When to transplant bushes. How to transplant adult bushes

This procedure is sometimes carried out by gardeners at their sites. There are many reasons to transplant already formed plants to a new place: these are, for example, soil conditions (often together with climate peculiarities). It happens that the place where the shrub grew for several years began to be flooded with melt or rain water, or the shrub suddenly suddenly froze every year. Or the conditions are purely domestic, when, for example, a neighbor built a fence, and now your bush is in the shade, or the bird cherry tree has grown so much that the currant bush growing nearby does not have enough space.

Transplanting currant bush. © Marie

One way or another, we are faced with the task of transplanting shrubs to a new place. And at the same time, you need to do this so that after the transplant, the bush does not take root for too long and quickly proclaims again.

In appearance, everything seems trivial and simple: you need to dig a bush and re-plant, however, in fact, far from it is not so. Often, shrubs after such a transplant simply die or get sick and take root for a very long time.

In order for everything to go smoothly, we will give in this article general recommendations for transplanting, give some important tips, and then we will analyze the transplantation scheme for each group of shrubs.

The choice of place. It needs to be picked up even before you start the transplant. This time, try to choose the most suitable place, not flooded with melt or rain water, not in dense shade, with nutritious and loose soil. Be sure to choose a place based on the characteristics of the culture. Let’s say blueberries love acidic and moist soil, while currants love neutral and moderately moist soil, and so on.

Prepare the landing pit. Of course, it is difficult to calculate what it should be when the roots of the bush are still in the soil, but you can dig a bigger hole, say one meter wide and depth. Such a hole will fit the root system of most shrubs. And if the roots are still cramped, then the hole can be quickly expanded, it will still be faster than digging a hole when the roots of the bush are already taken out of the soil.

When digging up a bush, do not start digging out the roots directly from the trunk (s), but first dig around the perimeter (carefully, taking care not to damage the roots). Decide on the area of \u200b\u200btheir occurrence and, digging in the lateral roots, slowly approach the center of the bush. After that, you can simply pry the bush with a shovel and take it out of the soil.

We dig a bush. © Dorling Kindersley

Digging and replanting any shrub, try to keep maximum roots intact and leave as much soil as possible on them. To shake off the soil, and even more so to wash the roots with water, there is no need. It can even be dangerous, especially if it is hot outside.

After digging and planting any shrub in a new place, he needs to be provided during the season constant wateringso that the soil does not dry out. At the same time, you should not turn the soil into a swamp, you just need to keep the soil moist. Watering can be combined with top dressingapplying spring in a tablespoon of nitroammophoski, in the middle of summer - in a teaspoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate, and in autumn it is useful to mulch the surface of the soil in the near-chest zone with wood ash (200-250 g per plant). Ash can be applied to any shrubs except blueberries, because ash can deoxidize the soil.

Transplant time. For these purposes, it is better to choose late autumn or early spring, but if you replant very large shrubs, then this can be done in winter. In the summer, replanting plants even with a lump of land is very risky, especially if you do not have the opportunity to provide the bush after planting with enough moisture and nutrition. Speaking of nutrition: those fertilizers that we cited in the example (with the exception of ash) are best applied in the form dissolved in water.

Try to transplant shrubs as quickly as possible. Remember: the faster the bush reappears in the soil, the greater the chance of its quick survival in a new place. Usually, the main time is spent digging up a bush, while planting is carried out, as a rule, in a matter of minutes. This must be taken into account and time allocated correctly.

We take out a bush with a lump of earth. © Dorling Kindersley We move the bush with a lump of earth to a new place. © Dorling Kindersley We plant the transplanted bush in the planting pit. © Dorling Kindersley

How to transplant bushes of currant, gooseberry, honeysuckle, ierga, viburnum, blueberry and other similar crops

So, you need to transplant a bush of one of these species. Begin by choosing the optimal time for a transplant. We have already indicated the dates, however, they may depend on your climatic region. For example, in the northern regions, the best time for replanting shrubs is spring. In no case should you delay the transplant: as soon as the snow melts, go to the site and transplant so that the bush opens its buds, waking up, in a new place. So the chances of success of your business increase many times. It is advisable to complete the transplant before the end of March, because during this period active sap flow in plants already begins. If you feel that you are not in time, then do not take risks, it is better to postpone the transplant until late autumn, that is, until mid-November.

As we have already indicated, shrubs can be replanted in the summer. This is risky, but if you can keep the maximum roots intact, do not destroy the lump of land and can provide the bush with moisture and nutrition in the future, then you can take a chance.

It will be easiest to dig out honeysuckle, blueberries and currants, and more difficultly, gooseberries (because of its thorns), but the hardest to dig up a igra and viburnum. If the bush of viburnum is more than five years old, and the bush of iviri is more than seven, then it will be very difficult for you, since the root system of these plants is quite strong and penetrates to great depths. Here you can dig holes in width and meter, but in depth they are better to do a meter and a half.

All these plants love open and well-lit areas and moderate soil moisture. Blueberry prefers the soil more moist and acidic, it must be borne in mind that viburnum is tolerant of acid in the soil, but loves areas where there is more moisture.

Prepare the soil for planting in advance, dig on a full bayonet of shovels, remove weeds. It is advisable to fertilize the soil, add 4-5 kg \u200b\u200bof well-rotted manure and 250-300 g of wood ash (only not for blueberries), you can add a tablespoon of nitroammophoska per square meter. For blueberries, the soil should be mixed with acid peat in equal parts, or even better, dig a hole, line it with plastic wrap from the inside, fill it with acid peat and plant a bush of blueberries in it.

When transplanting several bushes of these plants, try to place them so that the distance between them is equal to two meters, and if the bushes are very sprawling, then three (in the case of irga and 3.5 meters is the norm).

Before digging, prepare a landing hole: pour claydite or broken brick into its base with a layer of a couple of centimeters, put a couple of shovels of the nutrient mixture on top, which can be prepared by mixing 5-6 kg of fertile soil, 2-3 kg of humus, 15-20 g of potassium sulfate and 90-100 g of superphosphate. Then well pour a hole, and it will be ready for planting shrubs in it. By the way, when preparing a hole for planting red currants, a couple of kilograms of river sand can be added to the mixture.

Blueberry bush after transplantation. © joshuaraineyphotography

The hole is ready, you can now proceed to move the bush to a new place. By the way, about the transfer: if the desired and final places are far from each other, it is advisable to stock up with a tarp so that the bush can be conveniently moved, and not drag it by the shoots, risking breaking them (especially with red currants).

Before digging, carry out a revision of the ground part: remove, clipping on the ring, all old shoots that no longer bear fruit, if any, are dried up, and shorten the young growth by half.

Next, as we already advised, dig a bush around. With currants and gooseberries, you can deviate 30 centimeters from the base, 20 cm with honeysuckle and blueberries, a little more with 35 ryegas and viburnum. Having retreated the required distance, you must carefully and gradually deepen the bayonet shovel bayonet one and a half to two, after digging up the plant from all sides and slowly moving to the center, try to extract it from the soil. If several powerful and long lateral roots fall in the way, then it is quite possible to cut them.

Remember that all the described crops have very fragile shoots that easily come off the roots, so when digging a plant from the soil, do not pull the shoots, try to pick up the roots with a shovel and pull them already.

As soon as the bush is removed from the soil, you need to act without delay, otherwise the roots may dry out. You should moisten the soil in the planting hole by pouring three or four buckets of water and establish roots on this nutritious slurry. When planting, we strongly recommend placing bushes relative to the cardinal points as they grew before. This is easy to understand: the shoots on the south side are usually darker, as if with a tan, and on the north side it is lighter (paler).

It is necessary to place the bush in a hole so that it is in the center, so that the roots are evenly distributed throughout the hole, do not bulge up, do not break, and so that the root neck is immersed in the soil for a couple of centimeters. After planting, it remains to compact the soil, pour it with a pair of buckets of water and mulch with humus a layer of a couple of centimeters.

How to transplant a bush of grapes, actinidia, lemongrass and other vines

Grapes and creepers are best transplanted in the fall. The signal to the beginning of the transplant is usually the complete fall of the foliage. This means that the plant has entered a dormant stage. The main thing here is to have time to transplant the plant to a new place at least a week before the start of severe frosts, and of course, to prevent damage to the root system. In the event that winter was early and you did not have time to transplant grapes and vines, then it is quite possible to wait until spring. The main thing here is to have time to finish the transplant ten days before the buds open.

The transplantation of grapes and vines, as well as currant bushes, usually begins with the preparation of a hole for planting, as a hole for currants and crops similar to it. When the landing hole is ready, you can begin to prepare the plants for digging. To do this, the vines and grapes, about three days before transplanting, stop watering, then the grapes will need to leave a couple of sleeves with young vines, a year or two. In this case, the topmost shoots need to be cut into two or three eyes, and all sections should be covered with garden var. Only after that the grape bush can be dug up, stepping back from the center 45-55 cm, and taken out of the soil by the type of excavation of the currant bush.

As for the vines, they can leave two - three of the youngest shoots, located as well as possible, the rest is quite acceptable to remove. Digging, you can move away from the center, in the case of vines, by 35-40 cm, the rest of all the actions are exactly the same.

In the future, after planting grapes and lianas, after compaction of the soil, watering and mulching, it is necessary to remove all flowers at the first flowering to give the plants full development in a new place. For the next season, it is necessary to remove part of the inflorescences: about half of the grapes, and one third of the vines. Do not forget to provide plants with sufficient moisture and nutrition during this period.

Young bush of grapes. © Dave

How to transplant a bush of raspberries, blackberries, blackberries and similar crops

Raspberry, blackberry and blackberry bushes are best tolerated if transplanted in the fall. Especially autumn transplantation is favorable for the southern regions and central Russia; in colder regions, it is better to transplant these plants in spring.

Both raspberries, blackberries and hedgehogs are photophilous plants, so a new place for them must be open and well lit. Tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage are considered excellent predecessors for raspberries, blackberries and ezemalin. It is not advisable to plant crops in the place where cultures from the same family grew: they may have common diseases that have accumulated over the years of their cultivation.

The soil for raspberries and blackberries needs to be well prepared, dug up with a full bayonet of shovels, introduced into a bucket of humus or well-rotted manure, as well as a tablespoon of nitroammophoska and 300 g of wood ash per square meter. Ezemalin also requires thorough disposal of weeds, in particular from wheatgrass on the site.

The diameter of the landing pit for raspberries should be 55-60 cm wide and 45-50 cm deep, for blackberries - 40-50 cm wide and 30-40 cm deep, for blackberries - 35-40 cm wide and 45-50 cm deep. Distance between the pits, when transplanting several raspberry plants, it should be 45-55 cm, blackberries - 50-60 cm, blackberries - 55-65 cm.

If you have a choice, then for transplantation, use the most powerful, well-developed plants with a stem diameter of at least a centimeter. It is advisable to cut the shoots about a meter from the surface of the soil, and at the seminal can be 50 cm.

When digging plants, you need to deviate from the base of raspberries 35–40 cm, blackberries 30–35 cm, and raspberries 40–45 cm. Next, digging according to the previous scheme, but with one caveat: if the roots are bare when digging, then they must be dipped before planting into the clay talker. When planting, try not to deepen the plants, especially blackberries, if the root neck is deepened deeply, a large amount of root shoots will be formed, so it is better to place the seedling so that the root neck is exactly at the soil level. After planting, you need to water the soil by pouring 2-3 buckets of water, then mulch it with humus, a layer of a couple of centimeters.

These are simple tricks for transplanting shrubs to a new place, using which you will get a good result in the form of a plant that has come to life in a new area, gaining strength and actively bearing fruit over time.

In conclusion, literally i want to say a few words about strawberries. I often hear the question - is it possible to transplant garden strawberries during flowering. We answer, it is possible to do this, but first it is advisable to cut off all the flowers so that after transplanting the plant gives energy to restore the lost parts of the root system and does not waste energy on the formation of the crop.

If you have any questions, we will be happy to answer them in the comments.

Tell me, please, when is it better to transplant the spirea bushes to gray Grefshame? Two years ago, planted tiny seedlings with a closed root system and missed the spot. They grow on a more illuminated and warmer part of the garden, next to apple trees and lilacs, buds have already appeared. Now the bushes have already grown to 60 cm and it has become obvious that they need to be replanted, and I'm afraid to ruin them with an untimely transplant. And another question about spirea. The same spirea, only a bush 4-5 year old. Can it be transplanted painlessly or only by cutting it off and with a high risk of loss?

I obviously delayed the answer, but, on the other hand, my answer in May just demonstrates that spirea is a very easy-to-care culture. She is not afraid of transplantation at any age, and with little tricks, she can be transplanted even in the summer.
Strict connoisseurs of the plant world from post to post rewrite recommendations: you can transplant a spirae in the early spring before buds open or late in the fall after leaf fall. I admire such experts: they manage to do everything in time in the garden and kitchen garden on time. But what about those summer residents who can leave for their garden only at the end of April, or even on May holidays, and in the fall they finish the season not at the end of October, but at the beginning of September? Is it really possible to deprive oneself of the joy of having in the garden a variety of not only fruit trees, but also beautiful shrubs, bright flowers?
No way !!! In practice (I rarely have time to do all the work in the best time!) I was convinced: it is possible to transplant adult bushes of decorative crops with leaves and even flowers. If necessary, then it is necessary!
It is important to observe only a few rules.
First, choose the right place for spirea. Almost all species and varieties love a sunny place, although Grefsheim and other species that bloom in spring can also tolerate light partial shade from large trees (it also appears when these spirea have already faded away).
Secondly, clearly mark the landing site, given the diameter and height this or that species or variety reaches. SpireaGrefsheim by 10 years reaches a diameter of 2 m, andLittle Princess only 70-80 cm.
Thirdly, prepare the soil and planting pits at least 3-4 days before planting. Here it must be taken into account that heavy soils will have to be loosened with sand and peat, while light soils will be “heavier" by adding moisture-retaining materials, for example, crumbly clay. Acidic soils need to be made, but not zealous, because Billard's spirea and all its hybrids grow poorly on calcareous soils. The heavier the soil, the larger the drainage layer should be: from 5 cm on the lungs to 20 cm on clay.
For planting, you need to dig a pit about a third more than the earthen lump of the transplanted plant. But when planting, you need to take into account that the root neck should be at the same level as in the old place.
It is very important to transplant an adult plant in cloudy weather and stock up on an old sheet.
The algorithm of work is as follows:
1. The pit is dug up and banned with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer in 3-4 days.
2. Toward evening, we pour water into the pit, at the same time we water the plant, which we will transplant.
3. Dig a plant, stepping back from the root neck 15-20 cm around the perimeter. Carefully cut the roots and take them out together with an earthen lump. If the bush is large, then immediately lay it on a piece of film or fabric and transfer to the landing pit.
4. Lower the seedling into the planting pit and control the level of the root neck. If necessary, add soil under the roots, or just select the ground from the bottom of the pit.
5. We fill the landing pit with garden soil, slightly trampling the ground. Water the plant with water with the addition of root. Mulch the near-stem circle with a thick layer of peat or humus (5-7 cm).
6. We install around the perimeter of the bush 3-4 pegs the height of the bush itself.
7. We wet an old sheet or a large piece of gauze in water, squeeze it a little and cover the bush completely, pulling it on pegs. We fix the fabric near the ground so that it does not blow off by the wind.
8. For 3-4 days daily, and in hot dry weather 2-3 times a day, moisten with water.
9. Then in the evening we remove the fabric and let the spirae grow freely. True, it will be necessary to water regularly for a month, because the plant has damaged roots and cannot provide the plant with moisture completely.
If you transplant spiraea during the flowering period, it is better to cut off the inflorescences. In summer flowering this technique will cause repeated flowering, and in spring flowering more abundant flowering next spring.

September is the best time for planting and replanting shrubs and trees. Shrubs and trees are not the kind of plants that you can transplant at any time you like. These plants must first form a young growth well. Young growth should ripen and only after the leaves ripen and get stronger, can a transplant be made.

If you are lovingly replanting some plant of your own, and want it to be guaranteed to take root, then you need to prepare it for transplanting in advance. It is advisable, especially for plants that are difficult to transplant, to start digging a lump in advance, already in the middle of summer. To do this, find out where the root neck is located - the place where the roots begin. It often happens that the plant is planted deep, and when you start to dig it, the depth of the bayonet bayonet is not enough, and you can injure the root system. So already in the middle of summer it is necessary to dig a plant without digging. Those. you need to expose the root neck and make a shovel sawed-off edge along the diameter of the coma. Roots prune and leave the plant in place without digging! You can move the lump a little, but in no case take it off the ground. After this, the plant is abundantly watered with water and covered with soil.

During the summer, such a plant will grow safely, and pruned roots that could go in different directions begin to give an additional root system to the center of the plant. Thanks to this, when digging, you will get a good root ball, with which you will transplant the plant.

In autumn, you just need to clean the root of the neck of the plant, thoroughly shed the earthen lump, and then proceed to dig the plant along the same path along which you dug it during the summer.

In order to transport the plant, it is most convenient to use some dense fabric. For this, old gunny bags are quite suitable. So, prepare the bag, the ropes that you need to tie the plant, and only when everything is prepared, start digging the plant. Using the existing notched contour, make the notch even deeper. If you feel that the root system has gone too deep, you can dig up the earth and expose the future lump so as to injure the root system as little as possible. Slowly stagger the tree and stick the shovel as deep as possible at an angle to the center. Then lift the tree with a lump from the ground and carefully pack it. Be sure to tie the bag with a lump from below as tightly as possible so that it does not fall apart during transportation. Then you need to remove the tied lump in a plastic bag if you intend to transport it over a long distance. If the crown of the tree interferes, then it can also be tied with a rope.

A hole for planting plants is prepared in advance - in the middle of summer. You should never fall asleep under the plant just brought, fresh soil. Moreover, it is not necessary to pour granular fertilizers under the roots, which during plant transplantation are slightly damaged. Strong plants can survive this, but still, a hole for planting, flavored with fertile soil and mineral fertilizers, is best prepared at least a month before planting.

Before you remove the plant from the bag, in order to injure and dry the roots as little as possible, you need to pour off excess soil and dig up a seat. Each individual plant requires a different land. For example, light nutritious loam is very suitable for lilacs. If the soil is sandy, well-drained, i.e. those that do not shrink, the landing is carried out almost flush with the ground. If you think that soil shrinkage may occur, or the earth was poured into the pit immediately before planting, then planting should be done slightly above ground level.

Most shrubs can be slightly deepened when planting. Unlike trees, it is not necessary to ensure that the level of the root neck matches the level of the earth.

When you remove the plant from the bag, place it gently in the hole. Sprinkle some earth around an earthen coma. Then tamp the poured earth, but you cannot press the earth in the center of the coma, otherwise the root system will be damaged. If you doubt whether the lump is spilled well, it is after pouring the earth that it is best to water it. But if both the earth and the earthen lump are spilled well, then you do not need to water the plant at the time of planting. The next step is to form a hole. The hole, especially in a freshly planted plant, should be spacious, such that at least 1 - 2 buckets of water fit in it. The side of the hole is slightly tamped and then abundantly watered the plant, and more than once. You can pour 3-4 watering cans. There will never be excess water after planting.

After you planted a plant, you need to see if there are extra branches on it. The roots of the plant are injured, and each extra twig will reduce the possibility of good rooting. For example, if you will form a shrub in the form of a tree, then you can immediately remove all unnecessary shoots. Spring is not necessary to wait. Also remove all weak branches.

The right plant choice for your site is already 50% of its growing success. In addition to personal preferences, it is necessary to take into account the soil conditions, light conditions, the moisture regime of your site, which will dictate the biological characteristics of the pets you need. After the list of Wishlist has already been compiled, go shopping. This will save you from rash acquisitions and significantly reduce the time.

Give preference to plants that are grown in your area - they are most adapted to your specific growing conditions. Buy plants that were grown in the open ground, greenhouse shrubs can burn in the sun.

And now you hold the treasured candidate for pets already in your hands, carefully look - is he healthy, are there any visible mechanical injuries, diseases, illegal animals. If it is possible to consider the root system, pay attention to its integrity and hydration. If the root system is dry, the plant may not take root, no matter how you resuscitate it.

If you get a tree or shrub in a container, feel free to stagger it a bit - the plant should sit tight in the ground. Also pay attention to the soil, it should be moderately moist and there should be no fungal deposits, mildew and insects on its surface. Do not be too lazy to look at the bottom of the container - the roots should not break through its openings.

In a quality seedling, the crown will be equilateral, the branches should be evenly distributed on all sides, and in one tier the thickness of the branches should be approximately the same.

How to plant a tree or bush

1. Designate an optimal landing site.

2. Dig a landing hole

3. Loosen the bottom of the pit

4. Prepare fertile soil mixture for planting

5. Fasten the landing stake

6. Place exactly the seedling in the pit

7. Fill the pit with soil mixture

8. Tie a plant to a support

9. Pour plenty of water

10. Add soil mixture and ram the barrel circle

Some landing features

Coniferous plants should have a healthy and elastic needles without yellow spots and bald spots. Also, an important point during the spring planting of conifers is the beginning of the growing season. In no case should you transplant a coniferous plant during the period when you see buds open on it, otherwise it will die.

Many plants can be transplanted both in spring and autumn. But especially heat-loving and weakly winter-resistant species are transplanted only in the early spring, otherwise they will not have time to properly prepare for winter. These are mainly fruit trees and shrubs.

But if there is a need to plant a plant in open ground in the offseason, use planting material in containers. A few days before planting, pour a lump plentifully so that it is plastic. Then carefully transfer the plant from the container to the planting pit without damaging the lump and the integrity of the root system.

Seat preparation

The whole secret of the proper preparation of a seat for a tree or shrub lies in its good location. It is also important to maintain the optimal distance between plants, taking into account their size in adulthood. It is not advisable to plant large trees near buildings, since their root system can damage the foundation, and with age, large branches can be a threat.

Landing sites are first placed with pegs, then dig holes with a diameter of 20 to 30 cm more than the size of a clod of earth. The depth of the pit also exceeds the height of the coma by 20-30 cm. To facilitate the penetration of the roots deep into the soil, the bottom of the pit is loosened. Try to separately lay down the fertile layer of earth that you dug from the pit. Then use it to prepare the soil mixture. Land from the bottom of the pit is not used for landing.

If necessary, arrange drainage with broken brick and coarse sand. At the bottom of the landing pit, 15–25 cm of the landing mixture is poured and compacted.

Digging and transporting plants

The most painless transplant for the plant will be transshipment from the container directly into the landing pit. But if you have planned to transplant a growing tree or shrub to another place, then try to dig it without damaging the roots. First, pull the branches along the trunk with a rope so as not to accidentally break them, then carefully dig a trench around the plant at a distance of half the diameter of the crown from the trunk, and gradually get close to the root system while not breaking the earth. Next to the plant, lay a plastic film, burlap, or any other material so that the plant can be moved from place to place without breaking the ground from the roots. If you plan to transfer the plant over a long distance, then it is better to plant it in a container. If this is not possible, and almost all the earth has already crumbled from the roots, wrap the plant with a damp cloth.

Planting trees and shrubs

The plant is carefully lowered into the prepared landing site with drainage and the landing mixture, while carefully watching that its root neck is located slightly below the surface of the soil, and it is covered with soil mixture. The soil mixture is prepared from peat, earth and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Then half-fill the planting pit with water, as you decrease, you notice that the soil is compacting, and again pour the soil mixture from above. The soil around the trunk is densely crushed. If the root system of your plant is packed in burlap, then it is not necessary to remove it before planting. Under the influence of soil, water and time, it will decay into organic residues and will not impede the development of your plant.

Landing care

Immediately after planting, trees or shrubs need to be given maximum attention. Water it regularly and plentifully. Water the plant every day for the first week after planting, then according to biological requirements and weather conditions. Make sure that the soil in the trunk circle is dense and does not fall through. If necessary, add new soil and mulch the soil with peat or wood bark.

During the first year of feeding, make 3 times. It is especially important in the spring to feed young plantings with nitrogen fertilizers. They help the plant to form a green mass and gain energy for vegetation. In the autumn, phosphorus should prevail in the fertilizer complex, but nitrogen is minimized, since before winter rest it will only harm the plant.

During planting, the tree requires tying, this will help him to gain a foothold in the ground. You can fix the plant with a pole and rope. Make sure that the plant is planted vertically, with any tilt of the trunk, decorativeness will be lost. The support should accompany the plant for three years, while making sure that the ropes do not injure the bark and grow into the trunk. After this period, the support can be removed. Shrubs usually do not need to be tied to a support.

After each watering, when the soil dries out a little, the soil around a tree or shrub needs to be loosened, it is also important to keep tree trunks without weed vegetation.

Natalya Vysotskaya, dendrologist, candidate s. s. sciences.

Autumn plantings have their own specifics, especially in the central zone of Russia. Ignoring this fact, you can do a lot of trouble, so today we remind you of several important rules, following which will avoid typical autumn mistakes.

First rule: not everything should be planted in autumn

You can’t plant in autumn trees with bare rootsif one of the following statements applies to the seedling:

this plant, due to its biological characteristics, does not tolerate transplantation;
this variety or plant species has a winter hardiness problem in our climate;
this tree was grown in a different climatic zone and we have not wintered a single winter.

In the first case, we are talking primarily about deciduous trees with a rod and low-branched root system - birch trees, oaks, chestnuts, nuts, velvet and so on, as well as about such a bush as hawthorn. A bare-root transplant is very poorly tolerated and all conifers except larch trees.

As for winter hardiness, here trees such as chestnuts and almost all fruit, with the possible exception of the most winter-hardy local varieties apple trees. And finally, we do not recommend planting any species and varieties of trees just brought from Europe in the autumn with bare roots. A plant that has lost a significant portion of the roots may not be able to overpower the readjustment to other biological rhythms.

Container plants - whether it be trees or shrubs, deciduous or coniferous - you can plant in autumn. There is only one “but”: if the tree has been in the container for a very long time, if its roots have already outgrown the volume proposed by it and began to twist in rings, the plant can take root poorly. The roots in a twisted state will not be able to immediately begin to function at full capacity, so it is better not to purchase such a plant for planting in the fall.

Trees and shrubs with a lump of land transplanted in the fall as well as container ones. But the state of the coma must be studied very meticulously: if it is shaken, the earth has crumbled, you are already dealing with bare roots, only with powdered soil, and this can be deadly for the plant in all cases listed above for such a situation.

In general, with a lump it is necessary to handle extremely carefully, trying not to injure him once again. If the lump is packed in a net (metal or thread) or in a burlap, in no case do not try to get rid of them. This kind of packaging is made of materials that decompose in the ground and will not hurt the root growth at all.

The second rule: you can plant only what is no longer growing

When planting in autumn, you need to make sure that the growth of selected plants this season is over. Active vegetation is completed if the apical buds are formed and the shoots are lignified along the entire length. Otherwise - when the tree leaves in the winter before the end of the growing season - it necessarily freezes.

You should be especially careful when buying imported plants, and also if the summer turned out to be very arid, and it rained only in August. Plants from other climatic zones, just brought to Russia, may not yet master the biological rhythms of the new locality. And in dry years, violent vegetation often begins very late, only with the August rains. In both the first and second cases, we get trees that are completely unprepared for wintering by the beginning of the planting season.

The third rule: do not be late with the timing of landings

It is believed that in our climate zone, trees and shrubs with an open root system are best planted. until October 10, after all, seedlings still have a margin of time to let young roots in a new place.

If the tree has time to form new roots in unfamiliar soil, its root system begins to function at full capacity, and the transplanted plant will survive much more during the winter hassles. This is especially true for trees and shrubs that are difficult to take root (see the first rule).

Of course, landing dates may shift somewhat depending on specific weather conditions. So, in the once abnormally warm winter that fell to us, enthusiasts continued to plant almost until the beginning of December, but this, of course, was already too much insolence.

Again, when we talk about October 10th, we mean plants with bare roots. Capital research on container plants in Russia was simply not carried out, since the latter appeared relatively recently, in the latest era of the onset of imports. But we believe that with containers too far from October 10 is not worth retiring.

Fourth rule: do not overdo the fertilizer

This is a very important condition for a successful autumn landing. In the fall, you can make a landing hole phosphorus fertilizer only. Phosphorus promotes root formation and is safe for plants in high concentrations. Nitrogen, potassium and calcium in high concentration (and when fertilizing the planting hole we get a high concentration) will not only not stimulate the growth of new roots, but, on the contrary, will seriously impede the functioning of the existing root system. Introduced in the fall, these additives may be detrimental to the transplanted plant.

Accordingly, neither manure (neither fresh nor rotted), nor lime in the fall for planting no need to add. They can be made in advance, in the spring, under the general preparation of the soil.

The only thing you can still support the newly planted plant is the root formation stimulants: root and humates. Preparations are diluted with water and applied during watering in the quantities indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer.

Fifth rule: landings need protection

When autumn planting, do not forget about a set of measures that will help the plant survive the winter hardships. We are talking about mulching the trunk circle, protecting the stem from sunburn, mice and hares, installing supports and protecting the crown from a snow breaker.

Having warmed the roots, think about mouse control. After all, organic mulch (especially straw, sawdust, bark) will attract them very much. Be sure to protect the fruit and decorative varieties of apple trees, plums, pears. But we would advise in general all newly planted trees to provide protection, if such an opportunity exists. One had to see, for example, how mice nibbled cambium even on ash trees and Chinese poplars.

Actually, the protection itself is sold in the store - this is such a thin plastic spiral mesh that is worn on a standard. If you have a problem with hares on the site, a similar protection against hares must also be acquired. To learn more, read the article. Support Garter a tree planted in the winter (however, like a tree planted in the spring) is required! In no case should the tree swing in the wind, setting the root system in motion - in this case, rooting will be problematic. If the tree is small, one or two supports are sufficient; an adult plant needs a stretch system.

And finally, do not forget to protect the crown from a snowbreakertying it with twine. This is especially true for trees with a pyramidal and columnar shape of the crown - for all those whose branches move away from the trunk at an acute angle. And twice relevant for conifers with a similar shape of the crown - junipers, thuja, cypress. Shrubs also does not hurt to protect against a snowbreaker.

Good luck with your landings!

Irina Savvateeva

In what month to plant bushes and trees in your personal plot depends on a number of factors. It is necessary to take into account the climatic features of the region, the characteristics of the variety, weather, time of arrival of frosts. Planting trees in autumn is preferable for southern cities and the middle lane, where winters are not very snowy, colds do not occur until the end of October. However, planting new crops on the site is acceptable in the spring, which is most often practiced in the northern regions.

A decent selection of material. At the end of the fruiting phase (in summer), one can evaluate not only the characteristics of the seedling, but also the volume and taste of the fruit in a particular variety.
If you do not miss the deadlines, the plants have time to grow stronger, take root and take root before the winter. New roots appear on them, which are already actively growing with the onset of spring.
Rains in autumn are more frequent than in summer, which reduces the amount of watering needed. Loose, breathable soil contributes to the good rooting of the seedling, which allows you to prepare plants for winter.

Planting shrubs in autumn has its drawbacks:

Planting material is fragile seedlings of a bush or tree. With the onset of early frosts, sudden changes in temperature, too heavy rains, they may not take root and die in the cold snowy winter.
A variety of pests in the absence of food can eat the bark of fruit trees and shrubs, which significantly reduces the chances of rooting the plant.

It is necessary to take into account the amount of snow that falls in a particular region. If the crust is too large and heavy, thin stems and branches can break under its weight.

What fruit bushes and trees are planted in autumn

In autumn, you can plant such fruit trees:

cherry;
peach;
almond;
apple trees;
sweet cherry;
apricot;
plum.

Almost any fruit shrubs, with the exception of sea buckthorn, are best planted in the autumn. Winter-hardy varieties are considered:

nut;
currant;
coniferous;
some types of pears;
honeysuckle;
gooseberry;
chokeberry.

After the autumn planting, seedlings brought from the southern regions do not take root. They are not able to tolerate subzero temperatures and a large amount of snow.

Dates of planting

Autumn tree planting must be carried out in the following dates:

in the cities of the middle lane - from the end of September to the end of October;
in the warmer parts of the country - from the last decade of September to mid-November.

Plants can be planted later, should focus on the weather. In the southern latitudes, winter generally occurs in late November or early December. If the positive temperature is kept up to this period, there are no heavy rains, snow and night frosts, you can engage in planting work.

Tree planting technology

Planting fruit trees in autumn has certain nuances. It is important to choose the side of the site where there is more light and low (at least 1.5 m) groundwater. Some crops, such as peach, cherry, raspberry, without proper lighting, will not give a good crop.

Site and ground preparation

Before choosing a place, consider the size of the future plant, namely the roots and crowns of the bush / tree. It is also necessary to indent from home, communications and outbuildings.

The distance is calculated based on the height of the tree:

tall, reaching 20–25 m, placed at least 35 m from the structure;
undersized species - from 4.5 m.

Some crops in the neighborhood produce poor crops and interfere with each other, depriving them of light. The proximity of an apple tree with cherry plum, peach, apricot with cherry, walnut with many fruit crops is not recommended.

The preparation of the pits is as follows:

The size is determined based on the diameter of the roots. Bone rocks require a pit of at least 40 cm in diameter up to 60 s deep; for pome pits, the pit should have a diameter of up to 80 cm and a similar depth.
It is not recommended to prune the roots. If the seedling does not fit in the hole, its diameter must be increased.
At the bottom of the pit, a drainage layer of crushed stone of 20-40 mm, a sand-gravel mixture or river pebbles is arranged.
The top layer is removed carefully, in the future, fertilizing of mineral or organic origin will be applied to it.

Two years after planting, the seedling will be fully fed with substances that are in the soil of the planting pit. Therefore, initial feeding is so important.

How to cook seedlings

When choosing planting material, pay attention to the appearance of the plant:

the roots should be straightened and not bent up;
on the root system there should be a lump of moist earth;
too many leaves on the seedling can indicate that there is not enough moisture in the tissues;
if unripe shoots are visible, it means that the seedling was dug up before the leaves fell;
there should be no visible cracks, rot, or other damage on the cortex.

A good seedling is even, with at least 5-6 shoots, without curved sections of the trunk and branches.

Disembarkation scheme

Planting technique of seedlings of fruit trees in autumn:

Place seedlings on the south side of the site. Most fruit crops are thermophilic, need good lighting. From the north side it is better to plant tall trees.
Prepare the seedling - remove the dried parts of the root system with secateurs, moisten with a wet piece of cloth or a spray bottle.
Set a wooden peg in the center of the dug hole, and make a knoll at the bottom.
Place a seedling in the center of this mound so that it is at least 5 cm from the peg. The vaccination should be 3 cm above the ground.
Fill the hole with earth, gently pressing it with your hands. Mulch.

First remove the topsoil, put it in a large container. It is necessary to make top dressing and fill up the place around the seedling.

The subtleties of planting shrubs

It is better to plant shrubs on the site in the first ten days of September, so that they can take root before the winter cold and not be damaged by frost. Planting technique depends on whether you want to receive freestanding bushes or hedges.

Site and soil preparation

The dimensions of the landing holes should correspond to the parameters of the root system. Lateral roots - to be able to receive nutrients and water from all soil layers due to growth to the sides.

Pits for shrubs are prepared as follows:

To create a natural fence from the bushes, you need to dig a long trench. In the lowest place of the dug hole, drain the water. If the slope of the plot is absent, an artificial slope is created by removing the topsoil.
Some shrubs, such as thuja, are suitable for creating hedges. In this case, you can also make a trench, the depth of which will be 50-60 cm.
Medium-sized plants require trenches up to 50 cm deep.
From the smallest shrubs, you can create low borders. In this case, the trench will not exceed 35 cm in depth.

The width of the pit also varies depending on the size of the seedlings:

single row landing - 50 cm;
medium shrubs - up to 40 cm;
small seedlings - the width of a shovel.

As in the case of tree planting, the topsoil is removed about 12 cm thick and deposited in a separate container for fertilizing.

Planting Material Processing

When the seedlings are purchased in advance, they must be protected from drying by wrapping the root system with a damp cloth and transferring the plants to a cool place. If the seedling is bought too late, it is better to tack it until the next planting period. Preparatory stages:

roots are trimmed to the appearance of healthy tissues, dried roots are removed by secateurs;
1.5 hours before transfer to the pits, the root system is watered abundantly;
the plant is transported into a pit with adhering earthen lump;
some crops require pruning of shoots before planting.

It is necessary to remove all dried shoots and roots, as well as broken, with signs of disease, cracks. Use a sharp tool not to touch the healthy tissue of the plant.

Disembarkation technology

The scheme of planting bushes:

In a dug hole, it is necessary to drive a pointed peg from a tree to a depth of about 20 cm.The height of the peg should be about 1-1.5 m. It is necessary for further gartering of plants (standard varieties) and strengthening on the soil site.
Before planting for about 15 minutes, the roots of the seedlings should be outdoors. To do this, remove the packaging or a damp cloth, spread the planting material near the dug holes.
Sprinkle plant soil at the bottom of the hole and form a mound in the shape of a cone with a height of at least half the depth. Consider the nature of the branching and the shape of the root system.
Place a seedling and straighten the cones with your hands. It should be strictly vertical and at a distance of 5 cm from the peg.
Note that during subsequent irrigation, the soil will settle. Therefore, the seedling should be 5 cm above the usual surface of the garden plot, the root neck does not penetrate into the pit.
Fill the soil layer by layer, compact with your feet to the outside of the hole. This will help to avoid voids and excessive shrinkage during irrigation.
Fill the entire root system completely, gently tamp. Center the seedling and tie it with a soft rope to the peg at a height of about 1.5 mot soil.

For non-standard forms of shrubs as a fortification, you can use not a peg, but a rounded hole, which is organized by the diameter of the landing pit.

Immediately after planting shrubs and fruit trees, you need to water the seedlings. Mulching is carried out with peat chips, the layer thickness should be about 2 cm. This will reduce moisture evaporation. In addition to peat, you can use a mixture of earth and sand, crushed bark of trees and other natural materials.

As a top dressing, a ready-made or self-made growth stimulator is used. It is added to the water used for irrigation. This will contribute to the rapid rooting of plants.

When working with shrubs or trees, consider climatic conditions. The low temperatures of the Urals or Siberia are suitable for growing acclimatized or zoned varieties that can tolerate the early arrival of frosts and snowy windy winters. An early digging of seedlings, if carried out before leafy flying, can lead to the fact that bushes with unripened shoots will freeze and die. Choose planting material without leaves, not overdried, without broken or dry roots.

How to transplant shrubs.

If you are bored with the familiar look of your garden, you can always make interesting changes by replanting ornamental shrubs in a new place. And the reason may be - just a change of mood or if the plant has grown and you find him a new cozy place in your garden.

The transplantation of "large" planting material has been practiced in world gardening for a very long time. The need for transplanting shrubs appears if you want to change the appearance of the garden or transplant the plant to a more suitable place for it. In addition, shrubs are replanted if they have grown and in this area we do not have enough space, however, I already said this at the very beginning.

It is recommended to transplant time in spring or autumn when they are at a dormant stage. Plants transplanted at this time take root better. In the spring they are transplanted after the soil opens, and in the fall at such a time that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. Before transplanting shrubs with climbing shoots, tape them or put a bag on the shrub. It is easiest to transplant shrubs that grow in the garden in one place for no more than a year. Otherwise, the transplant will be very difficult. If possible, refrain from transplanting adult shrubs, as such instances do not tolerate transplanting and take root worse.

Shrubs take root well in a new place if you prepare them for transplanting. Transplant them at the right time and provide them with proper care.

We select a suitable plot in the garden. This place must meet all the necessary requirements for both light and soil characteristics. Before landing, we carry out abundant pruning. If the place where you want to transplant the bush is located near the site on which it is currently growing, then the plant can be moved without packing its roots. If you need to move the bush a considerable distance, then I recommend packing its root lump in dense tissue. This will help us not to lose the soil that forms a lump on the roots of the plant, and it will also help to store the shrub for some time if you cannot plant it right away.

To prepare for a shrub transplant, I advise you to approach this issue with all responsibility. A month before a shrub transplant, draw a circle around it with a shovel. Before the transplant, we water the shrub well, so that it is easier to dig out, and the roots are saturated with moisture. Open the root lump from all sides or carefully dig it out, being careful not to damage the roots. Then we dig a landing pit at the proposed site for a future shrub planting. The pit should be twice as wide as the lump itself with the roots of the bush. The ground at the bottom of the landing pit will need to be loosened. We plant our shrub to the same depth as it grew before transplanting. Form a watering circle and water the plant. Also water the plant when the soil dries to a depth of 5 cm. After watering, mulch the soil with a thick layer of suitable mulching material (see a hundred mulch).

In the spring, several weeks after planting, new shoots will appear on the bushes. At the same time, the plant develops new roots. In order for the plant to continue to develop well, feed it. You can add liquid fertilizer to the water and carry out root dressing. If you transplanted the bush to a windy place, take care of a reliable support, install the support in such a way as not to damage the roots of our shrub. Once the shrub has taken root, the support can be removed; for the rooted shrub, the wind is no longer a hindrance.

And to summarize: the ideal time for transplanting is early spring, as soon as the soil opens, until the plant has grown. Plants take root faster with regular watering and cool weather. In areas with a cold climate and in areas with clay soil, a plant is best planted in the spring. In the fall we transplant, this is an alternative time for transplanting shrubs. It is very important to plant a plant at such a time so that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. If it rains in the fall, replant the plants after the soil dries. That's all the secrets of a good shrub transplant. Good luck to you.

How and when to transplant trees and bushes

Is it possible to transplant a tree or bush in summer?

In case of emergency, trees can be replanted at any time of the year, observing the following rules:

The transplanted tree should be taken out of the ground on a foggy or rainy day.

Pits are dug up several months before planting and filled with half-ripened manure or good compost.

Transplanted trees must be healthy.

When digging a tree, its strong roots are first exposed at the greatest possible distance. Then they dig a semicircular ditch on one side of the tree, the width is half the length of the roots.

If large thick roots are no longer found, they dig under the tree and cut the main stem of the roots.

When a tree is undermined on one side, then all roots are cut off from the opposite side, tilting the tree to the side on which it is already undermined. Then the tree is removed from the ground, after wrapping it with burlap or tarpaulin and pulling it with ropes.

Planting pits should be twice as much as the roots take up space. The roots are straightened in a horizontal position, covered with earth. When backfilling, the tree is shaken as much as possible, and after backfilling, the ground is crushed and watered abundantly.

The weak part of the tree should be facing south.

There is another way to transplant trees in the garden.

To do this, dig a hole of an appropriate size, but not less than 1.5 m in diameter, and fill it with half water (method of planting in a talker). Then the earth and humus are added. All this shakes up until an earthen chatter forms into which the tree is planted. Then they fill up the hole and water it again. The talker is needed so that all the voids between the roots are filled with soil. Stakes (preferably from three sides) are put away in untouched soil and with the help of ropes strengthen the tree. A tree planted in this way needs to be watered 1-2 times a week, depending on the weather and soil conditions.

After planting, and even better before transplanting, all branches of the crown are cut in half, the roots damaged by a shovel are smoothly cut with a knife.

After transplanting, it is advisable to tie the trunk and main branches with moss in order to protect the tree from sunlight. It is useful to mulch the soil around the tree with straw manure to maintain its moisture content.

Nevertheless, the autumn method of transplantation is more preferable for which the time has come in the country now.

Reader Tips:

How to transplant a large, large tree (krupnomer)

Having received the site, the newly-minted gardener seeks to plant everything at once. And more! But ten years pass, and the incorrectly planted apple trees turn into a forest. This is where the problem of choice arises: either an ax or a transplant. And the tree is already many meters long ...

Transplanting large-sized trees (that's what trees over 10 years old are called) without the appropriate technique is not an easy task at all. But with two or three pairs of hands possible. Dig a tree in a radius of 0.6-0.8 m from the trunk, chop off the roots. Then “hand-to-hand” (or a winch) lay the tree on its side (without lifting it!), Cutting the vertical roots by at least half a meter. Fill the formed hole flush with the surrounding soil. Then spread a tarp (or something similar) in this place. Turn the root lump onto the litter, turning the tree upright. And then drag your newcomer to a new place of residence by dragging.

My husband and I replanted trees in November - cherries at the age of 8 years and an apple tree at the age of 15. The place where they grew shaded, and we decided to move them to the sun. The risk, of course, was. But as they say, who does not risk ...

Pits were prepared in advance, and deeper than those in which our trees were originally planted. Humus was poured into the bottom, always two shovels of clay (in our area there is no stagnation of water, and clay retains moisture), slightly sprinkled with earth.

Trees were dug up - they dug at a distance of 80 cm from the trunk, long roots were chopped off. Barely dragged the "settlers" to a new place. They planted them 10 cm deeper than usual and made a depression like a bowl so that rainwater would flow directly under the trees. Finally, abundantly watered. It was in the last days of November. December turned out to be wet, sometimes it rained. Perhaps because of this, the trees did not hurt. They began to wait for spring.

What was our surprise when in spring we saw swollen buds, and then abundant flowering - cherries and apple trees took root!

In the spring, in this "bowl" I watered an apple tree for 2-3 buckets, or even more, since it needed moisture so that the flowers would not fade. And in the summer, during fruiting, watered on dry days. Did it in the evenings. When setting and ripening fruits need moisture. I took water from the pond, we have it near the garden.

They worked, watered, and it took root. Seedlings benefit from water in hot summers - it is absorbed into the ground, moisturizing it plentifully, and everything around it grows. You just need to make sure that the puddle does not stand under the tree. If your site is too low, I advise you to drain at the bottom of the pit so that the roots do not rot.

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Garden and Cottage ›Tips for summer residents› How and when to transplant trees correctly

When to transplant trees and shrubs

When is it better to transplant trees and shrubs? Consider how and when you can transplant fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as conifers.

The end of summer - the beginning of autumn - a good time for planting and transplanting plants, both fruit and ornamental. In order for new plants to take root well and successfully overwinter, some rules.

Plant plants with an open root system from the first decade of April to the second decade of May and from the second decade of August to the first decade of September. When planting at these times, the plants manage to take root and winter well.

When planting, cut off inflorescences and part of the leaves in plants, especially large leaf blades, to prevent excessive evaporation and loss of moisture.

Excavation and landing at a new location is desirable to carry out in one day.

After planting, transplant, the plants are watered and treated with growth stimulants.

Do not plant plants with the container, carefully remove the container without destroying the lump.

Do not deepen the root neck of trees and shrubs, especially in grafted forms.

When is it better to transplant fruit trees

Fruit trees are best planted and transplanted at the age of 1 - 5 years. If older plants are transplanted, then planting is carried out with a lump of earth approximately equal to the diameter of the crown, packed in a netting net or burlap, as well as using special equipment. This technology is called "planting large-sized."

Spend in the late autumn, winter and early spring, with the exception of summer.

When planting and transplanting fruit plants with an open root system, it is necessary to observe high humidity in the region of the root system so that small fouling roots do not dry out. The root system needs to be shortened by about 1/3, so that the roots develop better. When transplanting fruit, it is also necessary to trim the aerial parts to balance the crown and root system.

When planting plants in containers, it is important not to destroy the lump and not to deepen the root neck in order to avoid the formation of a large number of shoots.

When is it better to transplant decorative trees and shrubs

The highest survival rates are found in plants with a closed root system. They can be planted at any time, with the exception of winter ones. Read more about planting seedlings in containers.

When planting plants with an open root system, it is necessary to slightly trim the aboveground and underground parts. After this, plants need regular, but moderate watering. It is advisable to carry out 2-3 sprayings with "Epin" or "Zircon" on the leaves with an interval of 7-10 days - to relieve post-hepatic stress in plants. In the first winter after planting, all cultures carry out a lung
shelter, so that plants better winter and take root.

When is it better to transplant conifers

They can also be planted at any time, but provided that the plants are grown in containers. With an open root system, conifers practically do not realize, since their survival is extremely low. When planting, plants are watered under the root and treated with stimulants containing iron and silicon - Ferrovit and Siliplant.

Currant transplantation to a new place in autumn and spring when possible

In gardening practice often arise Situations that require currant transplantation to a new place. Most often this is due to an error during the selection of a place, depletion of soil under a bush or redevelopment of a site.

Transplanting an adult shrub to another place - Great stress for the plant, which is accompanied by soreness and often leads to his death.

Therefore, the procedure should be carried out taking into account the biological characteristics and the annual cycle of currant.

Stages of correct transplantation of an adult bush
- Site selection and preparation
Care after

When is it better to transplant currants to a new place: in autumn or spring, in which month?

Which month is more favorable? The terms of transplantation of currants completely depend on the climatic conditions of the region. In regions with harsh winters with a drop in air temperature below 30 ° C, spring transplantation is preferable.

But at the same time, it is important to take into account the features of the annual cycle of the culture, which enters vegetation early. After the beginning of sap flow, the shrub will receive a double load, trying to take root and at the same time increasing green mass.

Spring transplant carried out after complete thawing of the soil, raising the temperature to + 1 ° C and until the kidneys swell. This limits the time of transplantation, reduces the time for quiet rooting to three weeks.

The terms of transplantation of currants completely depend on the climatic conditions of the region

There are much more favorable factors during the autumn transplant of currants. This is a stable temperature until the first frost, which gives time for the adaptation of the roots in a new place.

In addition, in the cells of currant in the autumn there are much more nutrients and a downward current prevails, which contribute to the rapid healing of root wounds and give strength to restore.

Therefore, in the middle and southern regions of horticulture, shrubs Prefer transplant in the fall. It is important to determine the most accurate time, until the first frost should remain at least three weeks.

The ideal time for transplantation is the period between September 10-15, at which time the most active growth of absorbed roots is noted. This factor significantly increases the percentage of survival of currants.

Stages of correct transplantation of an adult bush

The basis for a successful transplant of an adult shrub - the right choice of place, preparation of soil and shrubs.

Site selection and preparation

Red and white currants are thermophilic plants. Aligned areas oriented to the south or south-west direction are selected for them. In such areas, the soil warms up in the sun, aerates well and water does not stagnate.

Black and green currants less whimsical plants. Good indicators of a stable crop are observed when planting on the slopes of the north or northeast direction. Short-term shading is acceptable.

The best predecessors of currants are row crops, which contribute to cleansing the site of rhizome weeds. These are potatoes, beets, corn, buckwheat and beans.

Unsuitable for growing lowland currants and closed basins, where cold air stagnates and humidity is increased. This contributes to the development of fungal diseases and the appearance of root rot.

In early spring, the selected place is dug up to a depth of 40 cm with fertilizer per 1 m2:

Compost or manure 10 kg;
Double superphosphate 10 g;
Potassium Chloride 7 g.

In spring or autumn, prepare a pit for transplantation: a depth of 40 and a width of 70 cm, fill it with a substrate

In the summer, in August, the site is dug up again and form a pit for the bush. For spring transplantation, the plot is prepared in the fall.

Determining the size of the pit, they are guided by the volume of the bush. In most cases 40 cm deep and 60 cm wide enough. For tall and repairing varieties, a depth of 60-70 cm will be required. The distance between the bushes is at least 1.5 meters.

After digging, the 1/3 hole is filled with a substrate from mixed components:

The top layer of garden soil from the pit;
Overripe manure or compost 10 kg;
Superphosphate 300 g (for blackcurrant) 200 g (red, white);
Wood ash 400 g or potassium sulfate 30 g.

For red and white currants, a hole is dug deeper and at the bottom a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken brick is formed of not more than 15% of the total volume.

Thereafter A pit is shed with 1-2 buckets of water. Before transplanting currants inside the pit, all conditions will be created for a comfortable adaptation of the roots.

The substrate is structured and saturated with moisture, and the introduced minerals and organics will take the forms that are easy for the plant to absorb and will not cause root burns.

Currant transplant:

Preparation of shrubs of red and black currants

During the transplant, the volume of the roots of the shrub will significantly decrease, which complicates the nutrition of the vegetative mass. Therefore currant 2-3 weeks before the upcoming eventleaving only areas significant for fruiting and development. With autumn planting, pruning can be done in the spring, before the buds swell.

At the base of the bush there is a branch zone. Strong lateral shoots grow out of it, at a height of 30-40 cm, the fruiting zone begins, characterized by weak branching. The shoots are short, but with developed flower buds, so most of the crop is placed on them.

On top of branches also massively formed fruit buds, which are noticeably weaker and give only small berries. Therefore, the main branches of the bush are cut by 1/3, without fear of harm to the harvest of the next season. After trimming, the average height of the currant should be 45-50 cm.

5 years currant fruit productivity There is no sense to leave outdated branches on a bush. The development of currants is hindered by spinning tops, salting and dried branches, they should also be removed.

Do not combine shrub pruning with a transplant. This is a double burden for the plant, which will distribute the forces for wound healing and adaptation of the roots in a new place. This can cause the death of currants.

You can change to another place!

During the transplantation, a groove 30-35 cm deep is dug around the trunk circle, stepping 40 cm from the trunk. After that, you need to gently pull the shrub at the base of the branches, holding the roots off with a bayonet shovel.

For the convenience of the event Currant branches bind like a spindle. In addition, this will protect against fruit branch breakage. Dug shrubs are placed on a tarp for transportation to the landing site.

Further Inspect the roots, clean them from pests, cut off dried and rotted areas. A disinfection procedure is carried out by placing the plant roots in a 1% potassium permanganate solution for 15 minutes.

A shrub with healthy roots is transplanted without pre-treatment.

At the bottom of the landing fossa A mound is formed from the prepared substrate and spilled with 1-2 buckets of water. After that, wait until the water is absorbed. Planting in a too humid environment will lead to excessive shrinkage of the shrub, which often leads to improper development.

Also take into account that The root neck of the shrub should remain 5 cm below the surface of the substrate.

When transplanting, you need to take into account that the root neck of the shrub is 5 cm below the surface of the substrate

Regarding the cardinal points, currants are placed similarly to the former place. The currant roots are distributed on the surface of the mound, preventing unnatural bends upward.

During backfilling, make sure that voids do not formwhich often become the cause of decay. To do this, during the procedure, the shrub is periodically shaken.

Tamped surface and Around the trunk circle form a hole for irrigation. Water (20 l) is poured gradually, waiting for complete absorption. With such irrigation, water completely covers the roots, increasing their contact with the soil.

After this, the trunk circle and the hole are mulched with peat, humus or sod land.

Care after

After transplanting, the shrub will need the help of a gardener. The soil in the trunk circle is maintained in a constantly loose state. This is necessary to create the optimal balance of water and air for proper nutrition and respiration of the roots.

At the base of the bush, cultivation is carried out to a depth of 5-6 cm, closer to the watering hole to 15 cm.

In autumn, the bush is prepared for winter:

They clear the trunk circle of plant debris;
Lay a layer of mulch from peat or straw at least 15 cm in height;
Cover the stamb with spruce branches;
Spraying with fungicides;
The branches are gathered to the center and tied with twine;
Pull snow to the bush.

Currants are prepared for winter: the stem of the stem is cleaned of plant debris, the branches are collected to the center and tied with twine

In the first two weeks after planting, if there is no rain, Regular watering every other day is required.. So that the soil is moistened to 60 cm in depth. For this, 3-4 buckets of water are used.

In the first year, feeding currants will not be needed. After two weeks, the timing of irrigation is determined by the condition of the soil under the shrubbery.

Spreading the soil into small pieces after compression in the hand indicates the need for urgent watering. This indicator is guided throughout the growing season.

Weakened shrubs are most attractive for pests and diseases.due to a temporary loss of stability. Therefore, the task of the gardener in this period is complete control over the currant, especially in the first year of development.

AND Insecticides and fungicides can help.that can be prepared from herbal ingredients or purchased ready-made preparations.

How to transplant a bush of currant without risk, part 1:

How to transplant a bush of currant without risk, part 2.