Plastering over lighthouses is the best way to level the walls. How to plaster walls on beacons: leveling technology, installation and do-it-yourself markup from A to Z How to level walls with plaster on beacons

Plaster beacons help you get the job done quickly and easily. For beginners, plastering the walls with their own hands using ready-made lighthouses is the only right solution. The difficulty lies in the installation of profiles. Consider what tools are needed for work, what is the peculiarity of plaster and technology. Step-by-step instructions will help you do everything yourself.

Tools and materials

Lighthouses are guiding elements. These can be string beacons for plastering, metal profiles, wooden battens or PVC products. The types of plaster beacons are varied. You need to choose the type of product and buy it. You will also need the following arsenal of tools and materials:

All tools can be found at home or bought at a hardware store. The only problem is the hammer drill. It will cost you the most.

Advice! If you have a good friend with a hammer drill, you can borrow the tool from him.

Surface preparation and priming

Before plastering on the lighthouses, a number of preparatory work is carried out. First, the room is cleared of everything that will interfere: furniture, decorative elements, curtains, etc. Next, the old wall covering, if any, is removed. The wallpaper is soaked with water and removed with a spatula; it is also convenient to remove the putty with a spatula. As for the old plaster, it is knocked down by a perforator with a chisel. And solvents will help get rid of the paint. At the end, the surface is tapped in order to detect lagging fragments. They are also deleted.

Plastering walls requires priming the surface for good adhesion to the plaster. If the wall surfaces are non-porous and smooth, Betonkontakt is used, and hydrophobic walls require a deep penetration primer. A section of the wall is primed with a roller, hard-to-reach places are processed with a brush. The composition is applied in two layers with a break for drying.

With the help of a building level, the evenness of the wall is checked. It is important to determine vertical deviations by applying a level. With the help of a long rule, all depressions and protrusions are found on the wall. They should be marked with a marker. Now you can make fasteners for plaster beacons. This is the most important step. To get the job done correctly, markup is done.

Markup

We will consider the markup on a wall, the length of which is 5.8 m, and the height is 2.75 m. To begin with, you need to step back 30 cm from the corner of the wall and put a mark with a marker. Next, you need an indent from the floor and ceiling of 15 cm. Marks are also made in these places. It remains to apply a perfectly flat line on the wall with an indent of 30 cm from the corner and 15 cm from the ceiling and floor. The size of the plaster beacons is selected depending on the height of the ceiling.

Advice! To make the vertical line straight, use the rule.

The distance between the beacons should not exceed the length of your rule. If the tool is smaller, the distance is reduced. So, the second line is drawn from the other corner of the wall. The indentation is the same. It turns out that the distance between the lines is 5.2 m (60 cm is an indent on both sides). In this case, four sections can be made inside, 1.3 m each.

Having departed from the first line the selected size, the remaining lines are drawn on the wall. Along these lines, the installation of beacons on the wall under plaster will be carried out. Now you can tackle the extreme lines. We have an indent from the ceiling and floor by 15 cm. In these places (at the edges of the lines) holes are made for dowels. Then the dowel itself is driven in and a self-tapping screw is screwed in. A cord is tied to the self-tapping screws and pulled horizontally. It should look like a contour rectangle.

Adjusting the resulting contour:

1. If the wall is filled evenly by 15 mm, then the distance from the wall to the contour of the future surface should be 25 mm. This includes a wall blockage, a profile thickness of 6 mm and a margin of 4 mm. Accordingly, if the blockage is greater, the distance also increases.
2. The contour is checked by the level for verticality. If necessary, adjust the screw-in depth of the screws.
3. Before placing beacons for plastering, it is important to check the correctness of the markings. To do this, pull the cord diagonally.
4. Using the profile, you need to draw them along the wall under the threads. He shouldn't hurt them. If this happened in one place, adjust the contour with corner screws.
5. As for the horizontal cord, the profile may touch it slightly.

Installing profiles

Now everything is ready to mount. For further work, you can use plastic beacons for plastering or metal products. Fixing them is done in different ways. Before installing the beacons under the plaster, you need to prepare a solution. Metal products are attached specifically to the plaster. It is applied along one line in small portions, after which the profile is embedded in the plaster to the desired size (to be flush with the caps of the screws). When all the profiles are level, you can unscrew the self-tapping screws. But the plaster plastic lighthouse is installed on special fasteners.

You will learn more about how to install plaster beacons using fasteners from this video.

A relatively new method is string beacon plastering. The following video will allow you to get acquainted with this method:

Preparation of plaster mortar
When the beacons are exposed, you can start mixing the solution. Gypsum plaster mixes are sold dry or ready-made. For work, you need to mix the dry mixture with water, and just open the finished solution and get to work. As for the cement composition, it is done by hand. The creation is as follows:

1. Cement M400 or higher is mixed with sand. The proportion is 1: 3.
2. A little water is added to the mixture and the contents are mixed.
3. The solution is brought to the state of thick sour cream and you can start plastering on the beacons.

Note! For plasticity and good adhesion, water is mixed with PVA glue. The fact is that the ready-made mixtures already contain plasticizers and additives that improve the plaster.

Plastering

Working with profiles is pretty straightforward. Work begins with one of the finished sections, the first from the corner. The whole plastering process can be divided into three stages:

Note! The whole plastering process is level-controlled.

Conclusion

That's all, the plastering work has been completed. It remains to process the corners and places at the ceiling and floor. Thanks to detailed instructions and visual videos, even a beginner will be able to do the plaster on the lighthouses with their own hands.

The process of applying plaster on lighthouses takes place in several stages:

1. Preparation of the rough surface for work.
2. Exposing lighthouses, according to the building level.
3. Plastering.
4. Finishing grouting.

Consider each step in more detail. Initially, the working surface has a suitable preparation, in which the walls are treated with a primer. At the next stage, the locations of the lighthouses are calculated, and their direct installation is carried out. The lighthouses are fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into holes previously made with a puncher.

After installing the first beacons, you need to make sure that the horizontal and vertical level is observed. Since the lighthouses act as a basis for the plaster solution, it is necessary to make sure of the strength and quality of their installation. The next stage is characterized by the application of plaster, which is given some time to harden.

The peculiarity of this method of plastering is the method of applying the solution. The finished mixture is sketched in a heap, vertically, from bottom to top. Its leveling between the space of the lighthouses is carried out with the help of special construction tools. In the process of carrying out this manipulation, excess mass is removed. After some time, when the solution has set, experts remove the beacons, and their locations are sealed with the same mixture.

The final stage is grouting, which is the most important process. That is why such work should be performed only by professional craftsmen. The drying time of surfaces depends on many factors, therefore it does not have a clear framework. The speed of drying depends on the layer of applied plaster, the temperature regime in the room, the level of humidity, and, accordingly, the possibility of operating the room.

In addition to the professionalism of employees, it is necessary to pay attention to the quality of the materials used. It is from them that the durability of the repair work carried out and their appearance will depend.

The specialists of our company have significant experience and a high level of qualifications. Therefore, our company provides customers with a warranty period of up to 3 years.

The cost of plastering walls on lighthouses

View	Price per sq. M
Trowel plaster gypsum plaster.	RUB 290 / m2
Plaster under the rule.	RUB 330 / m2
Plastering of walls on lighthouses with a layer of up to 30 mm	490 rubles / m2
Complex geometric wall plaster	690 rubles / m2
Application of decorative Venetian plaster	from 1,000 rubles / m2
Decorative plastering	from 1 490 rubles / m2
Removal (dismantling) of old plaster	RUB 150 / m2
Plaster of door slopes	RUB 200 / m2
Align corners	450 RUB / r.m.
Reinforcement with plaster paint net (cobweb)	RUB 65 / m2.

Plastering is still a popular way to decorate walls. Currently, plaster on lighthouses is used to create smooth surfaces and give the interior an aesthetic appearance. To carry out this work, specialists are usually invited, but if you understand how to plaster correctly and understand the specifics of the process, then you can do it yourself.

Types of plasters and their application

The selection of appropriate materials, plaster solutions, and later their correct use is a responsible task, having coped with which, you can be 100% sure of a positive end result. It is useful to know what plaster is, what types of plaster are available on the market, and what effect can be obtained with their help.

Depending on the method of preparation of the solution, plasters are distinguished:

• ready-made (in bags) - these are pre-prepared mixtures by various manufacturers;
• mixed in the workplace - prepared independently from sand, lime and / or cement.

Accordingly, in terms of composition, there are 4 main, most popular types of plasters that can be used when plastering walls:

• gypsum - plaster based on gypsum and lime;
• cement-limestone - cement, water, sand of different fractions, lime;
• cement - cement is a binder;
• clay - clay-based plaster (clay and sand), is environmentally friendly, is currently rarely used.

When preparing the base for plastering, remember that it must be dry and clean (free from paint, dust and other contaminants). Only then will the plaster adhere properly.

Gypsum plaster

This type of plaster is very smooth in the final finish (as a rule, only 10% of the wall surface needs to be smoothed out before painting). The consumption of gypsum plaster is lower, for example, cement. The plaster solution should be used in dry rooms: living rooms, bedrooms, hallways. The walls covered with it are warm, and, therefore, a healthy microclimate reigns throughout the house. Gypsum plaster is best used as a base for painting.

The advantage of gypsum is the fact that it can be plastered on various bases: porous concrete, hollow blocks, bricks, and with proper reinforcement, even foam. It should also be borne in mind that when plastering walls on beacons, gypsum is applied extremely simply. Gypsum plaster dries from 1 to 2 weeks at a temperature of about 20 ° C. If the room is ventilated, then this process is reduced to 4 days.

The disadvantage of gypsum plaster is its softness, low resistance to damage, high hygroscopicity.

Cement and cement-lime plasters

These types of plaster even after grouting. Grains of various sizes are felt to the touch. The cement-lime composition is best used when plastering a garage, basement, laundry, bathroom, that is, places that are especially exposed to moisture. Also in the case of cement plaster, which, in addition to being highly resistant to damage, also resists the action of water.

The walls of the house with cement-lime plaster are cold. Experts assure that the temperature difference between gypsum and cement-lime plaster can be clearly felt by touch. Cement-lime and cement plasters are very suitable as a base for tiles and wallpaper throughout the apartment.

Cement-lime plaster is quite easy to use for plastering on beacons, and has good vapor permeability.

Clay plaster - environmentally friendly

Clay is currently a little used material. However, it is worth knowing that this material has many advantages. Clay plaster is made, as the name indicates, on the basis of clay, which is the binder. It allows air to pass through, in addition, it regulates humidity (quickly accepts and gives up water), creating a healthy climate. The truth tends to absorb not only water, but also odors, such as tobacco smoke.

The main disadvantage is the fact that a square meter of such 1 cm thick plaster weighs 18 kg. The advantage is that clay-based plaster is resistant to mold and mildew. Clay is neutral and natural, so it is perfect for plastering an allergy sufferer's room or nursery.

Plastering of walls

Regardless of which type of plaster is used, it is important that the plaster is properly applied and provides solid and level walls for many years of use. Observing certain rules, you can get the desired result. Plastering walls on lighthouses with your own hands requires appropriate preparation of the surface for plastering (priming the walls) and the selection of the necessary tool. The actual tool is the same as with ordinary plaster:

• measuring tool - plumb line, construction and water levels, tape measure, square;
• plastering ladle - apply mortar;
• trowel - for handling the solution (mix, cut / smooth);
• half-scraper - for applying, leveling and compaction of the solution;
• grater and spatula - for the final grouting of the walls;
• brush (washcloth or maklovitsa) - moisten the surface;
• the rule is to install beacons, level the solution;
• lighthouses.

Plastering the walls should be started after carefully assessing the base. First of all, it is recommended to follow the rules that plastering can begin at least two months after the construction of the house. This is the minimum time required for the building to settle. If you start finishing work too quickly, subsidence will lead to the appearance of unaesthetic cracks on the surface of the walls.

It is advisable to carry out plastering work in appropriate conditions. The recommended temperature when performing work is 5-25 degrees. At too high temperatures, the plaster will dry too quickly and this can tear it. It is forbidden to perform plastering at low temperatures, since then it will not be possible to apply the plaster mass correctly, which will lead to numerous damage and cracks.

Preparing walls for plastering

The surface for plastering must be properly pre-treated. It must be cleaned of dirt, dust, possible residues of paint or wallpaper (this applies to a repair situation). It is recommended that the walls be moistened with a brush or roller and allowed to dry. It is important to completely remove dust from the walls, because its presence will make it impossible for the effective "adhesion" of the plaster to the surface.

Then the walls should be primed. The primer can be applied by brush (in hard-to-reach places, corners, etc.) or by roller (on large wall surfaces). Particular attention should be paid to the preparation for plastering of all critical places, such as corners at the junction of walls and ceilings, around window openings and walls under the lighthouse.

In places where different materials are connected or where fairly wide seams are encountered, it is worth protecting the surface with a layer of fiberglass mesh. This will prevent possible fractures / cracks in the plaster.

Installation of beacons

Before plastering the walls along the lighthouses, you must install them correctly. To get a smooth, even plane, you should hang the wall. It is more convenient to do this together. A nail is driven in under the ceiling 25-50 cm from the corner. From his head, using a plumb line, the vertical of the wall is installed and the second nail is driven in. Then repeat this procedure in another corner, driving in the 3rd and 4th nails, respectively. Pulling the cords over the nails, they drive in nails 5 and 6. Between 1 and 3 nails, 7, 8, etc. are driven in. depending on the length of the wall.

Focusing on them, using a plumb line, they determine the place for nails (screws) 9, 10, 11, 12. All these nails will become a kind of reference marks for installing ready-made beacons or when making them for plastering walls with your own hands. The order of work is shown in the schematic figure below.

Quite interestingly, the wizard installs beacons on the video:

Instead of nails, it is better to use dowels with self-tapping screws, which can be screwed in / unscrewed, as a stamps, flat plane. It should also be remembered that the distance between the beacons must be covered by the rule, i.e. the rule applied horizontally must always be supported by at least two beacons.

When installing ready-made beacons, their height should be taken into account, for example, a 3 mm high beacon "pushes" the future plane away from the wall at the same distance. To avoid this, the stamps are brought closer to the wall according to the height of the lighthouse.

Ready lighthouse rails are mounted as follows. A solution is applied between the brands and, as a rule, the beacon is pressed until it rests against them. Then, trying not to displace it, they gently grab it with a solution. To install the lighthouse, it is advisable to use the same mass with which you plan to plaster the wall.

The solution between the brands can be applied pointwise, but if the lighthouse rail is thin (3 mm), then it is better with a solid line. This will add rigidity to the beacon, and it will not sag under the rule. Excess solution along the lighthouse is removed and left alone until it dries completely.

You can install plaster beacons. To do this, a solution is applied along a vertical line between the marks, forming it in such a way that a triangle is formed in the section. Then press it with the end of the rule until it stops in the marks. After that, with a neat, smooth movement to the side up / down, the rule is removed, thereby forming a flat strip between the stamps, which will be a beacon.

With a spatula, remove the excess solution and allow the beacon to dry completely. Gypsum beacons are quite durable, but when using a cement-sand mortar, you can add a little tile glue to the mix for beacons. This will stiffen the beacon so it won't crumble under the rule.

Preparation of plaster mass

Plaster mixes, which are bought in bags, are almost ready for use. It is enough to add water. However, it should be remembered that the plaster should not be too thin or too tight, as both these extremes will not allow it to be applied and leveled correctly.

It is usually recommended to pour water to the bottom of the bucket, add dry mass and add water to the appropriate volume and mix with a mixer. The water content should be determined empirically, depending on the type of plaster used. In practice, after 3-4 buckets of plaster, the correct proportions are selected almost automatically.

Do not pour the dry mass into a bucket without water, as in this case a dry sticky crust will form at the bottom of the bucket, unsuitable for work.

The prepared plaster is useful for about 1-2 hours. It depends mainly on the room temperature (the higher the temperature, the faster the solution dries). It makes no sense to add water to the solution that has begun to set for the purpose of reuse. Plaster made from such a mass will not have satisfactory strength. It is better to throw it away in such a situation and mix smaller volumes during further work.

Plastering

It is easiest to apply gypsum plaster with a spatula, filling the space between the beacons with a slight surplus. Then it is leveled with the rule of bottom-up movements, leaning on the beacons. The voids are filled with the mass collected on the rule. Pick up the solution with a spatula, fill the recess and go through the rule again until a homogeneous surface is obtained on the same level with the beacons. The bumps are cut off with the sharp edge of the rule.

The technology of plastering walls on lighthouses with cement or cement-lime mortar is the same as without them. Pre-spray with a liquid solution using a ladle. The spray does not need to be leveled, as its task is to create a rough, rough base under the main layer of plaster. The only thing is that each beacon should be cleaned of the solution so that the subsequently dried solution does not interfere with work. A subsequent coat or primer may only be applied after the spray has dried.

The primer is applied with a scoop or trowel, filling the space between the beacons. With a ladle, the solution can be thrown directly from the box if you put it near the wall. After applying the solution, it is compared with the rule, relying on the lighthouses. The rule is supported on the beacons with its butt end, without tilting it. Having leveled the plaster mass, the sharp edge of the rule is passed along the wall, cutting off the bumps. Fill in the indentations and pits with a solution and pass again with the rule. Compaction of the plaster layer can be carried out with a half-trowel, semicircular movements.

The process of work is interestingly shown in the video -

The plaster can be applied mechanically using special machines. Nowadays, a similar method is being used more and more often, which significantly speeds up the work. The plaster is applied with a special nozzle, while it is necessary to constantly monitor the application parameters and thickness in order to avoid bulges on the wall surface.

Surface finish

The finishing works include, first of all, the plastering. After the soil has set, a cover is applied. The solution used is the same as for the base layer without impurities on sieved sand. It is advisable to pre-moisten the soil - this will facilitate the work. The cover is applied with a half-trowel - a thin layer of no more than 2 mm. Then, in a circular motion with a grater, the surface is brought to the final look.

Gypsum plaster is covered with a more liquid mass, applying it with a spatula "on the sder". In fact, this is already puttying. After the plaster has dried, it should be smoothed. For this purpose, you can use special floats with a sponge, and smoothing should be done in a circular motion. However, one should not be too zealous so as not to make indentations in the plaster.

Any finishing work on finished walls should be started no earlier than about 3-4 weeks after plastering. In practice, it is recommended to wait about 5-6 weeks, especially if the plaster layer is thick (more than 20 mm) or low temperatures prevail (below 10-15 degrees). Too hasty finishing work, such as painting, can ruin the final result.

Modern requirements for wall decoration are such that their surface should be not only durable, but also as flat as possible. It is this state of affairs that is the hallmark of the so-called. "European-quality repairs". A well-made base significantly facilitates finishing decorative work.

To make the surface even and smooth, two methods are used:

1. Leveling with plasterboard boards.
2. Application of a plaster layer.

The first option is considered cheaper and faster to implement. However, the resulting base cannot boast of special strength. As for the plaster, there are two ways to apply it: flat (only the rule) and by beacons. The flat method is used to design bases that do not have significant differences. In the presence of large irregularities, plaster is carried out along the lighthouses.

What should be the quality

SNiP III-21-73 contains indications of the level of quality of plastering work. It is recommended to take them into service in cases where hired workers are invited to carry out repairs.

There are three levels of plaster quality:

1. Simple. Vertical deviations of up to 3 mm / 1 m are allowed. At the same time, they should not exceed 15 mm along the entire height of the walls. In rooms with a standard height of 2.5 mm, this figure is within 7.5 mm. The presence of smooth drops of 5 mm up to 3 pieces is possible. / 4 m 2. Their height or depth should not exceed 5 mm. Horizontal deviation is allowed within 3 mm / 1 m.
2. Improved. Vertical deviations should not exceed 2 mm / 1 m (in total - no more than 10 mm). Smooth drops up to 3 mm can be found in an amount of up to 2 pcs. / 4 m 2. The limit of horizontal deviations is up to 2 mm.
3. High quality. Vertical deviations cannot exceed 1mm / 1m (up to 5mm in total). Irregularities are allowed in the amount of 2 pcs. / 4 m 2, with a depth of up to 2 mm. Horizontal error - up to 1 mm / 1 m.

Choice of plaster mix

A solution for plastering walls on lighthouses can be prepared independently, or you can buy it ready-made. The last option is more preferable, because such compositions are distinguished by the accuracy of proportions and the presence of plasticizers that facilitate the work.

Plaster solutions are of four types:

1. Lime. With its help, dry heated rooms are finished. Differs in durability and cheapness of ingredients.
2. Clay. Heat-resistant compound for the decoration of specific surfaces (stoves, fireplaces, etc.).
3. Cement. The main components are cement and sand. To improve performance, sometimes special additives are added to the composition. The resulting base is robust and compatible with most finishes.
4. Plaster. Plastic and environmentally friendly material with the ability to "breathe". It is gypsum plasters that are most often used for interior decoration because of the ease of application and speed of drying.

Modern builders use the following types of plaster beacons:

• Metallic. We are talking about small thickness galvanized metal profiles with perforations. They act as guides for the rule when plastering the walls. Usually they have a length of 300 m, with a width of 3, 6 and 10 mm. Metal restraints are fixed with screws. Their popularity is due to their cheapness and ease of use. There are also disadvantages: damage to the profile during installation leads to the appearance of rusty spots on the wall.
• Plaster. They make it possible to plaster walls with slight differences. The surface for plastering is equipped with holes with dowel screws. Using a spirit level, the screws are positioned at the desired height. On top of the hats, pieces of a metal profile or wooden strips are attached. They serve as limiters when laying plaster mortar islands, after which the profile is dismantled.
• Plastic. Analogs of metal guides, however, for their manufacture, not galvanized steel is used, but plastic of special strength.

Important: when plastering walls on plastic beacons, you should beware of hitting the rule on the profile so that cracks do not appear.

What is needed for plaster

To align the walls along the lighthouses with your own hands, you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

1. Plaster mortar (it is better to take a ready-made dry mixture).
2. Screws, screwdriver and hammer.
3. A drill (or perforator) with a mixing attachment for mixing plaster.
4. Building level, tape measure and plumb line.
5. Metal scissors for cutting lighthouse strips.
6. Rule, trowel, brush, roller, and spatula set.
7. Kneading vessel, work clothes.

Aligning the walls

After purchasing everything you need, you can start plastering the walls on the lighthouses with your own hands. The most important part is the installation of the lighthouse strips: the final result directly depends on its quality.

Preparation of the base

Aligning the walls with plaster on the lighthouses begins with preparatory measures. The room where the renovation is being carried out is recommended to be freed from furniture and other items. The surface of the wall is cleaned of old finishes, right down to the base. To remove old plaster, a punch or a hammer with a chisel will come in handy. It is more convenient to remove paint with solvents or a hairdryer; old wallpaper should be wet and cleaned with a spatula. Using a hammer, tap the entire area for weak areas (these places need to be knocked down). Next, a surface analysis is carried out using a building level to detect vertical deviations. Applying a long rule, mark with a marker all identified depressions and protrusions.

Marking for beacons

Beacons are installed before leveling the walls. The first and last profile is placed along the edges of the wall, at a distance of about 30 cm from the corners. A vertical plumb line is drawn on the surface. If the work is carried out with a 2 m rule, then a distance of about 160 cm is made between the individual slats.Therefore, the remaining area is divided by vertical lines into 160 cm sectors.To display the horizontal markings, an indent of 15-18 cm is made from the floor and a line is drawn at an angle of 90 degrees to vertical guides. The intersections are equipped with holes with dowels and self-tapping screws: the fishing line is pulled through them. In the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe ceiling, you need to beat off the second horizontal line, by analogy with the first: holes are also made at the points of its intersection with the vertical marking.

Important: the result of the procedure should be holes located in two lines. Self-tapping screws can be removed from the corner points.

Base primer

Before leveling the walls with plaster, they need to be primed. This increases the adhesion of the surface, removes dust and reduces the percentage of water absorption. First of all, this applies to porous brick and aerated concrete bases. It is recommended to treat smooth walls with "Betonokontakt", and porous ones - with deep penetration liquid.

While the primer is drying, both rows of holes are completed with self-tapping screws: the caps should be located in the same vertical plane. To check their evenness, a construction plumb line is used. It is important to ensure that the profiles do not stick out after installation. For control, a line is used, stretched diagonally through the screw heads. A test application of the beacon bar is carried out - it should fit freely. The positioning of the remaining dowels is carried out thanks to the second diagonal tape.

Installing a beacon profile

Lighthouses on the wall are mounted in this way:

1. The beacon bars should be slightly smaller in length than the distance between the screws. For cutting, metal scissors are used.
2. A small amount of plaster is required to fix the profiles. It is prepared in a plastic container by stirring a dry mixture with water. In terms of density, the solution is made such that, when typing, it does not slip off the spatula.
3. The plaster is applied along the lines so that there is no protrusion beyond the screw caps. To immerse the profile in the solution, it is convenient to use the rule: it should "sit" no deeper than the height of the caps. It is advisable to perform this procedure with an assistant.
4. To check the evenness of the installation of the lighthouse, use a long rule and level. The detected errors are eliminated. After that, all screws are removed.

Important: while the solution has not dried, the rule needs to be cleaned.

Laying plaster mortar

The technology for plastering walls on lighthouses is as follows:

• The dry mixture is poured with water and mixed. The exact proportions are usually indicated on the packaging. As the thickness of the leveling layer increases, it is recommended to make the mortar thicker.
• It is recommended to moisten porous substrates with water before laying the plaster: this protects the solution against rapid loss of moisture.
• First, the lighthouse plaster is applied in such a way that 10-15 mm remain to the level of the profiles. If you fill the entire volume at a time (at a height of more than 15 mm), then deep drying occurs unevenly. As a result, the solution will crack and crumble.
• After the first layer has completely dried, the second is applied. The mixture is applied with a small margin: this allows plastering along the lighthouses, moving the rule along them. The tool should slide from bottom to top, sharp edge down. To improve alignment, it can be wiggled slightly, but under no circumstances be torn from the guide profile. All the surplus removed is poured higher with a spatula.
• Corner shaping is carried out after tacking most of the plaster with a trowel or square trowel. This also applies to the area between the wall and the ceiling.
• After the surface has dried, it is better to remove metal profiles by gently prying them off with a screwdriver. The resulting voids in the finish are sealed with fresh mortar. Such an action is not difficult to implement, simply by smoothing them flush with the plane of the wall.

Important: it is allowed to leave lighthouses on the wall in two cases: if plastic strips are used, or if tiles will be laid on top.

Grout

Before the plaster is completely dry, it must be wiped off. This will require a more liquid solution and a trowel. It is more convenient to smooth out in small sectors (about 1 m 2), pre-moistening them with water. The mixture is scooped up with a trowel and rubbed over the surface with a thin layer. Next, this patch must be leveled to the general level using strong pressure (the tool is at an angle of 45 degrees). Smoothing continues until the bottom plane of the trowel is no longer covered with mortar. In the same way, step by step, the entire plastered area is rubbed. It is desirable to carry out this work without pauses.

Outcomes

Plastering the walls with your own hands with lighthouses is not a super difficult task. The main thing is to maintain the correct sequence of operations and not to rush, allowing each laid layer to dry well. It is recommended to use a division of labor where one person is mixing and the other is laying the mortar.

Plaster beacons

It is possible to carry out a good finishing of the room only on perfectly flat surfaces. For these purposes, plaster is usually used, as the most common and easy-to-use material. Such a process is quite simple and within the power of any novice master, and it can be facilitated by the installation of beacons for plaster. Products allow you to level the surface, minimizing possible deviation. That provides excellent coverage in the future.

Varieties of plaster beacons

Before thinking about how to install lighthouses under plaster, you should decide on their types. Depending on the specific situation, a certain variety is selected. Each type has its positive and negative sides.

Metal (factory) beacons

The most popular species with the following benefits:

• low cost and availability;
• ease of use;
• various sizes - 3.6 and 10 mm.

The disadvantages include their softness. In the process of transportation or sale, they are easy to bend, and it is not so easy to restore them. Due to their flexibility, profiles require additional rigidity during installation. For this, a solution is poured under them. Also, rusty streaks may appear on the wall. For these purposes, it is recommended to remove the beacons from the plaster, it is better to do this two weeks after leveling.

Advice! Thicker profiles are required for external work. For interior walls with a slight obstruction, 3 mm is sufficient.

Plastic profiles

In many ways they are similar to metal ones, but they have a number of characteristic features:

• easy installation, suitable even for an inexperienced craftsman;
• preservation of the original shape in case of accidental deformation;
• not prone to rust and oxidation, you can safely leave it in the wall.

Plastic is quite fragile and cracks from mechanical shock. Incorrect fastening can lead to deflection of the profile and, accordingly, to sagging of the finished surface.

Reusable steel profiles

Such beacons for plastering are often used by professionals. Reusable use allows for high cost recovery, but requires a more careful approach. Good rigidity and strength exclude deformation; for use, it is enough to fix the profile at several points. It is not rational to purchase such products for one-time repairs in an apartment due to the high price.

Note! The profiles are pulled out before the mortar has completely hardened, otherwise they can be broken or deformed.

Homemade lighthouses

A large assortment of store products does not reduce the popularity of homemade lighthouses. Their cost is much lower, and any materials at hand can be used. Often, a metal pipe or wooden block is taken to imitate a profile. A profile for drywall is also suitable.

Of the common methods, the following stand out:

1. Strings. A budget and simple option for putting beacons on the wall. All you need is wire and screws. This method is within the power of any beginner. Its disadvantage lies in the possible curvature of the surface due to the incorrect position of the screws.
2. Mortar. This method is used by experienced plasterers. The point is to set self-tapping screws and then apply the solution in a continuous strip. The strip is made as narrow as possible and aligned with the rule. This process requires care and accuracy from the performer. But despite its complexity, this method significantly saves the mixture and does not need to further remove the products.

Note! Homemade beacons for plastering walls need an increased amount of solution for leveling surfaces.

Intermediate beacons

When it is necessary to display plaster beacons on large areas, there is a need for intermediate beacons. They are attached between the main ones or where the usual ones cannot be installed. For example, pipes interfere. Their installation is carried out only after the main products have dried. Do not forget about keeping the level with the center lines.

Marking for beacons

Surface marking is a mandatory procedure before installation. This can be done in several ways.

Simple method

When placing beacons for plaster on the solution, you must perform the following steps:

1. Draw vertical lines along the edges of the wall, making an indent of 30 cm and 15 cm from the corner.
2. Measure the distance between the marks and divide by 1–1.5 m, the extracted number is the number of future beacons. Cut the profiles to length, they should be 30 cm less than the ceiling height.
3. Holes are made on the drawn lines above and below, dowels are driven in. Further, the surface is drawn with lines at a distance of 1–1.5 m from each other.
4. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the installed dowels at the extreme marks, threads are pulled between the caps. At the points of intersection of the threads with the marked lines, marks are made with a marker, then dowels with self-tapping screws are installed.
5. The caps of the self-tapping screws are leveled. To begin with, the indicator of the wall blockage is measured and added. Let's say the blockage distance is 0.9 cm, the profile thickness is 0.3 cm and 0.5 cm is always taken in reserve. As a result, 1.7 cm comes out, the gap for the indentation of the fasteners from the alignment surface.
6. Having adjusted all the screws, the threads are pulled diagonally and held by a beacon under the formed plane. If everything is done correctly, the product barely touches the threads.

It is important! Installation of plaster beacons is the most important point. The quality of the finished work will depend on the accuracy of the work performed.

Spider method

Beacon profiles are installed without measuring devices. This method is distinguished by its accuracy and the ability to calculate the optimal thickness of the plaster layer. For the installation of profiles, the following manipulations are carried out:

1. Drill holes for the dowels along the edges of the surface with a distance of 15 cm from the ceiling, from corner 5. Drive in the dowels, leaving a distance of 5 cm from the wall.
2. Identical holes are made from below, but plumb clamps are already installed in them. The holes must be precisely positioned one under the other.
3. A plumb line is tied at a distance of 2 cm from the wall. After it has come to a complete stop, the exact location of the plumb line is marked on the clamp, and the thread is tied at this place.
4. Two vertical lines are obtained, to which horizontal threads are tied with the further possibility of moving them.
5. By adjusting the longitudinal threads, the maximum blockage of the wall is revealed, the thickness of the beacon and a margin of 0.5 cm are added to it.

Note! When mounting beacons to level the walls with a simple method, self-tapping screws remain on the surface, with the help of them, the profile is subsequently exposed. With the "spider" method, there is a need to take measurements with a tape measure.

Laser level

1. Determine the blockage of the wall with the level. It is necessary to position the device against the opposite wall and turn on the cross-level.
2. Focusing on the laser mark, mark vertical lines on the wall, with the indicated indents.
3. Set the level 40 cm from the corner and turn on the vertical line.
4. Determine a place with a minimum distance to the wall, for example 38 cm.
5. On a 0.5 m long rail, mark a point 39 cm from the edge (the gap from the line to the wall, the thickness of the beacon and the margin).
6. Apply glue to the marked lines and press the product with a strip until the mark coincides with the laser line.

How to properly install beacons under plaster

There are only two options for attaching lighthouses under plaster:

• solution;
• on special mounts.

Installation on solution

For fixing, you need the products themselves, a level and a cement mortar. The process itself can be divided into several significant stages.

Installation of beacons on the walls using special fasteners

The following tools are taken for installation:

• a thread;
• self-tapping screws with dowels;
• building level;
• drill;
• directly lighthouses.

First, vertical marking is performed - lines are marked over the entire surface with an interval of 1–1.5 m. The beginning is taken from the corner, with an indent from the edge of the wall 20 cm. A plumb line, building or laser level is always used.

On the extreme lines, holes are drilled at intervals of 30 cm, dowels are driven in and screws are slightly screwed in. Their hats are leveled, and fasteners for lighthouses under the plaster are installed on top. It remains to insert the product into this fastener. A thread is pulled between the received beacons, all other fasteners are adjusted along it.

Note! This method allows you to reduce the consumption of plaster to a minimum and very accurately adjust the beacons.

Output

So that the subsequent repair process does not bring unnecessary trouble, it is worth strictly following the technique of work at the preparatory stage. With the necessary efforts, accuracy and precision, you can independently achieve high results. Installation of beacons for plastering walls will be within the power of any beginner.

Plaster beacons are narrow metal profiles with holes that are used to create even surfaces. Plastering of walls on beacons can be carried out without using these elements - they are replaced with gypsum beacons, which are formed independently. This is a rather complicated process that is not recommended for beginner inexperienced craftsmen. But it allows you to apply a thin layer of plaster (less than 6 mm).

Lighthouse plaster requires some tools and consumables. To conduct this event, you will need the following:

1. Plaster itself, primer, beacons.
2. Dowels and screws for wood.
3. Perforator and mixer attachment for making mortar. You will also need a set of drills.
4. Building level and plumb line.
5. Screwdriver and hammer.
6. Metal scissors, grinder.
7. Rule, trowel, paint brush or roller, spatulas.
8. Mixing bowl, protective gloves, tape measure.

At first glance, the list may seem too long, but the master may already have all these tools and materials, the most important thing is the presence of a puncher, everything else is inexpensive.

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Preparatory work

The first step is to clean the room of everything that might interfere, and then remove the old coating. The plaster is knocked down with a perforator with a chisel, paints are removed with solvents, the wallpaper is soaked and scraped off with spatulas. Then you need to tap the surface with a hammer to detect weak fragments, if there are any, then you need to remove them.

Further, it is necessary to carefully examine the surface, regularly applying a building level to it to determine the deviation from the vertical. After that, you need to walk across the area with a long rule to identify all depressions and protrusions, each of which should be marked with a marker.

Removing old coatings is an important step in preparing the surface for plastering.

Now you can start marking. For an illustrative example, let's take a wall 4.5 m long, 2.75 m high.This structure has a doorway of 0.9x2.05 m. You should step back 30 cm from the corners and draw two strictly vertical lines using a building level. The distance between the lighthouse profiles should be 160 cm, so that it is convenient to level the plaster with a rule of 2.5 m long.From the line near the right corner, you need to retreat 160 cm and draw the same vertical line. 2.3 m of the wall remain unmarked. This distance should be divided in half, and then draw the remaining lines at intervals of 115 cm.

Then you should again tackle the extreme lines. Beacons should be slightly shorter than the rule. The standard length of this tool is 2.5 m, so the permissible length of the beacons is 2.45 m. Since the ceiling height in this case is 2.75 m, then you should step back 15 cm from the floor and ceiling, then drill holes at these points and drive in dowels with self-tapping screws. Then pull two threads between the drilled holes. At the intersection of the thread with other drawn lines, mark with a marker. At the end, you need to drill holes at the intersections, drive dowels into them, but you do not need to screw in the screws yet. As a result, you should get 2 horizontal lines of holes, going clearly in a row.

Wall markings for the installation of plaster beacons

Plastering surfaces on beacons requires preliminary priming of the surface. This operation ensures that the solution is in close contact with the surface. For smooth non-porous coatings, Betonkontakt is suitable; for hydrophilic coatings, a deep-acting primer is required. The primer is applied with a paint roller or brush, this should be done 2 times with an interval of 4 hours. Work continues only after the surfaces are completely dry. You need to do the following:

• Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the corner holes. Suppose the wall is evenly filled up by 1.5 cm, in which case the distance between the cap and the wall should be about 2.5 cm. This distance includes the wall blockage, 0.4 cm of the stock and 0.6 cm of the lighthouse thickness.
• When the screws are screwed in, you need to check them using the rule. The tool is applied to the caps of the upper and lower fastener. As a result, the rule should be strictly vertical, otherwise the depth of the self-tapping screws should be adjusted.
• Then you need to make sure that the beacons for plastering the walls with your own hands will be installed correctly. To do this, you need to tie the diagonal thread to two opposite self-tapping screws.
• Then you should take the lighthouse and hold it along the wall under the thread. The product should not touch the thread, if this happens - you need to screw in a little or, on the contrary, unscrew the corner screws.
• The same procedure must be repeated for the second pair of corner screws.
• Then pull the thread between the upper and lower self-tapping screws, and also hold a beacon under them. The product should touch the thread slightly.
• At the end, you will get 8 carefully calibrated holes with self-tapping screws.

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Mount beacons

Before you put up the beacons for plaster, you need to make a plaster mortar. It should be the same as you plan to use for the entire cultivated area. If a gypsum solution is used, then it is prepared in small portions. Cement and lime mixtures are infused for 15 minutes before application. At this time, you need to cut off the beacons. For ease of installation, it is better to make a length of 2.4 m so that they do not slightly reach the screws.

Plaster is applied to the line so that it protrudes slightly above the screws. After that, the beacon is pressed into the solution so that it is level with the heads of the fasteners. This is how all beacons are installed. At the end, you can unscrew the screws. After installing the beacons, you need to check the work done with the building level.

Installed beacons must be checked again with a building level.

Plaster preparation

One of the most popular is a cement-sand mortar, for its manufacture it is necessary to do the following:

• Mix 1: 3.
• Pour in a small amount of water and stir.
• Bring the solution to the consistency of thick sour cream with a liquid.

On a note! Self-prepared plaster will differ significantly from the factory one. During the manufacture of the latter, special additives are used that significantly increase the performance characteristics of the finished coating, therefore it is recommended to buy ready-made dry mixes.

Preparation of plaster solution

Lime and cement based mortar:

• Cement is mixed with sand in proportions of 1: 3.
• At the end, the components are mixed.

Gypsum plaster with lime added:

• Gypsum is mixed with water until a thick homogeneous mass is obtained.
• Lime is mixed with water 1: 1.
• 1 part of the plaster dough is mixed with 3 parts of the lime dough.

Important! Only slaked lime can be added to plaster mortars. Quicklime will continue to react with water, first in the container, and then on the walls, causing the coating to crack.

Only slaked lime is added to cement-lime mortars.

Plastering

Do-it-yourself wall plastering consists of 3 stages:

Important! It is possible to start subsequent decorative work (painting, wallpapering, tiling) only after the surfaces are completely dry. Depending on the type of material, it can take up to 28 days.

At this stage, the plastering on the lighthouses is complete, but the corners, as well as the areas near the floor and ceiling, remain untreated. These are rather narrow stripes, so the solution is applied and smoothed with an ordinary spatula. The application technology is no different, only the evenness of the corners must be checked with a metal corner.

Plastering walls on lighthouses with your own hands is a rather complicated and time-consuming process, so if you have the slightest doubts about your abilities, it is better not to try to save money, but immediately contact the specialists.