How to properly make a shed at the dacha. How to build a warm wooden shed with your own hands from timber and boards? How to build a utility block with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

There should be a barn on the territory of every private house. It will solve various economic problems. This type of room is intended for storing tools, firewood, gardening equipment, workpieces, fertilizers or any machinery. You can equip a workshop in the barn.

Today, there are a huge number of options for building a barn with your own hands, it can be: with or a gable roof, insulated or without. Below we will look at how to build a high-quality frame shed with your own hands at an affordable price and simple drawings and diagrams.

Despite the complexity of the design, it is necessary to take into account some details before its construction:

Foundation for a frame shed

Main stages of work:

“Stools” made of burnt wood are installed along the entire perimeter of the structure and at the corners. Their width is 240 mm – that’s two bricks, and their height is exactly 195 mm – that’s 3 bricks.
The masonry must be carried out with bandaging of the seams; M400 grade cement is ideal for preparing the mortar. To avoid skewing the building, pay attention to the vertical and horizontal of the brick columns.

Hollow concrete blocks, which are filled with a special concrete solution, can be installed as columns.

For the roof - one of its sides is raised with the help of bars to the required slope. When mounting and installing rafters, they must protrude beyond the edge of the roof by about 300 mm. And it is necessary to set up the rafter legs.

Cross boards must be installed with a projection. Next, make the sheathing to install the roofing material. According to the type of material, it can be solid or discharged. Roofing felt or membrane film is suitable as a waterproofing material.

Let's look at the stages of a do-it-yourself frame shed:

Use a variety of materials: corrugated sheets or boards; they are fastened vertically and horizontally.
You can use it, but this option will be much more expensive.
The inside of the utility unit can be insulated, it all depends on its purpose.

DIY plastic or metal frame shed

Modern technologies in construction today are a shed made of plastic or metal.

Advantages of this type of buildings:

Such options will be ideal for those who save their time and do not want to spread construction “dirt” on their site.
Household items are delivered packed in boxes - this ensures convenient delivery to the desired point.
This building can be easily moved, because... Its installation and dismantling is quite simple and will take several hours.
A barn made from these materials has a beautiful appearance due to its varied colors.
One of the advantages is its practicality; it does not require special care, such as treatment with special antiseptics or seasonal painting. Caring for this utility unit consists of regular washing with water.
Its installation does not require a specific foundation; a base of crushed stone or a sand-gravel mixture is sufficient.

When building or installing a finished frame barn, it must be taken into account that any building of this type must be removed a certain distance from the street line. And the position on the site and orientation to the cardinal points are the personal choice and preferences of the owner.

When starting to build a summer house or their own home, probably everyone thought about making a utility block with their own hands.

A barn is a must-have item on any site; it can be used as a warehouse for tools and gardening equipment; compact equipment can be stored in the utility room, and some owners expand it with a summer kitchen, shower or bathroom, and organize a poultry house.

In the video in the article you can see the types of utility units and their use.

Currently, a building for a summer residence can be purchased in the form of a finished structure, assembled or disassembled, or you can build it yourself.

In order to choose the place where the utility unit will be located, you first need to understand for what purposes it will be used, based on this, determine its dimensions.

If you plan to equip a building for keeping poultry, small livestock, or a toilet, this means that the utility block must be located at a distance of at least 12 meters from the dwelling and at least 4 meters from the neighbors.

If the barn is equipped for a shower, it means that the building and the neighboring plot will be 1 meter from each other, and the distance between the utility block and the house will be 8 meters.

It is better if the utility block at the dacha is universal, in which you can place a bathroom and shower on the edges, and make a room for household needs in the middle.

If your plot is limited in area, consider as an option the construction of a multi-storey utility block with a cellar in the basement and a summer kitchen on the second floor.

What to build a utility block from?

Having decided on the location of the shed at the dacha, think about what material you will build the outbuildings from: wood, metal profiles, foam blocks. Perhaps it will be combined.

The construction of a utility block from corrugated sheets has recently become very popular.

By choosing this material, you will get quick installation of the structure, long-term use - the corrugated sheets are lightweight, have an anti-corrosion coating and different colors.

In the countryside, to build a shed, they often use the frame method, since it is quite simple.

Wooden blocks are used as a frame, from which a utility block is erected, and then covered with sheets of corrugated sheets. The wooden frame can be replaced with a metal profile frame.

The instructions for building a shed from corrugated sheets consist of the following steps:

foundation;
base;
frame;
walls and roof;
insulation and finishing.

Laying the foundation of the building

Having decided on the location and material, you can proceed directly to construction, that is, lay the foundation of the utility block.

First you need to make markings and mark the placement of pillars (pipes) in the corners and in the center of long walls along the perimeter of the future building.

We remove a layer of soil about 20 centimeters, fill half of the hole with sand (10 centimeters in depth), compact it thoroughly, forming a foundation.

We are preparing places for the pillars. We dig holes 1 meter deep and compact the bottom of each hole with a mixture of sand and fine gravel, creating a foundation.

We install the pipes, check the level to ensure there are no distortions, and fill the voids with sand. And fill it with cement.

First, fill the hollow part of the pipes by about one-third with cement and raise it slightly. Next, fill the remaining part of the pillars with cement.

To secure the pipes more firmly, you can use reinforcement by installing it in the base of the corner posts and filling it with cement.

The foundation of the utility block must dry out, this takes approximately 2 weeks. During this time, it is necessary to protect it from sunlight, and periodically moisten the sandy base cushion.

Assembling the base of the utility unit

While the foundation of the outbuilding is drying, you can begin to assemble the frame frame of the shed, starting from its base - the frame.

We assemble wooden blocks at least 15 centimeters thick into a 6x3 meter rectangle. We fix them together with self-tapping screws, additionally using the half-tree method, which is shown in the photo.

Photo of beam fastening.

The foundation and frame have a layer between them. Typically, roofing felt is used as a building material, the ends of which are bent inward to prevent water from collecting.

We treat everything with an antiseptic to protect against moisture, mold, and insects. Drying oil can be used as an antiseptic by covering the surface in two layers.

We reinforce the base with three transverse logs, placing them at the same distance from each other.

Building a barn frame

To make a barn, or rather, its frame, we will need wooden beams 10 and 15 centimeters thick.

We assemble the structure, starting from the ends, not forgetting about the window openings if you plan to install windows.

We screw the vertical posts to the base with self-tapping screws, connecting the beams together with steel corners.

To fix the frame, we add 2-4 vertical beams on each side, and for rigidity we install oblique strips between them.

Where the windows will be located (usually on the end walls in the middle), we install vertical jumpers between the middle beams, creating a window opening from them.

To make a doorway, we place separate vertical bars for it in the middle of the wall at a distance of 85 centimeters from each other.

The horizontal jumper is located at least 2 meters.

If the roof is sloping, the height of the vertical beams will accordingly differ at the front and rear walls; for the end walls, in this case, racks of different heights are used, cut at an angle at the top.

For a utility unit consisting of several sections, additional partitions are installed, and doorways are formed depending on the expected number of doors.

Examples of sectional utility units are shown in the following video story.

To make it easier for you to assemble the frame, draw a construction diagram. Drawings will greatly simplify construction work.

Assembly of rafters and roofing

The rafters are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the holes must be drilled in advance - this will avoid cracks. On the beams, additional cuttings must be made at the fastening points.

We lay the rafters on the frame, decorate the overhangs and cornices using an edged board.

Floorboards can be laid both before and after the rafters are installed. When attaching boards to the transverse joists, do not forget to use a level so that the floor is not deformed; it is better to use self-tapping screws of the “counting” type.

Important! To temporarily fasten the beams together, use regular nails before finally connecting the parts with self-tapping screws.

The future shed must be completely treated with an antiseptic, and only after this can the roof be covered and the framing of the frame begin.

We make a roof, walls, insulate the barn

When forming a roof, remember that it requires a mandatory waterproofing layer. If you plan to cover the roof with wooden boards, then you can safely use traditional roofing felt.

The roof can be covered with euro slate, corrugated sheets, or metal tiles. In this case, roofing felt can be replaced with plastic film.

How to sheathe the roof and make a waterproofing layer, see the following video story.

The walls can be sheathed with sheets of chipboard, corrugated board, clapboard, chipboard sheets. Always start from the front wall from the bottom up. The building is insulated with polystyrene foam or glass wool.

The inside of the barn is lined with plywood and boards; corrugated sheets are rarely used for interior decoration.

The utility block is ready, all that remains is to connect it with electricity and make sockets. Install cabinets, shelves, and other furniture at your discretion.

Next to a private house or cottage there is always a free plot of land where you can build a small but extremely useful structure - a barn. Its purpose is very diverse, from storing equipment and solid fuel for the stove, to keeping animals. Wood is most often used to build a shed. And this is completely justified: it is affordable, durable and easy to use. You can build the structure yourself, following simple step-by-step instructions.

The first questions that will need to be resolved before starting construction: where and what to build the barn from? The area of plots is often limited, so you need to use the land to the maximum. As an option, you can build a shed against one of the walls of the house or fence. If there is enough space, then you can choose absolutely any place, the main thing is that the building is convenient to use.

You can build a wooden shed from different materials:

The first two types of wood will provide a high-quality, durable and warm construction, but the construction process requires large financial and physical costs. The remaining types are suitable for lightweight structures that will be used as storage space; they will certainly cost less, and even one person can build such a shed.

Advantages of a wooden shed:

Possibility to build “warm” and “cold” versions of the structure;
Fast construction time;
Availability and wide range of materials for construction;
Ecological purity of wood;
Possibility of using any decorative finish and lightweight types of foundation.

Don't forget about the appearance of the barn. It should be harmoniously combined with other buildings on the site. Exterior unity can be achieved through modern finishing materials, such as siding or corrugated sheeting.
In order not to make a mistake when calculating the amount of materials, it is necessary to prepare in advance a plan with the exact dimensions of the shed and make markings on a plot of land.

You also need to stock up on fasteners, tools and materials for arranging the foundation and decorative finishing, if required.

Construction of a shed from timber or logs

If the outbuilding must last for many years, then it is best to choose timber or logs as the basis for the walls, because the service life of buildings made from them can reach 70 years. These materials will provide high-quality thermal insulation in case of keeping livestock or poultry indoors. The building is also suitable for storing equipment. To build a large barn, additional labor will be required.

It is better not to use a shed made of timber or logs for storing firewood, since it does not have sufficient ventilation to dry the heating oil.

Foundation preparation

If there is no time to prepare the foundation, you can replace it with pillars dug to a depth of 60-80 cm.

The principle of laying the foundation is similar to that described above.

Strapping and erection of frame

It is more convenient to start construction by arranging a site that will serve as a floor and foundation for the construction of walls. The lower trim should be made of 150x150 mm timber, treated with an antiseptic. The foundation must first be covered with roofing felt to protect the structure from moisture.

The strapping bars can be joined end-to-end and secured with metal corners, or in half a tree. In the second case, the joints must be secured with nails or studs.

The floor joists are attached to the frame with special brackets or corners. To do this, 50-60 mm boards are placed on edge and fixed with self-tapping screws onto the beams in increments of no more than 60 cm. The location of the joists must be aligned along the upper edge of the trim so that when laying the floor the surface is level.

The next stage is installation of the floor. It can be fixed with self-tapping screws or nails. It is important to ensure that there are no gaps, and that the outer contours of the floorboard or OSB coincide with the bottom trim.

Then the racks are mounted at the corners of the base and secured with the top trim. To make your work easier when building a pitched roof, the racks can be immediately adjusted to size, two of them should be 50-80 cm higher. For a gable roof, all racks must be made the same. Next, additional supports are installed along the perimeter of the walls every 50 cm and openings are formed for windows and doors.

Roof construction

It is advisable to erect a shed roof for a barn - it is quick and economical. Moreover, the attic in such small buildings is rarely used.

If the top frame is at an angle, then the rafters from the boards can be laid directly on it, turning them on the edge. The distance between them should be no more than 50 cm so that the roof can withstand a large snow load.

Plank sheathing is laid on the rafter system. The pitch depends on the roofing material. Under roofing felt, the sheathing must be continuous; under ondulin, boards can be laid at a distance of no more than 40 cm; under corrugated sheeting, a step of 60 cm is acceptable.

Wall cladding and installation of doors and windows

You can cover the walls with OSB or boards (edged and unedged). The slabs and edged boards are laid end-to-end and secured with self-tapping screws or nails. Unedged lumber is mounted with an overlap so that there are no gaps between the boards.

It is better to use ready-made windows, since their manufacture requires the skills of a carpenter. The door can also be custom made from wood, metal or plastic, or cut from OSB board and reinforced with bars.

All stages of the construction of a frame shed can be clearly studied in the presented video.

Finishing

OSB or board does not always look attractive. In addition, if the boards are waterproof, then the lumber needs protection from moisture, sunlight and insects. Therefore, decorative cladding of a frame barn is an almost mandatory condition for durability and aesthetic appearance.

You can also arrange a cellar under the barn, which you can make yourself.

The building can be sheathed with different types of materials. When choosing them, you should focus on the exterior of adjacent buildings. For example, siding can perfectly imitate brick, logs and other materials; if corrugated sheets are used in the decoration of the house, then the barn should be sheathed with the same, choosing the appropriate shade.

House or country outbuildings are most often built from wood and its derivatives. These materials provide variability in construction and the quality of the finished shed. If all the work is done correctly, the building will last a very long time, retain its attractive appearance and will not lose its functionality. Therefore, it is so important to follow all stages of construction from laying the foundation to decorative finishing.

Are you the owner of a country plot? If yes, then you know that at your dacha you simply cannot do without a utility room (or shed). In it you can store utility materials, various tools, agricultural equipment and garden items. This is a necessary building, and if you don’t have one, you can think about building one. Moreover, you can build a utility block for your dacha with your own hands, since no special labor or special skills are required. We invite you to study material that will help you make a shed from start to finish.

Stage 1: design

Construction of a utility block can help you solve several problems:

the room will serve you as a workshop and storage for tools and equipment;
the building may have additional areas such as a shower and toilet;
it can be equipped not only with a bathroom, but also with a place to relax - a room with upholstered furniture and amenities.

All this can be achieved through planning. The barn can be one of the 3 types of buildings listed above, or it can include all of them. It all depends on your needs and desires.

Don't assume that a shed should be inconspicuous and ugly. You don't have to set yourself the task of doing it at minimal cost. Thanks to effort and work, you can make a wonderful outbuilding that will not be inferior in beauty and functionality to your country house.

When making drawings, think about the size, height and number of compartments you need. Moreover, when designing a building, remember that it must meet the following criteria:

Maximum correctly distributed space.
Long service life and reliability.
Carrying out the necessary communications: electricity and water. If your utility block has a toilet, you need to provide it.

You won’t spend a lot of money on building such a shed, so when choosing a material, choose a wooden beam. This is the most common and suitable material. For example, buildings made from ordinary boards will not last long. But the utility block on a foundation with a frame made of timber meets all the requirements and will serve you for many years.

If you cannot draw up a project for your shed, use the World Wide Web. Especially for those who do not know how to make projects, people post ready-made drawings. They can be downloaded for free or purchased for a nominal amount.

To create a utility unit, prepare the following tools and materials:

axe, shovel, screwdriver, hacksaw, electric drill with a set of drills, plane;
beams, cladding boards, metal anchors;
finishing material for roofing and walls, cladding panels, thermal insulation (if necessary).

Stage 2: material procurement

To make a utility block, the dimensions of which are 6 m long, 3 m wide and 3 m high, with a pitched roof and two interior spaces, you need to prepare the following materials:

plywood – 28 m2;
roofing felt – 28 m2;
timber 150×150 mm – 0.65 m 3;
timber 150×100 mm – 0.37 m 3;
timber 100×100 mm – 1.2 m 3;
timber 50×100 mm – 0.15 m 3;
edged board 30 mm – 2.2 m 3;
floorboard 40 mm – 0.37 m3;
asbestos-cement pipe Ø 150 mm – 6 pcs. 1200 mm each;
gravel, sand, cement;
fittings – Ø 10 mm, length 350 mm, 4 pcs.

This completes the preparatory work. The next step is to position your shed correctly.

Stage 3: choosing a location

Definitely, to build a utility unit on your own, you will not need any special cash deposits. But be prepared for the fact that the construction process will take up your time and effort. To get the job done faster, ask your household or neighbors for help. However, just before construction, you need to choose where to place the shed so that it is convenient and meets the requirements. Construction norms and rules (SNiP) in paragraph 02.30.97 state that:

if the utility block will contain pets, birds, or will serve as a latrine, it must be placed at a distance of 12 m from the walls of a residential building and 4 m from the border of the neighbors’ property;
if it will be used as a shower stall, it must be placed at a distance of 8 m from a residential building and 1 m from the border of the neighbors' property.

If you neglect these requirements, you may have serious problems when you want to sell your land. In this case, the state will refuse to formalize a sale transaction with buildings until their placement complies with the standards that apply on the territory of the Russian Federation.

Having chosen the optimal location, we smoothly moved on to the main question of how to build a utility block in the country. Let's find out.

Stage 4: laying the foundation

So, our goal is to build a building 6x3x3 m. Since the building itself will not produce any special load on the foundation, it can be made columnar. To make it easier for you, we will divide all the work into separate stages.

At the place where the barn will stand, you need to remove the top layer of fertile soil around the perimeter of the building, having previously marked the future site based on the project.
The prepared area needs to be compacted, 10 cm of sand should be poured on top and compacted thoroughly again.
Such a building requires six pillars. In the intended location you need to drill or dig a hole Ø 20 cm, 120 cm deep. Please note that the pillars that will be installed are also 120 cm long.
At the bottom of the holes you need to pour a 10 cm layer of sand or gravel, and then compact this pillow.
Place sections of asbestos-cement pipes into the holes. Align them strictly vertically. To fix the pipes, the remaining space between the hole and the walls must be filled with sand and compacted.
It's time for the first stage of pouring the pillars. Prepare concrete and pour it inside the asbestos-cement pipe to 1/3 of its entire length. Then the pipe must be raised by 10–15 cm, leveled, fixed and waited for 2–3 days. Such manipulations made it possible to form a concrete base at the bottom of the pits. The diameter of the base will be larger than the diameter of the pipe, which will not allow the columnar foundation to rise when the earth begins to swell in winter.
After the concrete has dried, the rest of the pipe cavity can be filled. But before that, prepare 4 reinforcement rods Ø 10 mm, thanks to which the timber grillage will be securely fixed to the pillars. They will need to be sunk into 4 corner posts. Of the total length of the trimmed reinforcement, 15 cm is needed to be inserted into the pipe, and 20 cm will protrude.
If you consider the reinforcement fixation unreliable, you can fix anchors in such a foundation. The frame is placed on them and secured with nuts. In this case, the end of the anchor and the nut must be recessed into the grillage.
After preparing the solution, fill each pipe with it. As you pour, compact the concrete with a bayonet to force air out of it. Then install the embedded reinforcement exactly in the center.
It remains to wait for the solution to harden, which will occur after 2-3 weeks. During this time, you need to cover the pillars from the sun and, in dry weather, moisten them with water.

This completes the foundation installation work.

Stage 5: assembly and installation of the grillage (frame)

The frame must be assembled from beams with a cross-section of 150x150 mm, its size will be 6x3 m. The frame will consist of four sections, measuring 1.5x3 m. The beams that form the frame are connected to each other by half-wood grooves. They need to be fixed with special two (if the frame is installed on an anchor) or four (if installed on reinforcement) wood screws. To install the frame on the foundation, holes should be made in the right place for protruding reinforcement or an anchor.

In order to ensure sealing, 1-2 layers of roofing material must be placed on the pillars so that its edges protrude by 10 cm. They must be bent down so that the water drains and does not accumulate under the wooden beam. Before placing the frame on the foundation, the wood should be coated with an antiseptic - apply at least 2 layers of drying oil. The frame is then installed and secured to the foundation. Along the length of the frame, you need to install three half-timber logs made of 100x100 mm timber, in increments of 135 cm.

Stage 6: utility block frame

To build the frame, you will need wooden beams with a cross section of 100×100 mm and 100×150 mm. For the convenience of further roofing work, frame beams need to be installed at different heights. The front side of the frame will be 3 m high and the back side will be 2.4 m high. Thus, it will be easy for you to install rafters for a pitched roof.

The first step is to assemble identical end walls. Each of them will have an opening for a window. The racks are attached vertically to the frame using galvanized steel corners measuring 130×10 mm or 105×90 mm and self-tapping screws. The first thing you need to install is a corner post, the height of which is 3 m, and the cross-section is 150 × 100 mm, with the narrow side towards the end. To do this, it is necessary to make a hole Ø10 mm and 50 mm deep in the bottom in order to place the beam on the reinforcement that protrudes from the frame. The same holes need to be made in the remaining three corner bars. Having retreated 1 m from the corner, you need to fasten the other two bars, the cross-section of which is 100 × 100 mm, and the length is 2.4 m. The distance between them should be 0.6 m. The last one on the end wall will be the corner beam, which sits on the reinforcement. Its height is 2.4 m, and its cross-section is 150×100 mm. All racks are attached with corners. And in order for the structure to be strong and rigid, between 1 and 2, 3 and 4 racks you need to make struts, the cross-section of which is 100 × 100 mm. To do this, the ends of the struts need to be cut at an angle of 45° and attached to the frame and racks using a bolted connection. Be sure to put a washer in before tightening the nut. Between the 2nd and 3rd racks you need to insert window crossbars, the cross-section of which is 100x50 mm. The first crossbar is installed at a height of 1 m from the frame, the second – at 1 m from the first. The second end frame must be assembled in exactly the same way. As a result, you should get something like in the picture.

Now you can assemble the front frame. Set up the main racks 3 m high. There should be four of them, two of which are already in the corners. It remains to install two middle pillars. You need to retreat 1.8 m from the outer posts and fix them. To prevent them from wobbling, temporarily connect them with a board with nails or self-tapping screws. Since the utility room will be divided into two separate sections, you will need to make a window opening in the middle and doorways on the sides. The door frame will be 2 m high and 0.85 m wide. Therefore, take a rack 2.4 m high, with a cross-section of 100x100 mm and place it at a distance of 0.85 m from the outermost rack. Do the same on the other side. In order to strengthen the structure, place diagonal braces between the 2nd and 3rd posts. On the other side, do the same. Next you need to install window mullions. Again, take a beam 2.4 m high with a cross-section of 100x100 mm and fix it at a distance of 0.37 m from the third rack (which is 3 m high). Then step back 0.85 m from the installed stand and place a second one, exactly the same. All that remains is to insert the horizontal crossbars. Fix the first at a height of 0.8 m from the frame, the second - 1 m from the first. Now the front side is ready, it should look like the picture.

Now make the back façade. Since corner posts with a height of 2.4 m are already in place, it remains to install 2 intermediate ones, with the same height and section 150x100 mm. The step from the end post is 1.8 m. Then install two braces between posts 1 and 2 and posts 3 and 4.

All that remains is to make the top trim, for which you will need a 100x50 mm beam. It must be mounted at a height of 2 m from the grillage (frame). To do this, the pieces of timber need to be secured vertically between all the posts around the perimeter. They must be connected end-to-end, secured with a reinforced steel angle and self-tapping screws. As a result, you should end up with a wooden frame like the one in the picture on the right.

Stage 7: fastening the rafters

It is more convenient and easier to assemble the rafters on the ground. It turns out that you will mount them on the frame posts in finished form. In order for the roof to have a canopy that will protrude around the perimeter, take rafters 5 m long with a section of 100x50 mm. They will be connected to each other by a sheathing of 30 mm edged boards. The rafters are placed in increments of 0.85 m. The sheathing does not have to be fastened tightly to each other. It all depends on the roofing material. If its mass is small, the distance may be greater, but if it is large, the boards are laid more densely.

To install the roof, you need to cut grooves at an angle of 10° in the racks on which it will rest. Why 10°? Because the height difference between the front and rear pillars creates exactly this angle. Before installing the roof, you will have to cover its overhangs and eaves with 30 mm edged boards. After this, make the floor using a floorboard. You can use both nails and screws. Make holes in the racks for self-tapping screws. To raise the finished roof upward, you can use logs that must be placed at the back of the building. The structure is lifted up along them, the rafters are installed in the grooves on the racks and everything is secured with self-tapping screws.

Stage 8: cladding and interior work

Now that the frame is completely ready, all that remains is to complete the outer cladding. A lining is suitable for this purpose. Then you need to lay the roofing you choose, install windows and install doors. To separate two sections inside the utility unit, make a frame-panel partition using a half-wood connection. The ceiling of the building is covered with fiberboard or plywood (the materials must be secured with self-tapping screws). If desired, you can sheathe the base using asbestos-cement sheet. And if this is done from the inside and outside, filling the space with expanded clay, then it can be insulated with mineral wool or polystyrene foam. Then the building will be much warmer, which will allow it to be used not only as a warehouse.

Video

Watch a video on how to build a garden shed yourself:

This video shows the construction of a wooden outbuilding:

Photo

Blueprints

The first building that appears on a new summer cottage is, of course, a barn, large and roomy. At first, until the bare territory of the dacha is “overgrown” with full-fledged outbuildings, a house, a summer kitchen and a garage, a simple shed with a pitched roof will long remain the only shelter for equipment, building materials and dacha property.

Which type of shed to choose for your summer cottage?

Depending on the plans for the future development of the suburban area, the availability of free time and money, the problem of utility room on a suburban area can be solved in several ways:

Hire a team and build a permanent shed from brick or foam block, with a pitched roof and a basement;
Pour a concrete foundation for the future building with your own hands, buy a five-ton railway container and install it on your summer cottage instead of a barn;
Build an ordinary barn with a pitched roof, 3x6 in size, from timber and boards, as in the photo.

Of course, experienced summer residents with experience will without hesitation cast their votes in favor of the last option; this is the most balanced and thoughtful decision.

Advice! To immediately build a shed from foam blocks on a “clean” site is not correct from a planning point of view; often outbuildings of this type have to be demolished or moved in favor of a summer house or garage.

In addition, the construction of stone, prefabricated, panel sheds, as well as the purchase of a container, will require an order of magnitude greater investment and time than is necessary for a wooden building with a pitched roof and a simple foundation. The main thing is that, at considerable expense, there are no tangible advantages over a lean-to wooden shed measuring 3x6.

Optimal design of a 3x6 wooden shed

The most difficult element of a homemade shed is its roof. Choose a pitched roof for your shed, you can’t go wrong. Even experienced craftsmen prefer to install pitched roofs on barns; they are not as beautiful, but easier to build and more reliable in operation. Moreover, you can make a shed roof with your own hands step by step even with minimal construction experience.

The only mandatory condition is the correct orientation of the pitched roof and the entire shed building relative to the wind rose in order to reduce the risk of rainwater flowing under the upper overhang and gables of the roof:

The design of the barn, dimensions 3x6 m, with a pitched roof is shown in the drawing;
The construction is carried out on a simple columnar foundation of 12 supports. A standard cinder block is used as the material for the pillars, but it is better to cast the supports from concrete in the formwork;
The basis of a lean-to barn is a frame made of boards and timber, the dimensions of the structure are 3x6 meters, with a ceiling height of 2 m and the highest point of the rafters of 2.7 m;
The shed roof is made according to the classical scheme, on hanging rafters with stuffed sheathing boards and a flat roof. As a roofing covering, you can use corrugated sheeting, ondulin, or make a two-layer version from rolled material, for example, roofing felt.

The construction will be very simple and easy; if you assemble the foundation correctly, the wooden frame box with a pitched roof can easily withstand winds of 18-25 m/s. If there are no strong winds in the area in which the shed is planned to be installed, then when building walls you can limit yourself to vertical drains from boards and timber, as in the drawing. For open areas, it is recommended to strengthen the vertical load-bearing supports with side struts, as in the photo.

The same applies to the design of a pitched roof. For a quiet area, you can build a pitched roof without using ceiling beams, but in this case, the upper frame of the walls and the mauerlat will need to be supported with additional vertical supports made of timber. For windy areas, a pitched roof must be reinforced with floor beams and supports in the middle of the rafters.

We build a barn with a pitched roof with our own hands

For the frame, material with a cross section of 50x150mm - 14 pcs., 25x100 - 23 pcs., 50x100 - 19 pcs.;
For the floor, boards measuring 25x100 mm - 27 pcs.;
For the sheathing and roof supports, 43 boards with a section of 25x100 mm are required.

All joints and connections are made with black carpentry screws 50 mm, 70 mm and 110 mm. To reduce the cost of construction, you can use ordinary nails and construction angles, but such savings are not always justified.

Making a foundation for a 3x6 shed

After choosing a site for building a shed, you will need to plan and remove soil on an area of at least 3x6 m in size. It makes no sense to make a larger building area. To prevent vegetation from pestering you, the cleared space can be covered with salt and sand.

After marking the location of the supports, at the installation points of the pillars we dig 12 holes, 15 cm deep and the size of a standard cinder block. At the bottom of the mini-pits we pour a 5 cm layer of a mixture of crushed stone and sand, after which we lay out columnar supports from cinder blocks using masonry mortar with the addition of PVA.

Before laying out, you will need to pull horizontal cords, along which you can control the height of each support, so that the entire supporting surface of the pillars is in the same horizontal plane.

After a day, you can install the strapping beam. All corner joints and T-shaped mortises are made with the ends “half-timbered”, each connection is reinforced with self-tapping screws screwed into the beam at different angles.

Assembling the frame and pitched roof

At the next stage, you will need to install load-bearing vertical posts; they are highlighted in orange in the drawing. Next, we sew up the floor and lay the rafters of the pitched roof.

We make the central load-bearing racks from 50x100 boards, for the rear wall you will need to cut three 220 mm racks, for the front wall - four 250 mm racks. We first fix each support on the lower frame with one self-tapping screw, then set the exact horizontal position according to the building level and additionally fasten it with small half-meter struts, as in the photo.

After all the racks are installed, we strengthen them with additional temporary struts and tie the upper tier of the frame under the future pitched roof. To give the entire structure of the barn additional rigidity, before assembling the elements of the pitched roof, it is necessary to cover the floor with a tongue-and-groove board.

Next, all installed elements, floor boards, rafters, sheathing material, side posts, lower and upper trim must be treated with an antiseptic and preservative. During the time it takes to assemble the rafters and roof of the pitched roof, the procedure must be repeated twice.

For the upper overhang of a pitched roof, installation of rafters and sheathing, you will need to secure an additional horizontal beam of the mauerlat, as in the diagram.

The cutting of the seat on the rafter beam is carried out according to the markings or according to a prepared template. After installing and leveling the position of each beam, it is recommended to fill the space between the beams with short boards; they will fix the rafter from horizontal displacement and at the same time strengthen the base of the pitched roof.

Roofing and finishing works

At the final stage, we sew up the rafters of the pitched roof with a sheathing board. If bituminous materials are used for the roof of the barn - flexible tiles and roofing felt, additional OSB sheets will need to be laid on the boards or the sheathing will need to be hammered solid with wooden clapboard.

The easiest way to cover a pitched roof is with corrugated sheeting. The metal surface will withstand any disasters that may occur in a summer cottage, and laying and fastening roofing material is much easier and faster than euro-slate or roofing felt. A polyethylene film is laid as waterproofing, the edges of which will be released from under the awnings and nailed to the top edge of the wooden walls of the barn.

Laying the roof on a pitched roof begins with the bottom left sheet, as in the diagram. Each element is joined to the previous one in a row in an overlap of two waves, an overlap of 15-20 cm is made on the bottom sheet. The overlap areas, the lower and upper edges must be pierced with roofing nails with a silicone washer.

Wind strips are nailed to the sides of the roofing pie, protecting the pitched roof from water flow and gusts of wind. We nail a similar strip for installing a drainage gutter under the lower overhang. We protect the upper overhang of a pitched roof with a screen made of two wooden planks.

The assembled frame of a shed, as a rule, is not insulated for the winter, so lining, ordinary edged boards or OSB sheet panels can be used as a material for lining the walls. To install the cladding, you will need to install additional vertical slats and struts on the walls. The joints and cracks between the OSB boards and the edged boards must be blown out with polyurethane foam, excess polyurethane foam must be cut off and painted over with weather-resistant paint.

Conclusion

The selected version of a shed with a pitched roof, measuring 3x6 m, can last up to 15 years without repair, provided that protective paint and varnish materials are chosen correctly. This design has one undeniable advantage - a shed made of timber with a pitched roof can be relatively easily disassembled and moved to a new location after a summer house or a new shed made of foam blocks is built.