Do-it-yourself toilet installation. How to install a toilet with your own hands: installation instructions and expert advice

You will need:

toilet bowl with cistern and fittings;
a set of fasteners and a flexible hose;
eccentric cuff or corrugation;
adapter collar 123 × 110 mm (for connection to a cast-iron socket);
gas burner or construction hair dryer (to disconnect the cast iron pipe);
tile adhesive or repair compound (for sealing a hole in the floor);
hammer drill or hammer drill;
drill for concrete with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm;
drill for tiles 8 or 10 mm;
a set of wrenches and a hacksaw;
hammer and dowels;
tape measure and marker;
screwdrivers and knife;
silicone sealant and rags;
bucket and sponge;
multipurpose grease WD ‑ 40 or similar (if necessary).

If you are installing a new toilet, and not changing, go to the next step.

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Turn off the tap at the entrance to the tank or (if not) the tap at the entrance to the apartment. Remove the hose and then press the drain button. Fill a bucket of water and quickly pour it into the toilet, so that the remains of sewage inside the siphon. Use a sponge to remove the water from the bowl.

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Unscrew the toilet fixing screws that secure the toilet to the floor. Use a sharp knife to cut the sealant around the base of the bowl. Remove the corrugation from the siphon outlet and move the toilet aside. And plug the sewer bell with a bag or rag so that the smell does not penetrate the room.

If the plumbing is very old, the dismantling process will be more difficult. First unscrew the mounting bolts, spray them with WD ‑ 40 if necessary. Then, with a screwdriver, crush the cement embossing along the perimeter of the cast-iron sewer pipe, preheating it with a burner or a construction hairdryer, and remove the toilet.

Sometimes it is easier to split ancient plumbing with a hammer or puncher, and then remove the fragments from the sewer pipe. When deciding on drastic measures, do not forget to wear safety glasses.

Use a repair compound or tile adhesive to fill the gap and wait 6-12 hours until it cures completely.

3. Assemble the tank fittings

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Unpack the toilet and read the instructions carefully. Spread all the parts out on cardboard from the box so as not to scratch. Slide the tapered gaskets over the threads of the drain and filler valves with the narrow end towards the holes.

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Install the valves in place and tighten the plastic nuts by hand, then another quarter turn with a wrench. Make sure that the drain valve does not touch the sides of the tank (otherwise the float will stall and will not block the water when filling). To do this, check its movement by hand or turn the tank over.

4. Place the tank on the bowl

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Place the largest rubber pad on the shelf and place the tank on top, aligning the mounting holes. Slide the tapered washers over the bolts with the narrow side down and insert the fasteners into the holes.

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Install plastic and metal washers underneath, and then tighten the nuts evenly by hand so that the reservoir fits without distortion. Place the lid on the tank, insert and hand tighten the drain button.

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Next, decide on the location of the new toilet. Move the bowl into place, try to sit down. To save space, you can press against the wall as much as possible, but not close - it is advisable to leave a gap of 2-3 cm between it and the tank.

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Align the drain with the sewer socket. If you are using a straight pipe for the connection, measure with a tape measure and cut the required piece. Use a knife to remove the burrs around the edge. If you use a corrugation or an eccentric cuff, try on how they become.

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Remove the bag or rag from the drain. Lubricate the O-ring in the socket with soap or and insert the pipe into it, and then into it - the toilet bowl drain. Install the corrugation or eccentric cuff in the same way.

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On the old cast-iron sewerage system, first insert a special transition collar with a diameter of 123 × 110 mm into the cleaned and lubricated socket with a sealant. For reliability, you can additionally coat the joint of the plastic pipe with the cuff with silicone.

7. Attach the toilet to the floor

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Slide the bowl into place and mark the mounting holes on the floor with a marker. If there are hidden brackets in the toilet, circle the bottom around the perimeter, and then measure the required distance from the edges according to the drawing in the instructions.

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Drill holes in the floor. First the tiles with a special ceramic drill and then with the appropriate drill. Remove dust and insert dowels into the holes.

Apply silicone with a snake around the perimeter of the toilet, not reaching the edge of 2–3 cm, and wait about 20 minutes until it hardens slightly.

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Then put the plumbing in place and, putting plastic washers on the fastening bolts, tighten them with a wrench. Do not overdo it so that the ceramic does not burst - it is better to tighten the fasteners later if necessary. Place the decorative caps over the bolt heads.

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Fill the junction of the bowl with the tiles with sealant. Remove excess with your finger or tissue and let dry. It is better to use transparent silicone, as the white will turn yellow and dirty over time.

If there are pipes under the tiles, or if you cannot drill through the tiles for other reasons, you can simply glue the toilet bowl onto the silicone.

To do this, the surface must be perfectly flat, clean and dry, and before using new plumbing, you must wait at least a day until the sealant has completely solidified.

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Use a flexible hose to connect the filler valve union to the tap next to the tank. Position the hose so that kinks and strains are avoided. Tighten the nuts with a wrench, but not very tightly - they only press the rubber gaskets.

9. Install the toilet seat

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Assemble the hardware. If the mounts have left and right marks, do not mix them up. Insert the rubber grommets into the holes, install the eccentrics on top and adjust the distance between them according to the width of the toilet seat holes.

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Tighten the mounting bolts with plastic washers from below. Put the decorative pads on the rubber part of the eccentrics and install the cover on them until you hear a click.

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Open the tap on the tank, wait for it to fill and make sure the valve is shutting off the water supply. Press the drain button. Make sure that there are no flexible connections on the nuts, as well as the connection of the drain to the pipe or corrugation and the drainage outlet.

Choosing a mounting method

All modern models of toilet bowls suggest external or internal fastening to the floor using dowels to any solid surface. A set of fasteners with decorative caps usually comes with the product. There are holes on the bowl itself. Please note that a layer of silicone sealant or a rubber gasket is applied between the floor and the base of the bowl for added strength and tightness.

Installing a toilet bowl on taffeta

If during the repair process you find a wooden board - taffeta under the old toilet bowl, do not even think about changing it to a new one, and even more so leaving the old one. Once this method of installation was widely practiced in private housing construction and in apartments, but today it is found only when installing a toilet bowl on a wooden base.

Taffeta is a piece of solid wood, treated with linseed oil or water-repellent compounds, up to 30 mm thick, or a thick rubber backing cut to the shape of a toilet leg. After removing the taffeta, level the recess in the floor with a cement mixture and tile with tiles. Then install the new toilet properly on the wall plugs.

Installation of a toilet bowl on an adhesive composition

Professional plumbers do not recognize this installation method, they do not consider it reliable. Although in rare cases they have to limit themselves. For example, if warm water floors are arranged under the tiles, and the scheme is lost. Of course, you can wet the tiles and turn on the heating, see where the water dries up in the first place and roughly determine the places where the pipes pass. But due to the high margin of error, not every plumber is willing to take risks. The same goes for slow, careful drilling until the first red shavings appear on the drill.

Along the contour of the base of the toilet before applying epoxy, it is advisable to stick a masking tape to make it easier to remove excess glue and silicone

It remains to glue the toilet with epoxy glue. The sequence of work is similar to installation on a tile with the difference that instead of silicone, glue is applied between the leg of the bowl and the floor, and the stage with drilling the floor is skipped.

Tools and materials required for work

To install a new toilet, you will need the following set of tools and materials:

hammer drill (hammer drill) and drills corresponding to the diameter of the fasteners. If you have to drill a tile, pick up drill bits for tiles or victorious ones (usually 8 or 10 mm.);
hammer;
set of wrenches;
adjustable wrench;
screwdrivers with a cross-head or flat blade;
sanitary sealant;
silicone plumbing grease;
FUM tape, water pipe gaskets, marker or pencil;
rags (needed to wipe the seams after applying silicone and other cleaning).

Sewer couplings and transitions: what to choose

The outlet of the toilet is not directly connected to the sewer socket. Even if they match perfectly, use a clutch. The connecting elements are made of plastic or rubber and provide for the installation of a toilet, provided that the sewer pipes are replaced with plastic ones. If you have to connect the plumbing to a cast-iron socket, purchase a transition sleeve.

The drain sleeve is suitable if the toilet bowl drain can be placed close to the sewer hole.
An eccentric collar is used if the bell and outlet are slightly off-axis.
The corrugated pipe is used in all cases when it is impossible to install the toilet close to the socket.
The plastic bend at 45 or 90 degrees provides a rigid connection, provided that the location of the plumbing and the socket matches the bend of the pipe. The bend is an alternative to corrugated pipe.
An O-ring will be required for vertical outlet.

1 - corrugated pipe; 2 - eccentric cuff; 3 - PVC knee 90 ° and cuff

Preparatory work and markup

Before starting the installation, make sure that you have everything ready for installation: the new toilet is complete and has been checked for defects, you have all the necessary tools, fasteners and connecting elements at hand. It is advisable to install a separate tap on the cold water supply pipe through which water will be supplied to the toilet. The socket of the sewer pipe is thoroughly cleaned and degreased by the time of installation. The connecting corrugation or sleeve must match the size of the socket on one side and outlet on the other.

Connect the toilet bowl to the sewer through a sleeve (without sealant) and mark it. Trace the base of the bowl with a marker and mark the drilling points for the dowels through the mounting holes. Now move the toilet to the side for a while.

Advice! Before connecting the water and the first test run, it is better to close the toilet bowl neck with a rag or a piece of foam rubber, because without a water seal, the smell from the sewer pipe will make its way into the house.

Installation sequence

The preparation was finished by marking the place of installation of the bowl and the points of drilling for fasteners. Now drill holes in the floor and drive dowels into them. All joints, especially where the silicone will be, degrease and wipe dry. Assemble the cistern and place it on the toilet bowl.

Connect the toilet to the drain. First, put the corrugation or sleeve up to the edge of the elastic into the sewer hole and align as much as possible for a snug fit of the walls. Place a sealant on the place where the bowl is installed, or apply a thick layer of silicone and install the toilet base on it. Lubricate the free side of the corrugation with silicone grease and put it on the equipment outlet. Align the toilet, secure to the floor with gasket bolts. Tighten the fasteners consistently and carefully to avoid cracking the bowl.

To install the toilet, plumbers recommend using spanner screws. The kit, as a rule, includes screws for a screwdriver. Before starting work, be sure to check that the dimensions of the screw and the holes in the bowl are correct, as well as the presence of a gasket and decorative caps.

Installation of the cistern and connection to the water supply

The tank must include all the necessary parts: the inlet and drain mechanism, seals and fasteners, as well as installation instructions (it may differ slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer). The drain and filler mechanisms are fastened by the force of the hands, the keys are rarely used, ceramics or plastic can crack from excessive forces.

After assembling the cistern fittings, install the O-ring on the bowl where the cistern is to be attached. For a better seal, coat it with silicone grease. Place the waste cistern carefully onto the bowl. Lower the fixing bolts into the corresponding holes and secure with the nuts on the bottom of the toilet. Connect the toilet tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. Do not forget about rubber gaskets and FUM tape on the threads. All connections must be tight.

In conclusion, feel free to move on to the fun part - the first test run. If there are no leaks, you can safely use the new toilet.

Installation of plumbing equipment is carried out in strict accordance with building codes and regulations. Home craftsmen are often afraid of such work. This is used by service companies that charge very decent money for performing fairly simple operations. Meanwhile, fastening the toilet bowl to the floor is an exercise that is quite affordable for self-fulfillment. It is only important to carefully familiarize yourself with the existing work technologies, choose the most suitable one, and follow all the instructions exactly.

Regardless of the chosen method of fixing the toilet, the installation work begins with the assembly of the cistern. The device is assembled in accordance with the instructions and fixed in the place designated for it. Also, before installing the toilet, the water supply and drainage units must be prepared. There are several methods for attaching devices. The main selection criterion is the floor material on which the equipment will be installed. Let's take a closer look at the most common methods.

Method number 1: installation on dowels

The most practical method to install the device with the least effort and time. Ideal for use on a flat, smooth surface, since the slightest height differences negatively affect the flush quality. It is preferable to use this method of fastening for lightweight compact structures, since the fixation may not be entirely reliable. Plumbers advise to install the equipment on a special gasket, which can be easily made yourself from old linoleum or a sheet of thin rubber. The toilet is installed on the workpiece, traced around the contour with a marker. After that, a gasket of the desired shape is cut with a sharp knife or just scissors.

The device is fixed to the floor using dowels or special plumbing fasteners. Fasteners usually come with new hardware. It can also be purchased from specialized stores.

Now you need to markup. We “try on” the toilet bowl on the place prepared for the equipment and draw a circle around it. We remove the device. We apply a thin layer of sealant and glue a gasket on it. This design will be the most reliable, although some craftsmen prefer to do without a substrate at all. You can start drilling the holes for the fasteners. As practice shows, if you stick the gasket well and choose the diameter of the drill so that the holes for the fasteners are slightly larger than it, then further installation will be much easier. This is due to the fact that the rubber substrate acts as a kind of "contact spot" for the floor and the device.

It happens that you need not only to fix the toilet to the floor, but also to slightly raise it. This is true if there are several devices in the apartment. Then the last one in the system needs to be raised by about 3-4 cm. In this case, a piece of a two-inch board is used, which is used as a stand. It is cut exactly to the contour of the toilet and placed on the floor, with a rubber backing on top of it. All this is sealed with a sealant and forms a reliable and durable structure. We drill holes for fasteners directly along the gasket.

Tighten the fastening on the base of the toilet very carefully. Excessive force can damage the ceramic from which the device is made.

Long metal dowels or special plumbing fixtures can be used as fasteners. The latter usually come with new equipment. Their fastening quality is about the same, so you can use both options. We drive dowels into the holes prepared in the floor. We install the toilet and carefully screw it on. It must be remembered that over-tightening the ceramic from which the device is made can be damaged.

Now you need to connect the device to the sewer. At this stage, we pay special attention to the corrugation. Liberally lubricate both edges with silicone. We insert one of them into the sewer socket, and put the second one on the toilet bowl outlet. All parts of the connection should be carefully pressed with your fingers so that the seal is good. As an additional measure, you can use metallized tape, which can be used to seal the joints. We connect the water supply and the device is ready for use. There is a similar mounting method, which is detailed in the video.

Method number 2: mounting on glue

Of all the methods for fixing the toilet to the floor, this is the simplest, but at the same time, the most time-consuming. It takes about 12-15 hours to cure the epoxy mixture, which is used as an adhesive. This method can only be used on a smooth surface. It is most commonly used to secure equipment to floor tiles. The method is very simple to implement. First, both surfaces to be glued must be well cleaned of dust and debris. Floor tiles can be sanded to roughen them. This will improve the adhesion of the material. Surfaces can be degreased with any solvent or acetone.

Cooking glue. You can buy a ready-made epoxy or make your own. To do this, you need to take 100 parts of ED-6 epoxy resin, 200 parts of cement, 20 parts of a solvent or plasticizer and 35 parts of a hardener. The sequence of adding components to the solution is important. First, the resin is heated to 50C, a solvent is added to it, after a hardener and at the very end - cement. The composition must be constantly mixed in order to form a plastic, homogeneous mass.

In order for the toilet to be securely fixed in place, the floor covering is prepared: it is cleaned for better adhesion and lubricated with a small layer of glue. Excess composition, which appeared under the weight of the equipment, should be immediately removed with a damp cloth.

A properly prepared adhesive mixture can be used within an hour and a half. We apply it to the base of the toilet so that the solution covers an area of at least 20 square meters. cm, and the layer thickness was at least 4 mm. We install the prepared equipment in the right place, combining the sewer socket with the outlet, and press it with force to the floor. Then leave the device for at least 12 hours. This period is necessary for the adhesive to harden. During this time, it is not recommended to even touch the toilet. Then we connect the equipment to the water supply and sewerage system.

Method number 3: fastening to taffeta

Most often, this method is used to install toilets on a wooden floor. Taffeta is a solid wood pad to which the equipment is attached. The thickness of the board from which the element corresponding to the shape of the toilet seat support is cut should be 28-32 mm. To protect the part from dampness, it must be carefully treated with linseed oil. For reliable fastening to the floor, anchors are mounted from the bottom of the taffeta. The simplest option is nails driven in in a checkerboard pattern, which should protrude from the part by 2-3 cm. The recess prepared for installing the toilet is filled with cement mortar. Taffeta is embedded in it down with anchors. As a result, it should be flush with the floor.

After about 12 hours, during which the solution is completely dry, you can start attaching the equipment. The device is fixed with screws. Washers made of rubber must be placed under their heads, which will prevent possible damage to the toilet bowl when tightened. Experts advise to lubricate the screws with grease or graphite before work, so that later, if necessary, they can be easily unscrewed. Wood taffeta can be replaced with rubber backing. It is cut from 5 to 15 mm thick sheet material, perhaps even from an old rubber mat. This support should be 1 to 2 cm smaller than the toilet seat support.

Mounting the toilet bowl on taffeta involves the use of a special wooden insert. The diagram shows all the elements of such an attachment.

There are many ways to attach a standard toilet to the floor. They differ significantly in complexity and time spent on installation work. It is important to choose the correct fastening method. It depends on the material from which the floor in the room is made. Installation work can be carried out independently, but if you have no experience or desire, it is better to turn to professionals. They will quickly and competently carry out all the work, guaranteeing a long and flawless service of the new equipment.

Having understood the technology of installing a toilet, you can save on plumbing services and do the job as efficiently as possible. The toilet can be installed in the traditional way, or in a more modern way - with installation. In the second case, the cistern will be hidden in the wall, which will have a beneficial effect on the interior of the room.

You are presented with instructions on how to complete each of the installation options listed.

	H	h	h1	L	l	l1	B	b
With one-piece cast shelf, mm	370 and 400	320 and 350	150	Not less than 605 (by agreement between the consumer and the manufacturer, it is allowed to make toilet bowls with a length of 575 mm)	330	435	340 and 360	260
Without one-piece cast shelf, mm	370 and 400	320 and 350	150	460	330	435	340 and 360	260
Baby	335	285	130	405	280	380	290	210

Set for work

Perforator.
Roulette.
Adjustable wrench.
Fan pipe.
Flexible hose.
FUM tape.
Fasteners.
Sealant.

In the case of installing a toilet bowl for installation, the listed list will expand with the corresponding set. Everything you need is bought at any plumbing store.

Dismantling the old toilet

First step . We shut off the water supply and drain off all the liquid.

Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.

Step three. We unscrew the tank fasteners. If they are rusted, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. Press the head of the bolt with the selected tool and unscrew the nut using an adjustable wrench. If it does not work out, we pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.

Fourth step. We dismantle the toilet mountings.

Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet bowl drain from the sewer.

In old buildings, plums are usually fixed with cement plaster. To destroy it, we use a hammer and a chisel. We need to chop up the cement and gently rock the toilet to the sides. The drain should twist and loosen. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.

If the toilet has a floor outlet, the wax ring must be cleaned

Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.

Important! Sewer gases do not smell very pleasant. However, they are poisonous and flammable. Be sure to take this point into account in the process of work.

Preparing for installation

The base for installing the toilet should be flat. There are several options for the development of events, namely:

if the floor is tiled and has no level differences, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
if the floor is tiled and not even, we install the toilet with chopiks. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, chopiks are hammered into them according to the level, and after that the toilet bowl is attached to the chopiks with screws;
if a tile replacement is planned, we dismantle the old cladding and fill in a new screed, if the old one has level differences;
if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, fill in the screed and lay the tiles.

We pay attention to pipes. Sewer from debris and various sediments, we install a tap on the water supply (if it was absent before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.

How to install a conventional toilet

As a rule, when sold, the toilet and the cistern are disconnected. The internal reinforcement of the barrel is most often already assembled, which greatly facilitates the installation process.

First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.

Floor marks for fasteners

Second step. We remove the toilet and drill the mounting holes in the marked places.

Step three. We drive the dowels into the mounting holes.

Fourth step. Install the bowl. We insert the fasteners through special gaskets. We tighten the fasteners. Do not pull too hard - you can damage either the fasteners, or even the toilet itself. We pull until rigid fixing of the sanitary ware to the surface is ensured. We close the fasteners with plugs from above.

Fifth step. We mount the cover and seat. The assembly manual usually comes with the toilet, so we will not dwell on this event separately.

Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how the toilet outlet is connected.

Video - Installing the Compact toilet bowl with wall outlet

Prices for components for toilets and urinals

Accessories for toilets and urinals

If the release is on the wall, we work like this:

If the release is set up on the floor, we do the following:

Helpful advice! If the connection of the toilet bowl to the drain pipe is made using a corrugation, in most cases, sealing can be dispensed with, because the design of such a transition hose is itself capable of providing a sufficiently tight fit.

Seventh step. We carry out the installation of the tank. Drainage mechanisms, as a rule, are sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, assemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (the assembly procedure for different models may differ slightly).

We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water opening in our toilet. Install the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.

It is most convenient to install fasteners as follows:

Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it breaks in somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. The level of filling the tank with water is adjustable by moving the float lower or higher.

Let the tank fill up several times and drain the water. If everything is ok, we take the toilet for permanent use.

Modern installation option. A special wall installation is used, in which the cistern mechanism is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and the flush button are visible.

We mount a wall-mounted toilet for installation

Video - How to install a wall-hung toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation

The first stage is the installation of the frame

We carry out installation of a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable with brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. The frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use with any toilet bowl.

The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width must exceed the width of the tank.

The second stage - we hang the tank

The installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:

place the drain button about a meter from the floor;
between the attachment points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the lugs of our toilet bowl;
the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
We hang the wall-mounted toilet at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
we maintain no more than 15 mm distance between the cistern and the wall.

The third stage - we mount the finished installation

We first check the evenness of the wall using a plumb line. If deviations are found, do the following:

The fourth stage - we install the tank

First, we connect the tank. The drain can have top and side outlets. Almost all modern cistern models allow you to choose between these two options.

Important! When installing the toilet on an installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank with a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. In the near future, would you want to destroy the frame skin for the sake of a five-minute replacement of such a hose? That's it!

It is best to use plastic pipes for the connection. All necessary fasteners are usually included with the tank. Separately, you only have to buy a panel for the drain buttons, and that is not always the case.

We connect the outlet of our toilet with the sewerage system. The most convenient way to do this is with a corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily disconnect the toilet from the drain and remove the bowl to the side.

Important! The procedure for connecting the tank to the toilet and water supply may differ depending on the model of the product. We clarify these points in a separate order and follow the manufacturer's manual.

The fifth stage - we cover the installation

To do this, we use moisture-resistant plasterboard with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fasten it with a double layer. First, we do the following:

screw the pins into the frame for hanging the toilet bowl (included in the kit);
we close the drain holes with plugs (also from the kit) so that they do not get clogged with dust and debris;
we make holes in the drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.

We fasten the sheathing sheets to the frame using special screws. Maintain the fastening step at a level of 30-40 cm. The structure will be small in size and weight, therefore there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between fasteners.

We cover the drywall with tiles or trim it in another way at our discretion.

Helpful advice! Before starting the tiling of the box, we install a plug and a cuff in the place of the future location of the drain button. They are usually included in the kit.

Video - Installing a wall-hung toilet

Sixth stage - install the toilet

To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on the pins (we installed them in the previous stages of work). These steps can be performed in reverse order, as it is more convenient for you. We tighten the fastening nuts.

Important! Previously, the tile that will be in contact with must be covered with a layer of silicone sealant (you can install a gasket instead).

You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.

The assembly instructions for the installation remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.

First step. Fix the knee position firmly. Metal fasteners will help you with this.

Second step. Treat the outlet of the toilet with technical ointment.

Step three. Place the toilet in its designated place. Trace the outline of the sanitary ware and mark the holes for the fasteners.

Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the included mounting brackets according to the markings.

Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into the waste pipe and secure the plumbing fixture using the bolts or other fasteners supplied.

Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. The installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of the installation of a wall-mounted toilet model.

Seventh step. We put the drain button in a previously prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet. If everything is normal, we accept the product for continuous operation.

Read our new article - and also find out what the varieties are, how to choose and install.

Video - Installing a side-mounted toilet with a hidden cistern

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself toilet installation

If you are thinking about installing a toilet for the first time, this article is for you. Moreover, it is better if you have time to read it before you go to the store for a new "faience friend" or before finishing finishing in the toilet.

The fact is that modern toilets are so different that they have a very different type of attachment, flush, sewer supply, etc. So, ideally, planning what kind of toilet you have to install with your own hands, you need to start already at the design stage of the toilet.

But what if there is an old "throne" in the toilet - how to remove it, avoiding a worldwide flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, a step-by-step guide and a few tips from the masters will help you save money and do it yourself without any problems.

It is impossible to plan a comfortable toilet without taking into account the peculiarities of the toilet that is to be installed there.

To understand what exactly is to be done, you need to know:

whether it is necessary to dismantle the toilet bowl, which has served its purpose and carry out overhaul in the toilet (including cladding, repair and connection of sewer communications and floor screed);
what are the dimensions of the new plumbing - will it not clutter up the space and will it allow your door to open quietly;
what kind of fastening does your future toilet have;
what is the way to drain the toilet;
at what height do you want to install the plumbing.

If you know the answers to all these questions, all that remains is to dismantle the old (if necessary) and install a new toilet.

Recall that floor plumbing is subdivided into several types. It differs in shape and structure.

Bowl shape classification:

funnel-shaped;
disc-shaped;
visor.

There is an outlet drain for toilets:

horizontally oblique;
vertically designed.

The flushing cistern can be combined with the toilet bowl and independent (wall-mounted).

Toilets are attached to the floor: for 2 and 4 attachment points, for corners.

Down with the old toilet!

Surely your toilet, which needs to be dismantled, is not wall-mounted, which means it is attached to the floor. You can remove it from the toilet in just 7 steps.

We turn off the water and drain it from the cistern in the toilet.
We unscrew the thin hose suitable for the tank.
We unscrew the tank fasteners. If they are rusted or "stuck", you can water them, leaving them for 5-7 minutes, with a special agent that will dissolve the lime. Or, you can simply rip off the bolts using a screwdriver and an adjustable wrench. Also, in order for the bolts to give in, you can spray on the "WD" mount in advance with kerosene composition, etc.
Following the cistern bolts, unscrew the toilet seat fasteners. They usually look like a nut screwed onto an anchor. To simplify the process, use the same techniques as for the cistern mounts.
Next, you need to unhook the toilet bowl drain from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is old, then the drain at the attachment point is probably coated with cement for strength. It must be beaten off with a hammer and a screwdriver. First, the compound must be crumbled across the joint, and then the cement can be mechanically destroyed. The drain should swing for now, but stay in place.
We tilt the toilet several times in different directions, thus draining the water remaining in the knee.
Ready. An old toilet can be detached and proudly carried into the trash, remembering to plug the gaping sewer hole with a plastic, fabric or wood plug.

If there are no plans for the old toilet bowl, and you see it off on its last journey, then after rocking it can be split with a sledgehammer so that it is not hard to endure it. The same will have to be done if the old plumbing fixtures are cemented.

After dismantling the toilet, assess the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron ones create many problems; before installing new plumbing, it is recommended to change them to plastic. Also, plastic pipes greatly facilitate the process of installing a toilet bowl and distributing sewer drains (by the way, you can also read about installing plastic pipes with your own hands on our website).

Self-assembly of plumbing "step by step"

A toilet bowl needs a flat, lined or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor for normal operation.

First, we connect the toilet bowl drain with the help of a corrugation to the outlet of the sewer pipe-riser. A rigid nipple can also be used. The best option is if the toilet bowl drain enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber border. It is important to take into account that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is fine.
Toilet installation - cuff
To enter water, you need a flexible, sufficiently long hose that connects the tap, which supplies liquid from the water supply to your plumbing tank. Pay attention to both inlet diameters to find a hose with two matching fittings. Obviously, there is no way to screw a 3/4 ”thread onto a 1/8” pipe.
We take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe
Once the drain is securely connected, you can begin securing the plumbing.

Fastening to the floor: 3 types of fasteners

You can fix a toilet with a wall cistern without screws, one resin. True, with this method of fastening, you must first clean the surface of the tile so that the glue holds better. When using epoxy, it is important to let the freshly installed plumbing dry properly and adhere to the floor surface.

Fixing the toilet to the wall

Hanging toilets are being used more and more. Their installation is not much more difficult than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl installation on our website). A wall-mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended using a metal frame that is attached to the load-bearing wall itself. In this case, the cistern and toilet pipes are located behind a false wall made of plasterboard. If the hinged plumbing has an open tank, then it will be possible to fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe must be inside the wall. The structure will be supported by the same anchors embedded in the wall or in the supporting frame.

After fixing the toilet bowl on the wall or on the floor, all that remains is to assemble the toilet. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fixed, or a pipe from a tank hung on the wall is supplied to it.

It remains only to check if the toilet is working and if there are any leaks. We turn on cold water, wait for the tank to fill, adjusting the filling level. We adjust the locking mechanism according to the instructions. We wash it off and see if it flows from the drain.

The last step is to screw on the toilet seat. But here you, for sure, can handle it yourself.

Before buying plumbing fixtures, first decide on the type of drain that suits you. If you do not plan to change the supply of the sewer riser, you must choose the same type as in your used toilet. Remember: no adapters will help to qualitatively connect the toilet with an unsuitable type of outlet.
Do not leave the choice and purchase of a toilet at the final moment of the repair: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance in order to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
Invest in nickel-plated bolts and anchors to secure the toilet to the floor or wall. They do not rust, which means that ugly drips and sticking of the bolts are excluded.