To remove the chimney, a hole is cut in the ceiling.

Everyone wants to make their home as comfortable and cozy as possible. Today there are a lot of different methods for solving problems of practicality and comfort, but the most effective and unchanged over the centuries is the construction of one of the many furnace structures. Today we will talk about how to build a fireplace stove with your own hands.

Design features

When they first hear about fireplace stoves, the owners of country houses often shrug their shoulders: why spend efforts on building a heating device of this design, if you can build one of the well-proven stoves such as Dutch, Swedes, hoods (bell-type stove), etc. the fact that they do not know the peculiarities of the work of fireplace stoves, and in fact, during their development, they combined all the best from two completely different heating devices.

Combining a stove with a fireplace allows you not only to heat the room with high quality, but also to make its interior unforgettable

Fireplace mode

In this case, the smoke from the hearth through a special smoke collector will be directed into the flue located on the back wall of the heater and then directly into the chimney. The construction of an almost straight channel allows you to avoid a decrease in draft, so the intensity of firewood burning will be maximum.

Using a heating unit as a fireplace is very convenient for irregular fireboxes, for example, in a country house or in country houses, where in winter they visit only on weekends. In this case, the temperature in the room will become comfortable literally within one hour.

Stove advantages

The combustion products do not "fly out into the chimney", as is the case with a fireplace, but are redirected to additional channels located on the sides of the heater, where they give off all the heat to the walls of the structure. The duration of combustion of the same amount of fuel during furnace combustion is significantly increased, since the operation of the unit most often occurs at the smoldering border. This is achieved by adjusting the air flow through the blower. Due to the expansion of the furnace massif, it has improved heat storage properties and allows even after complete combustion of the fuel to give off the accumulated heat for a long time.

If an irregular operating mode is expected, then most often the heat generator is operated according to the following scheme:

When firing up, a vertical channel is opened, which translates the unit into fireplace mode.
After the room temperature rises to a comfortable level, close the vertical duct valve and close the blower door to maximize the burning time.

As you can see, the fireplace stove is a successful symbiosis of several heating devices. However, its merits do not end there.

The use of a fireplace cassette increases the hygiene of the structure and facilitates the construction of the heater

Heating devices can be made both with open and closed fireplace insert. In the latter case, a heat-resistant glass door or a special cast-iron cassette (insert) is used. Limiting the amount of incoming air allows you to increase the operating time of the fireplace and increase its efficiency.

Varieties of fireplace stoves

The design considered above is the simplest implementation of the idea of \u200b\u200ba fireplace-stove. In fact, there are much more effective and functional structures in which they combine a separate fireplace and stove, install a hob, oven or heat exchange niches, etc.

Fireplace stove with stove bench

A massive structure with a heated lounger or hob is not suitable for every home. For example, for a summer residence it will be too large, since it will occupy a significant area of \u200b\u200bthe premises. If you install such a unit in a country house, then you can achieve amazing comfort: such a design just asks for installation in a living room combined with a kitchen.

Wall-mounted fireplace stove

Wall-mounted fireplace stove will save space in a small room

This structure can be built in a small house for heating two adjacent rooms. As in the design discussed above, the heating units can be fired separately. In this case, the fireplace can be used to quickly and comfortably heat a large room, while heating the back wall during operation of the stove will work to heat the bedroom. The disadvantage of this design can be considered the lack of a hob, which, however, is compensated by the compactness of the structure.

Square fireplace stove with hob and oven

Multifunctional fireplace stove with stove and oven

A multifunctional heater installed in a large room is able to divide it into several zones. From the side of the fireplace, you can create a cozy home atmosphere for relaxing and gathering with friends, while the area adjacent to the stove can be used for cooking and other household needs. Fortunately, for this, the fireplace stove has a large hob and a spacious oven. The shelf above the fireplace can also be used to the maximum - it is convenient to dry fruits, mushrooms or medicinal plants on it.

Advantages and disadvantages of combined heating devices

The advantages of fireplace stoves include:

the ability to quickly heat the room;
good heat storage capacity;
high performance;
heat transfer at the level of the best heating units;
versatility;
the ability to use for heating several rooms;
increased emissivity;
the presence of additional functional elements for cooking, drying clothes or rest.

As for the disadvantages, these include low efficiency and uneconomic design operating in the fireplace mode, the need to clean additional smoke channels, the need for good ventilation and high-quality air flow. The complexity of the structure, as well as the impressive dimensions of the structure, can be considered a clear disadvantage.

Device and principle of operation

The fireplace stove is installed on a foundation slab equipped with a drainage pad made of sand and gravel. The structure has two combustion chambers. The one that forms the working area of \u200b\u200bthe fireplace has an increased height and can be equipped with a glass door. Often it has a curved shape - thus it is possible to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe reflective surface.

Gas flow diagram inside a combined type heater

Under the firebox it is made both in the shape of a rectangle and a trapezoid. In the latter case, it tapers towards the rear wall, which is oblique, with a small threshold - a chimney tooth or a gas threshold. Its purpose is to retain carbon deposits that settle on the walls of the chimney. There is a smoke collector above the firebox, which goes into a straight gas channel.

The firebox has a reduced size and bottom air supply. Depending on the configuration of the heater, the vault of the firebox is equipped with a hob or covered with brickwork. The combustion products from the furnace rise into vertical channels, equipped in accordance with the schemes of Dutch or Swedish stoves.

The internal structure of the fireplace stove

If you plan to use the fireplace and stove simultaneously, then equip a common chimney with two separate chimney ducts.

In order to prevent the ingress of combustion products into the room, the smoke channels of both devices are equipped with valves, which are closed as necessary. In addition, the chimney is equipped with an additional damper that prevents heat leakage after the fuel has completely burned out.

Calculation of the main parameters, drawings and orders

First of all, you need to choose a place to install the unit, and then draw up a preliminary sketch of the shape and design. Having decided on the configuration and dimensions, you can start calculating the main elements of the heater. Since only experienced specialists can fully calculate the structure, we recommend taking as a basis the design and dimensions of one of the Swedish or Dutch stoves and integrating a fireplace of our own design into the finished structure. Of course, when choosing a heating device, it is necessary to correlate its power with your own heat needs.

As for the calculation of the fireplace part, it is carried out based on the dimensions of the room. You can use a ready-made table to determine the dimensions of the firebox. The ideal ratio of width to height is 3: 2, but the depth of the firebox is taken equal to 1/2 or 2/3 of its height.

Table for calculating the dimensions of the fireplace insert

It must be understood that the performance of the heater depends on how well the draft is organized, therefore the calculation of the chimney cross-section is no less important than the determination of the parameters of the furnace. Experienced stove-makers take its size equal to 1/10 of the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace window. The resulting value is rounded up in order to use a whole brick during the construction of a chimney. If a round chimney is installed, then its cross section must be at least 150 mm.

The fireplace stove, which we offer for manufacture, has a hob and can be used both for dividing a room into two zones and for heating an adjacent room. In the latter case, the rear wall of the structure is built into the wall.

The diagrams and orders of the heater are given below. With their help, you can not only repeat the existing design, but also develop your own. In addition, a visual picture of the structure of the internal chambers will allow you to understand the direction of gas flows and determine the surfaces with the most intense heating.

Schemes and orders of a multifunctional fireplace stove with a hob (photo gallery)

The order of the lower part of the fireplace stove The order of the upper part Diagram of the movement of gases through the fireplace channels Diagram of the furnace with an indication of the direction of smoke circulation

Preparatory work

Before starting construction, it is recommended to purchase the necessary materials and prepare the tool. After that, you can proceed to the preliminary stage - the choice of a place and the arrangement of the foundation. The oven itself is erected only after the base has completely dried.

Tools and materials

In order to personally build a stove combined with a fireplace, you will need a minimum set of tools. Most likely, you already have all of the following.

Building level.
Roulette and metal ruler.
Trowel (trowel).
Pickaxe hammer.
Grinder with cutting wheels for stone and metal.
Rubber mallet hammer.
Containers for water and solution.
Plumb line.
Joining.
Rule.
Construction corner.
Bayonet shovel.
Hammer.
Cord mooring.
Rammer.

To build the foundation you will need:

Waterproofing (you can use roofing material or polyethylene film).
Sand (it is better to use large river sand).
Medium fraction crushed stone.
Reinforcement mesh (can be replaced with pieces of reinforcement, metal rods or pieces of angles, pipes, etc.).
Edged boards for the construction of formwork.
Nails and steel wire.
Cement.

Quality cast iron will set the tone for the entire structure, so why not pick the best on the market?

You will also need other materials necessary for the construction of walls and the arrangement of various sections of the fireplace stove:

red solid brick of the M-150 brand;
fireclay refractory brick SHA-8;
clay and sand or a special composition for laying stoves;
metal corners with a shelf size of at least 5 cm;
plywood and boards for making a template (if the overlapping of the fireplace insert is in the form of an arch);
metal valves;
blower door;
sheet asbestos or basalt cardboard;
furnace door;
doors for cleaning channels;
grate bars;
cast iron stove with burners;
steel wire for the installation of furnace iron;
finishing materials (if not joining, but another type of decoration of external surfaces is planned).

In addition, if the design of the heater provides for the installation of a fireplace cassette, then it is necessary to purchase it at the design stage. This will allow you to accurately determine the number of bricks and know if there is a need for refractory materials.

How to choose a construction site

When determining the place of installation of a fireplace stove, one should follow the same rules as for the installation of familiar heating devices. When constructing a structure near wooden walls, between them and the furnace, a gap of at least 40 cm must be maintained. In addition, it is mandatory to install a heat-resistant screen made of metal sheet, asbestos board, drywall and other non-combustible materials.

When choosing a place to install a fireplace stove, you must consider all the options

The gap between the walls of the room and the stove is needed not only to ensure the safety of the structure, but also to periodically inspect and repair the side surfaces of the heater.

If the installation of the heating unit is planned at the periphery of the room, then one of the inner walls is chosen, since the proximity to the outer perimeter will contribute to the rapid cooling of the furnace and a decrease in its thermal efficiency.

Foundation preparation

For the laying of any stationary heater, a solid foundation is required. Since we are dealing with a structure, which, in fact, consists of two separate units, the foundation must ensure the stability and reliability of a wood-fired heat generator with an increased mass.

Increased requirements are imposed on the foundation of the fireplace stove, because it ensures the reliability of the entire structure

The scheme of work on the construction of a concrete slab, which is used as a support for the fireplace stove, is no different from the algorithm for pouring the foundation of other stationary heaters. First, mark the contour of the base - it should protrude beyond the perimeter of the heater by at least 100 mm. If the building is installed in a room with a wooden floor, then the part that falls under the stove is cut out. Further work is carried out in the following order:

Depending on the characteristics of the soil, a pit is dug with a depth of 0.5 to 0.7 m.
The bottom of the pit is filled with a 10 cm layer of sand, which is well compacted and spilled with water.
The sand is covered with the same layer of rubble, which must also be carefully tamped.
A reinforcing mesh is installed at a height of 5–7 cm from the crushed stone. To do this, you can use metal pins driven into the ground or lay the armored belt on wooden blocks.
Formwork is mounted along the contour of the foundation.
When installing the formwork, it is important to set the upper cut of all boards exactly at the level. In the future, this will facilitate the alignment of the plane of the foundation slab and create a good groundwork for ensuring the geometric accuracy of the structure.
A solution is made from sand, crushed stone and cement (ratio 3: 1: 4), which is poured into a prepared mold.
The concrete is compacted by bayonetting and ramming, and then leveled using the rule along the parallel formwork elements.

After the initial solidification of the solution, the structure is covered with a plastic wrap and left until completely set. Cement manufacturers recommend keeping the concrete for 28 days, but in fact, you can start building the heater in a week. The main thing is not to forget to separate the foundation from the masonry with a layer of waterproofing. There is no more suitable material for this than roofing material, with which concrete is covered in two layers.

Solution preparation

If factory building mixtures are used for laying bricks, then they are prepared according to the recommendations indicated on the package. We propose to take advantage of the experience of experienced stove-makers who say that there is no better material for laying stoves than clay.

Clay solution in consistency should resemble thick sour cream

Masonry mortar is made from clay and sand, adding water in the amount necessary to obtain the consistency of thick sour cream. In this case, the amount of sand is determined based on the fat content of the clay. In percentage terms, it can reach 30–35%. It is best to mix solutions with different compositions in several containers, mold small cakes from them and let them dry completely. For work, the composition is considered suitable, the sample of which will crack the least.

Before preparing the solution, clay must be kneaded and plant residues and other impurities must be removed from it. After that, the material is soaked in water for a day. Do not mix a large amount of working solution at once - it is prepared as needed. The fact is that during settling, the sand will still settle to the bottom, so additional mixing will be required. And this is a waste of time and energy.

Masonry cooking and heating stove-fireplace

Before proceeding with laying on the mortar, experts recommend folding the unit dry. This will allow you to get acquainted with the features of each row, identify possible difficulties and prepare the necessary structural elements for work.

After "dry" construction, you can start laying bricks "wet". Dry brick will draw moisture out of the mortar, so it needs to be soaked for several hours. This method is also good in that while the seams and masonry dry out at the same time, their mutual adhesion increases, which increases the mechanical strength of the entire structure.

When laying out some rows, it is required to use not a whole brick, but its half, or even a third. To do this, you can use an angle grinder, or you can split the building material with a pickaxe hammer.

Before working with the scheme, it is better to print the order on paper. In the process of work, the rows passed are noted - this additionally contributes to a clear organization of work. We also recommend using the instructions below, which have been compiled taking into account the recommendations of experienced stove-makers.

Step-by-step instruction

The first row is laid in continuous, constantly monitoring the level and geometric parameters. To make it easier for yourself, the edges of the base of the oven can be drawn with chalk on roofing felt.
The first row is laid with great care.
The second row begins to form gas ducts, a blower chamber and a furnace space.
In order for the thickness of the seam to be equal to the required 5 mm, a 7–8 mm mortar is applied to the brick.
Before proceeding to the third row, a wire is threaded into the special ears of the blower door. After that, the metal part is set in place and propped up with bricks. The wire is laid in brickwork - this will allow you to reliably fix the stove cast iron.
The stove door is fixed with metal wire, which is placed in the masonry seams.

During the operation of the furnace, the cast iron parts will heat up, and since metal and brick have different coefficients of thermal expansion, this will lead to cracks in the places of their installation. To prevent this from happening, gaskets made of asbestos or basalt sealant are installed between the masonry and the doors.
The fourth row begins to build a combustion chamber. In parallel, they begin to form the bottom (under) the fireplace insert. To make the overlap of the wood niche located under the fireplace, use a pair of metal corners, which will act as a support for the bricks of the upper row. The same corner is used to support bricks, which cover the door opening from above. We remind you that the walls of the furnace and fireplace chambers are laid with fireclay bricks, which are installed on the edge.
Installation of metal floors as supports for the top row bricks
In the fifth row, a grate is laid on the side bricks of the ash pan (blowing chamber). Basalt cardboard gaskets are installed between the red brick of the furnace walls and the refractory material of the furnace.
Before laying the sixth row, a combustion door is installed.
In the eighth row, a metal corner is installed above the door and up to the tenth row they are laid without additional elements.
In the eleventh row, a stove with burners is mounted, continuing to build up the array of the furnace with internal channels.
Before laying the slab, the junction is sealed with an asbestos or basalt seal
Starting the thirteenth row, a steel corner is laid above the fireplace insert. With bricks laid on a metal strip, they begin to overlap and form the mouth with a smoke collector.
In the course of work, the masonry is joined, preventing excessive drying of the solution. Otherwise, this method of finishing will look sloppy.
In the nineteenth and twentieth rows, they block the opening above the cast-iron plate. The same metal corners or pieces of steel reinforcement are used as floor supports. The internal channels and the body of the heater up to the 24th row are increased according to the ordering scheme.
On the 25th row, a cast iron valve is mounted. In this case, it is necessary to ensure its tight fit to the nearby bricks, for which an increased amount of mortar is used.
Installation of a stove valve
Up to the 50th row, work is carried out according to the scheme, building up the channels and walls of the fireplace stove.
From the 51st to the 53rd row, the heating device is overlapped, leaving only two vertical gas ducts for the exit of combustion products into the chimney.
From the 54th row, they begin to build a chimney.
On the 65th row, the chimney channel valves are mounted. They will protect the internal channels of the oven from dirt and moisture during downtime.

As can be seen from the order, the furnace was originally designed taking into account the use of silicate bricks, with which its walls were formed up to the fortieth row. If you like this design, then you can repeat the idea of \u200b\u200bthe developers. Otherwise, you can work with red bricks from the very first row. It is recommended to do the same in the case when the surface of the stove will be subjected to decorative finishing.

Chimney outlet through the ceiling

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The initial heating of the heater is carried out with a small amount of firewood, preventing an excessive increase in the temperature of the internal chambers. If the fireplace stove has separate chimney channels, then it is recommended to burn wood in two furnaces simultaneously. An even distribution of heat in the furnace mass will only benefit it. This process is carried out 2-3 times a day for 7-10 days. The fact that the oven is completely dry can be recognized by the absence of condensation on the internal metal surfaces. Some stove-makers put crumpled newspapers in the lower cleaning channels, according to the moisture content of which they judge the readiness of the heater for intensive use.

During the drying and testing of the heater, small cracks and tears may appear in the joints of the brickwork. To identify them, all external surfaces are thoroughly examined. Nevertheless, you should not rush to eliminate defects until the oven has been operating at maximum power for at least two to three months. Of course, this only applies to minor faults. Deep cracks, through which smoke or carbon monoxide can enter the room, are sealed immediately and very carefully. The external surfaces of the fireplace stove are revised regularly. As for cleaning the inner chambers and channels from soot, this work is performed every year, after the end of the heating season.

The advantages of fireplace stoves are obvious, since they can solve many problems associated with both heating and cooking, and with the design and decoration of the interior space of country houses. Such a heater will not be superfluous even in the presence of gas heating, as it will give confidence in the future and provide an incredibly warm and comfortable atmosphere. When choosing the design of the heat generator, it is necessary to take into account all the features of the room, and during operation, precisely adhere to the dimensions and be extremely assembled. Only the fulfillment of all the conditions will allow for many years to enjoy the warmth and comfort from a self-built fireplace stove.

A dacha for every Russian is a favorite vacation spot. According to the most recent sociological surveys, an increasing number of suburban areas are turning from places of work into places of recreation. Growing and harvesting is no longer a priority for experienced summer residents. Young people associate the dacha exclusively with a place of pleasant time. Summer cottages are visited today both in winter and summer. Accordingly, it will be necessary not only to heat the house well, but to constantly keep it warm. With a similar goal, it is worth considering building a fireplace stove for summer cottages.

It is worth knowing that the construction of furnace structures is not an easy task, but it can be comprehended if desired. Let's start such a necessary process as with our own hands.

List of required tools and materials:

basalt wool;
acrylic paint;
brick M-250 and facing brick;
construction tape;
building level;
sand, gravel, cement;
masonry mesh;
asbestos pipe 1 mm;
oven mixture;
reinforcing bar.

How the fireplace stove works, and where is it better to place it

The diagram of the movement of air masses and flue gases in the combustion part of the fireplace and the smoke collector.

A fireplace stove is a structure that combines the elements inherent in a bread oven. It is able to retain heat well. Fireplace - the presence of an open firebox, which allows you to quickly warm up the room. If you take into account a small stove in the design of such a stove, it is possible to cook food in it quite easily.

A feature of the device of the bread oven is that it has two chimneys and two furnaces. Therefore, it is possible to heat the fireplace separately and the stove separately. In such a design, the smoke channels will have a large number of smoke flows. With the help of such channels, the heat will remain in the oven for a long time. In addition, less fuel will be needed in order to perform heating. In terms of economy, this is a big plus.

It is worth considering such an environmental criterion as healthy heat. This term means the most favorable thermal air microclimate for humans. It is possible to use a variety of fuels for heating: peat, firewood, coal, and so on.

Speaking about where it is better to place a fireplace for a summer residence, which will be built with your own hands from heat-resistant bricks, you should know that this structure is solid. It would be most reasonable to think about its construction before the direct construction of the summer cottage. This will make it possible to determine the place for its foundation without any alterations.

However, there is an option of embedding the hearth into a completely finished country house. In this case, you will have to disassemble part of the roof and floor.

There are some tips for following the installation process.

The fireplace is quite heavy. Even the smallest fireplace weighs over 600 kg. Therefore, it is important to ensure that the foundation for the fireplace device is reliable.
A brick stove requires a lot of space - much more than building the fireplace itself.
In the finished building, it is best to build the Kuznetsov brick oven separately. This will avoid rework.

Brick fireplace stove

In case you plan to build a do-it-yourself fireplace stove for a summer residence, you should start with the construction of the foundation. The depth of the foundation will be approximately 1 m. At the bottom of the pit to be dug, it is necessary to make a waterproofing pad. To do this, use roofing material, which is folded in two layers.

In order to hold the masonry together, you need to make a clay solution. The clay is soaked for 3 days, after which it is mixed with sand. In this case, the brick is pre-soaked so that it does not take moisture from the solution.

It is impossible to build a Kuznetsov furnace at random. The necessary ordering is carried out depending on what kind of structure will be chosen for the manufacture of bricks (corner, built-in, wall-mounted). The order contains a description of each row with maximum accuracy.

Metal fireplace stove devices

The construction of a bread oven for a summer residence does not have to be made of bricks. It is quite possible to come up with an equivalent replacement. One option would be to install a metal bread oven.

The prototype of this type is the design, which is popularly called the stove. At the beginning of the 20th century, this type was installed exclusively in city apartments. Today, the installation of a bread oven is carried out in country houses. This design is able to easily fit into any interior.

There are the following methods for installing a similar chimney design:

If you are considering the installation of metal fireplaces in the country, which can be assembled by hand, you should pay attention to the installation of a chimney. This device must be fireproof. It can be installed in two ways:

outside the room;
indoors.

Indoor chimney

The chimney, which is located inside the house, has the best draft. Due to the fact that it is lined up strictly vertically, it is less damaged by contamination by soot that can form during combustion.

Less condensation will form in these chimneys. Such a pipe can create inconvenience in multi-storey buildings. The pipe will have to take the place of the upper floors.

Making a chimney outside the house

In the event that the Kuznetsov stove is attached with his own hands at the outer wall of the house, it will be quite convenient to make an outdoor chimney. In this case, not all people may like the metal pipe that runs along the entire wall of the house. In such a chimney, more moisture will form - condensation. This leads to regular draft blockages. In addition, it will cool somewhat faster, because it passes along the outer wall.

Despite some disadvantages, most people prefer installing a street pipe.

This is due to the fact that they have no desire to disassemble the roof device.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a fireplace in the country

First of all, you need a drawing.

Material preparation. The amount of material required will depend on the area to be heated. You will need a brick of the M-250 brand and facing brick, as well as acrylic facade paint and basalt wool, which has a thickness of 5 cm.

Next, the foundation is poured. Pouring is done with concrete, which is made for fundamental work in a ratio of 1: 3: 1 (1 part sand, 3 parts gravel, 1 part cement). It is reinforced with a masonry mesh, after which piles are necessarily dug in, which are made of an asbestos pipe with a length of 1 m.

The total number of piles that will be needed for such a fireplace should be at least 5. In each pile you will need to lay a reinforcing bar, after which everything is poured with concrete. The foundation should be at least 3 rows of masonry below floor level.

As a mixture for masonry, it is necessary to use an oven mixture, packaged in 25 kg. This mixture can be purchased in almost any building supermarket.

3 rows need to be done in order to bring the masonry to zero. This is how stove-makers express themselves when an ideal surface is displayed along the horizon with the help of starting rows. Several rows of masonry will be needed to make a perfectly flat stove base.

The process of laying the base of the firewood and fireplace. The foundation is being prepared, which will be used by the future wood-burning man and the fireplace chamber. Before you start laying, you need to take care of the approximate layout (without mortar) so that you can navigate the future masonry device. After the order is laid out, you need to start working with the solution. You will need to lay out 3 rows of the base.

The front side will be the camera for the fireplace, and the back will be the base for the firewood. It is very good if the heat of the stove will dry the logs before they are put into the firebox.

So that the metal corners used in the masonry to fix the hanging elements are not striking, they should be hidden in the inside of the masonry.

There will be an ordinary heating fireplace next to the wood-burning stove, for which you will need an ordinary drawing. At first, the ash pan was blown, then the chimney, screed and combustion chamber.

Fireplace cassette installation. Before installing the cassette, you will need to completely align everything according to the indications of the building level. The weight of the cassette is approximately 90 kg, therefore, its installation is a rather complicated and responsible process. Rows rise to close the fireplace.

The edges of the fireplace are glued with construction tape. This will make it possible to get rid of building flaws and scratches that could have been allowed. Rows of masonry rise flush with the top edge. The inner wall is made of ceramic red brick, all other walls are made of facing.

Using a cut-off wheel for ceramics, a brick of the required shape should be formed so that the decorativeness of the masonry could hide all the iron elements of the cassette that protrude.

Do not cut the mortar immediately after laying the rows. He should grip slightly.

The ceiling is cut through. The opening must be at least 75 cm on each side of the rafter.

A pipe is being made. Basalt wool is fixed along the outer walls of the masonry. All bricks on the outer edge should be glued with construction tape. Next, you should start laying.

The pipe is laid out to the roof slope at a distance of 50 cm. A hatch is installed in the upper part. A slot is made in the flooring and the crate, after which the pipe is laid out to the roof slope. The pipe itself is lined with basalt wool.

In country houses, expensive heating systems are rarely installed, because they are used, as a rule, only on rest days.

Stove - fireplace photo

You can quickly heat a country house on cold days with the help of a fireplace, but it heats up only during the firebox and cools down quickly, in addition, the fireplace cannot be used for cooking.

The combined fireplace stove has much more functionality - it can be used to heat a small house of 1-2 rooms, cook food on the hob, and a fireplace insert with heat-resistant glass will allow you to enjoy the sight of a live fire. It is quite simple to build such a fireplace stove, you can even do everything yourself if you follow the ordering scheme.

Before you build a do-it-yourself fireplace stove, you need to understand its design and decide on the installation site. The presented fireplace stove has two fireboxes on opposite sides: the stove insert with a hob is installed on the side of the kitchen or kitchen compartment and is used for cooking and heating the house, the fireplace insert is located on the side of the room. For safety, it is equipped with cast-iron doors with heat-resistant glass, which allows installation even on wooden log cottages.

Both fireboxes can be fired at the same time thanks to the widened chimney and a system of valves, with which each chimney can be shut off separately. To improve draft and easier cleaning, ash pans with doors are equipped under both fireboxes; they are separated from the combustion chambers by grate bars.

The fireplace stove is installed on a foundation made of concrete, brick or rubble concrete. If the foundation is being erected simultaneously with the construction of the house, it is necessary to separate it from the common base with a sand or gravel pillow.

When designing a fireplace stove and chimney, it is also necessary to take into account the location of beams, rafters and other floor elements, and penetrations through them must be performed in compliance with fire safety requirements.

Necessary materials

To build a fireplace stove in your country house you will need:

A strong desire to abandon the paid installation and do everything as much as possible with your own hands;
Furnace bricks - about 8 hundred pieces;
Clay-based heat-resistant masonry mixture –200 kg;
Fireplace door with heat-resistant glass, size 500x500mm;
Cast iron furnace door, 200x250 mm;
Blowing doors, 120x250 mm and 120x120 mm;
Three clean doors for chimney cleaning, 120x120 mm;
Two grate bars for furnaces, 200x250 mm and 250x400 mm;
Cast iron hob with burners, 410x720 mm;
Steel corner with a shelf 40x40 mm and a steel strip 40 mm - 3 meters each;
Steel sheet 3 mm thick and approximately 60x60 cm in size;
Heat insulating sheets - asbestos or basalt, thickness 4 mm;
Annealed wire for securing the doors;
Sandwich pipe and chimney fittings;
Boards and waterproofing roll materials for formwork;
Concrete and rubble stone for the foundation;
Dry construction sand, crushed stone;
Fire-resistant flooring - tiles, porcelain stoneware, metal sheets.

When buying a brick, pay attention to its appearance: the brick should not be burnt, as evidenced by the glossy sheen of its surface, or unfinished - fragile and uneven in color on the chip.

Foundation for fireplace stove

How to make a foundation for a fireplace from monolithic concrete is described in the article "". The following describes the technology for erecting a rubble foundation - a cheaper option that requires less cement consumption for concrete.

The pit for the fireplace is dug in the place where it will be located, in accordance with the plan. The depth of the pit is equal to the deepening of the foundation of the building itself, the dimensions are 5-10 cm more than the overall dimensions of the hearth of the furnace. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of rubble and tamped, leveling.
Formwork is erected to the floor level in the house from planed boards or plywood sheets, coated inside and outside with bitumen waterproofing, and dried.
A large rubble stone is laid at the bottom of the pit, the space between it is covered with crushed stone with an average particle size of 50 mm.
A portion of the cement-sand mortar is prepared: 1 part of cement is mixed with 2-3 parts of sand, after which it is diluted with water to the state of liquid sour cream. Poured onto a layer of stone and rubble.
Prepare the next portion of the solution, lay out the stone again, fill the gaps with rubble and fill it with the solution. This continues to a level 5-7 cm below the floor. The top layer is leveled with cement mortar and the foundation is left for 3-7 days to cure.

The first layer of brick forming the bottom row of the hearth is leveling. It is placed according to the first row scheme on a layer of waterproofing - roofing material, using a thickened layer of solution - up to 1 cm.

Fireplace stove masonry technology

They put the fireplace stove on a heat-resistant solution based on clay and sand. Ready-made mixtures are sold in stove stores, but if there is a quarry with good oily clay near your dacha, you can use it. The solution in this case is prepared as follows: the clay is soaked in a barrel of water for a week, removing foam and floating debris from the surface. Drain excess water and stir the resulting liquid solution, gradually adding sand to it until the solution begins to stick off the spatula almost immediately. If desired, add up to 10% cement or glue for porcelain stoneware to the solution, mix. After that, the solution is ready to work. It is impossible to soften the solution with cement with water, so it is better to add cement in portions, in the amount of solution that you can use up in an hour and a half.

Stove masonry technology - fireplace photo

The diagram and order of the fireplace stove are shown in the figures.

Step by step laying order of the stove - fireplace

The masonry technology is as follows:

The first row forms under the oven. It can be laid from substandard bricks - chipped, cracked. In this case, be sure to use a level and align the row as much as possible.
In the second row, the installation of the blower doors begins. A strip of asbestos or basalt sheet must be laid between the door frame and the masonry. The door frame is fixed on the brick of the first row with metal pins, for example, nails, through the holes. If they don't line up with the seams, you can carefully drill through the brick in the first row. The rest of the laying is carried out according to the scheme.
In the third row, they continue to fix the doors with a wire threaded through the holes in the sides of the frame and tucked into the seams of the masonry. In addition, on top of the third row, the grate of the fireplace insert is laid according to the scheme.
In the fourth row, the blower doors are closed with bricks, fixing in the same way on the wire. They put the grate of the furnace firebox. On the side, they begin to lay out the smoke channel, put a cleaning door. The solution from the inside of the flue duct is carefully smoothed by hand to avoid roughness and excessive deposition of soot and soot.
In the fifth row, they begin to install the door of the fireplace insert, fixing it in the same way on metal pins. It is much heavier than the blower door, so it must be temporarily additionally secured vertically, with the help of wire. An asbestos strip is laid between the door frame and the brick around the perimeter.
In the sixth row, the door of the furnace firebox is placed in the same way, and then they are laid according to the scheme from 6 to 8 rows. In the 9th row, the door of the furnace firebox is closed on top with a brick, the 9th and 10th rows are laid out according to the scheme.
A hob must be laid on a brick of 11 rows. Therefore, the brick is first laid out dry, adjusted, the position of the slab is marked with a marker, after which the brick is removed and, with the help of a grinder, recesses are made for laying the slab so that it lies flush with the brick.
In the 12th row, the door of the fireplace insert is laid on top with a brick, not forgetting to fasten it to the holes in the frame with wire. A steel corner is laid on top of the brick according to the scheme. Rows 13 to 15 are laid according to the scheme.
Laying 12 rows of bricks for the stove - fireplace
In the 16th row, they begin to make an arch above the hob, for this, in accordance with the scheme, a corner and a steel strip are laid in the front part above it. At 17, bricks are laid on top of them, and next to them again a steel strip to support the arch. In the 18th row, it is completely laid with bricks, and a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 mm is placed at the installation site of the valves. A piece of steel angle is fixed to the side of the brick in accordance with the diagram - it serves as a support for the valve.
In row 19 between the bricks, grooves are made slightly larger than the thickness of the metal of the valves - about 5 mm, the valves are made according to the scheme and put in place, checking the overlap of the smoke channels. Install two more cleaning doors.
In row 20, a steel strip is installed above the smaller valve. Laying is continued according to the scheme. In row 21, a steel strip is laid on top of the masonry - the chimney will rest on it.
From the 22nd row, the laying of the chimney begins: the smoke channels narrow and gradually overlap. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme from 22 to 26 row, in which a common valve is installed on the frame made of a steel corner.
The furnace is overlapped - rows 27 and 28, after which they proceed to the chimney. It is laid according to the scheme of 29 rows with a dressing, shifting the rows by half a brick, to the desired height. For the device of a complex chimney, you can use a heat-insulated pipe of the "sandwich" type and various adapters, elbows, penetrations and support elements.
After the end of the masonry, the fireplace stove is dried until the masonry mortar dries, after which they slowly begin to heat.
Finished stove - brick fireplace

The presented design of the fireplace stove is universal: it will help you quickly warm up in cold weather when kindling the fireplace, prepare food, and also heat the house well due to the long smoke channel, when passing through which the smoke heats the bricks strongly. The heat output from such a stove is much higher than from a conventional fireplace, and this will allow you to spend less firewood, while enjoying the view and warmth of the fire.

Video instruction: oven - do-it-yourself fireplace

Choosing the best stove with fireplace

The new year 2013 presented new requirements to stove-makers; today, the laying of simple heating stoves and low-efficiency fireplaces with zero efficiency is less and less ordered. Every second owner of a country house or suburban cottage wants to have a universal, multifunctional brick fireplace stove... There are many reasons for this, one of which is an increase in the standard of living and the emerging craving for the aesthetics of an open hearth that can dry and refresh the air in the house in a few tens of minutes. At the same time, no one thought of giving up the comfort of the heat of the oven and the possibility of cooking food on the stove, drying fruits and baking bread in the oven.

Experienced stove-makers can argue about the advantages of a stove over a fireplace to infinity, the customer does not care about this if he wants a fireplace stove, it is unlikely to be able to convince him. If the first is quite clear, then the choice of the best model for a particular room arises constantly. In this regard, I decided to create a section in which there will be combined the best drawings of fireplace stoves for all occasions, with different sizes and arrangement of furnace elements. There are options here, from small heating units in 3x4 bricks to huge multifunctional collets with a large cast-iron stove, oven and hot water boiler. Fireplace stove drawings are arranged in order of popularity 1-best, 10-least popular. Readers with the help of their comments will have the opportunity to influence the rating of the presented fireplace stove.

Order of the 10 best fireplace stoves

Once again I want to remind you that all the drawings of the stoves in this section are tested by dozens of stove-makers, and fully comply with the fire safety requirements, the conditions for reliable traction and long service life.

A novice stove-maker always wants to lay down some outlandish stove. Desirable simple. And also beautiful and effective. It is a pity that the order of such constructions is not so much.

Among them, the oven-fireplace with a bread chamber stands out favorably, operating according to the scheme popular in the Scandinavian countries. The scheme is not without flaws, but it has a great degree of universalism. There is a massive universal heating oven, a decorative fireplace, a chamber for baking bread. Simple design, versatility, relative compactness. A good option for a country house, capable of heating an area of \u200b\u200babout 25-30 square meters.

We offer an order that allows you to fold the stove on your own, with only minimal skills in stove craft. From the performer, a simple primary skill in working with clay and brick is enough. The rest is simple.

Materials for the device of a fireplace stove with a bread chamber:

1 - Furnace bricks - about 1100 pcs. If you use fireclay brick, then it will take about 150 units. (The number of bricks is given without taking into account the costs of the foundation and chimney).
2 - Knitting wire
3 - Doors-cleaning - 3 pieces
4 - Blower furnace with air regulation
5 - Fireplace door for firebox 500x500 mm
6 - Basalt cord - 2 sets
7 - Pipe gate valve into brick - 3 pieces
8 - Grate with a working area of \u200b\u200bone or two bricks

Ordering the masonry of the fireplace stove

DIY masonry is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Just don't be afraid. And follow the order carefully. Further it will be simple.

First row we spread out from the calculation the body of the furnace with an area of \u200b\u200b4x5 bricks and add an allowance for the baseboard. Although you can do without it. But with him somehow more elegant.

Second row We are already laying out the finishing perimeter of the oven:

We form internal channels. On the third row we put cleaning channels and a blower door. They are attached to wire and clay mortar, without basalt cord:

Fourth row we add the height of the doors:

Fifth row we close the doors, put the grate. If the height of the room allows, it is advisable to make another row of masonry - a more massive one will come out under... When using fireclay bricks, it's time to start laying them. We make only under... The external walls and partitions of the canals continue to be continued:

6 row - we form a tray for firewood. You can do without the bevel of the hearth, as in the picture, but this way the firebox will work better. We separate the channels. The small channels are descending. Large ones are ascending. We apply an oblique dressing. It is possible without her, but with her it is safer. If, for reasons of simplicity, you start to apply an oblique dressing rarely, then it is always oriented to the outside, as in the figure. Without connecting with the walls of the firebox. The grate is as close as possible to the combustion door. If it is poured deeper, towards the rear wall of the firebox, smoke is possible - air turbulence will block the exit from the firebox into the smoke channels.

7 row. The furnace door is installed. It is installed on a sealant - basalt cord impregnated with clay solution.

8-13 rows. Raise the firebox to the height of the fireplace door:

14-15 rows. A place for the onion lintel is being prepared. Many people prefer to make bevels for it right in place, choosing a brick with a grinder. You can also file it in advance. The first option is more accurate. The second is less dusty and dirty.

The door overlap is brick-thick. Cannot be placed on anchors. Only bow or arch (if the fire door is with an arch). It is advisable to put wire into the masonry joints:

16 row. We begin to shape under the bread chamber. We overlap without iron, with a simplified wedge overlap:

17 row. We build up under the bread chamber. We follow the dressing of the slotted overlap:

Row 18. We mount the baking chamber door. We put it, like the furnace, on a basalt cord:

19 row. We continue the bread chamber. We open the passage for gases from the bread chamber to the descending channels:

20 row. We bring the entrance to the descending channels to a height of two bricks.

21-22 row. We block the descending channels, form the heels under the vaulted ceiling of the bread chamber.

23 row. We mount the arch of the bread chamber. We leave the channel of the chimney passage and close it with a latch with a long handle.

Carefully! The valve will get very hot in the process! Therefore, we put it on asbestos or basalt!

The vault will have to be trimmed at the top to level the masonry. Or lay out another row - if the size of the room allows.

24 row. We tie up the arch of the bread chamber. If there is a free room height, another row can be laid out. The minimum is shown here:

25-27 row. We form a cap over the bread chamber. The columns under the ceiling are placed on the basis of the location of the chimney - its place is not strictly regulated, it can be installed at any point of the furnace ceiling - it is necessary to build on the most convenient passage of the roof. Simply put: we look at the beams. Cleaning is immediately put in place - the installation point is again chosen along the pipe - preferably as close to it as possible. Not shown in the figure:

28-30 row. Mandatory three rows of overlap. Next is the pipe. Install chimney valves for ease of use - 2 pcs. one above the other to reduce heat loss:

When lighting up for the first time, always open the slide that closes the channel from the bread chamber to the pipe. Many stove-makers call it "straight line". This manipulation will warm up the pipe. In the future, the firebox is carried out as usual. When operating in furnace mode, this valve is always closed. If we operate as a fireplace, then it is always open.

Kind and cozy warmth to you at any time of the year!