Assembling the shower cabin with your own hands: Self-step assembly of shower cabins. Installation of a shower cabin: Order and subtleties Install the shower cabin with your own hands

Another seemingly recently recently showers Most of us saw only in a movie or in advertising magazines. This sanitary "unit" was perceived, rather, not as a convenient complex for regular hygienic procedures, but as a matter of luxury, not all available. But a very little time passed, and the cabin turned into a faithful assistant, sometimes, even more useful, than the usual bathroom from ornamental years.

And to judge logically - is it often in our time we use the bathroom? In the "Epoch" of meters on hot and cold water to spend 100 liters for the adoption of one procedure will allow themselves indefinitely not everyone - except, to pay a child. To wash in the bathrooms was also almost stopped - for this case, automatic washing machines were responsible for this, also moved from the discharge "elite" in a completely ordinary set of ordinary family. But without a soul can not do. In addition, it is impossible to forget about the eternal question of the insufficiency of space in the premises of bathrooms and bathrooms - and the acquisition and assembly of the shower cabin with their own hands, in most cases, it takes the sharpness of this problem.

Of course, if there is an opportunity to have something, and the other is great. But even in matters of ease of operation, the shower cabin leaves far behind with the mixer. Modern models make the process of the shower princess in a very pleasant, sometimes - even a wellness procedure. And some of them, in addition, allow the owners even "not off from the media space" - IP or GSM communication channels or the built-in FM radio will take care of this.

The article will provide brief recommendations on the selection of the desired model, and, most importantly, the reader must receive an answer to the question - it will be on the installation of the shower of the shower with their own hands for him, or it's still better not to risk, and contact the help of specialists.

"Aza" Devices of the Shower Cabin

To choose correctly and, then, competently install, you need at least To roughly understand its base device. Of course, the models of the cabins are a great set, but the general pattern of layout for everything is observed.

First of all, shower cabins differ in the type of construction.

• Open cabins - it's rather, just a space warmed up to taking the soul - they consist of walls and pallet. Although, in some cases, a special pallet may even be used - if a different way to collect and remove water into sewage system, for example, reliably waterproof Paul with a lady.

Open-type showers can be confused, but most often produced in the corner version - in this case, the role of two walls of the cabin take over, actually decorated with tiled walls of the room. If the room has some complicated configuration, then if you wish, you can choose a shower room designed to embed in a niche. In this option it becomes even easier - three walls are ready, and it remains only to install the facial, with the front door.

Sometimes in the reviews of such products, open cabins are called showers or shower fences.

• Closed booths can also be closed or angular, but they already represent a completely isolated boxing, with a pallet and a mandatory roof, with very tightly adjacent door flaps.

This design opens up ample opportunities in expanding the cabin functional. In the wall panel and ceiling, hydraulic nozzles are embedded to create massage jets, various shower nozzles, special devices and aromatherapy devices, to ensure the effect of steam bath or sauna with infrared heating. In fact, the usual shower cabin can be a kind of homemade universal bathroom and wellness complex.

• By the way, the owners of apartments that It would be desired to have a modern shower room, but at the same time not to abandon the presence of a bathroom (even in the constrained area of \u200b\u200bthe room), you can advise "hybrid" models. Such products, of course, are quite expensive, but they allow you to use the bathroom as needed, or turn it out (fully or certain her Plot) in shower.

Interesting design - combines and bathroom, and shower

Now - about the main components, starting below.

Pallet shower

The pallet is the "base" on which the entire design of the shower booth is based. Plus, it should also withstand the considerable weight of the washing adult of a solid complex. In short, the requirements for its strength are special.

Pallets can be manufactured from various materials. From time to time there are still metallic (enameled cast iron or stamped steel). Much more often, the cabins are equipped with pallets with polymeric, or made of special composite materials. The most common are acrylic or coniferous (kvaril - a more perfect composition, which is a mixture of acrylic and quartz filler. The popularity of artificial stone products is growing - a special polymer composite, perfectly imitating natural marble or granite.

The shape and size of the pallet, in principle, largely determines the volume and spacing the shower itself.

In form, they can be rectangular, pentagonal, segment in ½ or ¼ circle, take other, sufficiently complex configurations (for example, there are booths without a door in the form of a "snail"). When choosing the desired size, it is necessary to take into account that the space of the cabin should not strongly shy the movements of a man washing in it. This is especially important if there are very large or fat people in the family.

The minimum size of angular pallets is 800 × 800 mm, but it seems too close space. Of course, it is always necessary to proceed from the "territorial capabilities", but if the area allows you to, then the best option will be 900 × 900 mm or even 1000 × 1000. By the way, it is important and if for some reason someone From family members will need to take water treatments in a sitting position.

It would seem that only 10 - 20 centimeters, and how they differ in the spacious booths

Now - the depth of the pallet. According to this parameter, it can be flat, depth to more than 30 ÷ 40 mm, medium or deep (with a bowl of up to 180 mm). When choosing, again, it is necessary to take into account that sometimes not all family members will be comfortable to climb into the booth through high board (a considerable depth of the bowl itself, plus the pallet is on a certain elevation of the floor level). But on the other hand, the function of reliable collection of water and the timely removal of it in the sewer must be fully observed.

Often, homemade masters refuse the "regular" cabin pallet, and laid out its - from cement, with careful waterproofing, organization of reliable drain and facing with non-slip ceramic tiles. Then on this finished homemade pallet mounted walls of the cabin.

Vertical shower fencing

These elements include framework, fixed walls, regular or functional, and inlet doors of a particular design.

The frame, which is attached to the pallet and serves as the base for the walls of the booth, is usually made of light and resistant to metal corrosion (aluminum) or from plastic. Plastic frames are, of course, less durable, and they are often "masked" under the metal using surface color - when choosing, you need to be attentive.

The enclosing walls themselves are manufactured either from fiberglass or from natural tempered glass. Fiberglass is easier, cheaper, but in its inexpensive varieties there is a property gradually, under the action of time, temperature and humidity, lose transparency and saturation of the color, more torture, to be covered with a mesh of microcracks. If a plastic option is selected, it is better to immediately acquire the translucent - on it the specified disadvantages will be less significant and will remain unnoticed longer.

The glass walls are made of very durable material, and it is not possible to be afraid of split from it - it is practically impossible if, of course, this goal will not be given and not to apply a heavy tool. Yes, and in this case, the glass will split into small fragments of the right shape that should not be represented trampling.

The rear and side walls of some models are not just a fence, but perform many functions. It is on them that all plumbing devices are attached, including various mixers, shower watering cans, massage hydraulic nozzles, steam generators, backlight systems and other beams with all the necessary elements of mechanical or electronic control for them. On the back of these walls, all the necessary hydraulic and electrical wiring with nodes of connection to the water supply, power grid and, if necessary, to other communications are held.

The doors in the shower cabin can be swollen, sliding (folding or sliding) or swivel-sliding, rotating relative to the vertical axis.

From the point of view of ease of installation and practicality in operation, of course, the usual swing doors, one- or duplex. But they also have a disadvantage - they require a certain space for opening relative to the suspension axis. In large cabins sometimes make doors opening inside. Well, in models of small things will have to provide space for the sash in order to accidentally not injure about it or do not break the door.

Sliding such a shortage does not have - they move along the rails "rails" using the system of suspended and stubborn rollers. This gives some complexity of assembly and adjusting work, but quite conveniently in the process of use.

Usually all vertical fences of the shower cabin, regardless of the material of the manufacture, are covered with a special hydrophobic material. This measure does not give water drops to remain on the walls - they simply flow down, not leaving the characteristic spots after drying.

Roof of shower

This structural element, as already mentioned, is not all models, but where there is a lid, it performs several important functions:

• First, it is sealed space of the cabin, especially if it implements the possibility of "steam bath" or "aromatherapy".
• Secondly, several plumbing devices are attached in the lid - a shower, massage nozzles, and the like.
• Third, it is on the roof that the ventilation system is collected with a steam tap into the ventilation channels of the house.
• And, fourth, various electrical devices can be mounted on the lid, for example, acoustic systems or backlight points.

Additional equipment of the shower

Sometimes it seems that in questions of the additional equipment of shower cabins, some manufacturers simply try to "promise" each other. So, in addition to the usual and shower, as already mentioned, various massage jets are used, the effects of "tropical rain". We are in demand for model with steam generators, especially with the possibility of adjusting the temperature of the steam and its saturation of aromatic or cosmetic compositions. It is possible to ionization (ozoning) air. Embed into the Cabin Mobile Communications, Radio, Other media opportunityMounted original types of highlighting, voice control by all the laid functions. Is it worth paying considerable money for such "beams" - the question is purely individual.

But from the point of view of operational opportunities, one of the features should be paid attention to. The fact is that showers equipped with massage nozzles require a certain pressure at the inlet of water. Very often there are situations when after editing the owner of the cabin suddenly faces the fact that the souls - and that flows barely, but does not go about the hydromassage and speech. And the reason is that it was necessary to compare the parameters of the model and pressure in the plumbing network. Thus, in high-rise buildings, the pressure usually rarely exceeds 1.5 ÷ 2 atmospheres (and in high floors can and fall to critically small marks), and only 3 ÷ 4 atm may be required by the equipment parameters. It means that you will have to fork out for an electric pump and a water receiver (hydroaccumulator), where the water will be supplied to all hydraulic devices of the cabin under the desired pressure.

Prices for popular model of shower cabins and corners

Shower cabins and corners

Shower cabins produce quite a few manufacturers, both European and Asian, mainly from China. To the honor of our oriental friends, it can be said that the quality of their products is becoming more and more higher, and taking into account the relatively small price, their products make up quite serious competition recognized brands. Moreover, many Chinese companies began to inhibit European models in their licensing.

But there are almost all products from China one big "sin". If Europeans accompany their goods with carefully thought out instructions (if not even in Russian, they are easy to translate), then our Eastern neighbors approach this issue somewhat differently. Perhaps the problem lies in the "Difficulties of Translation", but, as a rule, "manuals" are vague, hard-readable text with a mass of errors, accompanied by the same enough unwarly filled with illegible pictures. In a word, disassemble how you want.

To help in an independent assembly of a standard isolated corner shower, we suggest look at this process in more detail with step-by-step presentation. Of course, each of the models have its own features, but the general principle will still be the same.

For example, the shower cabin of the Chinese assembly type "Ranchos-406" is taken. It belongs to the category of corner execution cabin, with a four-wheel trap pallet, with a minimum number of options - In addition to the hand shower, six hydromassage nozzles are provided on the back panel, and "tropical shower" from above. The size of the pallet (radial calculus, from the corner to the circle line) is 900 mm.

The price for similar shower booths is "democratic", about 14 ÷ 20 thousand rubles, and therefore it will probably be a shame to give it from top to 7 ÷ 7 thousand for the installation. Moreover, it does not differ in particular complexity.

• First of all, you need to prepare a place in advance where the cabin will be installed. The total weight of it, without taking into account the washing person - 83 kilograms, that is, the base should be durable, not to have unstable areas.

• It is very important to ensure the desired bias of the drain of water, that is, the height of the drain hole of the pallet over the input pipe into the sewer. So that the water confidently went, without lingering, it is required to excess in 70 mm or providing an angle of a slope of at least 5 degrees. If this is not respected, then it will probably have to immediately take action - or deepen the sewer pipes, or lift the booth, building a durable podium under it.

Prices for accessories for shower cabins

Components for shower cabins

Video: Option Podium for Shower Cabs

• It is clear that to the place of installation of a nudo, I fight to provide a supply of cold and hot water pipes, the power supply lines equipped with a security device with a safety device -
• To work, you need to prepare a free plot near the place of the future stationary installation - at first all actions will be held there. There must be necessary tools at hand - wrench (better - adjustable), screwdriver or screwdriver with a set of bit, a sharp construction knife, syringe and tubes with silicone or acrylic sealant, measuring instrument - roulette and, be sure, the construction level. There should be a bit of paint, about 50 g, for metal surfaces (it is best to use Akzonobel "Hammerite", which can be applied to rust), and, accordingly, brush. The acrylic pallet from the back - is sufficiently dangerous in terms of obtaining cutting wounds on hands or deep-headed heads, so all work must be carried out in mittens (dense tissue gloves).

• Work starts with unpacking a set of future cabin. You need to immediately make sure and the integrity of all major parts - first of all, of course, glasses. They are still removed aside to accidentally damage.

Jumpy immediately checked - very often there are some shortcomings "in small things"

• Immediately checks and the presence of the whole zip. If in terms of large components or accessories of precedents non-compliant It was not yet noted, then in terms of fasteners with a probability close to 100%, there will be some deficit - or self-tapping screws, or nuts, or the puck M16 is not enough. Therefore, it is better to immediately check and create the necessary reserve - it will be a shame to be distracted in the midst of work due to such trifles.

Pay attention to the drain siphon (the figure shows the green arrow). As a rule, the one that comes in the kit - it does not withstand any criticism, and it is better to purchase a decent one in advance to which you can rely.

• The pallet turns over the bowl down. The surface on which will be produce Working with him should not scratch his face surface - you may have to raise any soft material. Once again, warnings - all the work is made only with mittens mounted ones!

• Four studs are embraced into the landing holes: three in the corners and one - in the center of the arc. To drag them the key in no case. Studs will not accept the perfect vertical position - let it do not bother you, at the moment it does not matter.

The nuts, on top of which the washers are installed on the pitch, are tightened to the heels (in the figure are shown by green arrows).

• Metal pallet support racks are put on the studs. At first, we dress a one-piece, shorter beam - it goes from the stud in the back corner to the arcuate face. Then the second one, consisting of two halves, cooked on top of the metal plate, is put on top of it.

When installing the first, short beam, you need to ensure that the threaded hole (nut) to install the central support leg is outside, and from the crossing of beams - closer to the front of the cabin (shown by the green arrow).

Once again, for control - the premium beam is installed at the top (shown by a white arrow), otherwise the uniform clamp of the pallet to the supports will not be provided, and its deformation can begin.

• After the beams are attached, the studs will take a tissue vertical position. The lower nuts can be corrected, so that the beams are fluent on the surface of the pallet. From above, it is put on one puck and tightened fixing nuts (shown by a green arrow). However, it should not be delayed yet.

• Now it came to fix the beams to the pallet with the help of self-tapping screws. To do this, in the thickness of acrylic in the right places, wooden inserts are filled. Their location exactly coincides with the holes made in the metal profile. It remains only with the help of a figured screwdriver to complete the self-tapping screws, there are previously lined on them included in the washer kit.

• After all the screws are completely screwed, you can finally fix the beams on the vertically standing legs. This is done very neatly, even efforts from above and below, so as not to disturb the position of the protein and by chance it is thereby not to pull the self-tapping screw.

• Now now - an important point, which is never said in any factory Chinese instruction. Support beams are made of conventional steel, which in conditions of high humidity will very quickly start rust and will not last long. So, you need to be lazy, and to sneak all suspicious places of paint "Hammerite" (its color - absolutely not important). This precautionary measures will create reliable protection against corrosion - the main thing, not to leave the "naked" sites. By the way, the ends at the beams are kenned by plastic rectangular corks, and under them, as a rule, the metal of the metal has been corrosive. Be sure to pull the plugs, sneaking the cavity to the maximum available depth, and then put the plugs in place.

• The next step can be turned on either studs and pre-fix the knocked out legs. It should not be stopped hard, since the main alignment will still be done later, after installing the cabin already at its regular place. (In the picture, the arrow additionally shows the painted and plugged hole in the metal beam).

Do not forget to wear brackets for fastening the decorative "apron"!

When installing the legs, do not forget to pre-put on the studs special brackets that are necessary to install a decorative "skirt" - a screen closing the space under the bottom. True, this operation is the installation of the screen, it will be better to postpone the easier of work.

• You can and need to immediately install the legs for one height. It is used with a long construction level (or a long rule with a level), with such a calculation so that the control measurements can be carried out between adjacent legs and diagonally. In addition, the level and central supporting leg is defused. After that, the legs are first fixed with locknuts.

• You can turn the pallet and check its position on the floor. It should stand steadily, immediately at five points of support. It is especially important to prevent the central leg savings - it can end the surface of the pallet.

• Now you can screw the exhaust valve with a tube for the pallet (unless, of course, the need is felt). Such an option, however, makes it possible to take foot baths and can be useful.

As already mentioned, the siphon is better to change, although the picture is shown "CHINET"

• After that, the graduation siphon is installed in place. The picture shows the installation of the siphon in the package. However, as already noted, it is not better quality, and it is worth not to suck on a nice, crankshaft or a bottle type, depending on the bottom of the floor lumen.
• The following complex operation is an assembly of a block of front arcuate fences of the shower cabin with side glass inserts.

The difficulty is that to begin with, it is necessary to deal with the purpose of the parts, they are not at all symmetrical. The upper curved guide is always wider, lower - significantly less in height, but has noticeable curly cuts along the edges.

The glasses also distinguish the top and bottom. The difference is noticeable in the number of holes - at the top of them more.

Operation requiring special accuracy - assembly of frame and stationary glasses of front fence

• To begin with, we collect the design, as they say "on the weight." Glass has visible edges with grooves - they must be well coincide with the upper and lower guides.

• After that, the glass should be consistently slightly push their groove - only to apply a small amount of silicone sealant in a syringe there (it is better to use transparent). Then the glass is inserted until it stops into place, and the excessive sealant spoke immediately. It is "in fresh" very easy to make your finger dipped in a thick soap solution. On the ruster there is a clamping retainer (shown by a green arrow). It pulls up a screwdriver, and the glass will be securely installed.

• Next, you need to install vertical racks on the outer contours of both glasses. There is a regular seal, and the silicone does not need to miss. Just the rack is dressed on the glass until it stops, and is fixed with arcuate guide screws on top and bottom.

• It remains only to wear on the inner verge of installed glasses in the set of silicone seals. At the same time, watch the broader side - "petal", remained inside the cabin. The sealer dresses up to the stop, some special fixation or additional use of silicone in this case is not required.

• The assembled node should be immediately installed on the pallet. The pallet is not yet on a regular place, but must be completely stable and stand strictly horizontally - not too much Will check it out.

This is especially important because the front arcuate fence with side windows is mounted exclusively on the sealant, and it is necessary, at first, before fixing with the side walls, only under its own severity. No mounts to the pallet with self-drawers are not provided here. When scolding a sealant of installation location, you must follow so that the waste grooves for water are not closed.

Preparation for the installation of side panels - the place of connection is missing sealant

• It's time to install lateral opaque panels. The places of their junctions with vertical stands of the front fence are abundant with silicone sealant - the gaps can not be left here.

Similarly - on the site of mounting panels to the pallet

Similarly, the sealant is applied to the pallet, in the area where the side wall will be. And again - in no case fill in sealant the waste grooves for water.

• Then with the help of self-tapping screws with themselves, the pucks are fasten with each other vertical wall profile S. vertical guide front fence, as well as lower wall profile S. pallet. And in that, in another case, special holes are provided for this. Self-tapping screws tightly, until it stops. Speaking excess sealants are immediately removed.

After installing both side walls, this design should turn out. You can proceed to the installation of the rear panel with control elements and plumbing reinforcement.

• For this, the silicone strips are applied in the same way as before, a silicone strips are applied to the pair of vertical and horizontal parts - along the side walls of the side walls and in the contact line on the pallet.

IMPORTANT - Initially, to put everything, and only then tighten the connecting screws to tight

• Now you can neatly install the rear panel and grab it in the places of fastening with self-draws. To begin with - it is to grab that to cost all the fasteners, as it may be necessary for a small backlash. After that, all the self-tapping screws are completely tightened, excessive sealants, just as before, are cleaned.

The rear panel is installed. It is recommended to leave the design for a day - let the sealant dry

In this position, the design is recommended to leave for a day - during this time the sealant is completely vulcanizedIt will freeze, and the assembled cabin will type the desired strength. Go to the doorway of the doors only after that.

• And during this time you can prepare the doors to the hitch. Silicone sealing inserts are installed at the vertical edges of the glass curved canvas. The one that is put on the ruging edge of the glass must be focused by the "petal" outside, and walking along the inner edge - on the contrary.
• Insert and mounted roller, upper and lower sockets. The tops are adjustable, and for the initial installation is temporarily fixed in the extreme upper position. The lower is just spring-loaded, push - they will allow them to pull them when mounting the door.

• After the sealant needed to frost, the time came out, the doors are suspended by the upper rollers on the upper guide, the lower rollers after the temporary clamp should be in its "rail". Now, tightening the upper rollers adjustment screws, it is necessary to achieve, first, reliable suspension, without a backup, secondly - smooth closing and opening, without errors, and, thirdly - uniform convergence of sash throughout the vertical line so that not There was a gap to penetrate water splashing.

• All adjusting screws must be subsequently closed with plastic plugs. The door is checked on "performance". After that, you can move to the installation of the top of the cabin - its roofs.

Home Detail - The roof cap on which several elements are mounted

• At its essence, the roof is a ready-made figured part, but it needs to be installed several additional elements. It is a shower for "tropical rain", exhaust fans and acoustic head - speaker for connecting to the radio or to the phone.

Fans are attached to the self-tapping screw ...

• Fans are attached to self-drawing on the place prepared for them. Often you can hear complaints that the centering of the holes does not match. Well, you will have to work a drill or screw the screws in the plastic "alive". It is not scary - this place will still be covered with a decorative cap.

... and speaker. It is desirable to lick the sealant

• Fastening the dynamics differs little - the same screws. By the way, when installing the dynamics, and when installing fans, it will be worthwhile to wash the seat with silicone sealant - it will become a kind of gasket and remove noise - the coverage will not resonate strongly.

Installation of Tropical Shine Nozzles with Side Water Hose

• The shower head for the "tropical shower" is first attached in its socket with a special nut, and then a flexible sleeve is connected to it, which will subsequently go to the hydraulic zero of the backbone of the cabin. The connection is very simple - a clamp, and there should be no problems.

The bottom of the roof looks much more nice ...

Everything, the roof can be lifted and installed on the cabin The same sealant and regular metal fasteners.

• It remained complete a bunch of small parts - shiny handles for doors, shelves, mirrors, holders for the soul - all this is neatly installed on the regular fastener.
• Next, it is necessary to move very gently to move the booth into its place, where it will already be stationary. This setting must be preceded by the Cabin Connection. to sewage, to plumbing Highways and to electrical communications. All connection points are located on the back of the rear panel, and the access here will not be here. The compound is made by special flexible hoses, and a terminal cable connector is provided for electric switching. To connect the booth, with a lack of plumbing and electrical experience, it is better to apply to the relevant specialists or to those who understand these issues.
• After the cabin is connected, it is always thoroughly checked by the horizontal position of its position and the uniform of the adjacent of the supporting legs to the surface or the podium. In the case of anything - it's not too late to make adjustments. Recommended, in addition, for reliability, fix legs, for example, "putting" them on a layer of silicone sealant.

After connecting to all communication, careful practical check, can be considered the cabin installed and finish the installation of decorative "apron"

• Next, it is necessary to carry out "running tests" - to arrange a full-fledged dispersion cycle using all modes. The main goal is to make sure that the cabin is stable, the pallet does not creak and does not "walk", the doors and walls are not thrown away and they do not let water splashes or drowshes.
• Now you can make the final step 0 to set onto the brackets with a decorative "skirt", which will close the lumen between the floor and the pallet and give the sun cabin to it a finished look.

And finally, one more video, the installation of a simpler corner-type cabin.

Video: Independent installation of the corner shower shirma

Performing repair, many prefer the shower cabins and boxes, instead of traditional baths. Assembling the shower cabin with your own hands - not a difficult lesson, if you know the sequence of actions (for this our video instruction is suitable) and have the necessary tools.

Choosing a shower cabin

Depends, first of all, from the aesthetic expectations and budget of the apartment owner.

Types of shower cabins

Conditionally shower cabins can be divided into three types:

• simple shower corners. These are ordinary booths, which for the most part do not have roofs, and the role of the side walls is performed by the walls of the bathroom. They only perform the soul functions and do not require special skills to perform installation;
• simple showers. More expensive cost, they have 4 walls and roof. Usually equipped with several nozzles, water pressure from which can be adjusted, as well as the hydromassage function;
• multifunctional shower cabins and boxes. These are booths with rich technical equipment - shower Charcot, generation of steam, Turkish bath, Tropical rain function, etc. Often such models are equipped with a variety of backlights, radio. Because of the abundance of functions, they are quite complex in montage and require certain skills.
• In addition, the cabins differ in the material manufacturing material (acrylic, plastic, steel, cast iron), material manufacturing material (impact resistant glass, plastic), type of opening (swing, sliding, bivalve, folding). The size and shape of the cabin should be chosen based on the area of \u200b\u200bthe bathroom.

Preparation for installation of the cab

After the cabin is chosen and delivered, the question arises - how to connect a shower cabin? Does the specialist be invited, or can you cope with this work yourself? If there is an assembly scheme and a minimum set of knowledge, then it is quite possible to do without your own.

Scheme: Device of the Shower Cab

Constructive shower consists of four main elements:

• pallet on height adjustable legs,
• roof,
• doors with roller mechanism,
• wall and side panels.

The package includes a step-by-step scheme for assembling in Russian. Its presence must be checked at the delivery stage. Before starting the installation of the shower with your own hands, it is necessary to check for all components in accordance with the instructions and free them from the packaging film.

In advance, it is necessary to prepare all the tools and materials that will be required during the installation process. This includes:

• tools - keys, screwdrivers, screwdriver, drill, level, roulette, thread-cutting club;
• consumables - sealant, sealing and insulating tapes for the shower;
• sewer fittings - siphon, fittings, hoses and pipes.

What will be needed for mounting the shower cabin do it yourself

If the cabin must be connected to the power supply, then the power tools and electrical fittings may be required.

Important! Budget models of shower cabins to collect and connect to sewage are not independently difficult. If the cabin provides for many functions, it is better to trust it with a specialist, since the violation of the installation rules entails the warranty service.

Cabin installation steps

The assembly of the shower cabin is produced in stages:

• setting the base of the cabin with a sewage supply;
• installation of walls, doors and cockpit roof;
• connecting water supply and electricians;
• check tightness and trial launch.

Before you start assembling the shower cabin, carefully examine the instructions.

Performing an assembly at the initial stage, it should not be tightened to the end of the fasteners. It is recommended to first make a preliminary assembly, make sure that all items in their places are completely connected, and only then tighten the fastener until it stops.

Selecting sealant

The sealant is a fairly important consumator used when installing the shower cabin. Further operation will depend on its quality. Severe two main types of sealants used during installation:

• acrylic. More affordable in value, it sufficiently stands out the temperature differences and humidity. But from constant interaction with water can lose its properties, so it is necessary to use it with caution;
• silicone. This is the most common type. The cost is slightly higher than acrylic, but, at the same time, it thoroughly fills all the grooves and joints and prevents the occurrence of mold. When choosing silicone sealant, it is necessary to pay attention to the composition - it should not be impurities of resin. The choice is better to do in favor of more expensive sealants.

Silicone Sealant for Montage Shower Cab

Mounting cabin pallet

It is performed simultaneously with plum mounting. This stage needs to pay special attention, since the disorder of the integrity of the design can entail a bad drain and flooding.

The pallet installation is carried out in the following sequence:

• the palm is mounted legs and it is installed on a horizontal surface. Using the level, the required position is calculated, the legs are screwed to the necessary height and fixed;

Fastening legs on the pallet of the shower

• connecting to the pallet of the siphon. It is advisable to use a rigid tube to connect to the connection, and not a corrugation, since with time the pipe can be saved and clogged;
• siphon connects with sewage.

Install the pallet is necessary as close as possible to the sewage plum. If it is impossible, it may be necessary to use a waste pump with a magnetic valve.

Important! To connect the parts of the shower and sewage, use the sealant, as the seals although they provide a reliable connection, but over time it can relax.

Installation of cab walls

Installation of the walls of the shower cabin is also necessary to exercise, observing the following order:

• the guide structures in which the glasses will later be inserted, gently misses the transparent sealant;
• glass are installed and pressed with special legs, the seal is attached to them;
• silicone is applied along the edge of the pallet;
• side panels are attached to the pallet.

If the sealant is hit on the glass, it is necessary to remove it immediately, after drying the removal without traces will be quite complicated.

Installing the walls of the shower

The collected design must be left for a while, to complete drying of sealant and silicone. It usually takes up to two days.

Mounting Roof and Cab Doors

Before fastening the roof of the shower cabin in it, watering can be mounted, fan and lighting. Also, the design may provide for the presence of a speaker, it is also mounted in advance. All parts are attached to the self-tapping screw and sealant, which will exclude the flow.

Installing the door of the shower cabin with your own hands

After the roof is assembled, it is fixed using screws and sealants.

The door of the shower cabin can be mounted before or after fixing the roof, it depends on its design. Slide doors are fixed on special rollers on the frame. This is usually 8 rollers (4 top and bottom). After the doors are installed, you can proceed to install the handles and installation of the fittings. All shelves and holders are installed.

Power Cab Connection

The installation of the shower cabin does not always provide for the connection of the power supply. This may require a model equipped with a hydromassage or steam generator.

Shower cabin connected to the power supply

Connection must be carried out with a copper cable with a cross section of 2 sq. MM. If the cabin consumes more than 5 kW per hour, then additionally takes the installation of a single machine.

Important! To connect, it is better to invite a professional electrician that will ensure the safe operation of the device.

Connecting cockpit to water supply

When assembling the shower cabin is almost over, it is necessary to connect it to water supply.

This will require hoses and metal plastic Pipes. Installation order:

• first of all, all the materials are prepared, pipes are cut and fittings, cranes are selected;
• the water supply line in the bathroom is overlapped, the cranes for water supply to the cabin are connected;
• cranes are connected to the shower cabin in advance prepared pipes;
• water is served to test tightness.

Scheme: Connecting a shower to water supply

Hydromassage nozzles are often clogged with a lime bloom. For longer and uninterrupted operation of the shower cabin, it is advisable to use filters that will clean water before entering it into the nozzle.

If the cabin will be installed on the upper floors of multi-storey houses, then to provide its functions (for example, hydromassage), may not be enough water pressure. Then the pump and the water supply tank will be required. But, it is rather an exception to the rules - usually the water pressure for the work of the shower is quite enough.

First launch of the shower

When the installation of the shower cabin came to the end, it remains only to make the first launch and check its performance.

Before starting, it is necessary to check again to check the reliability of the fastening of all nuts, the tightness of the holes and joints. The pallet is better to check under the weight of its own weight - to hide in it. He should not make any sounds and stagger.

Before turning on the cabin, thoroughly check the tightness of all connections

After visual inspection, you can turn on the water supply. The cabin with the included water is better left for 10-15 minutes to make sure its tightness. If minimal inclination is detected, they must be fixed.

Observing the procedure described in the article, the cockpit connection can be made in the minimum deadlines and without financial costs.

How to collect and install a shower cabin with your own hands: video

In this article, the site proposes to consider the assembly process and installation of acrylic bowl, walls and accessories of the shower cabin. We led detailed instructions and video tutorials for beginners. The article is a manual for the assembly of standard hydrobox with side walls and additional equipment.

The shower cabin is becoming increasingly popular due to the shortage of free space in the apartment bathrooms and its multifunctionality. Installing the shower cabin with your own hands will be difficult for someone who has basic skills to work with a conventional tool. This work can be performed at different stages - for example, only installation, connection, laying of water supply and sewage or all together.

These products have several degrees of differences from which their price primarily depends. Below are their signs.

Drop design

The pallet can be both built into the floor and outdoor. In real practice, 70% of the installed pallets in apartments are external.

Availability of walls

Economic options for shower cabins do not have factory rear and side walls - their function is performed by the walls of the bathroom, decorated with waterproof material. Their installation is the easiest, you only need to install the pallet and secure the door profile. For these products, the installation of the shower cabin does not represent any particular difficulties.

Models with walls are an independent design made in a single style. They are more expensive due to more elements. In addition, their installation is more complicated and requires accuracy and accuracy.

Optional equipment

The factory rear walls give the advantage of protecting the walls of the room, as well as the sinus in which you can place auxiliary channels and devices. The most developed models are equipped with massage nozzles, different shower devices, fittings and electronic control. Such cabins are called "hydrobocks" and they occupy the top positions at the price.

How to install a shower cabin on your own. Operating procedure

The path from the detail set in the cardboard box to the working device (device) consists of several stages.

"Zero stage" - preparation. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Determination of available sizes and pallet area.
2. Determination of water supply and water removal points.
3. Select a model that meets the real requirements (pallet size, feature set).
4. Additional installation of water supply and sewage under the selected model.
5. Alignment and sealing of the installation site of the pallet (if necessary), the location of the water supply and sewage must be available after installation.

The choice of model is an extremely important point. To make sure that you acquire exactly what you need, try to find a real acting pattern and experience it.

After clarifying eyeliner and purchase of the product, you can proceed directly to the installation. This will help you instructions for assembling a shower cabin, which is necessarily attached to each product.

Video on self-assembling and installation of the shower:

Assembling pallet

Most standard medium price pallets are combined by the following signs:

1. Corner design.
2. Acrylic bowl on a frame from a metal profile.
3. Separate panels covering the inside of the pallet.
4. Height 450-550 mm.

The main elements of all pallets coincide independently of the other parts (walls, doors), so the pallet assembly is the standard procedure.

Operating procedure:

1. Install an acrylic bowl upside down next to the installation site.

2. Set the Bowl screen to the project position (under the side of the bowl).

3. Fix the screenshot's paw screws - the panel must be kept without the backlash and gaps.

Note. In places of fasteners to the cup of other elements, it is always thickened (under the self-sufficiency) or mortgage parts. This is necessarily indicated in the instructions.

4. Tracing the metal frame. Her ribs should coincide with thickening at the bottom of the bowl.

5. Through the mounting holes to sell the threaded thrust (Ø 14, in the kit) and screw it up to the stop in the seating. Install restrictive locknuts and adjust the gap between the frame and the bottom 15-20 mm.

6. Apply a silicone sealant to the profile of the profile with acrylic and tightly press the frame with locknuts to the bowl. In the free console, also install studs.

Attention! The force of the tightening does not have a decisive value. Try not to cut down the mortgages.

7. We install the plastic stops of the screen on the front range of the screens. Sometimes they are pressed by self-drawing.

8. Hour legs.

9. Install the siphon and water-filled fittings.

Attention! Use silicone and winding. The compound must be very reliable, since the place of possible leaks is outside the visual access zone.

10. We establish a pallet to the place of permanent use, and we make a fine adjustment of stability (twisted the legs).

11. Connect and test the sewer.

On such a pallet, you can install any walls suitable in size.

Preparation and installation of walls

Before installing, make sure that the package matches the documents. If you decide to assemble a shower cabin with your own hands, you have to study every step. Assembling wall parts - responsible stage, since possible trouble will be hidden from eyes. All connections of tubes and wires (if any) must be performed strictly according to the instructions.

Attention! Do not rely on intuition when assembling the products of the Economy segment. Compelate with experienced masters who know how to assemble a shower cabin. Video and forums on the Internet are also very helpful and visual.

Video - how to assemble the rear shower panel:

After pre-installation of the equipment, the wall should simply be installed on the seats. Sometimes they have factory holes, sometimes not.

The finished design is inserted into the angle until it stops and put the top plugs of the sinuses. It should be careful. Then you need to adjust the legs once again. Test pallet for stability.

Mounting portal

Frame with a profile, according to which the doors walk, may be an independent, or can rely on the wall of the room. Regardless of the design, the assembly principle is approximately the same:

1. Collect the frame or install the upper and lower rail.
2. Create the door to the readiness of the door - hang fittings, rollers.
3. Install stationary walls (if any).
4. If there is a side profile - install it through silicone.
5. Put the doors to the project position.
6. Check the course, adjust the guides.
7. Add waterproofing silicone accessories - valves, aprons, plugs.

After all these operations, if they are completed correctly, you can connect water and use the shower.

Shower Cabs Prices

Prepress the exact price for a model with those or other properties is very difficult. The quality of materials is crucial, which directly affects durability.

For example, a shower cabin of high-quality thick plastic with one function (shower) of the EU production will cost as much as Chinese hydrobox maximum configuration - from 15 to 50 thousand rubles.

Note: Shower cabins that are located in the lower price category have a real service life - no more than 10 years with daily exploitation with two people. Do not forget about it when choosing and using your shower.

More complex models with many adjustments, a large bowl, jacuzzi will cost 50-150 thousand rubles. (depending on the manufacturer). Price category 150-250 thousand rubles. There are reliable products that have an exclusive design or at all made to order.

The techniques of hydrobocoxes simply amazes - there are models with a function of an infrared sauna or even a Turkish bath. Their price begins from 300 thousand rubles.

rMNT.ru, Igor Maksimov

Many prefer high-tech, alternating a very attractive multifunctional set in the form of light and sound aromatherapy, hydromassage and steam baths, or a compact shower corner.

In addition, the high optional density does not prevent the implementation of a full-fledged installation cycle independently.

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What will this article and its maintenance be useful:

Shower Cabs Installation and Mounting Specity

Overlook the assembly of the shower cabin conditionally, it is customary to divide on several stagesin which installation takes place:

• pallet;
• side panels;
• doors;
• roofs;
• additional equipment providing water and electricity supply.

Setting the pallet

Absolutely any shower Cabin Installation Scheme Initially provides for the need to install the pallet. Operation is produced in the next sequence:

• the assembly unit is fastened with a power frame and studs, in the future they also perform the function of the legs;
• the pallet is equipped with reinforcement for drain and siphon;
• by regulating the height of the legs, the design is aligned relative to the floor;
• checking the drain system for tightness.

When organizing a draining system, the following should be considered recommendations:

• the pallet must be guaranteed above the level of sewage pipes;
• the channel connecting the siphon of the pallet with the sewage system must be laid with a slope to ensure the possibility of spontaneous movement of the fluid;
• in the case of a remote location of the cabin and sewer flow, the drain system should be equipped with a pump;
• the joints of the system elements must be processed by sealant.

Instructions for assembling side panels and doors

Traditionally vertical panels Mix directly to the previously installed tray with bolted connections. Pre-place the joint is processed by a sealant.

Important! The limit deviation of the walls of the cabin from the vertical position should be no more than 5 cm.

A multifunctional shower rack with the use of self-uses is attached to the fixed panels.

The subsequent installation of the shower cabin on the video proposed below is to assemble the door frame. The latter is a system of vertical racks and, often two horizontal guides. The mounted frame is fixed relative to the pallet and vertical panels.

Installation of doors Cabins are made in accordance with such technology:

• the upper rollers are installed in the maximum top position vertically;
• silicone seals are installed;
• the door is mounted in the frame - the bottom rollers (by pressing along the vertical) are refilled into the appropriate guide;
• called door handles and other fittings.

The doors are subject to adjustment: rotating the upper rollers adjusting screws must achieve a dense closure of the sash and the free movement of the elements by the guides.

Installation of the ceiling panel

The roof of the shower cabin is pre-equipped with integral elements of optional systems:

• watering can;
• fan;
• illumination;
• speaker.

The resulting assembly unit is based using the sealant on the support formed by the side panels and the door frame and is fixed.

Sourming of communications and video of all stages of mounting the shower cabin with their own hands

Water connection made by flexible eyeliner and locking reinforcement. It is strongly recommended in the water supply system to use the filter element.

For your information! If there is an arsenal options for the hydromassage function, you should pay attention to the desired water pressure at the input. Usually this value is at least 2 atm.

Electricity In the installation schemes of various shower cabins, special attention is paid. The generalized system of requirements for the technology of connecting to the power grid is based on the following principles:

• a moisture protection socket is installed;
• protective automatic shutdown of the cabin power supply is provided;
• a separate cable is laid from the camshaft.

Before organizing the power supply system, it is necessary to calculate the cable cross section required for the cabin power (usually at least 2.5 mm²). Preventive chain protection measures from short circuits and human damage to the current can be provided with the installation or a protective shutdown device in a pair with a circuit breaker, or a differential automaton.

The outlet is based on the base behind the cabin at a distance of 220-230 cm from the floor. It is allowed to use products with a water protection class not lower than 4th (IP x4). When choosing from two ways to install the product (open or hidden), it is necessary to prefer hidden.

Causes of some possible faults that have arisen during installation, see Table:

Attached montage Mounting Conventional Shower Cab Visually demonstrates key stages of the process of its assembly and installation.

1. Setting the pallet. The design is equipped with a frame, draining reinforcement, siphon; Checked for tightness and is regulated relative to the floor.
2. Fastening the side panels to the pallet.
3. Installation of the shower panel.
4. Assembly and installation of the door frame.
5. Installation and adjustment of doors.
6. Assembly and installation of the ceiling panel.
7. Water submission.
8. Organization of power supply system.

At the end of work, test tests are carried out, analyzing the tightness and stability of the booth, the performance of the drain system.

Shower cabin is an excellent bathroom alternative, especially if you have to equip a small-sized bathroom. However, the owners of spacious bathrooms are increasingly choosing comfortable and multifunctional shower cabins.

The choice of the optimal model, competent installation and careful operation - the key to the long, comfortable and uninterrupted use of the shower.

Benefits of using the shower

Shower cabin is a specially equipped, fenced place for taking a shower. Today, the possibilities of using shower races increased, various additional functions appeared: hydro massage, steam generator, stereo and other.

Many consumers celebrate a number of the advantages of the shower in front of the bathroom:

Shower cabins: reviews

In order for all the advantages of the shower cabin to be fully implemented, it is necessary to choose the right model and correctly install it.

Types of shower Cabin: Features of structures and installation

All shower cabins can be divided into two main groups:

1. Shower corners - open cabins.
2. Shower boxes - closed cabins.

Shower corners

The angular shower cabin is one of the most popular models. The design of the cabin has no rear walls and roofs. The space around the shower cabin is limited from one or two sides by the walls of the cabin, and with others - the walls of the bathroom.

Open shower cabins can have a shower tray or installed directly on the floor of the bath.

To install a shower corner, you can purchase a ready-made cabin set (walls, doors and pallet) or select items separately

Depending on the depth of the pallet, open cabins can be divided into several types:

Low pallets do not have the ability to reinstall, as they are mounted overha. Installation of deep pallets on a metal framework allows you to maintain hidden communications, and if necessary, transfer the shower to another place

Shower cabins: Photo

Features of the design and installation of open shower cabins:

Shower corners from transparent glass visually expand space, giving elegance and ease of bathroom design

Shower boxes

Shower box - Fully closed space with entrance doors. A closed cabin has a roof and walls on all sides.

Such boxing is more convenient to use and easier to install. However, the cost of closed models is higher than on open showers (buy ordinary boxing without special functions, at a price of 30,000 rubles, and a shower corner is from 7,000 rubles).

The price of the shower cabin of the closed type directly depends on the number of built-in functions, box size and manufacturing material

Shower boxes can have such functions:

Even the most primitive models of closed cabins have a radio, top and side lighting, seating, shelves, dispenser for detergents and a mirror.

Criteria for selecting a high-quality shower

You must choose a shower room based on the needs of the family and the parameters of the bathroom.

Before buying a shower cabin, you need to test: Check the strength of the pallet (like the bottom of the cabin), watch the fastening of the frame with the pallet, try to rack boxing elements (high quality cabin should not be fused)

Independent installation of a shower cabin of a closed type

The installation circuit shower directly depends on the complexity of the design, and the assembly sequence for most models is the same.

Preparatory work

In order to have an idea of \u200b\u200bhow to collect a shower cabin, you need to familiarize yourself with the instructions that comes in the kit.

Before starting installation, you need to prepare such tools and materials:

• building level;
• silicone sealant;
• spanners;
• sharp knife;
• crosshead screwdriver;
• paint;
• brush;
• gloves;
• siphon for plum;
• flexible hoses;
• fuma ribbon or palable;
• chisel;
• a hammer;
• perforator;
• simple pencil;
• instructions for the shower.

The preparatory stage implies the implementation of a number of events:

Mounting pallet

The assembly of the shower must begin with the installation of the pallet:

Fastening panels and fences

Before starting the installation of panels, you need to decide on the location of the glasses. If there are no markings on the fences pointing to the top and bottom of the part, then you can focus on the number of mounting holes - usually above them more.

The procedure for installing panels and fences:

At this stage, you need to check the operation of electrical devices (illumination, ventilation).

Installation of roofs and doors

Before fixing the roof, you must install backlight, watering can and speakers on it.

The distance between the ceiling and the roof of the cockpit should be at least 25-30 cm

You can use the available holes for mounting the roof, and if necessary, make new ones. The roof is fixed by bolts and screws.

Doors of the shower cabin are installed after mounting the side, rear walls and roofs

Door installation sequence:

Now you can scout accessories (shelves, mirror, dispenser) and accessories (handles, handrail).

Cab connection to communications

To the cabin it is necessary to bring cold and hot water. It is desirable that the operating pressure of the cabin (1.5-4 bar) coincided with the pressure of the plumbing line.

To connect the shower cabin to the electrical outlet, you need to install a separate moisture diskette. The outlet must be positioned so that the wire tension has occurred (optimally - on the side or behind the cab).

For a socket in the bathroom, it is desirable to install the RCD and select a separate line of wiring.

Assembling shower cabins (instructions): video

Installing a shower corner without pallet

Installing a shower corner with a pallet is practically no different from the installation of a shower box. Differences occur if the shower cabin is mounted without pallet - on the floor of the bathroom.

Before installing the cabin, it is necessary to prepare the base as follows:

1. Determine the size of the corner and choose a place for it.
2. Perform waterproofing of the floor and adjacent walls.
3. Install on the floor drain gear - the grille through which the water is merged into the sewer system.
4. Facing tile on the floor of the shower cabin should have a very low degree of slip.

For high-quality water removal, the slope of the floor in the zone of the ladder should be at least 3 °

Prevention of faults and repair of the shower

The shower cabin is important to maintain clean and control the work of all its elements.

In order to prevent the breakdown of the most important details (mixer, nozzles, steam generator), you should take care of the quality of water and install the filters of mechanical water purification. Such measures will significantly reduce the risk of calcium formations on the working elements.

Once every three months, the cartridges or cartridges in the filters must be changed

Over time, the shower cabin can start leaking. The main cause of a malfunction is a bad stood of seams or a spank of silicone sealant.

In this case, the cabin in places of leakage should be disassembled, clean the parts from contamination and the remnants of the old layer of sealant. After that - to apply a new layer of silicone sealant, collect the cab and well to lure the seams.

Assembly of the multifunction cabin of a complex design is better to entrust the professional, and you can carry out the installation of simple box or angle yourself, the main thing is not to rush and clearly follow the instructions.