How to make a plasterboard ledge. Installation instructions for plasterboard structures on the wall using an example with a photo

Plasterboard sheets can:

• sheathe any surface;
• hide those places that spoil the interior for you, especially for toilets and baths;
• make drywall shelves and place various objects on them;
• install partitions, thereby creating a full-fledged room;
• mount niches for TV or other structural elements.

For craftsmen who like to craft with their own hands and create comfort in the home on their own, drywall in combination with a metal profile has become simply an irreplaceable material, as it has amazing qualities:

1. Ecologically pure.
2. It makes it possible to change the space without using "wet" processes and rather quickly.
3. Long lasting.
4. It is mounted on a frame made of wood or metal.
5. There is a possibility of frameless installation.
6. Suitable for any facing material.
7. Easy to cut.
8. The design of plasterboard walls makes it possible to use various configurations in the interior.
9. The cost of the material is low.

So, if you have a passionate desire to create a cozy atmosphere in your home, then you will certainly need step-by-step instructions for the installation of certain structural elements.

The device of the box made of plasterboard and metal profile

Many of us want to close the pipes in the bathroom, hide the sewer in the toilet or get rid of the risers that spoil the interior of the room with their appearance. A drywall construction, which is called a box, will cope well with this task.

This element makes it possible to get rid of the unattractive appearance of communication systems. No one sees a riser with hot or cold water, but it continues to perform its direct functions.

Depending on the wishes, potential and location of the highways, the riser can be closed:

1. The whole wall.
2. Only pipes.

In the first case, sewing up the entire plane, we reduce the usable area, although it is possible to mount shelves or niches for storing various items and things. In the second, we close only those sections where the pipes pass. This option is the most acceptable, since the installation takes place quite quickly and makes it possible to save money on the purchase of material.

Thinking about how to visually remove the communications maintenance system, you need to remember that if it breaks down, you will have to break, if not the entire structure, then at least part. And this will ruin the decoration of the room and you will have to make repairs again.

The box in the toilet can be made collapsible, this option is not used so often, or you can install small doors (hatches) to access communication elements (valves, meter, fittings).

Remember that most often problems occur at the joints - the fewer their number, the easier it is to operate the pipeline. Before starting the work, conduct a thorough inspection of the line. If there are defects, eliminate them, get rid of rust (if any).

You can not be afraid of leaks and can safely close sealed or welded joints. And the threaded connections should be left open.

Materials and tools

If you need to close unattractive places yourself, you need to know how to make a pipe box in the bathroom and choose the right material. Since there is always high humidity in the bathroom, not all materials are suitable for work. They must meet the established requirements:

• to be resistant to moisture;
• have little weight;
• made from environmentally friendly components.

Let's say you have to change the paper wallpaper in the bathroom after a couple of months, which means that tile is best suited for cladding. And where to fix it if there is no foundation. It is best to use a metal profile rather than wooden blocks. The latter will begin to deteriorate over time, especially if they are in a humid environment. In this option, it is necessary to choose a breed that is resistant to decay and treat the surface with an antiseptic.

But nothing will happen to the metal. It will last a long time. More details on the technical characteristics of the profiles can be found in the article "". Select fasteners according to the article "", they are produced according to GOST 11652-80, 10619-80.

For work, you will need the products that are shown in the figure.

Prepare from tools and fixtures.

Determining the dimensions of the structure

It is necessary to determine the place in the room where the pipe box will be installed. All measurements are performed using a tape measure. First, we will make a drawing on paper, which will show the future structure with all the elements and technological hatches. You need to know that in the places of their abutment you need to make reinforcements from the profiles. The future structure must be reliable and sturdy.

Box drawing

If you have to close the pipes that are located in the corner of the room, then the box will have two edges, and if the riser is sewn up in the middle of the wall - three.

On the drawing, mark all types of connections, indicate the installation scheme for the profiles. Now you can definitely purchase the necessary elements and correctly calculate the material for work.

The distance between the pipe and the box must not be less than 30 mm.

Markup

Before making a drywall box, you need to find the most protruding places of the riser, which will set the boundary of the future structure, and mark them. From the base point on the ceiling, use a square to draw perpendiculars to the walls. The resulting rectangle should cover all the protrusions of the riser. Next, we lower the plumb line from the point and the touching mark shows the base mark on the floor. From it we draw perpendiculars to the walls.

Now we connect the lines along the wall and get a straight line on which we will install the rack-mount profile.

Frame installation

The profiles should be mounted to the wall taking into account the finishing materials so that they do not closely adhere to the pipes.

We drill holes with a drill, where then we hammer in plastic dowels with a hammer. We fasten the rack profile (27x28) with screws to the wall, and the guide (27x60) to the ceiling and floor. Install the front edge of the box. It is obtained at the intersection of the guide profiles along the ceiling and floor. This is done with a cutter or self-tapping screws.

If the width of the box is more than 250 mm or its height is more than 1500 mm, it is necessary to install cross-bars between the uprights. They are installed at a distance of no more than 1000 mm and serve as stiffeners for the structure. In addition, drywall sheets are then mounted on them.

All attachment points should be located on one straight line with the formation of an integral solid plane for the edges of the structure, otherwise distortions are likely to occur.

A plasterboard box in the bathroom and toilet is assembled according to the same principle. Its installation is quick, the construction is compact, the distance from the profile to the pipe is not less than 50-60 mm.

Plasterboard installation

Before closing the pipes with drywall, it is necessary to cut the sheet so that the box is covered by strips, and not pieces. Pre-cut off the side edges, their width is equal to the width of the frame. The sheet cannot protrude beyond the edge of the rack. To do this, you can use a roughing plane.

Now we measure the exact size of the remaining edge and cut off a strip of drywall so that it is on the edges of the side strips. We fasten the drywall to the profile with self-tapping screws (35-45 mm) every 150-250 mm to the main posts. Just don't forget about the inspection hatches. You can buy them in the store, the manufacturers offer a large selection of different sizes. And how to cut holes in drywall, you will learn in another section of this article. This completes the installation of the box.

After you have made a box of drywall with your own hands, you can proceed to putty. And what finishing materials you use to create a pleasant interior - tiles, paint or plaster - you choose.

We make drywall shelves

When working with plasterboard, it is not always possible to avoid waste: they made a mistake in calculating the volumes or changed the project during the repair. There may be various reasons. Some stores are ready to accept large pieces, but not everyone is so lucky, this is rather an exception to the rule.

If you are a craftsman, do not rush to take the leftovers to the garage, but decorate the interior of your house. Make the environment more comfortable and get rid of old furniture. Believe me, a drywall shelf will definitely find its use in a living room, bedroom or hallway and can:

• be an element of decor in the room;
• storage place for things, books, interior accessories;
• a pedestal for collectibles;

A drywall TV shelf is not a dream, but a reality. You just need to choose the right profile and use the sheet in two layers. However, modern TVs are not that heavy, and a beautiful shelf can be the perfect place for a plasma display.

How to make drywall shelves with your own hands, we will tell in this section. The whole process consists of certain stages.

We need tools.

From materials you will need:

1. Drywall, preferably 12.5 mm thick. If you plan to install a shelf in a room with high humidity, then you should take a moisture-resistant - GKLV (moisture-resistant drywall).
2. Metal profiles - guides and rack.
3. Fasteners - screws, self-tapping screws, dowels, wedge anchor, special fasteners.

Drawing

Before starting work, you need to know exactly what functions the shelf has to perform, whether it is worth strengthening it with additional jumpers or not. If there are heavy objects on it, then the frame must be strong enough. Next, imagine how it will look and transfer your wishes to paper. Don't forget the exact dimensions.

The calculation of the volume of material used depends on this.

You need to start with simpler structures - with the manufacture of straight shelves. And in the future, already experiment with more complex configurations and projects.

Markup

Having determined the place where the drywall shelf should be, we begin the marking. In work, use a tape measure, a square. Do not forget about the thickness of the cladding of the finished product.

Unfortunately, modern apartments cannot boast of flat wall surfaces, horizontal floors and ceilings, or perfect angles. Therefore, the building level should be with you constantly.

We postpone the dimensions strictly according to the drawing. The quality of the future structure, its appearance and strength depends on how the horizontal and vertical lines are drawn correctly.

Shelf assembly

You can already install profiles according to the marked grid. The process itself depends on the configuration of the structure. First, horizontal or vertical parts are mounted. According to the plan, which is shown in the subsection "Drawing", we begin to work with a vertical rack.

To do this, we drill a hole for the dowels, with their help we will fix the rack profile (27x28) to the wall. There should be three or more of them per piece. We check the position with a level and hammer in the part using a 6x40 wedge anchor. We combine with each other with self-tapping screws or a cutter with a guide profile (27x60). On the right side, we fasten a strip of drywall with a step of 150-250 mm. The second sidewall, like all subsequent ones, is assembled in the same way.

Next, we mount the frame between the vertical posts, for this, we attach the rack profile along the marked lines, and the guide, which is adjacent to the plasterboard sheet, is fixed with self-tapping screws along the edges, scrolling the gypsum and the back profile through to the profile. In this case, in the frame of the part on which the sheet is fixed (namely, to which these screws are twisted), a profile should be laid in a horizontal position - as on the partition, but in this case it is used as the main part of the supporting structure of the shelf. So the shelves will hold firmly and reliably, this will be facilitated by drywall blanks screwed to the frame from the second side.

Ultimately, the process of installing a drywall shelf will end with such a structure that you can see in the photo, or another that you come up with yourself.

Then you can putty the seams, fill up the holes from the caps of the self-tapping screws, prime the surface and cover the shelf. If desired, it is ennobled with mirror panels, other materials are used, or simply coated with paint to match the colors of the room.

It is necessary to screw the profiles to brick, concrete and plastered surfaces using dowels-nails or anchor-wedges, if it is a hard surface. If the wall is made of aerated concrete, then you need to use special fasteners, and if the surface is made of plasterboard, use other hardware, which you can read about in the article "". When you have a wooden base, then you need to take wood screws for work.

You can mount drywall shelves in a room where repairs have already been made. True, in this case you have to work more carefully, especially with the markup, because corrections are fraught with the fact that the marks will be visible on the cladding. The work is carried out in the same order, only it is better to cut drywall and profiles not in a renovated room. The installation process will be much easier if the work is carried out during the repair. In this version, you will be able to comply with all design rules, and the new element will harmoniously and effectively fit into the interior.

How and what to cut drywall

1. Gypsum core

2. Cardboard shell

As you can see in the picture, this is a sandwich consisting of a gypsum core and two layers of cardboard. Gypsum itself is a fragile material. But thanks to special additives and reinforcement on both sides with cardboard, which is impregnated with a special composition, the sheet is able to withstand sufficient loads. It is produced by GOST 6266-97, its characteristics and technical indicators can be found in the article "".

It is easy and interesting to work with this material. Can:

• make a shelf or niche for a TV from drywall yourself;
• install a curly partition;
• hide what you don't really want to see;
• put things that you are proud of on public display.

To create masterpieces that will decorate any home, you just need to have imagination, manufacturing information and be able to handle drywall. As for the latter, the skill lies in knowing how and how to cut it. Indeed, during the repair process, you need to cut out broken lines, cut a sheet in a straight line or make holes.

To cut drywall, you need:

• pencil,
• roulette,
• angle ruler,
• preferably a bus
• if there is a large amount of work - a roughing plane.

With this material for work, it is better to use not a marker or a pen, but a pencil, its traces are not visible after putty, which cannot be said about the items listed. The plane is needed to align the curved edges of the gypsum board. The surface for working with plasterboard should be flat - most often it is a stack of sheets, a floor, and ideally a large table.

Now about the tools. The blades must be sharp, they must be kept perpendicular to the sheet, only in this case you will get an even and smooth cut.

In a straight line

For this purpose, a special drywall knife or an ordinary construction knife (clerical) is useful. These tools are good because they have adjustable blade length. And this is required in order not to cut through the second layer of cardboard.

Before cutting the sheet, we carefully measure with a tape measure or ruler. With a pencil, put marks on the sheet and connect them with a common line. Immediately, without removing the ruler, we draw with a knife along the marked line. The depth of the cut should be such that the knife blade does not reach the second layer of cardboard.

It is enough to cut only the cardboard, and the gypsum will break without effort along the cut line.

Now we move the sheet to the edge of the table and lightly tap the cut line with our fist. We bend it carefully, it breaks along the notch line, and the halves of the sheet are held by a whole layer of cardboard. Cut the sheet from the back with a knife, and clean the cut with a roughing plane.

Curvilinear shapes

The most practical tool for this work is a jigsaw. True, you can use a hacksaw or a knife, but the cuts will be rough, you will have to spend a lot of time to put them in order. The jigsaw will cope with any curvilinear shapes.

First, we lay the sheet in such a way that the cut out place is located on the weight or between two objects at a slight distance from each other.

When working, the tool blade should not be in the way.

We draw the outline of the figure with a pencil and, after putting on personal protective equipment, since there will be a lot of dust in the process, we start cutting the sheet. Cut lines are of high quality, even and smooth.

Round shapes

Often it is necessary to cut a circle in drywall. Of course, they can be cut with a jigsaw or a construction knife. But the end result is unlikely to please, and a lot of time and nerves will be spent on the work. It is more convenient to make holes for sockets or light bulbs using a crown, which is attached to the holder of an electric drill. These kits are sold in any hardware store and have different diameters.

Previously, we make the necessary markup on the sheet - the location of the future hole - and outline the center. We select the crown by size, fix it in the drill chuck. Place the drill in the center of the hole and start drilling.

To get quality work, cut at medium speed, take your time, gently pushing on the drill. With strong pressure, the tip will get stuck in the cast.

Rectangular shapes

Often, when working with drywall, you have to cut rectangular holes in the sheet (for sockets, technical hatches). This is especially necessary in the manufacture of boxes, which are used to close the risers and pipes. A hacksaw is useful for this.

Please note that to work with drywall sheets, you need to take a sheet for metal. His teeth are smaller, so the work will be done faster and better.

We put the sheet on a support, make the necessary measurements and along the marked line, where it is required to cut drywall, we make cuts with a hacksaw. We start from any angle and then cut out the desired shape.

No matter how hard we try, it is not always possible to make the edges of the drywall smooth. This defect affects not only the aesthetic appearance, but also the quality of the work performed. Parts do not fit tightly to each other, violating the integrity of the structure.

For work with drywall, a roughing plane is useful. This professional tool is worth getting for anyone who works with this material. It is inexpensive and needed for high-quality processing of cut edges. It is performed according to GOST 21445-84.

It's easy enough for them to work. It is necessary to put the sheet so that it is convenient to process its edge - end up, you can put it on its side. Place the plane on a sheet cut and draw it along its entire length. It is not worth pressing the handle too much, since with strong pressure the tool will go deep into the drywall and you will have to remove a large cut or as a result you will get an uneven end.

Movements should be as light as possible, in two or three passes. The surface of the planer must often be cleaned of plaster - turn the tool over and lightly tap the body with your palm.

We make a niche in the wall of drywall

Well-designed and well-installed niches in a plasterboard wall can replace furniture sets. They are performed:

• in horizontal or vertical design;
• in the floor version, where it is possible to place a decorative fireplace, a vase of flowers, decor details more than 1 m high;
• on the whole wall or just a small area;
• with and without illumination;
• closed or open.

This structural element can be different, its configuration depends on your invention and wishes, and the design can be complemented by plastic or mirror material with decorative lamps.

In addition, a plasterboard niche is not only an element of decor, but also makes it possible to hide electrical wiring, utilities or remove objects from prying eyes that others do not need to know about. Sometimes the owners use this privilege so skillfully that they can safely go on vacation without worrying about their jewelry. Or they skillfully disguise the technical life support systems of the house.

Tools

In order to build a niche, you need to have the following tools to work.

Drawing

It is clear that not everyone graduated from a civil engineering university or has experience working with drawings. But any drywall constructions that you plan to make with your own hands imply that they will be performed strictly in size. This means that a drawing to scale is required. No need to master computer programs or call a draftsman from an architectural office. It is enough to sketch a diagram by hand, indicate all dimensions and design features. It is impossible to make a niche without a diagram. Let it represent a simple drawing, but the size of the wall, the location of the radiators, furniture, electrical outlets, if necessary, according to the conceived project, will be indicated here. With a correctly drawn up drawing, all cases of alteration of the structure are excluded.

A sketch of thoughts on paper or a "blueprint"

Without effective lighting, the niche will give the impression of a dark hole. This means you need to create a special background around it (mirrors, glossy ceramics) or install lighting that visually expands the niche space.

Consider the location of the lighting fixtures. All this must be taken into account in the drawing and when calculating the volume of materials. Clarify the size and depth of the niche. Be sure to consider the location of the furniture so that it does not block the opening.

When drawing up a drawing, be sure to take into account the thickness of the profile. After all, its dimensions are a constituent part of the dimensions of the future structure in height and width.

Are you planning to install household appliances in a niche - pay attention to the dimensions of the structure. Design the space of such a niche slightly larger than the size of the device - for cooling equipment with air and access to communications.

Markup

It is carried out strictly in size and using a building level. Mark the middle with a pencil on the wall and draw the entire drawing symmetrically from it with the length and width of the structure.

If you want to place a niche in the center of the wall, then strictly follow that there is an equal distance along the edges. If symmetry is broken, the niche will not fit into the interior of the room.

Having outlined the contours of the structure under construction on the wall, you already know along which lines you need to mount the profile guides.

Provide as detailed markup as possible. On the wall, indicate all the marks for fixing the frame made of the metal profile.

At this stage, consider routing electrical cables and installing outlets. Planning backlit shelves - consider additional equipment.

Frame installation

Having cut the profiles to size, we begin to assemble the frame.

We check each installed profile with a level, because the slightest discrepancy will ruin the entire structure.

We fasten the guide profile with dowels along the perimeter of the drawing transferred to the wall, along the depth of our niche, on the floor and ceiling - 300-400 mm, strictly perpendicular to the wall. The step is 400-600 mm.

self-tapping screws or a cutter. In the places of future shelves, we install jumpers from the rack-mount profile. Our do-it-yourself drywall niche should come out with wide shelves, on which the additional and basic equipment that we plan to place there can easily fit. The frame is strong enough and the profile is reliable.

Plasterboard installation

Now you need to fix the sheets to the profile. We do this using self-tapping screws (35-45 mm) with a pitch of 250 mm. We recessed the head of the fastener in the sheet by 1 mm. Less is impossible, because it will interfere with putty, and more is also not recommended - the sheet may crack. The edge of the drywall sheet must be flush with the profile, the excess is removed.

The result is a backlit plasterboard niche. The costs of beauty and comfort always pay off, because they are a long-term investment of money. Therefore, we do not spare money. After sheathing the frame with plasterboard, putty and primer, the surface is ready for further finishing work.

Attention is paid to the design of the ceiling, various solutions are used to embody the design idea. Each of the selected options has advantages and disadvantages. The plasterboard ceiling with illumination is popular.

The plasterboard ceiling with illumination is a popular design solution. The use of a backlit gypsum plasterboard structure solves a lot of questions regarding room lighting, direct light power control.

The installation of illuminated gypsum plasterboard structures has a number of positive aspects:

• purchase of a flat ceiling covering;
• no preparation is required before installing the plasterboard ceiling;
• easy to hide communications;
• multilevel structures with illumination are created;
• correctly selected lighting will emphasize the interior of the room;
• plasterboard ceiling decoration embodies a design of any complexity with lighting, built-in niches for lighting;
• excellent sound and heat insulation;
• the plasterboard ceiling is installed dry, which means that time is not wasted on drying the solution.

The plasterboard ceiling also has disadvantages:

• the ceiling will drop by 10 cm;
• installing drywall structures is simple, but requires experience with electricity.

Important! Electrical skills are a must. Since a properly made fastening of the plasterboard coating will protect the structure from unexpected short circuits, and therefore from fire.

When planning the construction of a backlit gypsum board structure, pay attention to the following points:

• lighting (backlighting) is best done for some areas;
• think over to the smallest details the orientation of the illumination;
• correctly positioned illumination will help to adjust the proportionality of the room. Thanks to the direction of light, you can visually expand the room;
• if the room has different fully functional zones, then it is better to install separate lighting fixtures;
• if the room is small in size, then you should not choose multi-level structures;
• before fixing the ceiling from drywall sheets, make a clear design drawing.

Types of lighting devices

To make the right choice of lighting fixtures, you need to know their types.

Main types:

• point;
• lED lighting devices;
• fluorescent lamps;
• lED strips;
• fiber optic lamps.

Spotlights. The popularity of this kind of lighting devices is growing every year. Spot lighting is a variety of low power lighting fixtures.

The main advantages:

• if necessary, partial lighting;
• uniform lighting of the room;
• profitability;
• thanks to their compact dimensions, they will harmoniously fit into the interior;
• point lighting devices scatter light at a slight angle;
• quality of light;
• lifetime;
• excellent color palette of light delivery;
• availability.

Spotlights also have a number of disadvantages:

• it is difficult to independently make the necessary design and direct organization;
• many types of spotlights require a special design;
• when the spotlight overheats, the flow may deform.

Fluorescent lamps are used for non-residential premises. The advantage of this kind of lighting fixtures is availability and ease of installation, long service life, and economy.

Fiber optic luminaires are an innovation in the lighting world. Thanks to them, it is possible to bring to life bold design ideas: the starry sky, moving overflows. Overlapping with such lamps is expensive and time consuming.

LED strips are a common method of ceiling decoration. The device of the LED strip provides for the installation of a niche from the gypsum board. A niche is a kind of ledge on which lighting devices are mounted.

There are two types of LED strip:

• single color;
• full color.

LED strip has a number of positive aspects:

• divided into segments;

Important! The functionality remains unchanged when the tape is cut.

• reliability;
• profitability;
• durability;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of operation and installation. The sticky layer fixes the tape to the surface.

How to choose LED strip correctly?

The tape is used both indoors and outdoors: for this, sealed and non-sealed LED strips are provided.

Important! When installing this kind of lighting fixture in a room with a high percentage of humidity, choose a sealed material. When such a tape is used for decoration purposes, a leaky one will do.

When choosing an LED strip, pay attention to whether it is waterproof or not.

Plasterboard ledge

Equipping the ceiling with a suspended structure made of gypsum plasterboard provides for work on lighting and illumination.

The overlap of plasterboard sheets with illumination has a number of positive aspects:

• The thermal radiation of the devices does not play a special role. Since the drywall and the profile used to create the skeleton are heat resistant.
• The stability of the structure allows you to install lighting fixtures to the frame profile.
• Thanks to the plasterboard coating, you can hide all the flaws in the room.

Important! Before installing the plasterboard covering, find out the exact location of all lighting fixtures.

Backlight location

Consider the location of the LED backlight power supply before installation. Since this element is rather large, it is worth considering its heating. Based on this, it is necessary to fix the power supply in an easily accessible place.

Think over the desired nuance - heat removal. Before starting work, connect all electrical wires to the power source.

Installation rules

• • Sheathe the base ceiling with plasterboard.
  • The second level of the required design is being built for direct mounting of the backlight.
  • The second tier is fastened to the guides through the drywall. This nuance cannot be overlooked, since the strength of the entire structure depends on it. Since drywall will not hold the second level of the building without insurance.
  • Mark on the wall. It is necessary for attaching a special metal profile. It is worth deviating from the ceiling relative to the size of the future structure. If the markup is done correctly, the result will be a regular rectangle.

  Important! For marking, it is necessary to use a level and a tape measure in order to correctly outline the lines for the special profile, from which the skeleton will be formed - the base for the protrusion.

  • The work on installing the frame for drywall must begin with a guide (ceiling) special profile. The profile is fastened by means of screws (pitch 30 - 40 cm). The profile shelves are directed downwards from the cover and parallel to the floor on the wall.

• Observing the required format, sections and racks are cut and fixed horizontally. For these purposes, a CD profile is used.
• Pieces of the main profile are attached to the starting special profile on the surface after 40 -50 cm. When carrying out such work, it is worthwhile to clearly monitor that the footage of the pieces is a uniform distance from the ceiling to the baseline.
• The wall-mounted special profile must be connected with suspensions from the main profile;
• After installation in the frame of the necessary ceiling special profiles, the base will acquire rigidity.

Facing the skeleton of the structure with plasterboard

Facing of the central covering is made with drywall sheets.

After the skeleton, on which the plasterboard covering will be attached, is installed, it is necessary to sheathe it with plasterboard:

• sheets are trimmed, acquiring the required dimensions;
• the finished drywall is attached to the skeleton with self-tapping screws;
• after fixing the gypsum board, the joints are glued with a special reinforcing tape.
• all joints and attachment points are puttyed with self-tapping screws.

Important! When the installation is complete, you can proceed to wiring. For safety, electrical wiring must be hidden in plastic boxes. The resulting boxes are attached with self-tapping screws to the base coating.

After carrying out the necessary manipulations with the wiring, you can proceed to plastering the ledge with drywall. The cladding begins with the installation of a strip of drywall on the niche shelf. For these purposes, self-tapping screws and a screwdriver are required. In most cases, the base coat is veneered with solid sheets. The box is finished with narrow strips of drywall, which are fixed with self-tapping screws. After that, the vertical part of the structure is sheathed. The required piece of sheet is attached to the racks - hangers and a special profile guide on the ceiling. It is necessary to install drywall so that its joints are on the racks. Then the horizontal part of the structure is sheathed. The final stage of installation is the installation of the side, the task of which is to hide the backlight. It should be noted that the side (its upper part) must be at least 50 mm from the ceiling.

The final stage of facing the ledge is the putty of the ledges and seams formed from the self-tapping screws. Existing joints must be sealed with a reinforcing mesh. The necessary manipulations with the seams take place in several stages. First, putty is applied in a small layer. After the putty dries, the surface is sanded. The procedure is repeated, but the finishing (finer) putty is already applied.

Then the structure is primed and painted.

Backlight setting

If the choice fell on an open ledge, then it is best to take an LED strip as a backlight. Because the tape is quite flexible and can take any shape.

Before proceeding with the installation of the LED strip, you need to prepare it:

• Cut a piece of tape to the desired length. It is necessary to cut the tape only in special places, which are marked with additional markings.
• Pieces of tape can be connected into a single whole using special connectors. If there is no such device, all manipulations are done with a soldering iron. To do this, you need to solder the tape contacts.

Important! If the sections are more than 7m, it is better to connect the tapes in parallel.

The backlighting will be uniform if:

• polarity is taken into account when connecting LED strips;
• when connecting a color tape, the required controller is used.

Manufacturers apply a self-adhesive backing to the lighting fixtures to make them easier to install. Before purchasing devices, decide on the color, since the color palette is extensive. There are RGB tapes. The advantage of such products is the color scale, the ability to independently adjust the brightness of the glow. The downside is the cost.

Dimmers are used to transform the brightness of the glow. Dimmers should not be selected individually for the selected type of tape, since they are suitable for all types. The ribbons are distinguished by the number of LEDs per meter. The higher the amount, the more intense the glow.

Backlight connection

LED strips operate at a voltage of 12 V. If the lighting fixture is connected to a standard line, it will simply burn out.

To correctly choose the right power supply, make the calculations. The power of one meter of LED strip is indicated by the manufacturer. To calculate the indicated power, multiply by the footage of the LED strip. The resulting number corresponds to the required power supply.

Important! A correctly selected power supply will allow the lighting device to work for a long time and correctly.

Please note that the length of the LED strip should not exceed 5 m. If the length is longer, in this case, connect the 5 m sections in parallel to each other.

LED illumination of plasterboard ceiling - an interesting design technique

You can make your own plasterboard ceiling coverings with illumination. To do this, study the questions about mounting and installing the backlight. A skillfully executed plasterboard ceiling will skillfully accentuate the interior.

Various niches (with decorative lighting or simply highlighted in color), ledges and shelves formed by wall elements and having both the correct and the most bizarre shapes - diversify and complement the design of the room, hide technological communications, brighten up the possible nondescript contours of the original layout of the room. Non-standard solutions allow you to add individuality, set the "mood" of the whole room or part of it: create a cozy corner in the room or, on the contrary, emphasize the business aspect of the room.

Protrusions and niches, of course, can be made of bricks and various blocks, bent elements can be molded from papier-mâché or cast from plaster, but in 99% of cases the task is solved easier and more economically - with the help of plasterboard structures. It is not difficult to mount drywall structures on the wall with your own hands; you will need a little patience and perseverance.

To create drywall structures on the wall, you will need materials:

• UD-profile (the so-called "guide");
• plasterboard sheets 9mm thick ("ceiling");
• corner protection profile;
• a box of screws for a profile (so-called "bugs");
• a box of screws for attaching drywall to the profile;
• fine-grained gypsum plaster for final finishing ("finish");
• it is possible to pack sets of dowels for fixing to a concrete / brick wall, if required.

From the tool, you must have:

• scissors for metal for working with a profile;
• screwdriver;
• extended tip of a screwdriver (can be made from an inexpensive suitable screwdriver by breaking the handle);
• long metal ruler;
• construction knife (with replaceable breakaway blades);
• wide roller with a long nap (for wetting drywall).

The possibilities of the forms of drywall structures are wide, but not limitless. Our future structure must be mentally divided into its constituent parts - individual elements that will have their own separate frame from the profile. Individual elements can have the shape of a parallelepiped, a truncated pyramid, a sector, an arc - it all depends on your imagination.

The edges of the elements can be flat or arched. Moreover, an arc can be two faces at once, and an arc can have several bends. The minimum thickness of such an element is limited by the width of the base (or edge) of the UD-profile + the thickness of the drywall sheet. The maximum size is limited by the imagination and the size of the room.

I will describe the step-by-step procedure for installing plasterboard wall structures of different complexity using the example of the wall of an apartment in a monolithic house, in which the supporting columns protrude from the wall by 250 mm from the builders, forming not very attractive rectangular niches.

In the area of \u200b\u200bthe left niche in the room, a place for rest and communication of the family was designed - hence the place of the TV in this niche. Around the TV we design simple rectangular shelves in 2 rows. We will have backlit shelves. We decorate the top of the niche with an arch.

Photo of niches and drywall shelves for example -

The niche will be two shades darker, and the color is slightly colder than the rest of the walls, which will visually make the niche deeper and the room larger. Before starting work, we lay the wiring for future illumination, power supply of the TV and related devices, wiring of the speaker system, Internet and TV cables. In the area of \u200b\u200bthe right niche in the room there is a working corner with a table, space for a laptop, shelves with office equipment and books above the table. It turns out such a nook-office.

We decorate the right niche with a wide narrow arc with narrow decorative shelves, leaving room for a bookshelf. Although the "recreation area" and the "study" are planned to be separated by a narrow long aquarium, the design of the structures of the two niches harmoniously overlaps, forming one whole.

This is achieved by keeping the same level for the key points of the two structures. For example, the top edge of the bottom shelf on the left is flush with the bottom edge of the arc on the right, and the top edge of the bottom shelf on the right is aligned with the top edge of the top shelf on the left, and so on.

It is not noticeable with an unarmed look, but our subconscious mind fixes this fact, unmistakably capturing the ordered in the seemingly disordered. Without a drawing, it will not be possible to maintain such proportions - every millimeter is important, especially for curved surfaces.

Thus, we get 3 types of structures, different in the complexity of manufacture, the combination and modification of which can be used to obtain almost any conceived structure:

• rectangular shelf;
• arch;
• thin decorative arch.

Rectangular shelf

The rectangular shelf is the simplest structure on a plasterboard wall. The installation technology is the same as in the manufacture of a plasterboard box: a frame is made from a UD profile directly on the wall. To do this, first we fasten the contour rectangle of our future shelf to the wall. We make the frame parallel to the wall of the face, fasten the edges of the frame perpendicular to the wall. The frame is ready.

You should not overdo it with additional partitions in the frame, it is enough to make only the ribs. The frame itself may not be rigid enough, but sheathing the edges of the shelf with plasterboard, we will give the structure the necessary rigidity.

Use a level when installing. Overlapped and skewed edges look terrible, unless, of course, this is provided for by the design. So you have to work hard with precision, both with the implementation of the frame, and with cutting and screwing drywall. Minor defects will be hidden with putty, but it is much easier to avoid these defects than then apply layer by layer of putty in an attempt to rectify the situation.

Cutting drywall exactly as easy as shelling pears. You will need a long metal ruler and a construction knife. We draw a knife along the ruler from the edge of the slab to the next edge, cutting the cardboard layer. At the edge of the table we break the plaster slab - the break will be along the cut line. We cut the cardboard from the opposite edge along the break. The perforated corner profile protecting the corners does not need to be screwed on. It is glued to the putty and closed with it.

Arch

The arch is a little more difficult to make than a rectangular shelf, but the principle is the same, except for the bent edge. It should be noted that for curly structures there is a special drywall sheet with notches and an elastic backing. However, such material is much more expensive, and you can't buy it everywhere. We'll get by with a 9mm thick ceiling tile.

We need a template for applying the bend contour to the wall and drywall sheet. To make a template, we print our drawing in natural size, glue the sheets and cut out the template. We make the frame for the bent edge from the same UD profile, but cut the side edges of the profile symmetrically to the base with a step of ~ 40 mm. It turns out such a flexible "ridge of a lizard with spikes" from the base of the profile and protruding rectangles - ribs.

For these same rectangles we fasten the profile to the wall, orienting the base of the profile along the contour previously drawn on the wall. The edge of the structure parallel to the wall is assembled directly on the drywall sheet along the applied bend contour, we cut off the excess material at the bend directly along the frame. We collect the box, in the end we leave only the bent edge.

We will bend the drywall sheet with ordinary water - just moisten the side of the sheet with a roller, which will be with a large radius. Before starting the installation of the bent edge, it is necessary to install the support for the sheet from the edge from which we begin to bend - a wooden block or a piece of profile will do. Is the screwdriver charged, are the screws handy? Getting started!

Everything needs to be done quickly and the first time. Only cardboard and the nearest layer of gypsum should get wet. If the sheet is waterlogged, the gypsum will become loose, it will crumble, and the screws will push the sheet with their heads and pass through. After all, the sheet, like a spring, will try to take an even position. A too dry leaf will break. So we go through a roller, abundantly moistened with water (what would flow), quickly apply the sheet to the stop and, pressing it to the frame, quickly fasten the sheet with a small step, bending the sheet step by step more and more. We go parallel on two sides to avoid skewing. If everything is done correctly, and the bending radius is not extremely small, then problems should not arise. Using this method, we can also perform an S-shaped bend, if your design requires it.

Thin decorative arch

The arc differs in installation from the arch in that it has two curved edges. Exactly so much the arc is more difficult to make than the arch. The design assumed a 60 mm arc thickness. Therefore, a profile with a base of 40mm was chosen, and the cuts on the profile were made along one of the ribs and the base. That is, the second rib of the profile remained the bearing element of the profile.

The rest of the procedure is the same with the installation of the arch. In our case, the edge of the arc with a large radius at the extreme points is close to the wall. This means that it will not work to mount the structure directly on the wall. The wall will prevent screws from being tightened at the edges of the arc. We mount the arc on a temporary base, for example on a wooden board or an old door. We give the drywall to dry thoroughly. We unscrew the edge parallel to the shield, unscrew the structure from the temporary base and transfer the finished structure to the wall.

Decorative coating

Matt paint perfectly emphasizes the grace of drywall structures on the wall and is the easiest decorative coating to apply. It's just as easy to choose a dark and cool base color to highlight or accentuate a design. However, wall paint just as well emphasizes all defects, especially shells when putty.

Decorative plaster is an excellent alternative in this case, it hides minor defects, you can flexibly select the color, but it is more expensive and more difficult to apply. Wallpaper can also be used, but provided that the drywall structure is not very complex in shape, otherwise this process threatens to turn into a very difficult task.

Express your personality! Hope this article helps you.

Most builders point out that during the renovation of an apartment or house, one of the most difficult processes is how to make a ceiling from plaster or any other material.

The unevenness of various slabs, and the fact that the corners almost never correspond to each other, and many other details, interfere with the fast performance of work. It is quite difficult to hide all these shortcomings today. And rather not so much difficult as expensive.

This article will discuss step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard ceiling, which has a huge number of advantages, ranging from ease of installation to affordable prices.

What tools do you need?

If you are thinking about how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then first of all you should do various preparatory work for the main process, namely: it is important to purchase the building materials necessary for quick installation of the ceiling, as well as prepare all the tools.

In order to install your own two-level plasterboard ceiling, you will need:

• Water-type level in order to carry out an accurate marking of the place where the guide level will be installed.

• For fast drilling of various holes with any hammer drill.
• Scissors with which you can cut metal.
• "Bulgarian".
• Screw gun for fixing gypsum board, as well as profile.
• Roll

Installing the frame

The first thing to do is to choose a place for the future marking of the place where the guide profile will be installed. The marks should be applied after all the containers are at the same level.

How much to deviate from the building ceiling in centimeters is up to you, however, most builders suggest looking at a photo of a drywall ceiling in order to understand that the distance should not be less than ten centimeters.

After the completion of the first stage, that is, after the markings are carried out on each wall, you can proceed to drilling several holes for the dowels. For this, a puncher is used.

After completing the installation of the guide profile, using the prepared tape measure directly around the perimeter, it is necessary to make marks with an average interval of about 60 cm.

If you want to make a fairly simple structure consisting of only one level, then there is no need to install the popular C-shaped profiles in two directions at once. It is enough to carry out the marking exclusively on two opposite sides.

After that, you can proceed to fixing the suspension. After completing the installation of all direct hangers, you can proceed to the installation of the ceiling profile and the subsequent sheathing of the ceiling with sheets.

Ceiling decoration

To date, a huge number of various ways of decorating the ceiling are offered. Thanks to the active development of the construction industry, many different decorative materials can be found in stores that will decorate the ceiling.

Everything will depend solely on taste preferences and financial capabilities. Someone prefers plaster molding, while someone is delighted with foam baguettes.

You should not pay attention to various kinds of trends in fashion, since they pass quickly, but you definitely have to live with a new renovation for more than one or two years.

It is important that the ceiling gives you exceptional joy from looking at it and creates a feeling of comfort in the room.

After you decide what the ideal ceiling looks like for you after renovation, it is important to assess whether you can afford it financially, and if the answer is yes, then you can safely go to the building materials store and choose what will allow quickly turn your dreams of a perfect ceiling into reality.

There is nothing difficult in the technology of creating suspended ceilings using plasterboard.

You just need to remember that before doing anything, you need to think several times, since such a ceiling is not set for a year or even for five years.

Note!

Photo of a plasterboard ceiling

Note!