Hipped roof - design and device. The device of the rafter system of the hipped roof - installation options and construction rules 4 x pitched roof drawings

Complex roofs draw special attention to the architecture of the building. Four-pitched roofs are popular in the construction of country houses. Four slopes located in different planes give the dwelling a respectable look. Most often, slopes are made in different shapes: two of them are triangular and act as pediments, two are in the shape of a trapezoid.

Design advantages

The installation of a hip or hip roof, in addition to an aesthetic appearance, has practical advantages:

in the attic, surrounded by a roof on all sides, a comfortable temperature is maintained;
the structure of the rafters is strong and durable;
high resistance to wind and precipitation;
the space under the roof can be used for the attic.

Types of hipped roofs

Having a common basis, the subspecies of such coatings differ somewhat in execution:

- the classic version with two triangular hips and two trapezoidal slopes.
Half-hip - triangular slopes have a shortened shape, this design is performed for the equipment of the attic.
Hip - has the shape of a pyramid with triangular slopes. Suitable for a square building.

Design

The angle of inclination for the slopes is selected based on the recommendations of the manufacturers of roofing material and natural features. For a soft roll roof, an angle of up to 18 degrees is sufficient, an angle of 15-60 degrees is suitable for slate, and an angle of 30 to 60 degrees should be laid underneath.

The amount of precipitation in winter is of great importance, if there is a significant amount of snow, then it is better to choose steep slopes, on which precipitation lingers less.

When designing a rafter system, it is necessary to take into account a lot: the cross-section of the timber, the length of the rafters, the size of the run, the step of installing the elements. All possible loads on the roof are clarified at the design stage, they include:

weight of the selected roofing;
annual precipitation;
weight of insulation and waterproofing;
a device on the roof of various equipment (antennas, lights, windows, etc.);

In addition to the inherent loads, the roof of the house must have a margin of safety that guarantees the stability of the structure in an unforeseen situation. For the construction of the rafter system, timber and boards are used. If there is a need to strengthen the elements, the boards are doubled.

Before starting work, all lumber is treated with an antiseptic.

Sequence of work

Roof installation begins with fixing the supporting base - Mauerlat. This is a bar with a section of 150 × 150 mm, which is laid along the perimeter of the walls. Its horizontal placement is controlled by the level. The timber should not be at the edge of the wall, you need to leave a distance of 5–7 cm. The Mauerlat is fastened to studs embedded in the masonry, which are tightened with nuts. This beam allows you to connect the rafter system and the walls of the house into a common structure.

For the installation of the racks, you will need a floor or floor beams. These elements are made of 100 × 200 mm beams or double planks. All supports are installed strictly vertically and are attached to the bed with a metal corner or plate. For a hip roof, the racks are installed in one line, a ridge girder is attached to them. When erecting a hipped roof type, the supports are placed diagonally, equal distances are laid from the corner. As a result, they form a rectangle on which the purlins fit. Fastening is done with corners.

The side rafters are installed after pattern processing. A thin board is taken as a workpiece, applied to the girder and the gash is noted. The second end rests against the Mauerlat and the lower gash is outlined. The required number of rafters is prepared according to the template and installed with the selected fastening step, it can be from 60 cm to 1 meter. With the girder and the base, the connection is made with staples or self-tapping screws.

Oblique rafters with a ridge run form the angle of inclination of the slopes. These rafters are placed diagonally and carry an additional load, so they use double boards. The rafters are washed down according to a template, their length takes into account the overhang of 50 cm. In the upper part, the rafters are connected with a crossbar to give strength. When installing a hipped roof, the rafters are connected in the ridge knot with the help of puffs. The rafters are installed at an angle of 90 degrees and are certainly connected to the walls with wire clamps.

Short rafters or rafters are attached to the diagonal rafters. They are of different lengths, but must be parallel to each other. Narodniks, together with ordinary rafters, form side slopes. For the tent model, the installation of the cribs and the fastening of racks, struts and trusses is also the final stage of construction.

To relieve the load from the diagonal rafters, trusses are installed under them. These are vertical supports that rest on the beds. The side rafters are secured with struts. One of the horses of the board rests on the bed, and the second is cut off at 45 degrees and attached to the rafter leg.

Lathing and insulation

Completing the construction of the roof will allow its insulation with basalt wool or foamed polystyrene. The material is laid between the rafters. Protection of the roof from moisture will be provided by a layer of waterproofing. The dimensions of the lathing depend on the type of roofing, soft tiles look attractive on the hip type, they need a continuous lathing.

Watching a video explaining the nuances of installing rafters will help to conduct the construction correctly.

Video

See how the rafter system is installed:

A hipped roof is considered to be a rather complex and material-intensive structure, which few homeowners undertake to build with their own hands. But if you decide to build on your own, first go through the preparatory path - study the theoretical materials, including those set forth in this publication. Then assemble a small-sized model of the truss system in order to deal with the nodes, the nuances of their manufacture and the calculation of the amount of timber. So, we propose to take the first step and consider ...

Design features

This type of roof structure shown in the photo is a regular ridge roof, but without vertical gables. Instead of them, 2 additional slopes are made on the sides of the building - hips with a different slope angle.

Reference. If all 4 planes are tilted at the same angle, then you get a different type of roof - hip roof. Since its slopes converge at one point in the form of a dome, the ridge is absent as such.

The rafter system of the hip roof consists of the following elements (shown in the diagram):

mauerlat, bed - a powerful strapping beam mounted on the upper plane of the walls along the perimeter of the building and internal partitions;
roof slopes are formed due to inclined beams, installed at a calculated interval, - rafter legs;
together with the stiffening elements - puffs, uprights and braces - the rafters form roof trusses;
ridge girder - a bar connecting the upper points of the trusses;
in some designs, the lower part of the rafter legs is lengthened by an additional part - the filly.

Hip rafters are installed along the line of convergence of the planes, resting on the corners of the building. Their slope coincides with the angle of the main slopes. But the end rafter legs, called rafters, form steeper or gentler slopes on the sides of the house.

When building 4-pitched roofs, 2 types of trusses are used - hanging and layered. In the first, the lower belt (tightening) relies only on the external fences of a private house, therefore it is irrational to put them on too long spans due to the increased consumption of materials for stiffening ribs. For the device of the hanging truss, see the drawing:

The advantage of layered structures is the ability to lean on a capital interior partition and overlap large spans without increasing material consumption. Roofing beginners should pay attention to these trusses, as they are more reliable and easier to install.

If it is planned to arrange a residential attic on the attic floor, then the slope angle of the main slopes increases, and the farm receives 2 supports in the form of racks that form the walls of the room. It is customary to put these details on the beds or floor beams of a wooden house. The ceilings of the attic room are formed thanks to horizontal ties connecting the rafters on top, as done in the diagram:

Hip roof device step by step

Like any serious structure, a hip roof is erected with your own hands in several stages:

Creation of a project with the analysis of load-bearing structures.
Logging and other roofing materials.
Installation of the rafter system.
Laying the coating with insulation (if necessary).

Design advice. So that you do not have to worry about the reliability of the building, it is strongly recommended to entrust the design work to engineers, regardless of financial costs. They will calculate all the parameters - the step of installing the rafters, their cross-section, the number of struts and puffs in accordance with the weather conditions in your area.

Above, as an example, a drawing of a four-pitched roof with layered trusses covering 2 spans of 4.5 m is shown. The length of the main rafter legs is 6 m, the height of the ridge is 4 m, the angle of inclination is 41 °. This structure can be taken as a basis if the width of the building does not exceed that indicated in the drawing (9 meters). Consider an important point: the more the hips are tilted, the greater the load is experienced by the women and the central ridge knot where they rest. In this example, the hips are best positioned at an angle of 45-50 °.

The most difficult thing in the construction of hip roofs is the correct installation of the splicing units for corner rafters with a Mauerlat and the upper chord of trusses in different structures. This is another reason to consult with the designers who develop the junction joints individually. So that you understand what is at stake, we present the drawings of the upper support unit, where the hip rafter leg is adjacent to the ridge.

Some designs do not provide for the manufacture and installation of a ridge run between trusses. Then the hip ribs are attached to a tightening and additional struts, as the drawing prescribes:

The lower support node of the leg on the Mauerlat and the splicing of the rafters looks somewhat simpler, although in reality it requires careful sawing of the boards at various angles, which is reflected in the diagram.

For a visual acquaintance with a more complex system, where the hip is combined with the bay window, we suggest watching the training video:

Selection of lumber

Before making a hip roof truss system, you should choose a high-quality and dried wood. In terms of price - quality, the most suitable option is a coniferous tree - spruce, larch or pine. Pronounced knotty, rot and traces of the vital activity of insects - pests are unacceptable.

We present the most "popular" sizes of lumber used for the phased construction of hip roofs:

main rafter - single board 50 x 200 mm or double 40 x 150 mm;
Mauerlat: minimum section - 100 x 150 mm, optimal - 20 x 20 cm;
wives - board 5 x 15 cm;
purlins - timber 50 x 150 or 50 x 200 mm;
struts, crossbars - a board with a thickness of 25 to 50 mm;
racks - a bar 5 x 10 cm.

A set of mounting plates and corners will also not be superfluous.

Note. If the design engineers calculate the roofing structures for you, they will also draw up a specification of all materials with dimensions.

Planks with a thickness of 25-32 mm are traditionally used for the crate for laying corrugated board or metal tiles, and 5 x 5 cm bars are used for the counter-lattice.

Installation of a strapping bar on walls

Unlike gable roofs, where the Mauerlat is installed on the side walls, the harness is made around the entire perimeter under the hips. The exception is frame, log and log houses, where the upper wall girder or the last tier of logs acts as a mauerlat. Then grooves are made in it, where the rafter legs are inserted, as shown in the photo.

On the walls of light cellular stone - aerated concrete and foam concrete - a reinforcing reinforced concrete belt is arranged before laying the piping. Mounting pins are embedded in it, onto which a strapping bar is subsequently put on. The step-by-step order of work looks like this:

Installation of panel formwork, binding of the reinforcement cage with embedded parts and pouring the belt with concrete mixture M200.
Waterproofing the concrete surface with roofing felt or bitumen primer.
Installation of a bar and its fixation on hairpins.

Mauerlat corner joints are made by cutting in half a tree. In the same way, the timber is built up in length if the standard size of 6 m is not enough. Also, horizontal struts are made in the corners or iron brackets are driven in, which do not allow the bars to disperse under the load of the main and hip rafters.

Advice. Be sure to treat all wooden parts with an antiseptic and flame retardant. One protects the wood from decay, and the second increases its fire resistance.

Assembling the rafter system

It is customary to install large roof trusses on site, because it will take twice as many workers to lift them from the ground. In wooden houses, the first step is to install all the ceiling beams, and temporary flooring is arranged along them. For the installation of a high ridge, scaffolding will also be needed.

The phased assembly of the hip roof construct is performed in the following order:

As with the construction of a gable roof, the first step is to place the central supports, where the ridge girder is attached.
Installation of the main rafters is carried out, which are cut from above and below at the desired angle. On the ridge, the opposite rafter legs are displayed in one plane and fastened with steel plates on self-tapping screws (yellow, not black). The beams are fixed to the Mauerlat with corners.
After installing the main trusses, tighten them with ledgers and struts according to the drawings, using bolts for fastening.
Install ribs - extreme hip rafters. Their connection with the ridge and strapping beam is carried out according to one of the above schemes.
Saw off and nail the beads to the frame. Each of them is cut at different angles, determined by measuring at 4 points (along each edge of the board).
If necessary, secure the filly to provide an overhang of 0.5 m, and hem the cornice with boards.

Advice. Since the ribs of the hips are long, they need to be extended and additional supports should be installed. Make the joint near the ridge, where the load on the roof is less, and mount the supports closer to the Mauerlat.

How the elements of the hip structure are attached in reality, see the following video:

Laying the topcoat

This final operation is carried out according to the traditional technology, which includes ventilation of the roof space and the installation of a waterproofing layer made of a diffusion membrane. The latter does not allow moisture to penetrate from the street into the attic, at the same time the film freely passes water vapor outside. The difference from the covering of ordinary gable roofs is one: along the fracture lines (on the ribs of the hips) additional cover strips are placed.

The covering material is laid in the following order:

The rafter system is completely covered with a diffusion membrane. The canvases are rolled horizontally with an overlap of at least 100 mm, starting from the bottom. The joints must be glued with tape.
The film is nailed to the outer edges of the rafters through 5 x 5 cm counter-lattice bars, which provide ventilation under the metal tile or other material.
Sheathing boards are nailed perpendicular to the direction of the rafter legs. The installation interval depends on the selected coating, and for soft tiles, the filling is continuous.
Roofing material and all fittings are mounted on the ends of the roof, as well as around ventilation and chimneys.

Note. The bars of the counter-lattice, nailed to the rafters, should not become an obstacle to the ventilation air. Therefore, they are specially shortened to a length of 2-3 m and nailed with a gap of 5-10 cm between adjacent elements.

Warming of the hip roof is done both during the installation of the coating and after it, the main thing is to assemble the correct "pie" shown in the diagram. In the first case, the mineral wool is laid on top, under the waterproofing, and in the second - from the inside.

Conclusion

It must be understood that the advantages of a hip roof over a gable roof are few. Firstly, it is a beautiful architectural solution, and secondly, it reduces the wind load on the side facades of a private house. But the homeowner will have to pay for this with increased consumption of timber and the complication of construction, and therefore time costs. Hence the advice: take your time with a decision and think carefully about the pros and cons. But if you have already undertaken, then make the roof with high quality, for yourself, without saving money on consultations with construction engineers.

Related entries:

Presentable appearance, reliability, durability - all this is a hipped roof, the drawing, calculation and installation of which, of course, is quite difficult to do on your own, but you can always turn to qualified specialists for help.

A noticeable advantage of hipped roofs is that in such buildings it is very convenient to equip attic floors. The premises are very comfortable and spacious, ideal for living in contrast to houses, for example, with gable roofs.

Currently, more and more buildings began to appear, made according to this plan. Plus a multi-pitched roof - the ability to use it on completely different buildings, from a bathhouse to a large private cottage.

Houses with hipped roofs look really solid and expensive, and therefore, you should not spare the time and money for its arrangement.

The main types of hipped roofs

There are no pediments (these are triangular ends of the facades of the building, bounded on the sides by two roof slopes, and at the base by a cornice) on such a roof, and the attic windows are placed in the slopes.

This roof is much more economical than a gable roof in terms of the cost of wall building materials, but the inclined ribs at the joints of the hips and frontal slopes require the installation of a very complex rafter structure and additional measurement and adjustment of the roofing material.

Slopes are often made with different levels of inclination, due to which the silhouette of a sloping roof is created.

Half-hip (Danish) design. It differs from the previous one by the presence of a pediment, which has a small hip at the top. Protection against wind loads at such a roof is provided by a ridge (the upper horizontal edge of the roof formed due to the intersection of two slopes). Most often, such a roofing device is found in regions with frequent strong winds.

Hip design. It looks like a pyramid: four triangular slopes, converging tops in one place. Such roofs do not have gables; they are erected on small buildings in the form of an equilateral polygon or square. Installation of a rafter system at such a roof is very difficult.

Creating a hipped roof project

Before starting work on the arrangement of the roof, it is necessary to design it, carry out calculations for the structure, and also create its drawing.

The project of a hipped roof provides that the slope of the slopes of such a roof can be in the range from 5 to 60 degrees. It depends on atmospheric loads, the purpose of the attic and the type of roofing materials used.

In areas with frequent and heavy precipitation, the slope of the slopes should be significant (from 45 to 60 degrees). In regions with strong winds and rare rainfall, the slope of the slopes is usually much less.

If the angle of inclination is approximately 5-18 degrees, the use of a roll cover is recommended; 14-60 - asbestos-cement sheets, roofing metal; 30-60 - shingles.

The height of the roof ridge is calculated using a trigonometric expression for right-angled triangles.

Calculation of rafters - the beginning of drawing up the entire project of the house. Their cross-section is determined depending on the expected load (weight of roof structures, roof pie, external influences), and the degree of inclination of the roof. With the help of calculations, the step between the rafters is also determined, their bearing capacity is checked.

The plan of the rafters of the hipped roof provides for which rafters it is advisable to use - layered or hanging. It also turns out if additional elements are needed: braces, tightening, etc.

If it happens that the standard parameters of lumber are not suitable for the future roofing, you can modify them. For example, you can lengthen the rafters or double the beams. You can also use glued or inlaid rafter legs (they are noticeably more powerful and longer than usual).

Impact of loads on the rafter system

The rafters are subjected to constant (the mass of the roof, battens, rafters, etc.) and temporary (wind, precipitation) loads. The main calculated parameter of the snow load, adopted in Russia for the middle lane, is 180 kg / m2. A snow bag can increase this figure to 400-450 kg / m2.

If the roof slope is greater than 60 degrees, the snow load is not taken into account.

The standard design value of the wind load for central Russia is 35kg / m2.

If the roof slope is less than 30 degrees, the wind correction is not taken into account in the drawing.

The load parameters are adjusted for local climate conditions using special factors. The total mass of the roof is calculated based on the amount of materials used and the total area of the structure.

The calculations include indicators of the payload on the system, if ceilings are suspended from the farms, water heating tanks, ventilation chambers, etc. are installed.

It is mandatory to calculate the strength of the rafters and the degree of possible deformation under various conditions.

Most often used as rafters: a rectangular beam with a section corresponding to the calculated loads, boards with parameters 5 × 15, 5 × 20 cm.

Most often, the choice is made on coniferous sawn timber (spruce, pine) with a moisture content in the range of 18-22%, treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

To increase the rigidity and stability of the geometry of the rafter system of the pitched roof, steel elements are sometimes introduced.

Installation and installation of the rafter system

Before proceeding with the installation, you need to select the necessary materials and tools. In addition, it would be nice to get a drawing of the entire structure on paper. Of the materials you will definitely need: thermal insulation (mineral wool, for example), waterproofing, vapor barrier, wooden beams, roofing material, wood for the lathing. Required tools: drill, screwdriver, hammer, nails, screws, level, tape measure, measuring stick, etc.

The scheme of a four-pitched roof assumes the presence of rafters, support beams, braces, and other elements necessary to impart rigidity to the entire structure.

Rafters with a cross section of 5 × 15 cm will add reliability to the structure. When shopping for lumber for rafters, do not choose wet, twisted, or severely flawed.

The roof is always installed from the bottom up. The first step is to lay the support beams (Mauerlat), on which the rafters are subsequently installed. So you get a lower frame, which should extend beyond the walls by 40-50 cm. It is not desirable that the bulging of the rafters from the edges of the walls exceeds the limits specified above, otherwise the object will look inharmonious.

Do not forget to check the correct installation with a building level.

If the building has wooden walls, support beams are not needed, since the upper crown of the frame will act as a Mauerlat.

After that, frame rafter legs are installed from each corner of the building, they are called diagonal (diagonal) legs. The upper parts of the rafter legs, if necessary, can be supported by a system of struts and struts. Their main task is to unload the rafters by redistributing the load along the inner walls or supporting pillars, and also to give the entire structure sufficient rigidity.

You should be very careful about the nodes for attaching the rafter legs to the Mauerlat. These are the main points that are responsible for the strength of the rafter system as a whole. The overhang of the hipped roof is adjustable by the length of the diagonal rafters.

A special table of coefficients with the ratios of length and laying of rafters for different slopes of the roof slope will help in the work. In one column, the coefficients for the intermediate are indicated, in the other - for the corner rafter legs.In order to calculate the required rafter length, multiply the laying by the coefficient. You can easily find such a table on the Internet.

In places where there are no load-bearing walls, the heels of the rafters can be placed on the longitudinal beams (side girders). In addition, a beam is mounted in the center, it is mounted on three supports: in the middle and at both ends.

If you have a large roof area, you cannot do without arranging truss trusses, which will take on part of the load from the rafters. Truss trusses need a tightening device on which they will be supported. Sometimes they can be attached to existing transverse or longitudinal beams.

The parameters associated with the height and degree of the roof slope are determined precisely by the height of the slanting rafters and the horizontal upper beam (ridge run).

After you have installed the rafter guides, proceed with the construction of the main frame. Fasten the inclined (rafters) rafters to the support beams, as well as to the ridge girder.

They should be installed in increments of 40-50 cm, no more. If the gaps are too large, the rafter system may not withstand the loads from the snow that has fallen. The diagram of the rafter system of a hipped roof must take this fact into account.

Fasten the inclined rafters together at a distance of about a meter from the upper rafter beam using boards with a cross section of at least 4 * 12 cm.

It is not necessary to select rafters strictly in length, because they will most likely have to be cut. The main thing is to make sure that they are not too short.

in order to reduce the likelihood of errors to a minimum, use not a tape measure for measurements, but a special measuring rod;
mark the centerline along the top trim of the end wall. After that, measure half the thickness of the ridge bar, draw a line for the placement of the first of all central intermediate rafters;
Align the end of the rail with the line for the placement of the rafter that you marked a little earlier. On the other end of the measuring rod, copy the line of the inner contour of the side wall (thereby you will lay the intermediate rafter). Transfer the line of the outer contour of the wall and the overhang of the roof to the measured rail;
to determine the future location of the second of the central rafters, move the measuring rail to the side of the wall, transfer the desired position of the rafter to it from the inner corner of the upper strapping;
repeat the entire algorithm of actions in each of the corners. By adhering to this diagram, you will determine the location of the ends of the ridge bar, as well as all the center intermediate rafters.

After installing the rafter system in accordance with the plan, they make a crate, vapor barrier, waterproofing, counter-lattice, as well as roof insulation.

The final stage of the construction of a hipped roof

After the installation of the entire structure, a hipped roof (like any other) provides for the creation of a lathing. For this purpose, wooden boards with a thickness of 50 or 40 mm are used. The main thing is that the material is of high quality and well dried.

Before the installation of the lathing, it is necessary to lay a film that insulates the roof from steam and moisture. This film is attached with a stapler. In addition, in no case should the thermal insulation, which should be equipped in the attic, be overlooked. Thermal insulation is necessary to maintain normal temperature conditions in the building. And after that, a four-pitched roof is installed.

And the last stage is the laying of the roofing. You are not limited in your choice, be guided by your own taste, material capabilities and design features of your roof. The main thing is to attach the material firmly enough, carefully so that rain cannot penetrate into the room through the joints, and the wind cannot tear off fragments of the roof.

The scheme of the rafter system of the hip roof is very complicated, as already mentioned more than once above, but you should not be afraid of it. The most important thing is to make all calculations and measurements correctly, and also not to be mistaken with the markup. Having thoroughly understood this once, you can easily repeat a similar construction. Of course, it will be quite difficult for one person to cope with the upcoming volume of work, so a couple of assistants will not hurt.

Many are attracted by the spectacular and non-standard look of the hipped roof. Therefore, the question of how to build a four-pitched roof correctly is constantly in the focus of attention of those who start building a roof or repair it. But I must admit, to build such a roof will have to make a little effort.

Everything in construction begins with planning the necessary actions, therefore, first, they give their outlines of how to make a hipped roof to paper.

Hipped roof project: calculation of all parameters

Before creating a project of such a roof, you will need to determine its shape, take measurements and calculate all the necessary parameters. They begin construction directly, already having in their hands a drawing of the construction of the future roof, on which all the required information will be marked in details - the angle of inclination of the hipped roof, construction, length, step, the order of assembly of rafters, the location and number of additional supporting parts, and more.

The key to the success of the construction of a hipped roof in an accurate and detailed plan, therefore, this stage can most likely be considered one of the most important.

The calculation of a hipped roof can be carried out using special programs posted on the Internet. But if you have not forgotten the basics of school geometry, you can do it differently - draw a prototype of your future roof on paper and use the simplest geometric shapes to calculate rafters, beams, the amount of material to cover and much more.

We start from the angle of inclination of the hipped roof

The theoretical one first determines the angle of inclination of the hipped roof, taking into account the characteristics of the climate of this zone, especially since the height of the hipped roof also depends on its value. According to the rules, for areas with heavy rainfall, the slope is increased (correspondingly, the consumption of all materials will also increase).

Having determined the slope, the next step mathematically deduces the height of the ridge, multiplying half the width of the span of the structure by the relative value (I take its value from special tables according to the angle of inclination). For example, for a 30 ° slope, the value of the relative value is 0.59, for a 25 ° slope it is 0.47.

Rafters of a hipped roof is a system consisting of two types of rafter trusses: typical trusses with ramps connected in the ridge, and lateral triangular rafters, abutting the upper point against the ridge. Thus, at the end points of the ridge, three rafters are joined: one central and two from the main slopes.

Quite simply, you can calculate the central location of the ridge of a four-pitched roof in the center: measure the length of the ridge, the length of the walls parallel to which it will be located, and calculate their difference. Dividing the difference in half, postpone the result from the edges of the parallel walls.

It is important that there is a right angle between the skate and the rails to automatically ensure that the corner skates are correctly positioned.

location of the skate in the center

The calculation of these parameters of the hip roof can be made easier if you first mark the joints of the walls and rafters. The attachment points for the side rafter triangles can be determined by dividing the length of the transverse wall in half.

Installation of a hipped roof: precision and strength

Roof installation begins with the installation of rafter legs and trusses, according to preliminary calculations and marks. Farms are harvested according to a template. Various additional elements help to achieve the rigidity of each of them, as well as the entire structure as a whole: headstock, struts, crossbars, sprengels with a rack, racks.

How to make a hipped roof will not be too difficult if you follow the finished project and follow the correct order of work performed.

Work begins with laying a paving or log Mauerlat structure (in the case of timber rafters) - a more common option in private construction. If you intend to use metal rafters, the Mauerlat is made of metal profile material. The Mauerlat is securely anchored to the walls using appropriate anchors.

It is important that high-quality waterproofing is provided between the base and the wall.

If necessary, a transverse beam is also installed, which will become a support for the racks and, accordingly, the ridge girder attached to them. When installing a ridge, it is necessary to strictly maintain its "horizon" and height, therefore, when installing it, it is imperative to use a plumb bob and a rail. Racks for the ridge are fixed with jibs.

By installing diagonal rafters, the planes of the slopes of the future roof are formed. The main requirement in this case is the exact same length of the rafters and a perfectly flat plane of each resulting slope. At the same time, the size of the overhang is also laid. Its average value is about half a meter.

In open areas where a strong gusty crosswind is possible, it is advisable to increase the size of the overhang (up to 1 m).

The insertion of elements in complex nodes requires special attention. For example, three elements are joined to the end of the ridge at once: diagonal rafters (2 pcs.), Central rafters (2 pcs.) And a central (ordinary) hip rafter (1 pc.). To perform this knot, a special undercut (double bevel) is made on the ridge bar.

At a further stage, angular rafters are mounted strictly parallel to the ordinary rafters. In this case, the beggars of the neighboring, main and hip, slopes should be docked with the rafter rafter in different places. For the joints of the "diagonals" with the rafters, a regular cut or support bar is used, which is sewn on both sides to the diagonal rafter.

Installation of a hipped roof also includes a lathing device for a roof covering. Whether it will be solid or sparse from boards, bars or poles depends on the chosen material for the roof.

Pitched roof structures are very often used in private houses. Their four-slope version is ideal for tall buildings, since the roof looks more compact and neat without a massive gable. The hipped roof structure contains many constituent elements. It can be both relatively simple and more complex due to dormer and dormer windows. But in the latter case, it looks more interesting and varied.

The four-pitched roof, in comparison with its two-pitched counterpart, better withstands wind loads, precipitation and protects the walls of the building well. Its design is more complex, but you can build such a roof yourself on a small house or gazebo. In the photo on the network, you can see how beautiful and harmonious the 4-pitched roof looks. She decorates both single-storey houses and higher buildings.

Before you make a hipped roof with your own hands, you need to decide on its type. There are the following types of such systems:

Hip construction It consists of two trapezoidal slopes and two triangular slopes called hips. The first two slopes are joined to each other in the skate. During installation, the technique of arranging layered rafters is used, as in a gable system, and nesting rafter legs from a 4-pitched system.
Half-hip design has the same structure, only the hip slopes are shortened. Below them is a pediment, in which large windows can be made to illuminate the attic or attic floor without losing the strength of the roof.
You can also build hipped roofs with your own hands if you make four slopes in the shape of an isosceles triangle. They converge at one point.
The hardest thing to build on your own hipped roof complex configuration with many valleys, gables, abutments and attic windows. In this case, it is better to entrust the construction to specialists, since only they will be able to correctly calculate the structure, execute its plan, diagram and assemble it on site.

Attention! In addition to the supporting roof frame, it is necessary to decide on roofing, waterproofing and thermal insulation materials, since different roof structures and slope slopes require the use of different materials.

Component elements

Since the device of a hipped roof is practically no different from a gable system, it consists of the same constituent elements, but with the addition of some additional details. A 4-pitched roof includes the following details:

Mauerlat. This is a wooden beam of square or rectangular cross-section, which is laid along the top of the external load-bearing walls, on which the rafters will rest. It absorbs all the loads and distributes it evenly for transmission to the walls. Houses with a hipped roof are made with a Mauerlat with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x100 mm.
The beds are internal support elements that are laid on the load-bearing walls inside the house or on the supports. The material and section of the bed is the same as that of the Mauerlat.
Rafters are divided into slant and side rafters. The latter of them form a trapezoidal slope, and the nipple ones are needed for hip slopes. Side rafters are not used in the hipped roof. The side rafters are assembled from a bar with a section of 5x15 cm, and the diagonal ones are 10x15 cm. The optimal pitch of the rafter system is 800-900 mm, but it can be less or more depending on the selected roofing and the design features of the roof.
Racks are needed to support the frame of the four-slope structure.
Ridge run- a horizontal element that simultaneously connects the rafters and serves as a support for them. The pitched roof structure does not have a ridge. It is better to make it from a bar with a section of 150x100 (50) mm.
Puffs are a horizontal element that connects paired side rafters, preventing them from moving apart. Material - board with a section of 5x15 cm.
Narodniks are shortened rafters that are attached to the diagonal leg. They are made from a board measuring 150x50 mm.
The struts are special struts that increase the strength and load-bearing capacity of the roof.
The filly are elements that form the overhang of the roof and are attached to the rafters from below. It is made from a bar with a section of 120x50 mm.

When arranging a more complex 4-pitched roof, the drawing and structural diagram may contain other additional elements, for example, cornices, protective strips, additional lathing, etc. In order to accurately calculate the required amount of material, it is necessary to perform a sketch or drawing to scale, and carry out all the necessary calculations on it.

Important: the material of all the constituent elements of the roof is coniferous wood of at least grade 2 with a moisture content of no more than 15%.

Installation sequence

We will study how a hipped roof is made with our own hands using the example of the simplest hip structure. The step-by-step process of installing the constituent elements of the roof looks like this:

To transfer and evenly distribute the load from the roof frame, snow and the roofing itself, Mauerlats are laid on the load-bearing walls. The bars are fixed to the enclosing structures by means of anchor pins, which are laid even at the stage of wall erection. If the house is built of wood, then the last crown of the log house plays the role of Mauerlat. The Mauerlat timber is necessarily protected from brick, concrete and stone walls by means of waterproofing. To do this, it is wrapped in two layers of roofing material.
The beds are laid on the load-bearing internal walls. They are needed where racks are provided in the rafter system. If the house does not have internal load-bearing walls or they are in the wrong place, then reinforced beams must be provided under the racks, which perform the functions of floors. As a rule, the beams have a section of 20x5 cm, so the supporting elements are increased to a section of 20x10 cm.
After that, they begin to install the racks on the supporting beams or beds. The racks are leveled or plumb and temporarily fixed by means of supports from the boards. For reliable fixing of the rack, metal corners or steel plates are used. For a simple hip system, you will need one row of posts centered directly under the ridge. The step of the racks is not more than 2 m. When arranging a hipped roof, the racks must be installed under the diagonal legs at the same distance from the corner of the house.
Next, girders are placed on the installed racks. With a conventional hip system, this run is the ridge. At a hipped roof, all girders form a rectangle with a smaller perimeter than the house itself. All girders in this design are fastened with metal corners and self-tapping screws.
Now you can start installing the rafter legs. In this case, the installation of side rafters in a simple hip system is performed in the following sequence:

A board (150x25 mm) along the width of the rafters is applied to the ridge at the installation site of the extreme rack and a template is made. On it, they mark the upper cut (the place with which the rafter leg will rest on the skate) and cut it out.
Next, the template is applied to the ridge and the bottom cut is cut (the one with which the rafter element will rest on the Mauerlat beam).
After that, the finished template is applied to the ridge at the place where the rafters are installed and the need for adjustment for each rafter element is checked.
The rafters are marked out and the recess is cut out according to the template.
Now the rafter legs can be installed and fastened to the Mauerlat and the ridge bar. For fixation, metal corners and self-tapping screws or staples are used.

You can learn more about the installation of the rafter system of a hipped roof from the proposed video:

For the manufacture of diagonal reinforced rafters, you can use two spliced boards of a conventional side rafter. A template for diagonal legs is made in the same way. The upper part of these elements rest on the rack, and the lower part - on the corner part of the Mauerlat. That is why the cuts should be done at 45 degrees.
Further, between the two diagonal rafters, the beads are installed. The step of installing these elements is equal to the step of installing the rafters. The upper part of the wrist rests on the diagonal leg, the lower part - on the Mauerlat. Washed down on the upper part of the handles in half of the elements is done in a mirror image. The bottom cut is usually performed locally. After the installation of the element, an overhang is formed, which is aligned with the stretched cord and cut.
The constructed rafter system does not yet guarantee the reliability of the roof. Since the diagonal legs have the maximum load, additional racks must be installed under them - springs. They must be supported by reinforced floor beams.
Under the side rafter legs, struts are installed, which with their lower edge rest on a bed or a floor beam, and their upper edge should abut against the rafter at an angle of approximately 45 °.
A do-it-yourself hipped roof can be made with any roof covering, for example, from ondulin, corrugated board, metal tiles, flexible tiles. But it is worth remembering that under a soft coating you need to make a continuous crate of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. If you plan to make an attic floor, then it is necessary to lay insulation between the rafters, and hem everything with a vapor barrier from below. If the attic is cold, then only the floors are insulated. Waterproofing must be laid under the roofing and a ventilation gap is made.