Do-it-yourself warming of a log house inside. Do-it-yourself insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside

With the independent construction of a wooden house, many are wondering how to insulate the house from the inside. This stage is very important, since it depends on how well your home will be protected. Properly selected material and compliance with thermal insulation technology will be important here.

With thermal insulation of a building, the process of warming all internal surfaces from floor to ceiling is implied.

If electrical wiring runs along the walls, it must be checked that it is in working order and properly insulated. Before the direct installation of the insulation material, you need to create a kind of barrier to protect the insulation from moisture that will form on the wooden walls. Also, here we must not forget about high-quality ventilation, without which, when creating a vapor barrier, a thermos effect is formed and the walls will rot.

The note: As a vapor barrier, you can use a special membrane film. It does its job very well, but it's not cheap.

Internal ceiling insulation

Insulation of the house should start from the ceiling, because warm air always rises and if there is no insulation, part of it comes out through the roof. If the house is one-story with an attic, work begins with the spreading of waterproofing material on the floor from the attic. As a heater, mineral wool or sawdust can be used, which should be distributed around the entire perimeter of the waterproofing. The thickness of the insulation can be 150-250 mm. Boards are laid out on top so that you can move freely around the attic.

Important: If the house has an attic, then insulation is carried out, in addition to the interfloor overlap, and the roof slope. For wooden floors, bulk materials are poured between the lags, and for concrete floors, slabs or rolled material are laid.

The slope is first insulated with a waterproofing film, on top of which a heater is placed, and an impermeable membrane on top. Everything ends.

The note: Mineral wool can be used for ceiling insulation, and parchment can be used as a waterproofing layer.

In order to insulate the ceiling from the inside, a wooden frame is first made, in which the distance between the boards should be up to one meter. Parchment is glued between the boards with tile glue. An insulating material is placed on top of it, to fix which you can also use a small amount of glue. Next, the ceiling is sheathed with plasterboard. It is screwed onto a wooden frame with a screwdriver.

Important: Ceiling insulationshould be carried out after construction no earlier than a year and only in the warm period.

Internal wall insulation

First, proceed to the arrangement of the waterproofing barrier. Then a vertical crate is installed. It is made from a bar with a section of 5 * 5 in increments of thirty centimeters.

The note: The beam in front of the crate is treated with a special antifungal agent.

Before laying mineral wool on the crate, it is cut into strips of the desired length and width, twenty millimeters greater than the distance between the bars. Each strip is neatly laid and firmly fixed with anchor bolts. From above, the film is overlapped up to ten centimeters with a construction stapler.

The note: Walls can only be insulated with foam plastic of a smaller thickness than with external insulation.

For sheathing the heat-insulating layer, a crate is also arranged with 3 * 4 cm bars. The walls can be sheathed with wooden clapboard. Ecowool, glass wool and expanded polystyrene can also be used for thermal insulation of walls.

The process of wall insulation can be divided into stages:

Cleaning the surface from dust and dirt;
Sealing cracks with foam, linen felt or tow;
Processing of a bar for a crate;
The device of the lathing from a bar;
Mark out where the extreme elements will be installed, since the evenness of the entire structure will depend on the device of the first bar;
Fixing bars on screws and dowels in increments of 25 to 30 cm;
One meter is measured from the initial bar and is attached parallel to the first second. And so around the perimeter;

On a note: At the locations of the windows, the bars are upholstered in a circle around the window opening.

A heater is laid between the crate;
Then, a vapor barrier is made on top of the insulation using a film or polyethylene.
Sheathing walls using drywall, which is screwed to the beams of the crate.

Floor insulation device

Underfloor heating helps create warmth and comfort in your home. Here, it is very important to comply with the technology of installation work of the floor covering on the ground. First, pouring is done, then waterproofing is installed, and then insulation material.

If the floors are wooden, thermal insulation is laid between the lags with a layer of one hundred to one hundred and fifty millimeters. Then rough or finishing floors are equipped. And if it is necessary to insulate concrete floors, then this can be done using the raised floor method. For the device of the raised floor, they first begin to level the surface and eliminate defects. A waterproofing membrane is spread on the concrete surface, logs are laid with a step between the bars of up to fifty centimeters.

Important: The extreme lag to the wall should not be located closer than thirty centimeters.

With the help of bars, the floor is divided into straight lines. The voids are filled with insulation, on top of which a membrane is placed and flooring is made.

Often a log house is insulated with a warm floor system.

Features of insulation materials

Mineral wool is considered a very effective and inexpensive insulation material.

It has the following advantages:

Good sound and heat insulation;
durability;
has a low density;
not capable of deformation;
affordability;
it comes in the form of flexible mats or solid slabs;

Competitive wate material is practical and easy to use expanded polystyrene.

With its help, you can reduce heat loss even when gaps are not sealed;
The small thickness of this material is quite enough to protect the house from the winter cold;
a wooden house with such insulation warms up much faster;
easy installation;
excellent .

Another suitable material for internal insulation is ecowool. The material is breathable and not blown, with its help all the voids in the wall are filled. Prevents the ingress of moisture and prevents the spread of mold and fungal formations.

When choosing glass wool for insulation, high-quality thermal insulation of the room will be necessary, since this material is able to pass moisture, which worsens the thermal insulation properties.

Mistakes when insulating a log house with your own hands

Some believe the myth that the more insulation you put inside a building, the better. However, if there is a very thick layer of insulation, the dew point can move into the material itself, and if it is with a cotton base, its thermal insulation characteristics can be wetted. As a result, your insulation simply will not last long.

Another mistake is the desire of some owners to insulate the house on both sides, which damages the very wall of the building. The point here is that the vapor barrier feature of the insulation simply will not allow the walls to dry out, which will provoke the spread of mold and fungus.

Insulating a wooden house from the inside should be done only in extreme cases, it is better to do it from the outside;
Any insulation, whether internal or external, must be done during the warm period;
If the facade of the building is clad, then before internal insulation it is necessary to make sure that there are air gaps between the wall and the cladding so that the wall can dry out;
It is necessary to process all wooden surfaces before installing the insulation material. After insulation, a microclimate is formed in the walls, which is not entirely favorable for wood and unnecessary processing will not harm;
As an internal insulation, it is better not to use materials such as foam. Many are bought for its inexpensive cost and good thermal insulation characteristics, but it is completely unsuitable for interior decoration.

If you decide to insulate a log house from the inside, then you need to do it completely, i.e. walls, floor and ceiling. If you insulate only the ceiling, then the heat will somehow escape through microcracks in the walls or floor. Now there is a huge selection of various insulating materials and tools, thanks to which everyone can insulate their home even without the help of professionals.

Many do not consider heat loss through the roof and ceiling significant. In fact, there are often gaps through which the log house simply heats the street. Also, the surface of the roof can heat up from poor thermal insulation of the ceiling. By getting rid of these losses, you can save up to 60% of heating costs.

Before you begin to insulate the upper part of the wooden house, you should seal the entire seam of the upper beam of the wall and the roof structure.

If the attic in the house is non-residential, it is very simple to insulate the ceiling with your own hands. To do this, a layer of thermal insulation of about forty centimeters is laid there. You need to understand that the insulation for the ceiling should be light. Typically, sawdust, polystyrene, mineral wool and other lightweight materials are used for this purpose.

If the ceiling is a roof vault, insulation is a little more difficult. To begin with, the entire surface of the roof from the inside must be covered with a layer of waterproofing so that moisture does not get on the insulation. Roof insulation is done in two ways:

Sheet insulation is laid tightly to each other. In this case, special attention should be paid to the absence of gaps between the sheets, because between them the heat will still go out.
Sheet insulation is laid from top to bottom with an overlap. This is done for additional protection against moisture, it will simply drain over the sheets of thermal insulation.

After that, it remains to ennoble the surface with decorative trim. For this purpose, lining is perfect.

Materials for warming a log house

For wood, it is better to use natural heaters - in the attic you can lay expanded clay or sawdust mixed with earth. Log cabin caulking is produced with moss or jute - a flax-based insulation. It is undesirable to use tow, because the material quickly absorbs moisture. Expanded clay can be used to fill the floor or basement, you can make a warm floor by laying extruded polystyrene foam plates.

Izover specifications

If standard procedures are still not enough and the house is cool, then you can not do without additional insulation of the walls of a log house. The heat-insulating material must be vapor-permeable (quickly give off excess moisture that it has absorbed from warm air). If the building is insulated from the outside, then the material must be moisture resistant, environmentally friendly and fireproof.

Materials and tools for insulation

Like any finish, insulation work can be carried out with suitable materials and certain tools. Basically, the tool kit will be identical for all types of insulation.

The choice of materials for insulation

Mineral wool

To insulate walls (including wooden ones), the construction market offers a sufficient selection of materials for both external and internal work. If you wish, you can study the technical characteristics of each of them in online stores. Here is only a brief description of the main insulation used for walls:

Mineral wool. It is produced in the form of rolls or panels, while one of the sides can have a foil coating. Melts of blast-furnace slag, basalt or glass are used as minerals.
Polyfoam (expanded polystyrene, PSB-S). The material has a 15th, 25th or 35th density and the higher it is, the lower the thermal conductivity, and the panels crumble less when cutting.
Extruded polystyrene foam (aka penoplex, technoplex, technonikol). For insulation use sheets from 20 to 200 mm thick. Their width, as a rule, is standard - 600 × 1200 mm.
Cement particle boards (DSP). Standard parameters are 3200 or 3600 mm long and 1200 or 1250 mm wide. Thickness varies from 8 to 36 mm.
Boards, bars or galvanized profile for lathing.
Self-tapping screws with washers.

It is important! From mineral wool for external insulation, materials are used only from melts of basalt (stone wool) or glass (glass wool). It is undesirable to use slag wool, since blast-furnace slag melts contain particles of iron, which is susceptible to corrosion from moist air

This leads to the loss of thermal insulation qualities.

Tool set

construction knife

The most commonly used tools are:

construction (painting) knife;
hacksaw for wood or drywall;
metric tape measure;
screwdriver.

Dew point - what does it mean for insulation

Dew point patterns

In accordance with the rules adopted by SP 50.13330.2012, paragraph B.24, the dew point in construction work is the temperature at which moisture (steam), even in dry air, is transformed into water condensate. When insulating buildings, this parameter is necessarily taken into account by builders, but in order not to indulge in calculations using formulas, you can simply consider how this is affected by the installation of insulation on the outside and inside of the building.

If the wall of a frame, log or timber house is not thick enough, then due to the temperature difference between the street and the room, condensation forms on the inside. When the house is insulated from the inside, condensation can occur between the insulation and the load-bearing wall, which will lead to the formation of fungal mold. To avoid this, the insulation must be powerful enough - the dew point will shift to it and condensation will not occur. That is, in this case, the insulation will protect the wall from exposure to the warm air of the room.

But only external insulation can solve several problems at the same time. Firstly, the wall will be protected from the cold outside, therefore, the thermal insulation efficiency will be maximum. Secondly, the formation of condensate in such cases does not threaten at all. The only problem is that in houses built from logs or glued beams, hardly anyone wants to cover an attractive facade with insulation, so here you have to use the internal option.

Preparation is an important step

The components of success are the right choice of material and thorough adherence to technology.

Caulking the log house and treating the walls with an antiseptic;
Installation of the crate with a step equal to the width of the insulation;
Laying thermal insulation on the facade between the guides;
Installation of a windproof film over the entire structure;
Stuffing the crate for the ventilation gap and installation of siding.

Insulation of the facade of the house with mineral wool for siding

The windproof film and vapor barrier will protect the insulation from getting wet, but will freely pass moisture from the thermal insulation layer to the outside. For better ventilation between the vapor barrier and the outer skin of the facade, a ventilation gap of 20-30 mm should be left. Vents should be arranged at the bottom and at the top so that air flows from below under the skin and takes away excess moisture from the surface of the film.

How to insulate a house from a log from the inside

This option should only be used in extreme cases. Builders are against the fact that the insulation is mounted from the inside of the room. When insulating walls from the inside, you may encounter the problem of condensation and mold between the wall and the thermal insulation layer. Inside the house there will be more than enough standard measures to insulate the floor on the ground floor, the attic floor and the slopes of the windows.

Floor insulation in a log house

To make the floor on the first floor warm, it is necessary to lay basalt insulation between the lags or pour expanded clay. A draft floor of boards is laid on the logs, on which linoleum or laminate is laid. If this is not enough, then the insulation of the strip foundation and the blind area of the house should be done. It will not be superfluous to make independent insulation of the basement of the house with foam plastic or thermal panels.

Spraying ecowool on the walls and blowing the floor

Attic insulation in a log house

If you decide not to equip the attic, but simply insulate the attic floor, then first you should lay a waterproofing film, and lay the insulation on top with a layer of at least 250 mm. If an attic is equipped in a private house, then you need to insulate the roof with mineral wool with your own hands. The ceiling between floors should also be insulated with mineral wool to improve the sound insulation of rooms and premises.

Insulation of walls inside the house from a log house

It is not worth laying insulation on the walls of the house from the side of a warm room, it is better to caulk the gaps between the logs well and. To finish log walls, you can use clapboard or drywall, while the room will become much warmer by creating an air gap between the wall and the sheathing, as well as by increasing the thickness of the outer wall.

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house

First, the walls of the house need to be caulked. For this, a special tool is used - a caulk. If it is not available, a hard spatula or a wide screwdriver is used. Tow, hemp, felt or jute rope are used as insulation. It is not difficult to do it with your own hands, the main thing is to correctly follow the sequence of actions.

You need to start caulking from the bottom seam around the entire perimeter of the house, only then move on to the next one.

The insulation must be driven into the cracks of the timber as densely and deeply as possible. You need to understand that after finishing work, the ceiling height will increase by several centimeters. Therefore, if you caulk each part of the house separately, one of the walls may collapse - the timber will simply pop out of the groove. Another way is to apply acrylic or silicone sealant to the joint of the timber.

If you are not satisfied with the result achieved, experts advise to additionally insulate the walls with thermal insulation. To do this, a guide beam is vertically attached to the wall, its height must be equal to the thickness of the insulating material. The entire surface is covered with a layer of waterproofing. Insulation is laid tightly between the guides, without gaps. For this purpose, any sheet material is suitable. After that, it remains only to make decorative wall cladding.

A few words about the choice of insulation

First of all, home craftsmen are interested in how to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, as well as the floor and ceiling. The choice of insulation for a wooden house requires a special approach, because one of the main advantages of such housing is vapor permeability and environmental friendliness. Accordingly, it is desirable to preserve these qualities.

Wood is known to be a combustible material. Therefore, it is desirable that the insulation be fireproof.

Given these points, you can use the following materials for home insulation:

mineral wool;
ecowool.

Mineral wool

mineral wool

Mineral wool is the most common insulation.

It is excellent for thermal insulation of wooden housing due to the following properties:

good thermal insulation properties - 0.032 - 0.048 W/mK;
environmental friendliness;
good vapor permeability;
fire safety - mineral wool not only does not burn, but also resists the spread of fire;
Sold in the form of mats and rolls, making it convenient to work with mineral wool.

It should be noted that only basalt wool is environmentally friendly. In addition, it is the most thermally stable. Therefore, use it to insulate a wooden house.

Basalt wool Technikol

True, the price of basalt wool is slightly higher than stone wool and glass wool:

brand	Cost per 1m3
Isoroc Isoruf-V	3990
TECHNOFAS L	3500
Ecover Light	1950
TECHNOFLOR	4800

Another disadvantage of basalt wool is that it causes irritation on the skin, although to a lesser extent than, for example, glass wool. But, in any case, when working with it, it is desirable to protect the eyes and respiratory organs.

In general, in my opinion, basalt wool is the most optimal insulation for wooden walls.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam is a type of regular polystyrene foam.

Thanks to a special manufacturing technology, it has higher characteristics than expanded polystyrene:

high strength - 0.2-0.5 MPa versus 0.07 MPa for foam;
thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.028-0.034 W / mK;
during the manufacturing process, manufacturers add flame retardants to extruded polystyrene foam, due to which the material corresponds to the flammability class G1 (low combustible material). True, this applies only to insulation from well-known manufacturers;
resistant to moisture, therefore, during installation does not require hydro-vapor barrier;
does not irritate the skin.

Penoplex differs from polystyrene in a more homogeneous structure

However, penoplex has some disadvantages:

vapor permeability is very low, so it is better not to use penoplex to insulate the walls of the house. At the same time, it will be a good solution for thermal insulation of the floor, as it is not afraid of moisture;
high cost - penoplex is today one of the most expensive heat-insulating materials.

Below is the cost for some common grades of extruded polystyrene foam:

Ecowool is a modern eco-friendly material

Ecowool

Ecowool is a relatively new thermal insulation material that has become increasingly popular in recent years.

Its merits include the following points:

environmental friendliness - the material is made on the basis of wood fibers;
vapor permeability;
thanks to special additives that are present in ecowool, the insulation is fireproof and resistant to biological influences;
has a low thermal conductivity of 0.031-0.040 W / m * K;
low cost - from 1200 rubles. per cube

Ecowool can be used to insulate horizontal surfaces

I must say that for the insulation of walls with ecowool, special equipment is required. Therefore, when working independently, it is possible to perform only floor or ceiling insulation with this material.

Here, and all the most common heaters that are used to insulate wooden houses. True, there are still materials that are applied in the form of foam, for example, polyurethane foam. However, they will not be able to perform insulation on their own, so we will not consider them.

Manufacturers Overview

When choosing a heater for a wooden house, it is worth giving preference to well-known, well-established brands.

The leading position among manufacturers is occupied by the company rockwool(Danish brand, which is also produced in 4 cities in Russia). The range is amazingly varied. Each section of the house has its own line of products. So, for walls, mineral wool insulation "Butts Light" and "Scandic" will be optimal. There are innovative mats for walls of different stiffness within the same mat, roll and slab analogues. The disadvantage is the high cost (on average 1500 - 6500 rubles / m2).

Not inferior in quality and products from Germany - tile and rolled mineral wool brands Knauf and Ursa. To insulate the room from the inside, it is enough to select materials with a density of 10-25 kg / m3. The price is within 1200 - 3000 rubles / m2.

Leading positions are also occupied by French mineral wool insulation in slabs, mats and rolls from the brand Isover. In the collections you can find both lightweight products (density 10-20 kg/m3) and rigid mats for frame houses (density 150-190 kg/m3). The cost is quite high - from 2000 to 4000 rubles / m2.

Mineral wool produced in Russia, for the most part, is not inferior to Western counterparts in terms of thermal efficiency, vapor permeability and fire resistance. However, it has a more affordable price. User reviews allow you to mark companies such as TechnoNikol, Izovol.

All the manufacturers mentioned above produce a type of thermal insulation wool with improved sound insulation performance.

Among the best manufacturers of ecowool, it is worth noting the firms Isofloc (Germany), Ekovilla and Termex (Finland), as well as domestic companies Equator, Ecowool Extra and Nanovata.

Finnish interventional insulation "Polyterm" is rightfully considered one of the most optimal for operation in domestic conditions. In addition to improved thermal insulation qualities, it is distinguished by the presence of special figured elements for decorating joints, corners, and transitions in the house.

A similar interventional thermal insulation material based on polyester is produced by the Russian brand "Avaterm". According to the manufacturer, due to the highest performance characteristics, the material is able to serve up to 100 years. Popular sealant brands are Weatherall and Neomid - Warm Seam.

How to calculate the thickness of thermal insulation

Warming with mineral wool

To determine the thickness of the insulation, you need to determine the total thermal resistance (R). This is a constant value, which is determined by the climatic conditions of a particular region. Let's take conditional values for this (they are more suitable for the southern regions), but to determine this indicator, you need to find out the norms for your place of residence:

for the floor - 3.5 (m2 * K * W);
for the ceiling - 6 (m2 * K * W):
for walls - 4.6 (m2 * K * W). / li>

To calculate the multilayer thermal insulation of the floor of the walls and ceiling, it is necessary to sum up the thermal resistance of all layers according to the principle Rtotal=R1+R2+R3.

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated by the formula R=p/k. In this case:

p is the layer thickness;
k is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material used.

To determine the value of k (coefficient), use the table below.<

For example, let's make a test calculation for a wall. Let's say we need to get a thermal resistance of at least 4.6 (m2 * K * W). A house made of oak timber with a section of 0.2 × 0.2 m, where the coefficient is 0.2 (W / m * k). We use the formula: R (k) \u003d 0.2 / 0.2 \u003d 1 (m2 * K * W).

It remains to achieve a total R value of 4.6 (m2 * K * W). So, R insulation \u003d R-R timber \u003d 4.6-1 \u003d 3.8 (m2 * K * W).

Now, according to the basic formula, we calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation (we take the foam plastic for this): or mount them inside and outside.

Warming the bath from the inside

Today it is not often possible to find bathhouses cut down from good logs. In such a bath, you can perfectly take a steam bath even in severe frost, it is enough to insulate it with traditional natural materials - moss, felt, flax, hemp. But since builders are now increasingly using modern building materials, it is necessary to recall some of them.

In this case, special attention should be paid to how the bath is finished from the inside. Many nuances are important here, including the difference in the microclimate in different rooms of the bath (steam room, dressing room, relaxation room), as well as the use of environmentally friendly materials

Since the bath, for which thick and high-quality logs served as building materials, does not particularly need additional insulation, thermal insulation has to be resorted to only in those cases when the specified structure is built from relatively small bars. In this case, a crate is made with the installation of a heater on it - mineral wool. Foil is laid on top of it, then the resulting cake is sheathed with clapboard.

With all these rules and features, almost anyone can really insulate their home. As follows from theory and practice, this is not at all difficult.

Sheathing preparation and installation

When installing the crate, it should be repelled from the thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the bars will be the same. The most commonly chosen beam 10-50 mm thick and 100 mm wide.

The crate is mounted transversely to the laying of logs with a step between the bars equal to the width of the heat-insulating mats with minus 3 centimeters for tight entry. The height of the crate is individual for individual rooms.

In parallel with the laying of logs, a crate is also similarly mounted (the so-called "counter-lattice"). For the installation of the crate, you should choose high-quality material without traces of decay. Before installation, all wooden parts and surfaces should be treated with an antiseptic.

NOTE!

Do not use thin boards for lathing, as it also serves as a place for attaching finishing coatings.

crate

Insulation of the ceiling of a wooden house

As a rule, ceiling insulation is not treated responsibly. Many people think that it is not necessary to insulate it, but this is far from the case. The air that people try so hard to warm in winter rises up and goes through the ceiling to the street. Making a serious mistake - leaving the ceiling not insulated, many themselves, without knowing it, lose half of the heat, they senselessly spend money on warmth fading into the unknown.

Ceiling insulation material:

Mineral wool. This material is not expensive, but reliable and easy to install. He is one of the few heaters with whom you can work on your own without calling for help from other workers and, most importantly, do not pay them money.
Glassine. Used as a waterproofing material is used.

For frame structures and sheathing you will need:

Cutting board.
Nails, glue, polyurethane foam.
Drywall.

Ceiling insulation tools:

A hammer.
Hacksaw.
Screwdriver.
Electric jigsaw.
Tile adhesive.

Stages of ceiling insulation:

From edged boards we make a frame, you need to be prepared for the fact that this will reduce the height of the room. The distance between the boards of the frame should be no more than 1 meter.
Between the boards of the frame it is necessary glue glassine, without leaving empty spaces, so that the material holds well, it needs to be smeared a little with tile adhesive.
Over glassine we lay the insulation- mineral wool. Do not leave holes between the insulation. If the material does not hold, use tile adhesive in small quantities.
The last step is plasterboard ceiling lining. Using a screwdriver, we fasten sheets of drywall to a wooden frame.

It is necessary to insulate the ceiling from the inside in the warm season and not earlier than 1 year after the construction of the house. Only in this case, the insulation will pass correctly and last for many years.

Which heater to choose

When choosing insulation for the walls of the house, first of all, you should pay attention to the ability of the material to pass steam and air, while retaining heat. . The severity of the climate of the region of residence should also be taken into account.

The severity of the climate of the region of residence should also be taken into account.

Of the materials for insulation can be distinguished:

interventional heaters used at the construction stage;
and heaters used for insulation from the outside or inside.

The interventional insulation is used in the laying of the interventional joints. Such heaters are synthetic and natural (from jute, moss, flax, hemp). The main property of these materials is low thermal conductivity and the ability to accumulate and release the resulting moisture. The most common today are linen and jute fiber insulation.

Basalt (mineral) wool is widely used to insulate walls from the outside or from the inside., or fiberglass wool in the form of rolls or mats, with a density of 80 -120 kg / m3. In addition, it is an environmentally friendly material.

It is not recommended to use polystyrene or polystyrene foam as an element of the pie, since these materials are vapor and moisture resistant and prevent air exchange between the house and the external environment.

Materials such as:

mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
penoplex;
penofol;
penoizol;

Mineral wool - the best option for insulation

Nuances and proper insulation avoid mistakes

We decided on the scope of work and the choice of materials. A lot of money and labor has been spent, it will be a shame if, due to mistakes, you do not get the desired effect. To keep your home warm:

First, insulate inside: floor, ceiling, roof, windows, doors. Caulk the cracks and seams between the logs. If there is little effect, insulate the house from the outside.

Insulate the facade after precipitation, in a year and a half. The new house shrinks 3 - 10%. If it is old, the period is not important, but treat the wood with an insecticidal solution, get rid of the living creatures. Birds love to pull the caulk out of the cracks, looking for insects.

Treat wood with an antiseptic to prolong its life and prevent mold. Let the house dry. When applying impregnation, follow the instructions given by the manufacturer.

If the logs are the same, fill the crate under the insulation horizontally (there will be no gaps), although the vertical position makes it easier to align with a plumb line (level).

The advantage of the horizontal arrangement of the crate is the uniform weathering of moisture from the insulation. With vertical - it accumulates at the bottom, the material dries longer.

Between the logs, if there is a gap, add pieces of insulation. The fewer voids, the higher the quality of work.

Fasten the ends of the film with tape or twist, like a seam in jeans, and press with a stapler so that they do not unfold. The vapor permeability of the membrane must be at least 1400 g/m2.

Take the choice of windproofing seriously. It protects the insulation from external influences: moisture and wind. To the outside, it works with the opposite effect. To dry the insulation, a ventilated gap is used, which should be at least 5 cm.

The correct insulation technology (“sandwich”) looks like this: log house wall + tight-fitting insulation (preferably 2 layers with overlapping joints) + membrane, i.e. wind-proofing film + air space (ventilation) and crate for siding or other decorative material for the facade, on which the last layer is fixed - the lining.

To insulate a log house only from the outside - transfer of funds. You can save heat and save on fuel by conducting complex thermal insulation.

When external insulation is impossible, this does not mean that you need to make a “thermos” inside. Wood is an excellent insulation, do not “cut off” it with a film.

Internal wall insulation with air ventilation is ineffective. Lay the insulation tightly to the logs, increasing the heat capacity of the wood due to thickening.

Note: Calculate the dew point. According to the rules, with external insulation, it is located in a heater, with internal insulation - in wood, closer to the street.

How to caulk walls correctly?

Warming from the outside does not mean that it is not necessary to caulk or that it is enough to process the wall from the inside. This is mistake. With or without insulation, you need to caulk. The process looks like this:

start from the bottom;
walk along the contour of the house;
process one crown from the outside, then from the inside;
second row - repeat, and so on to the very top.

The main rule of caulking is the uniformity of work on the office on both sides of the walls. Stepping back from it, you will break the laying of logs and create distortions in the structure. This will lead to the appearance of “cold bridges” in the area of \u200b\u200bwindows and doors.

The process is labor-intensive, so the caulk is replaced with a sealant. It is synthetic but provides 100% sealing. Reviews about the quality are positive - you choose.

Owners of log houses are most often faced with drafts in the premises, often blowing on their legs from the floor, the house cools down quickly if the heating is turned off. From all this, it is concluded that a log house should be insulated with high quality, and start from the floor, as it blows strongly and gives off a lot of heat. The ceiling should also be checked, as up to 70% of the heat can escape through the attic.

How to insulate a log house from the inside

To retain heat, it is necessary to insulate the attic or attic floor, process the outer walls and all structures - windows, slopes, entrance doors, etc. Do not forget to check whether the walls are carefully caulked, maybe cracks have already formed over time. We also note that it is necessary to make heating more efficient, it is possible to equip "warm floors" in addition to the existing system.

Too thin walls of the house are also the cause of the cold in the room. For example, for a climate with low humidity, logs with a thickness of 200 - 240 mm are sufficient; for regions of Russia with wet winters, it is advisable to use logs for walls with a diameter of more than 400 mm. Next, we will consider what materials are best used to insulate a log house, if the house has already been built, but there is no comfort in it.

Used thermal insulation materials

The main characteristic of thermal insulation is the coefficient of thermal conductivity. No less important when deciding on the choice of a particular material will be the class of combustibility and density.

Mineral wool

Non-combustible, fibrous material produced from melts of silicon and basalt rocks, slag residues of metallurgical production and their mixtures. It is produced in the form of rolls or mats of various densities.

When insulating vertical surfaces, it is more convenient to work with separate plates. The optimal density in this case should be in the range from 40 to 60 m³/kg.

When using, the use of hydro and vapor barrier is mandatory. Wet cotton wool contributes to a sharp decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Styrofoam and XPS

The structure of foamed insulation, which includes EPS and foam plastics, is a large number of closed, air-filled cells. Such a structure eliminates the need for any additional protective layers. The difference between XPS compared to foam is a denser and therefore more resistant to moisture structure.

When organizing work, you should opt for low-combustible grades (G1 or G2). G4 is characterized by the release of acrid black smoke and burning drops during combustion and is not allowed for use in wooden houses.

Wireframe creation

When working with any kind of soft material, including mineral wool, you must first create a frame around the entire perimeter of the walls, which will securely hold the insulation. Wood is most often used to create the crate, but metal guides can also be used if sheathing is then carried out with heavy material, for example, drywall.

The crate is a guide located vertically from floor to ceiling at a distance of 40 - 60 cm. Such stiffeners allow not only to securely fix the insulation, but also to close it with clapboard or any other material.

First, the corner elements are mounted. To do this, a bar is attached to the rib bar, the cross section of which is most often 50x100 mm, at a right angle. After manufacturing, such elements are sewn to the corner of the wall after checking the level. The entire frame is already marked from them, and stiffeners are attached.

Taking into account the possibility of moisture, all elements of the frame should be treated with antiseptics, like the walls of the house themselves.

Insulation protection

An important element of the frame with insulation are special films that prevent moisture from entering the material. After mounting the frame, a waterproofing film is stretched around the entire perimeter of the walls. Usually, it is laid in a horizontal plane, protecting the joints with a special waterproofing tape. Such a film will serve as an effective protection for the insulation, because the wetting of the material significantly increases its thermal conductivity.

It is equally important to protect the heat insulator from internal moisture. Such wall cladding almost completely removes natural ventilation, so condensation can form at the border of the insulation, which can harm the material.

In order to avoid the negative influence of internal humidity, the insulation is closed with a vapor barrier, which additionally protects all residents of the house from particles of mineral wool.

Solving the cold floor problem

Home heating will not work efficiently if the house has cold floors. They cool the room and do not allow the air to warm up.

The wooden floor is insulated very simply, for this it is necessary to remove the floor upholstery. In order not to confuse the order in which the boards lay, it is better to mark them in advance. This will save a lot of time during assembly. Then the entire surface between the lags is covered with waterproofing so that the insulation does not pick up moisture from the soil.

The heat-insulating material is laid on it in such a way that there are no slightest cracks over the entire surface of the floor. Insulation is used by anyone who is not afraid of moisture. On top, you need to lay another layer of waterproofing, because when cleaning the premises, water can get there and accumulate inside. After that, the floor boards will need to be laid in the reverse order.

The cement floor is insulated in two ways. If the height of the premises allows, logs made of wooden beams are laid on the floor. Between them, a heater is laid, which is closed with waterproofing from above. Then the floor is upholstered with a board.

If the ceiling height does not allow raising the floor level, you need to remove the cement screed and remove the floor backfill by about half a meter. After that, the pit is waterproofed and the insulation is filled up. Usually expanded clay is used for this. A layer of foam or other dense material is laid on top of it. A new screed is made on top.

Wall insulation from the inside in wooden houses makes them more comfortable and economical. In addition, the good performance of the walls in terms of heat engineering allows you to save on heating. The issue should be approached seriously, since the result will completely depend on the chosen material and compliance with the technology.

Thermal insulation of the house from the inside avoids the need for exterior decoration. With this approach, it is possible to preserve the attractive appearance of a building made of timber or rounded logs. But the technology has a number of disadvantages that you should prepare for:

interiors are protected from the harmful effects of cold, but not walls;
the useful area of the building is reduced;
there are certain restrictions on the materials used.

Which heater to choose

What is the best way to insulate a house? It is worth starting from the material of the walls. The tree has gained well-deserved popularity due to the fact that it is able to "breathe". Wood is well breathable, while providing excellent ventilation in the premises.

To preserve the useful properties to the fullest, when working from the inside with your own hands, you need to use materials that are similar in breathability to wood. To insulate the house, it is better to abandon such heat insulators as:

Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam (or more simply "Penoplex");
penoizol.

They are highly airtight, so they can create a greenhouse effect in the building. This will require an expensive forced ventilation device or the installation of air conditioners.

The best material for thermal insulation will be mineral wool.

Its advantages include:

high efficiency;
the ability to pass air without interfering with natural ventilation;
safety for human health and the environment;
incombustibility;
ease of installation;
availability;
low cost.

But when using cotton wool, it is worth remembering its shortcomings. The material absorbs moisture well, while ceasing to perform its main function. To avoid getting wet, you should also purchase a vapor barrier and wind-waterproofing.

Scheme of layers for insulation with mineral wool

There are several varieties of mineral wool. The best option would be basalt (stone) insulation in slabs. You can also choose glass wool, which is available in the form of mats twisted into a roll. The second option can cause difficulties during installation. The material is highly prickly, and the particles, getting into the lungs or on the skin, cause itching. To avoid unpleasant consequences, all work with glass wool is carried out in special clothing and masks.

The most undesirable, but inexpensive option would be slag wool. But, insulating your home, it is better not to save. Cotton wool is made from industrial waste. Manufacturers are responsible for safety, but it is not always possible to check from which slags the insulation is made. You can easily come across low-quality material or a fake, with which the insulation of a wooden house from the inside will be dangerous to health and life.

Preparatory stage

Before insulating a wooden house from the inside, you will need to prepare the walls. This is especially true if it is necessary to insulate an old wooden house. In this case, the material that was used for the caulking has managed to clot. The main task at this stage will be the elimination of cracks - sources of drafts, cold and moisture.

Work begins with cleaning the base. You will need to remove the dust and dirt that has accumulated on the walls. Before insulating an old house, it is worth checking the strength of the wood. It should not be damaged by various pests. Otherwise, it is better to strengthen the walls.

To prevent problems with insects and microorganisms in the future, the surface is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can also perform the treatment with fire retardants, they increase the resistance of the material to fire.

Treatment with antiseptics will protect the wood from decay

Wood shrinks over time. Because of this, cracks may appear in the walls. Before starting work on insulation, it is worth caulking old walls. Currently, jute is most often used for these purposes. For large gaps, it would be wise to purchase tape tow. The material is hammered between logs or timber using a chisel.

Caulking will protect the walls from blowing and become an additional heat insulator

It is necessary to perform work until the material ceases to fit into the space and begins to hang out. High-quality caulking is the key to a warm home.

Wind waterproofing of walls

Mineral wool is afraid of moisture. Before you insulate the walls in a wooden house, you should take care of protecting the insulation. On the outside of the mineral wool, a layer of wind-waterproofing is fixed. It prevents weathering and penetration of atmospheric moisture. There are several types of suitable materials, but the best option is a vapor diffusion membrane.

Description and characteristics of the windproof membrane

This modern material reliably protects against water, but does not interfere with the movement of air and steam. This allows you to maintain the ability of the walls to breathe, as well as ensure the removal of moisture from the insulation.

Waterproofing is attached to the walls with a construction stapler. The joints of the canvases are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and glued with adhesive tape or a special tape.

Insulation installation

Internal wall insulation is carried out according to the frame. It can be made of wood from a metal profile. The easiest way to insulate a building made of wood is to use wood for the frame. It is important to correctly select the geometric dimensions of the frame:

The pitch of the racks is selected taking into account the width of the insulation. It should be about 2 cm less than the width of the mats or slabs. This is necessary for a tight fit of the material. For mineral wool, such a step of racks is most often used so that a distance of 58 cm remains between them in the light.
The frame overhang must take into account the thickness of the insulation and the required ventilation gap. It is needed to remove condensate from the surface and allows you to keep the material dry. The thickness of the ventilation gap is usually taken equal to 3-5 cm.

Installation of plates in the walls should be carried out with an interference fit - then it will not begin to slide over time

Mineral wool is laid between the racks of the crate. With the right choice of the step of the latter, the heat insulator will be held due to friction. For additional fixing, you can use special plastic dowels, they are usually sold together with insulation.

vapor barrier

How to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside? It is important not only to choose the right insulation, but also to protect it from all types of moisture. Indoor spaces are characterized by sufficiently high humidity, water in the form of steam can easily reach the mineral wool and reduce its effectiveness.

Vapor barrier is a mandatory layer when using mineral wool

Internal wall insulation implies the obligatory presence of a vapor barrier layer. It is mounted on top of the heater. A good option for protection is vapor barrier membranes.

Characteristics of the vapor barrier membrane

They are more expensive than films, but they do not interfere with the movement of air through the walls. Membranes will become a more modern and efficient option.
Insulation of a wooden wall from the inside with their help is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions. Mounting method may vary for different types.

Finishing

The insulation of the walls of a wooden house is completed with a fine finish. For these purposes, you can use a variety of options. But when choosing a material, it is worth remembering about ventilation. The finishing layer should not impede the movement of air, otherwise the entire previous choice of materials is useless.

Lining for interior lining - a simple, inexpensive and environmentally friendly option

Insulation thickness

Wall insulation in wooden houses from the inside should begin with the calculation of the thickness of the heat insulator. Only a professional can perform detailed calculations. With independent construction, you can use special programs. For example, the Teremok program. It is quite simple and is freely available. There is both an online version and a PC app.

On average, mineral wool 80-100 mm thick is used for walls. But it all depends on the climatic region.
Before insulating your own wooden house from the inside, you should carefully study the information on the topic.

And do not forget that from the point of view of heat engineering, it is more correct to insulate with mineral wool from the outside.

Competent performance of work is the key to durability and comfort.

Building science recommends doing external insulation of buildings, since in this case the dew point is outside the room in the insulation or in the outer layer of the walls. With such insulation in rooms, moisture will not condense on the walls.

However, there are cases when insulation of a wooden house from the inside- is the only correct solution. For example, if the owner of the house wants to preserve the beautiful appearance characteristic of houses made of logs or laws prescribe to preserve the historical appearance of the building.

Modern building science allows you to make internal insulation of wooden houses, but for this you need to use the right materials and follow the technology.

Preparatory work

All work on the construction and arrangement of residential buildings must be preceded by

engineering calculations. This also applies to the internal insulation of a wooden house.

The thermotechnical calculation should show how effective the insulation will be and, in general, is there a possibility of internal insulation? The insulation will always fulfill its function, but the position of the dew point is of decisive importance.

The dew point should never be on interior walls. and even more so in the insulation and calculations should show this. If the dew point is inside, then the room will be warm, but in the cold season it will be constantly damp. And from dampness, porous heaters get wet, the walls of houses rot, mold and various unwanted living creatures are massively bred.

Only if the dew point is not inside the room even in the coldest period, you can confidently produce internal insulation. True, for this you will have to sacrifice part of the internal volume of the house, but without this - nothing!

Materials used for internal insulation

Materials that are used in the internal insulation of the house, must meet certain requirements:

Firstly, they must have low thermal conductivity in order to fulfill their main function - insulation.
Secondly, these materials must meet the fire safety requirements for the premises.
Thirdly, the material alone or in combination with the mounting structure must provide the required mechanical strength.
And, finally, all materials used indoors must be environmentally friendly and not release any chemicals into the surrounding air that adversely affect the health of living beings.

Warming methods

Ways to insulate a wooden house directly depend on the materials used for this. In modern construction, several types of them are used:

Mineral basalt wool slabs- are most commonly used. This material does not burn, environmentally friendly, its use provides excellent heat and sound insulation. Low mechanical strength requires the construction of a building envelope, and high hygroscopicity obliges to cover mineral wool with special vapor barrier films.
Expanded polystyrene plates (polystyrene), have also found application in internal insulation. Their use is not recommended, as they can release substances containing styrene into the air. When burning, pressless expanded polystyrene releases deadly substances: hydrogen cyanide and toluene diisocyanate. Therefore, only extruded polystyrene foam, flammability class - G1, can be used. Insulation with expanded polystyrene also requires a building envelope.
glass wool- a widely used material for insulation. It has a lower price than basalt wool, however, it also has a higher thermal conductivity. To insulate the interior with glass wool, only material specially designed for this purpose should be used, which should additionally be covered with films. Small particles of glass wool are very harmful to health, so the installation is carried out only in the means of protecting the skin and respiratory organs. Requires building envelopes.
Isoplat- modern insulation, which consists of a layer of pressed linen fiber and fiberboard with a thickness of 12 to 25 mm. High mechanical strength makes it possible not to make powerful enclosing structures, and the environmental friendliness of this material allows it to be used indoors. The thermal conductivity of Isoplat is worse, and the price is much higher than that of other heaters.
Insulation with polyurethane foam sprayed on the surface - a modern excellent method that requires special equipment. Enclosing structures for such insulation are needed.

In this video you can see how a wooden house is insulated from the inside with polyurethane foam.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside

Sealing joints

A wooden house, even an impeccably built one, settles down for quite a long time. In addition to precipitation, when the heating is turned on in the house, there is an intensive drying of the wood, which affects the geometric dimensions of the log or glued beam. Initially, even well-laid logs or beams can form enlarged gaps at their joints, through which heat will be ruthlessly carried out into the atmosphere.

Therefore, the first operation for warming a house is sealing joints.

This can be done in various materials: tow, jute, synthetic sealants or combinations of different sealants. The main thing at this stage is to stop the leakage of heated air through the joints.

Fire bioprotection of wood

The inner part of the walls during insulation will be hidden by a layer of insulation, and for quite a long time. That is why the tree must be treated with a good fire-retardant composition, which for a long time eliminate the development of living creatures and make it difficult to ignite. It’s not worth saving on this, you need to choose only good compositions that are guaranteed to provide the necessary protection.

When processing walls with fire-retardant compounds, it should be taken into account that all enclosing structures, if they are wooden, must also be processed, since they will also be hidden in the insulation structure.

Thermal insulation and ventilation

Why didn’t they think much about the ventilation of houses before? Yes, because ventilation was carried out in a natural way - through leaks in wall and window structures.

Modern building materials and technologies exclude any leaks and gaps through which air can pass, but this does not mean that air should not circulate in the room. In modern houses, a ventilation system is designed, which should supply fresh air to the room and remove the exhaust.

Good internal thermal insulation must always be accompanied by ventilation. Only then will the microclimate in the room be normal. But ventilation is also required by the thermal insulation itself, which has a soft and porous structure, for example, mineral wool. Therefore, in the gap between the wall and the thermal insulation layer, there must be an air gap, through which air must circulate freely, removing excess moisture, comparing the air humidity in the entire room.

Such intervals are realized in practice very easily. A wooden lath about 2.5 cm thick is attached to the walls with a certain gap, and a vapor barrier membrane is already attached to it. It turns out that there is an air gap between the wall and the insulation, which prevents the increased humidity of the internal walls and insulation.

If the walls of the house are built from a cylindrical log, then ventilation gaps are obtained naturally, and if from glued beams, then a ventilation gap is highly desirable.

vapor barrier

If used as a heater basalt wool, glass wool, pressless polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier must be done. To do this, a vapor barrier film is attached to the ventilation crate using a construction stapler. The film must be sufficiently stretched so that there is a ventilation gap between it and the wall. the joining of two panels of vapor barrier is done with an overlap of at least 10 cm using adhesive tape and a stapler.

If the interior of the house will be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier is not needed. This material already has the necessary waterproofing qualities and will be a reliable barrier to moisture.

Installation of the enclosing structure

With all methods of insulating the internal walls of a wooden house, except for Isoplat plates, the construction of a building envelope is required. Most often, it is made from a wooden square bar with a cross section of 50 mm. The installation step of the bar is determined by the width of the insulation. If mineral wool insulation is used, then the distance between adjacent bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulation - for a snug fit. If extruded polystyrene foam is used, then the distance must be exactly the width of the insulation boards.

Before installation it is necessary to process all the bars with a fire-retardant composition. Installation is carried out using screws of the required length directly to the wooden walls. If a crate was used for the ventilation gap, then the bars are attached to previously mounted rails. In this case, it is better to wrap the screws in holes previously drilled with a thin drill. This will prevent possible cracking of the wood.

Sometimes plasterboard profiles are used as a building envelope, which are attached to the walls on direct suspensions. This should only be done when drywall will be used as a finish, and in all other cases it is better to use a block of wood. The thermal conductivity of wood is much lower than that of metal.

When insulating the ceiling, the enclosing structure is made similarly to the wall. When insulating the floor, the wooden logs themselves, on which the floor covering will be attached, act as a building envelope.

Insulation installation

Insulation is placed in the space between the enclosing bars. If a sheet insulation, then installation on the walls is carried out from the bottom up, and rolled, on the contrary, from top to bottom.

Mineral wool slabs are laid at random, which makes it possible for them to hold securely. However, it is still necessary to additionally strengthen the foam or mineral wool with special dowels with a wide head, one dowel per slab.

Roll insulation fixed on top with one dowel, rolled down and fixed with dowels at 1 meter intervals. First, whole slabs or rolls are laid, and the remaining space where trimming is required is filled with insulation last.

Ceiling insulation, in the case of a sloping roof, rolls up from the bottom up and can be fastened with dowels or with a cord. To do this, small carnations are stuffed onto adjacent bars with an interval of 15 cm, and then, after laying the insulation between the beams, a cord is pulled in a zigzag manner, which will securely hold the mineral wool.

If extruded polystyrene foam is used for insulation, then all possible gaps at the joints can be filled with mounting foam. Before applying the foam, the surfaces are moistened, and after it dries, all excess is cut with a knife.

Final waterproofing

After installing the insulation, if the thermal insulation was made with porous materials that can absorb water, then it is necessary to cover the insulation with a layer of waterproofing, but with a special one - vapor permeable membrane, which is, on the one hand, a reliable barrier to water, and on the other hand, the membrane freely releases water vapor from the insulation. Even if water has condensed in the insulation, it will come out in the form of steam until the humidity of the insulation is equal to the humidity in the room.

The breathable film has two sides: one is smooth and the other is rough, through which water vapor escapes. The rough side of such a film is laid to the insulation and fastened with a stapler to the building envelope. Joints with an overlap of 10 cm are glued with adhesive tape and fixed with a stapler. For waterproof insulation, a vapor-permeable membrane is not needed.

The final stage of warming there will be installation of the finishing coating, which can be wooden lining, drywall, plywood, OSB boards and others.

conclusions

Wall insulation inside a wooden house is extremely rare and very often a necessary measure.
Before installing the internal thermal insulation, it is necessary to carry out thermal calculations showing the position of the dew point in the cold period. Tochna dew should not be on the inner walls and in the insulation.
As a heater, you should choose only environmentally friendly from well-known manufacturers.
Porous insulation must be covered with waterproofing films from the side of the wall and a vapor-permeable membrane from the side of the room.

If you are going to independently carry out the insulation of a wooden house from the inside, I recommend that you read this article. We will consider in detail all the main nuances and subtleties of this procedure, which you are unlikely to be told about on other resources.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house from the inside

A few words about the choice of insulation

Wood is known to be a combustible material. Therefore, it is desirable that the insulation be fireproof.

Given these points, you can use the following materials for home insulation:

mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam;
ecowool.

Mineral wool

mineral wool

Mineral wool is the most common insulation.

It is excellent for thermal insulation of wooden housing due to the following properties:

good thermal insulation properties - 0.032 - 0.048 W/mK;
environmental friendliness;
good vapor permeability;
fire safety - mineral wool not only does not burn, but also resists the spread of fire;
Sold in the form of mats and rolls, making it convenient to work with mineral wool.

It should be noted that only basalt wool is environmentally friendly. In addition, it is the most thermally stable. Therefore, use it to insulate a wooden house.

Basalt wool Technikol

True, the price of basalt wool is slightly higher than stone wool and glass wool:

brand	Cost per 1m3
Isoroc Isoruf-V	3990
TECHNOFAS L	3500
Ecover Light	1950
TECHNOFLOR	4800

Another disadvantage of basalt wool is that it causes irritation on the skin, although to a lesser extent than, for example, glass wool. But, in any case, when working with it, it is desirable to protect the eyes and respiratory organs.

In general, in my opinion, basalt wool is the most optimal insulation for wooden walls.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam is a type of regular polystyrene foam.

Thanks to a special manufacturing technology, it has higher characteristics than expanded polystyrene:

high strength - 0.2-0.5 MPa versus 0.07 MPa for foam;
thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.028-0.034 W / mK;
during the manufacturing process, manufacturers add flame retardants to extruded polystyrene foam, due to which the material corresponds to the flammability class G1 (low combustible material). True, this applies only to insulation from well-known manufacturers;
resistant to moisture, therefore, during installation does not require hydro-vapor barrier;
does not irritate the skin.

Penoplex differs from polystyrene in a more homogeneous structure

However, penoplex has some disadvantages:

vapor permeability is very low, so it is better not to use penoplex to insulate the walls of the house. At the same time, it will be a good solution for thermal insulation of the floor, as it is not afraid of moisture;
high cost - penoplex is today one of the most expensive heat-insulating materials.

Below is the cost for some common grades of extruded polystyrene foam:

Ecowool is a modern eco-friendly material

Ecowool

Ecowool is a relatively new thermal insulation material that has become increasingly popular in recent years.

Its merits include the following points:

environmental friendliness - the material is made on the basis of wood fibers;
vapor permeability;
thanks to special additives that are present in ecowool, the insulation is fireproof and resistant to biological influences;
has a low thermal conductivity of 0.031-0.040 W / m * K;
low cost - from 1200 rubles. per cube

Ecowool can be used to insulate horizontal surfaces

Warming technology

The process of warming a wooden house includes three main stages:

The main stages of thermal insulation of a wooden house from the inside

Floor insulation

To insulate the floor yourself, you will need the following materials:

one of the heaters that I talked about above;
vapor barrier;
slats and boards - will be needed if there is no subfloor between the lags;
antiseptic impregnation for wood.

Wooden floor plan

The instruction for floor insulation looks like this:

if the floor has already been used, it is necessary to dismantle the wooden flooring;
then you need to complete the draft floor, unless, of course, it is missing. To do this, fasten the cranial bars on the rafters from below and lay the boards on top of them;
Further treat all wooden floor elements with an antiseptic to protect them from biological influences;

Laying vapor barrier on logs

then a vapor barrier is laid over the rafters and the subfloor. The strips of the membrane should overlap each other by 10 centimeters. Be sure to glue the joints with tape.
As I said above, in the case of floor insulation with extruded polystyrene foam, vapor barrier can be omitted;

Insulation laying

Next, you need to lay the insulation. If mineral plates or penoplex are used for these purposes, place the insulation close to the logs. In addition, make sure that there are no gaps between the insulation plates;

It is desirable to leave a small gap between the insulation and the top layer of the vapor barrier.

then you need to lay another layer of the vapor barrier;
at the end of the work, it is necessary to lay the boards, fixing them on the logs with nails or self-tapping screws.

I must say that the thermal insulation of the attic floor is performed in exactly the same way, with the only difference being that the insulation is placed between the floor beams.

Wall insulation

The next stage is the insulation of the walls from the inside of a wooden house. I must say right away that it is necessary to resort to this procedure only if it is really necessary.

Scheme of wall insulation from the inside

It is much more expedient to insulate the house from the outside.

The fact is that internal insulation contains a number of disadvantages:

insulation, although not significantly, but still takes up useful space in the room. For large houses, this, of course, is not critical, but in small houses, for example, garden ones, the reduction in space can be very noticeable;
after the walls are insulated from the inside, they completely stop heating;
moisture forms between the insulation and the wall, which leads to dampness of the surface and, accordingly, a decrease in the durability of the structure.

If insulation from the inside cannot be avoided, it is necessary to strictly adhere to a certain technology that will minimize all the negative consequences of this procedure.

Antiseptic impregnation

So, for wall insulation, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

antiseptic impregnation for wood;
interventional insulation;
wooden slats;
vapor barrier;
thermal insulation material;
finishing material - lining or, for example, drywall.

The process of wall insulation can be divided into four main stages:

Stages of wall insulation from the inside

To prepare the walls for insulation with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps:

wall surfaces must be impregnated to prevent wood decay, protect it from moisture and other negative factors;

Warming of the crowns of the house

if the house is made of beams or logs, it is imperative to insulate the intervention gaps by filling them with tow, jute insulation, or other suitable material.

Now we need to equip the ventilation space between the wall and the insulation so that the walls do not get damp.

It is done as follows:

fasten the rails to the walls in a horizontal position. Their thickness should be at least 1.5-2 cm.

The layout of the planks on the wall

Install them at a distance of 0.5 m vertically, and 2-3 cm horizontally. At the same time, try to arrange them so that they form a flat horizontal plane. Minor deviations are allowed, since the plane of the frame can be corrected at the stage of installing the racks;

The vapor barrier membrane must be stretched

then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the rails. It should be stretched to form a ventilation gap. Glue the joints of the membrane with adhesive tape;
for the ventilation gap to work, it is necessary to drill holes in the wall from below near the base, and from above under the visor.

Now let's start assembling the frame:

the bars that will serve as racks must be cut to the height of the room;

Racks can be mounted on the wall with hangers

prepared bars must be fixed on the rails. If their thickness is equal to the thickness of the insulation, the racks can be placed close to the rails using metal corners and self-tapping screws. If the bars are thinner, they should be fixed on suspensions, while the thickness of the frame should be equal to the thickness of the insulation.
Make the distance between the posts so that the insulation fits snugly against them. For example, if mineral mats are used for insulation, the step of the racks can be made two centimeters less than the width of the mats.

An example of a well-executed frame

To make the wall even, first install vertical posts (required in level) along the edges of the wall, i.e. near the corners, then pull the threads between them. This will allow you to set the intermediate racks in the same plane as the extreme bars;

Mineral mats must be laid close to each other

Now we are laying the insulation in the frame. In order for the wall insulation in a wooden house to be effective from the inside, try to ensure that there are no gaps between the plates. In addition, place the tiles flush against the ceiling and against the walls.
If the cracks are nevertheless formed, they must be filled with scraps of mineral wool;

Installation of the second layer of vapor barrier

then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the racks. To fix it, you can use a construction stapler.
Be sure to overlap the strips of the membrane, and glue the joints with adhesive tape;
fasten wooden slats about two centimeters thick over the membrane. They will provide the necessary clearance between the skin and the vapor barrier membrane.
Keep in mind that the crate should be perpendicular to the plastic panels or lining.

To ensure good sound insulation in housing, it is necessary to insulate the internal walls with mineral wool, i.e. partitions. The principle of installation of insulation is the same as for the insulation of load-bearing walls.

Now we need to sheathe the frame. Usually, wooden finishing materials are used for these purposes - lining or block house.

Their installation is carried out as follows:

lining is most often installed vertically, so the boards must first be cut to the height of the room;
the first lining is installed so that the spike is directed towards the corner. To fix it, self-tapping screws are screwed into the face from the side of the spike.

An example of fastening a lining with a kleimer

From the side of the groove, the vgonka can also be fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the lower ridge of the groove. It is even easier and faster to fix with the help of special fasteners - kleimers;

the subsequent board will be connected to the lock with the previous one and attached to the frame from the side of the groove. The last board on the wall is cut in width, and docked with the previous one. From the side of the corner, the lining is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the face;

An example of installing wooden slats

at the end of the work, wooden corners are mounted on the corners. They will hide the joints of the lining and the hats of the screws.

This completes the insulation of the walls inside the house.

Ceiling insulation

As I said above, ceiling insulation can be done from the attic side. However, sometimes it becomes necessary to install insulation from the inside.

If you have a similar situation, you need to prepare the following materials:

slab insulation;
wooden slats;
vapor barrier membrane.

Mineral wool ceiling insulation

Installation of insulation is carried out as follows:

if there is no flooring in the attic, it must be done. Boards or other material that is used as flooring should be fixed to the floor beams with nails or self-tapping screws;
then, from the side of the room, a vapor barrier membrane should be attached to the floor beams and flooring;
further, the space between the beams must be filled with heat-insulating plates. To fix them, you can fix the rails perpendicular to the beams. You can also nail studs to the lower side surfaces of the beams, and pull threads or wire between them;
after the insulation of the floor, it is necessary to fix another layer of vapor barrier;

In the photo - installation of a vapor barrier

then the crate is performed and the ceiling material is mounted. You can also make a frame and sheathe the ceiling with drywall.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside.

Conclusion

Having familiarized yourself with the technology, you can safely take on the insulation of a wooden house from the inside. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this work. I recommend watching the video in this article. For any questions, you can contact me in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

Country wooden houses are being built more and more often. This is explained not only by fashion old Russian style but also for other, quite material reasons.

For example, dry wood retains heat 2.5 times better than brickwork of the same thickness, and wooden walls, gradually drying out, emit pleasant-smelling substances into the air and thereby create a favorable microclimate.

Modern building codes (SNiP 23-02-2003) establish requirements for the thermal insulation of buildings. However, a wooden house, even built in compliance with all the rules, dries up and shrinks about three years after construction and is not always warm enough to meet these requirements. For this reason, it has to be insulated.

Usually wooden buildings warm outside. This is explained by the fact that during the external laying of thermal insulation, the dew point shifts from the surface or from the thickness of the wall to the surface or inside the layer of external thermal insulation. This means that logs or beams warm up well and always remain dry. And under such conditions, the wood is well protected from decay and destruction by fungi.

However, for some reason, it is not always possible to lay the thermal insulation on the outside. For example, old wooden buildings, considered architectural monuments, local authorities do not allow to be insulated in this way, as this changes their appearance. In such cases, the owner is forced to mount heat-insulating materials from the inside. Details about the features and technology of these works can be found in the article "Internal wall insulation is the best way to keep warm."

Rules for wall insulation from the inside in a wooden house

Warming the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands is possible if comply with such rules:

Before starting work, make heat engineering calculations, taking into account the thermal conductivity and wall thickness, as well as insulation materials of various types and thicknesses. With all these calculations, the dew point must remain inside the wooden wall for any temperature fluctuations.
For indoor installation, you need to choose heat insulators that do not emit harmful substances and are not decomposed by fungi and bacteria at high humidity.
Porous insulation must be reliably isolated from the wall with a vapor-tight membrane, and from the side of the room - vapor-permeable. In this case, the wood does not freeze and does not get wet, since only outside air with a low vapor content penetrates into it. And if condensate forms in the heat-insulating material when the dew point shifts, then when the temperature in the room rises, it will evaporate and exit through the pores of the vapor-permeable membrane.
Between the finish and the insulation, protected by a vapor-permeable membrane, there must be an air gap for the evaporation of condensate.

What heater to choose?

For internal insulation of wooden houses usually used such materials:

Warm seam. This concept includes natural and synthetic sealants. From natural, tow, flax or linen rope is used. Synthetic sealants are available in tubes. They contain sealing masses based on rubber, silicone or acrylic plastic. One of these materials fills the gaps between the logs, which were formed after the drying of the wood.
Mineral wool. Usually use basalt wool in slabs. Glass wool is not used for internal insulation, because small fragments of fiberglass irritate the skin and respiratory tract. Basalt wool allows steam to pass through and can accumulate some moisture, so it requires mandatory waterproofing from wood. Mineral wool does not have combustible properties.
Expanded polystyrene in slabs. It is used in the form of various modifications (foam, foam). It is preferable to insulate the walls with foam. This fine-mesh material has greater strength and better thermal insulation properties than foam. Expanded polystyrene does not require vapor barrier, since it practically does not let steam through, but it needs waterproofing. In terms of its ability to retain heat, it is approximately 1.5 times superior to basalt wool.
Penofol. This is a small-mesh polyethylene foam covered with aluminum foil. Is issued in rolls. In this case, it is worth using a 3 mm thick material with a one-sided coating to reflect heat radiation towards the room. Typically, penofol is used for combined insulation protecting the foam from moisture.

Insulation installation technology

Internal insulation of wooden walls in any case begins with joint sealing logs or beams (warm seam).

After that, the dry inner surface of the walls is processed several times antifungal agents. Bars for crates are also treated with these preparations. After complete drying, proceed to the laying of thermal insulation.

Insulate the walls in the following sequence:

Laying a vapor-tight membrane. The film is fixed on the beams or logs of the walls in a tense state with the help of brackets and a construction stapler. Neighboring panels are overlapped to a width of 15 cm. The edges of adjacent panels are glued with construction tape. This layer does not let steam or water through. Usually, the Megaspan B membrane is used for this, laying it with the rough side to the wall, and the smooth side to the insulation.
Lathing installation. To do this, you need bars with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm (the thickness is selected according to the thickness of the insulation layer, i.e., with a two-layer laying of mineral wool, the section of the bar is 50 × 100 mm). The bars are screwed vertically to the wall with self-tapping screws. The distance between them is 2–3 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slab.
Placement of thermal insulation. Between the bars of the crate, mineral wool slabs are tightly inserted end-to-end. If 2 layers are mounted, then the plates of the upper layer must overlap the joints of the lower one. After laying, the surface of the slabs should be on the same level with the beams of the crate.
Fixing the vapor permeable membrane. A vapor-permeable membrane is stretched over the insulation. It is fastened with a stapler to the lathing bars with an overlap of 15 cm. This film protects the mineral wool from water drops, but freely passes steam. Usually, the Megaspan A membrane is used for this, which is laid with the fleecy side to the heat-insulating material.
Lathing installation and finishing. The crate for the heat-insulating material is increased horizontally with bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm, screwing them with self-tapping screws. Finishing material (wooden panels, gypsum boards) is attached to this crate.

Installation of polystyrene boards slightly different in technology:

laying a vapor-tight membrane on the wall is not required, since this material practically does not allow steam to pass through;
a vapor-tight membrane (Megaspan B with the smooth side to the insulation) or penofol foil towards the room is fixed on top of the expanded polystyrene (15 cm overlap film, penofol end-to-end with gluing the joints with metallized adhesive tape).

Properly installed internal thermal insulation not enough to keep the walls of a wooden house warm. Internal insulation provides reliable insulation of walls from steam penetrating into the wood from the room.

Previously, this steam escaped through the pores, and after warming this path is blocked. This means that excess steam must now be removed. forced ventilation. This is best done with an air heating system. In it, forced ventilation and air heating are carried out in one cycle.

exhaust air with an excess of water vapor is constantly removed from the room. Under such conditions, the accumulation of condensate in the heater does not occur. At the same time, the steam does not penetrate the wood and does not moisten it.

You can insulate a wooden house from the inside yourself. However, this method of thermal insulation requires some knowledge and strict adherence to the rules. If you break the technology, the walls of the building quickly collapse.

The main condition for the preservation of walls with internal insulation - reliable vapor barrier. Vapors from the room must not penetrate dry wood.

Forced ventilation and air heating eliminate the accumulation of moisture in the insulation and the deterioration of the microclimate in the house, even in case of severe frosts.

A master class on warming the walls with mineral wool in a wooden house from the inside with your own hands, look at the video:

See below for a video tutorial on using a warm seam to insulate a wooden house:

Warming a wooden house from the inside is advisable, unless the owner wants to spoil the natural beauty of the natural material from the outside.

It is a pity to close a log cabin or a facade made of timber with another finishing material, and in this case it is necessary to insulate the walls from the inside.

Internal work includes insulation of walls, floors, ceilings, taking into account the number of storeys and the attic, and the roof.

Only environmentally friendly materials are suitable for warming the house from the inside in order to keep the microclimate of the premises healthy. Therefore, foam is not included in the list of recommended heaters.

It is allowed to use a safer penofol, as well as a universal material for the insulation of any buildings and structures - mineral wool.

Benefits of insulating a wooden house from the inside

The main advantage has already been mentioned above.

This is an opportunity to leave the facade of the house in its natural form. In addition, the floors inside the house can be insulated, which is very important for maintaining a healthy indoor climate.

Why is it impossible to insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Of course, you can do this, but external insulation has a number of advantages over internal insulation.

Experts advise using this method of insulation in isolated cases, when really external insulation is impossible.

This is due to a number of shortcomings, which should be mentioned in more detail.

The main disadvantage of internal thermal insulation in a wooden house is the displacement of the dew point deep into the wall. This will further lead to the formation of mold there and rotting of the tree.

Among other shortcomings, the following are important:

lack of natural ventilation of the walls;
violation of the microclimate in the premises;
reduction of usable area of the house.

In addition, none of the insulation, except for jute and felt, can be considered 100% environmentally friendly.

Therefore, it is better to insulate the house from the outside. But if this is not possible, it is necessary to choose the most suitable materials for internal insulation.

How can you insulate a wooden house from the inside?

warm seam

Special sealant for log cabins. It is used indoors to insulate the seams between the logs on the facade and ceiling.

Insulation of walls from the inside of a wooden house in various ways

"Warm seam" for insulation inside a wooden house

To maintain complete environmental friendliness, you can replace the sealants with jute, felt or linen tape and caulk the seams with them.

The cost of caulking seams inside the house is from 120 to 250 rubles per linear meter.

This is a very affordable price even for families with a small budget. Therefore, it is recommended to invite specialists to insulate the log house, only they can guarantee the high quality of work.

Mineral wool

Universal insulation, which is most often used outside. Affordable cost and high thermal insulation performance make this material the most popular among developers.

The insulation technology is the same for walls and ceilings.

Positive properties of mineral wool:

high environmental friendliness, especially in modern materials, where formaldehyde is replaced by safer components;
affordable cost - the material is considered the cheapest option for insulation inside a wooden house;
good thermal and sound insulation performance;
incombustibility;
durability - the material does not rot, is not susceptible to fungal diseases;
good indicators of vapor tightness, which, by the way, is both an advantage and a disadvantage.

The negative properties include:

the same vapor impermeability, due to which an unfavorable microclimate for human lungs can be created indoors;
shrinkage when wet;
the need to sheathe the walls with facial material (create a false wall).

Features of mineral wool insulation of walls and ceilings of a wooden house

Unlike external insulation, inside the material is glued directly to the wall, then it is sheathed with a vapor barrier.

It is best to use a special vapor barrier that allows air from the room to pass outside.

This will create additional natural ventilation to the insulation. Even if wet, the cotton wool can dry out due to the permeability of the vapor barrier.

A crate, timber or metal profile is installed on the vapor barrier (it is also possible under it), on which facing material, drywall, board, lining, imitation of timber, and so on are already attached.

Styrofoam

Polymer material based on foam, but without chemically harmful components.

Suitable for insulation inside a wooden house.

In the photo - extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex"

The advantages include good thermal insulation properties, low weight, durability and moisture resistance.

When choosing this material, such concepts as foamed and extruded polystyrene foam may occur.

In fact, this is the same material, the only difference is in the methods of its manufacture.

The main features of polystyrene foam insulation are the need for careful leveling of the surface and sealing of the seams between the sheets. Old boards must be cleaned of bumps and roughness, and the material is not suitable for a log house from a bar at all.

The joints between the sheets of material are foamed and cleaned after the foam dries.

Just like mineral wool, expanded polystyrene is suitable for insulating not only walls, but also ceilings.

polyurethane foam

The material of the future, which is applied in liquid form with a special apparatus. For insulation with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to mount a frame, which is filled with foam under pressure. It quickly hardens and forms a monolithic protective layer of insulation.

Polyurethane foam spraying

Polyurethane foam will reliably protect the house not only from cold and external noise, but will also provide additional guarantees of safety in case of fire.

The disadvantages include the complexity of finishing work after insulation with this material.

It needs to be plastered using a special mesh.

Floor insulation in a wooden house

In addition to the listed methods of insulation, which, as an option, are also suitable for floors, there are several more.

Warm floor

The "Heat floor" system, using IR film, is expensive, but at the moment it is the most optimal energy-saving option, which, moreover, creates a special coziness and comfort.

Backfill and fill floors

Expanded clay insulation and concrete pouring are relevant for the floors of the first and basement floors.

The advantages include good thermal insulation properties and affordable cost of materials.

There are also options for water and electric floors:

Before starting work on internal insulation, it is recommended to consult with specialists. Perhaps there is a way to insulate the exterior of the facade, and then only work on the insulation of floors will remain inside.

The process of heating the walls from the inside of a wooden house. Materials, tools and costs

Wooden houses are often insulated from the inside, so as not to spoil the facade and not overlap the beauty of the natural material with the outdoor decor.

A new building built of logs or logs will bake and will not initially get cold or warm, as the logs themselves are good heaters.

But after a year and a half, the best knife dissolves, cracks appear, and the house becomes cold.

How to insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Internal insulation requires meticulous preparation work to clear logs of mold and rot. The least control can cause further rot and failure of the façade.

If the house is new, logs or wood are usually already treated with special rot preparations.

How to properly insulate a wooden house in the interior?

In the case of a major overhaul and heating of the walls of an old house, it is necessary to clean them from colors or old backgrounds to a “live” panel.

Heating occurs according to the scheme:

wall cleaning;
wood treatment with antiseptics;
dew point detection;
vapor barrier laying;
laying of heat-insulating material;
exterior finish.

Depending on the material used, the outer surface is immediately decorative or intermediate - for example, drywall boards, which are then painted or tapped.

What materials are needed for internal wall insulation

For complete, technically correct thermal insulation, you will need:

antiseptic for wood;
vapor barrier film;
bar or metal profile for the box;
direct heater;
material for outdoor decoration.

For outdoor processing, the most popular drywall, the optimal combination of price and comfort when working with it, this material is becoming the most popular among finishes.

In addition, it has a negative combustibility, which is important for a wooden structure.

Learn more about the internal processing of gypsum.

Manufacturers of building materials and building materials offer a variety of modern materials as a heater, including expanded polystyrene and OSB (oriented particle board).

In photodirectional chipboard for internal insulation

Expanded polystyrene is a type of foam obtained by special technology, a convenient and inexpensive universal insulation (see photo).

also on external insulation with expanded polystyrene).

The tool will require a drill or screwdriver, a stapler to fix vapors, tape and level measurements.

The process of heating the walls from the inside of a wooden house

First, the walls are cleaned (damaged parts of the tree are removed), then the walls must be treated with an environmentally friendly antiseptic.

In specialized stores, their choice is sufficient, the average order price is 1000-1500 rubles per 10 liters.

This range is sufficient for processing 100 square meters of surface.

After processing, you must calculate the dew point according to a special program, and according to these calculations, indicate your location on the wall after installing the fan.

Then you need to install a vapor barrier.

This must be done - the steam lock protects the wooden facade from condensation that occurs when hot and cold air come into contact.

For vapor barrier insulation, non-perforated foil is used, which is available in rolls, especially in the case of vapor jet insulation.

The film is attached to the wall with a stapler.

Then a strip is formed along the level with a distance equal to the width of the insulating sheet. The thermal insulation is then tightly inserted between the vertical profile.

The last stage is the fixation of gypsum boards.

This insulation will help to significantly reduce the cost of heating your home in winter and cool it in summer.

How much does it cost to invite a team of end players?

In each region, their prices, mainly end caps, are per square meter of each layer.

But if you calculate on average, the cost per square meter of internal wall insulation is about 500-600 rubles.

It's not much if you think the experts will do a good job and keep the house warm for many years without any additional repairs.

How to attach a heater to a wooden wall

The connection of the heater to the wooden wall can be carried out when the structure is in operation and at the stage of completion of the façade.

Both options are acceptable, the main thing is to choose the right heating material and work in accordance with the installation technology.

Mineral wool for wood wall insulation

The easiest and most affordable option for heating a wood facade is to use mineral wool and materials based on this.

The advantage of such materials is the excellent vapor permeability and breathability performance and their ability to remove excessive moisture from the walls.

To properly mount heaters on a wooden wall, it is important to follow expert advice or have some experience in a similar job.

You will need the following materials and tools to complete the installation:

wooden blocks for the box;
heater;
construction of a Scottish eye for the treatment of joints;
membrane film for waterproofing;
foil adhesive composition, moisture resistant;
self-tapping screws;
facing materials.

As for the tool, it is not possible to install insulation on a wooden base:

The heating technology is not difficult as you can see yourself as you study the information below.

The scheme of fastening the material on wooden walls

At the initial stage of work, a wooden box made of metal profiles or well-dried wooden blocks should be installed.

They will act as a guide and a layer of insulation should be placed between them.

The pitch of the lamella must correspond to the dimensions of the insulating boards.

Due to the high elasticity of mineral wool, the laying of the layer can be carried out "on the bench" so that they remain in balance with each other.

This type of device eliminates the formation of "cold bridges".

For safety, you can additionally insulate the insulation around the rim with masking tape.

We have described the simplest technology for installing mineral wool on wooden walls.

In fact, in some areas of the country where particularly harsh climates are used, up to 100 mm thick, they are installed in several layers for each preparation of an individual container.

Naturally, mineral wool materials should not be used to insulate wooden houses.

How to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside: the choice of material and technology, the stage of work

Rules for preparing material and facade for installation

Regardless of how the material for heating the wooden facade walls was chosen, it is important to pack it the day before work in order to take it into its original form.

The implementation of thermal insulation is better in the warm season without precipitation per day.

Before proceeding with the installation of the heater, it is important to check the structure of the house due to defects that require removal.

If the old finish does not meet the strength requirements, then the correct solution will be eliminated by subsequent cleaning of the facade walls of the house with compounds that protect them from fungi, bacteria and mold.

Given that most wood heaters in the home are based on wool, it is important to protect the material from exposure to atmospheric moisture.

As an option, tiles can be made from roofing iron, using sealant to lubricate the joints.

Sheets on the base are better fastened with screws.

facade insulation

As a rule, a two-layer container is usually used to insulate a ventilated facade, with the first layer of a horizontal strip of the same width with a heater.

This is a rail design that allows the plates to be installed in the spacer without additional installation.

A prerequisite for heaters is the installation of a windproof membrane, on which the second layer of the container with vertical rods is laid.

At this stage, the disc pitch will depend on the selected end material.

It should be noted that the insulating panels on wooden houses can be fixed with clinical umbrellas to the bottom of the wall.

Finally, a few words about the need to insulate wooden houses from the outside.

The fact is that the use of high-quality insulation and proper installation will allow you to correctly distribute the temperature load so that the walls can be stored in operation longer, but not ahead of time.

In addition, the use of insulation for external walls improves the permeability of facade steam, and the outer side of the material is porous, preventing premature wear of the walls.

As for the choice of insulation for the external insulation of wooden walls, her own preferences should be taken into account both in terms of production and aesthetic components.

Want to know more about this topic?

Check out these articles:

Features of the procedure

The most widespread is the external insulation of the house. However, if it is impossible to fulfill it, you have to resort to thermal insulation of the house, bath or cottage from the inside. It should be noted right away that as a result of these manipulations, the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room in most cases decreases. An exception is made only for a log cabin, which requires only interventional insulation.

With internal thermal insulation of a house made of any material, the humidity in the room always increases. It is clear that this negatively affects the walls, especially wooden ones. With improper thermal insulation, already in the first year of operation, the insulation will get wet and lose its thermal insulation properties, and wooden surfaces will begin to rot and become moldy.

To avoid such phenomena allows the mandatory installation of a vapor-permeable film and the creation of a powerful ventilation system.

When insulating a wooden house from the inside, it should be remembered that in terms of its effectiveness it cannot be compared with thermal insulation from the outside. This is due to the fact that the wall insulated from the inside does not accumulate heat, so the heat loss is 8-15%. Moreover, cut off from a warm room with a heat-insulating material, such a surface freezes faster.

Another important point is an integrated approach to isolation. You will have to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor with the ceiling. If the house has an unheated attic and basement, then it is more rational to give priority and main attention to these areas when insulating.

Enormous, up to 40%, losses of thermal energy fall on windows and doors. It is important not only to use modern double-glazed windows and door leafs, but also to make sure that they are installed correctly and tightly, to take care of insulation and protection of slopes.

A common mistake when insulating a wooden house from the inside is to keep small gaps between surfaces, usually between the floor and walls, walls and partitions, walls and ceiling. Such gaps are called "cold bridges", because heat escapes through them and cold air penetrates.

Characteristics of thermal insulation materials

For any thermal insulation material, the most important characteristic is the thermal conductivity. The lower it is, the less heat loss the house carries. It is measured in W / m × ° С, which means the amount of thermal energy leaving through the insulation per m2.

When choosing a heat-insulating material for wooden surfaces, attention should be paid to vapor permeability indicators. The fact is that the tree itself is a “breathing” material. It is able to take excess moisture from the air in the room, and in case of insufficient humidity - to give it away.

It is easy to imagine that when using a non-vapor-permeable insulation, moisture from wood will not find an outlet and will remain between the heat-insulating material and wood. This will be disastrous for both surfaces - a wet insulation has a high thermal conductivity, and the tree begins to rot.

Another important criterion for a heat insulator is moisture resistance. It is usually achieved by applying water repellents to the insulation and using a waterproofing film.

If we talk about interventional insulation, then it is impossible to close it with a waterproofing film, therefore the water resistance of the material, along with its thermal efficiency, comes to the fore when choosing a specific product. For indoor use, you should choose an environmentally friendly material. It is important that it belongs to the class of non-combustible or non-combustible, and also does not emit toxins when heated.

The biostability of a product directly affects its durability. If the insulation attracts insects or rodents, then in the course of their life, cracks and damage invariably appear in it, which causes the appearance of "cold bridges".

Among other primary characteristics are ease of installation, a variety of forms of execution and options for density, thickness, affordability.

What is the best way to insulate?

The most common option for warming a wooden house is mineral wool insulation. Usually, glass wool or stone wool is used to organize the heat-insulating layer. The latter surpasses glass wool in terms of technical characteristics, but most importantly, it is absolutely environmentally friendly.

Glass wool emits toxic compounds during operation, therefore it is not recommended for indoor use. In addition, it has the worst indicators of wet strength and fire resistance (although it has high fire-fighting characteristics - the combustion temperature is 400-500 degrees). Finally, it is prone to shrinkage and a decrease in thickness (and this leads to an increase in thermal conductivity); when laying, it requires the use of not only a respirator (like all mineral wool insulation), but also overalls.

In this regard, the use of stone or basalt wool is more attractive. The basis of the material is recycled rock, which is subjected to high-temperature heating (over 1300 degrees). Then thin fibers are isolated from the semi-liquid mass. In a chaotic manner, they are formed into layers, after which they are pressed and subjected to short-term exposure to high temperatures.

The result is a material of varying stiffness, produced in mats, rolls and tiles. Mats have the greatest strength, are suitable for heavily loaded structures, including floor insulation under a screed.

For wooden walls, in most cases, tiled basalt wool is enough; it also fits between the logs of the wooden floor. Roll products are convenient to use when insulating flat horizontal surfaces, such as a ceiling.

The thermal insulation properties are ensured by the location of the fibers, between which air bubbles accumulate in large volumes - the best heat insulator. The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material, depending on the density and brand, is 0.35-0.4 W/m×°C.

In addition to high thermal insulation, the material demonstrates good sound absorption performance. The sound insulation coefficient of impact noise reaches 38 dB, air - from 40 to 60 dB.

Unlike glass wool, basalt wool is characterized by low moisture absorption, which is on average 1%. In combination with high vapor permeability - 0.03 mg / (m × h × Pa), this allows you to protect the wood from decay and maintain a healthy atmosphere in the house. The melting point of stone wool is about 1000 degrees, so it is considered a non-combustible material. In addition, due to the natural composition, it is possible to achieve the environmental safety of basalt insulation.

Ecowool is also suitable for wall insulation. 80% of the material is cellulose chips treated with flame retardants and antiseptics, the rest is polymer resins, modifiers.

Ecowool refers to bulk materials, but it can also be sprayed onto the surface using special equipment. Despite the treatment with water repellents, the material requires a waterproofing layer. In terms of its thermal efficiency, it is inferior to stone wool.

Modern material for insulation - penofol, also suitable for internal insulation. It is a roll of foamed polyethylene (provides a thermal insulation effect) with a foil layer applied on one side (reflects thermal energy into the room). The presence of a metallized layer increases the strength and moisture resistance of the material, but makes it combustible (class G1).

The well-known polystyrene foam, which has similar thermal conductivity, is not recommended for use inside a wooden house. The fact is that the material "does not breathe." The tree, as you know, is characterized by the ability to take excess moisture from the room and give it away if necessary. In the presence of a polystyrene foam layer, the tree simply cannot get rid of excess moisture, which will lead to the onset of decay. In addition, polystyrene is characterized by toxicity and flammability, it often becomes a home for rodents.

If it is still impossible to refuse its use, preference should be given not to foam, but to extruded polystyrene foam. It is more environmentally friendly, has a higher fire safety.

Another durable and heat-efficient material is polyurethane foam (PPU), at first glance, is the optimal insulation. The low coefficient of thermal conductivity, as well as the features of application (it is sprayed onto the surface) not only reduce heat loss, but also eliminate the risk of "cold bridges". However, polyurethane foam does not "breathe" and if, in the case of using expanded polystyrene, it is possible to organize a vapor barrier between the wooden surface and the insulation, then when installing PPU, the creation of this layer is impossible. After 5-7 years, the walls under the PPU layer will begin to rot, and removing it is a rather laborious process.

For interventional insulation, special materials are used. They may be of natural or synthetic origin.

Organic interventional heaters, most often used for internal thermal insulation, include the following types of materials:

Linen insulation

Since ancient times, coarse flax fibers unsuitable for weaving have been used for these purposes. Today, tape insulation is also made on a plant basis and is called linen felt or linen. Differs in high density, vapor permeability (optimal for rooms with high humidity).

Jute

The insulation is based on processed fibers of the bark of an exotic tree of the linden family of the same name. It is characterized by a high content of resins in the composition, which ensures the strength and high antibacterial properties of jute. It protects not only the interventional space, but also the wooden surface itself. However, a large amount of resin leads to inelasticity of the insulation. Over time, it becomes harder and seems to dry out, decreases in volume, which leads to the appearance of cracks. The combination of jute with lnovatin allows to level this disadvantage.

Felt

Natural woolen material (sheep's wool), thanks to which unsurpassed heat and sound insulation characteristics are achieved. It is treated with water repellents and compounds that prevent the appearance of insects and microscopic life forms in the insulation.

Among materials of artificial origin, synthetic winterizer, polytherm (synthetic polyester-based felt) and PSUL are popular. It is noteworthy that the name "polyterm" originally denoted a certain material from a Finnish manufacturer. However, over time, the term has become a household word. Today, they designate both a specific manufacturer and a type of polyester insulation.

The abbreviation PSUL hides the following name - pre-compressed insulation. Its main ability is the ability to shrink and expand in accordance with linear changes in the dimensions of wood without losing its technical characteristics. In terms of thermal conductivity and moisture resistance, it exceeds similar values of natural heaters. At the same time, it is characterized by vapor permeability, biostability, environmental safety and fire resistance.

When thermal insulation of interventional seams, the use of such heaters as tow and mineral watts should be abandoned due to their lower moisture resistance.

Manufacturers Overview

When choosing a heater for a wooden house, it is worth giving preference to well-known, well-established brands.

The leading position among manufacturers is occupied by the company rockwool(Danish brand, which is also produced in 4 cities in Russia). The range is amazingly varied. Each section of the house has its own line of products. So, for walls, mineral wool insulation "Butts Light" and "Scandic" will be optimal. There are innovative mats for walls of different stiffness within the same mat, roll and slab analogues. The disadvantage is the high cost (on average 1500 - 6500 rubles / m2).

Not inferior in quality and products from Germany - tile and rolled mineral wool brands Knauf and Ursa. To insulate the room from the inside, it is enough to select materials with a density of 10-25 kg / m3. The price is within 1200 - 3000 rubles / m2.

Leading positions are also occupied by French mineral wool insulation in slabs, mats and rolls from the brand Isover. In the collections you can find both lightweight products (density 10-20 kg/m3) and rigid mats for frame houses (density 150-190 kg/m3). The cost is quite high - from 2000 to 4000 rubles / m2.

Mineral wool produced in Russia, for the most part, is not inferior to Western counterparts in terms of thermal efficiency, vapor permeability and fire resistance. However, it has a more affordable price. User reviews allow you to mark companies such as TechnoNikol, Izovol.

All the manufacturers mentioned above produce a type of thermal insulation wool with improved sound insulation performance.

Among the best manufacturers of ecowool, it is worth noting the firms Isofloc (Germany), Ekovilla and Termex (Finland), as well as domestic companies Equator, Ecowool Extra and Nanovata.

Finnish interventional insulation "Polyterm" is rightfully considered one of the most optimal for operation in domestic conditions. In addition to improved thermal insulation qualities, it is distinguished by the presence of special figured elements for decorating joints, corners, and transitions in the house.

A similar interventional thermal insulation material based on polyester is produced by the Russian brand "Avaterm". According to the manufacturer, due to the highest performance characteristics, the material is able to serve up to 100 years. Popular sealant brands are Weatherall and Neomid - Warm Seam.

How to choose?

When choosing a material, it is important that its density matches that required in a particular area of \u200b\u200bthe house. In some cases (absolutely in all mineral wool products) the thermal conductivity, rigidity, weight and bearing capacity of the material depend on the density.

Usually, manufacturers indicate not only the density, but also the recommended scope of the material.

Pay attention to the storage conditions of products. Mineral wool insulation should be stored in sealed original packaging, even a slight wetting of the product is unacceptable. Expanded polystyrene is afraid of sunlight, under their influence it begins to collapse.

Types of technology

Depending on the type of materials used, as well as the installation methods used, the following technologies for thermal insulation of a wooden house are distinguished:

Warm seam

It is used for interventional insulation of log houses, for sealing joints between foundation masonry and walls. Suitable for objects in which additional wall decoration from the inside is not provided. For insulation, special interventional insulators are used, as well as silicone sealants. The advantage of this method is the lower labor intensity and cost of the process, the ability to preserve the natural beauty and vapor permeability of wooden coatings.

Insulation on the crate

It is provided for in the presence of interior wall decoration, as well as insufficient thermal efficiency of the interventional insulation. Without fail, it requires vapor barrier and walls and additional ventilation of the house, fastening the frame, fixing the insulation, solid sheathing of the frame with plasterboard and attaching the finishing material to it. Such thermal insulation is effective, and in order to avoid condensation, a gap is maintained between the insulation and the skin for air circulation.

How to do it yourself?

Regardless of the technology used, the first prepare the walls. If you decide to do the work yourself, then you should start by cleaning them from dust, dirt, old coatings. If cracks are found, they are treated with a sealant, all irregularities are cleaned. Before insulation, you should also remove all communications from the walls, check the wiring. The preparatory stage is completed by applying an antiseptic primer and flame retardants to the surface.
Installation of vapor barrier film. It is attached to the entire surface with a gap of 10 cm and fixed with construction tape. If financial possibilities allow, it is better to use a more efficient vapor barrier membrane instead of a vapor barrier film. We remind you once again that vapor barrier is only one of the components of maintaining optimal humidity and a favorable microclimate in a wooden house. The second mandatory "component" is the ventilation system.

Creating a wooden crate, which is fixed to the walls of the house by means of brackets. The crate is assembled from wooden logs, which are pre-treated with flame retardants and antibacterial compounds. The step of the crate corresponds to the width of the insulation, and when using mineral wool products it can even be 1-2 cm narrower. The most common, as already noted, insulation for wooden walls is mineral wool. Its layers are placed between the elements of the crate and fixed with dowels.
Chipboard installation or drywall sheets as a facing layer. A small gap remains between the drywall sheets and the insulation layer, which provides better thermal insulation and allows the insulation to ventilate. If ecowool is used as a heat insulator, then plasterboard sheets are immediately attached to the crate, and ecowool is already poured into the resulting gap. Sheets of drywall are puttied in several layers with pre-treatment of each layer with fine sandpaper. After applying the finishing layer of putty, you can begin to fix the wall decorative coating - wallpapering, painting, etc.

Today on sale you can find mineral wool boards having different densities in thickness.

The part of the plate that is attached to the wall has a looser structure, the outer surface is more dense and rigid. Such materials are glued to the wall using special mixtures. Due to the high rigidity of the outer side of the insulation, it is possible to do without mounting the crate. The material is covered with glue, reinforcing fiberglass is attached to it, on top of which plaster is applied in several layers, and paint or decorative plaster composition is applied to it.

Wall cladding made of logs or timber looks somewhat different.

Immediately after the construction of the building, the primary insulation of the interventional gaps is carried out, which is also called caulking. To do this, a twisted interventional insulation is inserted into the gaps using a caulk or spatula. When using synthetic materials, a layer of sealant is applied over them.
A year later (it is after so much time that the house gives maximum shrinkage) re-caulking is carried out. First of all, the condition of the wooden surface itself is assessed. If chips and cracks are found, they are filled with the same elastic sealant. Next, check the quality of the insulation of the interventional seams. It is better if this is done not only "by eye", but also using a thermal imager.

If points of heat loss are found, they are re-caulked. If additional insulation of log walls is not provided, then the joints are re-treated with sealant, now for decorative purposes. Modern compositions are characterized by a richness of colors, so the user will be able to choose a mixture to match the logs. Another option to close the joints is to use jute braid, which has an attractive soft golden hue and looks harmonious with most types of wood.
If further thermal insulation of the walls is expected, then the steps described above are performed (priming, creating a vapor barrier layer, mounting the frame and fixing the insulation, fixing drywall, finishing). Insulation of the ceiling also implies the creation of a crate, under which a waterproofing coating is laid, for example, glassine. Further, with the help of self-tapping screws and special glue, the insulation is fixed to the ceiling. The next step is plasterboard ceiling lining and finishing.

If there is a second floor, the ceiling is insulated. For interfloor overlapping, materials of increased rigidity are required.

If the house has an attic of an unexploited type, then bulk materials (expanded clay, ecowool) can be used to insulate it. For heated attics and mansards, special basalt heaters of increased rigidity are produced. Insulation of maximum rigidity (from 150 kg / m3) is required for a flat roof.

When insulating the floor first of all, it should be leveled, overlapped and with a slight (up to 10 cm) "creep" on the walls of the waterproofing membrane. After that, lay wooden logs in increments of no more than 50 cm. Mineral wool (or expanded polystyrene) is laid between the logs. The insulation layer is closed with a PVC membrane, on top of which the flooring is mounted (usually sheets of chipboard or plywood).

Experts recommend carefully calculating the thickness of the material, since the indicators of its thermal efficiency depend on this. If the insulation layer in the house is insufficient, it will not be possible to achieve the optimum temperature. An excessively thick layer is not only unjustified financial costs, but also an additional load on the supporting structures, as well as a change in the location of the “dew point”.

The latter term denotes the boundary where the moisture leaving the room in the form of vapor turns into a liquid. Ideally, this should occur outside the insulation, however, if its thickness is incorrectly calculated and the installation technology is violated, the “dew point” may be inside the insulation.

Wrong is the insulation of a wooden house from the inside and outside. The surface of the wood is between 2 vapor barrier layers, which disrupts the natural ventilation of the material and leads to the onset of putrefactive processes.

Professionals strongly recommend using external insulation as more efficient and correct for the operation of a wooden house. Insulation from the inside is an extreme measure. Thermal insulation work should be carried out in the warm season, in dry weather, since during this period the walls are as dry as possible. If you plan to insulate a newly built house, then you should wait a year. This is due to the fact that wooden objects shrink.

When installing the crate, make sure that its step corresponds to the dimensions of not only the insulation, but also the drywall sheets. Otherwise, you will have to fill additional rails - an extra load on the frame and an increase in labor intensity. The best option is to select sheets of insulation and drywall of similar dimensions.

Despite the cheapness of foam plastic, as well as its low heat transfer, refuse to insulate wooden walls with this material.

It has low vapor permeability, which will lead to rotting of the walls, an increase in humidity in the house, the appearance of condensation on the walls and mold on the finishing material.
It emits styrene, which is hazardous to health, and therefore in some European countries there is a ban on the use of expanded polystyrene for interior decoration.
It is a combustible material that releases toxins when the temperature rises. When using foam in a wooden structure, you can create a real fire trap.

The sealant used for interventional insulation must be elastic and able to compress and expand during shrinkage and thermal expansion of wood. For indoor use, an acrylic-based composition will be optimal. If you need a stronger sealant, then acrylic with the addition of polyurethane foam is suitable. An important point - such a sealant cannot act as an independent insulation.