How to build drywall walls. How to properly sheathe walls with plasterboard - technology and stages

A popular way to divide the space of an apartment or room into parts is to build, filled with mineral wool and sheathed with gypsum board, that is, plates with a gypsum core, pasted over with durable construction cardboard. This is a fairly simple system that you can install yourself. Like profiles?

All about the installation of drywall partitions:

Which drywall is right

First of all, you need to choose materials suitable for your tasks.

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For finishing city apartments and country houses, the following types are used:

• Normal. It is designed for rooms where the water vapor content in the air is 30-60%.
• Moisture resistant, which is easy to recognize by the characteristic green color of the cardboard. It can be used for rooms with humidity up to 75%, primarily in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen.
• Flame retardant, fire and moisture resistant, shock resistant. These are specialized products that are less commonly used in private homes. Meanwhile, shock-resistant material is a good choice for rooms where there is a possibility of mechanical impact on the walls - for children, corridors. It is also suitable for supports on which heavy furniture is planned to be hung.

Dimensions of plasterboard

On sale you can find sheets with the following parameters (mm):

• Width 600 or 1200
• Length from 2000 to 4000
• Thickness 6.5; eight; 9.5; 12.5; fourteen; 16; eighteen; twenty

The size popular with consumers is 1200x2500, since larger products are more difficult to transport and move on site. Experts recommend taking plates with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm for cladding in order to ensure the rigidity and strength of the structure. Thin products are more easily damaged, they insulate sound worse and you can't even hang a light shelf on them.

Calculation of the number of layers

The frame is sheathed on each side with one, two or three layers of sheet material. The larger, the stronger and more rigid the structure and the better its sound insulation properties - due to its massiveness. But the higher its cost. Therefore, the optimal solution for a living space is two layers on each side of the structure.

Calculation of the number of sheets

How many slabs will you need for finishing? The calculation is simple: we calculate the total area of ​​the interior wall on one side, without openings. If the cladding is done in one layer, then the resulting value is multiplied by two (after all, the wall has two sides). If in two layers, then four. We divide this figure by the area of ​​one gypsum board. For example, for a product with a size of 2500x1200 it is equal to 3 m 2. Do not forget about the margin, its coefficient depends on the size of the room. When its dimensions are less than 10 m 2, it is 1.3, when less than 20 m 2 - 1.2, when more than 20 m 2 - 1.1. The figure obtained earlier is multiplied by this coefficient, rounded up to the nearest whole and we get the required number of plates.

How to choose the dimensions of the profiles

Partitions are built from - horizontal (guides) and vertical (rack). They are U-shaped, made of galvanized steel. Their parameters (mm):

• Section of guides -50x40, 75x40, 100x40, rack-mount - 50x50, 75x50, 100x50.
• Length - 3000, 3500, 4000.
• Thickness - from 0.5 to 2.

The size of the product is chosen based on the planned loads, sound insulation requirements, etc. Please note: the rack must fit snugly into the rail. For example, for a horizontal element with a section of 50x40, vertical sections of 50x50 are suitable.

Often, to save the area of ​​the apartment, the wall is made only 7-8 cm on a frame made of galvanized steel profiles 50 × 50. Such a system is highly susceptible to vibrations, and mineral wool 0.5 cm thick is not enough to comply with building standards for sound insulation (41 dB).

The system should be assembled from 50 × 70 or 50 × 100 elements. You can also use dry, knot-free wood blocks - some experts think this option is even better in terms of airborne sound insulation.

In addition, the thickness of the profile is also important. For the inner wall, choose structures of at least 0.6 mm. If you use thinner parts, then when fixing the plates, the self-tapping screws can scroll, which reduces the strength of the structure. Products are already on the market, but they have insufficient rigidity and therefore should not be used. Otherwise there is a risk of sagging.

What materials and tools will be needed

Materials (edit)

1. Sound absorbing mats - usually made of (stone fiber)
2. Damper (sealing) tape
3. Dowel-nails
4. Wedge anchor
5. Self-tapping screws with a press washer
6. Self-tapping screws (self-tapping screws) with countersunk head
7. Acrylic primer
8. Gypsum or polymer putty
9. Reinforcing paper tape

How to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands

Plasterboard installation can be carried out only after the completion of all "wet" works at the facility. If the air in the room is abundantly saturated with moisture, then the slabs will absorb it and may deform.

In addition, it is not recommended to start installation immediately after the delivery of the gypsum board to the facility. After all, they were stored, most likely, in a damp, unheated room. If in a heated room they are immediately placed vertically and fixed on the base, they will begin to dry unevenly, which is fraught with their curvature and the appearance of cracks on the surface of the wall. It is worth waiting at least 24 hours (or better - 3-4 days), placing the material in a horizontal position, and only then proceed to the main work.

Markup

The first stage is the marking of the project location. It is performed using a laser level or a ruler in combination with a dyeing line. First, mark the place for the partition and the doorway on the floor. Then, using a laser device or a plumb line, the contour of the structure is transferred to the walls and ceiling.

Installing the guides

• Ensure that the rails fit snugly against the base.
• Prevent the spread of vibration from the construction of the house, improving sound insulation.

The horizontal beams are fixed to the floor and walls with dowel-nails 6x40. The distance between the fasteners is no more than 100 cm (optimal - about 40 cm), moreover, at least three dowel-nails should fall on one guide. The holes for them are made with a perforator. Nails are driven in with a screwdriver or, with experience, with the same perforator. They are recommended to be fixed to the ceiling with wedges in pre-drilled holes.

You can cut the frame parts with metal scissors (mechanical, electrical) or an angle grinder. But be extremely careful. Burrs after cutting with scissors, as well as protruding heads of self-tapping screws, can cause unevenness. Meanwhile, the structure is not designed for plastering, and the putty manages to "remove" small bumps and pits. At the same time, continuous puttying will significantly increase the complexity of the work.

Erection of racks

Usually, the step of vertical supports is 60 cm.In the case of a high design load on this wall or ceiling heights of more than 4 m, the step is reduced to 40 cm.It is possible to increase the rigidity in this way: make a stand of two profiles, installed with their ends to one another and fastened with press washers ... It can also be strengthened by horizontal bridges. Vertical supports should be 1 cm less than the height of the room - for ease of installation and to compensate for possible shrinkage of the building. If the product is shorter than necessary, it is lengthened. To do this, one element is pushed onto another with an overlap of at least 50 cm and connected with self-tapping screws. In the frame, the overlap places are staggered to prevent weakening of the structure and, as a result, the appearance of cracks.

Some craftsmen fasten vertical and horizontal beams with self-tapping screws with press washers. It is not right. The hats will be facing the room, they will bulge and interfere during the sheathing, which ultimately will negatively affect the reliability of the entire system. Alternatively, you can fasten the guides with self-tapping screws before completing the assembly of the base. And then immediately before finishing the gypsum board, twist them in stages. But this will increase the installation time.

The optimal solution is a cutter. He will connect the parts using the punch-down method. Such fasteners do not interfere with subsequent installation. We add that the vertical supports must be leveled before fixing.

A technical mistake is the absence of cushioning layers between the partition and the main walls, ceilings. In this case, structural noise is transmitted to it. It is advisable to fasten the guides to the walls, ceiling and floor through elastic spacers (made of porous rubber, cork, polyethylene foam), which will dampen vibration, make the structure more airtight and thereby help increase the level of acoustic comfort in the rooms. In a new building, seams filled with elastic material compensate for shrinkage deformations of building elements.

Creating a doorway

Most often it is performed using standard profiles, inside which wooden bars are placed for reinforcement. You can also connect two posts in a box or install a special profile element 2 mm thick, which has increased strength and is suitable for massive ones. Above the opening, a horizontal lintel is provided from a cut frame part. The jumper is set in level and fixed to the racks with self-tapping screws.

An important point: you need to mark the places for the racks so that later the joints do not fall on the vertical beams that frame the opening. Otherwise, there is a risk of cracks around it.

Soundproofing and communications

Holes for electrical wiring are cut in the racks even before installation. Cables are pulled in corrugated pipes. Holes in the gypsum board for socket outlets are made with metal crowns - attachments for a screwdriver.

The space between the posts is filled with sound-absorbing mats or rock wool rolls. They are chosen based on the width of the frame.

As for the choice of rolled mineral wool, a product with a density of at least 40 kg / m 3 is suitable. Cotton wool of lower density cakes and settles over time.

Sheathing

When performing it, the following rules must be observed:

• Use self-tapping screws of the required length. The calculation is as follows: length = sheet thickness + profile + 1 cm (by this amount, the fasteners should go into the metal part). That is, for a single-layer sheathing of 12.5 mm, self-tapping screws with a length of 2.5 cm are used, for a two-layer sheathing - a length of 3.5 cm.
• When screwing in, the screws must be sunk into the gypsum board strictly by 1 mm. If you do not tighten them, then they will become an obstacle during puttying. If you twist them, they can damage the core of the product, and the fastening will be unreliable. A cheap way to set the desired depth is a stop bit for a regular screwdriver. Professionals, on the other hand, prefer a screwdriver with a limited screwing depth.
• The step of installing the self-tapping screws is no more than 25 cm. To prevent the plate from crumbling, they must be screwed in at a distance of at least 1.5 cm from its end edge and at least 1 cm from the longitudinal one.
• Often, the height of the structure is greater than the length of the gypsum board. Then, with a single-layer cladding, vertically adjacent slabs are joined on an additional lintel. Moreover, horizontally adjacent ones are mounted with an offset of 40-60 cm. When finishing in two layers, the jumpers can be neglected, but the elements of the second layer should overlap the joints of the first one and be spaced apart from each other.
• To avoid the appearance of cracks, you need to leave a gap between the plates and the floor of at least 1 cm. A small gap is also left on top, and a separating tape can be glued at the junction of the sheathing to the ceiling.
• Drywall is cut with a special hacksaw or a construction or office knife. When working with a hacksaw, there will be dust and the cut will be sloppy. And when using a knife, it is neat and dust-free. However, it is impossible to remove the edges from the sheets at their joints with a knife (as required by the installation technology): the cut will be uneven. The edges are removed with a special plane with an angle of 22.5 °. This allows you to make a joint of materials at 45 °. If it is necessary to level the edge of the cut layer, a roughing plane is used.
• The doorway is first completely closed with a cladding, which is then cut off along the uprights and the lintel - it is easier to ensure the desired geometry. Thus, the upper part of the opening is always formed by L-shaped elements to prevent cracking.

Redevelopment of your own home does not arise from scratch. They appear among apartment owners along with the desire to divide the living space with the help of partitions and internal walls. The stimulus for adapting diverse premises for the tasks of comfortable living can be heterosexual children, the profession and even hobbies of family members, as well as the housing itself, acquired in the form of a single concrete box.

It is clear that in one article you cannot tell about all the ways of dividing space - there are a lot of them. But it's a sin not to tell about one of them, if only because detailed instructions on the construction of a drywall partition will help everyone who wants to master the skills of building light, durable and reliable structures.

• Preparation for work;
• Floor, wall and ceiling markings;
• Installation of guide profiles - PN (UW);
• Installation of uprights from rack-mount profile - PS (CW);
• Installation of lintels (door and window openings);
• Sheathing of the frame with GKL sheets on one side;
• Laying of the necessary communications: electric cable, pipelines;
• Laying (in the inter-rack space) and fastening of thermal insulation;
• Sheathing of the frame from the back side;
• Finishing work.

Try to leave behind all the wet processes associated with the preparation and use of mortars at the beginning of work, and clean the installation area of ​​the future partition of debris, slugs of solution, foreign objects and protect it from a sharp temperature drop.

If you have a flat screed and well-plastered and plastered walls - consider yourself lucky - this is the ideal base for mounting a metal frame.

2. Materials and tools

In order not to be distracted by shopping trips in the process of work, we stock up on the following materials:

• Guide profile (for fastening the structure to the floor and ceiling);
• Rack profile (for vertical installation as the main bearing element);
• Wall plasterboard 12.5 mm (for single-layer frame cladding);
• Dowel-nails (for fastening the frame to a concrete and brick base);
• Self-tapping screws for wood (for fixing the profile to a wooden base);
• "Bugs" or "seeds" (for fastening frame elements);
• Wooden beam (to strengthen the frame in the places where door frames are installed);
• Sealing tape;
• Plaster based putty;
• Acrylic primer.

Types of profiles for plasterboard partitions:

For material consumption, we turn to the online calculator. Input data: the length of the partition, its width and the number of sheathing layers.

We get the following instruments:

• Level (bubble or laser);
• Roulette;
• Plumb line (for transferring marks from the floor to the ceiling);
• Marker or pencil;
• Rope;
• Screwdriver;
• Perforator with a drill (in the presence of reinforced concrete walls or ceilings);
• Metal scissors;
• Hammer (for driving spacer nails);
• Construction knife.

3. Marking the partition

The profile will need two types: MON and PS... The first is cut with metal scissors and attached to the floor and ceiling. Before cutting and installing it, the floor is marked. It is marked on it: the design wall thickness (according to the pieces of cardboard attached to the profile), the binding of the racks, window and door openings. Between the pillars of the doorway, a rupture of the guide profile is provided.

The partitioning methods are given below:

3.1 Marking perpendicular (90 ° angle)

Most often, a plasterboard partition is erected perpendicular to the existing wall, so it becomes necessary to draw a line at an angle of 90 °.

This task can be accomplished in several ways, which we will consider in detail below.

a) Egyptian triangle method

Egyptian triangle is a triangle with an aspect ratio of 3: 4: 5. It is very important that the Egyptian triangle always has a right angle. For example, a triangle with sides of 15 cm, 20 cm and 25 cm is Egyptian and, accordingly, rectangular.

In order to lay the perpendicular, we need to build an Egyptian triangle, one of the legs of which will lie on the load-bearing wall. An example of construction is shown below:

In the picture above, a triangle with sides: 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5 m is used. You may find it more convenient to build a triangle of larger or smaller sizes. The main thing is to grasp the essence: we take a certain conditional length of the segment, for example, 0.5 m, then we multiply this number by 3, 4 and 5, and thus we get the lengths of the sides of our triangle: 1.5 m, 2.0 m and 2.5 m.

We carry out the construction: we put the point "A" - the base of our perpendicular, then after 1.5 m we put off the point "B" on the tape measure. From point "B" we draw an arc with a radius of 2.5 m, for this you can use a nylon rope and a pencil, and from point "A" we similarly draw an arc with a radius of 2.0 m.

The point of intersection of the arcs - "C" will be the third vertex of the Egyptian triangle. The AC segment will be perpendicular to the AB segment, and, accordingly, the bearing wall. Then, using a metal profile or a nylon cord, you can extend the AC line to the opposite wall. Accordingly, straight line AD will be perpendicular to the bearing wall, which is what we need.

b) Perpendicular using a square

This method is less accurate than the first. This is due to the fact that the square is small and any unevenness in the wall can affect the final result.

For marking, we apply a square with the short side to the supporting wall, and draw a line along the long one, then this line is extended to the opposite wall.

This method is suitable for flat walls and small marking areas.

c) Perpendicular with a tape measure

Set aside equal segments from the existing wall, as shown in the picture above. This method is also not completely accurate, as existing walls may be flawed and not perpendicular to each other. However, you can combine the methods, and check the perpendicular obtained using a tape measure with a square.

3.2 Transferring marks from floor to ceiling

After marking the base of the partition, it is necessary to transfer these marks to the ceiling. There are also several ways to do this.

a) Using a plumb line

This method is clearly demonstrated in the figure below. The more points you transfer from the floor to the ceiling, the more accurate the final result will be. Draw a line through the transferred points using a profile; it is also very convenient to use a dyeing (chopping) cord.

b) Using the bubble level:

With the bubble level, you can only transfer the extreme points located near the walls. The method is less accurate than using a plumb line.

4. Marking a plasterboard partition using a laser level

Above, we examined ways to mark up a plasterboard partition using the most available tools. However, if you have a laser level in your arsenal, then it can replace both the plumb line and the bubble level and the method of the Egyptian triangle.

Laser levels come in various modifications, but as a rule, they are able to build three mutually perpendicular planes. The projections of these planes are reflected in the form of a beam on the walls, floor and ceiling.

These beams are used for marking and further installation of the profile. An example of marking a partition using a laser level is presented in the video:

After marking the partitions, proceed to the installation of the guide profile.

5. Installation of the guide profile (PN)

Before mounting the guide profile, a sealing tape is glued to its back surface. It is designed to soften the vibrations of the metal structure, damp sound vibrations, and increase the noise-absorbing properties of the frame:

PN-profile with a glued sealant, it is aligned along the marking line and fixed to a wooden (or concrete) base using self-tapping screws (or a nail dowel) with a pitch of 500 mm. Holes in the floor and ceiling are drilled directly through the profile.

The profile is cut with metal scissors:

Over time, 3 finishing layers will appear along the edges of the frame: plasterboard sheathing (12.5 mm thick), as well as a layer of putty and finishing, which will increase the overall thickness of the wall. This feature of the construction of a single-layer partition must be taken into account when marking and tying the wall to the floor plan.

6. Installation of rack-mount profile (PS)

Racks are made from PS profile length 3000 or 4000 mm. Due to the ribbed surface and curved edges, it has greater bending stiffness. Its width in the structure of the partition depends on the height of the room being repaired, the weight of wall objects and gypsum boards.

In kitchens, corridors and hallways (in rooms with high traffic), a stronger profile with a width of 75 or 100 mm is installed. A pair of such racks (PS-100) can withstand a door weighing up to 30 kg. When installing more massive structures, the UA profile is used - a reinforced version of the rack-mount profile with a thickened wall. When installing the UA-profile, the maximum permissible door leaf weight is increased to 70 kg.

The vertical posts are fixed at the edges of the guide profile. They are cut so that a damping gap of 10 mm is formed between the tops of the supports and the ceiling profile, designed for the shrinkage of the building.

Be prepared for the profile bending at the cut points. In case of deformation of the support legs, take pliers in your hands and trim their edges.

After cutting, each of the racks is attached to the lower profile, and then, as a support on the hinge, is tucked into the upper guide with its free end, vertically aligned and screwed to the PN profile using self-tapping screws.

In a similar way, ordinary posts and posts are installed that form the base of the doorway. The difference in their installation is as follows: the former, as a rule, obey the standard pitch of 400 or 600 mm (since the width of the drywall sheet is 1200 mm), and the latter are installed directly in place and tied to the width of the doorway.

The marking of the axes of the ordinary racks starts from the edge of the wall. From it to the center of the first rack (when they are aligned and installed, the tail of the tape measure can be hooked onto the edge of the guide profile) and the central axes of the other supports are set aside 600 mm each. When the bevel of the outer sheet is cut off, the distance to the first column is reduced to 550 mm.

In the case of an increased load on the frame (when facing the wall with tiles, hanging heavy cabinets, boilers, heating radiators on it), the distance between the racks is reduced to 400 mm, remaining a multiple of 1200 mm.

With the above steps of the frame racks, the drywall sheets are joined in the middle of the profile.

7. Methods for strengthening the frame

To strengthen the door frame, wooden blocks are placed inside the PS-profile (facing the inside of the opening), or, as mentioned above, a UA-profile is installed. The cross-section of the bars is selected according to the size of the profile to be strengthened.

To strengthen the structure of the partitions, they resort to the following methods: reduce the step between the racks (up to 400 mm), use wooden embedded bars (to strengthen the rack profile), use a paired PS profile.

An additional profile, installed inside or next to the rack, also strengthens the partition structure. In the attachment points of attachments, the frame is reinforced with embedded elements in the form of wooden bars or pieces of plywood 2-3 cm thick, which are fixed between the racks using crabs or semi-crabs.

8. Making a doorway, installing crossbars

The upper part of the doorway is formed using a guide profile (PN). It is cut so that its projected length is 30 cm greater than the width of the opening. On the outside of the resulting blank, two marks are made at a distance of 150 mm from the edge of the cross member.

Both risks should be visible on the sidewalls of the profile: it is along them that it is cut in the direction from the edges of the sidewalls to the mark on the bend of the profile. Then both edges of the profile are bent at right angles. It turns out a U-shaped crossbar, which easily moves along the racks and is also easily screwed to them with the help of self-tapping screws - "bugs". See the photo below:

Below are the schemes for installing the profile and sheathing with drywall sheets in the area of ​​the doorway:

The joint of drywall sheets should not fall on the rack to which the door frame is attached

Horizontal crossbars are made in the same way. They are used both for strengthening the frame and for joining drywall sheets with a significant partition height. Therefore, for high walls, it is recommended to make 2-3 rows of horizontal crossbars.

Pay attention to the fact that, according to all the rules for fixing the jumpers, the shanks of the adjacent strips are bent in different directions (up / down), and the crossbars themselves are staggered (with a seam separation of at least 40 mm). This is done so that the horizontal joints of adjacent sheets do not have coincidences and cross-shaped seams.

9. Fasteners for the construction of a plasterboard partition

1) For fixing the profile to concrete slabs and brick walls, fast mounting dowels with a dimension of 6x40-80 mm are used. They are screwed along the edges and placed at a distance of 40-50 mm from each other. Shorter counterparts measuring 6x40 mm are used to fix the profile to hollow slabs.

The same fastener, but with L = 60 mm, attaches it to bricks just as reliably, and with L = 80 mm - to hollow bricks and plastered walls. Nylon dowels of both are inserted into drilled (through the profile) holes. Spacer nails are driven in with a hammer or puncher.

2) Self-tapping screws for metal with a drill size of 13x3.5 mm (seeds) are suitable for assembling the frame. The installation of one rack takes an average of 4 such screws. If you want to save money on fasteners, then choose short self-tapping screws with a sharp, rather than a drill bit.

Also, profiles can be connected using a cutter:

3) Larger hardware 3.5x25 mm with flat heads and fine thread pitch are suitable for fastening drywall to a finished metal frame. They are wrapped in the center of the panel and along its perimeter (at a distance of 10-12 mm from the edge). The hats are sunk into the sheet so that they do not break through the cardboard. An average of 60 to 70 self-tapping screws are used per sheet.

10. Sheathing of the frame

For sheathing the frame, drywall sheets with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm with a side chamfer are suitable. The latter makes it possible to reinforce the joints with a self-adhesive serpyanka and fill them with a high-strength putty.

By the presence of a bevel, as by a marker, the front side of the sheet is determined. Each of them is screwed to three support posts: two at the edges and one at the center. In this case, the joints of the sheets pass in the middle of the profile. In damp rooms, instead of conventional panels, moisture-resistant gypsum board (GKLV) is used.

In the absence of a factory chamfer, for example, when using drywall scraps, the chamfer must be done independently, using a construction knife and a special grater (plane):

When sheathing the partition with two layers of drywall, the sheets of the second row are displaced horizontally by a step of the racks, and vertically by at least 400 mm, and a similar displacement of the sheets is done when installing the first row of drywall, but on the reverse side of the structure.

Layout of drywall sheets with two-layer sheathing of the partition

When installing a partition with a height of 3.0 m or less, as a rule, there are no horizontal joints of the sheets.

To create a gap at the floor, the sheets are supported on a temporary spacer 10 mm thick and fixed with self-tapping screws.

By trimming the top edge, a gap is obtained at the ceiling (10 mm wide). Both clearances help prevent premature failure of the structure.

It is important to ensure that the beveled edges of the sheets to be mounted are located in the center of the uprights, the shorter edges are along the axis of the crossbars, and the seams of the sheathing do not converge at the corners of the door frame.

When fastening drywall sheets with self-tapping screws, you should adhere to the following rules:

• The distance between the self-tapping screws should not exceed 250 mm (but with two-layer sheathing for the first row, this value can be increased to 750 mm);
• The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the profile at a right angle;
• The self-tapping screw cap should be sunk into the GKL sheet by 1 mm and not tear the cardboard;
• The body of the self-tapping screw must enter the metal structure by at least 10 mm;
• The vertical displacement of self-tapping screws on adjacent sheets must be at least 10 mm;
• When installing self-tapping screws, it is necessary to retreat at least 15 mm from the longitudinal edge of the sheet, and 10 mm from the end edge.

The photo above shows that the distance between the screws should be no more than 250 mm, and the displacement of the screws on adjacent sheets should be at least 10 mm

On the left - the correct position of the screw in the drywall sheet, on the right - the wrong position of the screw: a) the screw is twisted at an angle b) the screw is set too deep c) the screw is not set deep enough

The chamfers of the sheets are joined in the center of the posts, and the short edges of the panels - along the axis of the lintels. If the joints of the latter coincide, then the longitudinal line of the cruciform seam will become a source of cracking. And no, even the highest quality finish, will not help here. Therefore, they are joined with a gap (with a shift) of the seams of at least 40 cm.

To cut a sheet of drywall, it must be laid on a flat surface and marked with a pencil. A construction knife with replaceable blades is used to cut the top layer of cardboard. Then the sheet must be turned over and gently broken along the cutting line. Then the cardboard is cut from the second side of the sheet (photo below):

Immediately after sheathing the frame from one of the sides, you can start drilling holes (Ø35 mm) in the profile posts. They are useful for those who lay electrical cables inside the wall. So that the sharp edges of the slots do not damage the braid, they are bent, and the wiring itself is laid in the corrugation.

Also on the building materials market there is a profile with ready-made holes for laying communications.

Holes for sockets and switches are cut using round crowns. You can read more about this.

11. Soundproofing of the partition

Thermal insulation is laid in the inter-rack space. Foam plastic, mineral wool, isover, and in a humid environment - expanded polystyrene act as a filler and an artificial barrier for acoustic waves.

Do not forget about the metal frame, which, as you know, is a good conductor of sound. When connecting its parts, special polymer gaskets are used, and a sealing tape is glued under the guide profiles.

The filler is cut and tightly packed between the racks (this is done after sheathing the frame on one side, laying all communications, installing sockets and switches).

The thickness of the insulation is selected in such a way that its surface does not protrude beyond the frame. Otherwise, you will certainly encounter violations of the geometry of the sheathing when bulging drywall.

After the insulation has been laid, the second side of the partition is sewn up.

12. Partition finishing

The joints of drywall sheets are reinforced with a special tape - serpyanka... Serpyanka has an adhesive surface, therefore it is glued to drywall sheets without any additional means. Then a layer of universal putty is applied over the reinforcing tape, since the surface of the serpyanka is mesh, the putty penetrates deep into the joint. The putty layer is leveled, and the excess is removed.

The quality of filling the plasterboard partitions and the number of layers depend on the type of finish. For example, before painting, it is necessary to putty as carefully as possible, and when laying high quality tiles, it is not required, since minor irregularities will be compensated for by a layer of tile glue.

After the putty dries, the surface of the partition, which not only improves adhesion with finishing materials, but also protects the partition from moisture.

That's all. Hope you find the material helpful.

However, when starting to build a partition on your own, it is important not to overlook anything. Indeed, only in this case it is possible to achieve proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary worries during the installation process and save money at the same time.

Having decided on the place of erection of the drywall wall with your own hands, you can begin to form a list of materials and tools.

Having decided on the place of erection of the drywall wall with your own hands, you can begin to form a list of materials and tools. At this stage, you will need to make a number of measurements that will be needed for further calculations. Not only the height and width of the room at the place where the partition was erected are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, of the windows. After all the dimensions have been fixed by you, you can arm yourself with a calculator and start compiling a list of necessary materials.

Indeed, only in this case it is possible to achieve the proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary worries during the installation process and save money at the same time.

Calculation of the required materials

The basic list of materials looks like this:

• guide and rack profile;
• sealing tape;
• self-tapping screws and dowels for securing the profile;
• drywall;
• self-tapping screws for fastening drywall;
• wooden beams to strengthen the profile around the doorway;
• heat insulating material;
• sleeve for insulation of electrical wiring.

Not only the height and width of the room at the place where the partition was erected are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, of the windows.

In order to prevent unnecessary spending or buying an insufficient amount of material, it is advisable to carry out preliminary calculations. With drywall, everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of ​​the future partition. To do this, we multiply the height of the room by its width at the installation site of the plasterboard wall and subtract the area of ​​the doorway from the resulting number. If a single-layer cladding is planned, then the result must be multiplied by 2, in the case of a two-layer - by 4. For a wall, it is best to take standard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Depending on the characteristics of the room, you have to choose between simple and moisture-resistant drywall.

In order to prevent unnecessary spending or buying an insufficient amount of material, it is advisable to carry out preliminary calculations.

The guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure with the floor and ceiling. Based on this, we simply multiply the length of the future wall by 2 and get the required amount of the profile. The rack-mount profile is a little more complicated. The recommended distance between the racks is 60 cm, so first you need to divide the width of the room, measured in cm, by 60, thus finding out the required number of racks. Then the resulting number is multiplied by the height of the room. Add two more wall lengths to the resulting number - these are jumpers to strengthen the structure.

With drywall, everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of ​​the future partition.

If there is a door in the plans, then the racks adjacent to the door must be reinforced with a wooden bar of the appropriate thickness. The reinforced thick-walled AU profile can serve as an alternative to the timber. The quantity is simple: the length of the two pillars adjacent to the door plus the width of the doorway.

The guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure with the floor and ceiling.

Cooking the tool

In order to avoid problems in the process of erecting a drywall wall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the necessary tools for carrying out the work. You will need:

• roulette;
• plumb line and level;
• scissors for metal;
• construction knife;
• plane;
• screwdriver;
• grater.

Depending on the characteristics of the room, you have to choose between simple and moisture-resistant drywall.

The key to success: correct layout and installation

The most important and crucial moment in the assembly of the frame of the future partition is the markup. It is better to start it on the floor. Then, using a plumb line, the walls and ceiling are marked. It is very important not to forget about a few nuances:

1. When marking a plasterboard wall, it is necessary to tie to two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators. Without doing this, you can get a room with a visual curvature, because right angles are very rarely found in buildings and the wall opposite to the partition can be oblique in relation to the other two.
2. The line you drew is a pointer for laying the guide profile, respectively, the partition will protrude beyond this line by the thickness of the sheets of drywall, plaster and finishing material.

Working with metal profiles

Having finished with the markings, you can start attaching the guide profile. It is laid using a sealing tape. Fix the guide profile with dowels and self-tapping screws. There should be an interval of no more than 50 cm between fasteners. The edges of the guide profile must be fixed.

The next step in assembling the frame is to install and fix the rack profile along the edges of the guide. Then the doorway pillars are installed face-to-face to each other. The distance between them should be taking into account the upcoming plating hl. Next, the remaining racks are installed, while the first of them is located at a distance of 55 cm from the wall, the subsequent ones are placed at intervals of 60 cm.

Plasterboard sheathing is a simple matter, but it requires compliance with some rules.

The distance between the posts is measured from their centers. It is recommended to first insert the carrier profile into the lower guide, then into the upper one. Racks are fixed only after checking its position with a plumb line or level. If there is a living space on the floor above, then it is advisable to use a building film when laying the profile. Its laying in the place of contact of two profiles will help to avoid the characteristic squeak that is heard during a short-term increase in the load.

The next step will be the installation of horizontal struts designed to strengthen the structure. To do this, it is necessary to cut a profile of the desired length, which is equal to the interval between the posts plus 30 cm. Then, on the basis of the cut, marks are made on each side 15 cm from the cut line. After that, the sidewall of the profile is cut at an angle of 45 degrees, with a slope from the edge to the mark, and give it a U-shape. The workpiece is placed between the racks and fixed. The resulting ears are attached to the outside of the bearing profile.

The tightness of the sheets at the junction depends on the correct cutting.

The horizontal lintels of door and window openings are installed in the same way. However, if they are planned to be rounded, then it is necessary to fix an additional spacer between the rack and the lintel at the desired angle.

Communications

An important point when creating a drywall wall is the installation of electrical wiring. First, it is threaded into a protective metal or non-combustible plastic sleeve. Then holes of the corresponding diameter are made in the supporting profile in the right places. In this case, it is important to bend the edges of the hole to one side and bend it in order to prevent damage to the wiring. Then the wires are pulled to the desired points in the structure.

A layer of cardboard is cut along the outlined line with a construction knife, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the gypsum is neatly broken off.

How to avoid mistakes?

Plasterboard sheathing is a simple matter, but it requires compliance with some rules. So, in order to avoid the appearance of cracks as a result of subsidence, it is recommended to leave a 10-15 mm gap at the junction of the drywall sheets and the floor along the lower edge of the wall. And the self-tapping screws are screwed into hl with a depth of 1 mm so that the cap does not break through the top layer of cardboard.

An optimal option if you do not plan to mount weighty interior items on the walls.

The tightness of the adhesion of the sheets at the junction depends on the correct cutting. The following procedure will give the best result. After placing the sheet on a flat surface, measurements are taken, the border is marked with a pencil. A layer of cardboard is cut along the outlined line with a construction knife, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the gypsum is neatly broken off. The sheet is then turned over and placed again with a cut line on the edge of the support. The second layer of cardboard is trimmed, but not through, and carefully chipped off.

This is a fairly durable material and even large sheets can be laid on their own, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

Single layer sheathing

This is the best option if you do not plan to mount weighty interior items on the walls. At possible mounting points for wall lighting fixtures, it is necessary to reinforce the drywall with plywood or build an additional spacer into the frame.

Then holes of the corresponding diameter are made in the supporting profile in the right places.

If only hl are available to you, the length of which is less than the height of your apartment, then this is easy to fix without compromising the strength of the wall. You just need to use the experience of professionals when creating a wall with your own hands. The space not covered by the sheet is sheathed with fragments of the required size. In this case, it is necessary to avoid the coincidence of the seams at the same level, therefore, throughout the entire wall, you need to alternate whole sheets and their fragments. That is, if in the first row a sheet is sewn from below, and a fragment is sewn on top, then in the next row there should be a fragment from below, and a solid sheet on top.

An important point when creating a drywall wall is the installation of electrical wiring.

All drywall joints must be chamfered. If there is no thinning of the sheet towards the edge, then it must be formed using a planer. The edge of the sheet is thinned at an angle of approximately 22 degrees, but in such a way that a decrease in thickness of no more than 4 mm is observed at the cut line. The edges adjacent to the walls of the wall, on the other hand, should be free of chamfer.

Two-layer cladding

Two-layer plasterboard wall cladding is practiced when it is necessary to install a reinforced partition. Sheathing rules differ little from single-layer, with one exception: the joints of drywall sheets in the lower sheathing layer do not have to be processed, forming a chamfer. It is only needed on the sheets of the top layer.

There should be no more than 50 cm spacing between fasteners.

When sheathing the frame, it is also important to make sure that the seams do not match. For this, the top layer is sewn with an offset of half the width of the sheet. It is also important to increase the number of fixation points. Therefore, if, with a single-layer sheathing, it is sufficient to fasten with self-tapping screws at an interval of 25-40 cm, then with a two-layer sheathing, fixation on the profile with an interval of 15-20 cm is necessary.

Avoid sudden movements when working with HL.

Arch

If there is a desire to make the door or window opening semicircular, then you can independently bend the cut of the required size. To do this, you will need a frame of the required radius, which can be made from scraps of the same drywall and bars.

The edges adjacent to the walls of the wall, on the contrary, should be free of chamfer.

Having prepared everything necessary, a fragment of gL of the desired size is cut off. Then one of its sides must be perforated with a needle roller and moistened with a sponge until a water mirror is formed. After that, the workpiece is moved to a previously prepared frame and smoothly bent. The edges are fixed and left in this position until dry. After an hour, you can remove the clamps and, if the workpiece does not feel loose to the touch, proceed with installation.

In addition, it is important to increase the number of fixation points.

First, the drywall arch is fixed in the center and edges, then screws are screwed in at all points of contact between the drywall and the frame. When fixing the sheet for the first time, it is important not to turn the screws, leaving the head 1-2 mm above the surface. The caps are deepened after the sheet has completely dried.

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature of no higher than 15 degrees.

Heat and sound insulation

An empty drywall wall is like a drum that does not store heat. Therefore, immediately attend to heat and sound insulation. The required amount of material is calculated based on the wall area and profile thickness. The choice of material depends entirely on your preferences and financial capabilities. Comparative characteristics of the most common materials can help you navigate.

Having finished with the markings, you can start attaching the guide profile.

The sound-insulating material is laid before the cladding of the second side of the wall. It is important to seal the material, avoiding gaps between the frame and the layers of thermal insulation. Also, before installation, make sure that the electrical wiring is connected to all marked points on the wall.

Finishing

To begin with, you need to lay a mounting mesh at the joints of the hl and level the groove formed by the chamfers with the general level of the wall with a starting putty.

The most important and crucial moment in the assembly of the frame of the future partition is the markup

It is recommended to strengthen the corner of the doorway using a building corner. It is laid on the starting putty and pressed tightly to the surface. Then the surplus putty is removed with a spatula, along the way leveling it along the general level of the partition. It is advisable to process the corner between the walls with a serpyanka.

In order to avoid problems in the process of erecting a drywall wall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the necessary tools for carrying out the work.

The last step is the elimination of irregularities and roughness. To do this, you need to process all the fixation points with self-tapping screws with a finishing putty, simultaneously treating all cracks and chips that have appeared in the process of work. When the putty is dry, it is important to smooth the surface using an abrasive mesh and floats. If in the future you plan to paint or paste over the wall with thin wallpaper, then it is definitely worth treating it with a primer.

When marking a plasterboard wall, it is necessary to tie to two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators.

What you should pay attention to

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature of no higher than 15 degrees. Even if you are working with waterproof drywall, take care of impregnating the surface with a waterproofing compound, at least in the area of ​​the joints. Avoid sudden movements when working with HL. This is a fairly durable material and even large sheets can be laid on their own, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

If there is a door in the plans, then the racks adjacent to the door must be reinforced with a wooden bar of the appropriate thickness.

VIDEO: Plasterboard partition. Video tutorial. Do it yourself. All stages

Gypsum plasterboard (GKL) consists of two layers of cardboard and a gypsum core with various additives that give additional properties: moisture and fire resistance, strength, etc. It is an easy-to-process, versatile sheet material suitable for leveling walls and installing interior partitions. GKL is not suitable only for rooms with constantly high humidity.

We align the wall with plasterboard with our own hands

There are two ways to cover surfaces with drywall sheets: on the frame or directly against the wall. It is impossible to do without crate if:

• the walls are very crooked - deviation from the vertical is more than 4 cm;
• heat and sound insulation is required - insulation is placed between the wall and the gypsum board layer, to obtain a gap, a frame is needed.

Frame method

The standard pitch between the axes of the vertical posts of the sheathing under the gypsum board is 60 cm. This size is linked to the width of the drywall sheet. The frame is mounted from a special metal profile or wooden blocks. Cons of wood: rots, swells or dries up, treatment with antiseptic and flame retardants is required.

Types of steel wall profiles for frames for gypsum board:

1. Guide (U-shaped, PN, UW). It is installed along the perimeter of the plasterboard wall, as the basis of the sheathing.
2. Rack (C-shaped, PS, CW). It is mainly used to make vertical jumpers between the guides.
3. Corner (perforated, with reinforcing mesh, PU). It is intended for finishing outside corners. This profile is glued to the drywall with putty.

The guide and post profile are available in several sizes. For a single-layer sheathing, a width of 50 mm is sufficient, for a two-layer sheathing - at least 75. When choosing, take into account the height and width of the wall, the load. If there is a layer of insulation between it and the gypsum board, then the profile is taken wide, taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Advantages of frame cladding:

1. Strong fixation of drywall.
2. The ability to hide electrical wiring or pipes, no need to chisel the walls.

Disadvantages:

1. The space is "eaten away" - at least 6 cm from each sheathed wall.
2. Low strength, since there is a gap behind the drywall. If you need to hang cabinets or heavy shelves, then the cladding has to be done in two layers (total thickness is at least 18 mm) or the pitch between the battens of the lathing should be reduced to 40 cm. Furniture fasteners are placed on the profile. The advantage of two-layer cladding is good heat and sound insulation.

A metal profile of any kind has a standard length of 3 m, a rack-mountable one can be found 4-meter - it is chosen if the height of the wall is more than 3 m. The frame made of extended pieces of a 3-meter profile will be fragile. Cutting is most conveniently done with simple metal scissors.

Frameless way

If the walls in the room are relatively flat, then you can save on the frame and save the usable area. GKL to the sheathed surface is fixed with dowels or on special gypsum glue. Both methods can be combined. Instead of glue, it is allowed to use polyurethane foam.

If the deviation from the vertical is from 2 to 4 cm, then beacons from drywall scraps are first attached to the wall. The first ones are installed in the corners, a rope is pulled between them, along which additional beacons are glued every 40 cm. Their level is adjusted by changing the thickness of the gypsum adhesive layer. Marking is applied to the wall, this helps to glue the sheets evenly.

You can start the cladding after the glue has completely set under the beacons.

Fastening to the frame: step by step instructions

Procedure for plastering the frame with plasterboard:

1. Start work from the corner.
2. It is recommended to cut the edge on the gypsum board at an angle of approximately 30 ° (by a third of the thickness). This is necessary to press the putty into the seams. There is drywall on sale, in which the edge already has the desired shape. On trimmed workpieces (for example, when finishing openings), cuts along the edges are mandatory.
3. Set the medium speed on the screwdriver and put the self-tapping screw on the bit.
4. Place a stand up to 1 cm thick underneath the first sheet to create a gap.
5. Press the gypsum board tightly to the frame.
6. Screw in the self-tapping screws so that they are recessed into the surface by about 1 mm. Then the hats are easy to putty. The step between the screws is not more than 20 cm, if the cladding is made in two layers, then on the first one you can do up to 75 cm. The first layer is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws, which are fastened to the second. The distance from the top or bottom of the sheet to the screw is 15 mm, on the right and left they recede by 10 mm.
7. Fasten all sheathing sheets one after the other. Each is attached to at least three profiles, the edges of the gypsum board must fall exactly in the middle of the rack. Small trims can only be fixed to two profiles. When installing the top sheets under the ceiling, also leave a gap.

Self-tapping screws are placed on adjacent sheets with a slight offset. If the cladding is performed in two layers, then the second one begins to be mounted only after the putty has dried in the seams of the first.

Dimensions of plasterboard

Standard dimensions of plasterboard wall: 2500 or 2700 mm by 1200 mm, thickness 12.5 mm. If the distance from the floor to the ceiling is more than 2.7 m, then take sheets 3 m long. There are also small-format sheets on sale - 1500 x 600 mm. It is convenient to work with them alone. Less - more seams.

For a two-layer finish, you can buy a 9.5 mm thick gypsum board (ceiling).

How to dock

If the length of one sheet is not enough for the entire height of the wall, then the upper parts of the sheathing are fixed so that the seams between them do not coincide with the joints between the lower ones. Otherwise, you will not achieve sufficient strength. Seams are sealed with putty and reinforcing tape.

When performing double sheathing, the joints on the first and second layers should also not coincide. If the distance between the uprights of the frame is 60 cm, then the seams of the first layer are made on even profiles, the second on odd ones. If it is impossible to comply with this condition, then the displacement is performed arbitrarily - a minimum of 5 cm.

How to fix

GKL is attached to the crate with special self-tapping screws for drywall for metal or wood, (selected for the frame material). The screw must protrude at least 10 mm from the back of the batten. This also applies to self-tapping screws for the second layer of double skin. For fastening a standard wall gypsum board (12.5 mm) in one layer, the optimum length of a self-tapping screw is 25 mm, in two layers - from 40 mm. The minimum consumption of screws is approximately 20 - 25 pcs per 1 m2 of cladding.

Distance

Gaps of 5 - 10 mm are left between the plasterboard cladding and the floor or ceiling. This is necessary to compensate for the effects of possible shrinkage or temperature changes. For the same purpose, leave a distance of 1 - 2 mm between adjacent sheets of plasterboard cladding.

Plasterboard partition

In the manufacture of an interior partition, installation of the frame is required. It is made of the same materials as the lathing for the wall sheathing. The frame can be double - higher strength, it is easier to place insulation, wires, etc. Sheathing is done in 1-3 layers, the third is needed with increased requirements for insulation or fire safety.

Markup

Installation of a plasterboard partition begins with drawing up a frame diagram, taking into account the location of the sheathing sheets. Marking is applied on it. Procedure:

1. Using a rule or a paint cord, draw a line on the ceiling at the location of the upper guide profile of the batten.
2. Check the fillet angles of the line with all surfaces. They should be exactly 90 °, if the project of finishing the premises does not imply the installation of a partition along the oblique.
3. Using a plumb line, transfer the basting to the floor.
4. Connect the markings on the floor and ceiling with vertical lines on the walls.

How to assemble a frame

The basic rules for installing the plasterboard battens, the step between the profiles, etc. are the same as for wall cladding.

The uprights of the opposite walls of the double frame are set in line. Above and below, between the guide profiles, short sections are attached to connect both parts of the lathing into a single whole.

The same segments are installed along the entire height of the frame in places where the horizontal bridges are located.

Communication in the partition

For laying pipes or cables, the frame is made necessarily double with a gap between the walls. Wires and pipes are passed into this slot before the sheathing of the partition in such a way that the risk of damage to the sharp edges of the profile is excluded. Be sure to photograph the location of communications before attaching the drywall. This will make it easier to repair or partially replace the cable or pipeline. The cladding is made in two layers, the maximum height of the partition is 6.5 m.

Frame cladding and heat and sound insulation

The joints of sheets located on opposite sides of the partition must be offset relative to each other. The recommended distance is 60 or 40 cm, depending on the pitch between the frame posts.

The interior wall can be insulated, for example, with mineral wool slabs. They are placed between the racks of the frame without fasteners before the sheathing. Most heat-insulating materials also have sound-absorbing properties. The best result can be achieved using a special soundproof gypsum board.

Basic rules for installing a plasterboard wall

Plasterboard wall installation with frame:

1. First, guide profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling with dowels according to the marked markings.
2. Fastening the frame to the walls is also performed using dowels. Be sure to use suspensions. These are narrow short steel strips sold in the same place as the profile. To fix the details of the lathing, they are given the shape of the letter P.
3. When installing rack-mount profiles, be sure to immediately check the level of the correctness of their position.
4. If the wall is high, then to increase the rigidity of the structure, horizontal jumpers are installed with a height step of 80 cm.
5. The profiles are connected to each other with self-tapping screws "bug".
6. For tight adhesion of the frame to the walls, floor, ceiling, improvement of insulation, sealing self-adhesive tape is glued to the profiles located along the perimeter of the crate.

Wallpaper, paint, tiles, decorative plasters are suitable for finishing the gypsum board. The finished casing is completely putty under the paint, it is enough to fill the joints and cover the screws under the wallpaper and tiles. To improve the adhesion of the gypsum board to the wallpaper, a primer is applied.

GKL cutting

Drywall is cut with a simple construction knife. The sheet is placed on a table or other flat surface above the floor. Markings are made along a ruler or using a painter's thread. The knife blade is extended to a distance not exceeding the thickness of the gypsum board, and several times is carried out along the intended line.

The sheet is cracked by sliding it so that it hangs over the floor, then flip over and cut the cardboard on the back. If you need a piece in the shape of the letter L, then a short cut is made with a hacksaw, long with a knife. Curved cuts are made with a jigsaw. Holes for sockets, etc., are made before the sheet is attached to the crate - rectangular with a knife, round with a drill with a crown on drywall.

Even a person who does not have experience in construction work can independently level the wall with plasterboard or make an interior partition of a simple form. This method is more economical and less laborious than plastering or masonry of bricks or blocks.

Useful video

Complex forms of plasterboard are necessary not only on the ceiling, sometimes for the uniqueness of the design or for spectacular changes in the layout, you have to think about how to make a round wall. More precisely, arched, since it would be impractical to completely loop the structure. But is drywall able to withstand such tests, and how to get the desired result from straight metal profiles? Let's figure it out.

Before making a round wall, let's find out what it will give.

First of all, perhaps, one should summarize information about such a convenient, but not particularly durable drywall. This composite material is also known as dry plaster, and is actively used for wall decoration, even in rooms with high levels of humidity or flammability using particularly resistant sheets. However, unlike decorative coatings, which are applied with a thickness of several millimeters and immediately represent the finishing option, sheets of two layers of cardboard, between which a frozen layer of gypsum is enclosed, requires finishing.

But if you do not pay attention to the decorative component, drywall is a very valuable development, because you can make a round wall out of it quite quickly, only slightly moistening it. Today, sheets are produced with a thickness of 6, 8, and 9.5 millimeters (the most popular dimensions, but there are also thicker ones), which bend relatively easily, especially the first type, called arched. More massive modifications are necessary in cases where a solid foundation is needed, for example, so that drywall niches are not only decorative.

Hence, we conclude that practically no other material can be used, say, for curved walls or for suspended ceilings in the form of complex shapes (especially in the latter case). Neither plywood nor plastic have the required margin of flexibility and durability. Brick is all the more unsuitable for lightweight structures. As for the roundness of plasterboard walls, it is needed, first of all, in cases where it is required to slightly increase the area of ​​one room by removing the protrusion in it, by reducing the area in the adjacent room, where there will be no corner. In addition, protruding details of the layout are damaged more often than rounded ones.

We make rounded partitions

We already know that you can get rounded partitions with ease, however, observing a certain degree of care, since the material is quite brittle. But what about the frame on which you need to attach the sheets? The wooden beam falls off immediately. But with profiles, it turns out that the desired result is quite achievable. We also need mineral wool, a sufficient number of screws and some tools. In particular: a construction compass and a knife, a hacksaw and a grinder saw, a screwdriver, metal scissors, a square, a needle roller, a pencil.

How to make a round drywall wall - a step by step diagram

Step 1: mark the bases

We apply a semicircle to the inner sides of the frames of the partitions to be connected, converging at an angle, so that the flat side of the template is perpendicular to one of the structures, and draw an arc on the floor.

Exactly the same markings should be on the ceiling, but, in the event that drawing on it does not work, we simply fasten the template itself with several screws in the same position in which it lay below.

You can also fix the part cut from the workpiece on top with the same arc, the shape of which our template took.

Step 2: Prepare the guides

It is very important to correctly bend the profile, which, despite being made of metal, can easily take an arched shape. To do this, measure along the back plane of the guide line segments of 5 centimeters, making notes.

Then we draw transverse lines along them, along which we make cuts with a grinder.

We cut one of the profile sides from the cuts with scissors.

Bend the board that remains intact into the arc we need, referring to the line drawn on the floor.

We prepare the exact same profile for the ceiling.

Step 3: making the template

At the first stage of work, we measure out the required bending radius of the wall (the minimum for a nine-millimeter sheet is 50 centimeters), after which we proceed to drawing the template. As a blank, you can use a sheet of plywood or even a piece of drywall, if there is a possibility of such waste.

As a result, a semicircle with the desired radius should be drawn on the sheet, which we cut with a hacksaw, resorting to the help of a construction knife, if it is drywall.

Step 4: Fastening the frame

Make sure that the profiles are strictly vertical. In order not to miss the profiles in the process of sheathing the structure, we draw marks on the floor and ceiling at their bases.

Step 5: Installing the outer arc cover

In order for the drywall sheets to bend without cracks and other blemishes, you need to wet them and leave them for 20 minutes to soften a little.

Then we carefully lift the finishing material, which can now tear like ordinary wet cardboard, and apply it to the extreme vertical rack of the frame. We screw it to the first profile, bend it slightly until it touches the second rack, screw it again and repeat the process until the drywall is fixed on all the vertical elements of the frame.

It is better to cut the sheets into strips or use waste, since they are less likely to crack during the bending process.

Step 6: Installing the soundproofing

Since our round gypsum plasterboard walls are still an unfinished structure with only one-sided cladding, we begin to lay soundproofing plates of mineral wool between the profiles.

To do this, we cut them into narrow strips, which should fit tightly between the vertical posts of the frame, partially entering the inside of the profiles.

Step 7: Installing the inner arc cover

Plasterboard sheets are laid on the inside of the curved structure in exactly the same way as with the outside, with only one difference - now it is possible to form a bend of the sheathing on the outer covering. We wet the drywall strips, but now we roll a needle roller over them from the side that will be outside. When the desired degree of curvature is obtained on the outer part of the arc, we transfer the sheet to the inside of the frame and fix it with screws.

We cut off the excess with a construction knife or saw in the middle of the extreme profile for joining with the following sheathing elements.

With the second layer we fasten the whole wetted sheets, also cutting them off in the middle of the vertical rack.