Plastic windows execution options. Plastic windows, types and types of windows made of pvc profiles, classification of plastic windows

We are all accustomed to the fact that lining for many rooms is a traditional finishing material. It is customary to decorate ceilings with clapboard on balconies and in saunas. Often, hallways and corridors in dachas and in country houses differ in a similar way of decoration. This is because a tree in this form is beautiful, practical and convenient. The situation is the same with ceilings. Having made the ceiling from the lining, you can forget about this part of the room for a long time, occasionally wiping it and refreshing the appearance.

This article is about what kind of lining can be and how to maximize the benefits of this type of design for finishing ceilings. Everything in order.

What are clapboard ceilings

Lining is a traditional and one of the most common finishing materials. The reason for such popularity of wooden plank panels and ceilings goes back to the days of the USSR. At that time, wood was a very cheap and affordable building material. It was customary to sheathe the cottages and verandas from the inside with lining. Ceiling lining with a wooden board of expensive types of wood was used as an element of interior decoration for baths, saunas and living quarters. It was considered special chic to sheathe clapboard and on the balconies. Often people tried to veneer the corridor in the apartment and the hallway with wood.

Today the situation has changed dramatically. Wood from the category of cheap and affordable materials has moved into the category of elite finishing methods. Despite this, the population remains in the habit of paying attention in such cases to this type of design. Sheathing the ceiling with clapboard, wooden or plastic, is considered one of the favorite and common finishing options. Here it will be appropriate to say about the advantages of this finish option. The ceiling surface, sewn into wood, turns out:

perfectly smooth and even;
with characteristic external data;
visually more, due to the correct arrangement of wooden planks;
high-tech and simple to perform.

This should include the environmental factor. Wood, unlike other materials, is a safe material for people. The finished structure looks beautiful and does not require any special maintenance, and the plastic panels, MDF strips on the ceiling are simple and unpretentious to maintain.

On a note: when decorating the ceiling with wooden strips (planks), the fire factor must be taken into account. must be located in rooms where there is no open flame and where the probability of accidental ignition is low.

On top of that, the idea of \u200b\u200bmaking wooden ceilings on your own at home or in the country deserves attention. Having at hand detailed instructions, the appropriate set of tools and the required amount of material, you can actually perform the installation of the lining on the ceiling in the bath, in the sauna or on the balcony with your own hands. The main thing is to know how to sheathe and what is better to sheathe in each specific case.

What materials are lining made of today

The lining in the sense in which we see it is strips, wood or from another material. Such wooden strips were used to sheathe railway carriages, more for freight, less often for passenger. This is where the name, specific at first glance, came from.

The name of the material rather emphasizes its shape and method of installation. Today, strips used for finishing works are produced, traditionally made of wood. The material is produced from MDF boards. However, plastic panels (strips) are most often used today, less often metal strips. Ceiling lining with clapboard made of different materials depends more on the operational characteristics of the room.

Important! The efficiency and practicality of plastic lining is significantly different from the wooden counterpart. In comparison with the cost of wooden lining, the cost of material and work with plastic panels is many times lower.

It is customary to divide the finishing material of the "lining" type of the following types:

wooden;
from MDF - panels;
metal;
plastic.

All of the listed types have the same fastening principle, therefore, the choice of material does not matter much for the installation of ceiling structures. Before the purchase itself, you need to clearly know where the work will be carried out, in which room it is planned to make the ceiling.

For instance: for baths, saunas and verandas it is best to use wooden strips made of oak, beech and other, durable and moisture-resistant wood species. It is important for us to get an environmentally friendly and comfortable environment inside the premises. In this regard, wood is an irreplaceable material.

Giving preference to wood, at this stage you should know that the lining of the ceiling with wooden clapboard has its own subtleties and features.

Important! In terms of quality, wooden lining is of four categories, each of which differs in the number of knots and dark spots in the wood structure. The more knots and spots, the cheaper the material.

It is preferable to use pine planks for finishing balconies, but linden, alder and aspen are also suitable. With appropriate processing, such structures can serve for a long time, without losing their technological qualities and characteristics.

MDF wooden ceilings are designed for installation in dry rooms only. The slightest exposure to moisture will lead to rapid damage to the finished ceiling structure, associated with deformation and collapse of the entire structure. Installation of MDF - panels in the kitchen with a metal frame is allowed. The structural strength in this case is a guarantee of your safety.

For an apartment with a regular bathroom, ceilings made of lining made of plastic panels will look best. The factor of practicality and convenience in service plays a decisive role here. As for the living quarters itself, it is very good for a summer cottage or guest house to use wood for finishing the upper part of the premises. Such a surface will breathe and promote good air exchange inside the room.

Lining mounting options

For residential premises, a wooden frame is mainly used for installing ceiling structures. This is especially true for the summer cottage option. Wooden mounts are very easy to use. It is easier to nail assembly nails to wooden blocks and slats. Clips and self-tapping screws are easier to contact with wood. How to fix the lining to the ceiling if it is necessary to sheathe a large room in this way? In this situation, you cannot do without a solid and solid frame.

In the usual sense, we are dealing with one of the types of suspended ceilings. With the help of the formed frame, you can easily and quickly hide all existing imperfections on the rough surface, old paint or plaster. Due to the correctly assembled frame, a new finishing surface is created, on which finishing materials will continue to be held. It is convenient to place additional sources of lighting in the interceiling space; communications and electrical wiring are hidden.

Important! Do not believe those who claim that a board or plastic can be mounted directly to the ceiling or wall. You can't do without lathing.

How to sheathe the ceiling surface without using metal parts and accessories, in which cases the metal frame will be more reliable, we will consider further.

Working on the frame

If you want to make a ceiling from the lining in the corridor, in the hallway, in the bedroom, in other rooms of a large area, the metal frame is an indispensable element of the ceiling structure. The use of planks of hardwood, which is distinguished by significant weight, will also require additional metal support. This mostly applies to the equipment of the ceiling in baths and saunas.

A metal frame is formed from aluminum profiles similar in shape and parameters to the metal guides used in plasterboard ceiling structures.

Wooden lining on the ceiling using a metal frame will increase your finishing costs. For these purposes you will need:

a UD profile is used to form the perimeter;
the frame itself is already typed using CD profiles;
the ceiling-mounted structure is fixed with U-shaped clamps and crabs.

Self-tapping screws, staples and clips are usually used for mounting boards on a frame. The last two options for fastening strips are most often used when working with plastic panels. Nails and staples are primarily designed to work with a timber frame.

The fixing of the metal profiles is the same as for the false ceilings. Fix the hangers on the base surface, on which the guides will be laid.

Usually, for work on balconies or in small rooms, wooden beams are used for lathing. Sizes of materials 40x40 or 50x50 mm. The beam is the main part of the entire structure, including additional lintels and reinforcing strips. With the help of plastic dowels in combination with screws and nails - screws, wooden battens are attached to the ceiling. For the reliability of the entire structure, fix the wooden blocks to the base surface using anchors or hardened self-tapping screws.

The figure shows an approximate scheme for laying boards based on a wooden frame.

MDF strips are laid in the same way. For this purpose, strips of equal length are cut, 3-5 cm less than the distance between opposite walls. The width of the strips can be similar to wooden planks, 100 mm and 130 mm.

Important! Use ready-made, factory-made MDF panels, on which the front side is chamfered.

Compliance with the installation technology and the correct selection of materials will tell you how to hem or in a sauna with a wooden board. With proper installation of the frame and laying the boards, the finished ceiling surface will not only be perfectly smooth and integral, but also even in accordance with the chosen plane.

We make a ceiling from plastic lining

An economical and practical option for interior decoration of ceiling structures is plastic lining. Due to the fact that today a huge number of types and types of plastic panels are produced, this type of ceiling design is very relevant and deserves attention.

On a note: finishing the ceiling with plastic clapboard is very appropriate in household premises, where there is intense pollution of the ceiling surface. In residential premises, the use of plastic is limited due to the peculiarities of apartment design.

Plastic panels are very popular for office ceiling decoration. The modern design of plastic ceilings does not imply a home style, therefore, such ceiling structures, despite their originality and manufacturability, will not be appropriate in bedrooms or in the country.

The method of laying plastic lining is identical to working with wooden boards. There is the same 3-5 cm gap to compensate for the effect of thermal expansion. Laying the fragments starts from the starting bar. Do not forget to make holes during the installation of plastic panels for installing lamps. In order to know how to fix the lining to the plastic ceiling, a wooden frame is used. In this case, metal will only make the entire ceiling structure heavier.

Conclusion

Installation of ceiling structures in this way is by far the most convenient option for interior decoration of household premises. For living rooms, this method is suitable only in the suburban version. Ceiling structures made of planks and plastic panels in a sauna, a bathhouse, the ceilings of summer kitchens and verandas have their own flavor and originality. To summarize, you should remember the following:

1. Lining in popularity takes one of the leading places among the used ceiling design options;

2. Finished products can be made of different materials:

wood;
plastic;
metal.

3. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, suitable for cladding ceiling structures in saunas, baths, kitchens and hallways;

4. Plastic and metal panels are more related to the office finish;

5. Installation of ceiling structures is carried out on the frame;

6. The frame can be metal or wood.

Clapboard ceiling decoration is at the same time a beautiful, practical and functional solution for any room. Consider the advantages and disadvantages, the secrets of choice and the step-by-step technology of assembling wooden lining with your own hands.

The content of the article:

The modern assortment of ceiling cladding materials is very extensive and varied. Along with plastic panels and gypsum plasterboards, a profiled board made of natural wood can be safely attributed to the most relevant cladding options. It is not difficult to explain the popularity of clapboard ceiling decoration: it is absolutely environmentally friendly, beautiful and simple in terms of installation and subsequent maintenance.

Advantages and disadvantages of finishing the ceiling with clapboard

Ceiling cladding with natural wood panels is rightfully considered a classic of the building genre. In comparison with competitive finishing materials, lining has many undeniable advantages:

Excellent performance... Wood trim is strong, reliable and durable. With competent pre-assembly preparation and correct subsequent care, it will last at least 12-15 years.
Ecological cleanliness... Unlike synthetic "congeners", cladding made of natural lining is not only harmless, but also useful for the dwellers. Due to its hygroscopic properties, wood is able to purify the air and normalize the humidity level in the room.
Ease of installation... A distinctive feature of the finishing profiled board is the presence of special grooves and ridges. Thanks to these structural elements, ceiling cladding is easy and quick, even without the need for help.
Practicality and functionality... Plating the ceiling base with clapboard allows you to mask minor flaws and flaws made during construction or repair. In addition, behind the covering of decorative panels, you can hide electrical wiring, pipes, ventilation ducts, sound or heat insulation layer.
Aesthetic appearance... The ceiling made of wooden lining looks solid, stylish and impressive and, importantly, it is compatible with almost any room design.
Saving your construction budget... Using a natural board for lining the ceiling, you can save a lot on the purchase of starting and finishing materials - plaster, putty, paint, wallpaper, etc.

The disadvantages of this finish include the following:

Competent lining of the ceiling with clapboard implies the obligatory construction of a frame lathing. Structures of this type noticeably "steal" the height of the dwelling.
The next disadvantage of wood sheathing is the low level of fire safety. To protect the material from the destructive and dangerous effects of fire, before installation work, it is carefully treated with protective fire retardants.
It should be borne in mind that natural lining, appreciated for its strength and durability, can slightly change the geometric parameters and deform due to improper operation or careless maintenance.

Criteria for choosing lining for ceiling decoration

Sheathing wooden board is presented on the construction market in a huge range. To determine the choice of this material, you should have a clear idea of \u200b\u200bits varieties and properties. The main criteria by which modern lining is distinguished are the type of wood used, its grade and section profile.

Wood species when choosing lining for the ceiling

Traditionally, coniferous or deciduous wood is used for the manufacture of lining:

Coniferous wood... This category includes pine, spruce, fir, larch and cedar. Products from the listed raw materials are practical, durable and resistant to moisture and fungi, so they can be used for finishing ceilings both in residential and in utility rooms and in utility rooms. The only thing is that such lining is not recommended for the inner lining of saunas and baths, since with a sharp increase in temperature, aromatic coniferous wood releases an abundant amount of resinous substances that can provoke spontaneous combustion of the material.
Hardwood... This category includes oak, beech, ash, aspen, alder and linden. Such wood lends itself well to mechanical processing, toning and artificial aging techniques. Due to its high decorative effect, it is suitable for cladding ceilings in premises for various purposes - from terraces and balconies to bedrooms and children's rooms. A distinctive property of deciduous material is resistance to temperature fluctuations and dampness. That is why ceilings of this type of lining are often equipped in rooms with high and variable humidity.

Classes of lining for ceiling decoration

A separate topic is the assortment of lining. Depending on the quality of the original wood, all molded timber is divided into several classes:

Class "A"... Lumber marked with such a marking is characterized by the presence of small single knots and small blind cracks. It should be noted that, according to the established standards, the listed flaws are allowed only in invisible zones and areas (reverse side and end part of the board).

Class "B"... The lining of this class has noticeable roughness and unevenness, shallow longitudinal grooves and resin sacs. On the front surface of such products, you can find traces of mechanical stress - chips, scratches, notches and burrs.

Class "C"... Lumber of the last class includes edged boards with noticeable mechanical damage and pronounced defects in wood - extensive knots, short through cracks, stains of a contrasting shade and opened resin pockets.

Note! For finishing lining of ceilings in residential premises, experts recommend using the lining of the first two classes. As for the materials marked "B" and "C", it is better to use them to create an intermediate frame or rough filing.

The profile of the tree when choosing lining for finishing the ceiling

Depending on the type of profile connection, all wooden lining intended for finishing ceilings and other surfaces in living quarters is divided into ordinary and "euro". The first is cheaper than the second, but at the same time it is significantly inferior to it in terms of configuration and processing quality:

The lining of the European model differs from the traditional one in the correct geometry, as well as in a more complex and deep groove-ridge connection, which prevents the formation of gaps between adjacent boards even with significant temperature and humidity movements.
An important difference between European and classic clapboard is in terms of humidity. During the production process, the first one undergoes mandatory drying in automated chambers, due to which the wood acquires the necessary strength and plasticity.
The next argument in favor of Euro-lining is the presence of special ventilation ducts that act as air ducts and are responsible for the full outflow of accumulating condensate.

Do-it-yourself technology for mounting lining on the ceiling

Sheathing the ceiling with a wooden board is a task feasible for any interested craftsman. Thanks to the convenient locking joints, the assembly of the cladding sheet is quick and extremely simple. Let's take a closer look at how to fix the lining to the ceiling so that the finish is beautiful and durable.

Preparatory work before finishing the ceiling with clapboard

At the first stage of the work, a number of certain preparatory measures should be performed:

To begin with, remove the old cladding and finishing materials from the base ceiling. The surface is thoroughly cleaned from dirt and dust. Small cracks found in the floor slab are sealed with a putty mixture, deep cracks are embroidered with a grinder and concreted with a cement-sand mortar.
To prevent biodegradation of the wood finish, the prepared base must be covered with a deep penetration antiseptic composition. The ceiling is primed in two stages using a fleecy roller equipped with a telescopic rod. The recommended time interval between the first and second application of the protective emulsion is 2-3 hours.
At the same stage of work, the lining purchased for finishing the ceiling is freed from the packaging wrapper, sorted and laid out in one layer on a flat horizontal surface in the room to be installed. This simple procedure will help prevent cracking, warping and shrinkage of the purchased material.

Surface marking for mounting the lining on the ceiling

At this stage of the work, it is necessary to prepare for the subsequent arrangement of the frame system and correctly mark the ceiling surface. The main purpose of the markup is to determine the horizontal, which indicates the plane of the location of the wood trim, and to draw parallel lines on all walls around the perimeter of the room.

It is most convenient to mark the ceiling with a laser tool, however, as an alternative, it is permissible to use a regular building level. With the help of the latter, the lowest point of the base base is determined and, starting from it, they make marks on the walls around the perimeter of the room.

To apply a closed contour, use a marker or dyeing paint cord. It is important that the laid line converges at a single point, and any displacements indicate errors in the marking process.

The height of the interceiling space should not only mask the unevenness and inaccuracies of the floor slab, but also allow free laying of all communications, insulating materials and built-in lighting devices. As a rule, when finishing with clapboard, the ceiling is lowered by no more than 7-10 cm.

Arrangement of a frame for a lining ceiling

At the end of the marking work, the construction of the supporting frame is started. For the manufacture of the lathing, a metal profile or planed beams with a section of 50x50 mm are used. Immediately you can use the substandard lining found during sorting. The main thing to remember is that all wooden elements of the frame structure are subject to mandatory antiseptic treatment.

Let's take a closer look at the rules for arranging a frame for a ceiling made of lining:

The crate is installed, according to the markings, in the direction perpendicular to the position of the future facing sheet. With the longitudinal fastening of the lining, the frame strips are fixed across the room, with the transverse fastening of the wooden sheathing, the frame is mounted along the room.
The prepared elements of the supporting structure are fixed in the next order: first, the edging strips are attached, then the intermediate ones. Dowels and screws are used to fix the details of the crate.
The optimal distance between adjacent rows of the frame system is 30-40 cm. To avoid the possibility of sagging of the facing sheet, the structure is additionally reinforced with transverse bridges or hangers.
During construction, the crate is periodically checked for flatness. If necessary, all inaccuracies are corrected with the help of placed bars or pegs of appropriate sizes.

Note! Before installing the lining, all cables, wiring, foundations of built-in lamps, as well as heat and sound insulating materials are carefully laid in the ceiling space.

Fastening the lining to the ceiling

Next, they proceed to the direct cladding of the frame structure. In order to quickly and reliably form the ceiling from the lining with your own hands, the panels are fastened using secret metal clamps. Such fixing elements are both invisible and reliable: on the one hand, they are attached to the wrong side of the finishing board, on the other, to the crate.

The installation of wooden panels begins from one of the corners of the room, while technological gaps (up to 10 mm) must be left between the walls and the extreme strips for possible thermal expansion of the material and unhindered ventilation in the ceiling recess.
The first plank is attached on both sides to the frame beams using a furniture stapler. The second board is inserted at a slight angle into the grooves of the first, inserted until it stops and fixed in the places where the lathing runs with the help of cleats.
Fastening of subsequent panels is carried out in the same way as the first two. For reliability, each installed bar is gently tapped along the entire length with a mallet.
In the course of a set of a wooden ceiling, through holes of the desired configuration are cut out in the necessary places for the output of the supply wires. To trim the lining, use an electric jigsaw or a hand saw.
At the end of the cladding work, all gaps between the wooden sheathing and the walls are sealed with additional elements of a suitable size. Decorative clips or small furniture nails are used as fasteners.
If desired, the clapboard finish is coated with protective compounds based on natural oils or beeswax. Such impregnations enhance the natural beauty of wood, give it a soft matte color and protect it from mold and wood-boring beetles.

Before starting the installation work, you should de-energize the room to be tiled by turning off the circuit breakers in the switchboard.

How to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard - look at the video:

Having studied the step-by-step technology of mounting the lining on the ceiling and correctly organizing the finishing process, even a novice master will be able to turn a scattering of wooden planks into a beautiful and reliable facing canvas.

Incredibly, it is easy to hem the ceiling with clapboard yourself! Just a few efforts, a little time spent, a little knowledge, and you're done. Indeed, installation of finishing materials is not difficult. It is enough to have a good helper next to you, because you cannot install it on your own.

In rooms, as a rule, ceilings are not sheathed. But the kitchen, bathroom, veranda are just those premises where it will be most appropriate.

Having identified the room, let's talk about the materials and tools that we will need.

Tools and materials

To sheathe the ceiling from the lining with your own hands, you need a frame.

For cladding ceilings with your own hands, you do not need to buy expensive tools, because any master will surely find such a tool. We will need:

screwdriver;
roulette;
small-toothed hacksaw or jigsaw;
level;
punch or drill;
hammer.

By the way, the tool can be rented in hardware stores.

The lathing can be either metal or wooden.

Wooden lathing for the house it is most preferable, since panels are easier to attach to it, and it wins in price compared to a metal profile.

Metal crate more commonly used for drywall.

When lining the ceiling with clapboard in the bathroom, it will also be preferable to install a metal frame. This is due to the fact that metal deformation does not occur in a humid room.

To install a frame made of wooden blocks you need:

wooden beam 40 * 40 mm;
brackets that are fasteners;
wedges, wood or plastic, used to install the frame;
self-tapping screws for fastening.

To install a metal frame, we will need:

steel metal profile;
connecting elements;
profile suspension;
anchors and screws for metal.

Choosing a material

Now select the panels themselves. They are divided into several types:

metal,
plastic,
wooden,

They have the same fastening principle. Before buying, you need to decide which room we will sheathe.

For wet rooms, a bathroom, for example, plastic is more suitable. But for the kitchen and veranda, the best option would be wooden, given its environmental friendliness and naturalness.

There are many materials for cladding, and they all differ from each other.

Woodenhave four categories, differing from each other by the presence of dark spots and knots on their surface.

The fewer spots and knots, the more expensive the material.

As for the choice of the breed from which the panel boards are made, it is better to choose pine, linden or cedar.

Plastic good for damp rooms, but direct sunlight causes "fading".

They bend easily, hide the unevenness of the ceiling coverings well, but cracks from constant stress can appear on them.

But the cracks cannot be repaired.

MDF panels should only be used in dry rooms. Moisture can cause material damage, deformation and collapse.

After purchase, you should not immediately cover the ceiling with them. The panels must lie down so that their temperature is equal to the temperature of the room where they will be installed.

Preparing for sheathing.

Diagonal cladding

Before strengthening the frame, you need to prepare the ceiling. Cracks and holes need to be patched... Decaying plaster is also removed.

It is imperative to treat the surface with a special solution from the fungus, which can form under the skin.

If necessary, we insulate it with penofol or izolon - this is a foil-based heat-insulating material.

Having processed the ceiling covering, we turn to the frame.

We mount the battens.

Installation from wooden beams:

To begin with, we determine the level at which the crate is mounted.

Then we mark the direction of the bars. The panel should be attached strictly perpendicular to the direction of the timber. It can be fastened vertically, horizontally and diagonally.

Now brackets are attached at the same distance from each other. A timber bar is attached to the brackets. To level the level of the lathing, use wooden wedges.

The lathing is installed very evenly, the lining will be stuffed on it. Otherwise, the coating will turn out to be wavy, ugly.

Wooden frame, must be treated with an antifungal agent. This will extend the life of the ceiling.

Mounting from a metal profile:

On the walls, around their perimeter, fix the metal profile... We fix the suspensions.

The main profiles of the frame sheathing are attached to the suspension itself and the starting profile.

Remember to adjust the level before securing the batten.

After installing the lathing, we proceed to the filing of the ceiling covering.

Video - how to sheathe the ceiling with your own hands:

Sheathing with nails and clamps

Now let's talk about how to attach the lining to the ceiling. This is done as follows:

boards are nailed to the crate strictly perpendicularly, directing the panels to the wall with a spike;
installed using a level, attaching it with self-tapping screws;
the second panel is inserted in such a way that its spike coincides with the groove of the first one and is fixed in the same way as the first, applying a level.
we sew to the end;
holes are made in plastic panels with a drill before sheathing, thereby avoiding surface damage during installation.

The finished coating is decorated with wooden skirting boards around the perimeter, which well hide the cracks of the trimmed lining.

To make the lining ceiling look beautiful, you can paint it. And it is better to varnish, and the sheathing, for example, a contour of skirting boards, go through a stain of a darker color in relation to the main one, and then varnish.

Now you can admire the finished beautiful handmade ceiling.

Video - installation of plastic panels:

Price in rubles

A real professional job.

The cost of the panels depends on the type of wood, on its species, the quality of drying of the material, the equipment on which the panels are made, on their length.

The panels are divided according to three price parameters: high, medium and low.

High - high quality material, made from softwood hardwood. They are processed according to the European standard. Their price is not less than 310 rubles. per square meter.

Average - hard deciduous trees, their price ranges from 215 to 310 rubles. per square meter.

Low - conifers. Their price ranges from 100 to 215 rubles. per square meter.

When calculating the cost of cladding work, we calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe surface to be coated. Installation of cladding is estimated in the range from 150 to 350 rubles. per square meter. It depends on the complexity of the job and the craftsman doing the job.

Knowing how to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard using the above information, you can do it yourself. And if you need to hire a master, then you yourself can calculate the cost of his work. Good luck!

Lining is a finishing material that is widely used in construction. Ceiling lining with clapboard is often used when decorating country houses and baths... This finishing material has been known for many years. The ceiling made of wooden lining looks attractive, it is easy to breathe with it. Lining is also used for exterior decoration of buildings. The edges of this product have a special fastening groove. The connection is reliable, durable and protects the structure from the penetration of excess moisture.

Before you start to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, the material must be treated with an antiseptic, and then varnished or painted.

Types and some characteristics of the lining

There are different types of lining. The most common ones are wood and plastic. Plastic lining is used very often when cladding walls and ceilings. It is made in the form of separate slats, which have some advantages over other finishing materials:

It has excellent decorative qualities and attractive appearance.
Doesn't require any additional processing after installation.
It is attached to the surface very easily and easily.
Well hides all the errors of the base surface.
The material does not corrode, does not rot.
Its cost is much lower than the price of wooden lining.
When installing plastic panels, additional noise insulation and room insulation can be performed.

Features of wooden lining:

It is an environmentally friendly natural material.
Installation is more complicated than its plastic counterpart.
Has higher thermal insulation properties than plastic material.
Has a fairly high durability.
The surface of the ceiling, lined with wooden clapboard, requires special care.
It has a beautiful appearance.
Lining the ceiling with clapboard allows you to install additional heat protection and sound insulation.
It is much more expensive than plastic products.
An excellent material for interior decoration in dry rooms.

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Tools for work

To finish the ceiling with clapboard with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools:

punch or drill;
screwdriver;
hammer;
construction square;
level;
rule;
roulette;
scissors for cutting metal;
a hacksaw with fine teeth;
bars for lathing with a thickness of 20 mm (it can be wooden slats or metal profiles UD and CD);
dowels and self-tapping screws for fastening elements of the crate;
crabs (cross-shaped attachments for metal profiles).

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Ceiling plating process

Clapboard ceiling cladding should be carried out without haste, since a defect in the work can not always be corrected. The procedure is something like this:

The lathing begins by identifying the lowest corner of the room. In this place, from the corner downward, a distance is measured equal to the sum of the thickness of the timber or profile and the thickness of the lining. A mark is placed on the wall.
The mark is transferred using a water or laser level to all walls of the room.
All marks are connected with a fishing line or nylon thread. A line along the perimeter of the room beats along it on the walls.
If wooden slats are used for the construction of the lathing, they must be pre-treated to protect them from mold and mildew with an antiseptic.
The lathing elements are attached to the wooden ceiling with self-tapping screws. The distance between the bars is no more than 50 cm.
The crate is attached to the concrete surface with dowels, for which it is necessary to drill the appropriate holes.
First, the extreme slats are attached, then the rest. The beam closest to the wall is fixed 10 cm from it. Using wooden, plywood or other spacers, the battens are leveled to obtain a strictly horizontal surface. This is checked with a fishing line stretched between the extreme bars of the sheathing.
The wiring for the lighting fixtures is being installed.
The initial panel of the lining is attached to the lathing with a gap of 5-7 mm from the wall.
Next, install the following strips, tightly inserting them into the locks of the previous ones. Sometimes you have to hit them with light blows with a rubber mallet. Fastening is done with small screws, nails. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the wooden paneling so that the panel does not split.
For the installation of lighting fixtures, the corresponding holes are cut using a sharp knife, jigsaw, special drill bits. When cutting holes in plastic lining, it is recommended to warm up the knife.
The last strip most often has to be adjusted to size, cutting it along with a hacksaw or jigsaw.
The clapboard is finished. It remains to install a ceiling plinth, which will close the gap between the wall and the cladding material and give the ceiling surface a finished look.