How to make a table from. We make a beautiful and strong country table with our own hands

In furniture stores, a huge number of various coffee tables are sold: round, square, glass, wooden of any color and completely different cost. But all the tables are similar to each other like twin brothers. It is very difficult to find a piece of furniture that would not be like everyone else. We offer you to create a magnificent, elegant and compact glass and wood coffee table with your own hands. Having such an interior detail, you will get great satisfaction from owning a completely unique item.

The table will bring comfort to your life: now you don't have to get up from the couch to get a cup of coffee and the TV remote control - you just need to turn the table top and voila!

The table top can be any of your choice: transparent glass, on which the sunbeams are reflected, or colored glass, suitable for the interior of your living room. If the glass does not fit the style of the room, then you can replace it with chipboard. The swivel stem is achieved by using skate rollers.

A tabletop made of ordinary glass is very fragile and requires special attention. In order not to think about how it would not break into many dangerous fragments, we recommend using tempered glass of at least 10 mm, which will be cut and processed by a specialized company. Alternatively, you can buy a ready-made round tabletop. Taking this little precaution will prevent you from worrying that your child will hit the table and get hurt while playing.

The base of the coffee table is made of natural wood, the recommended thickness is 40 mm. and width 120 mm. The legs are 350 mm high. From foot to center, length 450 mm.

On the planks that we plan to make vertical, draw the markup at an angle of 120 degrees, then cut it off. You have to try very hard to make the edges clear and even, otherwise a not very beautiful look will show through the tabletop, so we recommend using a circular saw. As a result, we get beautiful planks with smooth edges.

The wooden frame is connected to each other using furniture dowels and wood glue.

The horizontal part that can be seen through the worktop must be correctly assembled. To do this, first we apply a pencil marking on one of the planks and drill a hole perpendicular to the cut.

Insert any sharp object into the hole of the first plank. It can be an ordinary nail, wrapped with electrical tape, then squeeze them together; this will allow you to see the nail mark on the second plank and you will see the exact location to drill the dowel hole.

Then we must check all the strips for symmetry.

All planks must be carefully processed with a special fine grain machine to avoid nicks that can cause injury.

To achieve the smoothness of the planks, you can open the surface in several layers of varnish, using an ordinary soft sponge. Every time we open the varnish, we must alternate with sanding, otherwise the layers of varnish that we did before can raise the pile. The varnish must be allowed to dry completely.

The next step is to assemble the base. Where there will be connections, it is imperative to grease with glue, then pull together and leave for a day. The glue should dry.

However, simply gluing the table slats may not be enough. For reliability, on the back of the connection point, you need to fix it with a metal plate. The frame is ready!

Next, we begin to install the skate rollers. You don't need to buy a whole skate to do this, the rollers can be purchased at any store that sells sports goods.

The rollers should stand strictly at a distance of 100 mm from the edge of the table and fixed parallel to their slats. If not done correctly, you run the risk of getting an uneven tabletop that will slide out when you turn to the side. If everything is done correctly. but the tabletop still does not spin evenly, then you can make a small hole in the center and put a metal or wooden rod with a large round head there.

Let's take a look at practical tips that make it easier to assemble a table with your own hands and help you achieve the best results. The construction of a country house is divided into several stages. A serious step is the arrangement of the summer cottage. Furniture plays an important role in the comfort zone. A wooden table complements the overall interior and improves the functionality of the room. But buying it may not always be successful, so we suggest considering a homemade option. It can be placed outdoors or indoors. Such furniture plays an important role in the arrangement.

We use either pallets or wooden boards as building materials. An unforgettable requirement for the material is the absence of moisture. With sufficient funds and desire, new boards will be very effective in construction. The quality and long service life of any furniture depends on the quality of the materials purchased for its assembly; how well they are processed before use. After successfully purchasing the necessary materials, in this case wooden planks, fold them into rows and leave them to ventilate. The longer this type of material will stand and ventilate, the better it will serve in the future.

Any furniture is primarily made only from dry wood.

As mentioned above, tables are suitable for a wide variety of places and complement furniture literally everywhere. Individual manufacturing methods are selected for each table. For example, you set out to decorate the gazebo with a wooden table. And this is quite convenient and correct, since spending time in the summerhouse without a table is somehow uncomfortable. Home-made furniture just doesn't hurt. In the process of work, it is not necessary to glue the boards. It is enough to fix it with special fasteners. This approach greatly simplifies the manufacture of outdoor countertops. Or you can purchase them on the website https://stone-fortress.ru/. First, you don't waste a lot of time building. Secondly, it is quite possible to replace the glue with other effective means, which means that financial costs will decrease.

Pallets, like wooden parts, are highly distinguishable in color. Accordingly, you visually decorate the table the way you want. Pallets have side parts. They are used as a framework. True, before this, the material must be sanded properly. It is worth considering that all the material will not be used up. The remaining planks can serve as the countertop fastening elements. The bonding point is in the area of \u200b\u200bthe board joints. To join the board, you need only two screws. For the last one - one.

The sides and two planks will be used to build the frame. At the end we fix parts of the frame with self-tapping screws. It is not necessary to attach the frame with self-tapping screws, it is enough just to glue it. Since the length of the screws is large, we drill individual holes.

Our table will be out soon. It remains to turn it over and start sanding. Use coarse-grained sandpaper at first, fine sandpaper later. The next step is to install the legs. This will require four boards of exactly the same size. If necessary, of course, you will have to correct the wooden boards in order to achieve an overall positive result. In this case, sanding is also an integral part of the job. Then each leg must be screwed on. To do this, you will need two self-tapping screws, which are important to place diagonally from each other. The installation of a jumper will help ensure maximum stability. The distance between the floor and the lintels should be at least 10 cm. When everything is fixed, we begin to drill holes for self-tapping screws. Thus, we will fix the material so that it does not crack.

You now have a complete design. Naturally, it doesn't hurt to decorate it somehow. For example, start by painting. Of course, the first time there will be a hard pile. There is no need to be afraid, this is in the order of things. Grab the sandpaper again and start sanding the surface until it becomes smooth. Dust is definitely generated from this work. Accordingly, you will have to get rid of it. Then again we take up the varnish and cover the surface with it. It may be necessary to grind a third time, since the varnish will not lie flat the first time. In general, it all depends on the type of wood. So it is better not to neglect unnecessary sanding, but to provide your wooden product with a beautiful look. After completing all the listed necessary procedures, we get a beautiful handmade wooden table.

Let's say the option of manufacturing from a newer material, if you do not want visible traces of nails or planks to scare you with their variegation. The tabletop is made in a variety of shapes: rectangular, square and round. The result depends on your personal preference.

Leftover table

Sometimes it happens that at the time of construction or the next renovation of a summer house, extra boards of various breeds remain. Instead of throwing them away, it is better to use this leftover material for larger tasks. Make the same table. To do this, we select pine boards that will go to the frame (25 mm thick, 50 mm wide). For the legs, we will leave planks 15 mm thick and 50 mm wide. As for the size of the frame, everything here is purely at your discretion. This table is well suited for a veranda. And since this room is not large, it is advised to make it narrow (60 cm - width, 140 cm - length, height - 80 cm). Of course, if family members are not tall, it is perfectly acceptable to play with the size of the countertop.

Next, you need to assemble the frame and fix the boards, which act as legs. It is necessary to cut two boards 140 cm long. The width parameters are 60 cm. It is necessary to subtract twice the thickness of the used board - 5 cm. That is, the used blocks should be 55 cm. Now fold the frame using the self-tapping screws. How the bars were folded, you need to double-check everything. Noteworthy is the diagonal arrangement of the bars. If something does not converge, you should definitely transfer it, since in the future the very design of the tabletop will suffer.

Cut four planks and secure them inside the frame (80 cm long). Use four self-tapping screws for each board. The bottom shelf can be an additional element of the table top. To equip it, fasten the crossbar in the middle of the two legs. It will serve as a frame for the future shelf. In a similar way, work is done with other pairs of legs. In addition to giving the shelf more convenience, two jumpers significantly increase the level of rigidity of the structure as a whole. The fastening of the jumpers should be performed strictly at right angles (check with a special square).

Now the frame is ready, it remains to check it. If the structure is correctly made, the frame does not wobble. It remains to grind it. Next comes the assembly work. Perhaps you still have boards of different colors. Why not apply them in the right direction. For example, arrange the boards on the surface in such a way that they alternate in color.

The last stage of making the countertop involves fastening the boards with nails. We fix the shelf from below with nails or self-tapping screws. Again, you need to grind the assembled product. And in the end it remains to paint. But it so happens that you miscalculated with the choice of varnish or paint. And then what to do? If you want to change the look, you will have to re-sand the surface. Next, you need to re-start painting with a new color.

Glued table

The difference between the previous options lies in the fact that the legs of this design go with the letter "G". They are assembled from boards of the same width and thickness (20 mm thickness). Since the volume of the legs here is greater than the previous ones, more self-tapping screws (5 pieces) will be required accordingly. You need to drill holes with a diameter of 1-2 mm in advance (the hole should be less than the diameter of the self-tapping screw itself). The second time you need to drill a hole with a larger diameter. It is intended for a screw cap, which is then closed with a furniture plug. In other cases, the core is preferable to choose a furniture color.

Another great idea is furniture putty. Add wood dust to the mixture with which you will putty (take the rest of the sanding). When the putty is dry, the hole marks will be difficult to find.

Working on the legs

When assembling the legs, care must be taken to ensure that the angle is 90 degrees. If there is no template, use a regular bar. To join two boards, coat one and the other with wood glue. Install self-tapping screws in the right places. When the glue is dry, cover each leg with varnish. But before that, do not forget to polish.

Assembling the countertop

As the legs were made, the turn goes to the top of the table. The table top is made of boards of the same thickness. We choose the sizes we want. The boards can be of different widths. It is important to maintain the organic appearance. It is important that the side parts of the boards dock exactly with each other without gaps. We also grease the side of the boards with glue. Then we lay them evenly on the surface.

To avoid possible gaps, tighten the boards with clamps. Leave the tabletop overnight. As the day has passed, remove the clamps - the tabletop is already ready. As before, sand the surface and level the edges. Start trimming with a jigsaw or saw. Sometimes a grinder is also used, but in this way it is difficult to ensure the evenness of the line. And now the stages of grinding are over, and you get a completely flat, diligent-looking tabletop.

Glued board tabletop

Use the above method to make a round, oval, or any other shaped countertop. Of course, you can achieve the evenness of the cut tabletop if you draw in advance the lines along which its shape is cut. Frames can give an attractive look, and make them better with your own hands. Take a thin strip and sand it. Secure according to the perimeter of the countertop. Finishing nails and glue are suitable for fastening (first of all, you need to process the strips with glue). The glue will dry, and the plank will need to be sanded at the joints.

There is no table without legs

The tabletop is ready, which means that it remains to put the table on its feet. To attach the legs to the main body of the table, you will need a board frame. It is attached to the back with glue. But this is not enough, for it is necessary to secure it from above, using confirmations. First, you need to drill holes with a diameter for a hat on the tabletop. And then mask them like the previous holes. Now the table frame is firmly secured, begin attaching the legs. The docking point should be inside the frame. For fasteners, we use ordinary self-tapping screws. The table is ready!

Table and benches in the garden

When making a table and benches, boards of different sizes can be used. To connect the benches with a table, 16 cm studs are used (in addition to them, washers and nuts). Other connecting fasteners - no longer than 80 mm. So, each part of the garden table is installed in its right place. Then the through holes are drilled with a drill. And then, as you yourself already understood, the turn goes for the washers and nuts.

It is best to use a wrench when tightening nuts with washers. Thanks to this approach, in winter, you can easily unwind the structure and take it to a warehouse, garage, shed or any other place for storing such things.

Each board should be carefully sanded and trimmed. To hold together the three planks, which are intended for the seats, you need to cut short bars. We cut each of them at 45 degrees. The first step is to start assembling exactly that part of the structure that is located below. We take one large board (160 cm in size) and attach small blocks to it. At the time of joining, they must be fastened in the middle of one big one. Now we add legs to this structure (fasten with nails). Add short boards again. All these elements must be pulled together with studs, bolts and nuts. In this way, a support unit is obtained that secures the seat from below.

And it remains to attach the boards for the seats. By the way, if this structure is intended for the street, it is not at all necessary to make a narrow gap between the boards. At least 5 mm is enough. The planks are fixed to the sawn supports. We have formed two shops. It will not hurt to fix them with four boards 160 cm long. To fix all four legs, use 2 hairpins for each leg. Install them either at the same level or diagonally.

Kindergarten table

The principle of assembling the table is completely different from the previous options. The table top is held in place by planks that are cut at 52 degrees on the sides. The sawn supports must be positioned so that the legs for the table can enter between them. Secure them with finishing nails. If you do not want to allow good visibility of the caps, drive them deeper. Just coat the surface with special grease as a mask.

The legs of the table are not standard here, but look like crosses. To assemble them, take two boards and cross them in such a way that at the bottom the gap between the objects is 65 cm. In the middle of the boards, leave a mark for crossing the boards. The mark is drawn in the form of a square and half the thickness of the board itself. The same should be done on another board. We get two materials of the same plane. The joining process takes place with four nails. By analogy, the second pair of legs is made.

Now we have to assemble the table as a whole. First of all, the most important thing is to fix two pairs of legs in the main structure on which the benches are located. We place the legs parallel to each other in the middle. Naturally, they need to be fastened with hairpins so that they do not fall off in the future. The table top is fixed in a similar way. If the studs are screwed in, proceed with sanding and painting. Paint the design in any color that suits you. In addition to this design, those options are acceptable that imply a separate table from the benches. The assembly of the structure takes place in a similar way. Except for the seats, of course.

Making a wooden table with your own hands, as it turned out, is not so difficult. There are moments that require utmost attention to some things in the manufacture. If you follow the above guidelines, your table will be perfect. The choice of good materials and competent work will ensure the product has a long service life. The design will be able to impress with its functionality and decent appearance.

Video: DIY wooden table

Photo gallery: DIY table

A do-it-yourself kitchen table is both an opportunity to save money and a way to provide the kitchen with unique furniture that fits perfectly into the available space. However, it is important to correctly determine the dimensions and shape of the future structure.

How to make a wooden dining table

A solid wood table is beautiful, natural and, as a rule, expensive. But buying such a table is not necessary, because you can make it yourself with no less quality and for much less money.

So, to make a dining table with your own hands, you will need:

4 things. legs-balusters for the table, 73 cm high and not too thin;
For the table top: 4 dry edged wooden boards 1 m long (for a table 60 cm wide);

For the frame: 2 boards 80 cm long and 2 boards 40 cm long.

Prepare the tools: a plane, a grinder or a sander, a jigsaw for cutting boards, a circular saw, a drill (with an 8 mm drill), a screwdriver, sandpaper, self-tapping screws (30 mm), wood glue, dowels, clamps (preferably). And of course a pencil, tape measure, gloves and goggles come in handy.

To finish the table, you will need varnish, stain or paint along with a primer. First, let's make the countertop. To do this, you need to fit all 4 boards as accurately as possible to one length - 100 cm. If your boards were not sawn on a sawmill, then they must also be trimmed in width and thickness. Then they need to be carefully sanded with a plane. The better you sand the wood, the smoother the countertop will be. Finish the edges well so that the boards fit together as tightly as possible.

We will not connect the boards with self-tapping screws and nails, but with glue and dowels (chopiks). To do this, on the edges of all boards we make the same marks with a step of 10-15 cm and drill holes for the dowels with an 8 mm drill. Then we sand the edges and apply wood glue to them and into the holes made. Now we drive the chopiki processed with the same glue into the holes and, in turn, connect all 4 bars. Remove excess glue on the surface with sandpaper and grind it, as well as all the edges with a plane. At this stage, you can walk along the countertop with a metal sponge to give the wood texture.

So, the table top is ready. Now you need to fasten the legs and make a base for it.

To do this, you need to evenly fasten the balusters with short transverse boards with glue and screws. The glue dries for at least 12 hours.

We attach the legs to the long crossbars and drill holes in them in order to later install the tabletop.

After the glue in the frame dries up, you can start installing the countertop on it (frame).

If you want to make the table longer and wider, then you need to strengthen the table with two additional transverse strips, as shown in the photo.

So, the table is almost ready, it remains only to process it with varnish or stain or paint it, having previously primed it.

What color to paint the table? Start from personal preference and the color of the rest of the furniture. Below is the most versatile option - the table top and legs are stained.

You can watch the main mistakes of wood staining with your own hands in this video.

If you like gloss, then the surface of the table can be stained, and varnish on top (example in the photo below), or simply varnished.

You can paint the legs white, and cover the table top with a stain to get the design like in the next photo.

How to make a kitchen table from chipboard

A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of laminated chipboard is a practical and budget solution. Such countertops are covered with decorative plastic that is resistant to abrasion. In a typical version, the dimensions of the tabletop canvas are 3000x600x36 (26) mm, but today it will not be difficult to purchase a chipboard sheet, sawn to the required dimensions, or to agree in a furniture workshop to sell a suitable trim.

You will also need:

Connecting and end strips;
End edges;
Screeds.

Even if you purchase a worktop of suitable dimensions, you will need to additionally process the ends - this will make the result more attractive, as well as protect the base from moisture. For these purposes, you can use a special furniture edging based on polyvinyl chloride or glue an edging tape. The piping option is considered more practical for the dining table and suitable for DIYers.

For the kitchen table, you will also need the appropriate supports - you can buy the legs separately or give preference to a ready-made base. It all depends on what option your drawings provide. The most common option is round legs D \u003d 60 mm and 71 cm high. They can be collapsible, adjustable in height, and also differ in design - matte, painted, shiny.

In our case, it will be chrome-plated shiny rod legs with a diameter of 60 mm, as well as a table top made of white chipboard with a thickness of 36 mm and a white plastic mortise T-shaped edging with girths is matched to it.

So, how to make a dining table with a chipboard top:

The material is marked according to the drawing. At the corners, the curvatures must have a radius of 60 mm.

The table top is shaped with a jigsaw.

A saw with reversible teeth should be used, otherwise the plastic coating may chip. First, the corner of the chipboard is cut off with a jigsaw with a margin of 2 mm, and then it is finally rounded off with a grinder.

A groove is milled for the furniture edge.

The edging is stuffed. Before this, the ends of the product must be covered with silicone sealant. The sealant is applied both to the edging and to the top edge of the countertop. A rubber mallet is used to fill the edge. Then the excess sealant is removed.

Legs are attached. To do this, a pencil is marked on the back of the tabletop. In most cases, the legs are placed 100 mm from the edge.

For fastening the holders, self-tapping screws with a countersunk head about 20 mm long are used. After that, the legs are put on the holders and fixed with a hex wrench - that's it, your new table is ready.

How to correctly determine the dimensions

According to the principles described above, tables can be made larger or smaller in length and width. How to choose the best size for your family?

If we are talking about a standard kitchen with dimensions from 6 to 8 squares, then the drawings will show a typical structure with a height of 750 mm and a perimeter of 800 * 500 ... 1200 * 600 mm.

A do-it-yourself dining table should be designed for a certain number of people. Usually it corresponds to the number of tenants - 3-9, but a couple of free places are still added for guests. For large companies, it will be a good solution.

Calculations are carried out as follows: the number of persons is multiplied by 60 ("working" perimeter per person). As for the width of the countertop, here we follow the recommendations of experts - its optimal values \u200b\u200bare from 800 to 1100 mm. Narrow tables are difficult to serve, and wide tables are inconvenient for seated ones.

If you decide to make the kitchen table with your own hands oval (round), then you will have to calculate the circumference - diameter * 3.14.

Form selection rules

The shape of the kitchen table plays a significant role in the perception of space. Universal design - rectangle or square with right angles. It is balanced and can be installed close to a wall or in the center of a room, saving space.

Oval models are also quite comfortable and beautiful, but they do not differ in their large capacity - the largest product will fit no more than 8 people. In addition, they require large areas - more than 8 sq. meters, because you can't put them against the wall.

It can also be called a versatile and traditional option, suitable for both very and large kitchens. But it has less capacity than a rectangular table.

The best option is a rectangular table with rounded corners. We have already described how to make just such a chipboard table with our own hands.

Furniture care rules

After the dining table is made, you will need to take care of the long operational period of the product.

So, furniture made of wood, polished and lacquered, needs careful maintenance, since it can easily be scratched. In addition, traces of contact with hot are possible here. A universal polishing compound is selected as a basic wood care.

If we are talking about a countertop made of MDF or chipboard with a plastic coating, then caring for it is not difficult and consists in regular washing with detergents.

Do not forget that the kitchen furniture must be moved away from the heaters and from the walls bordering the street. Direct sunlight will also be harmful to wooden furniture.

It is no secret that furniture is used in the country, which has served its term in an apartment. The table is no exception. However, in suburban conditions, the furniture that served well at home may not always fulfill its purpose. We are talking about modern tables, made mainly of laminated chipboard. Such tables are not suitable for a gazebo, veranda, garden, and in a house with high humidity in the off-season, their service life is limited. In such conditions, a wooden table is necessary, but a wooden table is not a cheap pleasure. The solution to the problem is to make a table with your own hands. This is easy enough. In addition, this will significantly save money, including on delivery.

The simplest table design

The simplest table design is shown in the photo below. At the same time, such a design is the least expensive both in terms of materials and manufacturing forces.

Fig. 1.

Optimal table dimensions

One of the advantages of making a table for a summer residence with your own hands is that the table can be made of any size. Thus, the table can be easily adjusted to the dimensions of the gazebo, veranda or kitchen.

To make it easier to navigate in size, I will give a dimensional grid, which is most often used in the manufacture of tables. Dimensioning is based on the size of the countertop.

60x90 cm. A table with such dimensions is optimal for 3 people. It is convenient to dine at such a table, drink tea, etc. Due to its size, it will fit well into any small space.
80x120 cm. 4 - 6 people can sit comfortably at this table. Usually a table with this size is appropriate for a large kitchen or veranda.
More than 120 cm. Tables of this size are good for feasts. In the conditions of a summer residence and a limited space of a country house, such a table is mainly installed in a gazebo or under a canopy in the open air.

Naturally, when making a table with your own hands, the size can be made arbitrary, however, to make it comfortable at the table, you should adhere to the recommendations given above.

Manufacturing procedure and table drawing

A drawing of the table is shown in the figure below.

Fig. 2.

The legs for the table are made of a wooden bar with a cross section of 40x40 mm and a length of 70 cm. If you want to decorate the table, you can use balusters as legs. They are carved and will make the table design more interesting.

The support for the tabletop can be made from a board with a section of 25x150 mm by sawing it lengthwise into two halves. For support, you need 2 boards 650 mm long and 2 boards 1050 mm long.

With the countertop, everything is much more interesting. The countertop can be made in a variety of ways. The easiest option is to purchase a furniture board of the required size. It can be purchased in building materials hypermarkets.

Fig. 3.

Following this path, it should be remembered that a furniture board is made by gluing small pieces of boards, and with constant exposure to atmospheric precipitation, it will quickly become unusable. Therefore, a table with a furniture board top must be varnished or painted to protect it from moisture.

Another option is a plank tabletop. The boards can be used in any size. For example, with a section of 25x100 mm. This is a simple and cheap countertop option. This option is devoid of the disadvantages that are inherent in a furniture board.

Fig. 4.

However, without special equipment, it will hardly be possible to fit the boards tightly. Therefore, the table top will have gaps between the boards. This looks good for a garden table. But not very practical.

You can get rid of the gap mentioned above by using an unusual, grooved board. It will cost a little more, but you will get a smooth, even tabletop.

Fig. 5.

Euro floor boards can be used as grooved boards. They are easier to find in the store. It is only important not to forget to stitch them from the wrong side.

Assembling the table

Once all the elements of the table are ready, you can start assembling the table. The assembly of the table is carried out in a specific order.

First, the support for the table top is assembled and the legs are fixed to it. This is the most difficult part in assembling the table. As described earlier, the worktop support consists of 4 planks. They need to be connected together. This can be done in several ways.

The photo below shows how to assemble a tabletop support and fix a leg to it using a special tie.

Fig. 6.

This method is the perfect solution, except for that fact. Getting a special screed can be tricky.

Another way is to tighten the entire structure with a piece of wood.

Fig. 7.

Using this method, you need to pay attention to the fact that the bar must be sawed off at an angle of strictly 45 degrees. Otherwise, the table will not be rectangular.

In my opinion, the simplest and most affordable option for assembling a leg and support for a tabletop is the use of a metal general construction corner 50x50 mm in size. You can buy it in any store, and it has the correct geometric shape.

The last step in assembling a table is the installation of the table top. Depending on the type of tabletop, it can be fixed in different ways. The furniture board can be fixed with corners or with glue. Separate boards with screws and glue.

Fig. 8.

As you can already understand, making a table for a summer residence or at home with your own hands is quite simple. It's important to get creative. Such a table can be decorated with any paintwork. A handmade wooden table will delight you every day and will last for many years.

Wooden tables and decoration ideas

Fig. 9.

Fig. 10.

Fig. 11.

Fig. 12.

A do-it-yourself table may well be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in the carpentry craft. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is simple enough and understandable.

For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made model of a table for a kitchen that is too small in size. Buying custom-made furniture made of solid wood is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up the tools and design your own "work" yourself, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.

In addition, there is often a desire to show your creativity in a summer residence, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip a veranda or a gazebo in a suburban area. If you have the right materials and tools at hand, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a finished project, and then get to work.

To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.

Tools for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required to make any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use the usual, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:

The plane with which the wood is leveled and the parts are driven to the desired size.
Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
Saws of various sizes and modifications with which to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
Screwdriwer set.
Clamps for temporary fixing of glued parts.
Sandpaper for sanding.

Many of the instruments can be replaced with more modern and convenient instruments:

The electric jigsaw will do all the work that the various saws mentioned above have previously been used for.

Jigsaw rating

The sander will help to make the surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious procedure of manual sanding.

Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help to round off sharp corners, drill curly grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need and have some experience, you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.

will significantly speed up the work, since you will not have to spend several minutes tightening each self-tapping screw. In addition, during certain operations, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).

The building level will help make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.

To prevent the finished furniture from being "skewed", the assembly is controlled by the level

An easy-to-manufacture table for a summer cottage

To make such a country table is within the power of everyone

Necessary materials

For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680 × 850 mm, not too many wooden blanks will be required. You need to prepare the following:

Bar, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
Joiner's glue.
Board, size:

1680 × 100 × 25 mm - 4 pcs. (longitudinal elements of the frame);
850 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (transverse parts of the frame);
1580 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (facing boards for side frame elements);
950 × 100 × 25 mm - 17 pcs. (boards for countertops).

All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If you plan to "darken" the wood, then it is covered with a stain, and for the appearance of the textured pattern, they are carefully passed from above with a grinder. Fine-grit sandpaper will remove the soaked raised areas of the wood grain, making them lighter than the indentations.

Mounting a garden table

When all the parts for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to the assembly.

Frame or "box" of the table

The first step is the details of the countertop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680 × 100 × 25 mm and two end boards 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. On the end boards, the layout of the inner and outer boards is marked. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. It is imperative to accurately mark the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end board, especially if the connection will take place by the tapping method.

The connection of the elements can be done in different ways:

Connection with a choice of "quarter" and using metal corners

- using a steel angle - this is the easiest and most reliable way;

- by the cut-in method - this is a more complex method, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

Several types of tongue and groove connection

- "groove-thorn" shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for novice craftsmen who have no experience;

- the connection with dowels is shown in f) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be joined.

All connections are usually made with glue. The only exception is the butt joint of the parts with a metal corner.
The frame must have perfectly adjusted right angles, therefore, after connecting all the elements, it is necessary to carry out control using a building angle and measuring and comparing the length of the diagonals.
If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.

When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, facing boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are fixed to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their attachment also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. Facing boards are also glued and fixed with self-tapping screws, the caps of which should be sunk in the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

The next stage is the transverse sheathing of the table top with 950 × 100 × 25 mm boards. The place of their fastening must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The overhang of the worktop above the frame must be 25 mm on all four sides.

Further, each of the boards are fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the extreme boards are also fixed to the end sides. In order for the caps of the self-tapping screws to be recessed, grooves with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the boards to a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these grooves, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking of the boards during installation work, through holes must be drilled.

After that, legs from a bar with a section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed to the edges of the longitudinal boards, they must exactly match the width of the table top.

The next step is to install the legs

The legs can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the junction. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and the nuts are tightened on them from the inside of the frame with a wrench.
The final stage of manufacturing is the sealing of the caps of self-tapping screws with a mixture made of carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. This homemade putty is used to fill the grooves above the caps and level them well. After the glue dries, the entire worktop, and especially the places covered with glue "plugs", must be well sanded.

The table can then be coated with varnish or water-based paint. After waiting for the decorating or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in a summer cottage, on a veranda or terrace in a recreation area.

If desired, it will be easy to make a bench or a set for a table.

Small folding table for the kitchen

Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally touched, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
The presence of a double-sided roomy bedside table will allow you to store various little things and small toys in it.
The table is equipped with a table top that is large enough for a child, sitting at it, to do their homework.
In addition, there is space on the tabletop for a laptop or books necessary for study.
If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board by placing a soft cloth on its surface.

Considering all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.

Find out how and also check out several models with detailed instructions in a special article on our portal.

Required materials and parts for a folding table

To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the parts that make up it. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:

Table layout with the numbers of assembly parts (clickable illustration - click to enlarge)

Part No. in the drawing	the name of detail	Quantity, pcs.	Part size, mm	Production material, thickness, mm
1	Folding part of the table top.	1	600 × 600
2	Fixed table top.	1	600 × 475	Multi-layer plywood 25 mm thick
3		2	530 × 30
4		2	120 × 30	Plywood 18 mm thick
5	The upper end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg.	1	122 × 30	Plywood 18 mm thick
6	Slot element for leg movement on folding table top.	2	530 × 20	Plywood 18 mm thick
7	Slot element for the movement of the leg on the tabletop of the cabinet.	2	120 × 20	Plywood 18 mm thick
8	The bottom end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg.	1	122 × 20	Plywood 18 mm thick
9	Side walls of the table unit.	2	720 × 520	MDF 19 mm
10	Horizontal details of the curbstone forming shelves.	3	520 × 312	MDF 19 mm
11	The lower vertical part of the cabinet's inner partition.	1	418 × 312	MDF 19 mm
12	The upper vertical part of the cabinet's inner partition.	1	312 × 184	MDF 19 mm
13	The middle horizontal part of the curbstone.	1	310 × 250	MDF 19 mm
14	Cabinet door.	1	477 × 346	MDF 19 mm
15	Cabinet shelf.	1	310 × 250	MDF 19 mm
16	The front panel of the cabinet drawer.	1	346 × 209	MDF 19 mm
17	Drawer front panel (located behind the front panel).	1	418 × 312	MDF 19 mm
18	Drawer side panels.	2	341 × 250	MDF 19 mm
19	Drawer back panel.	1	272 × 120	MDF 19 mm
20	Drawer bottom panel.	1	341 × 272	MDF 19 mm
	Drawer handles and cabinet doors.	2	Ø 30 mm	Wood
	Upper leg element.	1	80 × 80 × 18	Plywood 18 mm thick
	Mobile table leg.	1	Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702	Wood
	Furniture hinges for joining two parts of a worktop.	2	Ø 50 mm	Metal
	Furniture hinges for the door.	2	The size depends on the shape.	Metal
	Bottom end panels that cover the gap under the cabinet.	2	20 × 300 × 5	Plywood 5 mm

The figures show a drawing of the table, on which you can rely in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.

The main dimensions of the table (clickable illustration - click to enlarge) Separate table nodes - a drawer and a guide channel for the movement of the leg (clickable illustration - click to enlarge)

For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, you will need modern electrical tools that can bring the workpieces to professional perfection.

Find out how to do with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.

Installation of a folding table-pedestal

It is worth starting making a table with its most important and largest part - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table may well serve as an ordinary compact cabinet.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	The first step from plywood with a thickness of 25 mm, using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut out blanks for the tabletop, measuring 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm.
	Further, on the larger panel, marking is carried out - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done with a jigsaw or circular saw by attaching the appropriate compass attachment to it.
	Further, a cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling device, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, if desired, even or rounded.
	The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will be joined to the second part of the tabletop even. Then its edges are processed in the same way.
	In the next step, the two processed parts of the tabletop are placed on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made for the installation of furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the table top. Furniture hinges can be of different shapes, so they should be laid in the marked place and outlined with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special curly grooves are arranged in the plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. The hinges are fixed into the finished holes with self-tapping screws.
	After hingeing the two parts of the table top, in the middle of the panels, on their bottom side, a marking is made to fix the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the joint between the two parts of the table top. For the manufacture of parts, plywood is taken with a thickness of 18 mm. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed by a router: 530 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 30 mm -1 pcs., 120 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 20 mm -1 pcs. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on both sides, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed over the lower rails of the guides, are cut from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These cuts are necessary so that their corners do not interfere with the movement of the leg along the formed channel. Then, parts are glued to the lined section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the tabletop. First, they are fixed with glue, and then the longest strips with a size of 530 × 20 mm are screwed on with self-tapping screws, then a piece of 122 × 20 mm overlaps the channel. On top of the long and short fixed rails, the second ones are glued, having the same length, but greater width - they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the tabletop and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the screwing points of the self-tapping screws so that the upper ones do not bump into those that fix the lower rails. In the same way, four parts are fixed on the rectangular part of the tabletop. All elements must be processed to smoothness and ideally evenly fixed to each other, otherwise the leg will run into obstacles and jam when moving.
	The leg is usually made on a lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from the master or purchase it ready-made. As a last resort, you can make it square by processing the timber of the desired height until smooth. Then, on the upper end part of the leg, using a dowel and glue, a square guide plate made of plywood with dimensions of 80 × 80 × 18 mm is fixed exactly in the center.
	Further, after the glue dries, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, you can carry out minor adjustments and improvements.
	The finished tabletop is painted or coated with water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured pattern of plywood. After that, the finished tabletop is laid aside and proceeds to the manufacture of the cabinet.
	The elements of the curbstone do not have complex configurations, therefore, in order to make them, it is enough on the MDF panel or thick plywood to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table, and carefully cut them using a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be machined to smoothness with a router, otherwise they will look sloppy.
	If you plan to paste over the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge band, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the curbstone door panel is to make curly grooves into which the furniture hinges will be installed and fixed. The holes are made in the same way as in the worktop using a router, but in this case the router can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be positioned at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before starting drilling, it is imperative to carry out a thorough marking. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet, on which the door will be fixed. Then the door wall is joined together to check the correct installation and to mark the holes for the screws.
	In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. For this, stepping back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a convenient height position, mark a point through which a through hole is drilled to fix the handle.
	All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and a brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically pleasing, but also protect the material from the negative influence of a specific kitchen humid environment.
	Next, you can proceed to the assembly of the bedside table. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be easily replaced with improvised devices. For example, assembly can be carried out on a flat table, and for ease of installation, the cabinet is additionally installed on flat bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the caps of the screws after assembly will have to be masked with various compounds. The build process is as follows: - Place the bottom panel on the supports. - One of the side panels is set on it by level and with the help of a building angle, and its location is marked with a pencil. - At the same time, the location of the fastening parts is outlined on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing center wall. - Then, holes are drilled at the marked points of the bottom and end faces of the side panels for installing the dowels. - After that, before gluing the parts, the places for installing the shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, in the marked places, shelf brackets are mounted, for which holes are also drilled. - Further, dowels greased with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - In the same way, non-removable lintel shelves are mounted, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before continuing to work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure is well dried. To make the cabinet more rigid, it is laid on its side and squeezed with clamps for the duration of drying.
	While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and in the marked places, holes are drilled in their end to install the fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the dowels are coated with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sidewalls to the bottom.
	The sidewalls are twisted between themselves using self-tapping screws, the caps of which are recommended to be sunk into the wood, and the holes to be sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another option for fastening can be furniture corners, which are screwed to the sidewalls with self-tapping screws from the inside. You will need two corners on each side.
	When assembling a box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a building corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise a skew may form.
	If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the box, then first on the sides of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, a line is drawn along which the guides will be fixed.
	Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the drawer. It is screwed on from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. It is recommended to use glue in addition to self-tapping screws for fixing the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are pulled together with four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, a hole is drilled in the center of the facade panel through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the combination of the cabinet and the tabletop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then fix it with self-tapping screws that are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But, first, the countertop must be correctly positioned. The part of the channel located on the stationary installed panel of the tabletop should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the leg towards the table. The table top should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg - by 120 mm.
	Having fixed the tabletop, proceed to the final installation and screwing the cabinet doors onto the screws. Then the drawer is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelf supports.
	When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, for its decoration, you can choose other colors that will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room.
	In the open state, the table also does not take up much space and will fit perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Due to its "light" design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the table top makes it safe for children. Therefore, this version of the table can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or there is simply a great desire to prove yourself in the carpentry, then you should not postpone making it yourself. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting version of the round table is offered, which may well serve both at home and on the site.

Video: example of assembling a round table

And one more idea for a kitchen table, which, if not true, can be realized independently by a skilled owner: