Tips for painting models with acrylic paints. Painting and simulating various effects of the Tiger tank

One of the important roles in the design of prefabricated aircraft models is painting. Sometimes for some scales of models, for example, 1:72, 1: 100, 1: 144, painting takes the main role and here the most important thing is to make the correct selection of paints and apply them with high quality, it depends on whether you emphasize the merits of the model or not. In this article, you will learn about the basic painting technologies.

Consider the two main methods of painting prefabricated aircraft models: painting the models with a brush and painting with a spray gun (airbrush).

Brush painting

This method is considered the easiest and most accessible to everyone, both beginners and experienced modelers.

Paints

The most common type of paint is nitro paint. But this paint has one big drawback - it is a very pungent and unpleasant smell. These paints are suitable for work areas with good ventilation.

The optimal paint for painting plastic models is alkyd enamels. These enamels have a good texture, they are evenly distributed in a thin layer, giving the surface of the aircraft model a shine, and also have a weak odor. The drying time of such enamels is from 6 to 12 hours, this factor depends on the thickness of the applied coating and the ambient temperature. To create a different palette, the desired shades, you should stock up on the basic six colors: white, black, red, yellow, silver and blue.

Brushes

Now let's consider the question, which brushes should be purchased for painting aircraft models? You will need different brushes: large, small, thin, round, flat. Here the choice depends on the model that you will paint, i.e. the smaller the model, the smaller the size of the brush and, accordingly, vice versa.

You should choose brushes with even bristles, semi-rigid, hairy (for example, sable, badger, squirrel).

After each use, the brushes are cleaned with a paint solution, rinsed thoroughly with water and dried.

And let's move on to the very process of painting over the aircraft models.

1. Preparing the model for staining... To do this, wash the model in warm soapy water using a toothbrush to remove the greasy layer. Then we thoroughly dry the model, for this we leave it in an inaccessible place to minimize the ingress of dust and dirt on it. Or use a special degreaser.

2. Primer... Before applying paint to the surface of the aircraft, the model should be primed. This is done to smooth out various types of irregularities on the surface of the model, as well as to ensure that over time, your paint does not peel off the plane. The soil should be applied evenly to the model.

If, nevertheless, some irregularities remain after the priming, and they do not suit you, you should grind. The aircraft model should be sanded with the finest sandpaper to avoid traces of the skin.

Then we repeat the priming process. The soil should be chosen in light colors - white or gray.

3. Dyeing... If, after priming and grinding the aircraft model, everything suits you, the surface is even, without potholes and cracks, then you can safely proceed to the painting process. One of the basic rules for applying paint to a model is to apply light tones first, and then dark ones. First of all, the lower parts of the model should be painted, then the upper ones. We paint over the upper parts of the model only after the lower ones are completely dry.

To achieve an even layer when applying paint, work in only one direction.

In order not to leave traces of brush strokes, you should dilute the paint so that it becomes more liquid and apply 2 - 3 coats to the model of the aircraft. It is worth mentioning that each subsequent layer of paint should be applied to the dried previous one.

4. At the end of the painting, leave the aircraft model to dry.

Airbrush painting

An airbrush is a tool designed to spray liquid paint with compressed air onto various surfaces.

Before painting airplane models, it is important to adjust the level of paint supply so that no smudges and dust build up on the object to be painted. If you are using an airbrush for the first time, you should, before painting on the most home-made model of an airplane, test the capabilities of the airbrush on any other unnecessary parts of the plastic.

For safety precautions, when using the airbrush, gloves and a respirator should be used.

So, here are the basic principles of airbrushing an airplane model:

Before painting, the model must be thoroughly rinsed and dried.
Then the surface should be sanded with sandpaper.
The next stage is degreasing and drying the product.

4. After complete drying, the model should be primed and, if necessary, sanded again.

5. When painting the entire aircraft model, tape or masking tape to mirrors, headlights, glass, landing gear, etc. Apply the paint in one direction. After applying one coat of paint to the airplane model, let it dry for a few minutes, and then apply the next coat. After that, let the paint dry completely, leave it for 2 - 3 hours. Then we start painting the rest of the aircraft.

6. Complex drawings should be done using stencils. It should be borne in mind that with each subsequent layer of applied paint we use a new stencil.

7. After finishing the painting work, disassemble and thoroughly rinse the airbrush.

Summing up this article, I want to say that high-quality paint will come to you with experience. While doing this work, you should be patient, diligent and accurate - and the result will delight you!

This section describes the technology for solving the problem, in the form of representing the sequence of solving the problem by specific procedures, actions, techniques in the selected software environment. Technology takes the form of instruction.

Painting the model from scratch

+ modulation

OOO "Our City RU", Tyumen

Greetings to dear colleagues! Starting this topic, in principle, I know what I would like to show you. I took a model from Zvezda for experiments, set # 3535, a T-34/76 tank of the 1942 model. Collected it without any tricks, with this good old word "out of the box", that is, completely rested. The goal was not to make a replica tank (it is intended for a gift), even the tracks left these terrible rubber bands, what you see, after painting, they will still be pulled up to the rollers. Well, shoot me, I don't know and I don't understand how someone paints this together with the assembled tank. So, the tracks will still be painted separately. Oh, yes, I still hate drilled barrels and "glushakov", I drilled them. I also made one handle on the transmission hatch. Something all the same glanced lazily at the schemes of such tanks. On that, my finishing touches and ended. By color: I will paint, as expected, you can even call the fashionable word "preshading", and color MODULATION (color volume). How not to call it, the model should already look three-dimensional during the preliminary pokarse and this is correct. Since the following damage and washes will not hide the main volume, but will only improve the visible.

Preshading- a painting method that allows you to get rid of the general uniformity of the paint, add color nuances and give expressiveness and realism to the color of the model.

Dark (black, black-brown, etc.) paint is applied to the primed model with an airbrush along the joining lines, panel joints, hatches, etc., then in the process of painting in camouflage colors, the dark bottom layer looks through the main colors and creates an effect dissimilar coverage. Some places (jointing, panels) are darker, others (between seams and joints, inside the perimeter of jointing panels) are lighter.

The main condition is that the layer of paint with camouflage on top of the dark pre-shading should be as thin as possible and not too covering, otherwise the lower dark layer will be completely painted over and the effect of a heterogeneous surface will disappear. The technology manifests itself best of all when painting with acrylic paints, since they are more translucent than enamels and nitro.

Some modelers believe that using strong pre-shading spoils the model (it looks "checkered"), preferring technically more complex post-shading, with active use of filters.

The barrel was taken from the "Drgonovskaya" model.

I chose these paints for painting the model, the star is acrylic:

The first step, the primer, is usually made dark, I took a mixture of acrylic paints for it (it seems Tamiya). Any dark shade, greenish, brownish, is suitable here, the main thing is that black should be 60-80%. The model is completely blown out from top to bottom. The only thing is that the caterpillars are painted separately, also with a mixture of brown paints, I always paint the caterpillars like this, and never use black or silver. The ridges of the current are painted with dull silver at the caterpillars.

I compared paints with the same characteristics, "Akan" and "Star" - the result:

I had to lighten the star a little, and this is necessary.

Mixed paints, the star is thick paint, you need to dilute to a liquid state, used alcohol and water.

You can compare it with the dark first layer in the picture.

I applied the paint of the main color at a right angle, here it is just necessary not to fill in the corners, this is how I painted the rollers:

As for the filling, I marked the places of lateral blowing with an arrow, i.e., the paint stream only glided over the surface, due to the fact that acrylic paint is more transparent than enamel, a shade of darkening is clearly noticeable. I also applied the "vertical blowing effect" along the sides, in places where there may be blackouts, these are air intakes, etc. Places under the fenders can be ignored altogether, of course, if you paint with rollers. The bottom does not need to be painted.

On the third layer, I used paints:

Before proceeding to the next layer, you need to think about exactly where you need to apply the lightening. Here the rule is important: the higher the detail on the tank, the brighter it should be, the artistic look, light and shadow come into force. It is necessary to remember the horizontal planes should be lighter than the lateral ones. Selection of corners, if you look at the model, it should be three-dimensional. You simply cannot do without the use of masks, it is very important to accurately apply the adhesive tape to the corners.

the rollers need to be blown in only in one direction, lateral upward. And only the central part.

You can continue, lightening the body, I continue.

It will look very interesting if you apply a slightly different shade, which I did:

In my opinion, at the corners, you just need to make it even lighter, to the brightening green paint I added white, more ...

By the way, another tone of paint needs to be muffled a little, with a light green tint

Completed in three stages, the corpus looks something like this:

The tower is also repaired before the edges are lightened, decals are stuck, adhesive tape must be glued carefully - the decals can be torn off, this is what happened to me with the inscription "For Stalin" After the decals, you can lighten.

This is a tank ready in three stages.

I continued my work from the tower - this is the fourth and last stage before the filter.

Now it looks something like this:

Let's continue, the model was covered with enamel varnish from Tamiya.

They also turned out to be lightened and rain streaks ...

I diluted the oil paint with refined white spirit (weak smelling), bought it in an art store.

... I squeezed the paint onto a palette (artistic), used brush number 2, with a tongue type (semicircular end at the pile), when applying oil paint, applied the paint as follows: white areas in light areas, beige or yellow areas of medium tone, brown or brown ones in dark areas ... The next step, dipping a brush in a solvent, poured a stain of paint into the recess of the palette - starting from the sides, carefully, slowly, I smear downward. Vertical planes are made from top to bottom ...

... I haven’t done any horizontal lines yet, here I think it will be enough just a little lightening of the surface, and there is no need to indicate directions.

Washes applied immediately and brown and black in some places MIG-ovsky wash diluted with a thinner from the same MIG. Without it, nothing happens.

It seems like I did a wash, and this is what happened.

Today killed 6 hours for chips, used oil tempera, primary colors, sienna and burnt umber. Brush number 2.

And a couple of shots taken in daylight:

The treacherous shine simply upsets me in places, well, I don't know, maybe the lower parts will have to be treated with pigments, but it's time to finish the caterpillars. From the last work, the hairs were just terribly enraged, where they came from, I just don't know, I seem to dry in a box.

I will continue little by little, caterpillars. I blew them out with a mixture of Tamiya paints, which I don’t even remember, this mixture has been stirred in my bottle for a long time, the main thing is that I have determined for myself that I will never paint the caterpillars in silver and black. The color chose a medium between dusty gray and brownish shades.

For toning I chose the following pigments from the moment.

The selected pigments were mixed and applied to the tracks with a brush ...

... the pigment fixed with MIG thinner for washes, dried up, it turned out like this, after that, with a bristle brush, smeared the pigment in the direction of the caterpillars themselves.

By the way, after drawing a pencil, an interesting texture was drawn on the tracks, I liked it.

How I wanted to tighten the tracks, it seems to have worked, if it hadn't worked out, I wouldn't have posted it.

The essence is simple, in the ridges or whatever they are called, I drilled a wire in four places and twisted this wire between the two rollers, the wire itself was hidden between the rollers. That's all the only thing that terribly did not like the fastening of the vinyl tracks of the star itself is just awful, but I couldn't solder them better, and I don't care.

It seems to have finished the model, this is what happened:

Material taken from the forum in Tyumen.

OOO "Our City RU", Tyumen

Collections of prefabricated models are a whole miniature world. Small, so detailed and realistically executed copies of military, and not only, equipment - planes, ships, cars, motorcycles - often become the subject of enthusiastic collectibles. Moreover, it is pleasant not only to collect a collection of prefabricated models, creating, for example, a mini-exposition of a military event, but also to directly participate in their creation.
The object model is sold disassembled as a set. This is a kind of volumetric puzzle that needs to be assembled, clearly focusing on the attached instructions. The models are made of high-quality plastic with preservation of all the smallest details inherent in a real object.

In some models, the parts are already painted, but in most cases the parts in the set have a solid gray color, which you need to add picturesque to yourself.
It is worth noting that painting a prefabricated model is a rather painstaking business. But do difficulties frighten us? Then let's get started!

What is required to paint prefabricated models

1 Paint Choosing a paint for modeling is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Water-soluble acrylic paints are excellent and can be applied with a brush or sprayed with an airbrush. Modeling paints are conveniently sold in sets specially selected for the color of a particular type of equipment, for example, "Military equipment", "Ships", "Aviation", etc.
There are also nitro paints, but this is an option for professional modelers, behind whose shoulders there is already more than one painted model. In addition, it is worth considering that such paints have a very pungent smell. Attention.

2 Brushes Brushes will do whatever you like, as long as the pile is soft and does not leave marks. Although in some cases, such traces can give a realistic texture to the model. For example, to convey the texture of wood on the planks of a ship, you can use small diameter bristles. You can use an airbrush instead of a brush, but this is a tool for professionals.

In practice, you can achieve excellent results with a brush. Choose brushes of several sizes, round and flat, so that you can easily paint large surfaces and small details.

3 Primer When painting models with acrylic paints, a primer is required, otherwise the paint will simply "roll" off the surface without painting it. In addition, with a primer, it is easier to identify unexpected irregularities on the surface, so that later they can be putty, cleaned and primed again. It is not necessary to prime models for nitro paint, but nevertheless it will not be superfluous to identify and eliminate irregularities. Be sure to choose a primer that is suitable for polystyrene so as not to damage the model!

4 Varnish Varnish is an excellent protection of the finished model from all external factors. The model can not only be wiped from dust, but even completely "bathed" under the tap, without fear of rubbing off the paint or damaging something. For nitro paints, both nitro and acrylic varnish are suitable. But for acrylic paints, only acrylic varnish should be used! Otherwise, the paint layer may swell.

7 Thinner Whenever you work with acrylic, keep your acrylic thinner with you. It will help to keep the brushes in their original form and to erase random drops of paint.

For the model itself, you will need a model knife or paper cutter, nippers, sandpaper of various grain sizes, and a file will not be superfluous. You may need a one-component, designed for modeling, putty, flat spatula for applying putty on irregularities, and for very small models, you can take a flat screwdriver instead of a spatula.

A large number of varnishes, paints and primers are sold in aerosol cans. The paints do not need to be thinned, in general, this option is well suited for large models.

Preparation for work

Having prepared and protected the work surface and furniture around, you can start assembling the model. Carefully detach the parts from the sprues and carefully sand the cuts to smooth them out.
Carefully study the instructions and see which places you can paint over after gluing and which not. Based on this, some parts of the model can be immediately connected to each other. Apply the glue pointwise with the very tip of a brush or a regular sewing needle, then press the glued parts tightly against each other and leave for a few minutes. The glue will dry completely in about a day.
If the model contains transparent parts, it is better to cover them with masking tape.

Do this in any convenient way, for example, dampen a cotton pad or lint-free cloth in a degreaser. Do not touch the part with your hands! Degreasers, such as alcohol and gasoline, evaporate on their own, and dishwashing detergents must be rinsed off under running water, after which the parts must dry thoroughly.

Let's start painting

First you need to decide on the base color of the model. See what color should be the most on the finished product - take this color as a basis. It may need to be applied in several layers.

It's important to know!
When painting models of military and other equipment, do not use solid colors. Even if the color seems saturated and uniform, try adding a little black, white, or sandy yellow to it. Feel free to experiment with the palette and the result will be very natural. For example, if a part looks black, try painting it dark brown and darkening some areas with black.

Having covered the details of the model with the main color and waiting for it to dry, you can start toning. To do this, you can use the same paints from the set, only diluting them strongly with water. You can apply darkening or imitate dried dirt in color. It is better to combine different toning colors, so the model will be "livelier".
There are so-called "filters" that slightly change the shade of the main color, making it picturesque. To do this, you can use oil paints with any thinner for oil paints, for example, with white spirit. The paint is diluted very thinly and should be more like a watercolor, we cover the entire model with the obtained tinted liquid.

A brown, gray filter, ocher will do, or you can apply several filters one after the other. After applying the filter, the model is left to dry for at least a day.
You can make the model even more realistic. For example, the image of adhering dirt is good with a sponge, and splashes are easy to depict if you put paint on a toothbrush and run your finger over it, spraying the paint on the desired surface. You can achieve texture, for example, adhering lumps of earth, by mixing the paint with PVA glue and putty. Rubbing paint in with a dry brush will also give interesting effects. And if you slightly blur some areas on the model with thinner, you get an imitation of paint fading in the sun.

That's all. Now you can show your friends a real miniature model, not only assembled, but also painted with your own hands!

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