Lining wood paneling. How to sheathe walls with clapboard: expert recommendations

To decorate a wooden house, it is best to use natural materials that will only emphasize all the advantages of the structure. As such a material, natural wooden lining can be used, which is attractive, durable, environmentally friendly and has excellent thermal insulation properties. Interior decoration with clapboard of a wooden house is characterized by extreme simplicity. It doesn't take much time, but the look is stylish.

The advantages of wooden lining

Clapboard decoration will add solidity to any home. These panels are distinguished not only by their attractive appearance, but also provide an unusually pleasant aroma of natural wood in the room.

A comfortable microclimate is created in the rooms, the tree has the ability, if necessary, to absorb or release moisture. Plus, additional insulation of the house is created, heat losses become much less, which allows you to save on heating. Among artificial materials for decoration, wooden lining wins significantly at a low cost. You can use this material when decorating a house in country style, vintage.

Decorating a wooden house in ethnic style almost never does without clapboard. The coating is reliable, durable and warm.

The following advantages can also be noted:

1. Environmental friendliness and safety of use.
2. Simple surface treatment after installation, the fastening of the lining itself does not cause any difficulties. Even a novice master can handle the job.
3. The coating is durable, resistant to mechanical damage and shock. It is durable, the surface does not fade in the sun. The only problem is that the tree is on fire, but this issue can be solved quite simply. There are a large number of special impregnations that make panels resistant to heat and open flame.
4. The panels are resistant to the appearance of mildew and mold traces, they do not rot if the necessary maintenance rules are followed.
5. The thermal insulation properties of the lining are high. This cladding is even an additional layer of insulation, which significantly reduces heat loss, makes the indoor microclimate comfortable for residents.
6. Soundproofing properties are quite high, in such a house you will not hear street noises, the rooms will turn out to be well protected from extraneous sounds.
7. The appearance of the coating turns out to be stylish and attractive, there are many options for cladding, extraordinarily beautiful ornaments can be created from individual lamellas, especially for internal relaxation rooms in baths. For a residential building, this decoration method can also be used. The wood is suitable for bedrooms, kitchens, living rooms.
8. During finishing boards under the surface can be easily concealed communication.

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What is the lining made of?

Lining classification.

Only natural wood is used for the manufacture of the finishing material. This process is not the easiest, it is necessary to use special equipment. The quality of the panels obtained largely depends on how well all stages of production are followed, what kind of wood will be selected. The main stages of production:

1. First, an edged board is made from the timber.
2. The boards are dried using industrial equipment.
3. Further, the crucial stage begins, which consists in sawing the groove-ridge connection for the installation of the lining.
4. The panels are sanded to get the finished look.
5. After all panels of one batch have been produced, they are sorted.

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Sheathing in the house with clapboard

Methods for fastening lining with different profiles.

Decorating a wooden house can be done with various materials, but natural lining is the best option. It gives the house additional charm, the walls are breathable, and their thermophysical properties are improved. Installation of this type of coating is simple, it is quite possible to cope with it yourself. To sheathe a wooden house inside with a special clapboard, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

• wooden beam with dimensions 60 * 27 * 2500 mm;
• lining boards with dimensions 130 * 18 * 2500 mm;
• a wooden bar with dimensions of 75 * 75 mm, which is pre-treated with special copper salts;
• planed wooden boards, the thickness of which is 18 mm, it is necessary to calculate the thickness based on which walls were used during construction, whether additional thickness is required for better thermal insulation, strength; it also matters what kind of cladding is required for window, doorways;
• galvanized nails with dimensions of 6 * 60 mm;
• galvanized nails, the length of which is 40 mm, 60 mm;
• metal brackets;
• self-tapping screws 10 * 130 mm with plastic dowels;
• self-tapping screws 4 * 45 mm, designed for fastening the sheathing in the corners;
• special mastic with fast-hardening properties, which is made on the basis of polyurethane or acrylic;
• hammer, drill, hacksaw, spatula.

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Mounting the lining on the walls

Plating rules are simple. Clapboard decoration of a wooden house consists in choosing one of three methods of attaching the material to the surface of the walls:

1. The sheathing strip is nailed to the wall from the side of the tongue set in the longitudinal position. Nails are driven in obliquely.
2. Nails are driven into the clamps or clips. In this case, the finish will turn out to be more accurate and attractive, outwardly, the fasteners are completely invisible. In addition to nails, staples can also be used, it all depends on which method is more convenient.
3. Interior decoration is done on the front side, nails are nailed along the groove.

There can be several installation methods. The first of them involves the beginning of the cladding from the bottom of the wall, for which a wooden plank with dimensions of 20 * 20 mm is attached first. She will play the role of home for all other cladding boards. For fasteners, special galvanized nails with a length of 40 mm and 60 mm will be used. Interior trim according to the second method is slightly different. The starting board is attached from above, it will act as the basis for all further fasteners. It is necessary to start installation from the ceiling, stepping back 5 mm, and then start fastening from the corner of the wooden planks.

The planks are attached to the crate in the chosen way, but it must be remembered that the nails are driven deeply, the caps must be sunk, but try not to damage the tree itself.

Staples or nails are driven in so that they are not visible on the front side. When the first bar is installed, you can start fixing the second. To do this, insert the spike into the groove, achieve a tight connection of the boards. During work, it is required to constantly use a plumb line so that the surface is as flat as possible. All subsequent cladding is carried out in the same way.

The lining appeared on the building materials market relatively recently, but has already gained popularity. It provides excellent appearance, ease of installation and high durability.

Today clapboard cladding can be found on residential buildings, baths, office buildings and shops. This popularity is due to a number of advantages of this finishing material, including:

• excellent thermal insulation properties;
• protection from external factors (rain, wind, snow);
• ease of installation;
• soundproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• light weight;
• variety of material and color palette;
• increase in the life of the building.

Facade panels are made of plastic, metal, fiber cement, wood.

It is difficult to unequivocally determine the best lining. The choice always depends on the operating conditions and the purpose of the building. Before choosing a cladding, specialists must take into account the climatic features of the area, the type of structure and its operational properties.

In order to produce a competent comparative characteristic of the lining, you should consider its features in terms of such parameters as cost, durability, service life and safety.

Sometimes the cost of building material becomes a fundamental factor when choosing a lining. However, cheap does not mean good.

Of course, wood has a higher price and the cost of such panels depends on the type of wood and class. Today on the market there is a wide selection of class "A" or "Extra" euro lining. Stronger wood, strict quality control and distinction of defects cause a rather high price.

The most widespread is the "B" class pine lining, which is perfect for cladding country houses, terraces, baths.

Plastic (vinyl) lining will cost an order of magnitude cheaper, but at the same time, it does not provide the natural appearance that many people like so much.

The service life depends on the features of operation. Precipitation, temperature, air humidity and other criteria have a direct impact. Therefore, when choosing the type of distillation, all these factors should be considered.

Plastic lining is not at all afraid of moisture, but at the same time it does not have sufficient resistance to temperature extremes. Vinyl tolerates UV radiation, but it does not tolerate mechanical stress from the outside. Any small blow is enough and the integrity of the panels can be compromised.

The popularity of vinyl panels also determines the variety of color solutions, which allows you to select the appropriate range for the style and exterior of the building. The scope of vinyl products is very wide, they are widely used for facing balconies, loggias, arbors. But low frost resistance makes this material undesirable when facing houses in climatic zones with strong temperature changes.

An example of vinyl siding facade decoration

The tree is distinguished by its increased resistance to mechanical damage, is not afraid of sudden changes in temperature, but at the same time it does not like moisture. Specialists treat wooden lining with special protective compounds to improve its performance. Wood creates an atmosphere of warmth and comfort that no other material can convey.

If we talk about safety, then vinyl lining is not exposed to fire-resistant impregnation. When burning, vinyl melts, evaporating harmful substances.

Wood trim is an excellent solution for a sauna, terrace or private house. To increase the fire resistance, the boards are pre-treated with a special impregnation. The unique structure of the tree, its healing properties and environmental friendliness determine a wide demand for this material.

With inadequate care, the tree quickly loses its properties. It can crack, deform. For this very purpose, before installing this material, experts carry out a thorough treatment with special antiseptic and hydrophobic mixtures. This prevents the appearance of mold, mildew and protects the wood from moisture penetration. As for care, the wood is difficult to wash and clean. Over time, it can change its color and lose its original freshness.

Plastic, on the other hand, is easy to clean. Simply wipe with a damp cloth or apply a cleaning agent and the vinyl looks like it did when it was originally lined. Despite its high resistance to FU rays, plastic can eventually lose color brightness, which does not affect its performance in any way.

Vinyl clapboard is often called laminated type panels, which perfectly imitate the structure of wood, artificial stone or metal, which allows you to embody any design idea.

Thus, the plastic lining has the following advantages:

• low weight;
• UV resistance;
• variety of colors;
• long service life;
• ease of care;
• ease of installation.

Peculiarities

Wooden lining- these are panels of certain dimensions with a thorn-groove fastening. Coniferous and deciduous wood species are used for manufacturing. The most popular materials for the production of wooden lining are pine, spruce, ash, alder and linden. Less often you can find oak lining, which is explained by its high price.

Standard board sizes:

• the thickness of the board can vary from 12 to 25 mm;
• width - up to 150 mm;
• length - up to 6000 mm.

Euro lining, which is one of the varieties of wooden lining, is distinguished by higher strength and better workmanship. It belongs to class A, the quality standard regulates the presence of no more than one knot for every one and a half meters of the board. Higher requirements are imposed on its production, respectively, and the price for such material is much higher. Euro lining "Extra" class excludes any knots and cracks and is one of the most expensive materials.

The dimensions of the euro lining have stricter standards:

• the width is of four types 80, 100, 110 or 120 mm;
• the length of the board varies from 500 to 6000 mm;
• the thickness can be 13, 16 or 19 mm.

The stage of laying wooden boards is preceded by a special treatment with an antiseptic to prevent the occurrence of mold and mildew. Antiseptic treatment significantly increases the service life of the facing material and increases its strength and wear resistance.

Prices for wood preservatives

Impregnation for wood

What should be considered when choosing a wooden lining?

When choosing wooden planks as a cladding of a building, you need to pay attention to the following criteria:

• type of wood (pine, spruce, larch);
• wood class (extra, A, B, C);
• wood drying method. The strength of the material and its service life depend on this. For high-quality drying of the lining, special drying chambers are needed. This, of course, increases the cost of the product, but such material will also serve much longer.

Metal lining often referred to as metal siding. This material has a smooth surface that does not need additional processing and painting.

The metal lining has a high service life (about 50 years), withstands strong temperature changes, and does not corrode. But there are also disadvantages to this material. Metal lining is not flexible. The variety of colors, imitation wood or stone makes this type of lining quite versatile and popular building material.

Siding "L-Brus" (metal, coating "Ecostyle")

Wall paneling prices

Styling types

There are two ways to attach the lining: vertical and horizontal. Before choosing a method, you should take into account that vertical cladding will visually increase the height of the exterior of the building.

Horizontal, on the contrary, will visually enlarge the facade in breadth. Before buying material, calculate how many boards you will need for one and the other method. Consider the width and length of the planks to minimize waste.

Choosing a mounting method: disadvantages and advantages

There are several types of fixing the lining to the facade of the house. Each of them has its pluses and minuses, and the choice of method should be dictated not only by the cladding material, but also by the operational features.

A set of tools that you may need:

• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• a hacksaw for wood or a jigsaw;
• roulette;
• construction stapler;
• hammer;
• rule;
• level (water or alcohol).

Prices for popular models of rotary hammers

Perforators

In addition to high-quality and reliable tools, you will need the following consumables:

What work should be done in advance?

Before carrying out construction work, each board and timber must be carefully treated with an antiseptic.

Please note that many antiseptics contain a coloring pigment that will affect the decorative function of the lining. If you want to preserve the natural color of the wood, it is recommended to process only the inner part of the material, and varnish the outer part after installation. If the facade is being prepared for painting, it does not matter and both sides can be treated with an antiseptic.

Let the lining dry well so as not to impair its technical characteristics.

Facing the facade with wooden clapboard: step by step instructions

The process of cladding a building with clapboard is quite simple. Even without experience, but at the same time clearly following the instructions, you will be able to independently carry out the finishing work.

Before starting finishing work, you need to take care of the thermal insulation of the house. Choosing a material for insulation. There are several types of insulation for external cladding on the market today: mineral wool, glass wool, expanded polystyrene, cellulose insulation.

In order to decorate the house with clapboard and at the same time carry out thermal insulation work, it is necessary to mount the crate of the building. This will create the necessary air space between which you can lay an additional layer of insulation. All electrical wires and ventilation ducts are also hidden under the crate. In addition, the lathing provides proper ventilation, which significantly increases the service life of the facade finish. If the surface of the wall is perfectly flat and no additional insulation of the house is required, then the finishing strips can be nailed directly to the concrete wall with dowel-nails.

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Preparing the walls for the installation of the lathing

Step 1. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of the wall from any dirt and peeling fragments of paint, plaster. This can be done with a spatula.

Step 2. We remove all protruding structures and details from the facade (door trims, window frames, canopies, etc.). Those parts that cannot be dismantled must be cut using a grinder with a diamond wheel.

Step 3. We seal all cracks, large holes with cement mortar or putty on wood and let it dry well for a day.

Video - Repair of cracks on the wall of the house

Step 4. After complete drying, it is necessary to thoroughly process the facade with an antiseptic agent and prime it well. This will prevent the spread of mold and mildew on the walls. The antiseptic also serves as an excellent protection against termites and other harmful insects.

Installation of a two-layer lathing

For the installation of the lathing, it is necessary to choose dry weather, and the timber that will be used for construction must be dried and treated with an antiseptic. Drying of the material should be carried out for at least two weeks, since the maximum allowable moisture content of the timber can be 15%.

For the lathing of the house, a wooden or metal profile is suitable, but it is better to tie the choice of material to the lining itself. If you plan to veneer the facade with wood, then it is better to take wooden beams as a material for the lathing. This will simplify the installation scheme. If the lathing is planned for metal siding, then you can choose a galvanized profile 28x27 mm.

Sometimes builders create a combined version of the crate. A crate of wood is created around the perimeter of the whole house, and a frame made of a metal profile is built for the basement floor in order to maximally protect the structure from moisture, because it will be elevated near the ground.

Since we are considering a scheme for fastening a wooden lining, we will also use wood as a material for the construction of the lathing.

Step 1. We horizontally mount a wooden beam

If the lathing is created on a wooden house, then it is necessary to create a sliding structure (we use corners with vertical holes).

The distance between the bars should be 40 cm. If you decide to lay mineral wool slabs for insulation, then focus on the width of the slab, decreasing or increasing the fastening step. We fasten the crate to the U-shaped suspensions in order to achieve the most even surface.

Step 2. We carry out work on thermal insulation

We take the insulation and put it between the wall of the house and the created wooden structure.

Step 3. Create a wind and hydro barrier

To do this, we take a special protective film and fix it with a construction stapler over the lattice. Apply the film with an overlap of 10-15 cm in order to avoid damage to heat and waterproofing.

Prices for material for vapor barrier

Vapor barrier material

Step 4. We mount the counter grill

This is necessary to ensure proper ventilation. We now mount the counter lattice vertically, with a step of 40 cm. On the existing lathing, we fasten a wooden lath with 50x10 mm nails. All this is done in the vertical direction, since the cladding is assumed to be horizontal.

Construction of a single-layer lathing

If the house is not supposed to be insulated, then you can limit yourself to the installation of a single-layer lathing.

Step 1. We check the wooden beams with the level and build a vertical structure from them. To do this, we fix the bars with U-shaped suspensions at the corners of the house with a distance between the fasteners of 50 cm.Check their verticality with the level.

Now we take 3 cords (the length is equal to the length of the wall) and connect these bars with three laces (upper, middle and lower). This will further facilitate the removal of a flat plane. You can use a rule for these purposes. This tool makes it easy to align the cords evenly on the plane.

Step 2. After we pulled the laces, we begin to build the rest of the lathing in a vertical position with a step of 40-50 cm. In this case, the laces will be beacons for setting the plane. The slats should not protrude beyond the lace and change its tension.

Step 3. After the whole structure is built and checked by the level, we remove the laces and proceed directly to facing the facade with clapboard.

Horizontal installation of wooden lining

This type of attachment involves movement from top to bottom. This will protect the sheathing material from moisture and dirt. We use clamps (metal staples) for fastening to ensure the reliability of the cladding and an aesthetic appearance. In addition, it greatly simplifies and accelerates the process of finishing.

Wooden siding installation scheme, insulated facade

Step 1. We take the first lath of the lining and nail it with nails to the upper beam of the sheathing under the roof. To avoid cracking the board, drive the nail at a 45 degree angle. You can pre-wet the nail to reduce the chance of damaging the board. For the installation is best to use finishing nails 50 mm in length.

Step 2. Now insert the clasp into the bottom groove of the first board and nail it in with 20 mm nails. This is to ensure that the top board does not start to "play" during subsequent editing.

Step 3. We take the next board of the lining, insert it into the groove of the first board and fix it from below again with a kleimer along the lathing bars. The kleimer must be fastened with 20 mm nails using a hammer, but in order to facilitate the process and protect your hands, use a "spacer". To do this, take a 100 mm nail, turn it upside down and press the head against the 20 mm nail head.

Step 4. The last board is cut to size and inserted into the groove of the previous board. But there is a small nuance here. If you cut the board exactly to the size of the remaining gap, then we will not be able to bring it into the groove of the previous lining. Therefore, it must be cut 1.5 cm shorter. This will allow you to easily insert it into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees, press it against the lathing and press it with a pry bar from the bottom up until it is fully fixed.

Step 5. Now nail the panel with a 50mm nail (as with the first board) to the batten at the bottom of the last board.

Step 6. The final touch is the installation of a plinth skirt, which will close the abutment gap. We fasten the base skirt with 50 mm nails or galvanized screws with a 30 mm long press washer.

Step 7. Cover the external corner joints with decorative corners using 50 mm nails. To hide the presence of fasteners as much as possible, a little trick can be used. To do this, we do not hammer in the nail completely, bite off the cap with pliers and drive it in with a cloth flush with the corner. The fastener pitch must be at least 50 cm on both sides of the corner.

We make vertical cladding: step by step instructions

The main difference between this laying is that the lathing is performed in a horizontal position, and the lining will be sewn in vertically.

Important! When choosing the material and type of installation, consider the size of the wall. With vertical cladding, the length of the lining must be taken into account so that there is no horizontal seam along the entire perimeter of the building. It is necessary to clad the walls with an offset in a staggered manner, or install a panel strip.

Vertical cladding with plastic clapboard: step by step instructions

You will need the following materials:

• dowels 6x80 mm;
• stapling staples;
• plastic lining;
• base skirt;
• decorative plastic corners (external, internal or universal);
• bars for the construction of the lathing (50x50 mm);
• self-tapping screws;
• glue for plastic;
• U-shaped suspensions.

Step 1. We mount the crate of the building. If insulation is planned, we make a double crate (see above). If the house does not need an additional thermal insulation layer, we restrict ourselves to a single-layer crate.

Step 2. We take a plastic lining and fasten the outer part with self-tapping screws to the crate. Do not forget that the plastic panels are laid strictly perpendicular to the crate. We cut off the plastic panel according to the necessary measurements with a hacksaw.

Step 3. We fix the inner part of the lining with a construction stapler to the frame beams. Check at all times that the entire surface of the panel has entered the lock to exclude further wall deformation and violation of integrity.

Step 4. We insert the next board into the mountings and fix it with a stapler to the crate with a step of 40 cm.

Step 5. The finish panel is secured with a screw with a press washer. After that, you should apply a decorative corner and fix it with glue.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

At the end of the article, we suggest that you carefully read the video instructions on how to properly install the lining to the facade of the building.

Video - Sheathing of a frame house with clapboard, using the example of one wall

Video - Installation of overlap siding on a wooden frame

November 2, 2016
Specialization: facade decoration, interior decoration, construction of summer cottages, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. He also has experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Lining is by far one of the most demanded finishing materials for country houses. Therefore, home craftsmen often ask me about certain nuances of its installation. To help those who are engaged in finishing suburban housing or are just planning it, in this article I decided to talk in detail about how to properly decorate the clapboard inside the house with my own hands.

The choice of lining

First of all, we will consider which lining is better for interior decoration of the house, since the question of choice is the first thing you will have to face before finishing the room.

The main parameters that distinguish this finishing material are as follows:

• wood species;
• quality;
• profile.

As for the type of wood, the following types of lining are most often used for interior decoration:

• made of cedar - this lining is durable due to its high density and an abundance of resin in the structure. In addition, it has a number of other advantages:
  • has a sedative effect on the nervous system;
  • has antiseptic properties, which also has a beneficial effect on the health of those living in the house;
  • has an attractive appearance;
  • mosquitoes are afraid of the smell of cedar.

The disadvantages of this material include only the high cost, so not everyone can afford to use cedar lining;

• from linden - has an attractive uniform color and pleasant. Often, such a lining is used for covering a bath, since it practically does not contain resin.
  The disadvantages include a porous loose structure and susceptibility to decay, therefore linden must be treated with protective impregnations;

• from pine - is the most popular due to its low cost, attractive appearance (it has a beautiful, pronounced pattern) and resistance to decay. Disadvantages include the ability to release resin. Moreover, this phenomenon can be observed for some time even after thorough drying of the board;

• made of larch - it will be distinguished by its high strength, comparable to oak products. In addition, larch has another important quality - moisture resistance. This wood practically does not rot, therefore it is often used for exterior decoration.
  Of the shortcomings, only high cost can be distinguished;

• made of oak - this material belongs to the elite class, which is associated with the highest performance and attractive appearance. If you want to decorate a house once and for a lifetime, then oak lining is what you need. True, its cost, as it is not difficult to guess, is the highest.

Another important factor in choosing is the quality of the lining. According to this parameter, it is divided into several varieties:

I must say that there is still a third grade, however, it is not suitable for finishing housing, therefore we will not consider it.

When choosing a material, pay attention to the profile of the lining, which can imitate a bar, log or even siding. True, the choice depends solely on the interior design that you want to get in the end, and personal preferences.

Below are the prices for some types of lining:

Based on the above information, everyone can decide for themselves which lining to choose for interior decoration.

Finishing technology

Interior decoration of a house with clapboard includes several stages:

Let's begin our acquaintance with this work in order.

Stage 1: preparation of materials

To decorate a country house with clapboard inside, in addition to the clapboard itself, you will need the following materials:

• wooden slats with a thickness of about 2 mm;
• cleats - special fasteners for lining.

If you also plan to insulate the walls from the inside, then you should prepare:

• insulation;
• vapor barrier film;
• bars for assembling the frame.

Thermal insulation of a house from the inside, for a number of reasons, should be considered as an extreme measure if it is not possible to carry out insulation from the outside or external insulation is not effective enough.

Before purchasing all the materials, you need to calculate the squaring of the surfaces that you are going to sheathe with clapboard. You can use the online calculator to calculate the materials.

Stage 2: preparing the walls

If the walls of the house are brick, block or concrete, then before finishing them, you must perform the following preparatory steps:

1. first, you should dismantle all the elements that may interfere with further work - these are shelves, hanging cabinets, a decorative element, etc.;
2. if there are areas with peeling plaster, tiles or other finishing material on the surface, they must be removed.

If you are preparing a wooden house for clapboarding, the work is done a little differently:

1. after dismantling the hinged elements, you need to treat the wooden walls with an antiseptic compound. The product should be applied according to the instructions on the package;
2. if there are gaps between the crowns, they must be insulated using tow, twine, polyurethane cords or other insulation.

That, in fact, is all the nuances of preparing the walls.

Stage 3: installation of the frame

In order to properly mine the lining inside the house, you need to correctly perform the installation. It is necessary to approach it especially responsibly if the house is to be insulated. In this case, the work is carried out as follows:

1. first of all, you need to make a ventilation gap. To do this, you need to attach slats to the walls. They need to be arranged horizontally in the form of belts with a step of about 50 cm;

1. then a vapor barrier film must be attached to the crate. At the same time, it is very important to position it tightly, moreover, the canvases should overlap each other by 10 cm. The joints can be glued with tape;
2. now you need to fix the frame racks. Metal corners can be used to fix them.
   During the installation process, the most important thing is to place the racks vertically and in the same plane. To do this, first, you should install the beams extreme from the corners at the same distance from the wall. Then between them you need to pull the threads and set intermediate racks along them.
   The distance between the beams should be a centimeter or two less than the width of the mats;

1. then insulation must be laid in the space between the racks;
2. then a vapor barrier film is attached to the frame according to the scheme described above;
3. at the end of the work, it is necessary to make a counter-lattice of slats about 2 cm thick. Keep in mind that the counter-lattice should be located perpendicular to the position of the lining.

In order for the ventilation gap to work, it is necessary to make air vents in the wall below and under the visor, i.e. small holes. They can be filled with mineral wool and closed with a mesh.

If the walls will not be insulated from the inside, it is enough just to fix the slats perpendicular to the lining. Keep in mind that the slats must also be in the same plane, otherwise the walls will turn out to be uneven.

As for the ceiling, the principle of mounting the frame is the same - wooden slats are attached to the slabs or floor beams, which are set in level. True, in some cases, the ceiling in a wooden house is intentionally made with open beams. In this case, the slats are installed in the space between the beams.

Stage 4: installation of lining

The instructions for installing the lining on the walls are quite simple. As an example, consider the process of installing the lining in a vertical position, since most often it is installed this way:

1. first of all, the boards must be cut to the height of the room;

1. now you can start sheathing the frame, starting from the corner. Align the board in a vertical position on a level, and attach it to the crate with self-tapping screws, screwing them from the side of the tenon. Pre-drill the holes to prevent the board from cracking.
   From the side of the groove, the lining is attached to the frame with the help of special fasteners of the cleats. They provide concealed installation. Cleamers are attached to the frame with small studs or self-tapping screws;

In the photo - the joining of the lining to each other

1. the second board must be docked with the first in the lock, and then secured in the same way from the side of the groove with clamps. According to this principle, the entire wall is sheathed;
2. the last board must be cut to the width from the side of the groove, and attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. The latter should be located closer to the corner;

1. after covering all the walls, decorative wooden corners are attached to the corners. You can fix them with nails with bitten off caps;
2. then you need to perform the slopes. To do this, fix the slats along the perimeter of the openings, and attach the lining to them according to the standard scheme.
   You can learn more about the installation of slopes from other articles on our portal dedicated to this topic;

1. at the end of the work, install wooden corners around the perimeter of the openings.

Now, according to the same scheme, ceiling cladding is performed with clapboard. The joints between the ceiling and the walls can be hidden with both wooden corners and special wooden ceiling plinths.

The decoration of the house with clapboard outside is done in the same way. As a rule, the facades of wooden houses are trimmed in this way.

Upon completion of the work, the lining should be treated with a protective impregnation or varnished. This will make the surface even more attractive, and will also protect the material from all kinds of negative influences.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to finish the interior of the house with wooden clapboard.

Output

Sheathing the house with clapboard from the inside is simple and quick. The most important thing is to properly prepare the surface and ensure an even surface of the frame. As for the fastening of the lining, this procedure is easiest to perform using cleats.

Do not confuse wood paneling with MDF veneered panels. These materials, with a similar appearance, differ both in their behavior during operation and in installation. Today we will focus specifically on solid wood lining, the features of its selection and installation on the walls of the house.

The choice of wood and lining format

The key indicator that determines the quality of a wooden lining is its class. There are four types of this finishing material:

1. Extra. Lining of this type does not have the slightest signs of defects, such as roll, pulling, knots, pitching, twigs and the like. Thus, the surface of the wood has not only visual uniformity, but also physical integrity.
2. Class A. The quality of such a lining is slightly lower than the previous class: small dense knots are present in a limited amount, there are inhomogeneities in the fiber pattern, the formation of a low density and a similar kind of defects. However, the wood has a solid structure.
3. Class B. At this level of quality of the lining, the manifestation of pronounced defects is allowed, excluding the physical homogeneity of the wood. Such defects include radial cracks, tar, fallen out knots, etc.
4. Class C. This group includes sawn timber that has not passed quality control to obtain a higher class.

You should also pay attention to the geometry of the profile of the lining shoulder straps. The generally accepted standard is considered to be a thickness of 12.5 mm with a width of 88 mm, excluding the protrusion of the spike. It is strongly recommended that when purchasing lining, arm yourself with a caliper and check the base dimensions. A deviation of more than 5% is a clear sign of poor quality products. It is also important that the profile of the lining is maintained along the entire length of the board, otherwise problems with alignment and joining of the locks are guaranteed.

The lining also differs in profile. In addition to the traditional shape with beveled chamfers, there are modifications "Softline" and "Calm" with rounded edges. Lining of the "Land House" and "Block House" type is also popular: the first has a complex milled profile, the second has the shape of a slab, that is, in fact, it imitates a rounded beam. There is only one criterion for choosing a profile shape and wood texture - aesthetic. We only note that hardwood lining is more preferable for use in wet rooms and with significant temperature changes.

Be sure to pay attention to the quality of processing. The presence of pile on the front surface is unacceptable for the lining: this is a clear sign that the wood was not properly dried before processing. Additionally, check if the lining has so-called plugs: sometimes, to improve the quality class, knots are cut and plugged with solid wood, which ultimately negatively affects the appearance.

Wall surface preparation

Before sheathing the walls with clapboard, you need to properly prepare the rough surfaces. Depending on the type of substrate, the preparation procedure may differ.

Wooden walls must be covered with bioprotective compounds and fire retardants that increase fire resistance. If we are talking about walls with the correct geometry and flatness, for example, frame walls, the lining can be attached directly to them without lathing. However, it is first necessary to seal the joints between sheet materials hermetically and carry out a rough peeling to remove the protruding chips. If, according to the calculation requirements for moisture accumulation of walls, a vapor barrier is required, it is installed at this stage. Also, a mandatory requirement when decorating walls with clapboard is to provide a ventilation gap, which in this case can be done due to a plastic nodal mesh.

Walls made of brick or concrete for lining are usually insulated using mineral wool or foil-coated isolon, facing the reflective surface inside the room. It is better to install the insulation by gluing it onto polyurethane foam with thorough sealing of all joints and abutments. After that, the subsystem is fastened through the thermal protection.

Internal partitions for finishing with clapboard must be sheathed with sheet materials. In addition to OSB, for these purposes, you can use LSU, GVL or a thin edged board. Sheathing of the frame of partitions is necessary to give them monolithic strength, improve sound insulation, as well as stabilize the behavior of inhomogeneous media. And, of course, ensuring the safety of the filler.

Fencing structures made of hygroscopic materials, such as gas silicate or foam concrete, require waterproofing before finishing with clapboard. This is due to the fact that due to its small thickness, the wood is highly susceptible to shrinkage and warping. Therefore, the influence of high humidity on such a finish should be excluded by all means, up to the installation of false walls with a ventilation gap.

Installation of lathing

The frame subsystem for clapboard cladding is made mainly of pine planks with a section of 20-25x40 mm. This is a fairly cheap material, besides, it is well suited for reliable fastening. Before this, the material must be dried in room conditions, ideally, the humidity should be about 12 ± 3%, that is, the same level of moisture accumulation as that of the lining.

The battens of the lathing should be perpendicular to the direction of laying the lining. As a rule, the wooden sheathing is directed vertically to avoid joining shoulder straps, that is, the subsystem is located horizontally. The installation pitch of the slats can be selected freely in the range of 40-60 cm, it depends mostly on the weight of the finishing material, the expected operating conditions, including mechanical influences. It is imperative that the lathing strips are mounted under all corner joints, this is necessary to fix the linings and baseboards not to the finishing material, but to the element of the subsystem.

The most important stage in the installation of the lathing is its alignment into a single plane and the deduction of the geometry of the room. The process should be preceded by the measurement of the room, during which the most significant deviations are noted. Further, one of the walls is taken as the base one, for this purpose it is better to choose the most even plane with the least number of openings. On the walls adjacent to the base, two vertical lines are marked, spaced from the rough plane by the thickness of the battens, plus a tolerance for the original curvature. By connecting the markings on the floor and ceiling with a dyeing cord, four lines of a closed contour are obtained, forming a single plane. The rest of the walls are marked in a similar way, but now using the "Egyptian" triangle to form right angles.

The alignment of the rails into a single plane is carried out along the mooring cord using wooden pads of different thicknesses or using pairs of plastic mounting wedges. The fixing of the lathing is carried out by means of through fasteners into the base material through the linings; for this purpose, both plastic dowels with a head for a sweep and hardened self-tapping screws can be used. We draw your attention to the fact that the system of galvanized profiles for the installation of lining is not suitable: both from the point of view of uniformity of behavior, and from the point of view of acceptable ways of fixing the finish.

Wall cladding

The set and fastening to the lathing of the finishing material is carried out by analogy with plastic and MDF panels. The first board is fastened through from the abutment side, the fasteners are subsequently covered with a plinth. On the reverse side, the fasteners are made obliquely into the groove, which is true for all intermediate boards. The last shoulder strap is also attached at both edges.

Fastening the lining to the lathing can be done in two ways. For amateur hands, the most suitable fasteners will be self-tapping screws with a threaded body thickness of not more than 2.5 mm, a loose neck about 10 mm long and a 4.5 mm diameter head. This method eliminates damage to the front surface of the finish when finishing nails, and is also considered faster. The pre-thin body of the lining groove can be drilled along the step of the frame.

In the presence of a stud or nail gun, installation can be carried out on a drive-in fastener. This solution is best suited for professional decorators. It is recommended to choose 18 gauge studs with a length of about 30-35 mm with a narrow head. First, you need to adjust the energy of the shot: the caps should be quenched into the groove body no more than 1 mm. You can also use brushed pins without caps in the format of a straight or inclined clip: the lacquer holding the pins melts when the fasteners pass through the wood and acts as an adhesive.

When fixing the lining, it is extremely important to leave expansion gaps of 8-10 mm from the adjacent walls and between the abutting shoulder straps of the order of 1-1.5 mm. To prevent insect migration, the gaps in the junctions must be sealed with a plastic filler, such as a liquid cork, silicone or acrylic sealant. It is important that at the straight joints of the lining, both edges are fastened to the lathing, therefore, along the connection line, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a wide strip - about 60-70 mm.

Finishing

In most cases, the processing of the lining is carried out after installation. The exceptions are walls that are in conditions of high humidity or sudden temperature changes. In these cases, the wood is pre-stabilized, for example, impregnated with hot drying oil. In all other cases, processing of the back surface is not required, this is an unreasonable consumption of materials and efforts.

After fixing, the processing of the lining consists in additional fine grinding of problem areas and the elimination of dents that appeared during fastening, using a putty to match the main coating. It is imperative to perform fire and biological protection of wood with a colorless composition. Also, an original solution would be to bake the lining with subsequent brushing, but this type of processing should be combined with the general style solution.

As a finishing protective and decorative coating, you can use a wide range of paintwork materials, up to oil impregnation. The choice of finishing method is always made on an individual basis, based on personal aesthetic considerations. For long-term operation in humid environments, it is recommended to cover it with polyurethane varnish or natural drying oil with a high wax content.

The demand for finishing material generates the most sophisticated offer. Such material in the classical sense was and remains molded wood.

Natural natural material has again become popular with private developers, as it is versatile and intended for both exterior and interior decoration of the house. In most cases, this is the so-called "lining" board.

The specificity of its application is due to the special design and the decoration of the house with clapboard, in its appearance, is in no way inferior to siding, professional sheet, etc.

So, unlike similar material, such as folding, it has a groove and a ridge, as well as a different profile of the face.

Thanks to its design, it not only has a great view, but also reliably protects the building from being blown out from the outside. In terms of the cleanliness of the indoor climate of the room, there are no materials equal to it at all.

Types of clapboard cladding

Traditionally, it is customary to distinguish between two types of work: external and internal. For the purpose of interior decoration, it is very common to find proposals from manufacturers of forcing of the euro standard. This, of course, does not mean that it was produced in Europe.

It's just that recently, about two decades ago, our wood processors switched from the old Soviet standard to European standards. According to them, in the production of such a distillation, only fractions of millimeters of deviation from the initial dimensions are allowed, along the section and during operation.

Wall cladding with clapboard can be performed both vertically and horizontally... In both cases, a frame with guides is required. Wooden bars of various sections can be used as guides, but as practice shows, it is best to use a section of 30 x 60 mm.

The guides themselves, depending on the technical requirements, are attached to the walls using pads or iron hangers for profiles under the gypsum board. For fastening the lining to the guides, any thin nails (hardware) or clamps are used.

Now that the basic concepts of lining are known, you can proceed to the features of sheathing walls inside and outside the building. By the way, it is customary to sheathe not only baths with clapboard, but also residential buildings, change houses, balconies, etc.

Clapboard decoration of building facades

For the purpose of outdoor decoration, you can use forcing of the second or first and highest grade (C, B and, respectively, A). If you plan to paint with a colorless varnish, then it is better to stop at the first or the highest, since there are no knots falling out in them.

As in the case with other molded materials, the cladding of the house with wooden clapboard from the outside is carried out in three stages:

• Markup
• Installation of guides
• Clapboard lining

Often, beginners try to make sure how to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard. Most often, the vertical position of the board is used, as it visually lengthens the walls and the building looks taller. But at the same time, nothing can prevent you from using a different location option.

It used to be fashionable to sew with herringbone clapboard. This allows you to significantly save on material and use any cut of forcing with a length of 50 to 100 cm.

For a vertical arrangement, it is better to select a distillation with a width of more than 80 mm, so after processing with a paint and varnish material, it will seem to "frequent".

This type of work has its own characteristics, which are useful for any novice builder to decorate. These are the rules for stitching, since a building usually contains, in addition to doors and windows, various kinds of ledges and niches. It is necessary to take into account their protrusion from the wall, and it is better to remove the cash-cases from the doors and windows before cladding.

At the first stage, by level or using a plumb line, corner posts-guides are installed on all sides of the building, so that there are two posts for each corner. Here it is better to use the lining of their bar or board, since it will be problematic to fix the suspensions at the corner of the walls. After aligning the vertical, fix the posts with nails or long (100-150 mm) self-tapping screws.

Vertical and horizontal bars are also placed near door and window openings. To ensure that the stitching is flat, pull the upholstery cord over the top and bottom of each side of the building. After installing all the necessary vertical bars, you can begin to set the guides themselves in increments of 50 - 70 cm, depending on the height of the sheathing.

For fixing the lining, you can use the method of external or internal installation. The first implies hidden fasteners using cleats or a thin nail hammered into the groove of the lining. The second is directly through the boards, that is, when, like a nail, the screw is screwed into the lining directly. In this case, make sure your screws line up.

Wall cladding by the forces of a hired company can be expensive and can fluctuate in the price range from 350 to 500 rubles per m2, depending on the complexity of the sewing and the presence of an insulating layer.

Internal wall cladding

As in the previous example, rails and stands are required. The lining is fastened in a hidden way on clamps or thin hardware. Interior wall decoration with clapboard is carried out from a board of the highest or first grade.

This type of work differs from the external cladding of the, that almost always, before sheathing, the room in which the work is carried out is subject to hydro and thermal insulation of the walls. For this purpose, foil and any insulation (roll or briquette type) are usually used, depending on the required frost penetration thickness.

A typical living room in a private house may have sloping walls. In this case, it is necessary to mount the frame taking into account the correct or sevenfold slope of the walls. For an indoor frame, a 30 x 50 mm bar is perfect.

The installation of the racks begins with marking for the corner posts using a laser or conventional rack level. Do not abuse the thickness of the walls from the lining, as the area of ​​the room may subsequently decrease significantly. In addition to the racks, it is necessary to immediately fix the horizontal ties. The resulting contour can be used as a guide to fill it with the desired guide frequency.

The only significant feature of the interior cladding can be considered the use in a specific type of building. So, if we are dealing with a log house, the vertical racks-guides should not be brought to the floor and ceiling by 2 - 2.5 cm. This is done so that your wall does not "swell" later. All finishing elements of a wooden house, and even the walls themselves, are subject to constant deformation (subsidence or rise), depending on the humidity in the room and outside.

The price for work on cladding indoors can reach 600-1000 rubles from the degree of complexity of the frame.

Of course, entrusting the wall sewing to professionals is more convenient and practical, but what if there is no free money? It is not difficult to sheathe a house with clapboard with your own hands, and as you could see, it is not more expensive than siding.

Here is a short, but rather detailed video, by watching which you can apply your knowledge:

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Your summer cottage or house will be transformed and will have a better effect on air purity and health.