At what height should the sockets and switches be installed. The height of the sockets from the floor - what you need to know and take into account

Question: "At what height should the sockets be made?" worries every person who is faced with the need to replace the electrical wiring in the apartment. In order to correctly calculate the distance at which it is worth placing the elements, several objective factors should be taken into account that affect their location.

It is necessary to think about preventing the possibility of liquid entering the outlet, minimizing the risk of mechanical damage to electrical accessories, unhindered connection of various household appliances to the network - the appliance cords must reach before entering the network.

Letting go of prejudice

Almost all newly-made electricians who decided to independently replace the wiring in their home are interested in information about European standards, according to which the height of the sockets on the wall from the floor should be 30 cm.

This is nothing more than a myth; there are no normative documents confirming such a figure. Therefore, it is not at all necessary to place "electrical points" in the apartment in this way.

In the "Rules for Electrical Installation" (hereinafter - PUE), it is said about the height at which the sockets should be from the floor in rooms with high humidity, or rather, in bathrooms.

This condition is put forward only for the safety of the population, it will help protect against electric shock. We will consider this issue in more detail in the next section.

References in regulatory documents

So, some European standards for the height of the sockets still exist. Height requirements for electrical accessories are described in several sections of the following documents:

GOST R 50571.11-96;
SP 31-110-2003.

According to the PUE, the sockets must be installed at a distance of at least 60 cm from the doorway of the shower stall. The minimum distance from the "electrical point" to the elements of the gas pipeline system is also determined, it is equal to 50 cm. The GOST mentions a similar requirement regarding the 60 cm distance to the shower cabin door.

Having studied the joint venture, you can stumble upon the condition that it is forbidden to mount sockets under and above kitchen sinks.

The height of their placement in schools and kindergartens is also being discussed, the electrical accessories should be installed at a distance of 180 cm from the floor level.

Kitchen sockets

The issue of placing power supply elements in the kitchen area is very acute. This is due to the presence of a large number of electrical appliances that every housewife needs.

So, the height of the sockets in the kitchen, which are used to connect the most popular household appliances, is:

to connect a refrigerator, automatic machine or dishwasher to the network, the optimal value is 15 - 20 centimeters from the floor;
to connect small household appliances (coffee machine, electric kettle, microwave oven, multicooker), the ideal height from the kitchen countertop is 20 cm, that is, 1 meter and 10 centimeters should be measured from the floor level;
the outlet for the hood is usually made at a distance of two meters from the floor.

Electrical fittings in the living room

Before you plan the points of installation of outlets, think over where the upholstered furniture, TV, air conditioner, desk and so on will be located.

The height of the sockets for the TV may vary depending on which installation method is chosen. If it is located on a low pedestal, it is permissible to install an "electrical point" at a distance of 30 cm from the floor, if the TV is hanging on the wall, it is better to increase the height to one meter.

Sockets near upholstered furniture are placed at a level of 75-90 cm from the floor, this solution provides convenient access to them for any appliances.

Sockets for floor lamps, vacuum cleaners are located 30 cm from the floor level.

Outlets in the bedroom

With the sleeping area, everything is much simpler. One or two sockets can be installed near the bedside table, they will be used to recharge the smartphone, turn on the night light. If you plan to install an air conditioner, you must provide one point directly under the ceiling.

A couple of spare sockets should be taken into account, which will be used to turn on a hair dryer, fan, vacuum cleaner. When there will be a computer desk in the bedroom, the battery is provided near it at a height of 30 cm above the floor.

Competently drawing up a schematic layout of new outlets in an apartment is not difficult, the main thing is to think well of the location of all electrical appliances.

On the created drawing, do not forget to mark the optimal height, this will help not to make mistakes during the repair process.

Photo of sockets

When starting a repair, you have to take into account many nuances. One of the most difficult items in the improvement of an apartment or house is electricity. Even in the seemingly simple installation of the light switch, there are pitfalls. In addition to its form and functionality, you will have to decide at what height the switch will be located from the floor.

The choice is influenced not only by the factor of ease of use, but also by the safety of residents. Therefore, it is necessary to understand in detail how to determine the installation location of the switch and whether there are any regulatory documents regulating this.

At what height should the switch be installed from the floor

In your own home, you can find a switch even with your eyes closed, but when visiting, if you notice, you often get lost, even if it is in a prominent place. And its location does not always seem convenient to you. This happens because we use lighting at home so often that we turn it on and off already on the machine, and when we get into an unusual room, we have to think.

That is why it is worthwhile to approach the issue of choosing the height and location of the switch with special care.

There are no rules governing the number of sockets and switches installed in apartments and residential buildings, only general recommendations are given in all documents. This figure is determined by each owner, depending on the number and location of electrical appliances.

But the existing regulations strictly regulate the places prohibited for the installation of sockets and switches. Pay special attention to this, as these rules will affect the installation height.

If you go into several different apartments of the old years of construction, you will notice that, in general, all the light switches are on the same level. By Soviet standards these devices were located at a height of 1.6 - 1.7 meters from the floor... This attitude is common today.

This is because the standard height of the switch from the floor is so intuitively remembered that even during the repair, people do not change their location in order to get used to it again.

Height of the switch from the floor according to European standard

The prefix "euro" has always been associated with something new, more reliable and of high quality. "European standard" and "European-quality repair" - these are modern technologies and materials in construction, more comfortable layouts and the location of all communications, including sockets and light switches. All new buildings are now carried out according to such standards.

According to the European standard, the optimal arrangement of switches for all family members was calculated. Not too high for children and not too low for adults. Height of the switch from the floor according to European standard is 0.8 - 0.9 meters. This level was not chosen by chance. This is the approximate height to which an adult's hand lowered down reaches.

In this case, the child will also be able to reach this level. V SP 31-110-2003 clause 15.34, 15.36 the following is said about this.

Both the Soviet and European standards are not an unquestioning indication. You can choose the height of installation of equipment in the house depending on your convenience and the location of furniture and electrical appliances. In a room designed for sleeping, it is more convenient to install switches near the bed at a level that can be reached from a lying position. It is approximately 60 - 70 centimeters from the floor.

In the working area, in addition to the main one, additional lighting is provided. These are various table or wall lamps. It is more convenient to place their switches on distance 10 - 20 centimeters from the height of the table. So it will be possible to adjust the lighting without interrupting your studies.

The location of sockets and switches must be thought out in advance before finishing work. After their completion, it will be almost impossible to transfer or add additional ones without damaging the new repair. It is imperative to take into account the location of furniture in the premises and electrical appliances on them.

Where to place the switch

The location of the switch depends on the purpose of the room. In any case, for the main lighting, it is installed right next to the entrance door from the side of the handle. Do not place the switch behind an open door, as this will complicate its operation and lead to accidental pressing.

Also, it should not be partially or completely covered by furniture and interior items. The installation height of the switch should be comfortable for all family members, both adults and children. To make it convenient to press the key, take into account the average height of the downward hand for all adult family members.

Where is better install bathroom switch(bathroom): at the entrance to the premises or inside? In rooms such as bathrooms, toilets, saunas, pantry, light switches should be install outside, that is, in front of the entrance... Why outside and not inside?

Usually, when a person enters the bathroom or toilet, what is the first thing they do? That's right - it closes the door (possibly even with a lock). Now imagine that you are closed and it is dark around, where to look for this switch? Therefore, for convenience, it is better to control the lighting in such rooms from the outside: if you come in - the light is already on around you can see everything;

In living rooms, kitchens and corridors, the opposite is true. In such premises switches are installed inside... We went into the room - turned on the light, go to bed - turned off. That is, all control here takes place inside the room and you do not need to open the doors for this.

Moreover, to increase comfort, for example, in the bedroom, it is advisable to install special (pass-through) switches for the main lighting, which allow you to control one chandelier from different places. For example, one switch is located near the bed or sofa at the level of the outstretched arm of a lying person, the other at the entrance near the door. This makes it possible turn off the lights before bed without getting out of bed.

Do not forget about additional lighting - lamps, sconces, diode strips. Their switches are installed depending on the ease of use and the aesthetic appearance of the interior.

Have you ever noticed in which position the switch is on and in which position it is off? And it should. This is necessary in order to equally correctly install all the equipment in the apartment.

From the above, we can conclude that the location of the switches is selected based on the purpose of the room and ease of control. The usual location is at the entrance to the premises on distance 10-15 cm from the door... Here is what is said about this in the State Standard SP 31-110-2003, clause 15.34.

Tips on how to decide on the choice of height for the switches

How high should the switch be from the floor? In addition to existing standards, individual factors influence the choice of location. As a standard, it is suggested to choose the distance of the hand down. This height is convenient in that turning on and off the light can be done mechanically, without bending the limb. Walk a few times, simulating pressing a switch, and mark a position on the wall that is convenient for you.

The second factor affecting the location is the design features of the renovation. It is necessary to decide in advance where the furniture, sockets, main and additional lighting will be located.

Visually imagine where the switch will be installed for a particular room, mentally try to turn it on several times. Perhaps, when driving, it will seem to you that it is too high, or vice versa - it is low. So you can not forget anything and find the best location.

Check out the idea! Pay attention to the location of the switches in the apartments of your friends and relatives. Are you comfortable using them? Perhaps this way you can avoid mistakes in your repair by changing the selected position in advance.

The switches are not installed near heat and water sources (batteries, sinks). These restrictions are set for security purposes. Also, do not place devices too low or too high.

The optimal height is at the level of the hand down. If set too low, then you have to squat or bend over. With a high position, the hand must be raised or bent, which also causes, albeit small, but inconveniences.

The kitchen in a modern apartment is one of the main consumers of electricity. The power of the pantographs connected to the electrical wiring in the kitchen can sometimes reach more than half of the entire load of the apartment.

Based on this, the electrical wiring in the kitchen should be carried out by an independent group, and even better by several groups.

The power of electrical appliances in the kitchen

Before work, you will have to draw up a small project or diagram. For this, the power of all electrical appliances that will be in the kitchen is initially calculated.

Here is an approximate list of them:

lighting - 150-200 Watt

Microwave - 2000 Watt

Refrigerator - 100 Watt

Dishwasher - 1000-2000 Watt

Electric kettle - 2000 Watt

Oven - 2000 Watt

Water heater - 2000 Watt

Hob - 3500 - 7500 Watt

Of course, all appliances will not turn on at the same time. But you must calculate the total power. Most often, it is in the range of 10-15 kW.

The maximum power, when several pantographs are turned on at the same time, in an ordinary apartment, as a rule, does not exceed 7 kW.

If you have this power higher than 7kW, then here it is already necessary to think about inputting 380V and distribute the load in phases.

Which cable to choose for the kitchen

Next, you need to calculate the cross-section of the common power supply wire of the electrical panel and outgoing wiring to each pantograph. Here, stick to the rules:

with a load of devices up to 3.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 2.5mm2

with a load of devices up to 5.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 4mm2

with a total load of all devices up to 10kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 6mm2

with a total load of all devices up to 15kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 10mm2

Why there should be a VVGnG-Ls brand is detailed in the article below:

Even if you have a house with an old grounding system (no third protective conductor), still use a 3-core cable for wiring. This will save you in the future from additional costs for reconstruction and replacement of wires.

In extreme cases, the third wire will be reserve for zero or phase, in case of possible breakage or other damage.

Layout of sockets in the kitchen

After choosing the wiring, you need to decide on the sockets.

Always plan the placement of the outlets after the kitchen design is approved, otherwise there may be problems. For example, the sockets of the working area may easily be in the wrong place, and eventually hide behind the refrigerator.

To ensure that your sockets and switches are in place, take a plan for the arrangement of kitchen furniture.

After that, mark all the necessary sockets on it. You can even do it by hand.

On this plan, it is not yet necessary to clearly tie the installation sites and calculate the dimensions and distances. You just count the number and purpose of each of the outlets.

Number of sockets

How many outlets are required in the kitchen?

The category of stationary equipment includes a refrigerator, a cooker hood, a hob and an oven, a microwave oven, a dishwasher, and a garbage shredder.

In addition, it does not hurt to mount one outlet immediately under or near the switch when entering the room.

The zone with switches usually remains not cluttered with anything, and a free point where you can take voltages (for example, for a vacuum cleaner) is never superfluous.

Now mark the points on the apron for connecting non-stationary devices. Place a minimum of two on each side (right and left) of the kitchen.

This will include an electric kettle, blender, mixer, etc.

Distances and locations

When you have decided on the quantity, it's time to move on to calculating the required dimensions and indents. To do this, draw something like a sweep of the walls where the furniture will stand.

Here you will already need the exact dimensions of the kitchen - the length, the height of the room. Gradually, in the form of rectangles, draw the equipment and all the cabinets.

If the kitchen is corner, do the same with the adjacent wall.

Fridge

For refrigerators, manufacturers recommend placing the outlet group under the appliance itself, that is, in the bottom row so that the connections are not visible.

It is impossible to unequivocally say with 100% certainty at what height the bottom row of sockets should be made.

This is explained by the fact that if you set it higher, then the built-in appliances will rest against the forks.

If you intend to turn off the plug quite often, then the bottom connection for the refrigerator is not always convenient. In this case, you can place the whole thing at the height of the working area.

Sockets in the work area and above the worktop

The height of the worktop is usually 85cm, maximum 90cm. Then there is a partition with a height of 550-600mm and then lockers.

Place the sockets in this area 105cm from the floor.

In this case, they will not end up in the middle of the wall, and it will be convenient to cover them with the same microwave.

The minimum distance from the countertop should be at least 5cm so that the kitchen skirting board does not touch them. Locations - one set in any corner, plus between the hob and sink.

As mentioned above, at least two pieces. If you don't like the look of the sockets above the backsplash, consider sliding the unit out of the countertop.

It is imperative to consider whether there will be built-in appliances in the upper cabinets. For example, a microwave oven.

You will also have to make a separate outlet for it. Pull the cords from above to the countertop area, not according to feng shui.

Hood

Also at the top, at a height of 1.9m-2.0m, an outlet for the hood is displayed. However, a lot can depend on the brand. If this is a cheap option, then you can get by with a cable outlet and then connect it directly inside the equipment.

But if it is an expensive model, then it comes with its own fork. Cutting the factory plug will void the warranty.

Cooking and oven

In the presence of a powerful hob, either a cable outlet is made, followed by connection directly under the panel's terminal blocks, or a special power outlet is installed.

Ovens, unlike cookers, come with ordinary forks, so there is no need to be smart here. Plug them into simple sockets.

When there are cabinets with hinged doors to the left or right of the hob and oven, it is very convenient to place the sockets right inside them. Step back 15-20cm from the edge and mount.

If this is not possible, then you will have to connect from the lower group.

In the case of a separate installation of the oven from the hob, for example, at chest height, make a socket for it in the lower cabinet at a height of up to 750mm.

Dishwasher

According to SP 31-110 2003, clause 14.29, it is forbidden to make any sockets under and above sinks or sinks. Therefore, always back off a few centimeters when installing the socket group near this plumbing. This applies to both the bottom placement and the working area at the top.

It is also forbidden to put sockets behind the dishwasher and washing machine.

Near the dining table (if it is near the wall and not in the center of the kitchen), it is advisable to plan one outlet.

On big holidays, with an influx of guests and relatives in the apartment, you will definitely need to connect something on the table - a mixer, a juicer, a food processor, etc.

And on simple days, you can easily attach a laptop there when working in the kitchen.

for a group of outlets into which devices up to 3.5 kW are connected, an automatic machine for 16A is mounted

for devices up to 5.5 kW automatic 25A. Moreover, it is better to extend a separate group to this pantograph

You can also navigate by the following table for selecting machines and cables when connecting the hob:

since the kitchen is a humid room, plus a huge number of items with a metal case, it is necessary to install an introductory RCD for a current of 30mA in the shield in front of all the machines

a separate socket is installed on each pantograph

This is not only an additional stress on the wiring, but also a potential short circuit (due to spilled tea or other liquid).

Frequent mistakes

1 Installation of wiring and sockets before the approval and approval of the design project of the kitchen furniture.

Problems that you will surely face in this case are hidden sockets behind cabinets, refrigerators, etc. It is very likely that you will even have to use carriers, since factory cords with a plug will simply not reach the connection points.

2 Connecting the refrigerator.

The instructions for refrigerators usually indicate a ban on their connection through extension cords. At the same time, the length of the cord is not that great, only 1m.

Therefore, if you know what brand of refrigerator you will have, find your passport on the Internet and see which side of it the power cord comes out from. Add the width of the refrigerator to this and plan the connection point accordingly to get rid of the carriers.

And in some models, the connection of the freezer can go with a separate independent cord, or you will buy a freezer in the future. Initially, you will make only one outlet for the equipment, but in the end you will need two. So it is better to do this block in double.

3 Connecting sockets to "wet" devices through a simple machine.

Appliances such as a dishwasher, washing machine (if it is built into the kitchen), instantaneous water heater, etc. must be connected via an RCD or a diff.automatic device.

No modular machines, or even more "plugs", will never save you from current leaks.

Even if you do not have a grounding conductor, the RCD will still help and protect in this case.

4 The most common mistake is the installation of conventional dishwasher outlets (Schuko type) under the sink or near the faucet.

This location is prohibited by the rules. Step back from the mixer 500mm (the same applies to gas pipes on stoves or cookers) and only then boldly mount the wiring product.

If the electricians have already brought the wiring there and there is no way to redo it, or you got an apartment with such a repair, then make sure that the sockets under the sink are waterproof (like in the bathroom).

It is also forbidden to mount wiring accessories in the immediate vicinity of the plates.

5 Be extremely careful when installing the bottom outlet group at a distance of 10 cm from the floor!

In an area up to 25 cm from the floor, plumbers usually install pipes for the sink, washing machine, dishwasher.

Not knowing the exact passage of the tracks, do not rush to cut the walls, otherwise for you and your neighbors it may turn into a flood and unplanned repairs.

Summing up, I would like to say that the electrical wiring in the kitchen must be done by professionals in their field. Using the tips in this article, you can easily control the entire process and make your own competent comments during installation work.

It is clear that the installation of sockets and switches in the room in most cases determines the degree of comfort. It is equally important that their optimum height spacing from the point of view of convenience assumes normal accessible operation. At the same time, they would not violate their functional purpose, the features of the existing interior in the location of household electrical appliances. The standard of installation of sockets and switches includes a 100 cm or 50 cm distance of the device from the floor. At the same time, there is no need to call a sample of the convenient use of sockets and switches. It is for this reason that most owners of their own apartments are trying to replace the old electrical wiring with a new one with a different installation of sockets and switches. Changing the distance, allows you to increase the degree of convenience in the use of sockets and switches.

Installation according to European standard, GOST or convenience

Installing sockets and switches according to European standards is a good idea. But at the same time, it is limited by the general requirements that so successfully replaced the Soviet standard for installing sockets and switches to a new, so to speak, European standard.

According to the European standard, the sockets are installed at a height of 0.3 meters, and the installation of the switch must be at a height not lower and not lower than 0.9 meters from the base of the floor. In addition, in different parts of our country, the height of the established standard may slightly, but still differ. At the same time, the installation height of the sockets and the switch here can be either less than the total distance behind the European standard or more.

But, but seriously. So far, there is no established European standard regarding the installation of the height of sockets and switches.

Electrical Installation Rules, the compiled requirements in accordance with IEC standards only mention the possibility of installing plug sockets at a more convenient distance from the floor, which can be read in chapter 6.6.30 of the Electrical Installation Rules.

For this reason, during the installation work on the installation of devices, one has to be guided by the convenience of operation. But at the same time, do not violate the developed and approved restrictions on the compliance of the height with generally accepted regulatory documents. That is, the norms that are associated not only with the location of sockets and switches, but also with safety technology and in relation to the installation of electrical wiring and wiring devices. (PUE-7 Internal electrical equipment Ch.7.1.48-7.1.54).

Recommendations for the installation of wiring devices

But in relation to the Soviet standard, the convenience of installing sockets and switches is rather doubtful. As practice has shown, the previously used standard does not meet the conditions for convenient operation, which cannot be said about the notorious European standard, which has become more suitable for us than the old Soviet GOST.

And the convenience of the installed sockets and switches at the entrance to the room should not be higher than at the level of the lowered hand of an adult user of average height. And this is a directly established standard for the distance of sockets and switches at the very entrance to the room. This is necessary in order to be able to quickly find the device, even in the dark.

Of course, it should be noted that the set points of electrical installations are built in according to standards in accordance with their ease of use. Only, completely accept to adhere to the distance and height of 0.3 meters for the outlet and about 9 meters for the switches, as a necessary and sure standard of height should not be followed.

In addition, a room with a large area, to control its lighting, it is better to install sockets and switches at different points in the room. For these purposes, pass-through switches are used. It is clear that it is very problematic to get deep into the room in the dark, in order, for example, to find a switch and turn on the light.

Ideal, installation of wall outlets

Therefore, the most suitable option is to install plug sockets with no disconnectable, which is directly connected in rooms with bathrooms. At the same time, all electrical devices, this applies to both sockets and switches for household appliances such as washing machines, where there is a need to take them out, for example, on the wall in the hallway.

In addition, special attention should be paid to those places in the kitchen where the largest number of electrical appliances are located. This means the installation of sockets, at the table in the kitchen, where you can and should install a couple of spare sockets. In this case, the most common option is a distance of about 10-15 centimeters from the countertop of the kitchen table. At the same time, the number of installed outlets should ensure convenient use to the maximum, which means that when designing repairs, it is necessary to take into account ease of use, common sense and requirements in accordance with regulatory documents.

What to look for when choosing outlets

In a modern home, many rooms are divided into several functional areas, where different electrical appliances and lighting systems are used. The issue of designing electrical wiring is a crucial stage in the repair. It is necessary to take into account many important points: the type of room, the arrangement of furniture, the number and height of the sockets and switches.

The article contains the standards and requirements for the installation of power points and switches, as well as recommendations for the placement of wiring devices in different rooms.

Standards and Breakers: Myths and Reality

The placement of switches and sockets in the room determines the degree of comfort. When starting repair work, many novice electricians are interested in the question: "What should be the installation height of switches and sockets according to accepted standards?"

In fact, there are no restrictions on the placement of power points. There are some requirements for the installation of sockets in the bathroom, as well as industrial and public premises.

As for the location of switches and sockets in the apartment, there are some recommendations. To adhere to them or not depends on the purpose of the room, the arrangement of furniture, the comfort of use and your own wishes.

Previously, the following standards were considered generally accepted:

the distance from the floor to the outlet is 90 cm;
installation height of switches in the apartment - 1.6 m.

Such parameters have their merits, so many people still adhere to these standards. Plus the "Soviet" standards - the switch is located at eye level, and in order to insert the plug into the outlet you will not have to bend over.

Recommended standards for the installation height of sockets and switches

Installation height of sockets and switches: PUE

Electrical Installation Rules (PUE) define the following standards for the placement of sockets / switches:

Sockets and switches should be located at a distance of 0.6 meters or more from the doorway of the shower or bathroom.
Any elements of electrical installations, switches and sockets should be at a distance of at least 0.5 m from gas pipelines.
The recommended height for placing the switches is no more than 1 m. The optimal installation location is the wall on the side of the door handle. If necessary, the switch is mounted above the ceiling. In this case, it is necessary to provide the ability to turn on the light using a cord.
The outlet in the bathroom must be connected via an RCD device.

Requirements for the placement of sockets and switches in accordance with GOST and SP

In GOST R 50571.11-96, the requirement is also spelled out, according to which switches and sockets in the bathroom are located 60 cm or more from the door of the factory shower stall.

More detailed information with standards, recommendations for design and power supply is collected in the Code of Rules 31-110-2003. The device of internal electrical networks, namely the installation of switches and sockets (level, height, number) is carried out in compliance with the following rules:

The distance from the sockets used to connect air conditioners and stationary kitchen electric stoves to the appliances themselves is not standardized.
In the living rooms of dormitories and apartments, one socket with a current of 10 (16) A should be installed for every 4 m of the perimeter, in the corridors - for every 10 sq. M. area.
In private and single-family houses, the number of sockets is determined by the customer.

Installation height of sockets and switches: "Eurostandard"

The term "European standard" came into use together with the emergence of the concept of "European-quality repair". For some consumers, such an arrangement of sockets and switches seems more comfortable:

the installation height of the switches is 90 cm from the floor, which allows, walking by and without raising your hands, turn on / off the light in the room;
the placement of sockets is provided at a level of 30 cm from the floor - this distance allows you to hide wires and more comfortably operate household appliances.

American standard for socket placement:

height from the floor (kitchen table or sink) - 30.5-41 cm;
the distance between the sockets is 1.8 m (report from the doorway).

Important! When using euro sockets, it must be borne in mind that the diameter of their pins and the distance between them are greater than those of domestic ones. The current strength of imported sockets is about 10-16A, while that of domestic ones - up to 10 A. Therefore, the installation of Euro sockets will allow the use of more powerful electrical appliances.

Installation height of switches and sockets in the apartment

Electrical wiring in the kitchen

The modern kitchen is equipped with many electrical appliances: oven and hob, refrigerator, extractor hood, dishwasher, coffee maker, electric kettle, meat grinder, toaster, etc. The design of electrical wiring begins with the creation of a detailed diagram showing the location of furniture and the arrangement of household appliances.

To connect a dishwasher and washing machine, refrigerator - 10-20 cm from floor level. This is the best option in relation to the length of the electrical cord of the technique. Some models of household appliances have a short wire, which will not be enough if the outlet is located at a height of 50 cm.
To connect small appliances (multicooker, microwave oven, toaster, etc.), the socket is installed at a distance of 20 cm from the tabletop level, or 110 cm from the floor.
A separate socket is mounted under the hood at a distance of 2 m from the floor. There must be at least 20 cm from the middle of the hood to the outlet so that the ventilation duct does not block the outlet openings.
"Power points" for built-in appliances are best placed behind the walls of cabinets and cabinets. For free access, you will have to cut out their back walls. The recommended installation height of sockets in furniture is 30-60 cm from the floor. In this case, it is necessary to check that the socket was not located directly behind the built-in electrical appliances.
It is convenient to place sockets for lighting fixtures of wall cabinets at a height of about 5-10 cm above the furniture.

Important! The total power of the electric lines supplied to the kitchen must be with a margin in order to be able to turn on all consumption points at the same time.

oven, hob are equipped with power outlets designed for a current of 32-40 A;
a separate power line is laid for a heater with a power of more than 3.5 W;
16 A sockets are suitable for installing a refrigerator, microwave oven, food processor, toaster, double boiler and other electrical appliances.

Sockets and switches in the bedroom and living room

For comfortable and convenient use, it is customary to install an outlet and a switch on both sides of a double bed. Placement height - 70 cm from floor level. This distance allows you to plug in a lamp and place it on the bedside table, charge your phone, and control the main lighting without getting out of bed. Traditionally, one switch is installed at the front door.

Additional sockets must be placed near a desk or dressing table. At the desk at the level of 30 cm from the floor, a block is installed for two or three sockets for connecting a computer. A second block for a couple of outlets should be provided above the desk (15 cm from the desk) for a desk lamp.

In the living room, it is imperative to provide several outlets at a distance of 130 cm from the floor, which will be hidden behind the TV. This area should have both regular sockets and an Internet socket. Depending on the arrangement of furniture and the division of the room into functional zones, other "food points" are placed, for example, for a floor lamp near an armchair or a music system.

It will not be superfluous to install a backup outlet, for example, to connect an air conditioner or vacuum cleaner.

The switch in the living room is usually installed only at the front door. In rooms with multi-level ceilings, sometimes "complex" lighting is used. In such cases, it is advisable to place the switches on several keys.

Placing power points and switches in the bathroom

The bathroom is a room with high humidity. All installed sockets must have a degree of protection of at least IP44 and a splash-proof cover, connection through an RCD. Placing sockets near (less than 60 cm) a bathtub, washbasin or shower stall is prohibited.

under a washing machine - 100 cm;
for connecting a water heater - 180 cm from the floor;
additional socket near the sink for connecting a hairdryer, razor or toothbrush - 110 cm.

Important! The products must not be installed below 15 cm from the floor. This is due to the fact that in the bathroom there is an increased risk of small floods triggered by malfunctioning household appliances or forgetfulness of the owners. So that this situation does not pose a threat to human life, the sockets must be installed above 15 cm.

Switches are usually placed outside the bathroom and placed in front of the entrance.

Development of a project for the placement of switches and sockets. Useful Tips

You can correctly design the location and height of switches and sockets by adhering to the following sequence:

Installation of switches and sockets in buildings for various purposes

For a number of buildings, individual norms for the placement of sockets and switches are provided:

The installation height of switches in childcare facilities (kindergartens, schools, camps) is 1.8 m from floor level. Sockets should be installed at the same level.
In catering and retail establishments, the distance from the floor to the outlet is 1.3 m. The installation height of the circuit breakers is 1.2-1.6 m.
Installation of switches in hazardous areas is prohibited. The standards do not affect the height of the placement, the main condition is the placement of switches and fuses for lighting devices outside the hazardous areas.

Using simple rules, safety standards and common sense, it will be possible to achieve the optimal location of switches and outlets at home. It is better to correctly foresee and calculate everything in advance than to subsequently redo all the electrical wiring.