How to make drum sticks. How to choose drumsticks? The structure of the drumstick

Drumming has not lost its relevance for many years, and the manufacturers of the obligatory attribute - drumsticks, do not stop improving their products. Before you go shopping, you need to carefully study the types of drumsticks, since they all differ in sound, weight, balance, strength and other characteristics. Only well-chosen sticks will allow you to fully reveal your musical abilities and emphasize the uniqueness of your playing style.

Types of handpieces

Drum sticks are usually divided into four types according to the type of head: round, drop-shaped, pointed and cylindrical. Despite the fact that each manufacturer slightly modifies its products, making them different from the models of other companies, the standards are generally followed.

Round heads are especially valuable when playing cymbals. They focus sounds and neutralize some of the differences in sound that occur when striking at different angles.
The teardrop shape of the heads contributes to better control of the sound, since when in contact with the plastic, the tilt of the stick changes.
Pointed-headed sticks are especially popular. This is due to the fact that when struck, they give out a sound of medium focus.
The most open and diffused sound is produced by sticks with cylinder heads. This is due to the larger area of contact with the drum.

Tip material

The heads can be either wooden or nylon. The first ones are worth choosing if your goal is soft sound. Of the minuses of natural material, fragility can be noted. Nylon heads are more expensive, but capable of producing truly crisp, clear sounds and are virtually unaffected by wear. These tips are essential for playing electronic drums.

Wood, steel or plastic?

When choosing sticks, it is important to consider not only the shape, but also the content. Traditional materials for their manufacture are oak, maple and light walnut (hickory). Moreover, each of them has its own distinctive features. The most durable, dense and heavy are oak models. They are rarely used. Hickory models are less solid. Unlike oak, such drumsticks are capable of dampening vibrations when struck.

And finally, maple. The best drumsticks for fast playing come from this wood. However, it is worth remembering about their ability to quickly wear out and break down at the most unexpected moment. Sticks made of polyurethane, carbon or aluminum have earned popularity due to their durability and the ability to replace broken individual parts. For example, ahead drumsticks with detachable tips have worked well.

Manufacturers are increasingly moving away from traditional materials. Heavy steel drumsticks are gaining popularity. But they are not used for playing, but for training. Not all eminent drummers agree with this approach, as the hands can become stronger, while losing the flexibility necessary for virtuoso playing. The correct technique is important here, allowing you to strengthen your hands, but not overdo it. Many famous drummers deviate from tradition and play with exclusive sticks, for example, from rare woods or unusual artificial materials.

Subtleties of digital marking

Traditionally, stick markings consist of a number and a letter. The first indicates the thickness, and the larger the number, the thinner the stick. For example, sticks labeled 5B will be thinner and lighter than models labeled 2A. Standards are standards, but nevertheless, products from different manufacturers with the same mark may differ in ergonomic characteristics, and nova drumsticks are not at all the same as products from other well-known manufacturers with similar markings.

Letter designations

The letters in the marking indicate a particular style of play. So, models with the letter "A" (orchestra) are popular among groups playing dance music, jazz and blues. These sticks allow you to play quite quietly and softly. In addition, they are somewhat thinner than sticks with other letter designations. Today, such drumsticks hold a leading position among musicians around the world.

Experts recommend that beginners learn to play the drums with the help of sticks, in the marking of which there is the letter "B" (band). Such models are traditionally used in symphony and brass bands, they are convenient and popular. If you decide to learn how to play, then start with sticks marked with 2I.

The letter "S" (street) appears on the labeling of drumsticks intended for military or street bands. They provide maximum volume and impact force, and are hardly used when playing traditional drum kits.

The letter "N" present in the marking is a rather new designation, indicating that the stick has a nylon tip. A letter is added at the end of the traditional marking.

Right choice

When purchasing sticks, you should heed the advice of consultants and experienced drummers. However, the most important thing is to feel with your own hands a much-needed attribute. Do not rush and buy the first available model that matches the marking. This is the only way you can choose standing sticks. Was your purchase successful? Do not take too much care of them, wrap them with electrical tape, etc. Enjoy the game ... and head out for new sticks if your accessories are out of order.

Hello everyone. I bought nylon drumsticks out of pure curiosity about what they are and what they are eaten with. Briefly: correspond to size 5A, slightly longer, while heavier than oak sticks, unpleasantly sag and spring when playing. Compared to wooden sticks, drums sound much quieter and more muffled, but cymbals sound even louder due to the heavier weight of nylon sticks. After each hit on the cymbal, there are decent dents on the chopsticks. Hardly suitable for anything other than drum pad training

What drumsticks are not made of. On sale there are both classic - wooden and nylon tips, and carbon, and hybrid, with interchangeable arms and heads (Ahead). But somehow I haven’t met nylon ones, so I wondered what kind of sticks they were, how they behave.

I ordered the cheapest option that I found on aliexpress, since I visually did not notice the difference with the more expensive ones. For about a month, a parcel was traveling to me, without a track number, in a simple package, for which you don't even need to sign the mail. The packaging was simple, a bag and a couple of turns of a bubble wrap.

This is what these sticks look like:

Comparison with Vic Firth 5A maple sticks. As you can see, the nylon sticks are slightly longer, although the shoulders are very close in shape.

The head of the sticks is pointed, I would say, too pointed:

The handles of the sticks are corrugated, apparently so as not to slip out of the hands. But for me it would be better if they were smooth, with such a surface you can peel off the skin from your hands. If the wooden sticks are too smooth, I usually lightly process them in the grip with fine sandpaper, and they do not slip anymore. With corrugation, they clearly overdid it.

Now about the sensations when playing with these sticks, and about the sound. Sticks by weight are significantly heavier than wooden ones, even oak ones of the same dimension 5A. The effect of "gravity" when playing is also enhanced, since the sticks are more elastic than wooden ones, noticeably sag when swinging and spring when struck, perhaps even stronger than bamboo roots, such as in the review, and these are the most flexible routs that I have come across.

The sound of strikes on drums, in comparison with wooden sticks, is much quieter and more muffled, apparently just because of their elasticity. But the sound of hitting the cymbals is even louder than that of wooden sticks, as I understand it, due to the greater weight of the nylon ones. Therefore, when they are played in the eyes, or rather, in the ears, a discrepancy between the volume of drums and cymbals rushes, the drums are too quiet, the cymbals are too loud. That is, you can't play quietly, like ruts, or you need to additionally muffle the cymbals. Maybe these sticks are indispensable in some exotic style, where the cymbals should be much louder than the drums, but I don't know that.

Here is a short video showing the difference in sound between wood and nylon sticks. Unfortunately, it was done very spontaneously, without preparation, I did not think in advance what exactly to play, so that the difference in the sound of the sticks was the most noticeable. Therefore, the demo video turned out to be shorter than planned, but I am not able to shoot the second take in the near future.

In the video, I knocked, to put it mildly, not powerfully, since the installation is in a residential building, and I generally try not to play with sticks at home. With more dynamic play, the drums would sound deeper and fuller, the snare would have less crackling strings and more tom sound. But I think that the difference between the sound of wooden and nylon sticks is understandable, although in the recording the difference is less pronounced. The sound was recorded on a Zoom H4n recorder mounted on a tripod near the drummer's head.

As I said, I do not see the use of these sticks in drumming, primarily due to the discrepancy between the volume of the cymbals and drums. It is quite possible to get used to the elasticity of these sticks, but artificially forcing the feed in the drums and holding back when playing cymbals is too much. This, of course, is possible, but why?

The next pictures show the dents formed on the shoulders of the sticks, after, one might say, a dozen seconds of playing when recording a video.

Even the most substandard wooden sticks are covered with such dents during much more dynamic play. And with nylon, I just gently stroked the plates, and as a result, such dents. What would happen to them after an hour of playing in a heavy style, I'm even afraid to imagine, most likely they simply will not stand this hour. I don't want to stage such an experience, because I'm thinking of trying to use these sticks for training hands on a pad, they seem to me to be suitable for this.

Honestly, I am a little sorry for the money spent on these sticks, since most likely I will not find any use for them. I also regret not having bought sticks, for example, yellow or green, it would be funny. This would not change the essence, but they would be a little more beautiful.

Thank you for the attention.

I plan to buy +2 Add to favourites I liked the review +24 +36

In today's post we will return a little to the basics of drumming and talk about their structure, features and recommendations for choosing.

It would seem that the sticks are essentially just an insensitive extension of your hand, which transfers the energy of the swing to the drum head, but not so little depends on this wooden twig, because your overall sound, and speed, and comfort when playing.

So, let's start our educational program:

STRUCTURE OF STICKS

Butt- the area of the balance of the stick.

Body- the largest part of the stick, serving as a grip and striking part for rim-shot strikes.

Shoulder- the stick area, often used for crash cymbals and kickbacks. Alternating hi-hat strikes with the tip of the stick and the shoulder on the hi-hat creates the basis for rhythm guidance.
Thinning - there is a shoulder shape. The length and thickness of the thinning affects the flexibility, sensitivity and sound of the stick. Poles with a short, thick thinning feel more stiff, provide greater durability, and produce a stronger sound than sticks with a long and narrow thinning, which tend to be more fragile and pliable but sound more delicate.

Neck plays the role of the transition of the stick from the shoulder to the tip and allows you to identify the point of the beginning of the tip and the end of the shoulder of the stick. Thus, it serves as a link between the tip and the shoulder. The shape of the neck is predetermined by the shape of the shoulder and tip.

Handpieces Drumsticks come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The size of the head determines the intensity, volume and duration of the sound produced.
There are so many tip shapes that sometimes it is not an easy task to accurately group the sticks by tip type. In addition to variations in shape, tips can vary in length, size, workmanship, material. There are 8 basic types of handpieces.

Style, scope - jazz, funk, fusion, blues, groove, swing, etc.

Peculiarities: It has a larger contact area with plastic than a round one, which spares the plastic and, as it were, "dulls" the errors in sound production. Creates a medium-bodied sound with a wider focus. Produces a less bright and accentuated cymbal sound than a round tip. Recommended for beginner drummers.

Style, scope - Perfect for studio work, playing in a symphony orchestra, as well as for playing light jazz, both with symmetrical stick grips and traditional ones.

Peculiarities: Focuses the sound (which is clearly visible when playing cymbals) and significantly reduces the change in sound when striking at different angles of the stick.
Suitable for vivid play and clear sound production.
The small round tip produces a highly focused sound and is especially delicate with cymbals. Sticks with a larger rounded part of such a tip produce a fuller sound.
Such a tip “does not tolerate” mistakes in sound production and is suitable for use by drummers with the right beat.

Style, scope - light rock, jazz, funk, fusion, blues, groove, etc.

Peculiarities: It has a larger contact area with plastic than a round one, which spares the plastic and, as it were, "dulls" the errors in sound production.
Creates a medium-bodied sound with a wider focus.
Produces a less bright and accentuated cymbal sound than a round tip.
Recommended for beginner drummers.

Style, scope - A great choice for drummers playing a variety of styles, from rock and metal to jazz and pop. Often used for styles such as: rock, rock'n'roll, hard rock smooth jazz, swing, ambient, easy listening, etc.

Peculiarities: Primarily designed for powerful, rhythmic and loud playing.

Due to the large area of contact with the plastic, they emit a dull, muffled, open, diffused, not harsh sound.
Also suitable for soft, calm play. Produces a dull, medium sound attack.

Style, scope - trash metal, gothik metal, hard metal, rock, jazz, fusion, swing, etc. with a lot of down-hits on cymbals.

Peculiarities: Due to its rounded shape, it perfectly shows itself when playing fast in the style of speed metal. This tip is recommended for teaching primary hand positioning.
Great for alternating fast up-down and slow-motion playing with concentrated (directional) hits on both cymbals and drums for soft, focused sound reproduction.
Due to the "bulge" it allows you to control the sound and the area of contact with the surface of the instruments in a very wide range, depending on the angle of inclination of the stick to the surface of the instrument.
This tip produces a full low sound, diffuses the energy over a wider area (compared to a round or triangular tip), thus extending the life of the plastics. A good choice for those who play hard. Produces a rich sound when played on cymbals.

Style, scope - rock, metal, pops, marsh, etc.

Peculiarities: Suitable for loud, heavily accentuated playing with a powerful sound attack. Recommended for marching drums, for performances on large stages, in stadiums.

Style, scope - swing, jazz, blues, fusion, etc. Often the choice of jazz drummers. Lightweight and fast, this tip is the perfect choice for orchestra and jazz ensemble.

Peculiarities: Produces a full-blown high-pitched sound, diffuses energy over a narrower area; produces a rich cymbal sound, gives a focused sound attack.
Recommended for dull-sounding accents when played at a slow to medium tempo.
It has good bounce and is designed for clear and sharp impacts.
Great for soft, accentuating sound, especially with an unconventional grip.
With a straight grip, ideal for dimming a ride cymbal with up-down strikes, such as swinging with the head of a stick.
Also recommended for heavy speed metal and especially for training exercises.

Style, scope - rock, metal, pops, funk, swing, jungle, blues, etc.

Peculiarities: Produces a fairly bright, powerful sound on low attack. Shows good clarity and articulation when hitting a ride cymbal.
Good for sharp transitions from powerful loud playing to quiet, rhythmic dull pulsation.
Great for both traditional and parallel grip.

CHOICE OF STICKS

The choice of sticks depends on what kind of music (rock, jazz, metal, pops or classical) you play. The choice of material, size, shape and tip is mostly personal preference.

The wand should feel comfortable in your hand and be suitable for producing the sound you want to achieve. For example, 7A sticks may be good for a small venue concert, but totally unsuitable for a street drum orchestra.

Choose sticks that are comfortable for your hands and suit your playing style. Feel the sticks. Hold them in your hands.

The stick should be sized to fit your hand, both in diameter and length (often the length of a suitable stick is determined by the distance from the inner point of the elbow to the tip of your ring finger). If the sticks sit comfortably in the palm of your hand, then you can get the sound you want from the drum.

Try a few different stick models for comparison before deciding to buy a particular one. Once you have enough experience with drumming, you are likely to find a specific brand and ideal model that suits you best.

Factors needed when choosing sticks:

Wood species. The sound and durability of the sticks will depend on the correct choice of wood. The texture of the tree should not be pronounced, otherwise such sticks will quickly break.

Wood structure(dense, soft); the wear of the sticks depends on it.

Hardness of wood- resistance of wood to change in shape (deformation), or destruction in the surface layer under force. Hardwood gives a brighter tone, more attack and spread, which many people like.

Density- the ratio of the mass of wood (the amount of woody substance) to its volume. Density is the most important indicator of strength: the heavier the wood, the more density and strength it has.

No two trees are the same, hence the density of the tree differs from log to log and even within the log itself. This explains why some sticks feel solid and powerful, while others feel as if they are hollow, even though they are the same make and model.

The density of wood also depends on its moisture content.

Treatment. There are sticks for finishing:

Sanded, without any cover. During the grinding process, significant irregularities are removed from the surface of the sticks with abrasive materials, usually emery. At the same time, the natural roughness of the wood texture is preserved, which contributes to a better grip between the hand and the stick, as well as the absorption of excess moisture. But at the same time, such sticks are more susceptible to destruction than varnished ones.

Lacquered. Varnish transparent coatings protect wood from moisture and dust, give the surface a beautiful intense even shine, and the texture - contrast. Coating the sticks with varnish makes their surface more durable. Lacquered sticks look slightly worse than polished ones.

Polished. The highest class of finishing of the sticks is polishing - smoothing the layers of varnish previously applied to the surface and giving the wood a distinctly visible texture. When polishing, the surface of the sticks becomes durable, mirror-like and shiny by applying the thinnest layers of polish on it - an alcoholic solution of vegetable resin.

Some drummers do not like lacquered and polished sticks, as they can slip out of sweaty hands when playing.

Wood moisture- the percentage of moisture in the wood.
As a rule, a newly felled tree contains up to 50% - 60% moisture, then it itself dries out by 12 - 16%, after which the moisture content of the wood stabilizes once and for all. That is why it is extremely important before the wood is put into processing, to subject it to artificial drying to the optimum moisture level. Typically, wood for the production of sticks is dried in the range of up to 6 - 14% moisture. On average, the entire drying process takes two weeks. But the exact time of holding and drying is not prescribed anywhere, and this is the secret of every manufacturer, who himself determines what degree of wood moisture he needs in order to process it on machines and get the desired quality of sticks.

At the exit from production for sticks, low humidity is required, since the tree "breathes", and the amount of moisture in it will constantly change depending on the humidity of the ambient air. Thus, the sticks will shrink and swell following changes in climate and humidity, but to what extent depends on how the wood was dried prior to production.
Poorly dried wood before processing will subsequently peel off, warp, shrink, dry out, crack, bend and deform.

Stick length. Longer sticks have more leverage and the advantage of better drum reach, but are more difficult to control. If you want more power with the same diameter, choosing a longer stick is a good solution.

Diameter. Larger diameter has more mass, which develops greater sound projection and loudness.

Stick weight. Weight affects sound, strength, and your ability to control sticks. In general, heavy sticks sound thicker and louder. If the sticks are lighter, then they make a "thin" and soft sound.

Heavy sticks have more inertia, so their trajectories are more consistent and they “forgive” most mistakes, making them easier to handle for beginners. In addition, playing with heavier sticks develops the drummer's stamina regardless of his natural ability. So it's a good idea to have some extra heavier sticks in your arsenal to expand your sonic capabilities. You will notice that when you switch to lighter sticks, they are more difficult to control.

Evenness is an important indicator that contributes to an even feeling of the balance of the sticks. In the initial stages of stick production, the most important is to control the drying process of the blanks. But since wood is a living "breathing" material that absorbs moisture, the shape and size of the sticks will always depend on external conditions. Therefore, two sticks will never be perfectly straight.

Recoil absorption depends on the shape of the stick and the type of wood. The more the drumstick absorbs the recoil, the less stress in the hand and joints, which means it is easier to play.
The feeling of "balance" (center of gravity) and a comfortable grip depends on the type of wood, its drying, the shape of the stick and the structure of the drummer's hand.

MARKING

Traditional model numbering such as 3S, 2B, 5B, 5A, and 7A was the earliest common drumstick numbering, with a number and letter indicating the size of the stick and its purpose. The exact specification of each model varied slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer, especially in the tapering and tip of the wand.

Digital position figuratively indicates the diameter (more precisely, the thickness) of the stick. Basically, a smaller number means a larger diameter, and a larger number means a smaller diameter. For example, a 7A stick is smaller in diameter than a 5A, which in turn is thinner than a 2B. The only exception is 3S, which is larger in diameter than 2B, despite the number.
Letter designations"S", "B" and "A" used to indicate the scope of a particular model, but today they have almost completely lost their meaning.

"S" meant "Street"... Initially, this model of sticks was intended for outdoor use: for playing in marching bands or drum bands, where a high power of blows and loudness of performance is expected; accordingly, the sticks of this group are the largest.

"B"- meant "Band"... They were originally intended for use in brass and symphony orchestras.
They have a larger shoulder and head size (for louder playing) than the "A" model. Usually used in heavy, noisy music.
They are easier to control and are recommended for aspiring drummers. The Model 2B is especially recommended by drum instructors as ideal starting sticks.

"A" comes from the word "Orchestra"... Due to the considerations of the legendary drummer and creator of percussion musical instruments, William Ludwig, instead of the letter "O" was used the letter "A", which, when printed, in his opinion, looked better than "O".
The "A" models were originally intended for big bands; bands playing dance music.

Typically these sticks are thinner than the "B" models, have thinner necks and smaller heads, which makes it possible to produce a quiet and mellow sound. Typically, sticks of this model are used in light music such as jazz, blues, pops, etc.

Models "A" are the most popular among drummers.

"N" means "Nylon" and is a relatively new designation. It is added at the end of the marking (for example, "5A N") and indicates that the stick has a nylon tip.

STICK MATERIAL

All indicators of the physical and mechanical properties of wood are determined at a moisture content of 12%.

American walnut (Hickory) is the ideal wood for drum sticks. Durable, solid, well absorbs recoil upon impact, effectively dampens vibrations transmitted from impacts to hands. It has an average weight, is not very susceptible to bending.

Density 815 kg / cubic meter,
Jank hardness - 1820

European Beech has a straight fibrous wood structure, flexible.
The hardness and density of wood is different, depending on the place where the trees grow. Beech wood is similar to oak in its basic mechanical properties.
After drying, most of the characteristics of wood improve, and beech becomes stronger in bending than oak, surpassing it in stiffness and shear resistance by about a quarter and even more in strength under impact loads.

Beech reacts quickly and strongly to changes in humidity, which is why it can be called "capricious" or "sensitive".

Density from 660 to 700 kg / m3

Yank hardness - 1300

Maple- the lightest and most flexible tree with a soft structure. Although maple is not as hard and durable as American walnut or oak, maple sticks are the ideal choice if you prefer a light feel and quick response. Maple sticks are considered "obedient sticks" with excellent recoil absorption, are flexible and have good rebound, are used mainly for soft or fast playing to get a light "airy" sound - especially when playing cymbals.

Maple density 620 - 675 kg / m3
Yank hardness - 1450

Oak(Oak) is a very strong wood, weighs more than maple and walnut and is much more durable. Oak sticks are the heaviest, densest, strongest and have a tangible recoil. Oak is not often used for making sticks. Very moisture resistant wood.

Density from 675 to 970 kg / m3
Yank hardness - 1360

Hornbeam(Hornbeam) has a medium density structure, good recoil absorption (average between walnut and maple), fairly high wear resistance. Wood weights range from very light to medium-heavy. The flexibility of the hornbeam is slightly worse than that of beech and oak. Sticks made of it are resistant to shock loads. Like beech, it is afraid of moisture.

Density - 750 kg / cubic meter
Jank hardness - 1860

Pao rosa(Rosewood) (Rosewood) - very strong, hard, but quite fragile wood. Sticks made of it are preferred for their wonderful tonal shade and feel, but they are not suitable for playing on iron.

Density from 709 to 780 kg / m3
Yank hardness - 2720

Other materials. In addition to wood, sticks are made of polyurethane, carbon fiber or aluminum. All of these sticks are extremely durable.

Recently, steel sticks for training are gaining popularity. Due to their heavy weight, they cannot be played on a drum kit, and they are suitable only for training and practicing technique. But not everyone agrees with him, adhering to the opinion: the hands will become stronger, but they will lose flexibility. In moderation and with the right approach, they can be useful, otherwise they can only harm, so you should deal with them with caution.

do not urinate your ear and everything)

rather it is very unpleasant ... Then another 2 weeks for the procedures to go ..

Drums!
I want to learn how to play them ^^

and how the earth bears such ...

Take a look at A&T Trade. perhaps they are waiting for you there.

Crew
Gangster Hunters

Danzel Washington is filming, good kinchik

The situation is classic - washing, handbrake, frost (-10) ... Bach, surprise The right rear managed to be thwarted quite quickly, with the left problem .. I dragged 150-200 meters along the asphalt with a skid, it's useless. I tried to swing in tightness, nothing helps, it stands as if it were dead! I read a bunch of information, methods of unlocking on the spot (excluding a tow truck and a wonderful transfer to a warm place) in general 4;
- Boiling water on the drum (from 200 gr to 5 l)
- Remove the wheel - tap with a hammer
- Without removing the wheels, tap on the mounting bolts
- Hair dryer, fan heater
Considering that I was standing on the road, the hair dryer fell away, I didn't feel like water and a sledgehammer ... and a separate respect - AndCam from Surgut! vacuum cleaner hose! Those one end to the exhaust pipe, the other to the drum! To be honest, I did not believe that it could help, BUT after 15 minutes of blowing with exhaust gases at idle, without any chponkany, everything was perfectly unlocked!
The ABS sensor, which naturally caught fire, went out after 200 meters, then dried it with braking, everything is fine!
Recomend for everybody! Fast, comfortable, not stressful and the handles are clean!
Good luck on the road!

If there is such a suspicion, go immediately to the hospital, night. Doctors will be able to tell you more precisely!

patella, umbiliculus, clavicula, mandibula, fossa canina

That suit your playing style. Why is this so important? The wrong attachments can quickly break down, and the sound produced with their help will differ from the desired one. There is a huge assortment of drumsticks on the music market. They are designed to be played in certain musical styles, for example, marching, jazz, rock. They also differ in material, shape, weight, coating, brand, so it is very important for a beginner to be able to navigate in all this diversity. So let's start in order.

The structure of drum sticks

The butt is the balanced part (thick tip). The butt can be used as an impact tip to increase impact force and volume.
The body is the main and most part, which serves as a grip, as well as a striking part when playing a rim shot.
The shoulder is the area of the stick just behind the tip that many drummers use for crashing cymbals, rim shots, and reverse kicks. The alternating end and shoulder strikes on the hi-hat create the basis for rhythm guidance.
The neck is the part of the stick that acts as the transition from the shoulder to the tip.
The tip (tip) of drumsticks has various shapes and sizes, which determine the intensity, volume and duration of the sound produced.

Drum stick material

Drumsticks are usually made of wood. The most commonly used walnut, maple or oak. Many drummers play with sticks made from other types of wood. For example, rosewood or bubinga. Let's consider the properties of the most popular breeds.

American walnut (Hickory) is the most popular material. Durable and solid wood absorbs recoil when hitting, effectively dampening vibrations transmitted from shocks. It has an average weight, is not very susceptible to bending. It has greater strength, weight, density than maple.

Maple is the lightest and most flexible tree with a soft structure. Although maple is not as hard and durable as American walnut or oak, maple sticks are the perfect choice for quick response. Maple sticks are considered "docile" with excellent recoil absorption. Due to their flexibility and good rebound, they are used mainly for soft or fast playing, for obtaining a light "airy" sound, especially when playing cymbals. Maple is good for energetic play, as it absorbs impact energy well. With it, you will feel less punching. But maple is a rather loose and soft material, sticks from it quickly wear out or break.

Oak (Oak) is a very durable wood, weighs more than maple and walnut, has greater strength. Oak sticks are the heaviest, densest, rarely break, but when playing you will feel the vibration much more due to the low ability to absorb impact energy. Oak is a very moisture resistant tree.

European Beech has a straight grain wood structure, flexible. The hardness and density of the base differ, depending on where the trees grow. In terms of mechanical properties, the material is similar to oak. Also, beech quickly and strongly reacts to changes in humidity.

Hornbeam - a tree with a medium density structure, good recoil absorption, medium between walnut and maple, high wear resistance. The weight of the wood ranges from very light to medium-heavy. The flexibility of the hornbeam is slightly lower than that of beech and oak. Devices made of it are resistant to shock loads, do not tolerate high humidity.

Rosewood is a very durable and hard wood. Sticks made from it are preferred for their wonderful tonal shade and feel, but they are not suitable for cymbal play and are quite expensive.

Synthetic sticks. Manufacturers of synthetic products use a variety of processing methods. These options provide greater strength than wooden ones and offer additional capabilities that cannot be achieved with wooden sticks. For example, AHEAD poles have a polyurethane-coated aluminum body that can be replaced as they wear out. They are also additionally equipped with screw-on tips, such as beaters, to create various sound effects.

Steel. For training, you can also use steel sticks, the weight of which significantly exceeds the weight of wooden ones. They cannot be played on a drum kit, but they are indispensable in practicing technique.

Tip classification

Drumstick tips can be categorized into different groups of shapes and materials.

In terms of shape, the tips are grouped into four main groups:

With a round tip.

The small round tip produces a bright, highly focused sound and is especially delicate with cymbals.

Large - produces a fuller sound.

The barrel-shaped tip has a large contact area and therefore produces a medium-fill sound with a wider focus.

The pointed tip produces a medium focused sound.

A drop or olive tip produces a full low sound. This type is a good choice for those who play hard.

According to the material, the tips are divided into wood and nylon.

Hardwood wooden tips provide a brighter sound than softwood tips. But over time, the wood wears out, becomes loose, and the sound is washed out and dark with less focus.

Nylon tips are stronger and harder, so they produce brighter tones with more attack and projection. The most important advantage of nylon tips is their durability, they do not lose their density and do not chip like wooden ones.

Drum stick marking and size

Looking at any drum stick, you will surely see that there are numbers and letters on it. Let's see what they mean.

Previously, the letter designations indicated the scope of this model, but now they have almost completely lost their meaning. Different manufacturers interpret the same letter design differently.

The “A” symbol is used on sticks that have thinner necks and relatively small heads, which allows the drummer to produce a quieter and softer sound. Usually, they are used in "light" music such as jazz or blues.
Symbol "B". Sticks of this model have a larger (compared to "A") size of the shoulder and head for louder playing. Often used in heavy music. Their movements are easy to control, so they are recommended for beginner drummers. The Model 2B is especially recommended by drum instructors as the ideal starting sticks.
The letter "S". This is how they mark products of the largest size, which were previously used in street and marching bands. Now they are almost never used for drumming.
The "N" symbol stands for Nylon. This letter is added at the end of the marking (for example, "5A N") and indicates that the stick has a nylon tip.

The numbers indicate the diameter (thickness) of the stick, which affects the sound. The numbers indicate the thickness: the higher the number, the narrower the stick. All brands use the same numbering system. For example, a 2B stick is thicker than a 5B stick.

So, there are 3 main categories of drumsticks:

7A is the thinnest and lightest for a soft sound. They give the drums a more orchestral sound, but they are rarely used for playing rudiments, as thicker sticks are suitable for this. This format is great for jazz music and young drummers.
5A are the most common medium thicknesses. Allows you to play loud or quiet. Versatile and suitable for any style, especially rock music.
2B / 5B - thicker than the previous ones, they get a loud sound from the drums. They are ideal for playing metal and hard rock.

Choosing the right drumsticks

The choice of sticks depends a lot on what kind of music you will play, but the material, size, shape and tip - from personal preference.

Like any instrument, the stick should feel comfortable in your hand and should be suitable for producing the sound you want to achieve, and the size should be appropriate for your hand, both in diameter and length. The correct length can be determined by measuring the distance from the inner bend point of the elbow to the tip of the ring finger.

Parameters to consider when choosing drumsticks:

Diameter. Choose the thickness of the sticks so that they fit comfortably in your hands and suit your playing style. Larger diameter sticks are heavier and are capable of developing higher volumes.

Length. The longer the stick, the more difficult it is to control, but the sound will be more powerful.
The weight. Weight affects sound, strength, and your ability to control it. Typically, heavy sticks sound louder and lighter ones softer. The aspiring drummer will appreciate the fact that thick sticks are easier to handle, making them well suited for training. In addition, playing heavier develops the drummer's stamina.
Density and strength. For wooden sticks, density is an indicator of strength: the heavier the wood, the greater its density, and hence the strength. All wood species differ in these indicators, but even among two different trees of the same species, it is not possible to find complete similarity in density. Therefore, it is boring to hold the sticks in your hand and feel their weight with your own hand. Instances of the same manufacturer and with the same markings may differ slightly. Synthetic sticks have good density and strength, but they are more expensive and feel different than wood of the same size.

Material. If the stick does not indicate what wood it is made of, then leave it in the store, let it lie on the window. In this case, there is no need to talk about compliance with quality standards.
Tip selection. There are two main types of ferrules: nylon and wood. Wooden tips are more common, suitable for many types of play. The main disadvantage of the wooden tip is rapid wear with frequent use. Nylon tips last longer and are indispensable for a bright cymbal sound and good bounce. Unfortunately, it also happens that nylon tips fly off during the performance. When playing electronic drums, it is recommended to use nylon-tipped drumsticks, as wooden sticks can break and severely damage the mesh on the pad. With plastic tips, the cymbals sound amazing. They give the drums a more pronounced sound. Wooden tips (the most common) give drums a deeper, more traditional sound, like jazz or old rock.

Choice of size. We talked about marking above. All parameters should be considered.
Coating. Sticks can be polished or varnished. The varnish protects the wood from moisture and dust, gives the surface a beautiful intense even shine, and the texture - contrast. The surface becomes more durable. Polished sticks look much better. It is worth noting that some drummers do not like varnished and polished sticks, as they can slip out of sweaty hands when playing.
Brand. Choosing a brand is a matter of experience. If you cannot boast of its presence yet, then be guided by the advice of friends, professionals, advertising.

Originality. Nowadays, you can find unusual drum sticks of different colors and shapes in music stores. For example, rubber ones are gaining popularity, promising to become "eternal", although they are quite expensive, they are damaged on the edges of cymbals, and are inconvenient for playing a rim shot on a snare drum. Colored ones attract attention, but they are not very practical, as over time they leave marks on the plates.

Armed with the above information, you can safely go to a reliable music store to choose drum sticks. This is a very personal activity, almost a ritual. Choose products that are comfortable for your hands and playing style, rather than those recommended by the consultant. Take the stick in your hand, feel it. Compare several models. With experience, you will already find a specific brand. So don't be afraid to experiment with different sizes and styles.