Projects of frame baths. Do-it-yourself frame bath: ready-made drawings, step-by-step guidance and recommendations for finishing Frame bath 3x4 calculation of materials

It is much easier and faster to build a frame bathhouse than a brick or log house. Large-scale drawings, expensive materials and work, an impressive foundation - all this is missing. The main thing is the correct thermal and waterproofing, as well as a finished project that you can focus on.

For such a construction, a strip or columnar foundation is enough. The structure practically does not shrink due to its lightness, therefore, for the base of a small frame bath, it is necessary to purchase only a well-dried timber with dimensions of 20x20 cm for racks and a board. Drawings of the most simple and low-cost baths can be seen below.

The advantages of frame baths also include the absence of deformation, the ability to make engineering communications hidden, a variety of finishing materials. A building with a square of 12 m 2 also perfectly retains heat, like a log house.

In order for your bath to serve for a long time and does not require repair, you need to pay attention to the following points:

the frame should be located on a flat surface;
you should not choose the cheapest thermal insulation;
wood should be of high quality, not thin and carefully treated with antiseptics;
if the frame raises doubts about the shakiness, it must be reinforced with struts.

Frame baths are not afraid of shrinkage, since the material is elastic enough and is not afraid of shrinkage. The upper cuts of the plinth lie on the supporting, well-waterproofed beams. Better if they are oak, larch or hornbeam. To tie the wooden belt and the foundation, I use an anchor made of reinforcement (1.4-1.6 cm) with hooks buried in concrete up to 20 cm. On the other hand, there should be threads for the nut.

Corner joints, as a rule, are made "under the paw" and secured with anchors. Further - the extreme racks (10x15 cm) are set vertically and fixed with jibs. The thickness of the racks must correspond to the thickness of the insulation.

For buildings of 3x4 m, it is permissible to install struts on corner posts.

If the bath is two-story, it is better to put struts in each bay. The pitch of the frame posts is 0.6-0.8 m. They are attached to the support bar using steel brackets. The bars must have a cross section of at least 5x15 cm.

Features of the construction of a frame bath

A frame bath will last long enough when using high-quality and reliable thermal and waterproofing. Outside, the building can be protected from external influences with siding or a blockhouse, which will make the bathhouse look like a log house and protect it from rot or mold.

In fact, you can easily equip the mini-bath yourself. No special skills are required. The main thing is to imagine how it should look like (with or without a terrace), think over ergonomic heating and drainage, thermal insulation and familiarize yourself with typical options. Photos of projects of 3x4 frame baths with your own hands can be seen below.

A finished project of a small bath building can be ordered from a number of companies, however, so as not to be disappointed in the end and, if desired, you can do everything yourself. To begin with, you need to lay the foundation, which means to buy asbestos-cement pipes up to 40 m long and at least 10 cm in diameter.It is also necessary to drill a well - diameter - 20 cm, depth - 1.5 m. And, prepare a solution from water, fine gravel , cement and sand.

An important stage in the construction of a bath with your own hands is the strapping, for which you need 5x10 cm boards, treated with antiseptic solutions. The walls are marked and the material is laid along the outer contour. The board lays down with the outer edges and is fastened with nails. The plinth is connected with supports.

Strapping (top, bottom) - are made of boards, roofing material flooring is cut off from the bottom surface. I control all work carried out by level. In case of deviation, additional laying of roofing is carried out. So that the structure is strong, the strapping and lags are fixed using pre-mounted metal plates. They also need to be treated with an antiseptic.

Erection of walls requires measuring the footage between the axes. If there is no joining with the walls, 0.6 m is enough, if any, a gap of 0.4 m is required.

The spacing from pillar to pillar will depend on the dimensions of the window openings and doors. Frames, after fixing, must be checked for exact match with rectangular parameters. Rafter structures are best assembled in an open area of land. The roof is provided with a ventilation system. To give the structure rigidity, the walls are covered with plaster shingles.

The popularity of frame technology is explained by lower construction costs and a high speed of construction. Both household structures and residential buildings are built along it. Frame baths are especially in demand today. You can easily build them on your own in your suburban area. A 5x5 frame bath is one of the popular construction options that you can build with your own hands.

Where to start building a bath

Before starting the construction of a frame bath, it is worth planning the placement of the building. Pay attention to the following features:

It is important to determine where the bathhouse will be located - separately or near the selected building on the site.
Choose a place for the device of a bath, taking into account the location of engineering networks, and also mark the ways of laying communications.
Find out the features of the soil on the site in order to choose a foundation.
Develop a new or choose an existing bath project, taking into account your own requirements.

Advice! The more detailed the bath project is, the easier its implementation will be.

Many organizations offer ready-made projects. You can also order an individual project from them. The minimum size is 3x4 m. The optimal aspect ratio of the bath is 5x5 m.

Own bath project

In order not to wastefully work on creating drawings, you can select an already created project as a basis. In this case, the layout of the frame structure must correspond to the building area. Then it will remain to make some amendments.

For a future frame construction project, it is important to consider:

layout - it is important for the rational distribution of the area;
costs for the construction and operation of a frame bath;
terms of work;
features of the foundation.

All interiors are arranged according to the number of pieces of furniture and their size. For example, when creating a drawing of a frame structure, the length of the benches is taken into account. To make it comfortable in the rest room after taking water procedures, a table, sofa and armchairs are installed in it.

It is important to correctly determine the location of the dressing room in the frame structure. It is designed in such a way that cold air does not enter the bath when the doors are opened. In the washing compartment of the frame structure, the location of the water tank should be provided. Brooms are dried in a warm attic. A comfortable stay is possible when creating a veranda or terrace.

The advantages of frame structures

The construction of a frame bath requires compliance with certain rules. Such a structure consists of a supporting structure, which is sheathed with OSB panels. Insulation and vapor barrier are placed between the wall plates.

Advice! You can save on the construction of a frame structure by choosing straw or sawdust for insulation.

A frame bath made of such materials is lightweight and therefore does not require an impressive base. It is easy to build it yourself.

The obvious advantages of frame construction are:

small costs for the foundation;
all work can be done independently without using heavy equipment;
short construction time.

Wireframe technology also has its drawbacks, which deserve mention. The main disadvantage of such baths is their increased fire hazard. For this reason, it is better to engage in careful processing of all structural elements with refractory compounds. For wiring in the frame structure, choose non-combustible enclosures.

Important! Particular attention in the frame bath is given to the moisture insulation of the walls. Mineral heat insulators perfectly absorb moisture, as a result of which their positive properties are lost.

Ready saunas

It is not always possible to start building a bath with your own hands. In the same situation, they buy a ready-made structure. The kit includes the following items:

mounting bar - it is used to create a frame;
set of fasteners;
material for flooring;
roofs;
wall panels;
documentation package.

The set of documents contains project drawings and a description of the assembly instructions.

Attention! The walls in the already manufactured baths are made of SIP panels, which facilitates the assembly process.

Materials (edit)

Materials are prepared in advance so that there is no need to buy them. For any frame bath you need:

Important! It is better not to use polyurethane foam for insulation. At high temperatures, it begins to melt. Moreover, this material is flammable.

You will also need to prepare nails and screws of various lengths. Given the high humidity inside the bath, you should use galvanized fasteners.

Bath building algorithm

A columnar base is best suited for a frame bath. It can be built using asbestos-cement pipes. You will need elements with a diameter of 20 cm and a length of 2 m. They should be buried in the wells by 1.5 m and filled with concrete and crushed stone mortar. The number of posts varies depending on the size of the structure. For a 3x4 m frame bath, 12 pieces are required. When building a bathhouse 5x5 m, you need to prepare 18 pillars.

After installing the bath supports, a strapping from a bar is attached to them. The elements are fastened with nails. Roofing material must be placed under the strapping bars - to ensure waterproofing.

Important! For the most tight fit of the strapping to the bath foundation, it is attached to the supports on metal corners.

Logs of boards are laid on the strapping - they will be the basis of the bath floor. The frame is treated with an antiseptic and a refractory agent. The installation of the walls of the bath is carried out in the following order:

Supports are installed in the corners, between which intermediate posts are placed.
Sheathing sheets of the bath walls are fixed to the racks with self-tapping screws.
After finishing the wall sewing, the openings of doors and windows are formed.

Important! During the sheathing of the walls of the bath, the OSB sheets should be checked for the correctness of their location. To do this, use a level.

The rafter system for the frame bath is assembled on the ground and then lifted onto the roof. Only then the lathing is fixed and the roofing is laid. After installing the main frame, doors and windows are mounted. For self-construction of a frame bath you will need:

three days for the foundation;
three days for the installation of piping with walls;
two days for the rafter system;
two days for laying the roof, installing windows and doors, as well as finishing.

Knowing these features helps to design and build a durable and practical sauna for the whole family.

Internal and external decoration of the bath

For the exterior decoration of frame baths, imitation of timber or siding panels are used. Interior decoration requires special attention. First, you should choose the lining. For the rest room and vestibule, you can choose pine. It does not need to be looked after, and it looks quite impressive.

The steam room is trimmed with linden or larch. These breeds are not afraid of high temperatures and are able to retain color. Sometimes other woods are also chosen:

abashi - a tree from tropical forests with low thermal conductivity;
cedar - when heated, it begins to release essential compounds that are useful for the body;
aspen - this tree is resistant to decay and the development of mold.

Important! The lining is attached to the vapor barrier in such a way that a gap remains between the wood and the foil material.

Simple project of a frame bath 5x5

When creating your own bath, you should pay attention to existing projects. A spacious 5x5 frame-type building has several types of premises:

vestibule - hangers for clothes, a refrigerator are placed here;
a rest room in this room is to install a table and a sofa;
washing - it should warm up well;
steam room.

The steam room in the bath should be finished with aspen clapboard. In this room, a corner shelf is installed, having dimensions of 90x270x270 cm.In the steam room, an additional narrow shelf is also installed. The stove is covered with a 120x120 cm brick.In the steam room, a small window is made, having a width of 30 cm.

It is convenient to place a 90x90 cm shower stall in the washing section. A 90x200 cm lounger and a hot water tank are also equipped here. The relaxation room in the bathhouse is made spacious - 190x320 cm. A table with a sofa is installed in this room. The window in the recreation room is made large so that a lot of light comes into it.

A 5x5 frame bath is installed on a columnar foundation. This is due to its low weight and low ground load.

When building a frame-type bath, you should follow the advice of experienced builders. This will help build a durable building. It is important to follow these guidelines:

It is necessary to very carefully fix the vapor barrier layer at the junction of the walls and the floor of the bath. This affects the durability of the building.
Additionally, you can create reliable thermal insulation of the frame bath from the street side. To do this, additional layers of hydro and thermal insulation are attached under the bath casing.
From the inside, the bath casing should not be painted or opened with varnish compounds. Such compounds are capable of releasing toxic substances.

The ceiling and flooring in the bath is insulated with special diligence. It is necessary to use the same materials that were used to insulate the walls. A frame bath is a profitable and far-sighted solution. Its construction will not take long. If you develop a bath project in detail and prepare all the necessary materials, you will be able to build a bath quickly and efficiently. Such an object will become a source of pride for the owners of the site.

conclusions

It is quite simple to build a 5x5 frame bath on your site. A light columnar foundation is chosen as the base. The walls are made of beams and OSB panels. It is important to properly waterproof the grillage and roof elements. This will extend the life of the building. Based on ready-made projects, you can create your own drawing of a frame bath that meets the requirements of safety and economy.

There are many arguments in favor of building a bath yourself, and the most important is cost savings. The average cost of a finished project when contacting specialized firms is 90,000-100,000 rubles, while doing work with your own hands is 3-4 times cheaper. Particular attention is paid to the base of the bath, as it is designed for long-term use. Even when ordering an option from a wooden blockhouse, it is more expedient to make the foundation yourself, rather than contacting specialists. The recommended size is 3x4 m, this is enough to accommodate the steam room, washing and relaxation areas, with the optimal consumption of building materials and the occupied useful area of the site.

For this building, tape, pile, screw, columnar or slab varieties are suitable. When deciding which one is better to lay, take into account: soil parameters, expected loads and wall materials. Each option has its own advantages:

1. Belt - the main one, often used in individual construction. A 3x4 m bath is considered uncomplicated and lightweight, block masonry or pouring a monolith from concrete are equally acceptable.

2. Columnar is laid on dense soils, provided that the weight of the walls is low. The pillars are poured out of concrete, or laid out of bricks or blocks in the corners of the bath and at the junction of the walls. This is an economically viable technology, but it is not recommended for use in areas with loose soils and with significant volumes of runoff and discharge.

3. The slab base is valued for its compatibility with any type of soil and withstanding weight loads. But for a small bath within 3x4 m, there is no need to place a solid monolith under it, an exception is made only for two-story buildings (for which, too, given the small area, it is enough to fill in the strip base).

5. Pile-grillage base implies additional strapping with a channel or beam. In this case, when laying, the piles should be screwed into the ground to a certain depth and filled with concrete.

The first two varieties are used most often, the optimal foundation for a small 3x4 m bath is considered to be a ribbon one. In addition to its versatility, it is valued for its simplicity: with the correct organization of the workflow, it can be filled in 1 day.

Step-by-step instructions for the construction of a strip base

First of all, they are determined with the material of the walls and the location of the building. The communication scheme and the organization of the drain are thought out in advance, as well as openings for windows and doors, drafts are unacceptable. It is recommended to make a foundation near the house and the pool (if the latter is available), a septic tank or cesspool is placed at a distance of 2–5 m. The work itself is carried out according to the following scheme:

Digging a trench.
Placement of the formwork.
Preparation of the reinforcing frame, laying the drain and other communications.
Pouring with concrete.
Removal of formwork, waterproofing and insulation of the foundation with a blind area, backfilling.

1. Marking and laying of the base.

The first three stages are preparatory: the site is cleared of plants, dirt and debris. The territory is marked along the perimeter of the future bath with the help of pegs and a rope, space is freed up for placing the excavated soil, taking into account the approximate depth of the trench of 2.5 m.A pillow of sand (15 cm) and crushed stone (10 cm) is poured onto the bottom and compacted. The depth of a shallow strip foundation for a bath (assembled from blocks) is also smaller, but the drainage backfill should not be missed in any case. Formwork 3x4 m in size can be made from ordinary boards, knocking them along the perimeter of the building.

2. Reinforcement and laying of communications.

Used metal rods, 10-14 mm thick, best of all corrugated. The formwork is protected from the flow of liquid solution; glassine is well suited for this purpose. To calculate the number of tiers of reinforcement, it is recommended to measure the upper fill level; bricks or blocks are placed at the bottom to prevent metal from contacting the ground. The knitting of the reinforcement starts from the corners, the frame is connected with wire. The fewer joints, the better, the optimal cell size is 20 × 30 cm, as if inside the foundation (that is, the rods should not come out, otherwise they will corrode).

The frame for a small bath is most conveniently assembled outside. For mating corners, proven schemes are used: with anchoring with L-shaped elements, U- and L-shaped clamps, with overlapping transverse reinforcement. At this stage, all kinds of communications are laid, according to a previously prepared drawing. A special crochet hook works well for faster tying. It is allowed to fill the foundation with concrete only after collecting the entire reinforcing frame.

3. Concreting.

A solution is prepared from standard components: cement, sand, gravel and water. When building a foundation for a bath with your own hands, the quality of the mixture is of great importance; it is better to use a concrete mixer. Ingredients are purchased from trusted manufacturers: cement from M400, river sand and hard rock crushed stone, with a particle size of 20-30 mm. The recommended proportions are 1: 3: 3 or 1: 2: 4, it is advisable to carry out a preliminary calculation of the consumption of the mixture, taking into account the depth of the foundation, with dimensions of 3x4 m. The ready-made mortar remains in the formwork until it hardens, the concrete is leveled from above with a trowel.

Protection against moisture and heat loss

Before backfilling, the foundation is waterproofed and insulated. This stage is very important, you cannot save on the quality of building materials. As a coating waterproofing, bituminous mastics have proven themselves well, for insulation - polystyrene or expanded polystyrene.

It is allowed to use roll wrapping materials. The main thing is to make sure that the insulation and the mastic are compatible, the latter must be water-based (which is prescribed in the instructions). On strongly pounding areas, the blind area is insulated, along the perimeter of the bath. A small layer of sand is poured around the foundation, and only then is the soil.

Expert advice

To achieve the maximum effect, it is important to observe the following nuances of the technology:

It is best to fill the strip foundation for the construction of a bath in one go.
The next stage is started after the complete completion of the previous one: tying the frame, hardening the solution (the concrete is checked for moisture), drying the waterproofing layer.
To compensate for temperature differences during freezing of the soil and to prevent mechanical shifts, expansion joints are laid along the entire height of the foundation. For a bath, the recommended interval is 60 cm, in areas with moving ground - 15-30 cm. The seams, 10 cm wide, are subsequently filled with heat or waterproofing materials.
In areas with a high level of groundwater, drainage pipes are laid along the perimeter of the bath, at the depth of the foundation cushion.

Common mistakes

Technology violations include:

Absence or improper organization of water drainage in the bath.
Skipping the stage of hydro and thermal insulation.
Use of poor quality concrete.

There is a misconception that there is no need for sewerage for rarely visited baths without a toilet. That is, the building is located above the cesspool or at a close distance from it, the drains are removed to the gravel backfill. But at the same time, the risk of rising groundwater is ignored and in winter, in addition to freezing the soil and the inevitable deformation of the base, the floors cool down in the room. A properly organized foundation for a bath with a drain has a pipe leading to a septic tank or sewer, with a length of at least 2 m from the walls.

The construction of a bath is necessary at any summer cottage and at a country house. But traditional options, which use brick or timber, have a number of disadvantages. But the frame structures deprived of them need to be erected using a special technology.

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Peculiarities

It is very difficult to build buildings, even such minor ones as a bathhouse, with your own hands from bricks or logs. You will need to spend a lot of money on materials, prepare flawless drawings. And without the help of someone, it will not be possible to do such a job at all. Therefore, frame projects deserve increased attention. Moreover, the consumption of wood in comparison with conventional timber structures is reduced by exactly half.

The buildings are relatively light, even if they are made in dimensions of 6 by 4 or 6x6 m; if the size of the structure is 3x4, 4x4 m, this circumstance manifests itself even more. Therefore, there is no need to prepare solid foundations. It is possible to finish external and internal walls at the same time, and the overall installation speed increases noticeably. The smallest area of the steam room is 250x250 cm. It is recommended to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100 and a length of 4000 mm for the foundation, which are filled with concrete.

All wooden elements are thoroughly dried before installation. The rafters are assembled on the ground, after which they are alternately raised and placed over the frame racks. The roof is made only in a ventilated version.

It is advisable not to raise the ceiling in the steam room above 210 cm. Only after finishing the frame, the bath is divided into separate rooms.

Advantages and disadvantages

The indisputable advantages of the construction of frame baths are:

Ease of construction;
cheap construction (low material charges);
simplification of foundation work in comparison with other options;
weak thermal conductivity;
the ability to make communication channels inside the walls and not spoil the appearance;

exclusion of shrinkage;
no need for complex construction equipment;
environmental safety (a rarity for dacha budget buildings);
the ability to perform all work without the involvement of specialists;
exclusion of wet works - it is possible to build in winter and even where there is no sustainable water supply;
a wide variety of finishes.

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But after carefully studying the reviews of the owners and developers, you can immediately find certain shortcomings. Each of them can be eliminated by timely measures, only because you need to properly understand the possible problems. Frame baths in their pure form quickly cool down, and therefore, after a short time, an ugly fungus appears inside. To cope with this difficulty, you need to use only the highest quality insulation.

Styrofoam or simple mineral wool does not serve effectively enough, and the first option also ignites easily.

It is possible to extend the service life of a panel bath if the entire used timber and boards are impregnated with antiseptics of a special sample. After 18-24 months, the frame shrinkage is sometimes 80-100 mm. As a result, external and internal finishes are deformed. You can reduce this risk if you take chamber-dried sawn timber.

Subtleties of design

The simplicity of construction and its availability for non-professionals does not mean that you can safely start work without preparation. Even the experience of such work does not give grounds for a complacent attitude. A well-thought-out project and drawings of the future structure will help to avoid serious mistakes.

On a small area (3x4 or 4x4 m), it is required to maximize the intensity of space use. If possible, such small baths should be avoided altogether if there is sufficient territory for development.

The simplest scheme is when the steam room, shower, boiler room and wardrobe compartment are combined. But such a step is acceptable only for mini structures or transportable baths, because it is impossible to distribute the temperature as expected. Therefore, they try to create, even with the smallest dimensions, albeit very small, but self-contained rooms. A 3x4 m bathhouse may well be heated with a small boiler or a wood-fired stove. Individual designers even find the opportunity to complement it with a veranda or terrace.

The smallest projects have a number of valuable properties:

insignificant consumption of building materials;
almost complete elimination of waste;
high speed of work;
durability and reliability (since it is not required to save on the quality of components on a small area).

It should be remembered that even a small one-story extension to a house must be registered with the cadastral registration authorities.

On a larger plot, it is quite possible to build a 6x6 bath: it will not only allow you to wash off the dirt from yourself, but also invite the whole family and even a group of friends. Typical projects with such sides imply a significant area of the rest room - it can reach 20 m2. Most often, it is there that the stairs connecting the first floor with the attic are also located.

A two-story bathhouse is superior to a one-story bathhouse already because it allows you to organize additional space for life and leisure. Often there are rooms for receiving guests, bedrooms, billiard tables or other sports equipment.

Thanks to frame technology, the overwhelming part of the costs relates to the foundation of the building, and if it already exists, the subsequent stages of work will be much more affordable.

In the construction of two floors, the first step is to create a foundation from support pillars, and the base must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. Experts recommend building the truss system of the bath from boards with a section of 10x5 cm, and a board with a thickness of 2.2 cm is usually used for the crate.

The frame-panel structure is assembled according to the principle of a toy constructor. It is not difficult to find combinations of elements suitable for the construction of a washing room with a pool, then they are only placed on a prepared frame. The kit usually comes with detailed technological instructions to help avoid mistakes - if only they are strictly followed. In the case of mobile baths, everything is even simpler - they are assembled not at construction sites, but at industrial enterprises. All that remains for customers is only to supplement the ready-made blocks with the necessary details.

Most projects involve the use of gable roofs, the attic space under them is not organized or it is very small. Inside, however, they often put bath equipment. When choosing the type of foundation, they are guided by the category of soil and its condition. The mass of the building, even if we take into account the presence of a second floor in a number of variants, is relatively small. The design indicators of insulation depend on whether the bath will be used all year round or whether it is intended only for the warm season.

Calculation of the amount of materials

It is not so difficult to calculate the need for metal frame nodes: any seller can do this, having learned the required dimensions and design. In typical projects, the exact metal consumption is normalized, and if they are compiled according to an individual order, then all the calculations are undertaken by the designers. But all the same, they need to be controlled, because even on iron material, some builders can make "mistakes" in their favor. Before calculating the need for wood, you need to choose whether a timber or a log will be used in this case. Timber-based structures are preferable because:

shrinkage is noticeably reduced;
there are no strict restrictions on size and geometry;
work is greatly simplified.

The strongest timber, according to experts, is made from conifers, moreover, they are less susceptible to the destructive effect of insects and microorganisms gnawing on a tree. The standard dimensions of the timber taken into account in the calculations are from 10x10 to 20x20 cm. The volume is calculated by multiplying the length by the height and thickness of a single element.

Some masters claim that you need to add 10-30% to the result. But this step is frankly stupid, because, on the contrary, you will have to spend less timber - it is not mounted on the openings of windows and doors.

Inexperienced customers and even builders replace the length of the perimeter with an area, and then they are forced to stop work, buy missing materials and spend money on their transportation. In order not to be mistaken, you should also carefully check the labeling and accompanying documents. In some cases, on the price tags and in the speeches of sellers, slightly larger dimensions of the bar are indicated than it actually is.

To further save money, you can change the timber to boards, and the cladding can be made of plastic lining or profiled sheets. When working, only boards of the highest category are acceptable.

Construction stages

Having calculated the need for materials and choosing the size of the frame bath, you need to deal with the sequence of construction work. There are no fundamental differences from the construction of other baths or city houses in the order of stages, but each of them reveals its own specificity.

Foundation

So, when erecting a base, it is best to use columnar structures. They are assembled from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of approximately 10 cm, reinforced from the inside with concrete. Then they mark out the outer contours and, with the help of a drill, drill openings that go 2 m deep.

For your information: the depth of penetration in some cases can be more or less. This decision is made based on the type of soil and the depth of groundwater. Each pipe is introduced into the opening and covered from above with coarse sand, moreover, it is thoroughly rammed. When pouring, concrete is used, which is prepared from:

1 part of M200 cement;
4 pieces of sand;
7.5 parts of fine gravel;
3 parts of pure water.

According to the step-by-step instructions, the filling of the pipes should be smooth, a strong steel plate is placed on each of them when ready. The mounted pipes must dry, and only then the turn comes to the installation of the lower piping. The box is treated with disinfectants and covered with a waterproofing layer. Logs are placed on top of the strapping, from which a rough floor is formed. In the interval separating the structure from the lag and the strapping, roofing material is laid, sometimes this place is abundantly coated with mastic.

The foundation device under a frame bath, which has two or three floors, must take into account the total load and snow pressure. Wooden bases are allowed only for miniature baths, the total area of which is 12 sq. m or less. Increased attention will need to be paid to calculating the diameter of the timber and leveling the surfaces.

Be sure to put several bars at the same level, trimmed around the perimeter with stakes. Such systems work well on clayey soils, where they serve stably for many years.

When building baths on screw piles, there is no need to join the supporting structures using a bar or channel bars. Such supports help to build even on a hillside or on a heavily eroded river bank with a turbulent current. The introduction of piles into the ground is carried out either with the involvement of special equipment, or at the expense of the efforts of several builders at the same time. When working, it is absolutely impossible to deviate the support from the horizon line.

At every fourth turn, the position of the pile is carefully verified using a magnetic level. Structures that are tilted when twisting are prohibited from being removed outward by technology, their position is corrected using a rotary level. Any strong concrete and rebar can be used to eliminate gaps separating the piles from the surrounding soil. After finishing the installation, the piles are checked for evenness. If everything is in order, the heads are welded on top of them; the drain in the bath is always equipped not only in the washing room, but also in the steam room.

Many people try to put the bathhouse on a strip base. This solution is acceptable even on soil prone to movement and subsidence, which can easily swell. The tape is divided into Finnish and Canadian; both technology schools are simple, but require a careful and responsible approach. Monolithic foundations are erected directly at the construction site, and prefabricated foundations are only laid and connected. Most often, they are guided by a shallow deepening (up to 50 cm), such a tape is evenly spread under the load-bearing walls.

Choosing a suitable base option is often difficult without geological surveys. The simplest check can be done independently: the type of soil and its visual characteristics are recognized by digging a trench 150 cm deep. They carefully evaluate not only the height of the standing groundwater, but also the level to which the ground freezes.

For any type of foundation, the construction site is cleared of grasses and bushes, flowers and sod in advance. Even stumps, roots and any objects that could interfere with construction should not be left.

Sturdy cords made of colored fabrics help to simplify the marking. In accordance with the markings, you need to dig a recess for the foundation, which will be 50 cm deeper and 400 cm wider than the prepared landmark. The cushion of the building is made of sand, which is poured abundantly with water and rammed. Then the first layer is covered with rubble. Waterproofing is installed along the lateral planes of the trench. Roofing material is traditionally used, although more and more modern penetron is replacing it.

The formwork is created as follows: the upper edge of the waterproofing is used for laying boards, their thickness is 50 mm, and their width is maximum 1.5 m. The boards need to be laid without the slightest gaps, with an elevation of 30 cm above the ground. Then reinforcement is also carried out: a tied wire reinforcement, wound 50 mm below the top point of the formwork (later completely hidden by a layer of concrete). Concreting is carried out with a mixture of cement, sand and gravel, in terms of density, it is similar to dense sour cream. Additional hardening is achieved by plasticizers.

It is recommended to prepare the mortar yourself, as it is much faster than getting the mortar from the factory. In addition, this approach will help preserve the quality of the cold seam, avoid water seepage through it, which would spoil the base. And, importantly, the differences in cost are negligible. After completing the work, the foundation is covered with a liquid-impermeable material. Concrete will harden in 24 hours, but it will only gain final strength after a few weeks.

Formwork should be done using even and sturdy boards in order for it to look perfect. Nails are driven strictly from the inside to the outside. If you do the opposite, it will be much more difficult to remove the shields. When working on formwork structures, you need to immediately think about the conclusions for the sewerage, water supply and electrical cables. If they are not immediately provided, then you will need to hammer and break the quality of the monolith.

It is quite acceptable to put a strip foundation in the form of a monolithic belt under the bath from the frame if the fertile soil layer is removed and replaced with poured sand.

Both a monolithic solution and a shallow structure, and a non-deepened base must be protected from the force of frost heaving. To do this, use:

drainage means;
side faces;
insulation around the blind area;
removal of heaving soils with their replacement with sand or crushed stone.

Shallow belts should not be used on different slopes: there they will not withstand significant shear forces. When building on dusty sand or embankment, an expansion plate is placed underneath. A correctly executed monolith always has a greater height than width. Moreover, the difference is 2-4 times; such a step will make the basement part of the structure optimal; it will be possible to form both the overlap of the beams and the ground floors.

Walls and floor

They begin to work by placing special racks, which will be fixed by the upper harness. Other racks are added in between. They will make the bathhouse stronger and more stable. The box is covered with boards, they are attached to self-tapping screws. After sequentially collecting the parts, they form the structure finally.

In frame buildings, windows and doors are mounted immediately, without waiting for the complete completion of the work.

In most frame baths, floors are created from logs and boards, but it will not be possible to accurately determine the appropriate size of these elements without complex calculations. But this is not necessary - private developers may well do with ready-made averaged values. In most cases, boards with a thickness of 30-40 mm and finishing logs based on a bar with a section of 100x150 mm are acceptable. The thickness of the board, expressed in millimeters, should approximately correspond to the gap between the lags, expressed in centimeters.

If thermal insulation is used, the gaps between the logs of the finishing flooring are corrected taking into account the created insulation layer.

As for the basic materials, all long-serving wood species are suitable for creating a floor in a frame bath. But poplar and other soft wood are unacceptable. Before purchase and use, you should carefully check the dryness and integrity of the material, the absence of cracks, splits and other problems. Ideally, all lumber should be sourced from the same kiln-dried batch.

It is advisable to make the finishing flooring from an edged or grooved board, since it does not need to be additionally sanded, but the rough base can also be unedged.

An alternative to wooden structures is often a self-leveling floor. This solution has become more and more popular over the years, pushing aside also ceramic and stone surfaces. The key advantages of a self-leveling floor can be considered:

the integrity of the coating being created;
high mechanical strength and excellent wear resistance;
zero level of fire hazard;
absence of dust and harmful emissions during operation;
a significant variety of design options, including decoration with three-dimensional drawings;
maintenance is much easier than for wooden structures.

But there are also objective weaknesses: for example, a self-leveling floor finally hardens only after a few days, when you can walk on a wooden floor right away. There is a high risk of scratches and dirt, and the cost of such a coating is very high. Any bath floors are recommended to be made with a slope towards the drain, this will prevent water and soapy foam from spreading in all directions. The self-leveling floor can be done horizontally (without a slope) or the mixture can be poured onto a base that already has a slope. The first option requires carefully sealing the intersections of the floor with the walls, and the second is more difficult to perform, but it directs all the liquid in the right direction at once.

The self-leveling floor cannot be “poured” just like that: its substrate is prepared very carefully. On top of the tree, you need to lay powerful concrete screeds, and with reinforcement. The sooner the mixture is poured, the better - it rapidly loses fluidity, and if this happens before the end of the work, all costs will be in vain. Most often, the floors are poured together.

When working with walls, in most cases, the front cladding is made on the basis of lining or chipboards. Waterproofing is provided with parchment placed under the outer skin. Only then is the insulation used, which should be ideally environmentally friendly and fire safe. The total thickness of the cake and its individual layers is determined by the climatic parameters of the territory and the peculiarities of using the frame bath.

A structure used year-round should have not only thicker walls, but also a special vapor barrier. The best solution for it is plastic wrap.

Painting the wall cladding, even in dressing rooms, is undesirable, because vapors of even the safest paints and varnishes can be harmful to health. When thinking over the structure of the walls, special attention is paid to how the ventilation ducts and electrical wires will pass through them. Since flammable materials are used for outdoor decoration, and excess moisture is often present in the air, it is worth giving preference to closed, thoroughly insulated cable ducts.

If the rooms will be finished with boards, their thickness should be about 30 mm. At a lower value, strength suffers, at a higher value, the structure becomes heavy.

Roof

The basic parts used in the construction of the roof of the frame bath are gradually laid and put together directly on the site. The truss should stand on the prepared frame base. Placing the roof on a rough boarding helps to make it easier to create the roof. The model cake always includes ventilation systems, so the gap from the rafters to the counterbeam is filled with a vapor barrier. The lathing should be attached to the timber.

Then the time comes to make gables from oriented slabs or high-quality boards. In most cases, you should confine yourself to the simplest single-pitched roof, which is performed quickly and without unnecessary difficulty. But if you choose a completely original design, not every specialist will be able to complete the work competently and within the allotted time.

What is very important, with the same area, gable solutions turn out to be 50-100% more expensive, and this difference is not justified even by their specific capabilities. With the correct calculation, a cover with one slope will last for many years and all this time it will be extremely convenient to use.

Do-it-yourself flat roofs on baths are not recommended. The economy of such a choice is only apparent - the need for powerful artificial ventilation with natural weakness absorbs all the savings. According to qualified builders, a pitched roof should be located at a general slope of 20 to 30 degrees. If this condition is met, liquid and solid precipitates will spontaneously go down.

There are two ways to create a slope: deliberately making the walls uneven in height or by installing racks. With the second option, the material is spent less, but the heat will hold on worse.

Experienced roofers know for sure that as roof slopes decrease, smoother facing materials have to be used. But at an angle of less than 10 degrees, even the best solutions do not allow you to get rid of the resulting puddles and snow drifts. Mauerlat is formed from coniferous timber with a cross section of at least 15x15 cm. Outside it is covered with a layer of waterproofing (lubricated with mastic or wrapped in roofing material). The rafters are made exclusively of flat planks with a section of 5x15 cm, which are made of hard wood.

With such dimensions, an optimal margin of safety is achieved and it remains possible to fix insulation up to 15 cm thick, if necessary. For your information: the length of the rafters is calculated with redundancy for overhangs, which improve the protection of the walls from water. All ends of the rafter legs are equipped with cuts for Mauerlats, which are fastened with nails or metal strips. The lathing is attached to the rafter legs at right angles.

Under certain roofing materials that are prone to deformation, an unbreakable sheathing based on moisture-resistant plywood is necessarily created.

In other cases, lattices of slats are placed, their thickness varies from 2.5 to 3 cm. But in each specific case, of course, this thickness should be uniform throughout. It is advisable to overlap baths with pitched roofs with ondulin, corrugated board, metal or soft tiles. If there is a simple ceiling below, without an attic or attic, it is required to lay slab or roll insulation. Regardless of this, they use:

hydrophobic film;
fire retardant and antiseptic impregnations;
fasteners of a special design;
carefully selected and tested tools.

Single-pitched roofs should rest on rafters spaced at 0.5-0.8 m intervals. The roofing material should be attached to the base using special self-tapping screws, including synthetic rubber caps. These tops help block water seepage. If there are no specialized fasteners, you need to use simple self-tapping screws, supplementing them with external rubber gaskets. Then the gables are sewn up, the drain is equipped - this completes the external work on the frame bath.

Finishing

No matter how reliable and durable the created "box" is, it will not work to be limited to it. It is imperative to protect these structures from negative external influences and at the same time make them more attractive.

Exterior wall decoration helps developers and designers express their tastes and aesthetic priorities. Often they try to sheathe them with siding, clapboard. Block house and plaster are inferior to these materials in popularity.

Rough walls should be checked before applying any cladding. They should not even have minor cracks, the sheathing joints should fit snugly against each other. With the help of vinyl siding, you can create a variety of visual paintings: an imitation of a simple wood, and a "brick" wall, and something high-tech in spirit. Plastic panels show themselves no less well, and if you need to increase the natural appearance of the bath to the limit, you should choose a block house.

In the case of choosing a lining, it must be kept for several days in order for acclimatization to take place.

Decorating a frame bath from the inside is no less important than from the outside. It is recommended to give preference to environmentally friendly materials, their increased cost is fully justified. The choice of design in interior decoration is now unlimited, you can use any style, not necessarily traditional Russian. Dressing rooms are trimmed with both deciduous and coniferous wood. But it is advisable to choose the color as calm and balanced as possible, taking into account the purpose of the bath.

photos

Wash compartments are covered with clapboard soaked in advance with mixtures that block rotting. Some consumers use plastic panels and even polycarbonate sheets. There is no place for conifers in the steam room, with the exception of cedar. Among the deciduous varieties, linden is invariably in the first place, which does not burn when touched and does not fade after long use. In more budgetary projects, preference is given to aspen and alder.

You can decorate a brick sauna stove with tiles: this option is the simplest, cheapest, and at the same time allows you to provide an attractive appearance. Tiles should not be hung on the masonry; they should rest on the base of the stove. It is worth abandoning simple plastering, it does not give decent results even in dry rooms. Quite good results are sometimes brought by the use of decorative stone.

If the stove is not made of bricks, but is supplied to order, it is worth choosing the solution that corresponds to the chosen style.

photos

Ventilation

Even the strongest and most reliable materials will not last long if moisture stagnates inside. And the constant accumulation of musty air will not give anyone pleasure. All these problems are solved with the use of carefully thought out ventilation. In most cases, the choice is made between supply and exhaust and natural systems. Self-circulation is ensured by placing the air inlet at a height of 0.5 m from the floor, and the air outlet at about the same distance below the ceiling.

It is possible to equip the outlet at the bottom only when using forced ventilation or a large ventilation pipe. The inlet of cold air can be organized in the space behind the stove, and the outlet in the floor itself, if the basement is connected by ventilation with street air or other premises. For baths built into the house, it is always necessary to use forced ventilation.

How to insulate?

It is unreasonable to blame high-quality and intensive air exchange for the lack of heat in the bath. Almost always, the real cause of the problem is weak and low-quality insulation. In most cases, mineral wool slabs are used. Due to the large amount of air inside, they perfectly retain heat, and the high melting point allows you not to be afraid of fire. Often the frame wall is insulated with reed slabs, which are environmentally safe and do their job well.

The cheapness of foamed synthetic materials and their lightness, resistance to moisture make such protective coatings one of the best. But it is important to understand that not all materials in this series are equally perfect. In addition, any such insulation is allowed to be used only where strong heating is excluded.

Thermal protection must necessarily be covered from contact with water and water vapor. Wet heaters quickly deteriorate and lose their positive qualities.

The classic approach to the insulation of stoves and the surrounding space involves the use of asbestos for the protection of various materials. It can be applied in the form of slabs or cloths. But given the danger of asbestos fibers for humans, it is advisable to use other finishing methods:

basalt fiber;
isolone;
needle-punched mats.

Heat in a bath can escape not only through walls; most of its leaks occur through floors and ceilings. To create thermal protection inside them, expanded clay is sometimes used. In wall insulation, it is used less and less, because it is too heavy (500 kg per 1 m3) compared to generally available counterparts. In addition, expanded clay is significantly inferior in terms of heat retention to both foam plastic and mineral wool, so the thickness of the insulating layer grows. And even if he slowly but steadily absorbs water, it turns out to be very difficult to dry the material.

Warming of frame buildings with sawdust has a rather long history. They are absolutely safe in environmental and sanitary terms, but putting such thermal protection will not work quickly. Wood shavings are used not only for insulation, but also as bedding for animals, fertilizer, and in many other cases. Therefore, suppliers no longer give it away for free, but prefer to receive money for such a demanded product. In a large city, sawdust is also sold in supermarkets, but there the price level is even higher than at sawmills.

Only hardwood shavings are suitable for work. The maximum allowable humidity is 20%, and it is better if it is even lower. Clean sawdust on construction sites has not been used for a long time, because they settle and form voids, fungus may appear inside.

It is imperative to treat raw materials with boric acid or copper sulfate. The standard mixture also includes clay or cement (for finishing the ceiling), lime or gypsum.

The sawdust layer under the floor should be at least 200 mm, and in the northern regions of the Russian Federation this figure can be increased by another 50%. Bulk laying involves mixing wood processing waste with binding materials, then the composition is poured into molds made of wood, on which the floor is laid. The base is protected from dampness using kraft paper, polyethylene and similar materials. The composition is distributed uniformly over the entire area, it has to be tamped only in rare cases. The final readiness of the insulation is achieved in two days.

Examples of finished buildings

Beautiful frame baths can be made in a variety of designs. This is what a structure looks like with a not too steep roof pushed forward above the facade. A kind of platform is placed in front of the door, to which you need to climb a small staircase. The design concept is clearly built in the spirit of maximum naturalness of the building. Many corner baths, built using frame technology, are finished with siding.

With proper execution, it turns out to be extremely difficult to distinguish them from simple log buildings. The modern approach to saunas often involves the use of a minimalist style. A striking example is shown in the photo - there is only a canopy, a small ladder and clapboard walls and a rectangular window. You can build such a structure with your own hands, moreover, in the shortest possible time. It is easy and convenient to use any of the presented types of washing.

One of the first and most important stages in the construction of any building is the arrangement of a supporting structure that can withstand the loads generated by the structure and ensure its safety and integrity for many years of service. The compact 3x4 m bathhouse is no exception. Despite its objectively modest dimensions, this building also needs a high-quality and properly assembled supporting structure.

In the course of studying the information below, you will learn how to choose a suitable foundation for a 3x4 m bath, on the basis of which indicators the choice of a specific structure is determined, how to calculate it correctly and erect it directly. The information obtained will help you choose the most suitable type and optimal dimensions of the support, as well as refuse the services of third-party contractors, significantly saving the budget allocated for the construction of a bath.

There are 2 key requirements for the foundation of any building. First, the supporting structure must be as reliable and durable as possible. Secondly, the construction of the foundation should be such that seasonal ground movements do not have a significant impact on it.

When choosing a foundation design and its overall dimensions, among all other factors, it is necessary to take into account the type of soil at the construction site and the depth of soil freezing, in accordance with which such a significant indicator as the depth of the support structure is determined. In the course of studying third-party manuals, you probably came across the recommendation of not quite competent authors to lay the foundation at a depth of 60-80 cm, etc. In some cases, of course, such advice is relevant, but not always. The bottom line is that in different regions of the country the soil freezes to different depths and this must be taken into account. Information regarding these points is shown in the following table.

In addition to the depth of soil freezing, its type must be taken into account. The images show what types of soil exist and how they look.

Properties, composition and types of soils
Classification of soil varieties

The dependence of the laying depth on the level of groundwater flow and soil freezing is shown in the following table.

Based on the foregoing, a table can be given with recommendations for choosing the type of foundation for a 3x4 m bathhouse in accordance with the properties of the soil at the construction site.

Foundation	Illustration	Priming
Belt (prefabricated, monolithic, prefabricated-monolithic)		Non-porous, dry, sandy
		Non-subsiding clayey
Slab solid		Agile, heaving, subsiding
Pile		Almost all types of soil

Tape support structures are the most common and.

Slabs are somewhat less common, because can be used in combination with far from all types of soils - too mobile soil will simply destroy the slab.

Pile foundations are the most versatile, however, the purchase and installation of screw piles directly leads to an increase in the total cost of the work performed, which is far from acceptable for every developer.

A more budgetary option for a support structure, in many ways similar to a pile foundation, is a columnar foundation.

In view of the above, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for calculating and erecting the most commonly used types of support bases: strip foundations and columnar structures.

Foundation calculation: basic principles and important notes

The calculation procedure for strip and columnar foundations will differ. Task: to determine whether the base with the selected parameters can withstand the load created by the building from the materials selected by the developer, as well as atmospheric precipitation.

Calculation of the strip structure

In this example, a monolithic system of concrete and crushed granite is calculated. The following image clearly demonstrates the plan and dimensional characteristics of the base under construction. Taking the recommendations below as a basis, you will be able to independently correct the support plan and the procedure for calculating the loads.

Our strip foundation has dimensions of 4x3 m. The structure is inclined, expanding to the bottom. Thanks to this feature, a higher resistance to the forces of heaving of the soil on the site will be provided.

The strongest loads in the structure under consideration will be exposed to 4-meter sections, because the overlap and joists rest exactly on the side walls. Let's calculate what kind of load will be created by the floor and logs of the bath on 1 m of the foundation sole. To find the total value of the load, it is necessary to determine what load on the concrete structure will be created by the snow, the roof structure, the ceiling, and also the walls. In addition, the loads created directly by the material of manufacture of the supporting structure are taken into account.

Snow loads are determined by multiplying the standard load created by snow in a particular area by the load area of the roof structure for 1 m of the support system. The value of the standard snow load is determined according to the relevant documentation - here it is SNiP numbered 2.01.07-85. You can also navigate using a special map.

Additionally, standardized values of the coefficients used in finding snow loads will be given in the corresponding table.

To determine the load load of the roof structure per meter of base, the total roof area must be divided by the length of the support. For the calculation, in this case, only the lengths of the side bands are used (4 + 4 = 8 m). The length of the end parts (3 + 3 = 6 m) does not appear in this calculation, since the roof beams, as noted, will be supported specifically by the long bath walls.

We calculate snow loads in the following order:

we find the total area of the roofing structure. To do this, we multiply the values of the doubled length of the roof slopes and the length of the roof cornice. We calculate the length of the slope as follows: 3/2 = 1.5 / cos 45 = 2.86 m.The total area of the roof structure is calculated as follows: 2 * 2.86 = 5.72 * 4 = 22.88 m 2 (round up to 23 m 2);
we calculate the cargo area of the roof structure for a meter of support: 23/8 = 2.88 m 2;

as an example, we calculate the support system for a region included in zone II in terms of snow loads. The indicator of the specific snow load here will be 70 kgf / m 2 (the values for other zones will be shown in the table). We calculate as follows: 2.88 * 70 = 202 kgf.

Determine the load generated by the roof structure. We need to find the value of the load per square meter of the projection of the roofing system in the horizontal direction. We have 1.5 m of tiled gable roof. It is mounted at an angle of 45 degrees.

We select the appropriate value in the following table.

And we consider: 1.5 * 80 = 120 kgf.

To determine the load from the floors, we first look at the table.

In this example, the cargo area also falls on the sides of the supporting structure (the slabs rest on the side bath walls). We find the cargo area of the bath floors for each meter of the foundation system as follows: 4 * 3 = 12/4 = 3 m 2. The density of the wooden floor is 300 kg / m 3. We find the load as follows: 3 * 300 = 900 kgf. If the floor in your bath is made of reinforced concrete, in the calculations we use a value equal to 500 kg / m 3, instead of the mentioned 300 kg / m 3, which are relevant for wooden structures.

We will find out what kind of load the external walls will create on the bath base. We first study the following table.

We take the load value from the above table, after which we multiply it by the height of our bath walls, and then by the wall thickness. Let's take the height of the wall equal to 3 m, let's take the thickness at the level of 0.4 m. Our walls are built from logs / beams. We consider: 3 * 0.4 * 600 = 720 kgf.

To calculate the load from the foundation, we multiply the indicators of the volume of the meter of the tape and the density of the material of its manufacture. We take the density from the table.

We make concrete foundations and use crushed granite. The volume of a meter of tape specifically in our example is 0.45 m 3. We find the load: 0.45 * 2300 = 1035 kgf.

Prices for crushed granite

crushed granite

It remains only to find the complex load on 1 m of the sole of the tape structure in section A-A (it was shown in the figure above).

Let's summarize the calculated values: 202 + 120 + 900 + 720 + 1035 = 2977 kgf. A supporting structure with such a section has an area of 50 * 100 = 5000 cm 2. Determine the ground pressure: 2977/5000 = 0.6 kgf / cm 2. We build on lamellar clay soil. For such a soil, the calculated comparison of the bearing capacity is equal to an indicator of 1.5 kgf / cm 2. Consequently, the loads are more than permissible, and a foundation with such parameters will serve excellently for many years. You can get the calculated bearing capacity comparison for your soil from the following table.

Calculation of a columnar foundation

Let's calculate the columnar foundation. For its manufacture we use monolithic reinforced concrete. An approximate design diagram can be found in the following image.

Note! The picture shows a foundation plan for a structure with dimensions of 6x12 m.For a 3x4 m bath, the parameters will remain the same, only the number of support pillars will change (according to the standard, it is recommended to install them every 2 m, i.e. each wall will rest on 3 pillars - by 2 in the corners and 1 in the middle of the length).

At the top, the cross-section of the supports is 400x400 mm, in the sole - 800x800 mm. Specifically in your case, the dimensions may differ, be guided by the situation.

Let's find the total load created by the support sole on the soil. To do this, we need to subtract the mass of the support system from the load found in the previous calculation: 2977-1035 = 1942 kgf.

We multiply the indicators of the load created on the gap between the supports: 1942 * 2 = 3884 and add the weight of one support to the found value. Each of the supports we use has a volume of about 0.25 m 3. The density of the reinforced concrete used was indicated in the table above. We consider the mass of the column as follows: 0.25 * 2500 = 625 kgf. The load of one column on the soil will be equal to: 3884 + 625 = 4509 kgf. Each pillar has a support surface equal to 6400 cm 2 (found by multiplying 80 by 80). In our example, the indicator of the bearing capacity of the soil is 1.5 kgf / cm 2. To determine the maximum possible loads, we do the following: 6400 * 1.5 = 9600 kgf. The resulting value significantly exceeds the indicator of the loads we found (4509 kgf).

A columnar foundation with such characteristics will calmly withstand the loads created by a 3x4 m bath, and will not even "move". If desired, the dimensions of the supporting structures can be proportionally reduced - the main thing is that the calculated loads in the end do not exceed the limit.

At the same time, the arrangement of a columnar foundation, all other things being equal, will require about 3-4 times less concrete than a strip support. Excavation work will also be significantly reduced. In the next section, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the results of calculations of the required amount of material for arranging a tape support structure. You can then proportionally determine the consumption of concrete for pouring the pillars, taking into account the above information regarding material savings.

Calculation of materials for pouring the foundation

The configuration of the strip base directly depends on the selected internal layout of the bath, and the consumption of materials depends on it. In the case of a 3x4 m sauna, there are not many options for the internal layout of the sauna - we will show them, and you will choose the one that is relevant for your case. We will fill the foundation with concrete of the 200th grade - these dimensions are quite enough for a compact bath.

In our area, the soil freezes 80 cm. We lay the tape 20-30 cm deeper than the specified value. Take 110 cm.The width of the tape (A) is equal to 3 m, the length (B) - to 4 m, the height (C) - to 110 cm, thickness (D) - to 40 cm. Depending on the layout, the calculations will appear new values. We will describe them additionally in the corresponding sections.

The first layout option

Support for a bathhouse consisting of one room. This foundation looks like this.

The calculation for the tape is as follows (already taking into account the 10-centimeter stock on each side).

Second layout option

A more common internal bath configuration. Consists of a steam room, a washing room and a dressing room / rest room.

In this example, an additional element appears, labeled E. The total length of its constituent elements is 4 m.

The foundation drawing looks like this.

It is pointless to consider other layout options for a 3x4 m bath - the most rational ways of distributing the available space were presented above.

We make a strip foundation for a bath 3x4 m

The structure we are equipping looks like this schematically.

We get to work, following the instructions from the table.

Table. Arrangement of strip foundation

Stage of work	Description
	First, we remove garbage from the site and, in general, everything that will interfere with us in the process of performing work. Secondly, we remove the top fertile soil ball (usually its height is 150-200 mm). If this is not done, plants that have rotted in the future will ruin the foundation. It is better to try to remove the soil according to the level and carefully level it - this will simplify the process of subsequent marking of the base (you will not need to spend time determining the highest and lowest angles, which will save time). In the future, the area of the site, not occupied by a concrete tape, will need to be filled with compacted soil, cleared of various kinds of organic matter.
	We have leveled the site and can start marking from any angle - there will be no differences in height. At the location of any outer corner, we drive a reinforcing bar or a wooden block into the ground. We measure the distance to the next corner and drive in a new block / rod there. We stretch the rope between the hammered landmarks. Repeat for each corner of the tape. By marking out the corners of the tape, we get a pair of bars located next to each other (as shown in the photo). For convenience, we connect them from above with a horizontal bar from a bar. We measure the lengths of the diagonals. If they match, everything is fine, if they diverge, we made a mistake. We repeat the marking process more carefully.
	Digging trenches in accordance with the markings. Recommendations for choosing the optimal trench depth were given earlier. We are far from removing the soil - we then use it to fill in the depressions formed at the first stage of the work (mentioned in the corresponding paragraph). The bottom and walls of the trench are leveled and compacted. If the soil is crumbling, we install a temporary formwork made of boards.
	We use clean, fine-grained sand. Backfill layer thickness - from 200 mm. The higher the indicators of soil heaving, the more sand needs to be poured (up to 600 mm and even more). It is more convenient to cover the sand in small (10-15 cm) layers. The photo shows a device for manual compaction of sand.
	The photo shows another version of the device for manual tamping of the backfill. To make the sand better compacted, we spill it with water. It is better to do this before laying the material in the pit, so as not to wash out.
	Using a level, we check the evenness of the pillow. We eliminate drops by removing excess sand or adding it where the backfill has insufficient height. Note! In areas with a high groundwater level, instead of a completely sandy cushion, it is advisable to equip a backfill of sand and gravel in a ratio of 1: 1.5. Crushed stone is usually covered from the bottom of the sand.
	In the previously given calculations, it was indicated what materials and in what quantity would be needed for arranging the formwork. The diagram shows in detail what elements this structure consists of. You just have to prepare the required number of blanks, fasten them with screws (to make it easier to disassemble in the future) and install them in the trenches.
	In the photo you can see how the installed formwork for the strip foundation looks in reality. A layer of waterproofing material (for example, plastic foil) can be laid in the formwork. The presence of such will exclude the escape of moisture from the concrete solution.
	The calculations indicated how much and what kind of reinforcement should be used for a strip foundation of a particular structure. Follow the recommendations received. Reinforcement mesh can be made directly in the formwork (first, vertical rods are installed in 2 rows, then, perpendicular to them, horizontal crossbars, usually having a smaller diameter, are attached) or "on the ground" (then the finished mesh is placed in the formwork). The second option is more convenient to implement, otherwise there are no differences between them. To connect the rods at the intersection, we use either a knitting wire or special clamps for reinforcement (a more convenient option). We do not recommend fastening by welding - such a structure will last less. Important! Reinforcement mesh cannot be placed directly on the base - it will lead. Make sure there is a minimum of 5 cm clearance between the pillow and the rods. To do this, we use either stable stones (cheaper) or special fixation stands (more convenient, simpler and faster). A similar gap should be provided between the reinforcement mesh and the "top" of the fill. Both tapes for external walls and supporting elements for internal partitions are reinforced.
	If you wish, you can buy ready-made solution - save time. Helpful advice! Even for arranging a strip foundation for a compact 3x4 m bath, a lot of concrete will be needed (the calculations were given earlier). It will be quite difficult to quickly prepare it by hand - it is better to worry about buying or at least renting a concrete mixer in advance. We prepare concrete according to a standard recipe: we take a share of Portland cement of the M400 brand, for it - 3 shares of pure fine-grained sand, to which - 5 shares of crushed stone. The amount of water is determined by the weight of the cement - the liquid should be about half of this indicator. At the exit, we get a homogeneous mass of medium density.
	We fill the mortar with a uniform horizontal layer, leveling it in parallel with a shovel and piercing it with a reinforcing bar to eliminate excess air (if possible, it is recommended to purchase / rent a special device for this - a deep vibrator). Make sure the fill is level. After pouring, we tap with a wooden hammer or a block on the walls of the formwork - this will additionally guarantee the correct distribution of the mixture.
	According to the standard, concrete hardens and gains the required strength within 28 days. Helpful advice! In order for all the cement to react, we spill the surface of the pouring with a relatively small amount of water every day (especially important for the warm season - if there is a lack of liquid, the pouring will crack). After spilling water, we cover the foundation with polyethylene (it will prevent the solar heat from evaporating the water too quickly and will additionally protect the concrete from atmospheric precipitation). If it's cold outside, lay a layer of insulation on top of the polyethylene (it is most convenient to use polystyrene, it is not afraid of moisture, weighs little and is easy to fit / remove). We remove the formwork no earlier than the concrete hardens (this takes 1-1.5 weeks). In general, professionals recommend leaving the formwork until the concrete has fully set its strength.

Video - DIY strip foundation

We make a columnar foundation for a 3x4 m bath

Schematically, the structure to be equipped can be represented as follows.

We propose to make a columnar foundation using asbestos-cement pipes as formwork. We will fill it with the same solution as for the tape structure. We use similar rods for reinforcement. Preparatory activities - from garbage collection to removing a fertile ball of soil - are performed in the same order. We also make markings according to the already familiar scheme, with the only difference that here we mark on the site the places of the future installation of the pillars: in the corners of each wall and partition, as well as along the length of those with a step of up to 2 m.

Prices for asbestos-cement pipes

asbestos-cement pipes

We proceed to the arrangement of a columnar base for a 3x4 m bath, following the provisions of the table below.

Table. Making a columnar foundation

Stage of work	Description
	Armed with a hand drill with a working "nozzle" of the appropriate diameter (most often the pillars are made with a diameter of either 250 mm or 400 mm - depending on the expected loads on the base), we prepare recesses for future supports. It is recommended to make the pits a couple of centimeters wider than the future pillars (the gaps will later be filled with compacted earth or sand). Above the ground, the pillars are usually taken out 200-250 mm. We select the depth so that the pillars are lowered below the freezing point of the soil by 200-300 mm. Recommendations regarding the determination of the freezing depth were given earlier.
	We cover the bottom of each pit with a layer of sand. Recommendations regarding the choice of layer thickness, its alternative composition and tamping remain similar to the provisions for the arrangement of the strip foundation. For ramming, a log of the appropriate diameter with handles fixed on top is perfect for more convenience.
	We assemble the reinforcing frame, focusing on the size of the pillar to be equipped. Recommendations for the selection of the characteristics of the rods, their fastening and the dimensions of the gaps between the bottom and the top are the same as when erecting a strip support structure. Additionally, here it is recommended to leave 3-5 cm gaps between the mesh and the walls of the formwork (pipes). An approximate view of the reinforcing structure is shown in the photo. Select the shape of the frame in accordance with the shape of the pipes. We insert the pipes into the recesses and align them vertically, place a reinforcing mesh in the pipes and proceed to the next stage of work.
	The order is as follows: - pour concrete into the formwork pipe to a height of about 5 cm; - we raise the pipe - concrete fills the space under it, due to which an additional support platform is formed; - we lower the pipe; - pour concrete to full height. We align the pipes vertically with a level / plumb line.
	Fill the gaps between the posts and the walls of the holes with compacted soil / sand. We provide additional stability of the pipes in any suitable way, for example, by installing temporary supports or by enclosing the pipes with massive stones. We leave the concrete to freeze.
	We lay waterproofing on top of the hardened concrete: - we spread a layer of molten bitumen; - we lay roofing material, press and level; - we repeat again. The formwork need not be dismantled - it will not interfere. It is recommended to continue construction after the concrete has set the required strength, i.e. a month later.