How to build a hipped roof yourself. Hipped roof

Complex roofs draw special attention to the architecture of the building. Four-pitched roofs are popular in the construction of country houses. Four slopes located in different planes give the dwelling a respectable look. Most often, slopes are made in different shapes: two of them are triangular and act as pediments, two are in the shape of a trapezoid.

Design advantages

The installation of a hip or hip roof, in addition to an aesthetic appearance, has practical advantages:

in the attic, surrounded by a roof on all sides, a comfortable temperature is maintained;
the structure of the rafters is strong and durable;
high resistance to wind and precipitation;
the space under the roof can be used for the attic.

Types of hipped roofs

Having a common basis, the subspecies of such coatings differ somewhat in execution:

- the classic version with two triangular hips and two trapezoidal slopes.
Half-hip - triangular slopes have a shortened shape, this design is performed for the equipment of the attic.
Hip - has the shape of a pyramid with triangular slopes. Suitable for a square building.

Design

The angle of inclination for the slopes is selected based on the recommendations of the manufacturers of roofing material and natural features. For a soft roll roof, an angle of up to 18 degrees is sufficient, an angle of 15-60 degrees is suitable for slate, and an angle of 30 to 60 degrees should be laid underneath.

The amount of precipitation in winter is of great importance, if there is a significant amount of snow, then it is better to choose steep slopes, on which precipitation lingers less.

When designing a rafter system, it is necessary to take into account a lot: the cross-section of the timber, the length of the rafters, the size of the run, the step of installing the elements. All possible loads on the roof are clarified at the design stage, they include:

weight of the selected roofing;
annual precipitation;
weight of insulation and waterproofing;
a device on the roof of various equipment (antennas, lights, windows, etc.);

In addition to the inherent loads, the roof of the house must have a margin of safety that guarantees the stability of the structure in an unforeseen situation. For the construction of the rafter system, timber and boards are used. If there is a need to strengthen the elements, the boards are doubled.

Before starting work, all lumber is treated with an antiseptic.

Sequence of work

Roof installation begins with fixing the supporting base - Mauerlat. This is a bar with a section of 150 × 150 mm, which is laid along the perimeter of the walls. Its horizontal placement is controlled by the level. The timber should not be at the edge of the wall, you need to leave a distance of 5–7 cm. The Mauerlat is fastened to studs embedded in the masonry, which are tightened with nuts. This beam allows you to connect the rafter system and the walls of the house into a common structure.

For the installation of the racks, you will need a floor or floor beams. These elements are made of 100 × 200 mm beams or double planks. All supports are installed strictly vertically and are attached to the bed with a metal corner or plate. For a hip roof, the racks are installed in one line, a ridge girder is attached to them. When erecting a hipped roof type, the supports are placed diagonally, equal distances are laid from the corner. As a result, they form a rectangle on which the purlins fit. Fastening is done with corners.

The side rafters are installed after pattern processing. A thin board is taken as a workpiece, applied to the girder and the gash is noted. The second end rests against the Mauerlat and the lower gash is outlined. The required number of rafters is prepared according to the template and installed with the selected fastening step, it can be from 60 cm to 1 meter. With the girder and the base, the connection is made with staples or self-tapping screws.

Oblique rafters with a ridge run form the angle of inclination of the slopes. These rafters are placed diagonally and carry an additional load, so they use double boards. The rafters are washed down according to a template, their length takes into account the overhang of 50 cm. In the upper part, the rafters are connected with a crossbar to give strength. When installing a hipped roof, the rafters are connected in the ridge knot with the help of puffs. The rafters are installed at an angle of 90 degrees and are certainly connected to the walls with wire clamps.

Short rafters or rafters are attached to the diagonal rafters. They are of different lengths, but must be parallel to each other. Narodniks, together with ordinary rafters, form side slopes. For the tent model, the installation of the cribs and the fastening of racks, struts and trusses is also the final stage of construction.

To relieve the load from the diagonal rafters, trusses are installed under them. These are vertical supports that rest on the beds. The side rafters are secured with struts. One of the horses of the board rests on the bed, and the second is cut off at 45 degrees and attached to the rafter leg.

Lathing and insulation

Completing the construction of the roof will allow its insulation with basalt wool or foamed polystyrene. The material is laid between the rafters. Protection of the roof from moisture will be provided by a layer of waterproofing. The dimensions of the lathing depend on the type of roofing, soft tiles look attractive on the hip type, they need a continuous lathing.

Watching a video explaining the nuances of installing rafters will help to conduct the construction correctly.

Video

See how the rafter system is installed:

Many are attracted by the spectacular and non-standard look of the hipped roof. Therefore, the question of how to build a four-pitched roof correctly is constantly in the focus of attention of those who start building a roof or repair it. But I must admit, to build such a roof will have to make a little effort.

Everything in construction begins with planning the necessary actions, therefore, first, they give their outlines of how to make a hipped roof to paper.

Hipped roof project: calculation of all parameters

Before creating a project of such a roof, you will need to determine its shape, take measurements and calculate all the necessary parameters. They begin construction directly, already having in their hands a drawing of the construction of the future roof, on which all the required information will be marked in details - the angle of inclination of the hipped roof, construction, length, step, the order of assembly of rafters, the location and number of additional supporting parts, and more.

The key to the success of the construction of a hipped roof in an accurate and detailed plan, therefore, this stage can most likely be considered one of the most important.

The calculation of a hipped roof can be carried out using special programs posted on the Internet. But if you have not forgotten the basics of school geometry, you can do it differently - draw a prototype of your future roof on paper and use the simplest geometric shapes to calculate rafters, beams, the amount of material to cover and much more.

We start from the angle of inclination of the hipped roof

The theoretical one first determines the angle of inclination of the hipped roof, taking into account the characteristics of the climate of this zone, especially since the height of the hipped roof also depends on its value. According to the rules, for areas with heavy rainfall, the slope is increased (correspondingly, the consumption of all materials will also increase).

Having determined the slope, the next step mathematically deduces the height of the ridge, multiplying half the width of the span of the structure by the relative value (I take its value from special tables according to the angle of inclination). For example, for a 30 ° slope, the value of the relative value is 0.59, for a 25 ° slope it is 0.47.

Rafters of a hipped roof is a system consisting of two types of rafter trusses: typical trusses with ramps connected in the ridge, and lateral triangular rafters, abutting the upper point against the ridge. Thus, at the end points of the ridge, three rafters are joined: one central and two from the main slopes.

Quite simply, you can calculate the central location of the ridge of a four-pitched roof in the center: measure the length of the ridge, the length of the walls parallel to which it will be located, and calculate their difference. Dividing the difference in half, postpone the result from the edges of the parallel walls.

It is important that there is a right angle between the skate and the rails to automatically ensure that the corner skates are correctly positioned.

location of the skate in the center

The calculation of these parameters of the hip roof can be made easier if you first mark the joints of the walls and rafters. The attachment points for the side rafter triangles can be determined by dividing the length of the transverse wall in half.

Installation of a hipped roof: precision and strength

Roof installation begins with the installation of rafter legs and trusses, according to preliminary calculations and marks. Farms are harvested according to a template. Various additional elements help to achieve the rigidity of each of them, as well as the entire structure as a whole: headstock, struts, crossbars, sprengels with a rack, racks.

How to make a hipped roof will not be too difficult if you follow the finished project and follow the correct order of work performed.

Work begins with laying a paving or log Mauerlat structure (in the case of timber rafters) - a more common option in private construction. If you intend to use metal rafters, the Mauerlat is made of metal profile material. The Mauerlat is securely anchored to the walls using appropriate anchors.

It is important that high-quality waterproofing is provided between the base and the wall.

If necessary, a transverse beam is also installed, which will become a support for the racks and, accordingly, the ridge girder attached to them. When installing a ridge, it is necessary to strictly maintain its "horizon" and height, therefore, when installing it, it is imperative to use a plumb bob and a rail. Racks for the ridge are fixed with jibs.

By installing diagonal rafters, the planes of the slopes of the future roof are formed. The main requirement in this case is the exact same length of the rafters and a perfectly flat plane of each resulting slope. At the same time, the size of the overhang is also laid. Its average value is about half a meter.

In open areas where a strong gusty crosswind is possible, it is advisable to increase the size of the overhang (up to 1 m).

The insertion of elements in complex nodes requires special attention. For example, three elements are joined to the end of the ridge at once: diagonal rafters (2 pcs.), Central rafters (2 pcs.) And a central (ordinary) hip rafter (1 pc.). To perform this knot, a special undercut (double bevel) is made on the ridge bar.

At a further stage, angular rafters are mounted strictly parallel to the ordinary rafters. In this case, the beggars of the neighboring, main and hip, slopes should be docked with the rafter rafter in different places. For the joints of the "diagonals" with the rafters, a regular cut or support bar is used, which is sewn on both sides to the diagonal rafter.

Installation of a hipped roof also includes a lathing device for a roof covering. Whether it will be solid or sparse from boards, bars or poles depends on the chosen material for the roof.

The hip (hipped) roof gives the house a sophisticated look. The special design of the roof allows you to additionally protect the structure itself, its walls from moisture. Therefore, the construction of a roof with four slopes is optimal for regions with high rainfall and strong winds.

The first stage in the construction of a roof is to determine the purpose of the roof (covers the attic floor, attic, etc.), the choice of roof material (depending on this, a list of materials for construction will be determined), taking into account the atmospheric conditions of the place where the roof will be used (wind, rain , snow).

Choosing a hip roof will make the structure more resistant to rain and make it more durable (the rafter system is more reliable). The main difference between this type of roof and a gable roof is that it has two triangular roof slopes instead of side gables.

When choosing the angle of inclination of the slopes, one should take into account the level of precipitation and the wind characteristics of the terrain. With low and medium average annual precipitation, it is recommended to choose an angle in the range of 4-40 degrees. With heavy snowfalls and lingering rains, the recommended optimal slope angle of the slopes is within 40-60 degrees.

The roofing material can be: roll roofing, tiles or metal tiles.

Depending on all of the above nuances, the thickness and other parameters of the wooden component of the hipped roof will be selected.

The end result of the first stage is the creation of a scheme for the future roof, on the basis of which the construction will be carried out.

We will describe the further technology of how to make a hipped roof with our own hands.

The second stage is to build the base for the roof. The base is used to evenly distribute the load from the roof to the load-bearing walls. The construction of a hipped roof assumes a base that you can build on your own - a wooden Mauerlat and beds. Waterproofing is required under the base to extend the life of the roof. A Mauerlat is placed on the hydro-barrier along the outer contour of the building (the size of this bar varies, either 100x150 mm, or 50x150 mm.).

Legs - a bar located in the plane of the base of the rafter system at the same distance from the two side Mauerlats. It serves as a supporting element for struts and struts, therefore it is laid on load-bearing partitions (see drawings of a hipped roof). Large roof structures can provide several beds.

The third stage is the direct installation of the roof frame (base, rafters, lathing).

The construction of a roof in a house with or without existing ceilings is structurally different (in this case, there is no need to lay the floor beams on which the supports will be installed).

The installation of the racks (vertical supports of the roof frame) should be approached with special care. The installation angle (90 degrees) must be precisely maintained. At the slightest deviation, further deformation of the roof is possible. The step of mounting the racks is up to two meters.

The device of the hipped roof of the house consists of four planes (slopes). Two trapezoidal and two triangular. Trapezoidal rafters will be formed by side rafters, hip (triangular rafters) - by slant (diagonal) rafters.

The support of the rafters at the top of the frame is carried out into the ridge beam (girder). This bar goes on top of the vertical posts (groove connection with the posts is possible). The distance between the rafters is from 50 to 150 cm (according to the roof plan). The recommended width of the rafter board is 150 mm.

The frame is fastened using corners and steel plates with self-tapping screws (nails). To strengthen the resulting structure, diagonal supports, struts, wind beams are used. They allow you to increase the load capacity of the system.

Waterproofing is laid on top of the rafters. Then a counter-lattice is made (bars that are attached to the rafters over the waterproofing). It is needed to create a ventilation duct between the roofing material, lathing and waterproofing. This will allow moisture to be removed quickly and efficiently. Next, the lathing is performed - the horizontal boards are attached from the bottom to the very top to the counter-lattice (see the diagram of the hipped roof device).

The last step is the installation of the roofing material. Installation is carried out depending on the parameters of the material. An example of metal tile installation.

Thus, the installation of a hipped roof is a rather laborious process that requires a careful approach. For a deeper understanding of the building, you should view photo and video materials.

DIY video of the construction of a hipped roof

Hip roof rafter hip roof system Richten 2
Building a house from aerated concrete 2. Day 45-46. Hip roof. Rafters. Everything according to the mind
Building a house from aerated concrete 2. Day 47. How is the roof attached to the self-supporting insulated ceiling? Everything in mind
Building a house from aerated concrete 2. Day 48-50. Roof, jibs, filly, insulation. Everything according to the mind
Building a house from aerated concrete 2. Day 51. Roof. Installation of Tyvek membrane. Lathing. Everything according to the mind
We are standing a house made of aerated concrete 2. Day 53-57. Installation of metal tiles and gutters. Everything in mind

Roofs with four slopes are more robust and more resistant to stress. Such a design is much more complicated than a conventional gable, and installation takes more time. And yet, a do-it-yourself hipped roof is a completely feasible task, if you properly prepare and study in detail the intricacies of its device.

Do-it-yourself hipped roof

Roof design

The hipped roof has many variations. The simplest design consists of 2 trapezoidal slopes connected in the center of the roof, and 2 triangular slopes from the side of the gables. Sometimes all four slopes are made triangular, then the edges of the roof converge at a central point. More complex designs involve broken lines, a combination of short ramps with gables, built-in straight and slanted windows, and multi-level ramps.

Hipped roof

Without appropriate experience, it is impossible to build a rafter system of this configuration, therefore it is better to pay attention to the standard hip roof.

Hipped roof project

Hip roof structure

The slope of the slopes can have an angle of 5 to 60 degrees. To calculate the optimal slope value, the following factors must be taken into account:

functionality of the attic;
type of roofing;
atmospheric loads in the region.
Roof layout

For arranging the attic, gentle slopes are not suitable, since they take up too much free space. Therefore, if the attic is planned in the project of the house, the angle of inclination of the roof should be from 45 degrees and higher. You can choose the angle of inclination depending on the type of roofing using the table.

Atmospheric loads are also of great importance. Where a lot of snow falls, you cannot make a slope less than 30 degrees, otherwise the rafter system will not withstand the loads. If the angle of inclination is more than 60 degrees, the snow load can be ignored. In addition to these factors, you should consider the location of objects such as water tanks or ventilation chambers. They are usually suspended from the rafters and put additional stress on them. After preliminary calculations, you can start drawing up a drawing of the rafter system.

Materials for roof installation

Like a gable roof, a hip roof consists of a Mauerlat, puffs, rafters, support posts, a ridge beam and a lathing. The difference between the second design is the location of the rafters and their length. For a four-pitched roof, it is recommended to use pine or larch lumber of good quality, without defects, with a maximum moisture content of 22%.

Mounting the Mauerlat to the wall

Rafters are made of boards with a section of 50x100 mm; if the roof area is very large, it is better to take boards of 50x200 mm. For the Mauerlat, a solid bar with a cross section of at least 150x150 mm is needed. Additionally, you will need metal studs with threads for attaching the Mauerlat, boards for the lathing and overhead metal plates, with the help of which the wooden elements are connected.

Metal studs with thread for mounting the Mauerlat

Before assembling the roof, lumber must be impregnated with an antiseptic.

In the process, you will need tools:

hacksaw;
building level;
plumb line and tape measure;
hammer;
drill;
screwdriver;
chisel;
Circular Saw.

Rafter system installation technology

Mauerlat laying

Step 1. Laying the Mauerlat

Mauerlat laying

In houses from a bar, the functions of a mauerlat are performed by the last crown of a log house, in which special grooves are cut out for rafters. In brick houses, the Mauerlat is laid on the walls along the perimeter of the box, having previously fixed threaded metal studs between the bricks of the last rows. To more accurately mark the holes for fasteners, the bar is lifted and placed on top of the tips of the studs, and then hit with a hammer. After that, clear marks remain on the tree, along which holes are drilled.

Mounting the Mauerlat to the wall

Having removed the timber for drilling, the surface of the walls is covered with one or two layers of waterproofing material, usually roofing material. It is placed directly on the pins and pushed downwards. Next, the Mauerlat is laid, aligning the holes with the pins, leveling horizontally and tightening the nuts tightly onto the thread. At the corners, the bars are connected with metal plates or staples. After fixing, the beam should not move even by a millimeter, because the reliability of the entire rafter system depends on it.

Mounting the Mauerlat to the wall

Step 2. Installing the racks

If the house does not have a central load-bearing wall, it is necessary to lay the support beam perpendicular to the load-bearing floor beams. Connect two boards with a section of 50x200 mm, leaving a gap of 50 mm between them. To do this, insert short 50 mm thick bars between the boards and nail them down. The distance between the bars is about 1.5 m, at the ends of the beams are not fastened. Having measured the middle of the attic, the support beam is laid so that its ends extend beyond the boundaries of the Mauerlat by 10-15 cm.

Now they take 3 boards 50x150 mm, cut them to the height of the roof, use a plumb line to install them on a support beam. Each post should rest against the beam where the boards are joined by the bar. The racks are temporarily reinforced with jibs made of beams. The top of the racks is connected with a ridge beam, which is used as a board of 50x200 mm.

Step 3. Attaching the center rafters

Fastening the rafters

They take a rafter board and attach it with one end to the ridge beam, and the other to the Mauerlat from the front side of the building. Immediately adjust the length of the eaves overhang, cut off the excess. With a pencil, mark the lines of the cuts, after which the upper end of the board is cut off and a groove is made in the Mauerlat by 1/3 of the rafter width. The board is nailed to the ridge, the lower edge is inserted into the groove on the Mauerlat and fixed with metal plates.

In the same way, the rest of the rafters are made and installed with a step of 60 cm from the facade of the house. The outer boards should be located perpendicular to the ridge beam and be attached to its ends. On the opposite side of the building, everything is done in the same way. On the hips, there is only one rafter on each side: the board is placed on the edge and attached with the upper end to the ridge beam, and the lower end is inserted between the boards of the support beam and fixed with nails.

Step 4. Fastening the corner rafters

Installation of the rafter system of a hipped roof

For the manufacture of corner rafters, two boards with a section of 50x150 mm are usually connected. In one of the upper corners of the box, at the junction point of the Mauerlat beams, a nail is driven in and a thin cord is tied on it. At the junction point of the ridge and the central rafter from the side of the hip, a nail is also driven in, a cord is pulled to it and fixed. This is how the line of diagonal, or corner, rafters is designated. They must be the same length, otherwise the roof will be uneven. The prepared rafter is lifted up, placed along the markings and connected to the ridge bar and the Mauerlat. The rafter overhang is approximately 50-70 cm.

Step 5. Installation of wives

To fix the diagonal rafters, use rafters - shortened rafters, abutting the lower end against the Mauerlat and located at right angles to the ridge bar. They are attached in 60 cm increments, starting from the outermost ordinary rafter. As you get closer to the diagonal, the women make everything shorter. Now it is necessary to strengthen the structure with ties and braces, as well as install additional vertical supports.

If the length of the span under the diagonal rafter is more than 7 m, you need to install another support at a distance of a quarter of the span from the corner of the attic. The lower end of the upright must rest on the floor joist. In the case when the beam is farther than the designated place or is completely absent, instead of a vertical rack, a truss is attached - a horizontal jumper made of a bar, the ends of which are nailed to the wedges.

Step 5. Installation of the battens

Step of the lathing for corrugated board

When all the supports are installed, you can fill the crate. For a gable roof, the lathing is performed in the same way as for a gable roof. First, a waterproofing membrane is attached, separately on each slope. The joints are carefully glued with tape, and then thin strips are stuffed over the membrane to ensure an air gap. Boards are stuffed in increments of up to 40 cm, depending on the type of roof, and always perpendicular to the rafters.

Installation of roof battens

This completes the assembly of the rafter system. It remains only to insulate the structure, lay the roof covering, mount the wind bars and sheathe the overhangs. To make the hipped roof look more stylish, it is recommended to install inclined or straight windows on the slopes.

Video - Do-it-yourself hipped roof

Friends, we hope that this information will be really interesting and useful to you !!!

People who have started the construction of a structure should have an idea of what is needed for what, what parts the structure consists of, what materials they will need and how much this or that material costs.

Before starting construction, you need to develop a building plan and indicate all the parameters. Consider one of the important details of the structure and this will be the roof.

Hipped roof structure

There are several types of roofs, the most aesthetic and durable is the hipped roof.

Such a roof will withstand strong winds, snowfalls and heavy rainfall. A four-pitched roof may not be complex in design and has some elements.

The hipped roof differs from the gable roof in external data and in design. In terms of construction, the four-slope is somewhat more complicated, but for small buildings you can build it yourself.

The standard hip roof has trapezoidal ramps and triangular ramps.

Semi-hip - two trapezoidal slopes, two cut hip. This design makes it possible to equip an attic with large windows in the attic.

The hip roof differs from the hip roof.

The complex four-slope has attic windows, valleys.

The construction of this roof can only be done by professionals, or take a project with calculations of materials.

A gable roof includes the same details as a gable roof, but due to some complexity of the structure, additional frame details are required for its construction.

Details of the hipped roof:

Mauerlat is a timber placed on the upper part of the main walls;

The beds are supporting beams that are located inside and laid on load-bearing walls;

Rafters are diagonal, slant or side beams;

Sprengels and racks are supports that support the rafter structure;

A run or ridge beam is a horizontal support for rafters located on top of the roof;

Crossbars and braces are horizontal parts that connect the side rafters;

Narodniks are parts that are placed on diagonal rafters;

Wind beams and struts are struts that increase the strength of the roof;

Fillets are planks that form the desired overhang of the roof.

The design of the roof determines which parts can be used in construction, for example, cornices over windows or a porch, lathing.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to calculate the amount of raw materials, it will also be determined what the roof will be in size and shape, then make a drawing.

Construction technology.

To distribute the load of the rafter system and external factors, a Mauerlat and beds are laid on the main walls.

For them, a bar with a section of 100 × 150 mm or 150 × 120 mm is used, in some cases, reinforced concrete beams are laid.

Installation of the rafter group and lathing

On an ordinary hipped roof, the side rafters are placed in the same way as the sent rafters on a gable roof.

A board with a width identical to the width of the rafter board (150 mm) is applied to the ridge bar in the place where the extreme post is located and a template is made along it.

The distance between the rafters should be between 0.5 and 1.5 m.

Diagonal rafters are made of two connected boards, so they carry an increased load. A blank for diagonal rafters is performed in the above way.

The cuts on the boards for diagonal rafters must be made at an angle of 45 degrees to the plane of the board, since from below they rest on the corner of the Mauerlat, and from above on the stand. Narodniks fill the gaps between the diagonal rafters on the hip slopes.

We make the crate

Cover the hipped roof, possibly with any available material.

When overlapping complex roofs, a soft roof, in this case, it is necessary to make a sheathing of plywood.

The roof insulation depends on the layout of the house and other factors; it must be done according to the rules

Building a gable roof is not easy, but if you have the carpentry skills, the necessary skills, the tools and a couple of friends who are ready to come to your aid, this task will be within your power.

For your structure, you can choose a different type of roof, and the hipped roof is ideal for a large house.

But before starting any construction, you will need to get ahead of what exactly you want to build and what the structure should be, allocate funds and determine the approximate time for construction.

The main thing is to have the strength, desire and means. We wish you good luck and inspiration!

Most often, a four-pitched roof for a house is chosen because of its visual appeal, not considering that this structure has other advantages: the ability to withstand large wind loads, increase the level of protection of walls from moisture, and allow you to equip living quarters in the attic space.

Four stingrays are considered the best option for regions with strong winds and high rainfall. When deciding to build a hipped roof on your own, it is necessary to take into account that this structure is Requires accurate drawings and increased attention when measuring and marking.

Do-it-yourself hipped roof. Photo

Preparatory work

The main difference between a four-slope (hip) roof with four slopes from a structure with two slopes is that there is no need for side gables. The four-slope structure consists of two trapezoidal and two triangular slopes, the latter replacing the pediments.

Under the roof, there can be just an attic room or a residential attic. The construction of a hipped roof begins with the definition of its purpose and the selection of materials, taking into account climate features... It is important to take into account the amount of precipitation and the strength of the wind when choosing the angles of the slopes, the thickness of the materials for the wooden components and the type of roof.

Important! The slope of the slopes can vary from 5 to 60 °. The stronger the winds and more rainfall, the greater the slope.

The wood components should be thicker than for a gable structure. If the slope does not exceed 18 °, roll materials are suitable for the roof. With a slope of 18-30 °, it is better to choose metal or ceramic tiles.

Calculation of a hipped roof with your own hands. Photo

Upon completion of the first stage, an accurate roofing diagram... You need to know what materials and in what quantities you need to buy.

Stages of building a hipped roof with your own hands

For the device of a hipped roof, coniferous wood is used without defects with a moisture content of 18-22%. First of all, a base is arranged, which evenly distributes the load on the supporting structures. A layer is laid along the perimeter of the building waterproofing and is mounted mauerlat- solid timber 10x15 cm or 15x15 cm. Joints are made in an overlay, metal brackets, plates and corners are used to tie the corners.

The next step in the construction of a hipped roof is installation of the bed. This is a bar that serves as a support for the racks and is located on the base. Further, racks are mounted on the beds (timber 10x10 or 10x15 cm) with a rafter pitch (no more than 2 meters), a ridge beam (10x20 cm) is installed, temporarily resting on special racks.

Important! It is necessary to pay special attention to the angle of installation of the racks.

When installing a hipped roof, it is necessary to take into account that it consists of 4 planes. Trapezoidal ramps require lateral rafters, for triangular - diagonal (oblique). This is a one-piece beam of 10x15 cm or 10x20 cm, which is mounted with a step of 50-150 cm. If joining is necessary, overlays are mounted and fixed in several places.

Do-it-yourself hipped roof. Photo

At the points where the rafters rest on the base, you need to make cuts and fix the structure with metal elements. From above, the rafters abut against the ridge bar, connected to the racks using grooves. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to use diagonal supports, struts, steel connecting elements.

Roof installation

The final stage of building a hipped roof with your own hands is the installation of a waterproofing layer, counter-lattice, lathing (or solid flooring). It fits on the rafters waterproofing material... Its purpose is to exclude the destruction of the rafter system due to the ingress of moisture from the attic under the roofing material. The film is overlapped and sealed with adhesive tape for tightness.

The next step is the device counter bars... This is a timber or board treated with an antiseptic. Attaches to the rafters, allows you to fix the waterproofing material, creates an air cushion between the roofing material and the insulation.

For the lathing, dry boards 4-5 cm wide are used, which are attached to the counter-lattice at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. If the arrangement of living quarters in the attic space is not planned, then the roofing material is then mounted.

When device warm attic a vapor barrier material (film, foil, glassine) is mounted on the rafters from the inside with the help of staplers, preventing moisture from entering the insulation from a warm room. Thermal insulation material 15-20 cm thick is laid on the vapor barrier.

The advantages of a hipped roof

The construction of a hipped roof allows you to:

convert the attic space into a residential attic, that is, increase the usable area of the house;
increase the level of resistance to external influences in the form of wind and rain, thereby increasing the strength of the roof and extending its service life;
make the appearance of the house more attractive.

Despite the fact that the planning and process of the device requires a lot of time and material costs, the device of a hipped roof with your own hands is possible with the basic skills of a carpenter. The farm must have: gasoline, circular or hand saw, drill, chisels, hammers, level, cord, tape measure. Before starting work, it is advisable to carefully watch the video that is suitable for the content.

After the publication of an article on the construction of a gable roof with my own hands, many letters began to come to my post office asking me to show how a gable hip roof was being erected. Indeed, this version of the rafter system is quite popular, but its construction is more difficult than the same gable roof or even a broken one.

This difficulty is associated with the presence of corner rafters in the structure. In different sources they are called differently - diagonal, oblique, hip ... I will use the term angular for simplicity.

When describing the construction of a gable roof, I also used a structure in which the rafters are supported by the floor beams of the floor located below. Now, for a change, we will consider an example where the rafters rest directly on the Mauerlat.

So, let's say we have the foot of a house measuring 7x11 meters. Its height is 3.5 meters. We will have an unheated attic under the roof. The pictures below show how we installed the attic floor and the Mauerlat (click on the picture to enlarge the images).

The calculation of the cross-section of the floor beams was made in the program described. I chose a section of 100x200 mm.

The beams were calculated as loaded with a distributed load. The step of the beams is the maximum possible with such a section of 0.7 meters. When calculating attic floors, I always use a standard distributed load of 300 kg / m². Here 200 kg / m² is the weight of the floor itself with insulation and 100 kg / m² is added as a temporary load from people who will move along the floors during the construction of the roof and possibly during operation (some store various things in the attic).

The design load “Load (calc.)” Is determined by an increase in the standard load (in this case by 10%) to provide a greater safety factor.

In order to evenly distribute the load, we installed the floor beams on a board with a section of 50x150 mm. This is especially important for the load-bearing partition, because in addition to the floors themselves, it will also bear part of the load from the roof. Used as a bar 100x150 mm.

Any hipped roof begins with the installation of a ridge bar. Accordingly, we need to base it on. If a load-bearing partition is located under the ridge beam, then everything is simple - we rely on it.

In our example, the load-bearing partition in the house is located perpendicular to the future ridge. It is impossible to support the skate on the floor beams, because their cross section was not calculated for this. Therefore, we proceed as follows. On the Mauerlat, we install the supporting beam strictly in the middle. It consists of two boards with a section of 50x200 mm (see pictures). The gap between them is 50 mm. Why exactly two boards - it will be clear below.

Pay attention to where the inserts are located between the boards (right picture - the size of 676 cm was measured with a tape measure; dividing this value by 2 and subtracting 2.5 cm from it - we get the desired size). These inserts are made of 50x150 mm board scraps and are firmly stitched with nails.

Now we collect the so-called "bench". Racks made of boards 50x150 mm, ridge bar made of boards 50x200 mm. We put the racks strictly vertically along the level (or plumb line) on the inserts shown above. Each post is fixed with temporary braces (the figure shows braces on only one post). All connections are made with self-tapping screws so that they can be easily disassembled. Why - it will be clear further.

The height of the racks is determined in the manner described in the article about the sloping mansard roof. Those. before starting construction, it is necessary to draw on paper on a scale a sketch of the box of the house and the future roof (the larger the drawing, the more descriptive it is). The sketch is drawn based on personal aesthetic preferences.

From the resulting diagram, we determine the height of the racks. In this example, I am quite satisfied with the racks with a height of 2.5 meters.

The next step will be the manufacture and installation of rafters abutting against the ridge beam. In order not to get confused, let's call them ordinary rafters. The calculation showed that as ordinary rafters in our example (region - Nizhny Novgorod region, roof - metal tile), you can use boards with a section of 50x150 mm with a step of 0.6 meters.

To begin with, we will make a template from an inch board 25x150 mm. The order of its marking is shown in the figures below:

Let me explain a little. Take an inch board of suitable length. We apply it as shown in the left picture. We cut out the upper cut as shown in the middle figure using any bar 5 cm high. This height is equal to the depth of the cut of the rafter at the point of its connection with the Mauerlat. Usually I take this depth equal to about one third of the height of the rafter section. That is, for example, if the rafters were from a board of 50x200 mm, then the wash would be 7 cm deep.

The lower part of the template is marked in accordance with the right figure. I washed down the rafters on the Mauerlat again, using any block 5 cm high.Then, measuring 40 cm from the outer surface of the wall (this is the width of our cornice overhang), we draw a vertical line along the level or plumb line.

In the right picture, you can see that when marking up the template, it turned out that the top row of facing bricks interferes with us. So we just took it off. It was possible to knock out individual bricks in the places where the rafters were installed. I already wrote earlier that you should not load the facing masonry with a roof.

So, the template for ordinary rafters is ready. Of course, it is very difficult to build a box at home, as well as install a Mauerlat and a ridge beam in compliance with the ideal geometry. There will always be errors. Therefore, before making the preparation of the next rafter, take a template and attach it in the place where this rafter will be placed. If you see any inconsistencies, immediately take them into account when making the rafters. Perhaps it will need to be lengthened by a few millimeters or, on the contrary, shortened. In general, in the process of work, everything will become clear.

After all the ordinary rafters are installed and secured, in this example, before installing the corner rafters, I would unload our middle load-bearing beam (which is 2 planks 50x200). To do this, we remove the racks on which the ridge bar was placed. At this moment, the load will be fully distributed on the walls of the box at home. And now we shorten our racks a little and put them in place. They should enter freely between the ridge and the beam with minimal effort (you do not need to hammer them with a healthy hammer).

If our racks rested not on a beam, but on a load-bearing partition, we would skip this step.

Now we turn to the most interesting thing - the manufacture and installation of corner rafters. The corner rafter must be simultaneously located immediately in 2 adjacent planes of the slopes. This is a prerequisite for the sheathing and the roof to be flat without deflections. Different builders do this in different ways. I'll tell you how we do it.

The calculation of the cross-section of the corner rafters is quite complicated, it makes no sense to delve into it. We always make them from 2 boards sewn together with the same section as ordinary rafters. This practice has been proven by many builders' many years of experience. I can vouch for the reliability, of course, with the installation of the necessary props (we will talk about them below).

To begin with, at each corner, directly to the Mauerlat, we attach two sawn-off (see Fig.) Trimming boards (50x100 mm) about 30 cm long. The saws are made at an angle of 45º.

Further, at any corner from which we decided to start, we fasten a piece of board (in this case 50x150 mm) according to the figure. Pay attention - the plane of the bar facing us coincides with the line connecting the inner and outer corners of the Mauerlat. In short, the bar stands in the place where the right board of the future corner rafter will stand.

Now, on an ordinary rafter, measure the size shown in the figure using a square and mark it on the installed bar. Let's call the resulting point - point 1. Screw a self-tapping screw into it.

At the top, according to the figure, we make the markup. Size 10 cm is the thickness of the corner rafter. The main thing is that the triangle is isosceles. Let's call the point on the right (marked with a small stroke in the figure) - point 2. We also screw a self-tapping screw into it.

Pull the lace between points 1 and 2 (shown in blue). Then we take any small piece of board 15 cm wide (the same as that of the rafters) and, aligning its upper edge with the lace (see figure), we push this piece against the Mauerlat. At the point of contact, draw a mark with a pencil and measure the size of the support of the corner rafter (in this case 11 cm). We will call this mark - point 3.

Now we need to measure the angle of inclination of the corner rafter. For this we use a malka. It is better to purchase a malka with a protractor assembly (left picture). If you could not find one, you can use a simple small one plus an ordinary school protractor (middle picture). What angle we are measuring is shown in the right picture:

We apply the resulting workpiece at the top (see left figure) to our point 2 and, combining it with the lace, draw lines parallel to the ordinary rafter on the right with a pencil. We make a new wash along these lines. What should turn out can be seen in the right figure. It can also be seen in the figure that at the bottom point of contact between the template and the ordinary rafter, we put another mark. Let's call it point 4.

Finally, we remove the lace, measure the distance between points 3 and 4 with a tape measure and make an angled rafter. The sequence is as follows: we measure the overhang of an ordinary rafter. Above in the figure, which shows an ordinary rafter with dimensions, the size we need is 0.67 meters. Multiply this value by 1.5. To the resulting figure, add the distance between points 3 and 4. So we get the length of the workpiece of the corner rafter. This length is made with a sufficient margin. The overhang will turn out to be more than necessary, it is cut already in place when the cornice is made.

Now we sew two 50x150 boards. With a large length of the board blank, we butt - we make the joints in different places. I think everything is obvious here. Using the template, mark and file the upper end of the right board. Then, as if doing a mirror image, we file down the left board. We postpone the distance between points 3 and 4 on the workpiece (from where it should be clear from the figures above). We make the bottom cut, maintaining the angle α and our size of the support of the corner rafter - 11 cm. Now the rafter can be put in place and secured.

For other corner rafters, we make all the cuts the same. The only thing that can be clarified is the distance between points 3 and 4.

The most loaded point of the corner rafter is 1/4 span from the top point. Therefore, you need to put additional racks here. As I already said, in our example, it is impossible to put racks on the floor beams, so we put additional beams with a section of 100x200 mm under them.

Now we need to make and install the so-called "wives". Here, in principle, everything is not as complicated as it might seem. To begin with, on the Mauerlat with a pencil, we make markings with the necessary step (0.6 meters) and mark the places where the wives will stand. Now we are making the shortest extreme wedge right in place. Its lower cuts and the length of the overhang are marked according to the remaining pattern of ordinary rafters. They are the same. The upper cut can be done right in place without any complex constructions. Narodnik is not heavy. We took it, twisted it, figured it out, a couple of times we corrected the upper one with a chainsaw and everything will work out. If the wrist moves a few centimeters to the left or right along the Mauerlat, this is not scary. The main thing is to achieve that when looking from above, the angle between it and the Mauerlat is 90º. I think this is understandable.

Now we can use this short crochet as a template for everyone else. The cuts are all the same, only the length is different. See the figure: we measure the length of an ordinary rafter and subtract from it the length of the short man made. Divide the resulting figure by the total number of people in the corner. We did markup on the Mauerlat and we know how many there will be. In our case, five. So, we got the distance by which the length of each subsequent man will differ. Those. we have a short one, add this distance to it, get the length of the next one, and so on. I am sure that if you build the roof yourself and reach this stage, then you will not have any problems here.

Now a little digression. If the span overlapped by the corner rafter is more than 7.5 meters, in addition to the rack we have installed, you need to put an additional rack at a distance of 1/4 of the span from the lowest point of support. If the overlap allows us to put a rack on them, or we make the so-called "sprengel" (see fig.).

If the span is more than 9 meters, we put more racks in the middle. Well, here, accordingly, it will be necessary to strengthen the ordinary rafters. In the process of calculating them, this will become obvious.

So, back to our roof. Now you need to make a cornice overhang. In this article, I will not delve into the process. Already tired of writing. Here are just a few pictures, from which I think everything will be clear.

On this I would like to end. Of course, the more complex the process, the more difficult it is to describe it in an understandable and accessible form. Still, I hope that people who decide to build a hip roof with their own hands will figure it out and they will definitely succeed. Any questions or additions on the topic, write in the comments. Let's discuss.

And one more observation. In my personal prejudice, a hip roof in its pure form, as we built it in this article, looks kind of boring. It simply transforms if you make at least one dormer window.

A hipped roof is considered to be a rather complex and material-intensive structure, which few homeowners undertake to build with their own hands. But if you decide to build on your own, first go through the preparatory path - study the theoretical materials, including those set forth in this publication. Then assemble a small-sized model of the truss system in order to deal with the nodes, the nuances of their manufacture and the calculation of the amount of timber. So, we propose to take the first step and consider ...

Design features

This type of roof structure shown in the photo is a regular ridge roof, but without vertical gables. Instead of them, 2 additional slopes are made on the sides of the building - hips with a different slope angle.

Reference. If all 4 planes are tilted at the same angle, then you get a different type of roof - hip roof. Since its slopes converge at one point in the form of a dome, the ridge is absent as such.

The rafter system of the hip roof consists of the following elements (shown in the diagram):

mauerlat, bed - a powerful strapping beam mounted on the upper plane of the walls along the perimeter of the building and internal partitions;
roof slopes are formed due to inclined beams, installed at a calculated interval, - rafter legs;
together with the stiffening elements - puffs, uprights and braces - the rafters form roof trusses;
ridge girder - a bar connecting the upper points of the trusses;
in some designs, the lower part of the rafter legs is lengthened by an additional part - the filly.

Hip rafters are installed along the line of convergence of the planes, resting on the corners of the building. Their slope coincides with the angle of the main slopes. But the end rafter legs, called rafters, form steeper or gentler slopes on the sides of the house.

When building 4-pitched roofs, 2 types of trusses are used - hanging and layered. In the first, the lower belt (tightening) relies only on the external fences of a private house, therefore it is irrational to put them on too long spans due to the increased consumption of materials for stiffening ribs. For the device of the hanging truss, see the drawing:

The advantage of layered structures is the ability to lean on a capital interior partition and overlap large spans without increasing material consumption. Roofing beginners should pay attention to these trusses, as they are more reliable and easier to install.

If it is planned to arrange a residential attic on the attic floor, then the slope angle of the main slopes increases, and the farm receives 2 supports in the form of racks that form the walls of the room. It is customary to put these details on the beds or floor beams of a wooden house. The ceilings of the attic room are formed thanks to horizontal ties connecting the rafters on top, as done in the diagram:

Hip roof device step by step

Like any serious structure, a hip roof is erected with your own hands in several stages:

Creation of a project with the analysis of load-bearing structures.
Logging and other roofing materials.
Installation of the rafter system.
Laying the coating with insulation (if necessary).

Design advice. So that you do not have to worry about the reliability of the building, it is strongly recommended to entrust the design work to engineers, regardless of financial costs. They will calculate all the parameters - the step of installing the rafters, their cross-section, the number of struts and puffs in accordance with the weather conditions in your area.

Above, as an example, a drawing of a four-pitched roof with layered trusses covering 2 spans of 4.5 m is shown. The length of the main rafter legs is 6 m, the height of the ridge is 4 m, the angle of inclination is 41 °. This structure can be taken as a basis if the width of the building does not exceed that indicated in the drawing (9 meters). Consider an important point: the more the hips are tilted, the greater the load is experienced by the women and the central ridge knot where they rest. In this example, the hips are best positioned at an angle of 45-50 °.

The most difficult thing in the construction of hip roofs is the correct installation of the splicing units for corner rafters with a Mauerlat and the upper chord of trusses in different structures. This is another reason to consult with the designers who develop the junction joints individually. So that you understand what is at stake, we present the drawings of the upper support unit, where the hip rafter leg is adjacent to the ridge.

Some designs do not provide for the manufacture and installation of a ridge run between trusses. Then the hip ribs are attached to a tightening and additional struts, as the drawing prescribes:

The lower support node of the leg on the Mauerlat and the splicing of the rafters looks somewhat simpler, although in reality it requires careful sawing of the boards at various angles, which is reflected in the diagram.

For a visual acquaintance with a more complex system, where the hip is combined with the bay window, we suggest watching the training video:

Selection of lumber

Before making a hip roof truss system, you should choose a high-quality and dried wood. In terms of price - quality, the most suitable option is a coniferous tree - spruce, larch or pine. Pronounced knotty, rot and traces of the vital activity of insects - pests are unacceptable.

We present the most "popular" sizes of lumber used for the phased construction of hip roofs:

main rafter - single board 50 x 200 mm or double 40 x 150 mm;
Mauerlat: minimum section - 100 x 150 mm, optimal - 20 x 20 cm;
wives - board 5 x 15 cm;
purlins - timber 50 x 150 or 50 x 200 mm;
struts, crossbars - a board with a thickness of 25 to 50 mm;
racks - a bar 5 x 10 cm.

A set of mounting plates and corners will also not be superfluous.

Note. If the design engineers calculate the roofing structures for you, they will also draw up a specification of all materials with dimensions.

Planks with a thickness of 25-32 mm are traditionally used for the crate for laying corrugated board or metal tiles, and 5 x 5 cm bars are used for the counter-lattice.

Installation of a strapping bar on walls

Unlike gable roofs, where the Mauerlat is installed on the side walls, the harness is made around the entire perimeter under the hips. The exception is frame, log and log houses, where the upper wall girder or the last tier of logs acts as a mauerlat. Then grooves are made in it, where the rafter legs are inserted, as shown in the photo.

On the walls of light cellular stone - aerated concrete and foam concrete - a reinforcing reinforced concrete belt is arranged before laying the piping. Mounting pins are embedded in it, onto which a strapping bar is subsequently put on. The step-by-step order of work looks like this:

Installation of panel formwork, binding of the reinforcement cage with embedded parts and pouring the belt with concrete mixture M200.
Waterproofing the concrete surface with roofing felt or bitumen primer.
Installation of a bar and its fixation on hairpins.

Mauerlat corner joints are made by cutting in half a tree. In the same way, the timber is built up in length if the standard size of 6 m is not enough. Also, horizontal struts are made in the corners or iron brackets are driven in, which do not allow the bars to disperse under the load of the main and hip rafters.

Advice. Be sure to treat all wooden parts with an antiseptic and flame retardant. One protects the wood from decay, and the second increases its fire resistance.

Assembling the rafter system

It is customary to install large roof trusses on site, because it will take twice as many workers to lift them from the ground. In wooden houses, the first step is to install all the ceiling beams, and temporary flooring is arranged along them. For the installation of a high ridge, scaffolding will also be needed.

The phased assembly of the hip roof construct is performed in the following order:

As with the construction of a gable roof, the first step is to place the central supports, where the ridge girder is attached.
Installation of the main rafters is carried out, which are cut from above and below at the desired angle. On the ridge, the opposite rafter legs are displayed in one plane and fastened with steel plates on self-tapping screws (yellow, not black). The beams are fixed to the Mauerlat with corners.
After installing the main trusses, tighten them with ledgers and struts according to the drawings, using bolts for fastening.
Install ribs - extreme hip rafters. Their connection with the ridge and strapping beam is carried out according to one of the above schemes.
Saw off and nail the beads to the frame. Each of them is cut at different angles, determined by measuring at 4 points (along each edge of the board).
If necessary, secure the filly to provide an overhang of 0.5 m, and hem the cornice with boards.

Advice. Since the ribs of the hips are long, they need to be extended and additional supports should be installed. Make the joint near the ridge, where the load on the roof is less, and mount the supports closer to the Mauerlat.

How the elements of the hip structure are attached in reality, see the following video:

Laying the topcoat

This final operation is carried out according to the traditional technology, which includes ventilation of the roof space and the installation of a waterproofing layer made of a diffusion membrane. The latter does not allow moisture to penetrate from the street into the attic, at the same time the film freely passes water vapor outside. The difference from the covering of ordinary gable roofs is one: along the fracture lines (on the ribs of the hips) additional cover strips are placed.

The covering material is laid in the following order:

The rafter system is completely covered with a diffusion membrane. The canvases are rolled horizontally with an overlap of at least 100 mm, starting from the bottom. The joints must be glued with tape.
The film is nailed to the outer edges of the rafters through 5 x 5 cm counter-lattice bars, which provide ventilation under the metal tile or other material.
Sheathing boards are nailed perpendicular to the direction of the rafter legs. The installation interval depends on the selected coating, and for soft tiles, the filling is continuous.
Roofing material and all fittings are mounted on the ends of the roof, as well as around ventilation and chimneys.

Note. The bars of the counter-lattice, nailed to the rafters, should not become an obstacle to the ventilation air. Therefore, they are specially shortened to a length of 2-3 m and nailed with a gap of 5-10 cm between adjacent elements.

Warming of the hip roof is done both during the installation of the coating and after it, the main thing is to assemble the correct "pie" shown in the diagram. In the first case, the mineral wool is laid on top, under the waterproofing, and in the second - from the inside.

Conclusion

It must be understood that the advantages of a hip roof over a gable roof are few. Firstly, it is a beautiful architectural solution, and secondly, it reduces the wind load on the side facades of a private house. But the homeowner will have to pay for this with increased consumption of timber and the complication of construction, and therefore time costs. Hence the advice: take your time with a decision and think carefully about the pros and cons. But if you have already undertaken, then make the roof with high quality, for yourself, without saving money on consultations with construction engineers.

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