Strong gates from a profile pipe: do it yourself. How to weld a gate from a professional pipe with your own hands video Gate from a profile pipe drawings

Profiled metal sheet can be safely called a universal material, since in private construction it is used for a variety of needs. The roofs of residential buildings and ancillary structures are blocked with them, it is used to create walls and partitions in adjoining buildings, it is perfect for fences, gates and gates. Often, by the way, it happens that starting with a gate or a wicket, the owner of the site realizes in practice the simplicity and convenience of working with this material, and this stimulates him to completely renew the old wooden fence of his territory with the use of corrugated board.

There are separate publications on the site about a fence made of corrugated board, and in this article, let's look at how a gate is made from a metal profile with our own hands - a diagram + the procedure for doing the work. Using the example of this, the smallest in area, area fencing element, it will be easier to understand the principle of the operations performed, with the tools, materials and components necessary for this, with the basic technological methods used during installation.

Preparatory stages

Necessary tools for work

Everyone knows that when working with metal parts, welding is most often used to fasten individual elements into a common structure. Indeed, this is the most reliable fixation method for metal. Nevertheless, there are times when it is not possible to use such technology, and then the craftsmen resort to other methods of installation.

So, for the manufacture and installation of a wicket with a metal profile sheathing, it is necessary to prepare:

• This device will always be useful to owners of private houses, especially those who are planning a major overhaul of their homes or are engaged in the construction of outbuildings on their personal plot. For non-professional craftsmen, it is enough to have an inverter welding machine with a welding current of up to 160 ÷ 200 A in their toolbox. The price of these devices today can be considered quite affordable; if handled correctly, the device will last for many years. And, by the way, it will help to save even larger sums, since inviting a welder with his equipment on any occasion is not cheap.

The ability to independently weld metal solves many problems

In everyday life of a country house, the need to perform various welding works arises very often. The best option, of course, is to purchase your own equipment and have the skills to work with it. How to choose the right welding machine and how to start - read in a special publication of our portal.

Prices for metal profiles

metal profile

• Angle grinder ("grinder") and a set of wheels for working with metal - for cutting and for grinding.
• Screwdriver - this tool will help you quickly and effortlessly fix the sheets of corrugated board on a metal frame.
• The scribe will help you when marking parts for a metal structure. Unlike a pencil or marker, a scribe gives clear, regular lines that are easy to cut.
• Also, you will need a metal ruler, tape measure, construction square and level for marking.
• Clamps - these devices are necessary when assembling the frame, when installing the hinges and wicket lock.
• A garden drill with a diameter of 200 ÷ 250 mm will not only help you quickly and easily drill a hole for installing the supporting posts of the gate, but also significantly save on bulk building materials. This is due to the fact that the hole dug with a shovel will always be much wider, which means that it will require a larger volume of mortar, which is used to fix the bearing racks.
• If the farm does not have a concrete mixer, then it is necessary to prepare a container for mixing concrete. And in this case, a construction mixer can help to mix the solution qualitatively. An electric drill with a mixer attachment is unlikely to cope with such a task.
• Shovels, shovel and bayonet - for earthwork, as well as for mixing concrete. If it will be done manually.
• Scrap - this tool is used both for digging pits under the pillars (if a dense rock comes across along the way of the drill), and for tamping crushed stone around the bearing racks, and for “bayonetting” - removing air bubbles from the solution after pouring it into the holes.

Earlier, attention was drawn to the fact that if the frame of the wicket is planned to be heavy, that is, for example, each of its elements will consist of two shaped pipes or the total height will be more than 2000 mm, then it is recommended to tie the support posts in the upper part with a crossbar. This design will be more rigid and will help relieve some of the load on the support legs. It is not forbidden to place the same jumper at the bottom.

Calculator for calculating the amount of concrete for the installation of racks and ingredients for its manufacture

The calculator proposed below will allow you to quickly calculate how much concrete mortar of the M200 grade is required to install one post-support of the wicket.

• The calculation program provides for the ability to change the height of the concrete pouring of the well.
• In addition, you can include in the total amount of concrete the volume that is required to completely fill the pipe cavity. When you select this item, additional data entry fields will appear. Considering that various pipes can be used for racks, the calculation algorithm includes the parameters of the most suitable standard sizes of square, rectangular and round pipes for this purpose.
• The answer will be given both in the total amount of concrete and with a breakdown by ingredients - PC400 cement, sand, gravel and water. The amount of ingredients is estimated in weight and volume.

When the owner of the estate has a car, then he cannot do without a gate. If you decide to make them yourself, it is better to choose a swing-type welded gate. They are easy to make from available materials with the ability to weld metal at an amateur level. Therefore, welding a gate for a fence with your own hands will cost much less than buying or ordering.

Depending on the size of the plot and the free space in front of the swing gates, they are welded:

1. Single leaf, if there is enough room to open. For normal operation, you will have to install a powerful support, weld a reinforced frame and strengthen the hinges. Such welded gates are rarely installed on personal plots, more often in private garages.
2. Bivalves, which are more convenient to operate, require less space to open. The design of such welded swing gates consists of two leaves of the same size.
3. With a wicket, if the width of the site does not allow installing it separately. Swing gates with a wicket are welded in the same way as usual, making an opening in the right place on the sash with an additional beam and support. However, it is inconvenient to use it because of the high threshold, which is difficult to overcome for small children and the carriage of a stroller with an infant.

Determine the dimensions, make a drawing

As a basis, you can take a sketch found on the Internet and rework it in accordance with your conditions. The drawing indicates the size of the frames and supports, the location of the crossbars, the installation location of the locking device. In height, welded gates are made flush with the fence. When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the technical clearance between the sashes and the ground. It is needed to reduce the wind load. If the road to the site is asphalt or concrete, the clearance size is 3 - 5 cm, and the ground clearance is 10 cm. When drawing up the drawing, it is necessary to provide for gaps of several millimeters between the shutters to compensate for the skew during ground movements and at the supports for awnings. For free passage of cars and trucks, swing gates are welded with a width of at least 3 m.If you have to enter at an angle, the size is increased to 3.6 m.

Choosing materials for manufacturing

The best option in terms of quality / price ratio would be swing gates welded from shaped pipes. For the frame, a section of 40 × 20 × 2 mm is selected. If the installation of automation is supposed to be 60 × 40 × 2mm. The cross-section of the support pillars depends on how much the swing welded gates weigh:

• less than 150 kg - 80 × 80 × 4mm;
• 150 - 300 kg - 100 × 100 × 5mm;
• more than 300 kg - 100 × 140 × 5mm.

Swing gates for summer cottages, if they rest on it only in summer, can be welded from old water pipes 1/2 - 1 inch or a 40 × 40 corner. The sheet material for cladding is selected depending on preferences and financial capabilities. For example, you can make a gate with transparent inserts. So that even a child can open them, the frames are hung on ball hinges. Metal paint is usually chosen to match the color of the fence.

Installing the pillars

The installation of the supports will be carried out in the following sequence:

1. Pits are dug or drilled to the depth of freezing of the soil, but not less than 1 m. The transverse dimensions should be twice the cross-section of the column.
2. So that the racks do not fall into the ground, the bottom of the pits is covered with a sand-gravel mixture 15 - 20 cm thick.
3. Sections of reinforcement or metal strips are welded onto the buried ends of the supports, and plates 2 - 3 mm thick are welded onto the opposite ends. Instead of them, you can put curly heads.
4. The lower part of the pillars is cleaned of rust and coated with bitumen, and then lowered into the pits.
5. Using broken brick or stones, the racks are placed strictly vertically along the building level or plumb line and poured with a sand-cement mixture.
6. To prevent skewing of the supports when the soil moves, a shallow trench is dug between them, a corner is laid and welded. Then they are buried or concreted.

The concrete is allowed to stand for a week. This is enough time to weld the gate and wicket. To protect the concrete from cracking during hardening, it is periodically moistened with water.

Welding swing gate leaves

Since correctly welded gates should not have distortions, the frame is assembled on the welding table. If it is not there, you need to prepare a level place on the ground. The work is carried out in stages:

1. The ends of the pipes prepared for the outer frame are cut off at an angle of 45⁰. Welding points are cleaned to metal.
2. The pipes are folded into a rectangle on a flat surface, where the gate will be welded. The correctness of the outer and inner corners is checked with a square and measuring the diagonals. The permissible discrepancy is not more than 2 mm. The horizontal position is checked by the level. For reliability, the structure is fastened with corner clamps before welding.
3. They grab the corners, re-check their correctness, weld with continuous seams.
4. A horizontal cross member is welded into the middle of the frame. Diagonal spacers are inserted into the resulting two parts. With such a structure, high strength is achieved with minimal material consumption, which is important if the gate is welded with the use of one's hands.
5. Slag is knocked off the seams, cleaning is carried out with a grinder. The welded joints must be checked for leaks, since water that gets inside will accelerate the corrosion process, and in winter, when freezing, it can break pipes.

The wicket is welded in the same way from the same profile as the gate or of a smaller section. If, to save space, it is supposed to cut it into the sash, one of the frame tubes can be used as a support.

A horizontal cross member is welded to the middle of the frame and two diagonal struts from it - a solid structure at minimal cost

We weld on the hinges and install the gate

In order to hang the swing gates from the profile without skewing, the sashes are temporarily welded together with narrow metal strips with a gap of 3 - 5 mm. Then, using bricks or wooden blocks, they are inserted into the opening to the height of the technical clearance. The position is checked horizontally and vertically with a plumb line and level, after which it is fixed with wedges or welded to the posts with steel strips.

To evenly distribute the load on the pipes of the racks and the frame, steel strips (ears) are welded to the cylindrical loops. In this way, canopies can be welded on both sides. The lower part of the hinges is attached to the post, the upper one with a ball - to the sash. If it is solid, you need to drill a hole for lubrication. To prevent the movable connection of the awnings from sintering during welding, it is preliminarily abundantly lubricated with grease.

Depending on the weight of the swing gate, 2 - 4 hinges are installed. First, they are grabbed, then, after removing the temporary fasteners, the movement of the valves is checked. The final welding is carried out from bottom to top along the perimeter of the lugs. To prevent the removal of the swing gate by intruders, limiters are installed on the supports.

Sheathe the gate

If a material is chosen for cladding (profiled sheet, polycarbonate, etc.), which is fastened with self-tapping screws or rivets, the frames must first be cleaned of dirt and rust. After treatment with an anti-corrosion compound, primer and painting are carried out. The finishing of the cladding, if it is made of sheet or roofing iron, is carried out after welding.

On popular swing gates made of corrugated board and polycarbonate, they try to pick up sheets so that there is no seam on the sash. If it is not possible to get material of this size, the first strip is set in level and fastened with a pair of self-tapping screws. After checking the position, they are screwed into all the waves adjacent to the elements of the welded frame. The next sheet is attached with an overlap on the wave of the previous one.

Sheathing is also made from other materials:

1. Wood. Affordable, beautiful option with the possibility of easy replacement. However, regular maintenance is required. It should be borne in mind that the wood may crack when it dries.
2. Metal sheet. The casing is strong but heavy.
3. Forged. The ability to create original designs, but only specialists can weld such gates.
4. Metal mesh. Low price, ease of work, light weight. However, there is no aesthetics, and few people will like the accessibility of viewing the territory adjacent to the house by strangers.
5. Combined options are welded from forged elements, so the shape of the swing gate can be any. To protect against the curious, the doors from the courtyard side are sheathed with metal, profile or polycarbonate sheets. Installation is usually carried out by specialists, since a beginner cannot afford to weld a gate of this type.

Installing the lock

If the installation of automation is not envisaged, hinges are welded to the outside of the shutters for a padlock. On the inside, a rotary latch or latch is installed. It can be made from two lengths of 20 mm pipe welded to the horizontal crossbars of the flaps. When closing, a steel rod with a diameter of 14 - 16 mm is inserted into them.

For rigid fixation of swing gates in the closed and open position at the bottom of the shutters, vertical bolt-type stoppers are installed. If the pillars had to be welded together with a crossbar, a couple more are installed at the top. Retainers are purchased or welded from half-inch pipe lengths of 20 cm, into which steel pins with curved ends are inserted. They will go into pipes driven or concreted into the ground.

The welding of the gate from the profile pipe is completed by installing a mortise or patch lock on the wicket. When cutting grooves for the case on the sash and the crossbar in the post, you should try not to leave gaps. Otherwise, the gate will strum in the wind. For reliable fixation, a stopper is installed as on a gate.

After completing the installation of swing gates, it is worth thinking about automation, since jogging, especially in the rain, will quickly get bored when entering and leaving. The necessary components can be found in stores, and the work can be done by yourself if you have experience in connecting electrical equipment. With proper care, the automation will provide a comfortable ride for a long time.

Metal gates are reliable and durable, have a fairly high cost, half of which is payment for work. Considering alternative design options for entrance gates, you can try to make a solid gate from a profile pipe with your own hands. Such work can be done by a master with knowledge and skill in welding. In this article - everything about how to properly weld metal gates, detailed drawings, photos and videos on the manufacture of the gate structure.

The choice of material for the manufacture of the gate and a set of necessary tools

It is very convenient and profitable to make a gate from a professional sheet, for which there are motivated explanations:

• The material is quite durable.
• The profiled sheet does not have significant weight, which will eliminate the deformation and sagging of the gates and wickets.
• The construction of the foundation when installing the gate is carried out only for free-standing support pillars.
• A gate made of a metal profile serves as a reliable protection of the territory from unauthorized intrusions, protects the site from prying eyes and reliably delimits the territory.

• A metal profile has an affordable cost.
• Installation of a gate made of a profiled sheet is easy to do with your own hands.

For the manufacture of the gate, you will need building materials, which must be purchased in advance. So, to complete the work you will need:

1. Profile metal pipe for gate pillars measuring 100 x 100 mm.
2. A pipe of 50 x 50 mm for the manufacture of the sash frame.
3. Pipe 40 x 22 mm for the manufacture of struts and lintels, which provide rigidity and stability of the sashes.
4. Profiled metal sheet for door trimming.
5. Fastening hardware.
6. Fittings (hinges and covers), locking mechanisms (hooks, latches, latches, locks).
7. Finishing materials (if the gate will be painted).
8. Roller mechanisms - if it is envisaged to manufacture sliding doors.

When making a gate, you must use the following tool:

1. Welding machine and electrodes to it.
2. Bulgarian.
3. Electric drill with a set of drills.
4. Roulette.
5. Building level.
6. Corner.
7. Hammer.
8. Spray gun, paint brushes or rollers.

Stages of manufacturing metal gates

For the manufacture of a solid gate structure from shaped pipes, you should strictly adhere to a certain work plan, which includes several stages.

• The preparation of a design sketch is a very crucial stage, which includes the development of sketches and the necessary calculations of the need for materials. Errors at this stage are unacceptable, otherwise there is a danger of manufacturing defective parts. When developing drawings, various nuances of the adopted design solutions are taken into account.
• Purchase and procurement of material - at this stage, the acquisition of the necessary materials, preliminary processing of pipes, cleaning them from rust, degreasing metal surfaces with gasoline or solvent takes place.
• Cutting of metal parts - according to the manufactured drawings, pipes are cut to size.
• Installation of support pillars - to install the support pillars, two holes must first be dug. The dimensions of the pits are 50 x 50 x100 cm. When installing the pillars, it is very important to set them strictly vertically; the pillars in the pits are strengthened by layer-by-layer backfilling with large crushed stone, rubble stone filled with concrete mortar. Complete hardening is achieved in 3 days.

• Gate frame manufacturing (pipe welding) is the most crucial stage in gate manufacturing. It is necessary to periodically check the conformity of geometric shapes and sizes, to measure angles. At this stage, decorative elements and locks are strengthened. After welding the structures, the gate parts are cleaned of slag, and the welded seams are polished.
• Mounting the hinges, hanging the frame on the supports - this work must be done with an assistant in order to avoid skewing the sashes. First, the hinges are welded to the reinforced posts, then to the frame.

Advice! Welding work must be carried out in special protective clothing.

• Painting of gate structures - before painting the gate, the metal parts should be pre-treated with a primer. This treatment will protect the gate from premature rust damage. After the primer layer has dried, you can proceed to the finishing of the gate. It is convenient to use a spray gun, rollers or brushes to apply paint. If the structure provides for finishing with decorative material (wood, plastic, polycarbonate, corrugated board), the door cladding continues in compliance with certain work technologies.
• Decorative finishing of the gate wings is carried out by fixing the finishing elements with self-tapping screws.
• Gate automation - installation work on the installation of automation is carried out when the gate is equipped with forced opening mechanisms.

Types of gates from a profile pipe, their advantages and disadvantages

The choice of this or that type of gate from a profile pipe directly depends on many factors: the type of territory and the characteristics of its use; the presence of various outbuildings; personal requirements for the decorative finish of the fence and gates.

Distinguish two main types of gates:

1. Recoil- such a gate is convenient to equip a site where cars often enter. Sliding gates are equipped with additional automation that allows you to easily and quickly open the entrance to the courtyard or garage without leaving the car. Sliding doors never injure the car, even in the strongest gusty wind; it is not required to clear large areas of snow to open the gate in especially snowy winters. The design is characterized by high strength and durability. The only drawback in the design of sliding gates is the absence. As for making the sashes with your own hands, only a small part of the work is allowed to be done on your own - the sashes are usually purchased in a complete factory assembly.
2. Swing- these gates are not distinguished by a complex design, therefore, their manufacture is within the power of any master. The gate can be equipped with a wicket. To open the doors, a lot of free space is needed, so you should monitor the cleanliness of the road surface, clean up the snow that has fallen in time. Swing gates cannot be fully automated. This type of gate is distinguished by its monumentality, therefore, it is required to monitor the quality of work on the installation and concreting of pillars with special care. The downside of the design is the possible sagging of the shutters under its own weight.

How to weld a gate from a metal pipe: video

Profile pipe gate: photo

The presence of a functional and beautiful gate in the country is a must for every owner of the site. But today there are so many different materials on the market from which you can build a gate that you can easily get confused in them. Of course, you can invite specialists who will do all the work for you. But if you can figure it out on your own, then why pay hired workers? Recently, you can often find metal fences. They have an aesthetic appearance, differ in functionality and fit perfectly into any design. Let's figure out how to build a gate from a profile pipe with our own hands.

Pros and cons of a gate from a professional pipe

The gates made of metal look beautiful and let the rays of the sun pass through themselves. Plus, they do an excellent job of protecting the territory from those who want to break in there without an invitation.

As a raw material for the construction of such gates, a low-alloy steel professional pipe is often chosen, the cross-section of which has a square or rectangular shape of 4x4 or 5x5 centimeters. The pipe wall thickness should be 3 millimeters.

The undoubted advantages of this type of fence are:

• The material is inexpensive. Its low cost, combined with the fact that the fence can be easily erected on its own, significantly save the budget.
• The construction of the professional pipe is strong and durable. If the gate is correctly designed and treated in time with anti-corrosion coatings, then it will serve you for more than a decade.
• The shaped tube can be combined with other materials. The profile pipe is perfectly combined with other building materials, thanks to which you can create an original and stylish entrance. An interesting combination would be pipe and brickwork. In addition, the frame made of shaped pipes can be covered with a metal profile.

The disadvantages of such an entrance include the fact that it is still an open structure that will not hide you from prying eyes. Although, if you sheathe such a structure with a metal profile or translucent polycarbonate, then the problem is solved.

Specialists can create forged ornament and geometric patterns on such gates.

Types of structures

Depending on the manufacturing technology, gates are divided into welded and modular.

Welded entrance structures can be attributed to the most reliable and least expensive options. In this case, the door sections are mounted, adjusted and connected directly during installation. Welding work in this case is perhaps the only difficult moment.

Experts advise that to lighten the load on the supports and welds, pipes that act as lags should have a smaller section.

The second version of the gate is prefabricated structures. They are collected from separate parts right on the territory. Welding work is not required for such a fence. Fence and fence sections are fastened with special clamps.

Various models and design solutions on the market allow you to build a very decent fence and gates for a summer cottage.

Blueprints

First of all, you need to create a sketch of the door sections, on which the sectional nodes will be drawn. It can be created off-scale simply by hand.

Based on the sketches, detailed drawings of the entrance structure are created, on which it is necessary to indicate the dimensions of the future structure as a whole and each of its individual elements. The amount of materials required for the construction of the fence can be calculated using the detailed drawing.

List of raw materials and tools

To build a gate from shaped pipes, you will need to purchase the following materials and tools:

• Load-bearing pipes, the cross-section of which is 5x5 centimeters, and the thickness of the walls is 2.5-3 millimeters.
• Support pillars, the cross-section of which is 6x6 centimeters.
• To equip the veins, you need a 4x3 cm profile.
• Lathing material.
• Bulgarian.
• Welding machine.
• Hammer and clamp.
• Hacksaw for metal.
• Level.
• Shovel.
• Crushed stone.
• Cement mortar.

How to make a gate from a profile pipe with your own hands - step by step

The process of building a fence is conventionally divided into the following stages:

Choosing cladding materials

A gate, the frame of which is welded from a shaped pipe, is usually sheathed with a shaped sheet. There are several reasons for this:

• The professional sheet is not a heavy material, so a fence made of it does not need a solid foundation. It is enough to concrete the support pillars.
• Metal profile is an inexpensive material.
• It has an aesthetic and well-groomed appearance.
• Easy to assemble.
• Durability is another plus of the material.

As a covering, you can also use a netting or other suitable material.

DIY decorative forging elements

Openwork metal forged elements have always been highly appreciated, because each piece is unique and beautiful. The ability to work metal is a whole art that is not available to everyone. Ordering decorative forging elements from a master is quite an expensive pleasure. You can create such elements with your own hands. Moreover, if you master this type of work, then it can turn into your new hobby or even a profitable business.

There are cold and hot forging. The first option provides for heating metal blanks up to nine hundred degrees. This is how steel becomes plastic. Striking it with a sledgehammer or a handbrake hammer, it bends. It can be made thinner and the initial section of the bars can be changed. Cold forging is basically changing blanks without heating them. For this type of work, low-carbon steel is used (not more than 0.25 percent carbon). She is considered to be more malleable. It is processed with special machines and devices.

To create forged elements, in addition to steel, copper and aluminum alloys are also used. They are soft and lightweight, so they can be processed in both ways.

Hot welding is carried out using a forge - a special stove, which, due to blowing, can reach very high temperatures; anvils; sledgehammers; pincers that hold the heated workpiece.

Products with a special shape are made using various shaped hammers, chisels for chopping metal parts and other tools.

Cold forging involves the use of a bent, which is necessary to create curved elements; snails, for bending bars into a spiral; a flashlight, with the help of which such a forging element as a "bump" is created; waves, with the help of which undulating elements are made; twister, on which the prepared element is twisted in the desired direction and the machine to create rings.

In addition to all of the above, it is necessary to acquire a grinder for metal and a welding machine with which the parts will be connected.

Forging making process

As mentioned earlier, for hot forging, metal, in order to be processed, must be heated to a temperature of 800 to 1200 degrees. If the temperature is lower, then the metal workpiece will not be sufficiently plastic, and if the temperature is too high, the product will cease to be strong and may break.

1. Exhaust - the part is lengthened, thus becoming thinner. While stretching the element, it is necessary to beat with a sledgehammer evenly over the entire area of ​​the area that you are pulling. Thus, peaks gradually tapered at the end are made.
2. Disperse - the workpiece is hit from both sides with a hammer. Thus, the acicular peaks are flattened and become leaf-shaped.
3. Anvil horn is used to create radially curved elements.

In order to make a forging element curved, you must do the following:

1. First comes the preparation of the sketch of the volute. It is first drawn on paper, and then the wire is bent over the paper drawing.
2. The wire is straightened and the billet bar is cut off to measure.
3. The tip of the wire heats up to nine hundred degrees, the edge is bent.
4. The execution of the first curl occurs at the edge of the horn of the anvil or at its edge.
5. The entire length of the workpiece is heated and, using a spiral mandrel, it is bent.

To make a "bump" or "flashlight", you need to take 2-4 thin rods, weld the ends together, hammer into a square and clamp in a vice. A tourniquet is made from the other end using a knob. The end must be unscrewed a little, the rods must be disconnected and the end must be hit several times, which thus expands.

The cold forging method involves the same techniques and methods, however, without heating the elements.

Video: how to weld a gate from a professional pipe with your own hands

Thus, the manufacture of a gate from a profile pipe is not so difficult, and the result can be impressive. The most difficult, perhaps, is the forging elements, which do not have to be made by yourself. They can be purchased ready-made and to decorate the structure. Good luck!

As a theater begins with a coat rack, the entrance to a manor begins with a gate. All homeowners are faced with the problem of fencing the site and arranging a convenient entrance to it. Requirements for the wicket: ease of use, beauty, strength and reliable protection of the site from uninvited glances and guests, ease of manufacture and maintenance, durability.

It meets these requirements perfectly. A gate made of a profile pipe with your own hands will serve as a source of pride for the owner and proof of his skill in tinkering.

If you, our dear reader, are reading this article, then the topic of gates is not alien to you either. Here you will find a detailed description of the technology of installation and manufacture of a wicket from a professional pipe. We hope you find this information useful.

Advantages of profile construction:

• strength;
• low cost;
• corrosion resistance (provided that the coating is intact);
• ease of installation and the ability to do it yourself;
• the possibility of the most varied decoration of such a gate - metal sheets, forging, profiled sheet, wood, polycarbonate allow you to choose a design that is ideally suited to the style of the house and the fence.

Swing or sliding?

Structurally, wickets are divided into two types: swing or sliding.

Their advantages and disadvantages are shown in the table:

In general, the choice of the type of wicket is a matter of taste, although many prefer the traditional design on hinges - this is more usual. The main advantages of sliding work - automation and saving space for plowing are not so relevant for small gates.

Drawing and preparation

Any work begins with a drawing. First you need to decide on the installation site and dimensions. The wicket can be placed next to the gate or separately from it, its height can be equal to or less than the height of the fence. With a very high fence, the door can have a height of no more than 2 m (rarely 2 m 10 cm), higher you can make a jumper and sheathe it in the same way as the fence. The width is 0.9-1 m (a smaller width is inconvenient when entering with a load or bags, a larger one also creates inconvenience when opening, requires a more massive frame, there is a possibility of skewing during operation).

Then it is necessary to think over the design of the door and support posts and draw installation diagrams and a drawing of the door construct. This must be done in advance, think over everything, calculate the required amount of materials, purchase and bring them.

Do not forget about PPE: a tarpaulin suit and gloves, a mask with darkened glass are required for welding; boots; for other work - glasses and gloves, rubber gloves and a respirator for painting works.

What tools will you need

List of tools and consumables:

1. garden drill, bayonet shovel, scrap;
2. a concrete mixer or a container for mixing concrete for installing racks;
3. shovel for loading sand and cement, metal buckets;
4. ... For a home craftsman, it is enough to have an inverter welding machine with a welding current of 160-200 A. You can invite a welder - but you can also learn how to cook simple products yourself - it will always come in handy. The welding machine in the estate will quickly pay off - there are always enough small welding works when arranging the garden;
5. tools for drilling holes and tightening self-tapping screws - drill and screwdriver;
6. level, cord, plumb line, construction square;
7. metal ruler 1 m long, tape measure 5 m long;
8. clamps - with their help they assemble the frame during welding, temporarily fix the frame when installing the lock and hinges;
9. brushes;
10. grinder, circles for metal cutting, grinding wheels.

Selection of material

To manufacture a wicket door from steel profiles, the following materials are required:

• steel pipes with dimensions of at least 80 × 80 mm for supporting pillars of a light wicket made of corrugated board, at least 100 × 100 for heavier models; wall thickness not less than 4 mm; you can use a structure of two U-shaped channels welded in the form of a pipe. If one of the pillars simultaneously serves as a support for the gate frame, then a pipe with an even larger section is used;
• steel pipes 60 × 40 or 40 × 40 mm for welding the frame of the wicket, 40 × 20, 32 × 32 mm for lintels;
• colored roofing screws complete with a rubber washer;
• the material for the frame sheathing is a metal sheet with a thickness of 2-3 mm; or corrugated board with a plastic coating with a wave height of 10-12 mm, a sheet thickness of 10-12 mm; or polycarbonate, end profiles for polycarbonate, special adhesive tapes for closing the ends of polycarbonate; if necessary - ready-made forged parts;
• small bushes of steel sheet 4-5 mm thick;
• bricks;
• roofing material;
• loops;
• lock;
• sanding paper;
• cement, sand and crushed stone for concrete;
• gravel or crushed stone (medium fraction);
• weather-resistant paint for outdoor use;
• anticorrosive primer;
• electrodes.

Mounting

Before pouring the installed supports with the foundation, the centers of the foundation holes should be marked. This is done with the help of a cord - it is pulled along the fence, with the help of a tape measure the centers are marked. Then holes are drilled (or dug out - it should be noted that the edges of the dug holes are uneven, and more gravel and concrete will be needed. The depth of the foundation should be equal to or greater than the depth of soil freezing (1200 mm in central Russia). A sand cushion 100 mm, then gravel or fine crushed stone with a thickness of 200 mm is poured in. And sand and crushed stone are compacted. 1200 + 100 + 200 = 1500 mm - minimum pit depth.

Concrete for the foundation is used grades M150 (B10) or M200 (B15). The concrete composition is shown in the table:

Cement 400 can be replaced with cement of 300 or 500. When using 300, the quantity should be increased by 30%; 500 grades - slightly reduce. Concrete with 500 grade cement will harden a little faster.

And the installation of the wicket can be done at the same time - it is easier to align it this way.

Often in the same style as the fence, they arrange a fence for flower beds.

Installation of supports: steel and brick pillars

There are two types of pillars: steel and brick. There must also be a steel core inside the brick pillar - it is impossible to fix the hinges in the brickwork - the brick quickly collapses from constant variable loads. Practically the pillars of bricks are the same pillars made of pipes, lined with bricks.

Blanks from pipes are cut 1200 mm longer than the height of the finished racks. The distance between the supports is equal to the width of the wicket + 10-20 mm. Before installation, the supports were interconnected by jumpers from a pipe or corner at a distance of 800 and 300 mm from the lower edge. For stability, squares of steel sheet with a thickness of 4-5 mm must be welded to the bottom of the pipes. The lower part of the posts is covered with bitumen mastic to a height of 1300 mm.

It is advisable to cover the edges of the pit with roofing material - moisture from the concrete does not go into the ground; concrete after maturation acquires the necessary strength.

The pillars are installed in a pit, the vertical is checked using a building level, and poured with concrete. The poured foundation is carefully pierced with a crowbar or reinforcement - so that air bubbles do not form. It is also advisable to fill the inner part of the pipe with concrete. It is advisable to moisten the concrete surface for several days after pouring. The concrete will gain strength only after 20-24 days, before this time the door cannot be installed.

Before covering the pillar with a brick, a layer of roofing material is laid on the concrete.

Frame welding

Before welding, mark and cut the necessary pieces of pipes for the frame. The length of the main pipes along the perimeter of the frame is equal to the length and width of the wicket - these pipes are cut at an angle of 45 ° (it is more convenient to join the corners this way). Lintel pipes are cut at an angle of 90 °. To improve the quality of the seam, remove rust and burrs before welding.

The construction of the wicket is mounted on a flat, strictly horizontal surface, if there is no suitable table, the surface of the ground will also come down.

It is best to cut an OSB sheet with dimensions 50 mm larger than the length and width of the wicket frame. Before you weld the frame, you should fix the frame details on the sheet with clamps. If there is no suitable sheet, then the frame parts are connected together with clamps. Then be sure to check the correctness of the angles and the location of the parts. The frame is grabbed pointwise at the corners, then the diagonals are checked - they must be the same, and the corners with the help of a square - they must be exactly 90 °. This means that the frame is assembled correctly. Then all joints are welded with a continuous seam on one side.

During welding, the metal heats up very much and can deform, therefore, after each stage of welding, it is necessary to check the linear dimensions of the frame (including the diagonals) and the correctness of the angles.

When welding, it is necessary to take breaks so that the metal has time to cool down and does not "lead".

After welding one side of the frame, they wait until the metal cools down, turn the frame over, remove the clamps, boil the second side of the frame. Cool. Crossbars or jibs (stiffeners) are welded from smaller pipes in accordance with the drawing. The welding procedure is the same as for frame welding. Grind the seams - it is desirable that the weld is not visible.

Installing the frame

The frame is attached to the support post with cylindrical steel hinges. If the weight of the wicket is small, it is enough to use two hinges with a diameter of 30 mm. For heavier wickets with sheet sheathing, 3 hinges are used with support pads made of sheet 4 mm thick and longer than the hinge height. The outer hinges are located at a distance of 200-250 mm from the edge of the frame.

Before welding the chiseled hinges, the frame is pre-installed in the opening of the gate using wedges and a support bar from below.

Places the upper loop in the right place, tack it with spot welding. Then they grab the lower loop, check the correctness of the frame hinge. Boil both loops, remove the timber and wedges. The height of the support posts is checked, trimmed, the upper hole is closed and welded with a piece of metal of the required size.

Sheathing and decor

Before covering and decorating the wicket, the frame and pillars must be sanded, treated with an anti-corrosion primer and painted with two coats of paint. It is advisable to remove the structure of the wicket from the hinges and assemble it on a flat surface (see the paragraph on welding the frame).

There are many options for decorative design of the wicket:

Net

The easiest way to finish a wicket is to cover it with a mesh. Woven or woven mesh is cut to size, welded to the frame and painted.

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate is fixed with self-tapping screws. The polycarbonate is cut out, and the ends are closed with an end profile and special adhesive tapes. The combination of polycarbonate and forged pattern looks beautiful.

Profiled sheet or other metal

The wicket sheathing with a profiled sheet is very popular. The installation of the profiled sheet is carried out in the following sequence: the sheet is cut with a grinder, screwed with colored roofing screws with rubber washers into the lower part of the wave. The edge of the sheet is processed with a file, covered with an anti-corrosion compound and paint.

The gate is sheathed with sheet metal. The installation of the sheet can be welded or threaded - on self-tapping screws. Most often, the sheet is attached to the frame by welding.

Wood

You can sheathe the gate with wooden boards and even bamboo. The boards are sanded, primed with an anti-fungal primer and painted. The bamboo is cut, primed and varnished. Fastened with self-tapping screws.

Forging

The most beautiful designs are obtained from forged parts. Forging work is difficult, but you can buy ready-made forged parts and weld them onto the frame of the gate. The main thing is to think in advance and draw a drawing, and then carefully perform the welding work. Separate parts of the picture can be decorated with paint like gold, the whole picture can be covered with paint like bronze or copper.

Locks

A lock or bolt is installed on the gate. A mortise lock is preferable - it is more difficult to break it when opening the gate outward. At the place of the insert for the lock, a slot is made in the pipe of the gate frame (with a grinder with a small disc). The casing is welded from the sheet and welded to the pipe. The casing protects the lock from burglary and from precipitation. A lock is installed in the slot in the pipe, the attachment points of the self-tapping screws, the cylinder mechanism are outlined, holes are drilled for them in the casing. A lock is being installed. The strike plate of the lock is fixed after the final installation of the wicket - they mark its place, drill holes, screw the bar with self-tapping screws.