Build a house from a bar 200x200 with your own hands. Self-construction of a cottage from a bar

At all times, wooden houses were considered the warmest and most environmentally friendly. They have high heat and sound insulation properties. If earlier wooden houses were built from logs, then modern ones can be built from ordinary, glued or profiled beams.

The house, built of timber, has a beautiful and rich appearance, and an atmosphere of warmth and comfort is created inside it. It is very easy to breathe in it, as the tree has good air permeability.

The timber differs in manufacturing technology (glued and solid wood), moisture (dry and natural moisture), profile. Profile and glued beams are most popular. They have a rectangular or square section.

The profile bar has a certain profile and resembles a log. Its bottom and top sides are processed so that they fit snugly at the mating points. Glued laminated timber has all smooth sides.

It must be remembered that during operation the tree cracks and shrinks.

Glued laminated timber is devoid of this drawback, since it is pre-processed and glued together with special glue boards. Due to the fact that the timber has a rectangular or square shape in cross-section, it is convenient to lay it. The groove-in-tenon fastening system in the profiled bar simplifies installation.

Therefore, even a person who has only a little construction experience can build a house from a bar with his own hands. In addition, it is easy to do interior and exterior decoration, since the geometrically correct shape allows you to get smooth surfaces.

Any material can be used for cladding. Due to the tight fit of the timber, the formation of cold bridges is excluded.

Foundation device

Like any capital structure, a house from a bar needs a foundation. The foundation is the basis of the house and the service life of the entire structure depends on its quality.

The most suitable for a wooden house is a strip foundation, especially if a basement or cellar is supposed to be built under the house.

It is able to withstand significant loads and does not require special equipment during construction. For silty, moist and loose soils, it is better to build a pile-grillage foundation.

It differs from the strip foundation by installing concrete piles in trenches; asbestos pipes can be used as piles. A solid foundation of a concrete slab is possible, in this case it acts as a subfloor.

Consider the step-by-step construction of the most popular strip foundation with your own hands. First of all, the layout of the future house is carried out: the location of the external walls and internal load-bearing walls.

To do this, pegs are driven in at the place of the corners and load-bearing walls and the fishing line is pulled. After tensioning the line, you need to measure the diagonals, they should be the same. Trenches are dug according to the markings, the width of which should exceed the thickness of the walls by 10 centimeters.

The depth of the trenches should be below the level of soil freezing, but not less than 60 centimeters. At this stage, a pit is dug according to the dimensions of the future basement or a pit for the cellar. The bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of sand and gravel or rubble, 10 centimeters each. In order for the sand to be better compacted, it must be moistened. On top of these layers, concrete 5 centimeters thick is poured.

At the next stage, do-it-yourself installation of wooden formwork from a board with a thickness of 20 mm is performed. When arranging the formwork, spacers are placed inside for strength, and on the outside it is supported by supporting boards.

The rods are laid along and across the trench, tying up the intersections with wire. After reinforcement, concrete mortar is poured. When pouring concrete, to avoid the formation of air bubbles in it, use a cement vibrator or tamp it by hand.

When concrete hardens, it must be constantly moistened so that it does not crack during hardening. Concrete according to the norms must harden for at least 28 days. After the final solidification of the foundation, you can start building the walls.

If you understand that you cannot master the construction on your own, then you can contact the company, order a house according to your or your own project. For example, look at these options for pine houses, they are quite well developed, and the experience of the company and the quality of materials are beyond doubt in the professional community.

Watch our video selection on the topic:

Wall erection and flooring

Before you start laying the first crown around the entire perimeter of the base, you need to lay a waterproofing layer of two layers of roofing material. This layer will protect the walls from moisture penetration.

The layers should be laid in the following sequence: a layer of bitumen, a layer of roofing material, then again a layer of bitumen and a layer of roofing material. The width of the insulation must exceed the foundation by 30 cm.

After that, the construction of the walls begins. For the walls, a timber is taken depending on the climatic conditions. If the frost does not decrease by more than 30 degrees, then a timber with a thickness of about 150 mm is taken. Otherwise, the bar is taken thicker. The main load is on the lower strapping, so it is advisable to put a larch board 5 cm thick under the first crown.

It is needed so that in the future, if repairs are required, not change the entire lower crown, but only the wedding board.

Boards and all timber should be carefully treated with an antiseptic to protect against decay and harmful insects, as well as fire retardant compounds that protect against combustion.

The first crown is laid in half a tree, regardless of how subsequent crowns will be laid. There are three ways of corner connection:

• end-to-end;
• half a tree;
• with a root spike.

After the first or second crown, floor joists are laid. If the base allows, then the lags are laid on it, if not, then they cut into the first crown. The rigidity of the structure is provided by lags and a clean floor.

Therefore, the thickness of the finished floor depends on the distance between the lags. The smaller the distance between the logs, the thinner the finished floor can be.

For example, with a distance between the logs of 40-70 cm, the floor is laid with a thickness of 25-40 mm. Lags should be laid strictly horizontally. A sub-floor made of unedged boards is laid on the logs.

On top of the subfloor, a layer of waterproofing, a layer of insulation, a layer of vapor barrier is laid in succession, and at the end the finishing floor is laid.

In the future, each new crown is laid after the previous one has been mounted. Insulation is laid between the bars: jute, tow or flax. It is better to use tape insulation of a suitable length, which is fixed with a stapler.

The gasket of the seal eliminates the formation of cold bridges, does not allow condensation to collect and mold to form. This allows you to extend the life of your home. The crowns are fastened together with the help of vertical pins - pins. They prevent the bar from curling and shifting.

Nails can be wooden or metal. Metal are more reliable, but they are more expensive. Install pins in one and a half meter increments. They usually pass through 2-3 crowns, holes 3-4 cm in diameter are drilled in a checkerboard pattern.

When laying the timber, it is necessary to install window and door frames, cutting the timber to the appropriate length. The boxes are fastened to the timber with nails.

If there are no boxes, then temporary risers are installed from unedged boards with the dimensions of future window frames. Internal partitions are made only after the construction of the log house and cut into the main walls.

If a two-story house is being built, the dimensions of which are more than 6x6 meters, then at least one partition must be installed on the first floor, which will serve as an additional support for the floor on the second floor.

After the first floor of the house has been laid out, the overlap of the second floor is made with your own hands and the construction of the log house continues.

The ceiling is used as a sub-floor on the second floor. No waterproofing is needed on the second floor. A layer of insulation is made for better heat and sound insulation of the floor. The construction market offers a wide selection of floor coverings:

• parquet board;
• linoleum;
• laminate;
• tile;
• carpet, etc.

For a house made of timber, any coating is suitable, it is important that it is in harmony with the interior of the room and fits the overall design of the rooms.

Roof installation

After the walls have been erected, the roof construction begins. Roofs can be single-pitched, gable, broken, cross, hipped and others. The most popular are gable and broken.

Due to their simplicity, they can be easily assembled by hand. In addition, the construction of these roofs allows the construction of an attic.

Roof installation consists of the following steps:

• installation of the rafter system;
• waterproofing layer device;
• thermal insulation layer device;
• laying of roofing material.

The base of the roof is the overlap. It must be durable and reliable. Ceiling beams are used for its construction. They fit in increments of at least one meter. When laying beams, you need to use a level in order to achieve a general plane and perfect horizontality.

Then, using the rafters, the structure of the future roof is mounted. It is rigidly fixed with crossbars, struts and struts. First, a frame of rafters is mounted, which are stacked at a distance of one meter between themselves. Then the fronts are laid out with a bar or boards.

At the last stage, a crate is stuffed onto the rafters with a step of at least 40 cm.Further, a waterproofing and heat-insulating layer is arranged.

When the roof frame is ready and all layers are laid, you can proceed with the roofing. The main purpose of the roof is to protect the house from precipitation and external mechanical influences, but it must also be in harmony with the appearance of the whole house.

The most popular types of roofing material are metal, slate, ondulin and corrugated board. The cheapest roofing option is to lay roofing material on the crate and cover it with slate sheets on top.

Care and finishing work

If you build a house with your own hands from laminated veneer lumber, then you can immediately after its construction start finishing work. According to the rules, it takes about two years for a wooden house to shrink. During this time, the tree adapts to the climatic conditions where the house is located.

During this period, it is important to ventilate the room all the time in order to allow it to dry well and exclude rotting. After shrinkage, all cracks and cracks that have appeared on the walls must be repaired with special mastic and constantly covered up as they appear.

After the frame has shrunk, windows and doors are installed and you can proceed to its interior and exterior decoration. Houses made of profiled lumber do not need finishing, they are beautiful in themselves.

In other cases, external finishing involves painting or covering the entire facade with cladding materials. The interior decoration consists of ceiling and wall decoration.

If finances allow or it is not possible to build a house with your own hands, you can buy a ready-made one. Prices for such houses depend on the architectural design and construction.

Their cost ranges from 7 thousand rubles to 20 thousand rubles per square meter. The more complex the project, the more expensive it is, especially if the house is built on an individual project.

Below is a table of approximate prices for houses made of profiled timber:

House size, meters	Beam 100 × 150 mm, thousand rubles	Timber 150 × 150 mm, thousand rubles	Bar 150 × 200 mm, thousand rubles
5x5	350	390	450
6x4	450	530	590
6x7	530	610	650
6x8	550	630	690
6x9	739	790	850
7x9	865	895	987

Houses made of laminated veneer lumber are about one and a half to two times more expensive. This is due to the more complex production technology.

In order for a house to serve for many years, it must be constantly looked after. Renew the protective coating regularly after 3-4 years. Monitor the condition of the foundation; it should not be flooded in order to avoid rotting. With proper care, a house built from a bar with your own hands can become a family nest and will last for more than a dozen years.

As before, and today, building a log house with your own hands was considered a laborious process. However, living in such a house is the real dream of any person who respects natural materials. In addition to beauty and comfort, wood houses have good thermal insulation properties, in winter the rooms are always warm, and in summer direct sunlight cannot warm up the timber to the end, which allows you to keep cool.

Building from a bar is not only laying logs on top of each other, it includes the stages of material procurement, pouring the foundation, erecting walls and covering the house with a roof. Insulation of the roof and underground space can be used as additional work. Phased construction of a house from a bar, that's what this article will be about.

Wood selection

Before you build a house from a bar with your own hands, you should make a choice of the material from which the house will be built, several options can be considered here. The main criteria for choosing wood are:

Depravity - many varieties have a very high strength index, some in this parameter can be comparable to metal;

• Thermal conductivity coefficient - depending on the type of wood, it may differ slightly, but in general, the ratio is approximately the same for all varieties;
• Price - in this category, bars with a higher resistance to moisture and those that are denser will be more expensive.

Most often, coniferous types of wood are chosen for construction from a bar, this is due to the low coefficient of thermal conductivity and durability of such a material. The needles are less susceptible to decay processes and can withstand significant loads.

Difference between solid and profiled timber

For the construction of houses from a bar with your own hands, both types are suitable, but it is important to know the difference between them for the correct choice of material.

The difference between a profiled bar, judging by the name, is the presence of spikes and grooves on its surface, in the upper and lower planes. The spike and groove occupy the entire length of the timber, and have a well-processed surface, this allows you to make connections to each other like a large constructor.

Here are the main advantages of a profiled timber construction site:

1. Dimension - this material of houses from a bar has standard sizes, and, if necessary, can be ordered individually. The surface is well finished, and the fittings are precisely sized;
2. Resistance to deformation - due to the fact that this material almost always undergoes a drying procedure before processing, it does not deform during operation. Another factor that indirectly affects the elimination of deformation is a special shrinkage groove;
3. Protection against decay - due to its flat surface and tight fit, water does not have the ability to accumulate in the crevices, even during periods of sudden temperature changes, ice cannot penetrate into the crevices when frost and thaw change;
4. Additional work - there is no need to waste time on warming by caulking joints after shrinkage;
5. Ease of work - building a house from a bar with your own hands simplifies the fact that all the elements are assembled according to the scheme and you still need to try to assemble it incorrectly. This has a positive effect on the timing of the work.

A small list of disadvantages of building from a profiled bar includes:

There are more disadvantages, but you can deal with everyone when building a house from a bar with your own hands:

1. Finishing work - construction of solid timber rarely ends with simple wall construction. If this is not a bathhouse or utility room, the surface of the house should be additionally sanded, varnished or sheathed with clapboard;
2. Rotting susceptibility - the natural moisture of a solid bar has this effect. To combat this phenomenon, the surface of the house should be treated with antiseptic agents every year, and then the wall should not be rotted;
3. Caulking - should be done several times. Immediately during construction, it will help to dig the joints of walls and corners only in the first year. After each shrinkage, you will have to repeat this procedure;
4. Longitudinal cracks - during the drying period, their occurrence will be inevitable.

Diy log house step by step instructions

Like any structure, a house should start with a foundation and before building a house, the area should be cleared of excess trash for convenient markup, and then we build a house from a bar with our own hands according to the plan:

• Marking - with small dimensions, a house made of 6x6 meters for example. It will not cause much difficulty. Drive four pegs in the corners and check if the diagonals match in length;
• A trench - is needed only in the case of a strip foundation, it must be dug with a depth of 800-1000 mm;
• Pits - suitable for a columnar foundation, their depth should be about the same level, and the width should be equal to the bayonet of the shovel. Depending on the size of the house, their number should be determined, on the basis that the distance between them should not exceed 600-700 mm;
• Pillow - the first layer of the foundation should be a layered pillow of sand and gravel. It will provide an acceptable backlash for the foundation. The sand is poured first and rammed, then crushed stone follows and is also rammed. How do I make the layers denser? You can water the bottom of the trench with water;
• Installing the formwork - raise the formwork to a height slightly higher than the required level of the foundation. The easiest way is to make the formwork from boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm (to avoid punching concrete under pressure).
• Pouring with concrete - if the house is small, then it is quite possible to perform this process by hand or mix the ingredients using a concrete mixer.

Concrete composition

There are several options, let's dwell on the one that can easily withstand the walls from a bar with our own hands, based on one batch in a concrete mixer:

• 3 buckets of sand;
• 1 bucket of rubble;
• 1 bucket of cement grade not lower than 400;
• Water as needed.

Preparing the foundation for building a house from a bar with your own hands - after it has stood for 3-4 days, you can remove the formwork and start processing it. It is necessary to warm up the bitumen over a fire and brush the entire surface of the foundation with a brush, the layer must be thick enough. When the bitumen hardens, roofing material can be rolled over the entire surface. For more reliable protection, you should start up the second layer of roofing material, having previously lubricated the first with bitumen.

Walls and floor

If you do not know how to properly build a house from a bar, then below is the method for building walls:

1. The first crown - for greater reliability, the house is assembled from a bar with a lining under the crown of a larch board with a cross section of at least 150x50 mm. The bars impregnated with an antiseptic are usually joined in the corners using a half-wood joint, this is considered the toughest joint, and it is quite tight;
2. The wedding board is placed so that rotting does not spread from the timber, but from it. When this process begins, it will not be difficult to replace the board, which cannot be said about the first crown.
3. Laying the lag - in the case of a sufficient width of the foundation, the lags are laid directly on it, but if the first crown completely overlaps it or the foundation is made by the pillar method, they should be cut into the crown. There is also the option of independent floors, but this is a topic for a separate article. The distance between them is varied from their section, but should not be more than 1 meter and less than 40 cm. The lags are installed on the end, for greater rigidity of the future floor;
4. Subfloor - for laying it, a board is used after initial processing. Gradually pick up the floor, hammering nails into logs no shorter than 100 mm from it. For this operation, a board with a thickness of 25-50 mm is used, it depends on the distance between the logs, the greater the distance, the thicker the board is needed;
5. Waterproofing layer - placed with the rough side to the board, fastened around the perimeter with stapler brackets;
6. Insulation layer - expanded polystyrene is usually used as insulation, but for greater environmental friendliness it can be replaced with mineral wool. The insulation can be not particularly fexed;
7. A layer of vapor barrier - is necessary to retain the moisture generated in the atmosphere of the house, it must be fixed around the perimeter, like waterproofing with a stapler, only not to the floor, but to the lower part of the walls;
8. Finishing floor - usually consists of sanded boards.
9. Subsequent crowns - the bars of their components can be of a smaller section than the first. Corner locks can also be different, regardless of what the lock of the first crown was. To preserve heat, each subsequent crown is caulked with flax or special bundles.

Most often, when building a house from a bar with your own hands, three types of lock connections are used:

• End-to-end;
• Half a tree;
• Using a root spike.

Nagel - the crowns are connected to each other using special pins made of wood, which are called dowels. Sometimes metal dowels are used. They securely fix the timber, preventing it from moving along the groove. Usually their length is enough to pierce from 2 to 4 bars, for this a hole is drilled in them to the length of the dowel.

Window and doorways are another complex element that is important not to miss when building a house from a bar with your own hands without experience. In order to prevent the beams from sagging in wide openings, they are supplied with specially prepared wooden boxes consisting of boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm. You can replace the boxes by installing temporary supports from logs;

The last crown - it must completely repeat the first and, if necessary, have a larger section than the intermediate ones. The lock connection is made in half a tree;

Internal partitions - they must be erected last after the load-bearing walls have been built. An exception can be a partition, made to strengthen the structure of the house, and also being a carrier, in the case when the house is being built more than 6x6 with your own hands;

Arrangement of the second floor - if you are building a two-story house, then you need to know that the second floor is being erected after laying the ceiling on the first, which in turn will serve as a rough floor. Ceiling retaining beams are made of the same section as for the floor. Steam and waterproofing for the interfloor space should not be used, but insulation can become additional sound insulation.

Roof installation

In the construction of houses from a bar, several types of roofs are used, consider the most popular of them - gable. You can make it yourself, and the space under such a roof can be used as a small room.

1. Overlapping - first of all, when assembling floor beams, you need to know that the step between them should not be less than 100 cm. For their manufacture, you can use a solid timber, or use the material for lags with a section of 150x50 mm. The upper beam must be at least 100x100 mm in section;
2. Roof frame - a beam and a primary processing board are used for it. It is necessary to assemble the rafters, then they are fixed with crossbars. On them, a crate is made of boards with a thickness of 20-30 mm and you can proceed to the next stage;
3. Waterproofing - the film is laid with the rough side on the surface and fastened with staples. In some cases, the film can be replaced with roofing material, but this is less effective and will be more expensive for money;
4. Thermal insulation - mineral wool is most often used for roof insulation;
5. Roof covering - there are enough varieties of materials for roofing that you can choose according to your pocket, however, it is important that the house from a bar looks organically under the roof, and for this you need to either show your imagination or look at photos on the Internet.

Finishing work

The final stage of construction is the finishing of the premises, there are enough options for how you can do it yourself, first you need to choose the appropriate interior design. Choosing a hunting style, you can revet the walls with stone, and animal skins, tiles that imitate a natural structure are also suitable, brickwork will look good in this design. But how the house built with your own hands will look like is up to you, for this you can see the photos of the designs on this site.

Video: do-it-yourself log house

The stressful lifestyle in a large city makes you want to get out into nature as often as possible in order to breathe fresh air and take a break from the bustle of the city. A good comfortable house is needed for a comfortable stay. Having bought a plot of land in an ecologically clean area, you can build a house from a bar with your own hands, provide it with individual water supply, heating and a sewage system. In this article we will tell you how to build a house from a bar without building experience, from foundation to roof.

House design

It is not difficult to make a heating system yourself. Work in this direction begins after the installation of windows and doors. The choice of heating systems for a private house depends on the centralized communication systems passing nearby. The simplest option would be to install a water circuit with parallel connection of a gas, electric and solid fuel boiler. This is a guarantee of warmth in the house in all weather conditions and cataclysms.

To drain wastewater, you need to equip a septic tank yourself.

It is impossible to imagine life in the house without electricity. It is better to entrust the installation of an electrical cable, wiring and connection of lamps and household appliances to a highly qualified specialist.

When all the work is completed, you can invite your friends to a housewarming party. A self-built house has a special aura. It is always cozy and warm in it.

Video

We invite you to see all the stages described above. Watch the video.

One of the most interesting, popular and widely used materials for the construction of private houses and cottages is timber. The construction of a residential building from a bar requires much more modest financial investments and time costs than building a house from more familiar materials. Moreover, in the case of a timber, you can perform all construction activities with your own hands.

Before starting any work, you need to draw up a plan for your future home. If you do not have design skills, entrust this work to some third-party organization, or select suitable drawings from open sources.

Before proceeding with the design, you need to establish the optimal dimensions of the future structure. When choosing the optimal dimensions, be guided, first of all, by the available space, as well as by your personal needs.

If you have a small family and a little free space, you can give preference to a small log house with dimensions of 3x4 m. Provided that it is properly arranged, even such a small building will have enough useful space. The lack of space can be compensated for by a terrace or an attic room.

If there are no special problems with the place, but you still don't want to build a huge building, build a house with dimensions of 5x4 m.

The standard dimensions of summer and country log houses are indicators at the level of 6x6 m, 6x8 m, etc. Such a house can already be made two-story without any fear.

For the rest, focus on the conditions of your specific situation. The larger your family, the more area the house should have. In most cases, everything is limited solely by the size of the site and the available budget.

Buy a beam, the cross-section of which is as close as possible to the size of the future house. The thicker the timber is, the less money you will have to spend on thermal insulation material and sound insulation.

Usually, 200x200 mm timber is used for the construction of load-bearing walls. For the construction of a small house in a region with a mild climate, you can use a material with a section of 150x150 mm or even 100x100 mm.

In the process of assembling the walls between the rows, it is imperative to lay a seal made of flax or jute. Such a seal allows you to get rid of all the cracks and additionally insulate the walls.

Before starting construction work, be sure to study the properties of the soil on your site. It is quite difficult to cope with such work on your own - it is better to immediately contact a specialist. Additionally, you need to find out the level of passage of groundwater.

Select the length of the timber in accordance with the size of the house. The standard length of the elements is 600 cm. If the walls of your future home will be long, try to find a company that can make a bar according to your size. This will require additional financial investments, but a solid bar is superior to prefabricated elements in all respects.

The timber needs a mandatory finishing treatment with a water-repellent compound. Without such impregnation, the material will very soon begin to mold and rot, and as a result, it will completely collapse.

If it is necessary to insulate the finished house, it is best to place heat-insulating materials from the inside. Mineral wool heat insulators with the obligatory laying of a waterproofing material between the thermal insulation and the walls are excellent for insulation.

It is better not to do the outer cladding of a log house if possible - such a finish will hide all the aesthetic beauty of the building material.

Pre-calculate the required amount of materials in order to avoid problems with the implementation of an extra timber or the purchase of missing elements in the future.

First step. Determine the height of the house and calculate the perimeter of the building's walls. Take the height of the ceilings taking into account the thickness of the floors and the floor. Calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe internal and external walls, taking into account the section thickness of the timber.

Step two. Calculate the total number of bars. To do this, you need to divide the height of the house wall by the height of one element. This will tell you how many beams you need to build each wall. Calculate the length based on the length of the walls. Add up the number of beams required to build all the walls of the house.

Step three. Add to the calculated value 5-15% of the margin for scrap or unexpected damage during construction.

Initially, the walls of your house will be slightly higher than the design value. This increase will occur due to the use of an insulating pad between the crowns. Over time, the wood will shrink, and the height of the walls will be restored to design.

Home Construction Guide

Purchase the required amount of finished timber and start construction. Start by preparing the site and arranging the foundation.

Foundation

First step. Remove debris and any obstructing objects from the construction site. Mark the area with pegs driven into the ground and a rope stretched between them.

Step two. Dig a trench for your foundation. Log houses are traditionally built on strip foundations up to 80-100 cm deep. Select the specific depth taking into account the conditions of your specific situation.

Step three. Fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand and gravel. Tamp the backfill thoroughly. For better tamping, spill backfill with water.

Fourth step. Fasten the formwork to the walls of the trench.

Fifth step. Lay the reinforcement mesh over the backfill.

Sixth step. Fill the trench with concrete. Leave the foundation until fully cured (3-5 weeks).

In warm weather, the foundation will need to be watered within the first few days after pouring so that it does not crack. It is better to leave the formwork until the foundation completely solidifies. If necessary, it can be dismantled earlier, but not less than 10 days after the last moistening of the base.

First crown

First step. Coat the solidified foundation with molten bitumen and lay a layer of roofing material on it for waterproofing.

Step two. Start laying the first crown. Pre-saturate all wooden elements with an antiseptic. Traditionally, the first row of beams is laid using the "half-tree" method. To make such a connection, you need to saw off the lower part of one beam, and the upper part of the other.

Step three. Lay out the bottom crown. Adjust the bars as carefully as possible.

At the same stage, prepare wooden pins. With the help of these elements, you will connect the rows of the timber. It is advisable to make nagels from wood of the same species that was used for the manufacture of the main building elements. Make holes for the pins in advance. The optimal spacing between fasteners is 1.2-1.5 m.

Form the first row of walls and proceed to further work.

Walls

Continue to lay out the walls in even horizontal rows. Cut straight into the lower crown using the dovetail method. Place the floor beams in increments of no more than 40 cm, otherwise the floor will bend.

The walls are laid out according to an extremely simple principle: you put the beams, connect them together in the corners using the “root spike” method, connect the upper row with the lower row using dowels. Drive the dowels into about a third of the depth of the lower row of timber, i.e. using one nail, you can connect 2-3 rows at once. Be sure to lay insulation between the rows. You can use jute or moss.

Check each row with a building level. Use a sledgehammer to line the rows.

Lay out the walls of the house of the desired height in the same way. All rows laid above the lower crown are arranged according to the same principle.

There is no need to fasten the two upper rims. You will remove them before you start installing the roof and install the ceiling joists.

Start arranging the roof. If you plan to make a residential attic, use a 15x20 cm timber for the ceiling beams.Fix the beams themselves in increments of about 1-1.1 m.

Proceed with the construction of the roof structure frame. The frame includes the following elements:

Install the Mauerlat, rafters and other listed items. Attach the sheathing boards to the rafters. For lathing, use boards about 150 mm wide and 15-20 mm thick. The greatest reliability is characterized by a solid crate. For the rest, be guided by the peculiarities of your situation, taking into account the angle of inclination of the slope, the type and weight of the finish coating, etc.

In the end, it remains to lay the finishing roofing with a preliminary device of steam, heat and moisture insulating layers.

After that, if necessary, you can insulate the house and carry out finishing work. Laying communications, installing doors and window structures, lighting, furnishing and other moments - all this is at your discretion.

In the case of a kiln-dried timber, finishing can be started almost immediately after the completion of construction work. If you use a different material, you will have to wait until the wood shrinks. This takes at least 6 months.

A log house built in accordance with all building codes and recommendations will serve you well for many decades. Follow the instructions, and very soon you will be able to enjoy comfortable living in a reliable home, built with your own hands.

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself timber house

For hundreds of years, our ancestors built houses from wood, during this time a lot of new, modern building materials have appeared, but people invariably return to natural materials and the best of them is wood.

Wooden houses:

• warm,
• reliable,
• beautiful,
• durable.

But they have another important advantage, a wooden house is easy enough to build. Having 3 people who know how to use carpentry, locksmith's tools, as assistants, in one season you can build a good wooden house, from profiled or glued beams, and with your own hands.

Important: You can lay the foundation in advance, while it is warm, and build the house itself when the cold comes.

What is timber

The most popular are two types. Profiled timber is a wooden product, square or rectangular section.

The timber can be even, geometrically regular in shape. Or profiled, having a certain profile that allows you to more tightly dock the product at the mating points.

Glued laminated timber appeared relatively recently, it can be called a product of new, advanced technologies.

Visually, it looks like a profiled one. But the production technology is more complex. Glued laminated timber consists of several layers of wood, bonded using a special technology. It is more durable, more durable, easier to work with.

Important: Profiled timber can shrink up to 50 mm per 1m, depending on the dryness of the timber. Glued laminated timber shrinks, on average, 10-15 mm.

The thickness of the timber ranges from 90 mm to 275 mm.

The most popular are the profile section:

1. 100 mm by 150 mm.
2. 100 mm by 200 mm.
3. 150 mm by 200 mm.
4. 180 mm by 200 mm.

With a maximum standard length up to 12m.

Wall length

m

Wall width

m

Wall height

m

Bar section

150x150 mm. 180x180 mm. 200x200 mm.

Bar length

5 m 6 m 7 m 8 m 9 m 10 m 11 m 12 m

Preparing a project

You won't be able to build from a bar without a project.

It is no secret that there are many countries in the CIS, and the level of bureaucracy is practically the same. We provide a list of the main documents that you will need to prepare.

• A drawing of the foundation is required, a detailed description for it with a full layout according to material, composition, depth, etc. As well as detailed data on soil, composition, quality, groundwater, etc.
• The next number is the building plan. You prepare it based on the foundation drawing, but also with a detailed description.
• After that, you need a floor-by-floor, detailed plan. In it, specify in detail partitions, stoves, fireplaces, windows, doors, etc.
• Another really important document is scattering. Simply put, this is a detailed sectional drawing of the walls of a house. By scattering, you can make an order for the manufacture of a bar, it will be made and marked for you as a designer. Then just look at the numbers and collect.
• Specification of every detail of the house.
• Detailed drawing of the roof, with a detailed description of all layers.
• The final look of the house.

Please note: take seriously the description of the timber itself, what kind of wood, what kind of profile, the level of dryness of the timber, etc. This will eliminate confusion when ordering.

The package of documents is solid, of course, you can resist, although the work is painstaking, but you can do it yourself. But - advice, do not waste time. Collecting papers can take longer than the construction itself. Trust the professionals, on our site they will be happy to help you and it will cost you much cheaper than amateur performances.

Laying the foundation

To build houses from a bar, a major, expensive foundation is not required. These buildings are relatively lightweight.

For construction

1. Shallow strip foundation. This type of foundation is laid in a trench and has a maximum depth of 50 cm.
2. Mixed or strip and columnar foundation. This type is similar to tape. But in all important nodes, it has reinforcement in the form of concrete pillars.
3. Columnar. This foundation is based on pillars connected by a concrete or metal grillage.
4. On screw metal piles or screw piles. A product of modern technology. Metal, non-corrosive piles are screwed into the ground and connected with a grillage. The foundation is convenient, also because it is easy to repair.
5. On wooden piles, at this time it is rarely used since the tree, no matter how you handle it, still deteriorates in the ground.
6. On concrete piles. The foundation is excellent but expensive. To drive in a concrete pile, you will need special construction equipment.

To build from a bar, the first 4 options are enough. The instructions below, with minor amendments, are suitable for the first 3 types of foundations.

Tape

• Any foundation starts with a markup. For marking we use ordinary wooden pegs and fishing line. At a distance of 30-40 cm from the projected wall, we drive in the pegs and pull the fishing line.
• The body of the foundation will not be indicated by hammered pegs, but by a fishing line.

Important: after pulling the line, measure the diagonals. The distance along the diagonals must be exactly the same. Even the slightest discrepancy indicates incorrect angles, and you will get an asymmetrical foundation.

• We take out the soil to a depth of 50 cm. Take into account the thickness of the formwork. Control the bottom of the trench by level.
• Next, we make 2 pillows up to 10 cm each. Sand plus rubble.
• We proceed to the installation of the formwork.
• We put in waterproofing, the most budgetary option is roofing material or thick, technical polyethylene.
• We weld or knit a reinforcing, metal frame.
• We fill it with concrete, it is better to fill it all at once, in a complex manner. Order a mixer, fill the foundation in one go and wait for it to harden.
• Remove the formwork, and put a crushed stone pillow in its place.

Mixed foundation

It differs from the previous tape by the presence of reinforcing pillars at the corners of the structure and in the most stressed nodes. Therefore, to the above, instructions for filling the pillars with your own hands are added.

• We drill a hole under each pillar, to a depth of 1m.
• We make a similar blend of sand and gravel.
• We roll up a pipe from roofing material in 2-3 layers and fix it with tape.
• We insert the pipe into the pit, mount the reinforcement cage, 200 mm high above the general level of the foundation.
• Before the main fill, make the sole of the post. To do this, pour the solution into the pipe and raise the pipe, allowing the solution to spread. When the solution hardens a little, start pouring the entire foundation.

Column type foundation

The pillars in this foundation can be made from concrete as in the previous version. So go all out of bricks, in the form of a curbstone.

Only lay out the curbstone with a well, and insert the reinforcing cage inside and fill it with concrete.

Himself, the pedestals are set according to the level and the grillage is mounted on them.

The grillage can be concrete, then a formwork in the form of a bath is made on the pillars, it is waterproofed, reinforcement is installed and concrete is poured. Or it is welded from metal, which is attached to the reinforcement cage of the posts.

Making crowns

The crowns are the first row of the timber. To build a good house from a bar, carefully consider the installation of crowns.

The video in this article clearly shows the installation with dowels.

Making the floor

At this stage, you should lay the foundation of the floor, a rough version. The final finishing will be done along with the interior fittings.

If you are building a relatively small building, bathhouse or garden house. It will be quite enough for you to lay an additional belt of a bar around the perimeter, fasten it to a crown and mount logs on this belt.

But if the house occupies a large area, the approach will be slightly different.

With a large square, separate pedestals should be laid out to support the floor, something similar to a separate foundation for the floor.

• Depending on the composition of the soil, we lay the columns to a depth of half a meter.
• We make them square 40x40 or 50x50. The step of the bookmark is from 50 to 90 cm.
• In layers up to about 10 cm, we lay and tamp the sand and crushed stone.
• We make a small reinforcement cage, up to 10 cm high, install it and fill it with concrete.
• Next, we waterproof this base and lay out the brick cabinet, up to the level of the beams.
• Lay down the waterproofing again and install the beams.
• We grab the logs to the beams with self-tapping screws.
• Between the logs, using a corner, we mount waterproof plywood.
• We waterproof and tape all joints.
• We put insulation on top and cover with a rough floor.

Building the walls

If you did everything correctly before that, then it will not be difficult for you to build walls from a bar with your own hands.

• The profiled timber already has special grooves, they will facilitate the connection.
• Do the corner connection as you like, there are 3 types of corner connection:

1. End to end.
2. Half a tree.
3. By means of a root thorn.

• Be sure to lay insulation between the timber.
• Check each laid beam by level and fix it with a dowel.
• Leave technological gaps for shrinkage in the window area.

Important: when you put a load-bearing wall or support columns under the roof in the house, you should not rigidly attach them to the roof at first. Grab with self-tapping screws and enough. When the house starts to sit down and walk you will have to adjust the height of the support. When it sits down, fix it completely.

This video will tell you about the intricacies of wall construction.

We start installing the roof

The roof is a rather important stage of construction, but you can mount it yourself.

• First, knock down a template from light boards. On it you will install the rafters.
• Next, we set the beginning and end of the structure according to the template.
• Between the installed rafters, at the control points, according to the level, we stretch the strings from the fishing line.
• Guided by the strings, controlling the level and template, we mount the rest of the rafters.
• We fill the crate on top and fasten it under the bottom with a styler, overlapping the vapor barrier.
• We put insulation under the vapor barrier, between the rafters, close it with another layer of vapor barrier.
• Next, we finally fix it with the bottom layer of the crate; it is already possible to attach the cladding to it according to your taste and wallet.
• From above, the most budgetary option is to cover the upper roofing felt lathing and over it slate sheets.