How to grow a beautiful hydrangea. Hydrangea: planting, pruning and care in the open field

If you are looking for a garden flower with royal appeal, hydrangea flowers are truly stunning. Heavy clusters of flowers cover this shrub in summer and spring. While growing hydrangeas may seem daunting at first glance, hydrangeas can grow quite easily when properly planted and cared for.

In landscape design, a spectacular and luxurious Far Eastern shrub - panicle hydrangea - is in great demand. Caring for it, and observing the basic rules of maintenance, will decorate your site with a scattering of delicate conical inflorescences.

Features of hydrangea

Hydrangea paniculata is a representative of the Hortensia family and consists of many varieties. It grows in the form of a bush or tree, in some cases it reaches 10 meters in height. Thanks to the efforts of breeders, varieties of this species are annually replenished with new worthy samples.

Features of the panicle hydrangea:

• delicate flowers, up to 3 cm in diameter, collected in lush, fragrant elliptical inflorescences;
• the color range of inflorescences varies depending on the variety - from snow-white to pale pink or light green;
• inflorescence length - about 30 cm;
• inflorescence width - up to 20 cm;
• branches are upright, spreading;
• leaves are finely toothed, opposite.

In the second year after planting, the shoots of the hydrangea become hard, after another 1 year the plant is completely ready for flowering. Until this moment, all flowers from the seedling should be removed. The plant is frost-resistant, tolerates a drop in temperature to -26 ° C. With proper care, it has lived in one place for more than 50 years.

How to plant a hydrangea correctly

As with most things, learning how to grow your garden hydrangea can save you time and money. By choosing the right place, properly preparing the soil and planting correctly, you will increase the chances of enjoying the luxurious huge flowers of your panicle hydrangea for many years.

• It is recommended to plant hydrangea in early spring so that it grows stronger and takes root until the first autumn frosts. When planting in autumn, there is a high probability that the seedling will not survive the winter. The best time to board is early morning or late evening. The cooler part of the day will provide better protection from heat stress. Keep the seedlings well watered until they are planted.

• Knowing where to grow hydrangea bushes is an important first step. Many people grow hydrangeas next to a house or fence. These are great spots because hydrangeas love the warm morning sun, but they don't like the heat in the afternoon. The best place to plant hydrangeas is in a sheltered location with morning sun and afternoon sun. And often this place is located on the north or south side of your home.

• Avoid planting directly under trees as this can lead to competition for water and nutrients. Good neighbors for hydrangeas are small plants with fleshy roots: boxwood or. In addition, the hydrangea must be protected from the wind, because strong winds can break branches and destroy flowers.

• When choosing a place for a hydrangea, consider its preferences for the composition of the soil. The plant loves acidic loams or fertile clay soil. Avoid planting in sandy soil, otherwise the plant will not develop well. Acidify the soil before placing the seedling in its permanent place. For this, rotten remnants of sawdust, pine needles or peat are suitable.

• Illumination should be medium, partial shade is better. The scorching sun has a negative effect on the plant: the bush stops developing, the inflorescences become smaller, the flowers quickly wither in the sun. Watering regularly in the morning can help prevent wilting. But some varieties of hydrangeas simply cannot cope with excessive heat.

• It doesn't matter how well you water them - they will wilt a little at noon. A thick layer of mulch can help retain moisture and keep the soil cool. You don't need to worry: your hydrangea will come to life as soon as the evening chill comes. Better to let it wither a little at noon than you drown it with excessive watering.

• Do not plant the hydrangea in a place where deoxidizers have been introduced into the soil: wood ash, lime or crushed dolomite. In such soil, the shrub will develop poorly, and in the worst case, it will die.

• Plant the hydrangea in a wide hole with a diameter of at least 70 cm.
• Pour water into it and add fertilizers (mineral or organic).
• Place the seedling in the hole, without deepening the root collar, straighten the roots.
• Fill the hole with soil, lightly tamp, pour abundantly with water.
• There should be a space of at least 1.5 meters between flowering bushes.
• You can place the seedlings closer to each other, but as they grow, the excess will have to be removed.

Features of planting a purchased hydrangea seedling

For planting hydrangeas, you can buy planting material. In this case, get ready for the fact that the seedling will not take root well in the open field after greenhouse conditions.

• water the seedling abundantly for 2-3 days before planting;
• when transferring a plant from a pot to open ground, do not remove an old earthen lump from the root;
• pour a mixture of garden soil with store soil into the planting hole, otherwise it will be difficult for the plant to adapt to the new soil composition;
• for 2 months after planting, fertilize the seedling with organic and mineral fertilizers every 2 weeks.

You can grow a seedling yourself using the cuttings method. Such seed will be more hardy than store seed.

How to propagate a garden hydrangea.

The simplest methods of growing hydrangeas are propagation by layering, dividing the bush and cuttings.

Propagation of hydrangea by layering suitable for those who have an adult plant on the site:

• with the arrival of spring, press a strong 1-year-old shoot to the ground;
• dig in the middle part of the shoot to the ground;
• the top of the shoot should rise 20 cm above ground level;
• water the cuttings as needed, cover from frost for the winter;
• after 1-1.5 years, separate the layers from the uterine bush, and transplant to a new place.

Dividing a hydrangea bush it is used if there is an old bush on the site that needs to be dug up. In spring or autumn, remove the plant from the ground, divide it vertically along the root into several parts, so that renewal buds are present on each of them. Root the resulting seedlings in a new place immediately.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings. You can cut them from May to June:

• choose a sturdy one-year-old shoot, and cut out the upper part from it with three pairs of buds;
• cut off 2 bottom sheets;
• dip the cut into a growth-promoting preparation;
• 2/3 immerse the cutting in a mixture of peat and sand (2 to 1);
• cover with thick film or glass;
• make sure that the scorching sun does not fall on the handle;
• spray the cuttings every day, moisten the soil mixture;
• for the winter, remove the container with the seedling in a cool place;
• when it gets warmer, plant the cutting on the site.

At the time of planting, the cutting should give young shoots. If flowering appears, then pluck it until next year. As soon as the seedling gets stronger and blooms, it is considered winter-hardy. Before that, cover it with a tarp or burlap for the winter.

Simple rules for caring for hydrangea outdoors.

For lush flowering and active growth, hydrangea needs appropriate care: systematic watering, feeding and pruning. Young bushes that have not yet bloomed require winter shelter. In regions with cold climates, old bushes are also required to be insulated.

Water the shrub more often in summer, as it does not react badly to drought. Cover the land in the area of ​​the bush with peat or loosen it after each watering.

Trimming rules:

1. Before the onset of cold weather, cut off wilted inflorescences, improperly growing and dry stems. For good flowering in the future, it is enough to leave up to 12 strong branches.
2. In early spring, remove some of the upper buds from the shoots (2 for old, 4 for young bushes).
3. For aged and weak shrubs, prune rejuvenating at ground level. As a rule, the bush is completely restored in 2-3 years.

Thanks to archaeologists, it became known that hydrangea already existed at least forty thousand years ago. In Asia, this plant has been cultivated for a long time, and Europeans began to show interest in it only since 1900, although hydrangea was brought to Europe from Japan almost a century earlier. Now this shrub is found everywhere.

Hydrangea has a unique ability to accumulate aluminum in itself, and then the inflorescences on the bushes turn blue or blue.

• How to grow hydrangea from seeds?
• How to plant a shrub?
• How to care for hydrangea throughout the season?

You will find answers to these and other questions in our article.

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Planting and caring for hydrangea

• Landing: in the fall, sowing seeds for seedlings, followed by planting seedlings in open ground in early spring two years later. In the south, seedlings can be planted in the ground in the fall.
• Bloom: from early summer to late autumn.
• Lighting: partial shade in the southern area, bright sunlight in the middle lane and more northern regions.
• The soil: rich and moist, lime-free (pH 5.0).
• Watering: weekly and plentiful, water consumption - 15 to 20 liters per plant.
• Top dressing: at the beginning of spring - with a solution of urea, after flowering - with a complex mineral fertilizer.
• Cropping: annually from 3-4 years. Paniculate and tree-like - in March-April.
• Reproduction: seeds, dividing the bush, grafting, layering and green cuttings.
• Pests: spider mites.
• Diseases: peronosporosis, chlorosis.

Read more about growing hydrangeas below.

Plant hydrangea (Latin Hydrangea) belongs to the genus of flowering plants of the Hortensia family, which, according to various sources, includes from 30 to 80 species of shrubs, lianas and small trees. In nature, hydrangea can most often be found in East and South Asia - in Japan and China. It also grows in the Far East and North America. The hydrangea flower got its name in honor of the princess of the Holy Roman Empire, and the Latin name Hydrangea was given to the plant by taxonomy scientists for its exorbitant hygrophilia (hydrangea translates as "a vessel of water"). The Japanese call hydrangea "adzisai", which in Japanese means "flower - purple sun". Of the large variety of hydrangea species in room culture, only garden hydrangea, or large-leaved, compact forms, is grown, all other types and varieties of hydrangeas in our latitudes are grown in gardens.

Hydrangea flowers - description

Hydrangea flowers in natural conditions are shrubs up to 3 m high, medium-sized trees and lianas, capable of climbing tree trunks to a height of up to 30 m.In addition, depending on the species, they can be both evergreen and deciduous plants, and in our climate growers prefer to grow deciduous. Hydrangea leaves are usually large, opposite, oval with a sharp top, often with jagged edges and noticeable venation. Hydrangea blooms from spring to frost in large spherical inflorescences, corymbose or paniculate, consisting of two types of flowers: small fertile (fertile), usually located in the middle of the inflorescence, and large sterile (sterile), blooming at the edges. There are, however, species in which all the flowers in the inflorescence are fertile.

Most hydrangeas bloom with white flowers, but such a species, for example, a large-leaved hydrangea (or large-leaved hydrangea), blooms not only with white and cream, but also red, blue, lilac and pink flowers, and the color directly depends on the pH of the soil (level pH): on neutral soil, hydrangeas grow with beige and cream flowers, on alkaline - with lilac or pink, on acidic - with blue due to the aluminum contained in the soil, which the plant is able to absorb. Hydrangea fruit is a 2-5-chamber capsule with small seeds. Sometimes plants from the close genus Schizophragmatic are confused with hydrangea, but you should know that the so-called petiolate hydrangea is actually a schizophragmatic.

Growing hydrangea - features

Well, now we can talk about the features of growing hydrangeas in the garden. So:

• the color of large-leaved hydrangea flowers depends on the pH of the soil in which it grows: in neutral soil, the flowers will be white or cream in color, in acidic - blue or blue, in neutral - pink or lilac. Therefore, to create multi-colored bushes, it is enough to change the acidity of the soil under each of them;
• hydrangea is very moisture-loving, so take watering the plant very seriously;
• bright light is very important for hydrangea, but in the direct sun the delicate petals quickly fade, so it is best to plant it where there will be light partial shade in the sultry midday;
• the most important factor in caring for a hydrangea after a watering regime is timely correct pruning;
• do not overfeed hydrangeas with organic matter, otherwise they, growing rapidly, will almost certainly not bloom;
• even cold-resistant varieties of hydrangea need a warm shelter for the winter, but if your beauty is frozen, do not despair: most likely, it will recover during the growing season;
• hydrangea is very rarely affected by diseases or pests.

Planting hydrangeas

Hydrangea from seed

By the seed method (generative) species hydrangeas successfully reproduce. The method of seed propagation is also used for the purpose of a selection experiment. How to grow hydrangea from seeds? Very simple, but you will need time.

Sowing hydrangea seeds is carried out in the fall: in a nutritious loose substrate, consisting of a mixture of leaf and peat soil with river sand in a ratio of 4: 2: 1, sow hydrangea seeds, which are then covered with a light layer of the same mixture and moistened with a spray bottle. The container is covered with glass or film, which is periodically removed to ventilate the crops and moisten the substrate, which should be slightly damp at all times. The temperature required for germination is 14-20 ºC. As soon as shoots appear (this usually happens after a month and a half), the glass can be removed.

You need to dive hydrangea seedlings twice: the first time in the developmental stage of cotyledon leaves, the second - in May. Moreover, during the second dive, each seedling is planted in a separate pot with a diameter of 7 cm.After the second dive, young hydrangeas for hardening are exposed to fresh air during the day in a place where direct sunlight, rain moisture and drafts do not reach. In the evening, the seedlings are brought into the room.

At home, hydrangeas are grown for two years, in winter - in a bright, cool room, and in summer, exposing them to fresh air if possible and removing emerging buds so as not to weaken young plants by flowering.

Hydrangea seedlings

Two years later, in early spring, and if you live in a region with a cold climate, then in the fall, the grown seedlings are planted in open ground in a permanent place. When choosing a site for a hydrangea, keep in mind that all species of this plant, without exception, love sunlight, but species such as rough hydrangea, ground cover, tree-like and Sargent feel well in light shade. The soil is preferable neutral or slightly acidic, loose and rich in organic matter. You can acidify alkaline soil with high-moor peat or Acid Plus acidifier.

Make sure that there are no shrubs or trees with the same shallow root system as the hydrangea, because in the future between them there may be a struggle for moisture and nutrients in the upper soil layer. Planting the hydrangea begins by digging a hole, which should be twice the size of the earthen ball of the hydrangea seedling. Add peat, mineral and organic fertilizers mixed with the soil into the finished pit. Remove the seedling together with the lump from the pot, gently shake off the soil, straighten the roots, lower it into the hole and cover with soil mixed with compost, so that the root ball protrudes slightly above the level of the plot. Apply soil, water the plant and mulch the area with needles or bark.

Hydrangea care in the garden

How to care for hydrangea

Caring for a hydrangea in the garden is not difficult at all, but there are mandatory points that must be followed strictly. The most important condition for caring for a hydrangea is properly organized watering - it should be abundant, approximately 30-50 liters of warm, settled water for each adult plant twice a week in hot weather. If the soil is mulched with peat, then it can be watered less often, since the peat remains moist for a long time.

To improve aeration of the roots, it is necessary to loosen the soil around the bush to a depth of about 5 cm several times during the spring and summer period. Do not forget to cut off the faded shoots.

Fertilizing hydrangea

If you want the hydrangea to bloom in full force, you need to carry out a comprehensive feeding at least twice a year - before and after the hydrangea bloom. At the beginning of spring, the hydrangea is fed with a solution of 20 g of urea per bucket of water on the basis that three buckets of such a solution will be needed to feed an adult plant. After flowering, the hydrangea is fed with complex mineral fertilizers.

Throughout the summer, you can fertilize the hydrangea from time to time with slurry, but observe the measure so as not to overfeed the plant, otherwise large inflorescences with their weight can break fragile branches. Just in case, tie up the shoots to prevent this from happening.

Pruning hydrangea

Hydrangeas that have reached three to four years of age are subject to pruning. Those species that bloom on the shoots of the current year are pruned in early spring, before the buds open and the sap begins to flow, so that the plant does not sap and does not die. But pruning too early makes the cuttings obtained after it unsuitable for rooting. Therefore, you need to guess the time for pruning when the buds just swell a little and take on a "live" appearance.

• The tree hydrangea is cut first - it wakes up earlier than other species. Its long shoots are cut at a height of three to four buds, the cut parts are cut into cuttings.
• Paniculata hydrangea is cut much more carefully: last year's shoots are only a third, but beautiful cuttings are obtained from these segments.
• Large-leaved hydrangea is practically not cut off, only slightly rejuvenated, removing every fourth shoot every year, especially if it grows inside the bush, and, of course, dead or broken branches.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings

From the shoots you got after trimming, cut pieces with two nodes so that there is an oblique cut under the lower node and a straight cut above the upper one. There should be a distance of 2-3 cm from the node to the cut. Plant the cuttings in a greenhouse container with peat-sandy soil, immersing the lower part in the soil by 3 cm, water well. Then cover the greenhouse with a polyethylene "house".

Spray the cuttings with a sprayer to keep the soil moist at all times. As soon as the cuttings take root, they are planted in open ground in a permanent place, where they will have time to grow up enough until autumn to courageously survive the coming winter.

Hydrangea after flowering

When the hydrangea has faded, it is time to prepare the plant for winter. Young seedlings growing in pots are transferred indoors, and in garden types of hydrangeas, wilted inflorescences are removed so that suddenly wet snow does not stick on them and break the fragile branches of the plant. In addition, you will need to huddle the base of the hydrangea bushes high and mulch the area in which they grow in order to reliably protect their superficial root system for the winter.

The most cold-resistant of hydrangeas are paniculate and ground cover. Their shoots are completely lignified by the fall, so they can more easily endure the winter cold even without shelter, if you do not live in a cold climate. It can withstand a non-severe winter without shelter and the hydrangea is tree-like.

Hydrangea wintering

Preparing hydrangeas for winter

In warm snowy winters, even thermophilic large-leaved and serrated hydrangeas can hibernate without a man-made shelter, but no one will tell you for sure to what temperature the thermometer column can drop in winter and how high the snow cover will be in the coming winter. Believing in assumptions and making mistakes means ruining your garden, so it is better to be vigilant and, perhaps, even distrustful of forecasts, but sleep peacefully on frosty nights, knowing that your plants are also fast asleep under their warm shelter.

So how and when to shelter hydrangeas for the winter? It is better to do this after the first frost, during October. Very young bushes are simply covered with dry earth to the top. Older bushes are bent to the ground and covered with lutrasil or roofing material, which are pressed down with bricks so that the wind does not rip them off. Adult bushes will require a lot of effort from you: the bush is carefully tied and wrapped with lutrasil or spunbond. Then a frame in the form of a cylinder made of a metal mesh is erected around it at a distance of 20-25 cm from the bush, and the frame should be 10 cm higher than the plant. The space between the mesh and the hydrangea is filled with dry foliage, which is more than enough in the gardens at this time of the year. In the spring, in April, the frame with foliage can be removed, and when a stable above-zero temperature is established, the spunbond is also removed.

Hydrangea in winter

Whether or not to shelter your hydrangeas for the winter is up to you. We offer shelter options in the event of a harsh, and most importantly, snowless winter. If there is no severe frost in your area, then the shelter may be symbolic, and if your hydrangea also belongs to winter-hardy species, then it may not need to be protected from frost. But if the hydrangea in your garden does not belong to the cold-resistant species, and the winters in your area are unpredictable, use our advice in the fall to sleep peacefully in the winter, to see the hydrangea wake up to life in the spring, and to admire its incomparable beautiful flowering in the summer. ...

Types and varieties of hydrangea

Before planting a hydrangea in your garden, you need to know which of its types is right for you, since each of them has its own requirements in agricultural technology. Growing hydrangea paniculata, for example, in some important points (pruning, preparing for winter) differs from growing hydrangea tree or large-leaved, therefore, the more you know about the species, the easier it will be for you to care for any of them. So...

Hydrangea tree (Hydrangea arborescens)

A species widespread in the gardens of our climatic zone. Treelike hydrangea is a shrub that grows from one to three meters in height. Inflorescences are formed at the ends of annual shoots, at the beginning of flowering, the flowers have a greenish tint, but when they bloom, they turn white or cream.

Popular garden forms are Invisible Spirit - pink hydrangea, Sterilis - white hydrangea, characterized by abundant flowering, Annabelle hydrangea and Grandiflora hydrangea with large snow-white inflorescences (just do not confuse this tree hydrangea variety with panicle hydrangea variety of the same name).

Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata)

In nature, it grows as a shrub or tree from two to five meters high. In garden culture, it is one of the most demanded species. In one place, panicle hydrangea can grow for more than forty years. Its shoots woody quickly, which makes this species resistant to cold. Inflorescences are formed at the tops of the shoots of the current year, so the flowering is very abundant, although the buds that appear already at the end of June open only by August or September. The inflorescences of hydrangea are paniculate pyramidal, the flowers at the very beginning of flowering have a greenish tint, then they turn white, towards autumn they acquire a pink color, then brick and at the end of flowering they become greenish again.

The most famous garden forms: Grandiflora, hydrangea Vanilla Freise, Kuisu, Tardiva.

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

Which is called garden, and is most often grown in the garden, but there are compact varieties that can be grown in containers on terraces and even indoors. This species has dense foliage of bright green color, the shoots of the current year are herbaceous, therefore the plant has a very low cold resistance. However, the buds for the shoots of the current year, at the ends of which the inflorescences bloom, are laid in the previous fall, therefore it is believed that the large-leaved hydrangea blooms on last year's shoots. The shape of the inflorescences is usually umbellate, viburnum, which is usually called Japanese, or hemispherical. The color of the flowers depends on the pH level of the soil.

Interesting, for example, are the following varieties of recently bred cold-resistant: Endless Summer - blue hydrangea if it grows on acidic soil, and lilac if it grows on neutral soil; Renata Steinger - blue hydrangea; double-flowered cultivar Romance and Express.

Hydrangea oakleaf (Hydrangea quercifolia)

A very attractive look, but, unfortunately, it is not at all winter-hardy, therefore it requires thorough insulation for the winter. It makes an impression not only with lush flowering, but also with leaves of a beautiful shape, unusual for a hydrangea. An oak-leaved hydrangea grows up to two meters in height, has paniculate inflorescences 10-30 cm long with white at the beginning of flowering, and eventually purple flowers that bloom in June-July.

Ground cover hydrangea (Hydrangea heteromalla)

Or hydrangea variegated - a frost-resistant species, reaching a height of two to three meters in nature. In culture, it is often used to form a standard form. Dark green leaves 20 cm long have a smooth surface and a woolly, pubescent underside, inflorescences are loose, corymbose, at first white, but turning pink by the end of flowering. Blooms in late June or early July. Particularly popular is Bretschneider's ground cover hydrangea, which blooms profusely with large milky-white inflorescences.

Hydrangea, blooming with luxurious bright inflorescences, can grow both in the garden and indoors. Nursing and growing homemade varieties is, of course, different from growing hydrangeas in the garden. Our publication will tell you in detail about the rules for keeping hydrangeas in the room.

A beauty loving water

The Latin name for hydrangea - hydrangea - literally translates as "a vessel with water". This name was given to this plant for a reason: hydrangea loves water very much and does not tolerate drought at all.

Hydrangea is a deciduous plant that sheds its leaves for the winter and retires.

Main characteristics of hydrangea:

• there are about 80 species and a large number of varieties of hydrangea;
• types of hydrangeas are divided into liana-like, tree-like and shrub;
• some species are frost-resistant;
• garden hydrangeas grow up to three meters in height, and lianas even up to thirty;
• hydrangeas live for about 20 years.

When grown at home, they use large-leaved hydrangea, which breeders use to create new hybrids and varieties of this spectacular plant.

Indoor hydrangeas can grow up to 1.5 meters in size. New indoor cultivars usually range in height from 50 to 100 cm.

• hydrangea leaves serrated, ovoid with a sharp tip, 10-15 cm in length. In autumn they turn red and fall off by winter;
• inflorescences up to 35 cm in diameter, consisting of large sepals, which can be monochromatic, of different color or change it as it develops and depending on the acidity of the soil;
• small petals are located inside the sepals;
• flowers can be sterile or fruiting. The seeds are very small;
• the shape of the flowers can be of four types: spherical, umbellate, pineal and racemose;
• sepals of different types and varieties have a varied shape, can be double;
• hydrangea blooms from early summer to late autumn;
• The number of inflorescences on hydrangeas increases as the plant ages.

When grown at home, hydrangea is quite whimsical, but if you follow the rules of care, it will certainly delight you with its flowering.

The color range of hydrangeas is diverse, and the color of the flowers depends on the acidity of the soil. Because of this property, hydrangea is called a plant chameleon. There are varieties that do not change their color from the chemical composition of the soil.

Flower buds of an ordinary large-leaved hydrangea are formed at the tips of last year's shoots, so pruning is done only on dried, extra shoots, without touching the tops with flower buds.

Now new varieties have been bred, in which buds with future flowers are formed on the shoots of both the past and this year. These are called remontant.

Hydrangea is a shade-tolerant plant. Moreover, its flowers do not tolerate bright sunlight.

Under natural conditions, hydrangea grows in Asia, America, China and Japan. Several species grow in Russia in the Far East.

Hydrangea does not tolerate intense heat, therefore it is planted in the garden only in shady places. It requires high humidity.

Hydrangea leaves can be used in tea. The roots, branches and inflorescences of hydrangea paniculate and tree-like are used for medicinal purposes and make various medicinal preparations from them.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea by flower color

There are a huge number of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea. Let's consider a few of the most popular ones, dividing them by color categories.

Light

Sister Teresa (Soeur Therese):

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• white inflorescences with a delicate lilac-pink tint by the end of flowering change color to greenish-pink;
• blooms until September on the shoots of last year;
• dense, spreading shrub.

Mme E. Mouillere:

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• flowers, pure white at the beginning of flowering, then take on light pink or light blue hues;
• blooms profusely on the shoots of the past and this year until October;
• the leaves are narrower than those of other varieties.

Blue

Early Blue:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• blue inflorescences with blue-violet hues initially have a greenish coloration;
• blooms profusely until October on the shoots of the previous and current year;
• has a strong root system and a compact bush.

Nikko Blue:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are bright blue, to maintain color, an acid reaction of the soil is needed at 5.5-7.0 pH;
• abundant flowering until September - October on the shoots of the current and last year;
• fast-growing, medium-sized shrub.

Pink

Ramars Mars or Mars:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are pink-crimson with a white edging, which turns green over time;
• compact bush.

Miss Saori:

• diameter of inflorescences 18 cm;
• inflorescences are dull white with a pink border, retain their original color regardless of the acidity of the soil;
• blooms until September on the shoots of the current and previous year;
• dark green foliage has a purple tint.

You & me Love:

• stem height 100 cm;
• blooms continuously from May to September;
• in alkaline soil it is colored pink. in sour, with a high aluminum content - in blue;
• leaves are resistant to powdery mildew;
• frost resistance -29 o C.

Red

Admiration:

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• flowers are bright red;
• abundant flowering in October on the shoots of the last year;
• the bush has a dense crown.

Multicolor

Bavaria:

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• lime-colored flowers with a violet-blue center and a white border;
• profuse flowering until October on last year's shoots;
• compact bush.

Hot Red:

• diameter of inflorescences 15 cm;
• red flowers with high acidity of the soil have a purple tint;
• blooms until October on last year's shoots;
• lush bush, does not lie down from massive inflorescences.

Schloss Wackerbarth:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are pink with a blue center and green edging, green at the beginning of flowering;
• flowering on the shoots of last year until October-early November;
• flowers are decorated with light stamens.

Huge inflorescences, colorful petals, graceful stamens - all this is the Schloss Wackerbart variety.

Often beginners are looking for a variety of "hydrangea mix". You should know that there is no such variety, this phrase means multi-colored hydrangeas in the composition or in the assortment of the store.

Grown houses in a hydrangea pot in the photo

The hydrangea plant is named after a princess of the Roman Empire named Hydrangea.
Archaeological excavations in the northern regions of America have shown that hydrangea grew 40 thousand years ago. Large-leaved hydrangea can be successfully grown both in the garden and on the home windowsill. since they found out about this plant after the first French round-the-world expedition There are about 80 species and a huge number of varieties and hybrids of hydrangea The owner of this hydrangea is a clear original

Hydrangea care at home

From too bright sunny color, hydrangea inflorescences fade and become stained. Therefore, it should be placed on the east or west windows. Hydrangea will grow well away from the window, especially from the southern one. For flowering, diffused light hydrangea is enough.

To prevent the stems from breaking, inflorescences that are too heavy sometimes need to be supported using branch supports.

The hydrangea thrives best outdoors. Therefore, at positive temperatures, it is advisable to keep it on the balcony, veranda or take it out into the garden. If this is not possible, then regularly ventilate the room, and at high temperatures place it on the northern windows.

Try to take the hydrangea out into the fresh air as often as possible.

Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature, like drafts.

Hydrangea needs moist air:

• it is necessary to spray the hydrangea in the morning, especially in dry hot weather;
• in the heat, be sure to place vessels with water next to it;
• a good humidification option: put the flower in a container filled with water on a two-centimeter layer of expanded clay or coarse perlite.

Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, so the most important condition for growing it is to monitor soil moisture. It should always be slightly damp.

When watering, use soft water, as the plant is badly affected by excess lime. To do this, you can boil tap water, wait for the sediment to accumulate at the bottom, and drain the clean water.

From spring to autumn, it is necessary to water the hydrangea abundantly and not remove the water from the pan. To retain moisture, mulch must be laid on top of the soil. It is best to use coniferous litter or chopped pine bark for this.

What materials are used as mulch:

• coniferous litter;
• chopped pine bark;
• coniferous sawdust;
• high-moor peat;
• sphagnum moss.

In the fall, at the beginning of leaf fall, watering is reduced.

In winter, watering is needed only in order not to dry out the earthy clod and plant roots. When the first new leaves appear, watering begins to increase.

Hydrangea also does not tolerate stagnant water, it needs good drainage.

It is necessary to acidify the soil once or twice a month during watering. You can use lemon juice, citric acid for this.

• juice consumption: five drops per liter of water;
• citric acid consumption: powder at the tip of a knife per liter of water.

It is necessary to feed the hydrangea from the beginning of spring to the end of summer 2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas or for flowering plants. Fertilizers for hydrangeas contain mainly magnesium and iron.

For better and faster growth of the green mass of the plant, you can feed it with nitrogen fertilizers during the growth period - before flowering.

Dissolve granular nitrogen fertilizers in warm water and water the plant once a week.

The norm of nitrogen in the form of carbamide (urea): half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

For spraying, it is convenient to use ammonia (ammonia), this will also be an additional prevention of pests. They can also water the plant. It is enough to spray once a week. Ammonia use rate: half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

What indicators of acidity and alkalinity of the soil change the color of hydrangea

If you want to maintain or change the color of your hydrangea, then there are special feeding for this.

You can use other methods: adding aluminum sulfate or a little liming with dolomite flour or ash. These drugs are used, necessarily controlling the acidity of the soil.

If the pH is 7.0, the soil is neutral, if the value is lower, the soil is acidic, with a higher value, the soil is alkaline.

• acidic soil (Ph 3–6) with a high aluminum content maintains blue, blue and purple shades of inflorescences;
• neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 6-7) maintains light, white colors;
• more alkaline soil (pH 7–8) with lower aluminum content gives pink and red color.

The optimum acidity for hydrangeas is in the range of 5.5–6.0 pH. Hydrangea does not tolerate strongly alkaline (calcareous) soils! With a strongly alkaline reaction of the soil, the hydrangea cannot absorb iron, it develops chlorosis of the leaves, which turn yellow and fall off.

To determine acidity, you need to buy a special device.

Soil alkalinity indicators:

• slightly alkaline: pH 7–8;
• medium alkaline: pH 8–8.5;
• strongly alkaline: pH 8.5 and above.

Do not allow alkalinity to rise above 8 pH.

Acidity is maintained by coniferous litter, pine bark, high moor peat, watering with potassium permanganate and citric acid (or lemon juice).

Alkalinity supports the presence of lime (chalk, dolomite flour) and ash in the soil.

Acidity should be measured a few days after depositing funds. If it "falls short" of the desired value, the application should be repeated.

Inflorescences of red color can be "repainted" in lilac and purple shades, change the pink color to blue. Moreover, if you water only one side of the bush with the solution, you will get a very beautiful transition of colors.

When using such products, make sure that they do not get on the leaves and flowers, and do not exceed the dosage!

Dosages of drugs that change the chemical composition of the soil:

• To change the pink color to blue, red to purple-lilac, you need to increase the concentration of aluminum in the soil: 1 tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per 1 liter of water.
• We change the blue color to pink, stopping feeding with aluminum and increasing the alkaline reaction of the soil: 1 teaspoon of dolomite flour evenly dig into the soil and monitor the alkalinity, which should be within 7–8 pH. If the pH is less than 7, add ash to the soil (1-2 tablespoons). 1-2 times a month when watering, add potassium permanganate to the water: 5-7 grains per liter of water.

Don't expect instant changes. The color can only begin to change from the second season. If the color of the hydrangea still does not change, you will have to replace the soil.

Pruning: Do's and Don'ts

If the variety is growing slowly, pruning should be done infrequently. Accordingly, if the growth of hydrangea is fast, then you will have to prune more often.

Do not forget that hydrangea inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots, so you cannot cut them off. You can cut off shoots for better branching either from only planted cuttings (in the second year after planting), or from remontant hydrangeas.

If your hydrangea gives an abundance of shoots, then you can cut off the extra ones, even with flowers, they stand in the water for a long time. Perhaps they will take root and give life to new plants.

Faded inflorescences are cut as they dry above the uppermost bud.

Hydrangea pruning principles:

• if the plant is less than 4 years old, only dry shoots need to be cut;
• old, thickened and small shoots are cut off on hydrangeas;
• shoots for thinning are cut in the spring, and sick and dry shoots can be cut off in the fall;
• do not water the plant for a couple of days before pruning.

How to prune a hydrangea:

1. Select dry, excess or too small shoots and trim them with sharp, sterile scissors or pruning shears.
2. Treat the slices with turmeric, herbs or activated charcoal powder.
3. You can water the hydrangea one day after pruning, when the cuts are a little dry.

The plant should have no more than eight main trunks. 4–5 branches are left on each trunk.

Dormant period

At the beginning of the leaf fall, so that the roots do not rot, watering the hydrangea is reduced. The plant no longer consumes as much water as during growth and flowering, so it is important to monitor the condition of the soil. It should be about the same as wet commercial soil when you first open the package.

After dropping hydrangea leaves, it is necessary to ensure the temperature is less than 10 ° C.

The hydrangea winters best at a temperature of + 5–8 o C. Therefore, the best option is to take the plant pot to a dry basement. We must not forget to water the ground a little at this time in order to prevent the death of the root system.

If you don't have a basement, you should place the hydrangea in the coolest place in your house or apartment. She does not need light at this time.

At the very beginning of spring, the hydrangea should be brought into the house, first placing it in the coolest but brightest place. When it grows leaves, you can move the plant to a warmer place.

Table: how to care for hydrangea

Diseases and Treatment

Hydrangeas rarely get sick. But with improper care and weakening of immunity, the plant can be affected by fungal or bacterial diseases, and be attacked by pests.

The main problems when growing hydrangeas:

• if the hydrangea is kept in too humid and shaded conditions, then powdery mildew may form on the plant (fungal disease);
• in very dry and hot weather (more than + 27 ° C), hydrangea can be affected by spider mites;
• in extreme heat (more than +30 ° C), hydrangea can shed its leaves; if the sun is too strong, the leaves begin to turn yellow; the flowers dry out and wither;
• on alkaline soils (excess lime, an indicator of more than 8 pH), hydrangea forms chlorosis - yellowing of the leaves;
• with insufficient air and soil moisture, the hydrangea stops blooming, the leaves dry out, the roots can dry out;
• with poor drainage and abundant watering, the roots begin to rot, as a result fungal diseases are formed.

Table: hydrangea problems and their solution

To prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, add a bio-agent based on beneficial bacteria to the soil when watering 1-2 times a month: Gamair, Rizoplan (Planriz), Alirin-B.

Video: diseases and pests of hydrangea

Planting (transplanting) hydrangea: soil selection, pot and instructions

It is not possible to grow a luxurious plant in all types of soil. The soil for hydrangeas should be loose, sour and nutritious. You can prepare the soil yourself: sod land 2 parts, coniferous litter 1 part, peat 1 part, chopped pine bark 0.5 parts, sand 0.5 parts.

From ready-made purchased soils, you can use soils for hydrangeas, azaleas, rhododendrons, conifers.

Hydrangea loves water very much, but in the swamp it will also feel bad, the roots will begin to rot and fungal diseases will appear. Therefore, when planting, it is necessary to provide it with good drainage.

Drainage includes holes in the bottom of the pot and a 1–2 cm layer of expanded clay, pebbles or coarse perlite.

The pot needs to be changed as the root system grows. Do not plant the plant in a pot that is too spacious. When the roots have completely filled the space, then repot the plant in a slightly larger pot. Hydrangea roots grow shallow, but densely.

On average, hydrangeas need to be replanted every 3-4 years in early spring.

For planting, prepare:

• new pot;
• land;
• drainage;
• mulch: coniferous litter, chopped coniferous bark, coniferous sawdust or peat (sphagnum can also be used);
• boiled water with the addition of potassium permanganate until a slightly pink color (for watering);
• spray bottle with warm clean water (for spraying leaves).

Landing rules:

• When planting, roots that are too long can be trimmed with sterile scissors;
• The root collar can be deepened by 2-3 cm;
• The soil is not dried out during transplantation, part of the land remains on the roots;
• After planting, the earth must be tamped so that there are no voids between the roots (this can lead to their drying out);
• When planting, the roots should be spread down and not bend;
• After transplanting, some of the leaves may fall off the hydrangea - this is normal.

Planting stages

1. We take out the plant from the pot, carefully separating the earthen lump from the walls with a knife.

We shake off excess soil from the roots and examine them, if necessary, cut off excess, dry and diseased ones.

2. We pour drainage and a little earth on the bottom of the pot, put a hydrangea in the center and cover the roots with earth 2-3 cm above the root collar.
3. We tamp the earth, if necessary, fill up the soil and spill it well. Spray the leaves with warm water.
4. Lay a 1-1.5 cm layer of mulch on top.

A few days after planting, the hydrangea needs to be fed with complex fertilizer.

Video: planting and growing a potted hydrangea

Reproduction of room hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated at home by cuttings, dividing a bush or seeds. The easiest and most effective way is grafting. Hydrangea propagated in this way blooms in the second year after planting. Rooting of cuttings occurs easily both in soil and in water.

Cuttings can be made from late May to September.

Cuttings in the ground

For grafting you need to prepare:

• sterile secateurs;
• the drug Kornevin;
• planting substrate (clean sand or infertile soil);
• small low pot;
• shelter (cellophane, cut plastic bottle, etc.);
• a spray bottle with warm water;
• turmeric or charcoal powder for processing slices.

For cuttings, it is better to choose green, non-lignified shoots.

Step-by-step process of grafting:

1. Cut off the selected green stalk.
2. We make a cut under the lower kidney.
3. We also cut off part of the branch above the upper bud.
4. Cut off the excess lower leaves.
5. Cut the remaining leaves by about half to reduce water evaporation
6. We dip the lower cut into Kornevin and place the lower part of the cutting slightly at an angle into a dry substrate by 1.5–2 cm. If you are planting several cuttings, the leaves should not touch the soil and each other.
7. We moisten the substrate abundantly from a spray bottle with warm water.
8. Powder the slices with turmeric or charcoal, cover the cuttings and put them in a shady, cool place for a month.

• it is necessary to check the condition of the substrate 1-2 times a week and spray it so that it does not dry out;
• the optimum temperature for rooting is + 18–25 o С;
• a month and a half after rooting, the cuttings are planted in a more nutritious mixture (one per pot). Can be planted in regular hydrangea soil;
• for winter, cuttings are prepared for rest, like ordinary hydrangeas;
• in the spring, fertilize or spray the cuttings with nitrogen fertilizer for better growth until June 1 time per week;
• in May of the following year, after planting, the cutting can be cut by 2/3 for better branching.

Video: how to propagate hydrangea by cuttings

Water rooting option

We perform the same actions as for rooting in the substrate, but we do not dip the lower cut of the cutting into Kornevin, but add this preparation to the water at the tip of a knife. You can add Methylene Blue (available from pet store aquariums). It conditions and disinfects water, protecting against fungal infections. It is enough to tint the water a little with it to a blue tint.

Hydrangea cuttings do not emit substances that greatly spoil the water, so it does not need to be changed. but only add as it evaporates.

We put the cutting in water until the roots form and plant it in the ground after the roots grow a little.

The roots usually grow within a month.

Dividing the bush

It is better to divide the bush in the spring, although this operation can be performed in the fall (before or after flowering).

To split a bush:

• we get the hydrangea out of the pot;
• shake off excess soil;
• we check the roots, cut off the dried ones if necessary.
• we are looking for a suitable place for separation and cut the bush with a sterile sharp knife;
• we plant delenki according to the usual scheme.

Seed propagation

Plants obtained from seeds bloom in the third year.

• Hydrangea seeds are sown in February in a mixture: 4 parts of leafy land, 2 parts of peat, 1 part of sand, 1 part of humus;
• You can also sow in one of the purchased soils for hydrangeas (as well as conifers, azaleas, rhododendrons);
• Hydrangea seeds do not need pre-planting treatment, but for better germination into the water, with which you will moisten the soil from a spray bottle, you can add Epin: 7–8 drops per half liter of water.

Step-by-step instructions for sowing hydrangea seeds

1. Sow seeds superficially and evenly on a moist substrate.
2. Sprinkle a little (!) With sand on top. Moisten with a spray bottle and cover with glass or other transparent lid.
3. We put it in a warm, bright place (+ 18–28 o C). But not in direct sunlight!
4. We monitor the humidity, regularly spray the substrate.
5. We ventilate every day for about five minutes, wipe the glass from condensation.
6. When shoots appear, remove the glass.

The seeds germinate within a month.

Seedlings are planted in the same substrate when the first pair of leaves appears on them.

When young plants have five leaves, they need to be planted again.

Small sprouts need to be fed with fertilizer from nitrogen and potassium 2 times a month (watered or sprayed).

The composition of the fertilizer: dilute half a teaspoon of carbamide (urea) in warm water, add a few granules of potassium permanganate (potassium fertilizer) until a slightly pink color is obtained.

Despite the fact that caring for hydrangea is quite difficult, it fully justifies itself when luxurious buds appear. No other flower can compare with the hydrangea in either the size or the brightness of the inflorescences.

Growing a hydrangea in the garden is simple and profitable, because there are many varieties of this plant, and they are unpretentious in care. Having studied the special needs of the flower, the gardener will be able to properly prepare the soil for planting, choose a suitable planting site, determine the best planting time and get a beautiful and healthy harvest.

Seat selection

There are several types of hydrangea. Some of the requirements for growing conditions they have the same, and some are different. So, for example, panicle hydrangea grows for a long time in one place and does not tolerate transplanting in an adult state. This is how it differs from other species, for example, large-leaved hydrangea and serrata hydrangea, which can be transplanted painlessly if the initially chosen place was not very successful. In addition, panicle hydrangea is distinguished by the fragility of the shoots. Therefore, it should not be planted near buildings in order to protect it from snow falling from the roof in winter.

Another special type is that the petiole hydrangea has a liana-like shape, so it needs support. It is convenient to plant such a hydrangea near a fence, a gazebo, the walls of a country house. If you plant it in the middle of the site, you will need to install some kind of structure nearby (arch, pergola, etc.) so that the vines have something to cling to.

In the first years of life, hydrangea bushes are not very decorative. Therefore, at first, it is good to plant flowering annuals near them. But it is better not to plant bulbs next to it. They have to be dug out every 2-3 years. When digging, you can touch the root system of a hydrangea, and it is very painful for damage to its roots. Besides the types of hydrangea, there are many more varieties of each type.

They can also vary somewhat in size, flowering time, more or less frost resistance. All this also needs to be considered when choosing a landing site. For example, less winter-hardy varieties are planted so that it is convenient to equip a shelter for the winter. We will talk in more detail about the types and varieties of hydrangea in a separate chapter.

Most species and varieties of hydrangea prefer diffused lighting, openwork partial shade. They need a place that is lit most of the day, but shaded from direct sunlight at the same time. Therefore, hydrangeas grow well where, at noon, a not very thick shadow from the foliage of trees falls on them. However, they should not be planted in the immediate vicinity of trees so that the plants do not compete for food and moisture - the hydrangea has a branched root system, and the feeding area is large enough. The most light-loving is the petiole hydrangea, it can be planted in an open place.

The second important requirement for the landing site is protection from the prevailing winds. This is important both in summer and winter. The shoots of most hydrangeas are quite brittle, so strong summer winds can damage them. In winter, even the most cold-resistant varieties need the most comfortable and protected conditions, since the frost resistance of hydrangeas is still relatively low compared to other crops. It is good to plant hydrangeas near fences or walls of the house on the south or southwest side.

Hydrangeas (with the exception of the liana shape) are most often planted in single plantings or in small groups on a lawn or in a mixborder. They coexist well with low-growing shrubs (for example, astilbe), hosts, all kinds of ornamental grasses and cereals, peonies, daylilies, phlox, flowering annuals.

You don't have to worry about the height of the groundwater and the humidity of the site. Hydrangeas are very moisture-loving; with good care, they take root even on swampy soils and in lowlands (with the exception of panicle hydrangea, which does not like waterlogging).

The soil

For hydrangeas, a loose, moisture-absorbing, air-permeable soil with a high humus content is needed. A special requirement is the acidity of the soil - hydrangeas prefer slightly acidic or even acidic soils, the pH should be close to 5.5. Therefore, fresh manure cannot be applied under them - it shifts the acidity of the soil to neutral and alkaline. And under such conditions, plants develop leaf chlorosis, caused by poor absorption of iron. It is better to use humus and peat as organic additives for hydrangeas. Heavy soil can be corrected by adding coarse river sand. If the soil is neutral, it is acidified with aluminum sulfate, ammonium sulfate or potassium chloride. The acidity level can be determined by changing the color of the hydrangeas. If the flowers turn pink, it means that the soil is not acidic enough and the plant may soon get sick.

Landing dates

The time of planting hydrangeas in the ground depends on the condition of the seedling and the characteristics of the climate. The optimal planting time is late spring (early-mid-May), when the soil is already fully warmed up and the threat of night frosts has passed. In regions with warmer climates, the autumn planting of hydrangeas (mid to late September) is no less successful. It is also permissible in temperate climates, but only if the seedling is old enough and has a well-formed root system. Young seedlings with weak roots are best planted in spring beds for growing. They are left there until autumn or next spring.

Landing rules

The size of the planting hole depends on the size of the seedling (or rather, its root system). The largest are panicle hydrangea seedlings, which are recommended to be acquired and planted in a permanent place at the age of 4-5 years, so that the plant will take root well and bloom already in the year of planting. For them, the size of the pit is 80 x 80 cm.For other types of hydrangea, the standard planting pit is 50 x 50 cm.

The distance between the planting pits (or to neighboring plants for a single planting) should, on average, be 1-1.5 m.If the hydrangea is planted as a hedge, then the distance can be reduced to 0.7-0.9 m, but then every For 1-2 years, it will be necessary to do thinning pruning so that the bushes do not drown out each other. For standard forms of panicle hydrangea, the distance is greater than for other species - at least 2-2.5 m.

If the soil is very light, sandy, a small layer of clay (2-3 cm) can be placed on the bottom of the planting pit. Next, a drainage layer is laid (5-8 cm). For drainage, you can use expanded clay, fine gravel, broken brick. On top of the drainage, the pit is filled with a nutritious soil mixture. There are several options for the mixture, but the main thing is that humus and peat are present in it. Humus is introduced at the rate of 10 kg per pit. The amount of peat depends on the acidity of the soil. The lower it is, the greater the proportion of the mixture should be peat. In addition, it is imperative to add superphosphate (60 g per pit) and potassium fertilizers (20 g potassium sulfate per pit) to the mixture. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied if planting occurs in the spring (20 g of urea per pit). They are not needed for autumn planting. Fresh manure and lime should not be added in any case - hydrangeas do not tolerate them.

To decorate your summer cottage with large multi-colored caps of hydrangeas, it is important to know what growing conditions this plant prefers. In the case of an unsuccessful choice of the location and composition of the soil, the bushes at best will bloom badly, hurt, and at worst they may die.

Types of hydrangeas: is there a difference in the method of planting

Bushes or small trees with inflorescences of medium-sized flowers of different shades - from white and blue to pink and crimson - belong to the Hortensia family. There are about 80 varieties of this plant, but the most commonly grown:

• tree-like,
• paniculate,
• large-leaved.

Photo gallery: types of hydrangeas

Treelike hydrangea caps are most often white.
Panicle hydrangea owes its name to panicle-like inflorescences
Large-leaved hydrangea amazes with an abundance of colors

Usually, hydrangeas are tall (up to 3 m) shrubs or trees, but there are also vines (petiole variety) that twist up a tree up to 30 m in height.

There are slight differences in the planting of different types of hydrangeas:

What is the best time to plant hydrangea

Hydrangea can be planted in early spring, before the buds awaken, or in the fall, in September or October, after the end of the growing season. Usually shrubs are planted in the spring in regions with frosty winters, so that over the summer the plant will take root well and endure the first winter more easily. It is necessary to wait for the soil to warm up to above-zero temperatures and there is no severe frost. In the southern regions of Russia, where the autumn is long and relatively warm, the planted hydrangea manages to take root before stable frosts. Only seedlings with a well-developed root system need to be planted at this time of the year - they will take root faster in a new place.

In regions of Russia with a warm and long autumn, planting hydrangeas can be carried out even in October.

How to choose a seat

This is one of the garden plants that prefer partial shade. Too bright sun will lead to overdrying of the soil, which the moisture-loving hydrangea does not tolerate, and in full shade do not wait for abundant and prolonged flowering, the inflorescences will be smaller.

Hydrangea feels good by the fence, where the sun is only part of the day.

The soil should be moist, but at the same time, stagnant water should not be allowed - hydrangeas need good drainage. If trees grow next to lush bushes, they will take up too much moisture and nutrients, as a result, the plant may dry out.

My tree hydrangeas grow between the fence and the house. The sun on this part of the garden is only in the first half of the day, plus there is a street tap nearby, from which we take water for irrigation. At this place, the bushes feel great and every year they bloom with lush white caps all summer.

What kind of soil does hydrangea like

All hydrangea varieties prefer acidic soil (pH = 5.0–5.5) with good air permeability. You need to be very careful about water permeability: on the one hand, the plant does not like stagnant water, on the other hand, if the water goes deep too quickly (this happens when there is a lot of sand in the soil), the hydrangea roots will not receive the required amount of moisture. Therefore, the soil for flowers is prepared from the following components:

In no case should lime and ash be added to the planting pit, since these substances reduce the acidity of the soil. But you can put pine or spruce coniferous litter and 1 glass of superphosphate.

Planting hydrangeas: doing everything in order

So that the hydrangea seedlings, growing, do not interfere with each other and receive water and nutrients in full, it is important to observe the distance between them:

• for large-leaved - 120-150 cm;
• for paniculata - 1500–240 cm;
• for a tree - 100–140 cm.

The planting process itself consists of several steps:

1. Dig a hole with a diameter twice as large as the root system of the seedling together in an earthen lump (usually 30 to 70 cm). The depth of the hole must be at least half a meter.

   The hole for the hydrangea seedling should be twice the size of the earthen clod around the roots.

2. A layer of gravel or broken brick is poured onto the bottom of the pit for drainage.

   At the bottom of the hydrangea pit, drainage must be laid so that there is no stagnation of water

3. The prepared soil mixture is poured into the pit so that a mound 20-30 cm high is formed.
4. The roots of a seedling with a closed and open root system are pre-soaked in water to release and moisten them. Carefully inspect, damaged and too long (which do not fit in the pit) cut with a clean pruner, dipped in Kornevin or another stimulant.

   The roots of the hydrangea seedling are carefully examined and damaged and too long are removed

5. Hydrangea is placed on a mound, carefully spreading the roots.
6. They cover the bush, shaking it so that the earth fills all the voids, while not deepening the root collar (it should remain at the level of the soil).
7. Tamp the earth around the trunk.
8. Water the plant in such a way that water seeps into the ground to a depth of 30–40 cm. In order not to wash out the newly compacted soil, it is better to water around the bush (making a groove).
9. Mulch the soil around the hydrangea with a mixture of high (sour) peat with compost or other material.

   To keep the moisture in the ground longer after planting, the hydrangea bush is mulched with sour peat and compost or sawdust from coniferous trees

What care does a plant need after planting

The Latin name for the flower is Hydrangea, which is translated from Greek as “a vessel of water”. The plant needs regular (once or twice a week) and abundant watering - up to 20 liters for an adult bush and up to 5 liters - immediately after planting. The soil under the bush should never dry out. The bushes are watered early in the morning or in the evening with cold water, to which manganese-sour potassium (up to pink color) can be added two to three times per season to prevent root decay.

Since the plant does not tolerate the presence of lime in water and soil, water is defended by watering for two days so that it ceases to be hard, or add 2 teaspoons of food grade or 1 teaspoon of soda ash to a bucket of water.

To achieve a bright color, the hydrangea is watered only with settled soft water.

After planting, if the soil mixture was prepared correctly, the bushes do not feed for the first two years. Hydrangeas planted on soils poor in nitrogen, two weeks after planting on a flowerbed, can be watered with a solution of urea (25-30 g per 10 L of water) or slurry (a third of manure in a bucket of water, 50 g of superphosphate, insist for 7-10 days depending on the air temperature).

If a white bloom appears on the leaves of a planted bush - a sign of powdery mildew damage, the bush is treated with Bordeaux liquid. Aphids are destroyed with Fitoverm or Actellik.

Unpretentious and profusely flowering from early summer to autumn, hydrangea will decorate the garden if you prepare for planting and plant the bushes correctly. It is important to take into account the plant's requirements for illumination, soil acidity and water regime.