch any surfaces. Mount to holder = Mount to model, so you can safely leave it unpainted. In the process of filling the first models with color, you can use the edge of the table as a support for the mandrel; in the future, we recommend equipping yourself with a special board with many holes, where you can attach several mandrels at the same time. Attention: after attaching the parts, do not touch it with our hands.
Degreasing the surface
For high-quality staining, it is necessary to degrease the surface in advance. In this case, you can use both special means for modelers, and simple dishwashing detergents and even gasoline. Alcohol is most often used - after degreasing it does not require drying the parts, while after using household chemicals, you need to rinse every part with water and dry thoroughly. During the degreasing process, never touch the part with your hands. If any parts (dust, hairs) get in, brush them off with a dry brush.
Primary primer
Let us remind you that a primer is necessary to securely attach the paint to the surface of the product. In the case of using nitro paints, it may not be necessary, however, when working with other paint materials, enamels, as well as when painting with a spray can or an airbrush, it is necessary to prime the model. In the process of priming, we apply protection to transparent parts (a simple masking tape is suitable), which we remove only after applying the last layer of paint or finishing varnishing. Then we evenly apply the primer to the surface. In case of unevenness, DO NOT ERASE it, but leave it as it is and wait for the primed parts to dry completely.
Intermediate sanding
Performed in case of an uneven surface as a result of the primer. We take the finest-grained "skin" and carefully grind the soil, removing all smudges, drops and bumps. Be careful and careful: if you get too carried away with sanding, then it is likely that some places will be erased "to plastic". In this case, the priming of the surface will have to be repeated.
Finishing primer
Intermediate sanding is always followed by a final primer. It allows you to cover overly "cleaned" areas with the composition, as well as create a perfectly flat surface. Be extremely careful: in the process of repeated, final priming, beginners and experienced modelers often again admit the formation of smudges and drops. An option is possible in which you did not allow any mistakes, but the surface still seems to be ribbed. If this happens, try sanding the primer again using a finer grit sandpaper.
Main tone
The basic tone is understood as the color of the largest area of the painted surface. It is determined according to the scheme, planning the color scheme in advance. At the same time, in the process of working with light colors (red, yellow, beige, blue and others), it is recommended to apply white paint to match the tone - this way the model will look much brighter. The main tone can be painted on the surface of the entire model (provided that you are not working with red). Usually several thin layers are applied - they look much better than one oily layer. When working with water-borne paints, it is recommended to cover each layer with a colorless varnish.
Camouflage
The process of applying camouflage is the most crucial moment in painting any model. In the course of it, you can either create the perfect aesthetics of the product, or completely ruin it. Note that the technique of drawing a pattern is different for all modelers and is developed in the process of painting many models. However, you should still adhere to a number of rules. So first, light tones are applied and only then - dark ones. Elements that do not need to be painted must be protected with simple masking tape or specialized fluids.
Finishing
At this stage, all protective tapes are peeled off (only after the paint is completely dry), the model is covered with a thin layer of varnish (if necessary) and it is also allowed to dry. Be careful: it is necessary to apply varnish at a time when all the protective coatings have not yet been removed. Further, again if necessary, various decals (decals) can be applied to the surface. Your model is finally ready. From now on, it will lay the foundation for your collection, or will become its worthy continuation. It remains to find a place where the model is located and proudly demonstrate it.
Conclusion
Summing up, we note that you should be patient and try to take into account all the recommendations given in this article. Believe me, the first model is not always perfect. A modeler is an extremely patient, diligent and really diligent person. Each model takes a lot of time and effort, for which it will fully reward you with its stunning aesthetics and believability. Be patient and go for it!
One of the important roles in the design of prefabricated aircraft models is painting. Sometimes for some scales of models, for example, 1:72, 1: 100, 1: 144, painting takes the main role and here the most important thing is to make the correct selection of paints and apply them with high quality, it depends on whether you emphasize the merits of the model or not. In this article, you will learn about the basic painting technologies.
Consider the two main methods of painting prefabricated aircraft models: painting the models with a brush and painting with a spray gun (airbrush).
Brush painting
This method is considered the easiest and most accessible to everyone, both beginners and experienced modelers.
Paints
The most common type of paint is nitro paint. But this paint has one big drawback - it is a very pungent and unpleasant smell. These paints are suitable for work areas with good ventilation.
The optimal paint for painting plastic models is alkyd enamels. These enamels have a good texture, they are evenly distributed in a thin layer, giving the surface of the aircraft model a shine, and also have a weak odor. The drying time of such enamels is from 6 to 12 hours, this factor depends on the thickness of the applied coating and the ambient temperature. To create a different palette, the desired shades, you should stock up on the basic six colors: white, black, red, yellow, silver and blue.
Brushes
.jpg)
Now let's consider the question, which brushes should be purchased for painting aircraft models? You will need different brushes: large, small, thin, round, flat. Here the choice depends on the model that you will paint, i.e. the smaller the model, the smaller the size of the brush, and, accordingly, vice versa.
You should choose brushes with even bristles, semi-rigid, hairy (for example, sable, badger, squirrel).
After each use, the brushes are cleaned with a paint solution, rinsed thoroughly with water and dried.
And let's move on to the very process of painting over the aircraft models.
1. Preparing the model for staining... To do this, wash the model in warm soapy water using a toothbrush to remove the greasy layer. Then we thoroughly dry the model, for this we leave it in an inaccessible place to minimize the ingress of dust and dirt on it. Or use a special degreaser.
2. Primer... Before applying paint to the surface of the aircraft, the model should be primed. This is done to smooth out various types of irregularities on the surface of the model, as well as to ensure that over time, your paint does not peel off the plane. The soil should be applied evenly to the model.
If, nevertheless, some irregularities remain after the priming, and they do not suit you, you should grind. The airplane model should be sanded with the finest sandpaper to avoid traces of the skin.
Then we repeat the priming process. The soil should be chosen in light colors - white or gray.
3. Dyeing... If, after priming and grinding the aircraft model, everything suits you, the surface is even, without potholes and cracks, then you can safely proceed to the painting process. One of the basic rules for applying paint to a model is to apply light tones first, and then dark ones. First of all, the lower parts of the model should be painted, then the upper ones. We paint over the upper parts of the model only after the lower ones are completely dry.
To achieve an even layer when applying paint, work in only one direction.
In order not to leave traces of brush strokes, you should dilute the paint so that it becomes more liquid and apply 2 - 3 coats to the model of the aircraft. It is worth mentioning that each subsequent layer of paint should be applied to the dried previous one.
4. At the end of the painting, leave the aircraft model to dry.
Airbrush painting
.jpg)
An airbrush is a tool designed to spray liquid paint with compressed air onto various surfaces.
Before painting airplane models, it is important to adjust the level of paint supply so that no smudges and dust build up on the object to be painted. If you are using an airbrush for the first time, you should, before painting on the most home-made model of an airplane, test the capabilities of the airbrush on any other unnecessary parts of the plastic.
For safety precautions, when using the airbrush, gloves and a respirator should be used.
So, here are the basic principles of airbrushing an airplane model:
- Before painting, the model must be thoroughly rinsed and dried.
- Then the surface should be sanded with sandpaper.
- The next stage is degreasing and drying the product.
4. After complete drying, the model should be primed and, if necessary, sanded again.
5. When painting an entire aircraft model, tape or masking tape to mirrors, headlights, glass, landing gear, etc. Apply the paint in one direction. After applying one coat of paint to the airplane model, let it dry for a few minutes, and then apply the next coat. After that, let the paint dry completely, leave it for 2 - 3 hours. Then we start painting the rest of the aircraft.
6. Complex drawings should be done using stencils. It should be borne in mind that with each subsequent layer of applied paint we use a new stencil.
7. After finishing the painting work, disassemble and thoroughly rinse the airbrush.
Summing up this article, I want to say that high-quality paint will come to you with experience. While doing this work, you should be patient, diligent and accurate - and the result will delight you!
