Drop trailer: buy or do it yourself, details about the design. A vintage trailer is a drop of unnecessary parts and production waste - a subbotnik is simply in anvira !!! DIY drop trailer drawings

Homemade caravan trailer made from a car trailer: a photo of the construction of a camper with a detailed description, also a video showing a mobile home.

We decided to build a small residential building on wheels so that we could go to nature in our car. Since we did not have the camper drawings, we decided to make a removable module for the factory trailer (so that there would be no problems with re-registering the vehicle).

For this was purchased boat trailer of the Kurgan plant(only in their TCP there is no clarification of what kind of trailer it is, just a trailer, other manufacturers indicate that this is a boat trailer and you cannot put a house on it).

The dimensions of the module corresponded to the dimensions of the trailer - 1400 x 2400 mm. Naturally, the removable module must be durable, and for our roads a plywood house will definitely not work, we had to weld a steel frame.

The base is welded from a 60 x 30 mm profile, walls and ceiling from a 20 x 20 mm profile. On the pipe bender, 2 identical arcs were bent.

The most difficult thing was to think over the doors, it took us 1/3 of the total time spent on the door. Anyone who was interested in this topic, anyway saw factory doors, ventilation hatches, gas stoves, sinks, heaters, etc. on American trailers. etc. There is only one problem: cost. one factory door costs about 700-800 bucks (and they need 2), a hatch to the roof with an extractor hood is about 300-400 bucks, I didn't even look at the sinks and stoves, and so it became clear that we would choose from what we find in household stores ...

As a result, the doors were made by themselves, because with our course the budget for the door alone was more than 100 thousand (on alik, ebee, in Europe, America, Russian online stores - prices are about the same).
They decided to make the doors with power windows, tk. this is the easiest way in our opinion. There is no point in describing the whole process, I can only say that it was very dreary to make doors. but at cost they came out at 5 rubles each door, taking into account everything, everything. the savings were worth it)
Outside, the body was sheathed with 0.8 mm aluminum sheets, we were looking for specially large sheets so that it could be covered with one sheet without joints. As a result, we found AMTs2 sheets with a size of 1500 x 3000 mm, which suited us perfectly.

Now I would choose a composite material for cladding buildings, 4 mm thick (who does not know, these are 2 sheets of 0.4 mm aluminum, and between them a special composite that perfectly withstands all weather conditions).

We glued aluminum onto a plywood backing, riveted around the perimeter and sealed all joints. It was possible to leave the trailer with aluminum, but initially they wanted a blue outside, so they ordered a vinyl film for covering the vehicle in the printing house and covered it on top.
Many people ask about the refrigerator. There is no refrigerator, and it cannot be, because the module is removable and has its own car battery. The wiring of the module is completely autonomous, and is not connected in any way to the wiring of the car and trailer. Therefore, you cannot connect a refrigerator here. Although I do not understand the problem if it can be put in the trunk of a car.
We also made 2 220V sockets in the residential area, a 400W inverter, enough for charging and TV. The lighting is LED everywhere.

Water is supplied from a canister by a fountain pump, not very powerful, but economical.
We made a niche under the countertop under the kitchen, it seemed very convenient, but in fact, the ribs above and below were made of a 15 x 15 profile, a very flexible and not reliable profile. As a result, the niche bent a little and the chipboard table did not fit in there, I had to make it out of plywood.
After assembly, the trailer was tested by Karcher at all joints, cracks, etc. 100% tightness.

The cost of building a cottage trailer.

We started building the camper in May 2015 and finished in June 2016. We work with a friend in shifts, i.e. 2-3-4 days a week could be devoted to a trailer. Very hung up with kitchen decoration and doors. If you expect to collect in 3 months - plus a triple term.

In terms of finance: everything was bought new, nothing from the second-hand was used. The trailer itself cost 44 thousand, and about 110 thousand were spent on materials. recorded everything, down to gloves, so the price is close to the real one. You can make it cheaper, but you should know in advance.

By weight: the trailer + the module weighs about 600 kg, the module itself is about 460-480 kg. A large amount of chipboard added to the severity, who will do it - look for a lighter material for partitions.

Passenger car 1.4 octavia drags the trailer with a bang. On the highway, it accelerated to 130 km / h, the trailer is not felt at all, the streamlined shape practically does not slow down. consumption increases by 1-2 liters. It is difficult to drive on a bad road over 90, yet the weight is not small, the car jerks. But 80-90 is also quite acceptable for such a trailer. I drove through the fields, on dirt roads, the trailer never struck anywhere.

A video detailing the homemade RV.

It was decided to carry out a global cleaning of the company. But, take everything and throw it away, somehow the hand does not rise. What to do? Why not build another trailer? And who said that it must be "off-road"?

It was decided to build a vintage tiardrop (drop trailer).

An example of what can be obtained is taken from the Internet:

So where to start? From the wheels - the tires were left from some kind of Kruzak, but with white letters. The wheel arch will go iron - I bought it in reserve - it was not needed (it was too small). The wheel will be cast with thick spokes - old from my 80th cruiser.

Springs from Loaf (new model), just on the trailer from waste. The battery lying around from Jim will also work.

Amorts 4 pcs. left from an unsuccessful experiment with pneuma - in business.

The axle of the wheels is there. No brakes. At one time he did it as a spare tire for the Olenin project by Lesha Mochalov - it was not required. I also think to underestimate it by 10 centimeters.

The lock on the back door from the Volga. Was lost when moving, and now found on time

Removable and even a pivoting support stand - in the case. So far, too, was not required, tk. it is without a wheel.

Stainless steel sink. Somewhat cut, but with a drain under 90g. - in business

A watering can from some old boiler. The submersible water pump is from my ancient Hobbik. For water from the dacha I will bring simple plastic cans of 80 and 60 liters.

Countertop scraps will also find their way

The remnants of bamboo linen will create comfort in the children's compartment.

Scraps of different types of insulation will find their refuge in the walls / floor / ceiling.

On the body, let us cut off composite scraps and wood from transport boxes and broken pallets.

The layout of the cabin will be according to the following scheme:

The size of the body will turn out to be decent !!! Preliminary dimensions width 1800 / height 1200 / length 3300mm

The width of the trailer itself is almost 2.5 meters !!! :)

The axle of the wheels is too small. But still cut it. Understatement is planned by 100-150 mm.

Nishtyachok for street lighting while parking. I came across candle-lit lanterns in the store! :) I think it will be in the subject. Galvanizing with a gas burner. Let it rust.

Here's what happened:

Hello, friends! Today I would like to discuss with you a rather interesting drop trailer. This is not quite the usual design of the trailer that many of you are used to.

Here we are talking about a small residential unit, which is designed for overnight stay, relaxation and travel without the need to stay in a hotel or rent a house.

I can't say that a drop will replace a full-fledged cottage. But such a trailer has its own objective advantages and features. Therefore, I propose to study it in more detail in order to understand what a drop for a car is, how such a tourist trailer differs and how realistic it is to assemble it with your own hands or buy it from the manufacturer.

Features of drops on wheels

The choice of a trailer directly depends on the tasks facing the car owner. Therefore, based on a specific situation, the market remains in demand:

• for beekeepers;
• and livestock vehicles among farmers;
• for those who need to transport wheeled vehicles and vehicles;
• when transporting perishable goods;
• for food and non-food liquids;
• for entrepreneurs it is ;
• among extreme lovers, trailers are in demand for and .

And there are a great many similar examples.

What then are drops for?

The drop is a special living unit on wheels that is hooked to a towbar and transported using an ordinary passenger car. Currently, in Moscow, Tyumen, the city of St. Petersburg, and in Russia as a whole, such a trip has not gained immense popularity. Ukraine is gradually realizing how such a compact cottage on wheels is beneficial in terms of budget tourism.

If you look on the Internet, look at the ads on Avito, you will find in a fairly large number of ads such as selling a caravan-drop. For used options, the price is lower than for new models.

The only problem is where to buy a new drop or tirdrop (TearDrop, that is, a drop from the eyes, literally a tear). Studying the reviews and suggestions, I made a conclusion for myself. Large trailer manufacturers do not do such things yet. But drops for a car are produced by small firms, individuals on order and offer completely ready-made options.

History and essence of structures

Drops, drops or tears began to be actively produced in the United States back in the 30s of the last century. Then many people lost their homes, jobs, property. I had to look for any solutions in order to survive. And so the first samples of drops appeared, which were literally collected from garbage and improvised means.

Life gradually improved, and the drops began to be used as tourist trailers. What is Teardrop Classic, that is, a standard drop?

Let's see.

The classic drop has not lost its original appeal. But if earlier people simply survived in them, now it has become more of a luxury item, an opportunity to engage in exciting tourism, to experience all the delights of an overnight stay outside of standard hotels and cottages.

As for me, this option will appeal not only to tourists, but also to fishermen, hunters who go out for catch and game for several days.

Ready versus homemade

Basically, you have 3 options to get hold of the drop:

• do it yourself;
• purchase a ready-made version;
• order an individual project.

That is, the choice is between home-made and ready-made solutions. To be objective, I will try to give arguments for and against both options for resolving the issue.

If you decide to do everything yourself, the advantages will be:

• low price;
• the ability to use your own drawing and create the desired dimensions;
• subject of pride;
• development of skills and acquisition of new knowledge.

But before you build a drop trailer and start making patterns, get acquainted with the downside.

The disadvantages of homemade designs are:

• the complexity of the work;
• skills and experience are required;
• financial costs for the base of the trailer and consumables;
• problem with passing the examination;
• difficulties when registering a vehicle in the traffic police.

As practice shows, the savings are imaginary.

But let's get on with it. Now ready-made solutions are next in line. Their advantages are as follows:

• you don't need to do anything yourself;
• the drop meets all norms and standards;
• there are no problems with registration;
• you can order an individual project;
• good build quality;
• adaptation for a passenger car;
• manufacturer's warranty.

If we take classic solutions, such as the Caretta 1500, I cannot name any objective disadvantages. Although some note the high cost of such trailers.

Here I will argue. Buying drops of Russian or Ukrainian production from private workshops, you will have to spend about 5-6 thousand dollars. But these are fully equipped models. Analogues from the USA and Europe, with a similar configuration, cost at least 10 thousand rubles. So everything is relative.

We do it ourselves

You can find a lot of photo and video materials on the network, which tells you how to build a drop with your own hands. Such production has the right to life, if you are ready to act in accordance with all the rules, undergo a full examination and prove the compliance of a homemade trailer with all relevant safety requirements.

Think, maybe for tourism you would be better off buying than wasting time and money on assembling a drop. You decide.

Today we will tell you how to build a do-it-yourself drop trailer. Such a living module is common among caravaners - lovers of auto travel with a mobile home. You can see an example in the photo below.

Why drop trailer?

Let's not be unfounded - a drop trailer is not a full-fledged trailer with all the amenities, it has its pros and cons. Each traveler decides for himself which mobile unit to choose. We will note the advantages according to which the decision was made to build a drop trailer:
weight and shape;
compact size;
ease of manufacture, low cost of building materials;
the ability to limit yourself to the rights with the category "B" (we wrote about the categories for the trailer);
no need to re-register with the traffic police.

The first two points are very important for us - a Chevrolet-Niva car with a low-power 79 hp engine will be used as a tractor. Of course, you can carry a large trailer with such a motor, but on the very first trip all the joy of the trip will end after the next climb up the hill. The drop trailer is easily collected in a garage with low ceilings (190 cm) with budget of 50 thousand rubles, which cannot be said about the big trailer.

Choosing a trailer for the base

We bought a Soviet "cart" VOEARZ 81011 in good condition, having bargained a decent amount of money. You can choose another option, now almost any size can be made to order at the factory.

Requirements for trailer dimensions:
width - not less than 150 cm;
length - at least 190 cm (better than 240 cm);
the height of the site from the ground is approximately 50 cm.

Important! The trailer must not be high! Otherwise, you will not be able to drive normally more than 50-60 km / h! Optimally - 50 cm.

The drop trailer is a kind of "bed on wheels", so these sizes are quite enough. We will place a removable residential module with the following dimensions on the trailer:
length 240 cm - 190 cm is a "bed" and 50 cm is a kitchen;
width - 150 cm, optimally two people.

Why is the removable module better? - does not require registration with the traffic police, since the design of the trailer has not been changed, and the booth is considered a transported cargo.

Preparing the workplace for building a trailer

So, we have decided on the dimensions and are ready to start building. Prepare basic tools:
jigsaw or grinder with a saw blade for wood;
screwdriver and / or drill with adjustable speeds;
screwdriver;
hammer;
pliers;
awl;
marker and chalk.

Sometimes during the construction process additional tools are required - as they say, to whom it is more convenient. It is better to buy materials in addition gradually, since the sizes may differ slightly. We will list only the main components:
moisture resistant polished plywood 12 mm (for floors), 10 mm (for sidewalls), 3 mm (for ceiling);
timber 50 * 50 (main), 40 * 40 mm (on the door);
steel construction corners;
foam 50 mm;
plastic windows 400 * 500;
galvanized sheet 0.35 mm;
wood screws 4 * 40;
In the process, sealant, door hinges, handles, latches, cigarette lighters, wires, bulbs, etc. are bought in addition.

Start of construction

The main rule of camp collection is to assemble the van from the inside out. On the contrary, you cannot, otherwise you will not push the inner lining through the door.

We make the base of the van from a bar. Its dimensions are 150 * 240 mm, it is fastened with corners. Then we screw moisture-resistant plywood (12 mm) to the bottom with self-tapping screws in increments of every 10-15 cm.

Do not rush to lay the floor - treat the plywood with a special anti-rot and insect repellent. We used "Senezh Aquadecor", color "Mahogany" (No. 113), the average price is 340 rubles. You can buy other firms cheaper, but they are liquid and are consumed 1.5 times more.

Then sheathe the bottom with galvanized plating and paint, let it dry (in the future, the structure will become heavier and this will be problematic). You can use ordinary enamel for metal "PF-115", it is still not visible below. Attach the base to the trailer with strong heavy-duty bolts with wide washers, holes are drilled in the timber that matches the iron beams.

Important! Do not make holes in the trailer cover or only in the plywood - it will tear! Do not use Chinese "plastic" fasteners! We asked in a car service used hardened bolts from the cylinder head cover (they throw them away anyway).

Then we cut out the inner sides of 10 mm plywood of the desired shape, make openings for the doors - the width is at your discretion, but not less than 55 cm.We have selected for ourselves a ceiling height of 120 cm - it allows a person 190 cm tall to sit fully.

On the periphery, we fasten a beam of 50 mm, in the places of rounding we level it with a grinder and polish. Do not worry that the structure is "playing" - the outer skin will give the van stiffness.

Then we adjust the plywood for the floor (12 mm) to the internal dimensions, cover with impregnation. Lay the foam tightly.

We fasten the floor to the self-tapping screws, drill holes from the bottom for the fastening bolts, which will be accessible from the camping salon. We fix the base to the trailer until the end of construction. Then we treat the inner walls on both sides with impregnation.

Next, we lay the wiring, cut in cigarette lighters, lamps, insulate the walls with foam. We bought a plafond from Niva, it is of an external type and can be easily attached to plywood. The rest of the components were purchased at a radio parts store. We make a conclusion to the socket of the trailer, in the future there will be an additional wire from the car battery.
You can run a second wire and make a spare battery compartment in the trailer itself to unhook it from the car and use the light.

We cut out plywood 3 mm thick onto the ceiling, gradually bend it, from the outside we fasten the timber to the sidewalls. We separate the kitchen at the back. Take into account the two distances, circled in an oval in the figure - you should fully lie at full height and not reach the top shelf when bending your knees.

We insulate everything with foam, then sheathe the outside with plywood (sidewalls 10 mm, ceiling 3 mm), which is pre-treated with impregnation.

Then we make a frame for the rear large door (it will open upwards), we proceed to collecting the kitchen - there is room for your imagination, whoever is comfortable.

Wiring plan, lighting lamp, cupboards, washbasin tank and drain. In any suburban shop, you can buy a tank and a tap, a set of double-sided nuts, plumbing sealant. We will not paint the little things, modify them locally.

You can put the kitchen aside for later and do the galvanized outer cladding. The joints are degreased and liberally coated with silicone sealant, we used "Moment". The metal overlaps, painstakingly stitched with an aluminum strip.

Modify the latches and handles locally. We proceed to the side doors - here it is better to use a 40 mm beam. We cut in plastic windows, we clog everything with polystyrene, we insulate.

Please note that the windows must open to the outside - this is more convenient, since there is too little space inside. Here a problem arose, such "devices" are not produced. We cheated: we remove the handle from the outside, put a plug. Drill a hole on the reverse side, attach a homemade "grab" and make a support from a bar. A special "key" is obtained from the handle using a grinder. It is better to have the window open upwards - this will protect you from side rain.

Do not forget to provide minimum ventilation in the doors. In such a small room, even in the cold season, after a couple of hours, there will be nothing to breathe. It is better to install air ducts (from the sewer pipe) at an angle of at least 30º so that the side rain does not pour a puddle on you on the very first day. All joints from the street are degreased and smeared with silicone sealant.

We sheathe the outside with galvanizing, put handles, latches. Then painting. We used Chinese KUDO spray cans, pre-primed with the same company. After the coating is dry, be sure to glue all three doors with rubber insulation (you can buy it at a building materials store).

After six months of hard work, we enjoy the result! The car behaves well on the road, such a trailer does not swing, fuel consumption has not changed much. At temperatures up to + 8ºC inside, you can sleep like at home.

The traffic police looked at the presence of documents on the trailer, license plates and the operation of the rear lights - they did not ask any other questions.

Denis Filin, for the Autoclub78 website http: // website

P.S. The manufacturer of this trailer is ready to answer the questions of our readers. Ask them by email or (even better) in the comments!