Make a light in the garage with your own hands. Legalization of electricity in the garage! The main elements of the switchboard
The basic requirements that need to be taken into account when wiring at almost any facility are described in the Electrical Installation Rules (PUE) in chapter 2.1 (wiring), as well as, on specific issues, in a number of other chapters. In this article, we will consider the basic requirements and typical schemes, the knowledge of which is necessary in order to make electrical wiring in the garage with our own hands.
- What is the way to lay electrical wiring in the garage?
Any electrical wiring begins with the choice of the method of its installation. Generally, garage wiring is done openly to reduce costs. If the garage is made of cinder block, brick, iron, i.e. any non-combustible material, then the laying can be carried out in almost any way, from laying in the corrugation to direct laying (for example, on brackets), if the garage is made of wood or any other combustible material - this imposes much more restrictions on the possible ways of laying, in this case electrical wiring is best done in a box (cable duct).
- What cable (wire) should I use for wiring in the garage?
For wiring, it is necessary to use cables with aluminum (AVVG brand) or copper (VVG brand) conductors, while it is better to give preference to copper:
Use of flexible wires of PVS type or SHVVP cords not allowed!They are used only for connecting mobile, portable and stationary electrical appliances to the network or for extension cords.
- What cable size should you use?
The cross-section of the cables used for wiring is determined based on the power of the electrical appliances connected to them, knowing this power, you can calculate the cross-section using ours. As a rule, for wiring, cables with a cross section of 1.5 (or 2.5) mm 2 for copper, or 2.5 (or 4) mm 2 for aluminum are used.
- What electrical safety requirements must be followed?
Modern electrical safety requirements state that new buildings must have grounding (7.1.13. Power supply of electrical consumers should be performed from a 380 / 220V network with a grounding system or), in domestic realities, it is implemented according to the TN-CS system, where the neutral conductor is re-grounded at the input and divided into a working zero and a protective conductor (for more details on how to make grounding using the TN-CS system), therefore the cables must have a grounding conductor, those. for electrical wiring, you must use three-core (for a single-phase network) or five-core (for a three-phase network) cables.
It is also worth considering that in the garage it is often necessary to use a carrier (portable lamp.) But in accordance with the requirements of the PUE the use of carrying bags with a voltage of 220 volts is prohibited, in paragraph 6.1.17 it is said that to power portable lamps in rooms with increased danger and especially dangerous, a voltage of no higher than 50 V should be used, and if they are used in cramped conditions or the employee is in an uncomfortable room (and often the position of a car mechanic is such), then the voltage should not exceed 12V).
You can get such a voltage in the garage in two ways: by powering the carrier from a 12V car battery or from a step-down transformer. Of course, you can use the first step-down transformer that meets the requirements, but it is much more rational to purchase a complete box with a step-down transformer, a circuit breaker and an outlet, for example, YATP 0.25 220 / 12B (produced by different enterprises, one of the examples of the name for a convenient search on the Internet stores - IEK MTT12-012-250), its power is 250 VA, there are more powerful options, they are selected based on the needs (the number and power of the lamps).
In addition, sockets in a 220 Volt network must have a grounding contact.
The required number and power of the luminaires can be calculated using
Wiring diagram
Consider a typical 220-volt electrical wiring in a garage. Any electrical wiring begins with an introductory switchgear (electrical panel) in abbreviated form - ASU, in which protection devices (, etc.) and an electric meter (if necessary) will be installed in the future, while the ASU itself, as a rule, is best installed near the entrance to garage.
On the front or side panel of the ASP, or next to it, light switches for the main (ceiling) lighting and a block of outlets are installed. It is better to install local lighting switches directly next to these lamps, that is, if you have an additional lamp installed above the workbench, then it is better to install the switch next to it. It is useful to install one or more sockets on the opposite wall, near the workbench (work table), so as not to scatter extension cords throughout the garage.
It is not safe to lay 220V lines in the inspection pit, and based on the above, this is completely prohibited. Therefore, it needs to be limited to 12V lamps, you can also arrange a 12V outlet to connect a portable lamp or instrument with a reduced power supply voltage.
If you have a compressor, a separate line is also laid to it.
Based on the foregoing, the arrangement of electrical equipment in the garage will look something like this:
NOTE: Junction boxes are shown in gray, where the wires of lines with a voltage of 220V are connected, and green - 12V.
Then the wiring diagram for 220V electrical wiring (sockets, compressor, as well as working and ceiling lighting) in the garage will look like this:
Junction boxes are marked with numbers, you will see their wiring diagrams below. Having drawn up the wiring diagram, you should calculate the length of the lines for the purchase of the cable. The cross-sections of the conductors for lighting lines are usually chosen in 1.5 mm², and for sockets - 2.5 mm². The cross-section of the cable cores for connecting the compressor is selected based on its power, in the diagram it is conventionally taken as 2.5 mm² (as a rule, this is sufficient). You can calculate more accurately using our.
We will also present the schematic connection diagrams separately for each cable in accordance with the above wiring diagram:
Here you can see the connection of a two-button switch for controlling the ceiling light and the wiring to the sockets. We considered this question in more detail in, and if you want to control the light in the garage from several places, then it will be useful for you
The cable to the compressor is not shown in these diagrams - it goes directly from the panel.
Now let's look at the laying of 12 volt networks. Using the example of a box with a step-down transformer of the YATP type, its connection diagram will look like this:
NOTE: When choosing a cable for a 12 Volt network, after it you must also use our other calculator.
The 12 Volt wiring diagram will look like this:
It is rational to carry out the wiring into the pit in the screed, having laid PVC, HDPE or a metal pipe in advance.
Diagrams for connecting cables in junction boxes, according to the numbering, in the previous figure:
The second junction box is located in the inspection pit, in it there are disconnected cables for powering all lamps and sockets for a portable light source
Electrical board diagram
In conclusion, we will consider the layout and diagram of the garage electrical panel (ASU).
A garage with no electricity is a pretty useless space. It is impossible to do anything in such a garage, because it is always dark in it, and there is nowhere to turn on the tools. Generally speaking, electrical wiring is an important, serious and responsible thing, but not at all as complicated as it might seem at first glance. Anyone can supply electricity to the garage!
Once you have successfully completed this task, it will never occur to you to hire an electrician to install electrical wiring.
Electricity in the garage: basic principles
What do you need to know in order to independently master the electrical wiring in the garage? Firstly, it is important to understand that in order to connect a point (an outlet or a light bulb), you need to bring two wires to it: phase and zero.
In addition, you will need some tools. Among them:
- a sharp knife for stripping the wire
- wire cutters
- a pair of screwdrivers (flat and cross)
- probe
Choosing a wire
Electrical cables are very different. This is dictated by the various spheres of their application and they differ in many ways. However, in apartments and houses (as well as in garages), they are usually used stranded copper wire.
It is important that the cable itself has two, or preferably three wires. One of them will become your "phase", the other - "zero", and the third - "ground". The cable marking indicates the number of cores and the cross section of each of them. For example, in a 2x0.75 cable, there are two cores, each with a cross section of 0.75 mm2. This cable is quite enough for wiring under lighting.
Advice! Even if you do not currently have a ground connection, run the wiring with ground. In this case, it will be relatively easy to make grounding in the future. But if you do the wiring with a two-wire wire, then in order to ground yourself later, you will have to completely redo it.
How to choose a wire size
Here you can give calculations and arguments, but we will give a simple practical advice. It makes no sense to pull a thick wire to connect the bulbs. As mentioned above, 2x0.75 stranded copper wire is quite suitable for lighting in the garage. Such a wire can withstand up to 3 kW.
For sockets, you need a more serious wire. In general, a 3x2.5 cable (or 2x2.5 without grounding) will suffice. This is enough for any household appliances and for most power tools. If you plan to regularly use a powerful tool (for example, welding), then it is better to draw an additional line for this with a 3x4 wire and equip it with a separate machine.
Advice! When choosing a cable, also pay attention to the quality of the insulating material. The softer and more elastic the cable sheath, the easier and more convenient it is to work with it. In this case, the insulation must be strong.
Getting started: starting electricity in the garage
Important! Before doing anything with the wiring, turn off the electricity on the shield (or unscrew the plug on the meter) and make sure that the section of the wiring you are working with is not energized.
What is the best way to connect to your home network and run the electrical cable into the garage? If you have a distribution board installed in your house, then the easiest and most reliable way is to connect to it.
Another option is the “twisting” of the wires, which usually goes right after the meter. It is necessary to remove the insulation from each of the wires and, as reliably as possible, tie the wires to the twist, which will stretch into the garage. After that, you need to insulate the connection again.
However, be careful. Often, electricity is supplied to household plots with an aluminum wire. It cannot be directly twisted with copper. Upon contact with copper, the surface of the aluminum wire oxidizes and begins to conduct current worse. The resistance increases, and the place of such a twist begins to heat up strongly. Aluminum and copper wires must be connected with special terminal blocks. They are sold in electrical departments of building supermarkets and in small home improvement stores that have electrical goods.
As soon as you brought the wire into the garage, the first thing to do is put the shield with the machines. This will greatly enhance the security of your home electrical system and make it easier to troubleshoot problems if any.
The machine disconnects the load if the current flowing through the conductor significantly exceeds the rated current for which the machine is designed. By and large, this protects against short circuits and large overloads. For lighting, a 10 Ampere machine will be enough. For outlets, you should put a more powerful machine. For example, 25A.
Important! The machine has two terminals, but these are not "zero" and "phase". An automatic machine is essentially a switch that automatically breaks the wire in case of an overload. The phase enters into it, and the phase leaves it. In this case, the "zero" wire does not break - it goes around the machine.
Advice! The cores in the cable are most often marked with different colors. Choose your phase, zero, and ground color from the beginning and stick to that choice. This will not only facilitate and speed up the installation, but also save you from mistakes.
Modern shields include tire mounts. A bus bar is essentially a long metal plate with holes to hold the conductors. The tires make installation a lot easier. You just start the phase, zero and ground (if provided) on your buses, and then connect each line to the bus, passing the phase through the appropriate machine. It looks like this:
When you run electricity in the garage, you should provide at least two machines. One for lighting and one for outlets. If you wish, you can also separate them into separate lines - by equipping them with automatic machines - for a pump, street lighting, a socket for welding, a woodworking machine or other special equipment.
In a garage, there is no point in hiding the wiring in the walls. Firstly, this will require breaking the grooves in the walls, and this is dusty and unpleasant work. And secondly, open wiring makes it easy to find and fix faults, and in addition, if you suddenly need another outlet or you want to put lighting in a nearby shed, it will be much easier for you to do it. Secondly, it will be quieter upstairs to the wires. You won't damage them with furniture or tools.
Although, strictly speaking, attaching wires directly to wooden structures is not correct and even fire hazardous. If you plan to turn on powerful devices or tools, then it is better to additionally hide the wires in a special plastic corrugation or cable channels.
If you have a pit in your garage, and you want to put stationary lighting in it, then please note: you cannot conduct 220 volts into it. Lighting in the pit must be low-voltage (12 to 36 volts) - this is required for safety reasons. Therefore, this is done through a step-down transformer.
At first glance, it may seem that all this is difficult, but as soon as you get down to business and plug in your first outlet, you will understand that there is nothing difficult in doing electrical wiring in the garage with your own hands - no!
It is not difficult to conduct electricity in the garage, and, having learned this simple work, you can make your own electrical wiring not only in the garage, but almost anywhere.
Conducting official electricity and
preparation of a complete package of documentation.
In garage cooperatives, the connection to electricity is very simple. You contact the board of the cooperative with a request to connect to electricity, they give the number of a local electrician. We met, looked at what to buy and literally within 2-3 days in the garage a brand new meter is already flaunting and the light is on.
And if your garage is detached (not part of the cooperative) or the cooperative has collapsed a long time ago or the cooperative has never existed. How then to connect to the life-giving light? And without a light in the garage it is very bad. The garage seems to be dark, not pleasant, somehow cold, repulsive. It is not very convenient to park the car in the evenings in the dark. All the time you shine on your phone and a small flashlight, you can't see what you cling to and what you can't find.
You can, of course, do the old-fashioned way, agree with a local electrician, he will drop a wire on the pole on the cheap and voila, there is light, or so the previous owner “electrified” the garage before you.
Article 7.19 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation. Unauthorized connection and use of electrical, thermal energy, oil or gas.
Unauthorized connection to power grids shall entail the imposition of an administrative fine on citizens in the amount of 10,000 to 15,000 rubles; for officials - from 30,000 thousand to 80,000 thousand rubles or disqualification for a period of 1 to 2 years; for legal entities - from 100,000 to 200,000 rubles. (as amended by Federal Law of 03.11.2015 N 307-FZ)
What to do? Walk and shake that sooner or later they will come, not only will they cut off, they will also fine. And sooner or later they will definitely come.
In such cases, you should think about the official connection to the electrical networks.
First of all, you need to collect a package of documents to obtain technical specifications. Hand them over to the power grid. They accept documents three times a week for three hours, at not the most convenient time. As in any large government organization, queues don't even make sense.
During the next working week after the submission of the documents, an electrician will call you to inspect your garage for the possibility of connecting to the electrical network, where the nearest connection point is. Usually they call in the daytime and offer to meet at the garage within one maximum of two hours! This is often very inconvenient, especially with our endless traffic jams.
After an on-site inspection by an authorized employee, the technical conditions for connecting your garage to the electrical network are prepared. It often happens that a specialist who prepared those. conditions did not thoroughly understand the situation and does not give out real technical conditions. (we had cases when we issued those conditions for conducting electricity to the garage, we need to build a line of 1.5 km worth 1 million. when it was possible to connect 50 meters away or wrote that it was necessary to lay 80 meters of cable, underground, when it was possible to connect at 5 meters) in such cases, it is necessary to meet with employees, the leadership of the relevant departments of the distribution zone and prove the illegality of such a decision.
After receiving adequate tech. conditions, it is necessary to directly connect the garage to electrical networks. Usually this connection is carried out by the installation team of the electrical networks. The cost of their services is certainly not cheap on average from 15 to 25 tr., Depending on the complexity and distance to the connection point (the price includes a cable, a meter, the necessary limiters and machines). Unfortunately, it is more expensive to refuse their services, because in addition to connecting they issue one linear circuit, a certificate of testing that everything complies with the requirements of the law. At the end of their work, the garage is already electrified, you can absolutely safely use electricity. It takes from 1 to 2 months from the submission of documents for connecting the garage to the networks.
Next, you need to sign an agreement with the supplying organization, write an application for opening an account, open an account. The final stage of electricity registration takes about 3-4 months.
Since 2007, our Garage Agency has gained experience in supplying electricity to garages in Rostov-on-Don. A number of non-standard tasks have been solved. Employees have extensive experience working with specialists from the RES,contacts with each district office have been accumulated. By contacting us you get a fullrange services, from the initial appeal for technical conditions, the physical connection of the garage to the electrical network, ending with the issuance of the first receipt for payment of the electricity bill to you.
Dial and Get a FREE consultation... Find out how much it will cost to conduct official electricity in your particular case.
The technology for creating electrical wiring in the garage is different from working in an apartment or a private house. However, it is not difficult to bring electricity to the garage, but the help of a specialist may be required. The fact is that the supply of electricity from the pole to the panel must be carried out by a qualified electrician with a license to work with high voltage. Inside the garage, you can already cope with the task yourself.
Scheme development
Before starting installation work, you should create a wiring diagram in the garage. It must necessarily indicate the place of cable entry into the building, as well as the location of the electrical panel, lamps and sockets ... When drawing up a diagram, several requirements must be followed:
Here is an example of a wiring diagram in a garage, which will not be very difficult to create with your own hands:
Selection and calculation of materials
After completing the design of the circuit, you can proceed to the selection of the necessary materials. First of all, you should decide on the amount of cable. Since it is necessary to carry out not only internal, but also external wiring (from the pillar to the building), then the conductors must be selected for each type of work.
To extend the outside line, use a cable with copper conductors with a cross section of at least 10 mm 2. It is impractical to use a conductor with aluminum conductors. This is due not only to the need to use a conductor with a larger cross-section in comparison with a copper wire, but also due to the low elasticity of aluminum. In such a situation, the risks of mechanical damage increase significantly.
To calculate the required amount of wire, you need to decide on all electrical appliances that are planned to be installed in the garage. The total power of these devices should be multiplied by 1.2 to provide a 20% power reserve. To connect the sockets, it is recommended to use conductors with a cross section of 4 mm 2, and 1.5 mm 2 will be sufficient for switches. It is also necessary to take the wire in length with a margin. It is recommended to increase the calculated length by 15 cm for each connection.
In the garage, it is often enough to install 2 sockets and 2 switches. If there is no basement or viewing hole in the building, then you can limit yourself to one switch. Nowadays many people are paying attention to LED lamps. They are more expensive than fluorescent ones, but are more economical. Most often, electrical wiring in the garage is carried out by an open method, and in such a situation, the number of cable channels or corrugations should be additionally calculated.
Installation steps
All work can be divided into three stages. Each of them has its own characteristics that must be taken into account when working independently.
Preparatory work
Preliminary work consists of preparing the walls and cutting the conductors. It should be remembered that the markings on the surface of the walls must be applied in accordance with the previously developed scheme. The easiest way to solve this problem is to use a special cord.
It is installed at the starting point and secured. After that, the cord in a taut state is stretched along the wall to the next wiring point, pulled to the side and lowered with a sharp movement. As a result, an imprint remains on the wall surface. At this stage, it is important to pull the cord strictly vertically or horizontally in accordance with the diagram.
When the wiring is carried out in a hidden way, then after marking it is necessary to make grooves for the wires. If the garage is metal, then it is worth choosing an open wiring. It should be remembered that the dimensions of the grooves should be 20x20 mm.
External wiring
It is advisable to entrust these works to a specialist. The easiest way to route the cable from the pole to the garage is by air. However, it should be remembered that when the distance from the post on the street to the building is more than 25 m, then one more additional support has to be installed. In addition, several height requirements are imposed on overhead wiring:
- Above the roadway - from 6 m.
- Above the footpaths - more than 3.75 m.
- Entry into the building - at least 2.77 m.
If the first two requirements are met without problems, then the latter cannot be said. The garage is a low-rise structure and many problems can be encountered when entering the cable through the roof. To avoid them, it is recommended to enter through a metal pipe slightly curved at the top.
You can also conduct electricity from the pole using underground wiring. Difficulties should not arise here, you just need to make a trench, into which the armored conductor is then placed. An example of such a cable can be a cable marked VBbShv. However, this method of input should be thought out even at the stage of construction of the garage and an opening for cable entry should be provided in the foundation.
To protect the conductor from mechanical damage, it is better to place it in a steel box. The only drawback of the underground installation method in comparison with the air one is its higher cost.
Internal gasket
If the electrical wiring is carried out in a hidden way, then the wires are laid in pre-made grooves, after which they are fastened with brackets or clamps. The next step is to install the junction boxes, as well as the switches and sockets.
After that, it remains to connect all the wires and ring the finished wiring with a multimeter. It should also be recalled that the wires must be switched exclusively using blocks... If, after checking the wiring, no problems arose, then the walls are plastered.
In an iron or wooden garage, the wiring is easier to do in an open way. For this, cable channels are installed on the walls, in which the wires are laid. This method of installing electrical wiring is extremely rarely used in residential premises, but is great for a garage.
Even a novice electrician can do the wiring in the garage. Although this is a rather laborious process, it is not very complex.
Today in the article we will deal with a rather complex topic - wiring in the garage. The topic is complicated by the fact that today a garage is not only a haven for a car. This is practically a full-fledged workshop where different power tools are used. Therefore, we will talk about how to correctly create an efficiently working wiring diagram, what parameters to pay attention to when choosing materials, about the rules for the installation process.
Schema creation rules
The easiest way is, if the garage is being built on a site to which a power line has already been connected, a separate switchboard is installed. It remains only to lead the cable from the panel to the garage. If the latter is a building located far from the main house, then you will have to choose two connection options: from the house or a separate line from the post located outside the territory of the summer cottage. The second option is more complicated in that the air can be carried out by electricians who have access to this type of work. In addition, a separate switchboard will have to be installed in the garage.
Now, regarding the electrical wiring diagram in the garage (wires and cables). First of all, the point of entry of the external power cable is determined, as well as the installation location of the shield. Then the locations of the lamps and sockets are applied to the diagram. All this is connected by routing lines. What are the requirements for all these elements:
Wiring lines inside the garage should only be laid in vertical or horizontal directions. No slopes.
The transition from a horizontal section to a vertical one (and vice versa) is made only at right angles.
Distance of horizontal sections from the ceiling or floor, vertical from the corners of the building, window and doorways - 15 cm.
Also distance and to heating devices (radiators, stoves, etc.).
Number of sockets at the rate of one per 6 m 2 or every 4 m.
Installation height of sockets - 60 cm from the floor surface.
Installation height of switches - 1.5 m. They are mounted at a minimum distance of 15 cm from the door frames.
If the garage has a basement and a viewing pit, then they have sockets do not install... This also applies to light switches. These elements are mounted in the garage itself in a convenient place.
The optimal solution is a three-phase wiring diagram. In this case, one phase is connected only to lighting fixtures, the other two are scattered over the sockets. If a three-phase connection is a problem, then use a single-phase (220 volt). For this option, you will have to accurately calculate the load on the cables and choose the right cross section. This mainly concerns the wires for the outlets.
In this case, again, it is better to divide the circuit into two sections: for bulbs and sockets. And for each loop, you will have to select a circuit breaker for power consumption and current strength.
How to correctly calculate the amount of materials required
After creating the circuit, you can easily count the number of outlets and switches. Harder with the cable. We'll have to apply cable lines on the inner walls of the garage according to the scheme. After that, each section is measured with a tape measure and added to the total amount.
Please note that each loop will have its own wire size. Therefore, the length of each section is calculated separately. Do not forget about the outer line: from the pole to the garage. Usually, a copper cable with a cross section of 10 mm 2 is used for this. It will be enough even if the garage is converted into a workshop.
As for the cross-section of cables for lamps, then a wire with a cross section of 1.0-1.5 mm 2 is suitable. For outlets, it is necessary to calculate the power of the equipment and power tools that will be connected to them. To do this, the powers of all devices are summed up, that is, the total power consumption is determined, regardless of whether the tools will be used at the same time. The resulting value is increased by 20%. This is the so-called safety margin. Now we need to turn to special tables, which show the dependence of power consumption and the cross-section of the electric cable. In the photo below, one of these tables is presented.
As practice shows, a cable with a cross section of 4 mm 2 is suitable for outlets. And this is the maximum value. For many power tools, 2.5 mm 2 will suffice.
If the installation of electrical wiring in the garage will be carried out in an open way, then you will have to count the number of fasteners and corrugations or cable channels. Of course, it is better to carry out hidden wiring with subsequent wall decoration. The wires will not be visible, which means they will not spoil the appearance of the premises. The only thing that needs to be done is to put the circuit in a safe place so as not to lose it in case a nail or a self-tapping screw needs to be driven into one of the walls. In order not to damage the laid cable.
Stages of wiring installation
Stage three:
training;
mounting outside area;
mounting internal scheme.
Preparatory work
They are mainly carried out inside the garage. The work carried out concerns the marking, the creation of places for the installation of sockets and switches, the places for fastening lighting devices and areas for laying wires. The markup does not cause problems. It must be transferred from the diagram to the walls of the garage using a ruler and pencil. If the garage is large, it is recommended to use a marking cord. Do not forget that all lines are applied only vertically or horizontally.
On our website you can find the most ... In the filters, you can set the desired direction, the presence of gas, water, electricity and other communications.
Sockets for sockets, switches and branch boxes are made with a perforator with a diamond crown. Strobes in the walls with a special tool called a chasing cutter. Although there are several ways to make grooves: from a simple one - a hammer with a chisel, to a more efficient one - a hammer drill with a blade-like attachment. Although the groove cutter is both the speed of the operations performed and the evenness of the channels being cut. But there is a lot of dust.
The depth and width of the strobes depends on the diameter of the electrical wire. But, as practice shows, both dimensional parameters usually do not exceed 2 cm.
As for the connection diagram for lighting in the garage. In this case, the cable is pulled along the ceiling. If the overlap is reinforced concrete slabs, then the cable is passed between them in a gap, which is subsequently covered with cement-sand mortar or ready-made plaster mixture. If the overlap is one monolithic slab, then the cable is passed through the corrugation, which is attached to the ceiling with clamps for self-tapping screws.
Outdoor cable laying
There are two ways: air and underground. It is better to choose the first one, as the simplest and least laborious. There are some requirements that apply to this type of wiring:
If the cable has to be run over the roadway, then height laying should not be less than 6 m.
Over pedestrian an area of \u200b\u200bat least 3.75 m.
Entering the garage must be carried out at a height of at least 2.75 m.
If the distance from the power line post to the garage is more than 25 m, you will have to install an additional intermediate support.
A few words about the third requirement. The garage is a low building, so this parameter is difficult to withstand. To solve the problem, proceed as follows - from a steel pipe with a diameter of 20-32 mm, a stand is made in the form of a curved structure, as shown in the photo below. This device is attached to the roof of the garage or to the wall.
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer services for the construction of small architectural forms... You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".
If it is decided to carry out underground laying, then there are no serious requirements for it. The only important requirement is to use an armored cable marked with the letter "b", for example, VBbShv.
A trench is dug from the power line pole in the direction of the garage, where the cable product is laid. In order not to damage the laid electrical wire when carrying out any excavation work at the summer cottage, it is better to lay the cable in a steel or plastic pipe, the diameter of which should be two times larger than the diameter of the cable itself. The steel pipe must be waterproofed, for example, it is coated with bitumen mastic.
It is very important that melt or rainwater does not get into the pipe, therefore, near the power line post, an upward bend is made, the end of which is sealed. The outlet should protrude above the ground surface by at least 5 cm. If the distance from the power transmission line support to the garage is 0.6-0.8 m, then it is not necessary to lay the cable in the pipe.
On the opposite side, the pipe and cable are led into the garage itself. To do this, you must first leave a through hole in the foundation of the structure. Usually a steel or plastic pipe is laid.
It should be noted that the underground method is a laborious option, an armored cable is expensive, and you have to additionally purchase a pipe. But, as practice shows, it is more durable than an air gasket.
Video description
The video shows how to lay the cable underground:
Internal wiring
Electricity in a garage, as in any other room or structure, is carried out in two ways: hidden and open. The first is to install the cable in the grooves. The second - along the walls, but in special duct boxes.
Hidden way
Installation of the cable begins with cutting it into pieces, the length of which is equal to the length of the loops, plus 10%. Then the junction boxes are mounted. They are recessed into nests, where they are fastened with screws on plastic dowels or with plaster mortar. Many people use a combined version, although two screws are enough.
The cable is laid in the grooves, where it is fastened with plastic clamps and self-tapping screws. Previously, alabaster was used for fastening. Many masters also use it today. But it is better to use modern fasteners.
An important point is the connection of the wiring between the loops. Twists protected with electrical tape have gone into oblivion, instead of them, terminal blocks of various types are used today. This is, first of all, the high safety of the connection, the tightness of the junction of the wires to each other.
So, the internal electrical wiring in the garage is almost complete. It remains only to close up the grooves with plaster solution, to install sockets and switches with their connection to electrical wires.
Outdoor way
If the garage is a wooden or metal structure, then electrical wiring can only be carried out in an open way. This will require special devices - the so-called cable channels. This is a two-meter long box, consisting of two parts: a base (box) and a lid.
The base is fixed with self-tapping screws along the applied lines of the wiring diagram, pre-cutting them along the length of each section. Their final packing point is sockets and switches. The intermediate element is junction boxes. All elements, like cable channels, are attached to the walls with self-tapping screws. They are not recessed into the thickness of the walls, therefore, for this method of installing an electrician, external sockets, switches and junction boxes are required.
Once all electrical wires are laid and connected to the end points, the cable ducts are closed with covers. The latter are attached to the base with latches located along the entire length of the device. Firstly, cable channels do not spoil the appearance of the garage walls. Secondly, it is always possible to easily remove the covers and check the condition of the electrical wiring. It is clear that it is also easier to repair or replace cables.
Video description
The video shows how to properly conduct electrical wiring in the garage using cable channels:
Switchboard installation
The situation when the garage is connected separately from the main house in a suburban area is rare. After all, you have to install a separate switchboard in the garage, where the electricity meter is also mounted. The complexity of the shield installation and its connection is low. But all this equipment will have to be purchased, and this is an extra financial cost.
But if such a situation has arisen, then the shield itself is installed on the wall of the garage: either inside or outside. The second option is preferable, there is always the possibility of not allowing inspectors into the garage. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping screws and plastic dowels. Installation height - 1.8 m. It is recommended to install a separate circuit breaker for each loop, and always one common one for the input.
Video description
The video shows how to properly install the switchboard in the garage:
Conclusion on the topic
As you can see, it will take a lot of effort and time to conduct electrical wiring in the garage. You should not treat this event with coolness. Electricity is no joke, even in a small building like a garage. Pay special attention to the area up to the outlet to which the welding machine or compressor will be connected. Both types of equipment are powerful enough, which means that they will have to select large cable cross-sections. It is better to pick up with a margin of at least 10%.
