Lining houses with red bricks. Brick house decoration

The modern building materials market offers a huge selection of facing bricks. Many owners of private houses often think about giving their home a more noble look. But before deciding on the brickwork of the facade, it is necessary to find out whether there is a real opportunity to carry out these works.

When to Avoid Brick Cladding

When finishing the facade with brick, a good foundation is required. If your house has a weak foundation, then it is better to abandon the idea of \u200b\u200ba brick facade and use other wall cladding suggestions.

When erecting a brick facade, it should be borne in mind that the facade must go under the existing roof. Otherwise, you will have to dismantle the old roof and build a new roof.

The reliability of the finished walls is questioned. Facing brickwork will be attached to the finished walls. And if there is any doubt that the load-bearing wall will withstand the additional load, then it is better to abandon the idea of \u200b\u200ba brick facade.

Problems may arise when trying to clad a 2- or 3-story building. There are options when the second or third floor may be structurally different from the first. This can lead to additional costs and complexity of cladding. It is much easier to clad the first floor with bricks, and then veneer the subsequent ones with other materials.

If the above reasons are not fundamental for you, and you decide to finish the facade of your house with bricks, then you should be aware of the existing types of bricks.

There are two main types of bricks. Hollow (possesses good heat-insulating properties) and full-bodied (more durable).

Types of facing bricks

Ceramic

The raw material for its manufacture is clay of different varieties. Some components are added to the clay, which serve to improve the quality.

It is worth noting that even when using clay from the same quarry, the color of bricks from different batches can vary significantly.

Clinker

Raw materials are refractory grades of clay. To give a certain color to the mixture, various pigments are added. Roasting is carried out at a temperature of about 1300 degrees, which gives the bricks greater strength.

hyperpressed

It consists mainly of waste from other industries (limestone, shell rock, natural stone waste, slag).

To bind the components, cement and various pigments are added to give certain colors. Production takes place using very high pressure.

Silicate

It is made from quartz sand, lime, pigments and mineral additives. But it is practically not used for facing the facade of buildings.

Preparatory work

When buying bricks for finishing, you should buy goods from one batch. Otherwise, you can get a completely different shade. After calculating the required amount, add 10-15% of the amount to protect yourself from a possible fight or chipping.

A very important component of masonry is the solution. Usually, cement grade M300 or M400 and sifted sand are used to make the mortar.

For a good quality of the prepared solution, water containing a minimum amount of salts should be used. The prepared solution in density should resemble thick sour cream.

Before starting the construction of a brick facade, it is possible to insulate the facade of a brick house. To do this, use mineral wool.

But it is worth noting that if you decide to make insulation, then do not forget to take care of the ventilation gap. In any case, he must be present. But when installing a heater, there are some peculiarities.

Sequencing

At the beginning of the construction of the cladding, the first row should be laid around the entire building. Then five rows of bricks should be laid in the corners and a twine is pulled between the two corners, which will serve as a beacon when each row is laid horizontally. After the construction of five rows, the procedure is repeated.

Processing of seams when laying the facade is carried out after each row. In case of accidental contact with the mortar on the brick, it should be removed immediately. After drying, this process will take much longer.

Facing the house ends when one row remains to the roof. This allows ventilation to function normally. At the time of laying the masonry, the masonry should be fastened to the load-bearing wall. To do this, use a metal bar or a special anchor.

In past years, the quality of bricks left much to be desired, and over time, houses built from low-quality bricks lost their appearance. To hide the flaws in the construction, we can advise you to paint the brick facade.

But it is worth noting that the brick does not have a uniform porosity, and the paint will be absorbed into the brick in different ways. Therefore, every 3-4 years you will have to paint the facade.

Photo of a brick facade

Building a house from one brick in our climate is not the best idea: its thermal conductivity is too high, which is why the walls must be thick. But using it as a finishing material is already more economically justified: facing the house with bricks, with proper insulation, will help save on heating, and give the building a “capital” appearance. If the walls are made of foam block or other light and warm building blocks, then such a finish will also be windproof. Wooden houses are also covered with bricks, but in this case there are some peculiarities: it is necessary to ensure the removal of vapors from the wood, otherwise mold, fungus and expensive repairs with a complete overhaul of the finish.

What brick to use

Facing bricks are produced using different technologies, due to which it has different characteristics and prices:

Ceramic. Of all the finishing, it is the most inexpensive. Of the minuses, high hygroscopicity can be called: 6-15%, depending on the technology and batch. When water gets into the pores, it expands when it freezes, causing destruction, the brick begins to crumble. Even a special finishing one, in which the bed (the part that turns out to be outside) is specially protected at the factories. Exit - after laying, cover the wall with a hydrophobic composition. Only those that do not form a vapor barrier film. When choosing, pay attention to this: excess moisture must be removed. Frost resistance of ceramic facing bricks is 25-75 cycles (how many times it tolerates freezing / freezing without deterioration in quality). The higher this figure, the higher the price. This is explained by the high production costs.
Hyperpressed or non-fired. This type of facing brick is obtained not by firing, but by pressing. It no longer contains clay, but lime with various fillers and pigments. The possibility of using pigments allows you to get a wide range of colors. The front surface is often non-linear, imitating wild stone. Looks decorative. But such a non-linearity threatens with delamination: an uneven surface, water flows into the pores more abundantly, and freezes in frosts. This is treated in the same way as in the case of ceramics: hydrophobic impregnation. Frost resistance of high-quality non-fired bricks is declared by manufacturers from 75 to 150 cycles.
Clinker. This brick is also ceramic, but a special technology gives it very high strength and density. A denser material absorbs water much worse. This is good for operation, but when laying it leads to difficulties: in order for the wall not to “float”, it is necessary to put it on a hard, low-plastic mortar, and it is more difficult to work with it. Another disadvantage that limits the wide distribution of a material with excellent characteristics: compared to previous materials, it is expensive: prices are 50-150% higher, depending on the manufacturer. Frost resistance of clinker is from 100 to 150 cycles. Clinker cladding of a house with bricks is an expensive pleasure, but the most attractive in appearance.
Silicate. The cheapest, but also the most "quickly deteriorating" of facing bricks: its frost resistance is 25-50 cycles. It conducts heat better. Not much, but still: the average thermal conductivity of ceramic is 0.16, silicate is 0.18. In addition, it is heavier: on average, the weight of ceramics is 2.4 kg, silicate of the same size is 3 kg. More weight requires a more powerful foundation and the price gain (silicate is cheaper) is not so big. If we take into account that heating costs will also be higher, then the gain is doubtful at all. It is advisable to overlay the house with silicate brick in warm regions. In the north, this is completely unprofitable.
Silicate brick house cladding is the most inexpensive, but, unfortunately, the most short-lived type of finish.

Choosing the type of brick is far from everything. It is also necessary to pay attention to the size and shape of the holes. A solid finishing brick is rarely used: it costs more, weighs more. On average, voids occupy about 28%, but they are large and small. With equal characteristics, give preference to bricks with small holes: the mortar will not flow into them. This will reduce the consumption of masonry mortar, and increase the strength of the masonry.

If you decide to veneer the house with hyper-pressed brick, it should be made no earlier than 15-20 days ago. During this time, it gains basic strength (about 80%) and it can already be safely transported and loaded.

Please note that during storage, the brick packaging should not be exposed to water. This is especially true if you are going to leave it for the winter.

How to overlay a wooden house (timbered, log, frame) with bricks

Most of the difficulties arise when bricking a wooden house: materials have very different characteristics, it is not easy to make a good bunch of them. The whole secret here is the need for a ventilation gap between the cladding and the insulation layer, which is usually stuffed on a wooden wall. A windproof membrane is laid over the insulation. A prerequisite is that it must be vapor-permeable (Izospan A, Isospan AS, Tyvek HouseRap, Megaizol SD, etc.). Only under such conditions will there be normal humidity in the room and rot and fungus will not develop between the cladding and the wooden wall.

Instead of windproofing, you can protect the surface of the insulation with fiberglass or fiberglass. With a sufficient thickness of the wooden walls, the thermal insulation layer is simply absent, the wind insulation and the ventilation gap remain.

The ventilation gap must be at least 60 mm. It stretches from the very bottom of the wall - it starts after the base - and to the top. To ensure the flow of air in the first row, ventilation ducts are made through which air enters. Outlets are arranged under the roof in the eaves. Ventilation area 75 cm 2 for every 20 m 2 of the wall. The products in the bottom row can be made in several ways:

put on its side a brick with through holes;
partially fill the side seams with mortar (when laying the mortar, lay a ruler, then remove it);
make two or three holes and install gratings.

About what kind of insulation to use. The most acceptable option is mineral wool in mats or rolls. The use of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is undesirable: they do not conduct steam. This will lead to the fact that the wood will rot, and the humidity in the rooms will be higher than normal.

Another important point: it is possible to overlay a wooden house with bricks only after the main shrinkage of the log house has passed. And this is at least 1.5-2 years. In this sense, it is easier with old wooden houses: the main processes have passed in them.

Pros and cons of a wooden house lined with bricks

The combination of materials so different in all characteristics is a complex and completely ambiguous matter. Of the positive points can be identified:

There are enough negatives:

All in all, not an ideal solution. If the house is still being planned, think a few times. Maybe it's better to build and then overlay them with bricks. These materials are much better matched and complement each other's qualities. It is worth lining a wooden house with brick if the house is old, the wood has darkened, it is necessary to give it a more attractive look.

Wall cladding technology

First, the wood is treated with a protective impregnation for outdoor use. Then a crate of planed timber (also impregnated) is stuffed. The dimensions of the beam depend on the required thickness of the heat-insulating layer. Usually, for Central Russia, the thickness of basalt wool is needed on the order of 50 mm, for more northern regions from 100 to 150 mm. But specifically, everything is considered depending on the thickness of the wall (from timber or logs) and the brick chosen for facing.

The insulation is laid very tightly, without gaps: the crate is stuffed taking into account its width. The distance between the bars should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation. So the material will fit with effort. It will fit snugly to the crate, which minimizes the formation of cold bridges.

An example of brick wall cladding of a wooden and frame house

A windproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation. It must necessarily be vapor-permeable, and if the vapor permeability is one-sided, then the removal of moisture is necessary from the room. Fasten the membrane with staples to the crate. Next, leave a gap for ventilation of at least 60 mm and put a wall of facing bricks.

How to do it right

There are a few subtleties that you need to know. The house is usually lined with half a brick. Without support, the wall turns out to be shaky, especially with large areas. To make it stand firmly, it is tied to a wooden wall. There are two ways:

Single dressings should be located over the entire surface of the wall. There are different recommendations - at a distance of about 50 cm from one another or 4 pieces per square meter.

If you are going to brick the house with your own hands, there may be problems with the horizontal and vertical laying. The following technique can help, allowing you to simultaneously control all directions:

In the corners of the house under the roof and above the plinth, long pins are hammered horizontally. They should protrude from the wall to a distance greater than the entire thickness of the finish.
At one corner, to the upper pin at a distance corresponding to the outer edge of the masonry, a wire is tied and lowered down, movably fixed on the lower nail.
Its verticality is checked and set with a plumb line, and it is rigidly fixed.
Also, at the same distance, a vertical wire is tied at the other end of the wall.
A horizontal cord is tied between two stretched strings. It will serve as a guide when laying: it can be moved up as the rows are laid. Only each time it is necessary to check the horizontalness with a level.

All of the above applies to frame houses. They also require a ventilation gap device. The situation is similar: on the outside there is a material that conducts moisture much worse than those located inside. Only wire or strips of tin for dressing are attached in this case to the racks of the frame.

Reinforce or not

In general, reinforcement makes the wall more durable and reliable. Therefore, it is better to reinforce. But this complicates and slows down the masonry, which leads to an increase in the cost of work (if the craftsmen were hired).

If you do it yourself, then you need to lay rows with reinforcement approximately every 5th row. As reinforcement, a special mesh is laid with a cell of 50-50 mm or two longitudinal bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm. At the same time, the size of the seam, whether in a row with reinforcement or without, should be the same.

Facing the house with a brick "live" filmed on video, laying technique "under the rod". The seams are beautiful, but water flows into them, which is then absorbed by the brick. Therefore, in this form, the seams cannot be left. They must be filled with mortar and embroidered in the same plane with the surface of the brick. Then the absorption of water during bad weather will be significantly reduced, and the "life" of the brick wall cladding will be much longer. The laying process itself was demonstrated correctly: the mortar is laid neatly, drops that have fallen on the surface are immediately rubbed off.

Facing the house with bricks made of aerated concrete, foam concrete and gas silicate

The vapor permeability of cellular concrete is also higher than that of bricks. That is, the situation is exactly the same: inside the room there is a material that better removes vapors. Therefore, to ensure a normal microclimate in the room and a long service life, a ventilation gap is required between the brickwork and the wall and the foam blocks.

If you overlay a house made of aerated concrete (foam concrete, gas silicate) with bricks without a gap, its service life will decrease by about 60%: condensate will accumulate at the border of the two materials. At low temperatures, frozen moisture will destroy the shell of the bubbles, gradually destroying the entire material and significantly degrading its performance.

Options for cladding an aerated concrete house with bricks and their characteristics

Additional heaters are used very rarely, if they are still needed, all the rules are the same as for the lining of a wooden house: basalt wool, protected by wind insulation.

The value of the ventilation gap is from 60 to 150 mm. The number of connections between two walls: at least 3 pieces per square meter of masonry, their cross section is at least 5 mm 2 per 1 m 2. For connection, screw or stainless nails with a length of at least 120 mm can be used. They are not hammered perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle of at least 45 °. You can use perforated galvanized strips, which are nailed to building blocks on one side, and the other end is inserted into the brickwork, where it is bent at an angle. Note: ties should not be laid in the seams of the masonry of the main wall. Only nailed to the front surface of the blocks.

The best wall cladding made of aerated concrete and foam concrete is brick with a ventilation gap

Slag or slag house

Brick cladding in the case of buildings using slag is used more often when cracks creep along the walls. This happens mainly when the slag has exhausted its resource and began to crumble. On average, its service life is 50 years, it is reduced if the humidity of the walls was increased.

Brick cladding of a cinder block (slag-filled) house will only delay the inevitable: it will slow down the destruction, but will not stop it. The length of the delay depends on the condition of the material and the measures taken. On average, he is 8-15 years old. It is hardly possible to do without consulting a specialist: the price of an error is too high.

In most cases, it is recommended to build a frame around the house, on which to transfer part of the load of the floor and roof, to carry out waterproofing work. One of which is the external protection of walls from atmospheric precipitation with the help of brick cladding. Brick is selected with the lowest water absorption. For greater protection, the masonry can be impregnated with a hydrophobic compound (only not creating a vapor barrier film). Penetrating hydrophobic impregnation of the main wall will not be superfluous. To do this, you can use impregnations such as "Penetron" and analogues. They will simultaneously strengthen the material and significantly reduce water saturation.

Watch the video about the practice of facing old buildings with bricks.

About the choice of suppliers and prices

Prices for the same materials are very different depending on the region. In order to correctly assess the situation, you need to conduct your own market research: call or visit the largest suppliers, look at offers in the region on the network. During the call, you need to get technical data, find out the prices. Then compare the characteristics of bricks, compare prices.

What can be advised: do not buy too cheap materials. If the difference from the average market price is 15-20%, most likely, these are last year's remnants of not the most successful batch. Otherwise, look at the ratio of price and declared characteristics.

Average prices in Moscow are as follows:

silicate facing brick - 11-21 rubles / piece;
ceramic facing - 18-35 rubles / piece (corpulent 45-65 rubles / piece);
hyperpressed non-firing - 25-31 rubles / piece;
clinker - 27-40 rubles / piece.

After choosing several possible suppliers, see their product in person. Smooth edges, uniform color, no cracks or any defects - that's what you should see.

About the size of the party. It is advisable to buy the entire volume of cladding material at once. This will save you about 10-15%. some suppliers of large lots offer to bring in dumping norms directly from the factory. It's cheaper and eliminates additional overload, which means less combat.

The advantage of buying in bulk is that there will most likely be one batch, which guarantees color uniformity. In any case, the facing of the house with bricks is carried out from several packages at the same time. So even slightly different shades will not create color spots.

Facing or face brick is the most powerful outer shell for a private house.

Of all the options that are used for this purpose, only brick can protect the house from any kind of mechanical, atmospheric, natural or temperature influences.

Moreover, it is able to outlive the house much, moreover, to remain quite suitable for reuse.

These qualities are unattainable for any type of cladding; they have been appreciated by builders or finishers for more than a hundred years.

The appearance of new materials does not push the traditional, time-tested facing brick to a secondary place, cannot compete with it.

In this article, we will show you options for finishing the facade with facing bricks.

According to general features, the front brick is:

Hollow. The briquette has cavities that contribute to the preservation of heat, as well as significantly reducing the weight of the cladding.
full bodied. There are no cavities, the briquette is solid, heavier. Such a structure is less successful, since it makes the cladding heavier and creates an additional load on the base. The production of full-bodied facing bricks is determined only by technology, if possible, a hollow material is made.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that facing brick is a collective name for different types of material that are united by a general purpose or functions performed.

There are such types:

Ceramic. This is the most common red brick found on most facades. It is not necessarily red, there are quite a few color options., but they are all based on the natural shade of fired clay. There are also white samples made from special grades of clay, there are black samples that have undergone enhanced processing during firing in an oxygen-free mode. The material is the most accessible, relatively inexpensive and proven.

Clinker. This type of brick is closest to ceramic, it is also made from clay using a similar technique. The difference is in the firing mode - the clinker is heated to 1900 °, against 1200-1400 ° for ceramic material. Such processing brings clay almost to the melting point, completely burns out all organic matter and sinters the material into a monolithic block. It rings when tapped, the strength is comparable to the parameters of stone, and the durability exceeds the service life of buildings. It is completely immune to the effects of water, fire, temperature changes are not terrible for him. Among the shortcomings - the high cost and poor sound insulation.

Silicate. White briquette, looks very good in masonry. The facade, finished with such a brick, acquires an elegant and festive look. Produced from sand with the addition of lime and water with heat treatment in autoclaves. The material absorbs water well, which is the only, but completely unacceptable property for lining. Recently, because of this, the use of silicate material as an external cladding is being completed, it is used only for construction purposes.

hyperpressed. This type is made from cement with the addition of limestone. No heating is done during manufacture, but high pressure curing is used. Because of this, the hyperpressed brick is made solid, there are no hollow samples. The briquette has precise dimensions, exemplary edge geometry, which makes perfect laying possible.. The working face can be smooth or textured, imitating the surface of a chipped stone. The color of the material can be very different, pigment additives allow you to get any shades. The weight is large, the load from it is quite significant, should be taken into account in advance.

Any type of material has a curly variety - specific samples that have a geometric shape for decorating facades. Architectural elements, corners, columns, decorative inserts and other details of the facade are finished with such bricks.

Methods and types of masonry

The technique of laying facing bricks has its own specifics and differs in many respects from the methods of laying ordinary material.

NOTE!

The cladding is made in one layer, which complicates the task and puts forward significant requirements for the strength and stability of the canvas.

There are a large number of types (schemes) of masonry, the main task of which is to create an aesthetically attractive surface, the formation of a certain geometric pattern that repeats along the entire length of the canvas or creates a single decorative element.

To fully understand masonry schemes, you must first decide on the terminology. The side working face of the block is called "spoon". End, the smallest in area - "poke". Accordingly, the spoon row is laid out with the side, spoon side out. Bonded row - a row of blocks laid with end faces. The upper or lower parts, on which voids are visible, are called beds.

There are three main types of masonry:

Straight. Masonry in which one type of material is used. At the same time, any alternation of the position of the briquette is possible, laying with a spoon or bond side, alternation of rows or individual bricks with different positions of the edges, etc.
Decorative. This type of masonry provides for the presence of two or more types of bricks (usually different colors are used, but there may be other options). Various geometric patterns, rosettes are laid out, elements of the facade are made out. This method is more complicated, since it needs to control the correct placement of bricks of the desired color, respect for geometry, correct counting of rows, etc. To perform such masonry, you must first create a diagram indicating all the parameters of the canvas to facilitate control or work.
artistic. This is a more complex type of decorative masonry, using three-dimensional patterns - bricks protruding from a common plane, forming geometric shapes of varying degrees of complexity. the height of different bricks can be different, which allows you to create figures of a high degree of complexity and expressiveness.

Many masonry schemes have been developed over many centuries.

Most commonly used:

Spoon in half a brick. The most common scheme, in which all rows are spoon, each subsequent one is laid with an offset of half the length of the brick.
Cross masonry. Rows of spoon and stick briquettes alternate.
Gothic. The alternation of spoon and bonder bricks in a row, between the rows a shift by a quarter of the length of the block, bonder bricks are arranged in a snake one above the other.
Chain. In a row, two spoon and one bond block alternate. The rows are shifted by a quarter of the block length.
Flemish. Alternating bonder and spoon bricks in a row, shifting rows by a quarter of a brick. Tychkovye are located exactly in the middle of the lower or upper spoon.
Dutch. A row of bonded briquettes is replaced by a row of alternating spoon briquettes with bonded ones.

These types of masonry are the most common; in practice, other equally interesting, decoratively valuable options can be used.

The combination of facing bricks with other materials

Laying of facing bricks can be combined with the use of other facing materials. Such a combination can decorate the facade, create an original spectacular pattern.. Different materials emphasize the qualities of each other, the use of contrasting colors makes the decoration more expressive and bright.

Most often, a combination of different types of bricks is used, since in this way it is easiest to combine materials due to the same dimensions.

Bundles of the following types can be used:

Ceramic with glazed.
Ceramic with hyperpressed (with a textured edge).
Ceramic and colored (or engobed).

Other combinations are possible depending on the main facing material.

In addition, the combination of facing bricks and textured plaster looks spectacular, for example, when creating a geometric figure on a canvas in a different plane.

Textured plaster creates an independent element, or serves as a background for a three-dimensional pattern lined with facing bricks - there are many options, and they all depend only on the capabilities and imagination of the builder.

Photos of modern one-story and two-story houses with facing bricks:

Color range of facing bricks

There are a lot of color options - from white to black. The bulk of the material has a color close to the natural color of fired clay - red, brown, yellowish-beige, etc. At the same time, there are color samples - green, red, pink, etc.

There are engobed materials - with a thin layer of colored clay applied, which, when fired, gives the working faces a pleasant matte color of various shades. A glazed type of material is also made - with a layer of colored glaze applied to the spoon face, which becomes hard and very durable when fired.

Combination of bricks of different colors

Different shades of material are used in many cases. The so-called. Bavarian masonry, which combines up to 7-12 different shades and creates a pleasant motley design from randomly arranged bricks of different colors.

NOTE!

A combination of light and dark samples (or other contrasting combinations) is also used, which are designed to more clearly and visually highlight the pattern, the formation of geometric patterns on the surface of the masonry.

Conclusion

The decorative properties of facing bricks, which are not always very high in themselves, are favorably emphasized and enhanced by using various laying methods, combinations of different materials or color shades.

The canvas is assembled from many relatively small elements, which allows you to create a kind of mosaic, to form geometric and three-dimensional figures or elements on the surface of the facade. There can be a lot of options, they are limited only by the capabilities of the bricklayer.

All types of masonry can be used to obtain a high external effect, embellishing the surface, emphasizing the style and personality of its owner.

In contact with

Brick is reliable and durable. This material looks attractive and presentable. But brick walls have one significant drawback: thermal conductivity. Even a relatively warm ceramic material conducts heat well and does not adequately protect the building from the cold. In our climate, it will be necessary to build walls 64-90 cm thick to provide sufficient thermal resistance. A more rational option would be to manufacture the outer walls of the building from other materials with insulation and cladding. How to lay a house with facing bricks? It is not difficult if you know the technology and the nuances of work.

A house lined with brick looks solid and presentable, it is protected from wind and other unpleasant weather phenomena. This finishing option is used both for houses made of lightweight concrete and for wooden houses.

How to choose a facing brick for a house

Before laying a house with a brick, you should carefully choose the material. It is important to select the cladding not only by cost, but also by technical characteristics and properties.

Most often, ceramic bricks are used in construction. This material has fairly good (compared to other types) thermal insulation performance. The disadvantage in this case will be high hygroscopicity. The technology involves the use of both ordinary ordinary material and special front material.

Ceramic brick is simple, durable and unpretentious in operation

In the first case, it is strongly recommended to treat the outer surface after laying with a hydrophobic composition. The front brick does not need such processing. The composition for processing is chosen with sufficient vapor permeability. This is especially important when decorating a wooden house with a brick. It is required that the impregnation does not form a film on the surface that prevents the walls from being permeable to air and steam. Which brick to choose for frost resistance? The brand must be at least F35 according to the standards, and not below F50 according to the recommendations of the builders.

Another popular option is silicate material. It is the cheapest, but does not differ in durability. Facing a house with a brick of this type conducts heat well and absorbs moisture. Most often, silicate is heavier than ceramic. This option is not recommended when finishing a log house (we also include a frame house and a log house).

Silicate brick is less durable than ceramic, but for 20-30 years you can not remember the problem

For do-it-yourself brick finishing, you can use clinker material. It is specially designed for house cladding, therefore it has low moisture permeability and high strength. Clinker finish looks attractive, but this pleasure is not cheap: prices are on average 50-150% higher.

Undoubtedly, clinker brick is the best choice among all options. You can choose almost any color and shades

How to overlay a wooden house with bricks

Brick and wood have too different characteristics, so certain difficulties may arise in the process of work. Facing a wooden house with brick must necessarily provide for sufficient ventilation of the main part of the wall. Otherwise, the wood will begin to rot or become moldy.
Before you overlay the house with facing bricks, you should carefully examine the wall cake. Three-layer walls with brick cladding in this case will include:

wooden bearing part;
vapor barrier;
insulation;
waterproofing and wind protection;
ventilation gap min. 50-60 mm;
brick lining.

1 - ventilation layer; 2 - fixing the cladding to the wall; 3 - facing brick; 4 - add. insulation with a windproof membrane; 5 - vapor barrier; 6 - finishing; 7 - thermal insulation; 9 - log wall

It is important not to confuse vapor barrier and waterproofing. The latter must be permeable to steam so that it freely leaves the insulation and bricks into the ventilation gap. It is recommended to use modern vapor-diffusion windproof membranes.

To ensure free movement of air, when bricking a wooden house, it is necessary to provide air vents in the lower part and outlets in the upper part. Mineral wool is recommended as thermal insulation. It is characterized by low cost, ease of installation and good air permeability.

Before you properly overlay a wooden house with bricks, you must definitely wait for the walls to shrink. This process can take a couple of years, so the easiest way is to overlay the old house.

Advantages and disadvantages

In construction, it is very difficult to combine materials of different properties. In this case, there are always nuances and negative aspects. Finishing the facade with brick for a wooden structure has three disadvantages:

reduced ventilation, the likelihood of moisture accumulation in the insulation;
different shrinkage of wall parts, which does not allow to rigidly connect the cladding and the main wall;
the high mass of brick compared to wood (more than 3 times) makes it necessary to build more powerful and expensive foundations.

In general, we can say that it is better to finish the old house with bricks. For new construction, it is recommended to consider other more economical and efficient options.

But the technology has its advantages:

improvement of thermal performance (especially when using ceramics);
reducing the level of fire danger;
reliable and durable protection of wood from negative atmospheric phenomena.

Technology

Facing the facade of the house with brick is carried out after treating the wood with an antiseptic. The composition for impregnation should be chosen special - for outdoor work. It will protect the wall from mold, fungus and other dangerous microorganisms. Next, a vapor barrier is attached to the wall on a construction stapler. Installation is carried out with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

A vapor barrier located on the inside of the wall will prevent moisture vapor from entering the insulation from the room.

Facing the facade with brick begins with the installation of the crate. The dimensions of the frame bars depend on the required thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the insulation can be chosen approximately, based on the recommendations of neighbors or the Internet, but it is better to use a special calculation. With the help of a fairly simple Teremok program, even a non-professional can make a heat engineering calculation. You only need to know the thickness of the wooden wall and its thermal conductivity, as well as the thermal conductivity of the selected insulation. Brick (and all layers after the ventilation gap) are not taken into account in the calculation.

The frame bar is attached to the walls with screws or nails. Next, the house needs to be sheathed with insulation. Mineral wool is laid tightly between the crate. To do this, the distance between the bars should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation.

On top of the insulation, waterproofing and wind protection are fixed. Fastening is carried out on a construction stapler. After such preparation, they proceed directly to laying the house with bricks.

The hydro-windproof membrane protects the insulation from wind and moisture, but does not prevent excess water vapor from escaping from the wall to the outside.

The thickness of a brick verst is usually 120 mm. This is not enough to ensure stability, so the wall must be connected to the main part of the outer structure.

This can be done in two ways:

Fasteners are located in the places where the supporting frame passes

Finishing installation technology is also relevant for frame buildings. The only difference is that the connections between the wall and the outer materials are attached to the frame studs. In all cases, it is necessary to veneer taking into account the ventilation gap.

Reinforcement

To brick a building, it is recommended to provide for reinforcement of the finish. To increase strength and rigidity, a wire mesh with a diameter of 3-4 mm and cells of 50x50 mm is used. The mesh is laid in the seams between the horizontal rows. The frequency depends on the brick:

lining the building with a single brick (65 mm high) - every 5 rows;
one and a half (height 88 mm) - every 4 rows.

The dimensions of the seams with and without reinforcement should be the same. For control, the grid on one side is slightly taken out of the masonry. This option increases reliability, but increases the cost and complexity of the work.

How to clad a house made of lightweight concrete

A lined house in this case can be built from aerated concrete, gas silicate, foam concrete, cinder blocks, expanded clay concrete. A house made of facing bricks is less breathable than the listed materials. For this reason, as in the previous case, it is necessary to provide for a ventilation gap.

The installation method is very similar to a wooden house. The only difference is that you can use rigid connections between the wall and the cladding. The minimum number of links is 3 pcs. per 1 sq.m. Ties are not allowed to be laid in the seams of the main wall, they are nailed to the surface.

When building a building from fragile cinder blocks, it is recommended to build a frame that will take on the load from floors and other building structures. In this case, the walls will be self-supporting. Finishing the house with facing bricks is attached to the cinder block very carefully.

Your house, lined with brick - it's beautiful and reliable. But when carrying out work, certain recommendations must be followed.