Manufacturing of wooden scaffolding. How to make scaffolding with your own hands

Making scaffolding with your own hands is the easiest and cheapest way to do work at height. Let's figure out how to make homemade forests as reliable and sustainable as possible.

Many construction work is required to be carried out at a height. There are several options for getting scaffolding: rent, order production, do it yourself. The latter option saves you a lot of time and money. But the design must be as reliable and safe as possible. We will figure out how to build scaffolding yourself, what material is most preferable and what safety measures must be followed.

Made of wood

Wood is the most widely used material for self-made scaffolding. It has a whole range of advantages:

Ease of processing. Working with metal requires certain skills in welding, working with a professional power tool, etc., which not everyone has. And working with wood is much easier and at an amateur level any builder can handle the processing of this material.
Available tools and fasteners. The work requires the most common set: hammer, screwdriver, screwdriver, hacksaw, drill, screws, nails. All this is available in almost any farm, and if you have to buy something in preparation for work, the costs are low.
Comparative cheapness of the material. Even quality wood will cost less than metal pipes. The benefit becomes especially noticeable when building a large structure.
Reusability. At the end of construction work, wooden scaffolding can be disassembled by putting sawn timber into operation. Metal racks will almost certainly gather dust forever in a utility block or closet. Of course, you can then rent them out, but not everyone will want to tinker with this business.

Important: in the manufacture of scaffolding, it is better to use high-quality wood materials. Firstly, it will increase the reliability of the structure. And secondly, it will allow you to use the materials of the dismantled scaffolding in the future. But waste wood, albeit bought at a low price, then only have to be thrown away.

There are also some disadvantages. The main one is the much lower resistance of wooden structures to assembly and disassembly. After two or three such cycles, all that remains is to put the boards on firewood. Metal structures tolerate disassembly and reassembly much better.

Therefore, wooden structures are the best choice for those who want to build their own house and not engage in construction work in the future. But for those who have plans to build several objects, we recommend opting for metal scaffolding

From a profile pipe

A metal tube frame structure with plank decking would be a good choice for building multiple buildings on the same site or for a small construction company. They also have a number of advantages:

The sectional design allows scaffolding to grow as needed. Such structures are much easier to modernize for new construction tasks.
The ability to quickly dismantle the scaffolding and easily transfer to a new location.
Durability and high strength when properly manufactured.

For scaffolding, aluminum or steel pipes are used. The first option is easier, the second has higher strength and reliability indicators. Therefore, if you plan to work at a high altitude or lift a large load on the scaffolding (heavy tools or several workers per section), it is better to opt for steel racks. The standard section size for such scaffolding is 150 cm high, 100 cm wide and 165-200 cm long (depending on the tasks).

Which is better: nails or screws?

When choosing fasteners, the question always arises: is it better to take nails or screws? Each type of fastener has its own advantages and disadvantages. But the main requirement for fasteners is that it must ensure the reliability of the connection of the scaffold elements. Otherwise, the structure may simply fall apart at the most crucial moment, and this is already very dangerous for the builder.

For high strength, nails are much better suited.

For their manufacture, relatively soft grades of carbon steels are used, therefore, under load, they bend, but do not break off. The brittle hardened steel of self-tapping screws is much harder and can break off under heavy load.

If self-tapping screws are nevertheless chosen, preference should be given to anodized products (they have a greenish-yellow color). Such fasteners are less fragile and can bear loads more easily. However, they will still be more brittle than nails. But it is better not to use "black" self-tapping screws made of hardened steel for assembling scaffolding.

The main complaint about nails is the difficulty in dismantling the scaffolding. To combine the advantages of both types of fasteners, you can use a compromise option: assemble the scaffolding using self-tapping screws, and then strengthen the most problematic joints with nails (2-3 pcs.).

To make it easier to remove the nails, they use this method: they put small pieces of boards of small thickness under them (waste, fragile trimmings can be used). When disassembling, these boards are split, and the protruding nail heads can now be easily picked up with a nail puller.

Required materials and tools

First of all, let us clarify that we are going to talk about making scaffolding from wood. This is the most popular option and the easiest to implement on your own. When working with metal racks, the set of tools will have to be supplemented with a grinder, a welding machine and some other tools.

First of all, you should pay attention to the quality of the lumber used in the work. It is most preferable to use boards and bars, for the manufacture of which the spruce went. The strength of pine wood is about the same, but pine boards should be carefully checked for knots. Pine knots grow in whorls, in such places the wood is greatly weakened. But carefully selected pine lumber will perform just as well as spruce.

It is very easy to check the strength of the board. Fold two posts of three bricks each and place a board on top of them. Stand on top of the board and jump several times. If the board does not break, it is quite capable of supporting your weight as part of the scaffolding structure.

The main elements from which wood scaffolding is assembled are as follows:

Boards with a thickness of 40 - 50 mm. They will be used for the manufacture of flooring.
Beam 100 mm x 100 mm. It is used to make racks, thrust braces and other load-bearing structural elements. You can replace such a bar with a board. The width of the board should be 100 mm or more, and the thickness should be 50 m.
Board 30 mm thick (edged) is used for the production of screeds, railings, spacers.

You need to make sure that all lumber is thoroughly dried. The fact is that poorly dried wood can change its shape and distort the structure. And raw wood weighs more. Since the scaffolding is a temporary structure, it is not necessary to pickle the boards with fungicidal compounds and stain.

In addition to lumber, you will need the following set of tools and fasteners:

Measuring tool: tape measure, level, pencil for marking.
Saw for cutting boards and beams. You can get by with a regular hacksaw, but a circular saw is much better suited to save time.
Fasteners: nails 120 mm, self-tapping screws 120 - 150 mm.
Assembly tools: drill for drilling holes, screwdriver, screwdriver, hammer, nail puller.

If self-tapping screws are used to assemble the scaffolding, it is better to drill holes of a smaller diameter for them before tightening. This reduces the risk that the board will burst when screwed in.

The set of materials for the construction of wooden scaffolding is quite easy to find. But in order not to be distracted in the process of work, you need to prepare everything and carefully check it in advance.

DIY scaffolding. Step-by-step instruction

Scaffolding is assembled in several stages:

The assembly process does not present any particular difficulties. But at each stage, you need to do everything as carefully as possible, checking the strength of each connection and the correct installation of all elements.

To work on hand-made scaffolds, it was safe, and the assembly process was quick, we recommend listening to the experience of professional builders:

If there is even the slightest doubt that the strength of the scaffolding is not enough, take the effort and material to install an additional stop or strengthen the connection.
You should not endlessly get carried away with increasing the height of the forests. Safely wooden scaffolding can carry no more than three tiers. If you need higher ones, use metal structures.

Self-built wooden scaffolding is an excellent solution for building your own house or carrying out renovations. When properly erected, they are quite safe, and after the construction is completed, they can be disassembled by putting the boards for other needs.

Any construction of a house or facade work is not complete without the use of scaffolding. As a rule, scaffolding is made of wood or metal. The easier to manufacture, of course, wood scaffolding. For the durability of the structure and to strengthen its strength, metal is chosen.

It all depends on the task and the required durability of specific scaffolds. The larger the working area, the more attention should be paid to strength. For the construction of private houses or adjoining structures, scaffolding is created with a height of 2.5 meters and a width of 1 m. It is better not to build a structure above 6 meters, because an increase in the height of the structure reduces its stability.

The standard design assumes the use of the following components:

Boards for flooring and lintels 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick Bars for uprights and stops measuring 10x10 cm Nails or self-tapping screws (for small structures).

Spacers are made between the legs to give strength to the structure. Racks are fastened with flooring and jumpers. To move between the levels of the scaffolding (up and down), steps are made from beams fixed on racks, or a ladder is used.

Metal structures are assembled from steel or aluminum pipes. This requires the following materials:

Pipes for spacers with a diameter of 15 mm. Profile tube for racks with a diameter of 30 mm. Connecting adapters are made of a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. Required tools for connecting all components: drill, welding machine, etc.

Pipes 15 mm. cut into 2 meters, and their ends are flattened.

Out of 30 mm. pipes are made in sections 0.75 m in size (the length of one jumper) and 1.5 m.

The components of the structure are fastened together by welding or bolting. Jumpers are fixed crosswise on both sides. When one section is ready, you can build up the next.

Safety must be paramount during construction work, so do not try to assemble and disassemble the scaffold more than two or three times. They lose strength from reusable assemblies.

Always check the strength of the assembly before starting work.

The need for scaffolding arose along with the need to build or decorate buildings more than two storeys high.

The first such structures were made of wood, which is why they got the name of scaffolding. They are built around a building that needs to be renovated and come in different types. Let's consider the most common types of scaffolding.

Wooden scaffolding

Wood has long been widely used in construction, and it can be used to build scaffolding for finishing and repair work at low heights. Typically this type of forest is used for private houses or low-rise buildings. Since this type of scaffolding is the simplest and easiest to implement, we present the technology for their manufacture.

For the construction of wooden scaffolding, you will need boards of 150x50 mm, half a meter long, pieces of thin boards of 25x100 mm, two long boards-fifty for supports and long boards of the required length for horizontal flooring.

First, triangular supports for the scaffolds are knocked together from scraps of fifty, and then they are sheathed with thinner boards. The dimensions of the support triangles should be chosen based on the following factors: the support should not move away from the wall under the builder's weight and its own weight, and there should also be enough space for a standing worker on the platform. In this regard, usually the length of the scaffold is chosen 400-500 mm, and the worker's feet should not sag beyond the flooring.

The supports are attached to the supports at sharp angles.

In this case, the upper end of the support is cut so as to insert it inside the support triangle, and the lower part is sharpened to anchor in the ground. After that, the scaffolding is brought to the desired position and the vertical part of the triangular supports is fastened to the wall with nails, without hammering them into the very caps, because then, after the end of the work, they will need to be removed. Then they put a ladder and begin to nail the floorboards to the supports, in this case the nails are driven in until they stop.

Before starting construction work, you should make sure that the structure is stable, and in general, wooden scaffolding should not be made higher than seven meters.

Metal scaffolding

They are made from aluminum or steel pipes, and there are two options for such structures: modular and frame. The modular types include suspended, wedge, clamp and modular (system) scaffolding. Among the frame scaffolding, pin, flag and tower-rounds are distinguished.

All metal scaffolding requires anchoring to the walls of the building, and without such an attachment, the height of the scaffolding should not be more than four meters, provided that the base under the scaffolding is perfectly horizontal and compacted.

Let's consider the main types of metal scaffolding.

Flag (frame) scaffolding

Such structures can withstand loads up to 200 kg / sq.

meter. They consist of side frames, racks for horizontal and diagonal fastening of the sidewalls to each other and shoes for ground support. The dimensions of such scaffolds may differ depending on the manufacturer, but the construction scheme is the same.

These scaffoldings are easy to assemble and inexpensive, so they are very common. The frame scaffold fasteners are inserted into the holes specially designed for this and fixed by turning. In the vertical plane, the parts are connected by inserting the frame into the groove below the element located.

Tower tour

These scaffolds can withstand a load of 200 kg / sq.

meter. Such structures are often used for the repair and decoration of individual sections of building facades. Since it is quite expensive to build scaffolding around the entire building, and it takes a long time to assemble and disassemble them, use a tower-tour.

It is a construction of their ready-made frames with a ladder, wheels are attached to its base. If frames with a height of more than 4 meters are used, then additional spacers are attached to the frame of the first tier, and if the tiers of the tower are brought out to 2/3 of the maximum height, then it is attached to the wall of the building with brackets or anchors. Such tour towers can be from 4 to 21 meters high and differ in the number of tiers.

Pin scaffolding

Used with a maximum load of 200 kg / sq.

meter. The horizontal elements of their structure are fastened with pins, which are inserted into hollow lugged pipes on vertical posts. Each level of scaffolding is assembled in stages, and the lower ends of the supports of the racks are inserted into the shoes.

For greater rigidity, diagonal braces are used. They can be mounted up to a height of 40 meters and are most often used for masonry work. These scaffoldings are made of steel tubes with a large wall thickness, and therefore they are capable of experiencing heavy loads.

Wedge scaffolding

Such structures with a standard load of 200-300 kg / sq.

meter have a more complex design than the above options. Their elements are fixed with steel wedges, hammered in. This increases the strength of the scaffolding, because they are used under heavy loads.

The special wedge shape prevents wedging. Flanged 8-hole post locks are also used. Such scaffolding is used at a height of up to 40 meters for high-rise construction and finishing works.

Clamp scaffolding

Their standard load is 200-250 kg / sq. meter.

All elements are connected on clamps (rotary or blind), into which the girders and stands are inserted, followed by fastening with threaded bolts. The disadvantages include the complexity of assembly, but at the same time, such scaffolding can be mounted to a height of 80 meters. Clamp scaffolding can also be used to work with complex architectural elements such as arches and domes.

What type of scaffolding to choose depends, first of all, on the purpose of their application. So, for work at high heights, pin or clamp scaffolds are used, and for construction and finishing work at low heights, frame scaffolding is used.

Estimate the manufacturing method:

The height of a person is less than the height of the house, therefore, it is impossible to perform wall masonry or facade decoration without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to work safely at heights and make it possible to always have a stock of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such fixtures.

They call forests sufficiently long and high structures. Scaffolds "goats" are usually called low portable tables, which can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what kind of scaffolding or scaffolding you will need for work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their structures contain elements that are identical in purpose:

Vertical struts (take the work load and transmit it to the ground) .Diagonal and horizontal screeds (provide spatial rigidity of the frame) Lintels (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid) Flooring (boards knocked together, serving as a working platform for builders) .Support slopes (prevent scaffolding from tipping over). Railings (protect workers from falling). Ladders (used for lifting and lowering from work sites).

The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. A wooden structure is cheaper than steel, but it can withstand no more than two or three re-assemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.

Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wooden scaffolding, but there are no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easy to dismantle and move to a new location. Their design allows to build up additional tiers in the course of work, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-rise work will be carried out only once and at one object, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

Before starting the procurement of parts for assembly, a schematic drawing should be made and the main dimensions of the structure should be put on it.

There is no need to fantasize here, since the construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of the scaffolding:

the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters; the distance between the posts is from 2.0 to 2.5 meters; the width of the working floor is 1 meter.

Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the hands of the builder during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, the jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This saves you the hassle of hammering together low scaffolding.

It is better to provide fastenings for the flooring of the second level at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at the level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

For cutting racks and thrust braces - a beam with a section of 10x10 cm or boards with a width of at least 10 cm and a thickness of 5 cm. Spacers, ties and railings can be made of edged board "thirty". For the flooring and lintels on which it will lie, boards will be required 4-5 cm thick.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, keep in mind that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling the scaffolding.

Self-tapping screws, on the other hand, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they work worse than nails for fracture, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, it is possible to recommend the use of nails, and for long and high structures - self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is collected in the following order:

on a flat area, parallel to each other, lay 4 racks of a bar or board, cut "to size" according to the height of the scaffolding; racks are tied with horizontal jumpers, on which the working floor will be laid; and horizontal ties; on the horizontal lintels they put a flooring made of boards and fix it; the scaffolds are fixed on two side slopes-stops; railings are nailed onto the racks, a ladder is attached and fixed for lifting.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide pieces of boards, stuffing them onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before driving. Scaffolding from a profile pipe is similar in design to wood.

The difference between the two lies in the use of adapters. They are used to increase the "number of storeys" of a metal structure. A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements: Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 sections of 1.5 m and 4 sections of 1 meter). Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter 20 mm (4 sections of 2 meters for diagonal ties). Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 sections of 10 cm for the manufacture of adapters and thrust bearings). For the manufacture of handrails, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long Steel plates 10x10 cm thick 2-3 mm (4 pieces) for thrust bearings; 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting diagonal ties together and attaching them to the frame posts. The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolds consists of several operations: the scaffold racks are rigidly fixed to the assembly board (OSB sheet) with clamps (high accuracy when working with metal is a very important factor); horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks; adapters are inserted into the upper ends of the racks by 5 cm from pipe scraps and fix them by welding; removing the racks with jumpers from the assembly board, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the board with clamps; the ends and middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal stretching are flattened with a hammer and holes are drilled in them for bolts; tightening with a bolt two diagonal ties in the middle, they are placed on the posts and mark the places for drilling holes; tie and fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts; holes for bolted connections are drilled on the racks and handrails; plates (thrust bearings) are welded to the pipe sections; the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes; flooring from the "forty" board is laid on the side jumpers .Useful advice: to prevent the longitudinal displacement of the flooring to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels, you need to screw steel corners 30x30 mm. Diagonal ties must be fixed on one sidewall of the scaffold, and horizontal ties on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly. scaffolding is carried out with building up the section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for attaching the profile pipe of the thrust miter, which protects the structure from falling. In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with others sections (when building up scaffolding in length) .Video

All photos from the article

When carrying out various works at a height - from laying walls to cladding the facade or applying plaster, it is necessary to build structures that will allow you to perform work comfortably and at the same time ensure safety.

Professional builders use metal scaffolding, which is a pre-fabricated modular system that can have a wide variety of sizes, but for private use it is easier to build a structure from boards, this is what we will consider in the article.

What is required for work

Before you build scaffolding from planks with your own hands, you need to prepare all the required materials and tools:

Racks	For them, either a board with a size of 50x100 mm or a wooden beam with a section of 100x100 mm is used, these elements will carry the main load and hold the entire structure, therefore, only high-quality lumber should be used without large knots, damage from woodworms and rot, this is very important to ensure safety
Decking and lintels	For these elements, a board with a thickness of 40-50 mm is used, it is important here that the flooring can easily withstand the weight of several people and a small supply of materials (if necessary)
Spacers	Elements that give rigidity and preserve the geometry of the structure being erected are made of a board with a thickness of 30-32 mm, it is also used to create fences, which are mandatory to ensure a safe work process, because it is never excluded that someone will slip or stumble on the scaffolding
Fasteners	Either nails or thick self-tapping screws are used to ensure maximum reliability and strength of all joints. You can also use a modern version - fastening corners and plates, with their help, the structure can be made even more reliable and durable, besides, the price of these elements is low

Important!
Do not forget about the tool, as you will need to cut wood, hammer in nails or twist self-tapping screws, as well as take measurements, for this the easiest way is to use a tape measure, a square and a construction pencil.

The working process

The instruction on how to make scaffolding with your own hands from boards is quite simple, it is important to follow all the recommendations and requirements, it is with them that we will begin to consider the issue.

Basic design requirements

There are several generally accepted rules, the observance of which guarantees the reliability of the forests you collect and ensures the highest safety:

The distance between the posts should not exceed 2-2.5 meters, since with a longer span, the wood will not be able to provide adequate rigidity, especially under high loads;
The width of the decks to ensure comfortable work should be at least 1 meter, but making the structure wider than one and a half meters is also not recommended, as the stability of the system will suffer;
The maximum safe height of the structure is 6 meters, this is due to the fact that the maximum length of sawn timber is the same, and it is not recommended to build up elements.

Stages of work

The whole process consists of several operations that must be performed in a specific sequence:

First you need to connect the first 4 racks, for this, first the long side is fastened, this is done with the help of diagonal spacers, the second element is assembled in the same way, after which the end sides are connected with the help of all the same spacers, then the resulting structure must be placed and checked for stability, if necessary, it is reinforced with additional jumpers and perforated corners;

Next, you need to fix the jumpers, their location depends on the level at which the work will be performed. It is important to calculate everything correctly in order to ensure the convenience of the process, if two rows of flooring are used, respectively, two rows of jumpers are made, they will also serve as elements providing rigidity, for additional reinforcement of the support it makes sense to fasten it to corners with stiffeners;
The flooring is arranged along the fixed lintels, for its device, only a reliable board is taken without cracks and damage, it is necessary to cut it into pieces of the required length so that excess parts do not stick out at the edges, these elements are best fastened with self-tapping screws, since the wood cracks from them much less, and fixation is obtained much better;

Next, you need to attach the fence elements, their location directly depends on the place of the decks. The general rule is that the elements should not be below the waist level, sometimes it makes sense to nail in two rows of boards to provide even more safety. Here lumber is used with a thickness of at least 30 mm, so that, if necessary, it can withstand a sufficiently large force and not break;
The next step is to install the support elements, their number and configuration depends on the characteristics of a particular situation, the height of the forests and the reliability of the soil around the house. Here it is important to learn one simple rule - as many supports are installed as necessary to ensure the best stability of the system you have built. The elements rest well against the soil, after which they are attached to the support posts;

Advice!
If the structure is wooden, then for additional reliability the system is attached to the walls, this will significantly strengthen the structure, everything is very simple: the bar is fixed with one end on the rack, and the other on the wall.

It is difficult to imagine a construction site without scaffolding. They are used to erect and decorate walls, make a roof, install gutters, etc. In each case, they must be strong and reliable. If it is expensive to rent factory-made scaffoldings, make scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands. This is often done in individual construction, where the height of houses rarely exceeds two floors. How to assemble these simple structures, this article will tell you.

Types of scaffolding

The scaffolding is made entirely of wood or metal pipes combined with planks.

On a note! Homemade scaffolding should not be heavily stressed. More than 2 people are not allowed to stand on them at the same time.

Scaffold materials

For the construction of frame scaffolding, steel struts and frames are required. The flooring in them is made of wooden planks. Aluminum structures are lighter and less load-bearing. The following sizes are recommended for one section:

height - 150 cm,
width - 100 cm,
length - 165-200 cm.

The number of sections determines the height of the building and the perimeter of the exterior walls of the house.

An uncomplicated version of homemade scaffolds

Before proceeding with the assembly of the frame scaffold, the following materials should be purchased:

profile for uprights with a square section of 3x3 cm and a length of 150 cm;
pipe (diameter 15 mm) for horizontal and diagonal spacers;
profile for connecting inserts with a square section of 2.5x2.5 cm (the flooring rests on them) and fences;
flooring boards 2-2.5 m long and 4-5 cm thick;
a ladder for lifting (if there is no finished product, it is assembled from a profile and placed between the side posts);
bolts with nuts and washers for connecting structural elements;
self-tapping screws for fastening wooden elements.

Note! In the course of work, you will have to use a hacksaw for metal or a grinder, a drill with a drill for metal, a welding machine. Connections can also be made with special threaded fasteners.

Frame construction rules

Before starting the assembly of the scaffolding, you should carefully compact the ground in the area where they are located. When carrying out work in a rainy season, it is advisable to make a drainage system. So the soil under the scaffold will not be washed out, and the structure will remain initially strong and reliable. For the stability of the structure, boards are placed under the support posts.

Wooden frames are designed for light weight

Important! Even a small backlash in the joints or not completely screwed on the thread can cause the scaffold to tilt or collapse, and this poses a danger to human life.

Homemade scaffolding from a profile pipe is assembled in this sequence.

Cut pipe blanks - for diagonal struts 2 meters long, and for horizontal ones - 1 meter. Two-meter spacers are cut 7-8 cm at each end and flattened out. In the future, this will make it easier to connect the parts to the profile.
Connect the two vertical struts together with spacers. Make sure they are in a horizontal position.
Connect the horizontal sections of the scaffolding with ties (the distance between them should be 30 cm). Subsequently, you will lay the boards on them.
Fasten the connectors.
Drill bolt holes on the supports and uprights.
Finally, assemble the structure from the profile pipe (fix the boards with self-tapping screws).
Clean the scaffolding and paint it over.
Check with the drawings, which were used to make scaffolding from pipes with your own hands.

On a note! Temporary structures from several sections are connected by adapters. To do this, cut off 8-10 cm of pipes with a section of 3x3 cm, thread a section of a profile with a section of 2.5x2.5 cm into it. The parts are connected by welding.

Feasibility of structures

Some people are worried about whether it is advisable to make scaffolding on their own. As an argument not in their favor, the following arguments are given.

Scaffolding is not a small structure like goat scaffolds. And this bulky structure will need to be stored somewhere after the completion of the construction.

After the completion of the work, the wooden scaffolds are disassembled, but this takes a lot of time. Boards, if they are not urgently needed, will also have to be folded somewhere. It should be borne in mind that wood scaffolding is knocked down with nails, and not collected using self-tapping screws. After such a disassembly, the boards will not remain intact, moreover, they are often stained with mortar or paint.

Temporary structures of their pipes can be borrowed and rented

Note! DIY metal scaffolding can be rented out.

Self-made construction scaffolds are used for works that are carried out at a height not higher than the second floor. With a higher number of storeys, the use of such forests is associated with a danger to the life of workers.
The need for this design rarely arises (when renovating the facade). In this case, you have to spend a lot of time on its assembly and disassembly, which may seem unprofitable.
Long, temporary structures made from shaped pipes are often required. They are distinguished by their considerable weight and it is difficult to rearrange them even for a group of 3-4 people.

Homemade scaffolding from a profile pipe is a matter of personal choice. They help at different stages of construction and after the completion of the construction they can be rented out. So you will pay off your labor and materials.

Video: homemade scaffolding

Or the production of such construction work as painting the facade or filing cornices, scaffolding is widely used.

Currently it is possible to rent inventory scaffolding or scaffolding and return it upon completion of the work. But this is justified only when performing work that takes a short period of time. If the construction is carried out exclusively on its own and for a long enough time, then the rent will be very expensive. Therefore, most of the future property owners prefer to make their own scaffolding.

Most often, private traders use the following types of forests:

Scaffolds, supported by tragus - are suitable for such "fast" works as painting the facade of a not too high house, eaves eaves of the roof.
Scaffolding envelopes are used mainly in the construction of a house.
Attached wooden frame scaffolding is good for both construction and home renovation.

Gantry platform

Tragus is often used not only in construction, but also in interior and exterior decoration of a house. Their advantages are:

cheapness;
ease of manufacture;
light weight;
mobility.

Such a scaffold consists of two tragus, hammered from boards, and a flooring, which can be either just a set of separate boards, cut to length, or a one-piece hammered board shield. The use of a shield allows you not to worry about the boards "fraying" under your feet.

To make tragus you need:

edged board 30 - 50 mm thick;
nails or screws;
to tie the parts together, you can use steel corners 50 * 50 mm (if any);
drill or screwdriver;
hammer;
roulette.

Previously, it is advisable to throw in a simple sketch with dimensions in order to properly cut and prepare the parts for assembly. The central bar of the tragus can be either just a thick board or a structure of three boards like a channel, to which the legs are sewn at an angle.

With greater rigidity, the legs can be pulled together with crossbars, and jibs can be nailed from the ends. The length of the deck depends on how large the platform needs to be. But do not make the flooring too long, otherwise you will have to put another tragus in the center.

Envelope scaffolding

This is a structure that attaches directly to the wall.

The main structural part of such scaffolding is triangular support platforms made of boards with a thickness of 50 mm. They are L-shaped brackets, sheathed on the sides with a plank (25 * 100 mm). The size of one shelf of such a bracket usually does not exceed 400 mm. This is due to the fact that the shelf is a support for the working platform. A smaller size can lead to a lack of space on the scaffolding, and a larger one can cause the structure to come off the wall and, as a result, injure people working on the scaffolding.
The brackets are fixed to the wall at the height where the working platform is planned to be installed. They are usually fixed with nails, pressing the vertical arm of the bracket against the wall.
Additionally, the brackets are propped up with long boards - props with a section of 100 * 50 mm, installed at an angle and resting on the ground. For better grip on the ground, the lower ends of the struts are sharpened.

The wood for the manufacture of envelopes must be of high quality, this provides the structure with sufficient reliability.

Wood scaffolding

Most often, for in the low-rise sector, wooden scaffolding is used, consisting of a support system and flooring. They serve both to raise workers to the required height, and to place building materials and tools on them.
Forests can be significant and multi-tiered. There are some general requirements that apply to all scaffolds and scaffolds:

They must be reliable. The margin of their strength should allow without problems to withstand the weight of the materials and workers placed on them.
The design should be economical, but not at the expense of reliability.
The design of the scaffolding should be simple and convenient not only for operation, but also for assembly and disassembly.
It is desirable that the scaffold and scaffolding material can be reused at the end of construction.

The simplest scaffolding structure consists of the following elements:

Support posts - vertical supports, which can be made of high-quality edged boards (100 * 50 mm) or timber (100 * 100 mm). It is important that the boards and beams are intact, free from rot, cracks and insect damage. If necessary, the racks can be spliced lengthwise. The elements are joined end-to-end and fixed with side plates.
Crossbars - it is they who, perceiving the load from the working platform, transfer it to the racks. The same requirements apply to the material of the cross members as for the uprights. They should be a single unit. If splicing is necessary, then it is performed with additional support.
Braces - connect the racks diagonally. They can be made from slats or even slabs.
Flooring - ladders laid on crossbars. They are the main work surface.

Edged or non-edged boards can be used. From above, the flooring can be sewn up with sheet material. To prevent materials and tools from falling from the flooring, a side board is sewn on its outer part. To give the structure more stability, it can be supported by slopes, which are made from a board with a thickness of 25 - 30 mm.

Scaffolding rules

For scaffolding, you will need the following tool:

saw;
level;
hammer.

When erecting wooden scaffolding, the following rules must be observed:

Before installing the scaffolding, it is necessary to level and tamp the base. , then to support the racks it is necessary to make wooden platforms.
The spacing of the racks can be 1 - 2 m.
Each structural unit must have at least three attachment points.
It is better to use large self-tapping screws as fasteners. If nails are used for this, then they must be bent on the back side.
On the inside of the racks, it is necessary to install handrails to prevent workers from falling from the scaffolding.
For the convenience of work, the width of the flooring between the posts should be from 50 to 100 cm.

The order of work

The scaffolding is assembled in the following sequence:

First, using diagonal ties, the racks are fastened together. For reliability, you can use not only nails and screws, but also corners.
Then, the elements of the cross members are fixed at the required height.
Planks of horizontal flooring are fixed on them.
The railings are sewn on.
If it is necessary to give the structure additional stability, slopes are installed.
To climb the scaffolding, it is also necessary to fix it on the side of the scaffolding, although ladders can also be used.

For greater reliability, using additional wooden elements, the scaffolding can be connected to the wall of the house.

If you are in your own power and fear that difficulties may arise when collecting home-made forests, you can choose the option of renting prefabricated scaffolding.