We glue the mosaic on the grid: the rules for laying mosaic tiles. How I glued the mosaic for the first time How to glue the mosaic on the wallpaper

In the construction services market mosaic laying is valued much more expensive than tile work. They say that laying a mosaic is more difficult and this work should be entrusted only to a professional. But thanks to modern technologies and the availability of materials, everyone can try themselves as a master and artist. Of course, no one is immune from mistakes. It is worth to start practicing on small surfaces.

The process of laying mosaic tiles is fascinating: it makes you think creatively and opens up wide decorating possibilities. In construction supermarkets, you can often find mosaics made of glass, ceramics or stone. Usually these materials are combined in one sheet (tile).

The basis on which the mosaic tile is attached can also be different, for example, paper or mesh. The laying process does not depend on the type of base, because its task is to keep the tesserae (or, as they are also called, chips) at the same level and ensure the free penetration of the glue.

If you do not want to work with cement mixtures, you can buy self-adhesive mosaic tiles. In this case, applying glue to the prepared surface is not required.

Materials and tools for gluing mosaic tiles

For work, we need glue, grout, crosses and, of course, mosaic tiles. And if we have already talked a little about the mosaic, then the rest of the materials should be discussed in more detail. There are three types of adhesive for tiles and mosaics: cement-based, acrylic and epoxy.

Cement based tile adhesive. For mosaics, choose white tile adhesive. Transparent or translucent mosaics may change color if dark colored adhesives are used. Cement-based adhesive is sold in bags and is a dry powder mixture, which is diluted with water according to the instructions. There is a problem that can be encountered in the preparation of such an adhesive. If you use water with a high content of hardness or iron salts, the glue will turn brownish instead of white. To prevent an undesirable result, use a special plasticizer or clean drinking water. Glue must be diluted strictly according to the instructions. Cement-based adhesive is suitable primarily for concrete surfaces.

acrylic adhesive. This adhesive is ready to use. It has an ideal consistency, white color, easy to apply and evenly distributed with a spatula over the surface. It can be used on all kinds of surfaces. The main thing is that the base has the ability to absorb: for example, such glue will not stick tiles on glass. But they can glue tiles on tiles.

Two part epoxy grout. It is also used in some cases as an adhesive for tiles or mosaics. Epoxy grout (glue) has exceptional waterproofing properties, durability, it is not afraid of fungi. The base treated with such an adhesive is able to withstand sudden temperature changes. Epoxy glue (grout) has another indisputable plus - it will glue the mosaic to absolutely any base.

A common mistake is to glue mosaic tiles on liquid nails. This glue is difficult to spread evenly under the tiles, so over time the chips will simply fall out. Liquid nails are more suitable for spot work.

crosses will be needed to join the mosaic tiles. Their size should correspond to the width of the gaps between the chips.

Tools: notched trowel, rubber spatula, sponge, gloves, bucket, construction mixer (or nozzle on a drill).

The base, which is planned to be decorated with mosaics, must be cleaned of dust and degreased, primed. It should not have obvious irregularities. A well-prepared surface will reduce adhesive consumption. On such a surface it is easier to evenly distribute the adhesive with a spatula.

Laying mosaic tiles on a concrete wall

1. Cement glue is prepared according to the instructions. Each has its own characteristics, such as the lifetime of the adhesive. If this parameter is not taken into account, the composition may lose its adhesive properties. Therefore, the mixture must be made as much as you have time to apply, and glue the tiles in the specified time. Glue is prepared strictly according to the instructions. We interfere with a construction mixer until a homogeneous mass, let it stand so that it “works”.

2. The adhesive is applied with a spatula and spread over the wall with a notched trowel. The thickness of its tooth should correspond to the thickness of the mosaic. Try to spread the adhesive on the base evenly. The grooves and strips of glue should be even, without spools, tears and clots. A wall should be visible between the grooves. When the mosaic is glued to such a surface, the adhesive will be evenly distributed under the chips, and a small part of it will go into the seams between them. Glue should fill the seams less than half.

3. We press the mosaic to the glue evenly and strongly: you can tap it with a rubber grouting spatula to press the mosaic sheet into the glue as much as possible. After you have pasted the entire mosaic, you need to leave it to dry. The ideal drying time is 48 hours.

4. Here we will show a mistake that is often encountered by beginners. The glue layer was too thick, it got out of the seams. In this form, you can not leave the glue, remove the excess with a spatula. If this is not done, the grout will have nothing to catch on, and it will collapse and fall out very quickly.

5. Mosaic tiles glued to the wall. You can start applying the grout.

Working with two part epoxy grout

Epoxy grout is more often used where the tile is exposed to temperature changes, household detergents and where it is constantly wet. As a rule, this is a bath and a toilet, a kitchen or a pool. After drying, it is absolutely harmless: it does not react with food acids, withstands temperature changes. Therefore, it is often decorated not only with kitchen aprons, but also with countertops in the kitchen or in the bathroom.

When working with epoxy grout, you must follow the following rules: work with gloves and quickly, observe proportions and prepare as much material as you can use in 40 minutes. You will need a scale to accurately weigh the components. In addition, epoxy grout requires special tools. The materials from which they are made do not react with the grout components. These are special spatula, sponge and grater. Tools should be washed in cool water after each use.

1. We mix the required amount of grout strictly according to the instructions. We used a transparent grout with the addition of glitters. It is better to mix the grout components with a construction mixer at low speeds: when heated, the hardening process is accelerated.

2. Take a small amount of grout on a spatula and rub in small intermittent movements, press the grout into the recesses between the chips. As a rule, almost all work is carried out with the edge of a rubber spatula.

3. Place the spatula on edge at a 45° angle to the seams at the top corner of the mosaic sheet and scrape off excess material. Such an inclination of the spatula allows you to remove only excess grout from the surface of the mosaic and at the same time not to move the grout that has already been filled into the seams.

4. Soak the grater in water. It needs to be squeezed a little just so that the water does not pour onto the floor. The grater must be very wet. Rub the surface of the mosaic in a circular motion so that the excess "epoxy" seems to start to lather. Thanks to this, the grout deepens into the seam, and the excess remains on the grater.

5. Use a damp cellulose sponge to remove any remaining grout and moisture from the mosaic. This process is also performed at a 45° angle to the seams.

6. Let the epoxy grout dry for at least a day.

When working with a two-component grout, it should be noted that after hardening it cannot be washed off the mosaic. It leaves a thin film on tiles and mosaics. If this effect does not suit you in terms of aesthetics, use a special composition to remove it.

Adhesives for mosaic tiles on a grid make it possible to securely fix this outwardly spectacular and very popular finishing material on the wall surface.

Mosaic tiles - a great do-it-yourself decor

The type of facing material we are interested in is a composition of many ceramic, glass, mica small elements that are connected into small tiles on a building grid. These products are highly flexible. They can be cut into separate parts without the slightest difficulty, without using any special tools for this purpose. The appearance of mosaic tiles on a grid allowed home craftsmen to create full-fledged panels and entire picturesque paintings on the walls in their homes.

Mosaic tiles in the bathroom

Previously, only professionals could perform such work. After all, they had to glue each piece of the mosaic separately. Such an event required scrupulousness and maximum attention from the master. Now the need to call a specialist to finish the walls in the kitchen or in any other room with mosaics has completely disappeared. Any person who is friends with his own hands and has minimal skills in performing construction work can purchase the tiles he likes on the grid and independently engage in a fascinating process - decorating a home.

Next, we will talk in detail about the technology and rules for laying mosaics. But first, let's describe the adhesives that can be used to mount tiles on the wall. Manufacturers produce various types of glue. All of them are characterized by certain qualities and features of use.

Mosaic adhesive - dispersion, cement or reactive?

There are three types of compositions for gluing tiles on a grid. They are listed below:

dispersion;
cement (otherwise it is called dry);
reactive (consisting of two components).

Cement adhesive for tiles

Dispersion adhesive is considered affordable and fairly easy to use. It consists of one component. You do not need to stir the composition, add water or any other solvents to it. The glue is ready for use immediately after purchase at a hardware store. The undoubted advantage of dispersion compositions is that they do not lose their properties during storage. You can open the glue, use a certain amount of it, and then close the lid tightly and leave the jar until the next repair. Another plus of working with such a composition is the absence of dust and dirt. Gluing tiles with a dispersion composition is a pleasure! But only on condition that the amount of finishing work will be quite modest.

If you need to clad more than one small wall, but several large surfaces, it is better to use cement glue. It can be made on the basis of gray or white cement. Such compositions are elastic, rigid and deformable (with a very high level of elasticity). For mounting tiles on a clean and even plastered or brick wall, it is recommended to use rigid compounds. But elastic variations of glue are used for facing complex surfaces. For example, those that are susceptible to temperature changes or vibrations.

Elastic adhesive is commonly used in kitchens and bathrooms. It is also indispensable for finishing uneven walls in other rooms. Elastic compositions are also used for surfaces made of foam and aerated concrete blocks. They are allowed to be used for mounting mosaic tiles on a grid on a concrete screed. At a price, cement glue is cheaper than dispersion glue. But it must be mixed with water or latex immediately before use. This operation should be performed using a construction mixer. Naturally, when stirring the composition, you will not be able to avoid dirt and dust in the room. For this reason, few home craftsmen buy cement mixes in order to glue the mosaic on their own.

The most expensive is reactive glue. It consists of two components - a hardener and a base, which can be epoxy and polyurethane. It makes sense to acquire such a composition in cases where you plan to glue mosaic tiles on a natural stone wall, on a plastic, wooden, metal or glass surface. Before use, the adhesive components are mixed. They enter into a chemical reaction and in just a couple of minutes we get the finished composition.

Use mixed reactive adhesive as soon as possible. It dries up very quickly. And after hardening, it becomes unsuitable for finishing work.

How to glue tiles on a grid - let's deal with the technology

For laying mosaic tiles, standard tools and additional materials are used. You will need a paint brush or roller to perform priming work and a primer itself, a regular spatula (with it you will level the glued products and lightly press them down), (it is used to apply adhesive), a mixer, grout for joints, a container for glue . After preparing the necessary tools, proceed to prepare the wall surface for gluing it with mosaics. It will be necessary to remove the remnants of the previous coating, all the dirt on it, level the surface if necessary and sand it.

Mosaic tiles

Note! It is not necessary to carefully align the walls for mounting tiles on the grid. Mosaic products, due to their flexibility, will be able to level the unevenness of the surface to be tiled. The next step is to apply a primer to the wall. Treat the surface boldly. It is not necessary to regret the primer. There is no need to wait for the complete drying of the treated surface. After priming, immediately knead the adhesive and proceed with laying the tiles. This process is carried out as follows:

Apply adhesive to the wall with a notched trowel. Try to distribute the composition evenly over the entire surface. If desired, you can also glue the back of the mosaic with glue.
Install the tile in the place intended for it and gently, using a spatula, press it in. Immediately check the accuracy of mounting the mosaic vertically and horizontally (you can use a regular school ruler for this purpose, although it is better to use a building level).
Install the rest of the created panel on the grid in the same way.
Glue (regardless of its type) will grab somewhere in 25-40 minutes. You will need to remove it from the surface of the tiles with a cloth slightly dampened with water. Be sure to do this. When the glue hardens completely, it will be very, very difficult to remove its residues from the mosaic..

After 48 hours, proceed to the lining you have made. Use any suitable grout. They need to carefully fill all the seams on the panel. This operation is easiest to perform with a simple rubber spatula. After that, wipe the mosaic tiles and enjoy the results of your work. As a grout, you can use compositions based on liquid glass, epoxy resin, latex or Portland cement. There is one nuance here. If you decide to glue the mosaic in the kitchen, it is advisable to purchase epoxy grout. It creates a waterproof and very durable layer on the tile surface. In other rooms, you can use any of the above compositions.

Create unique interiors in your home with mosaic tiles. Make your home original and cozy!

The walls of the house, decorated with mosaics, have always been considered a sign of wealth and good taste. But if earlier, in order to decorate your home, an experienced craftsman was required, who laid out intricate patterns for months on end, today almost everyone can do such an operation with their own hands. So, the topic of the new article is devoted to the question of how to glue the mosaic on the wall.

To get a good result, it is not enough to understand only the process of laying the mosaic. It is very important to have an idea about the material from which it is made, since you have to take into account the operating conditions, the quality of the surface to be finished, and much more. So let's talk about everything in order. Let's start with the types of mosaics.

Mosaic types

A modern mosaic is a small rectangular tile typed into a layer of a certain size. The basis that fastens the segments together is a polymer mesh, silicone or paper. This solution eliminates the need to manually build mosaic walls - just apply glue and glue the entire layer.

In addition to increasing the speed of masonry, there is another plus - such a finish is better bonded to the wall due to the fact that the mesh base acts as a reinforcing element.

Let's start with the simplest option - ceramic mosaic. In fact, this is an ordinary tile, but reduced in size.

Manufacturers offer solutions with various surfaces: matte, glossy, non-uniform and even with artificial cracks. The range of colors is also very large, which allows you to use this option in any rooms and interiors.

As you already understood, the main difference between the mosaic lies in the material from which it is made - this is what determines its properties and features. Glass options are next on our list, we combined them into one item, because due to the similarity of properties, they are often combined together.

So:

Mirror mosaic- is a panel of small pieces of mirrors with polished edges. Mosaic walls in the bathroom, made from this material, visually increase the space, adding light and airiness. At the same time, the play of light will easily hide all the irregularities of the walls, if there were any before finishing.
Smalt mosaic- This is a material made from pieces of opaque glass, which are heated to certain temperatures during the production process and subjected to special processing. As a result, the material becomes very durable and resistant to low and high temperatures, without losing its unique beauty. This mosaic is perfect for creating unique panels - all due to the fact that each of its fragments refracts light differently from the rest, and therefore has its own unique shade.
Mosaic from Venetian glass- this is a multi-million variety of shades created with the help of special additives in the production process. Working with such a mosaic, you can create real works of art. Venetian glass is highly durable and long lasting. Its only drawback is the very high price.

Advice! When buying a mosaic of smalt and Venetian glass, you can purchase it without a base. So you can post your own art panel.

Mosaic from natural stone made from marble, jasper, sandstone, tuff and other natural stones. It is great for decorating garden paths and floors.

Advice! Be careful when choosing a material, as some varieties of natural stone do not tolerate moisture, that is, they are not suitable for finishing bathrooms, saunas and swimming pools.

Mosaic from natural stone - slate

Our review is completed by a mosaic of artificial granite., which is made from broken glass mixed with granite or marble dust. This production technology allows you to get a surface pierced with sparkling crystals that create a unique play of light that spreads, as it were, from inside the product.

Mosaic adhesive

Today, the areas of use of mosaics have gone far beyond the boundaries of baths and pools (see Pool cladding with mosaics: design ideas). Facing with luxurious mosaics can give a special charm to the bathroom, kitchen or living room.

Due to the variety of color palette and texture of the material, the mosaic allows designers to act boldly and in an original way, without stopping at anything. And in bringing their crazy ideas to life, such an indispensable thing as glue helps, the correct selection of which guarantees high-quality work.

The photo above shows one of the representatives of cement-based dry adhesives. This material is the most accessible and widespread.

Let's list its main properties and applications:

This adhesive is made from gray or white cement, which determines the final shade of the mixture, for the preparation of which it is enough to mix the dry base with water or liquid latex.
To work with various bases, three types of these mixtures are produced: hard, elastic and deformable.
Rigid glue is used when facing even, inactive surfaces with a mineral base: masonry made of brick, aerated concrete, foam concrete; concrete and plaster surfaces.

If your house is located in close proximity to the subway or railway tracks, then for laying any tile you will need a deformable adhesive that will compensate for all fluctuations and vibrations. In addition to the above, the use of these mixtures is also appropriate when the surface to be finished is constantly exposed to temperature changes and poorly absorbs moisture (warm floors, exterior finishes, etc.).

Dispersion adhesive is a ready-made solution from a can, which will be the best option for small repairs, when it is scary to dust and stain the finished finish. Such a big plus more than compensates for the higher cost of the product.

This material consists of minerals, water and acrylic additives. It is a paste-like mass of medium density, which is very convenient to work with.
The setting time of the adhesive is on average 40 minutes, which will allow you to accurately adjust the position of the mosaic layer on the wall. It is enough to cover the unfinished mixture with a lid - and you can leave it until the next use. This property will be appreciated by inexperienced craftsmen.
Dispersion adhesive is excellent for complex substrates, and provides high-quality fixation even on the surface of old tiles.
In addition to mosaics, this material is used when fixing tiles, clinker tiles (see Clinker tiles: a versatile material for interiors and facades), majolica, glazed tiles and natural stone.

Next in line are two-component adhesives based on polyurethane and epoxy resins. They are produced in the form of a ready-made mixture, divided into two parts (base and hardener). When the components are mixed, a chemical reaction occurs, as a result of which a very strong elastic mass is formed.

These compositions are completely waterproof, which makes them ideal for lining swimming pools, bathrooms, baths, laundries and other rooms with high humidity.
Varieties of this glue are divided into three subspecies: fluid; with ultra-thin filler; with mineral filler.
The composition of the material is completely free of water - thanks to this, it is the only right solution when laying mosaics from materials that do not tolerate moisture well (for example, sandstone).
Reactive glue firmly fixes the mosaic on smooth surfaces: glass, metal, wood or plastic.

The disadvantages of this material include a very short production time, which makes it inaccessible to beginners. Also, if the glue is not removed from the surface in time, then it will take a lot of time and effort to clean it.

Which glue is right for me

Let's now recap what we've learned about adhesives. Buying glue for a mosaic is the final stage, that is, first you need to know exactly what material will be laid and what kind of base will be prepared for it.

First of all, evaluate the time allotted for the work. If the deadlines are running out, then buy quick-hardening compounds.
From the point of view of installation, the most whimsical type of mosaic is glass. Due to the fact that this material is transparent, the base of the wall will be visible through it. Therefore, in order not to spoil the appearance of the finish, purchase white adhesives.
Absolutely any adhesive is suitable for laying ceramic mosaics, since the entire draft part will be completely hidden behind an opaque surface.
Natural stone is also unpretentious. All you need to know is the resistance of the material to moisture. And if it is low, then we buy epoxy glue.

Ideally, the wall to be trimmed should be smooth, solid and clean. Applying glue to such a surface will not be difficult, and the strength of the masonry will be very high.

Cement and gypsum screeds are suitable for any type of adhesive. If you need laying on an uneven, moving or old tiled surface, then opt for highly elastic compositions. When laying the mosaic in a very humid environment, use a waterproof adhesive with an adhesion of at least 2.5 MPa.

Advice! Before filling the lined pool with water, it is necessary to wait at least two weeks after the completion of all work.

Mosaic laying

Now let's talk about the process of preparing the surface, and laying the mosaic on it.

Surface preparation and installation work

We deliberately omit wall alignment, as this is a topic for another article. Imagine that the surface is already ready for us, and we will begin further processing.

Let's look at the process of preparing a plastered wall. The first thing we need to do is to check the surface for the presence of unfilled voids in it. Unlike tiles, mosaics must be laid on a completely flat surface. Any hole in the plaster can lead to the fact that a separate element of the mosaic sheet will begin to hang on the reinforcing mesh.
For quick filling of voids, it is convenient to use a metal trowel, which has the necessary rigidity, which allows you to control the layer of leveling mixture applied (it is best to use the material with which the walls were plastered).
The next step is to polish the surface. It is necessary in order to remove all layers and small irregularities that may interfere with further work.

With drywall walls, it's even easier - we close the seams and visible caps of the self-tapping screws. After the putty has completely dried, you can start laying.

But do not forget to pre-sweep the dust and prime the surface (see Priming the walls and all on this subject). This procedure will improve adhesion, bind remaining dust and reduce the moisture absorption of the substrate. The same goes for any other surface.

After the above manipulations, you can proceed to the facing.

For this we need the following tools:

Two buckets: one for mixing glue, the other for rinsing the mixer (you can omit it if you purchased ready-made glue);
Electric drill and nozzle-mixer;
Building level and laser level (can be replaced with a hydraulic level);
Notched trowel or bevel for applying glue with a tooth height of 4-6 mm;
Mosaic smoothing tool (roller or grater);
Marking and cutting tools.

So let's get started. We start with a horizontal layout. With the help of the level, we determine the lower edge of our surface. If necessary, laying can also be started from the center, but then you will have to accurately calculate the height in order to fit the missing segments into it later. If you start laying from the floor, then it will serve as a guide.

After, you need to make a vertical markup. To do this, we take a mosaic rug, and, moving it, we mark all future columns step by step. This procedure will show how best to make the layout, and from which side to make a cut if necessary.

Try to hide cut edges in corners and other hard-to-reach places to make them less visible.

Next, we knead the glue, and using a conventional spatula, apply it to the wall, making sure that the layer is as even as possible. Coat at a time exactly as much wall area as you have time to overlay with a mosaic, while avoiding the formation of a film on the surface of the adhesive.

No matter how hard you try, you will never be able to make the layer perfectly even. For this, a comb is used - only fine-toothed options are suitable for mosaics, which will make the layer minimal. This is necessary so that excess glue does not squeeze out through the seams.

If you did not find a small enough comb, then you can use a larger one - just tilt it to the plane of the wall, thereby cutting off the excess.

Position the notched trowel perpendicular to the wall and draw the adhesive from bottom to top. If bald spots have formed in some places, then spread the glue collected on the spatula over them and stretch it again. After you get your hand stuffed, you can try stretching the mixture in different directions. This technique will make the hitch even stronger.

Do not overdo it at this stage, as the seams may shift. For the final fixation, a rubber trowel is used - press the entire mosaic canvas with it, avoiding sliding movements. If necessary, the position of the layer can be corrected.

Attention! If you are laying a glass mosaic, be sure to coat the back side with a thin layer of glue. Otherwise, furrows of dried glue will be visible through it.

When laying the next canvas, you will need to observe the indentation, which should be equal to the distance between the tiles on the layer. Tiled crosses of the right size are suitable for this.

In this manner, we cover the entire surface coated with glue, after which we remove the mixture that remains outside the mosaic. By the way, to apply glue more accurately, use the vertical markings made earlier.

It happens that traces of silicone remain on the edges of the mosaic rugs - they need to be cut off with a clerical knife. Another feature is layers with a protective paper layer, on which the direction of laying is marked, which does not need to be removed until the glue has completely dried, as it protects the surface from dirt.

What else you need to know when laying a mosaic

Let's list the manipulations that you have to do during facing.

Cutting is a procedure without which no repair can do. Of course, you may be lucky and the width of the wall will exactly match the dimensions of the mosaic. Well, if the sockets are exactly at the seams, then you are just lucky. All that is required of you is to cut through the reinforcing mesh and remove unnecessary elements.

In other cases, you will have to painstakingly cut out each element of the canvas. For straight cutting, it is best to use double-sided roller cutters. Cutting with this tool will not create noise and dust, and the resulting edges will be even and smooth.

With cutting holes in the canvas, things are much more complicated.

We offer two ways:

We remove segments from the canvas with the necessary margin- after which we separate the tile piece by piece, cut it with roller cutters and cover the socket in parts.
We cut a hole with a grinder. To do this, we transfer the exact markings to the reverse side, and gradually cut through the necessary elements, beveling the rotating disk at an angle. So, the cut will be more accurate.

Much easier things are on plasterboard walls. Cutting is done after complete drying and grouting of the surface, simultaneously with drywall. For this, an electric drill with a diamond crown is used.

Well, how without grouting an infinite number of seams? Dilute the grout mixture with water, and stir until a homogeneous mass is formed. Apply it on a rubber float, and stretch it over the surface of the wall in a circular motion, without missing a single seam.

After you have covered a few square meters, take a damp sponge and gently rinse off the excess mixture. It is important to guess the state of the drying grout. If it is still liquid, then you will wash off more than necessary, and if you miss a moment, then get ready for a tedious cleaning. Usually such information is indicated on the label of the mixture, but we still recommend that you conduct a test to prevent slips.

If you have fully mastered the above information, then the mosaic on the wall will lie flat and beautiful. The video in this article will clearly show how the whole process takes place, so we recommend that you definitely familiarize yourself with it. That's all - success in your endeavors!

How I glued the mosaic for the first time.
I did not find topics on working with mosaics on the forum. Let this be the first. So, a small report for those who, for their own reasons, or for some other reason, have decided to work with mosaics. Why mosaic and why did I choose it? Because the tiles in the bathroom are more traditional and banal, and I wanted something not quite standard and more original. Maybe I just wanted to believe: would I be able to make a bathroom on my own and lay the mosaic with my own hands, while having only modest enough experience when working with tiles. Well, in general, I got fixated on this mosaic, and even when obstacles began to appear for the realization of this dream of mine in the bathroom, I did not give up my idea. And the initial obstacles and "sticks in the wheels": were the following:
-Price. This is something unrealistically overpriced and it is not clear how priced! In the markets of building materials in the region of residence, they ask from 2 to 7 thousand per square meter! It is easy to calculate that for a small 2x2 bathroom with a total wall area of 20 square meters. m (or even less, since there is a door to the bathroom) you need to pay from 40 to 140 thousand rubles! And this price is only for the mosaic itself, without glue, waterproofing, plumbing, shower, sink, toilet bowl! (It's easier for me to buy another car!) But I did not despair and began to surf the Internet. And soon I ran into an online store with a fabulous sale of the remains of mosaic tiles at prices of about 1 thousand rubles. However, another stick in the wheels followed:
How good is an online store? Prices! And… everything. Really feel, touch, and even just look at the product does not work. Product photos on a computer monitor are perfect, attractive, beautiful and inviting. But in reality, only the color remained in the remnants, which ... well, of course, which I did not quite count on ... But, like a stubborn ram, I still decided to go to the end! Well, let there be a very original bathroom in terms of color! Although, of course, I really wanted to make it either light green, or blue, or beige, or warm orange or yellow. But this pleasure, unfortunately, did not fit into the budget. Since the price also depends on the color. After some deliberation, a "stretch" type mosaic was chosen. Yes, it’s not enough for me to go crazy with just a mosaic! I really need a "stretch"! This is when the tile is with a pattern: it is darker below, and climbing up the wall, it brightens and brightens in tones and shades, forming such an interesting thing - just very beautiful!
Soon, another stick flew into the wheel: the manager of the online store called and said that part of the mosaic would be on paper, and part on the grid. Not attaching much importance to it, I said that I did not care. And in vain I did not pay attention to it in advance. The fact is that my “stretch”, forming an abstraction pattern on the wall, is conditionally divided into “belts” or levels. And you can’t confuse and glue these levels, as you have to, otherwise you won’t get the right picture on the wall.
Of course, I also purchased glue, spatulas, grout, and everything else and related. To finish with the purchases, I’ll tell you what jambs I had to work with:
Mosaic, both to paper and to the grid, was initially glued crooked at the factory! The gaps between the tiles come across uneven! I just hate these bastard manufacturers from the Asian region! But this is not enough! Shades of the same level of mosaic on paper, and the same level on the grid are different! This is visible to the naked eye. But, of course, I discovered this only at home, and then, when I started preparing for gluing and more than 2 weeks had passed, and the exchange or replacement of the goods was no longer possible. Of course, it was possible to buck and shout something about protecting consumer rights, but there was no time to do this, and I didn’t want to waste my nerves and time.
Spatula - notched 4 mm - quite satisfied. Glue - very, very good two-component. Closed only with latex (according to the manufacturer's instructions). Suitable for swimming pools. Latex cures to form a generally waterproof film. Yes, and it was glued to the wall so that if it was necessary to remove the tile, it could fall off with the plaster! The only thing that strained: according to the manufacturer's recommendations, the latex adhesive had to be diluted in a ratio of 4:1. And when I spread it according to these recommendations, the glue turned out to be so thick - almost like plasticine! It is impossible to put it on the wall. And if you suffer and still apply, then the glued mosaic, even if it was leveled, turned out to be glued with “bumps”. Soon I abandoned the idea: to dilute the glue correctly, and began to knead it incorrectly - by eye in viscosity to the density of thick sour cream. It was more comfortable and familiar that way.
Excess glue on the wall is also not needed. Perhaps it is necessary to glue without sparing the glue, but after removing the paper base, this excess stuck out at the seams and spoiled the look so much that I wanted to swear! The volume on the spatula was determined empirically. The main thing is that the glue does not stick out in large quantities through the mosaic seams. (Although the operation will show - it may be better when the glue crawls out through the cracks everywhere). I just didn’t like the sight of a rut that got out. My IMHO - there should be a zarirka in the seams!
Also, after watching a video of gluing a mosaic on YouTube, I heard a recommendation there: remove the paper base shortly after gluing. This is motivated by the fact that after removing the base on not dried glue, you can correct the location of the mosaic tiles. DO NOT try to do that! Following this recommendation, at first, along with the paper, several “mosaics” always flew off the wall, and all the rest moved! Then it is quite difficult to place them evenly on the wall. In short: the stronger the mosaic sticks, the better! I then generally removed the paper the next day. Even if it was necessary to make adjustments to the drawing, you can pick out a few mosaics with an ordinary slotted screwdriver or a knife, without fear of damaging or moving adjacent tiles. And then glue as needed.
And then, as I wrote above, to correct the color and shade, I simply cut out several mosaics on the floor with a sharp knife in a common grid before gluing, after which I glued the grid to the wall, and manually pasted single mosaics of the desired color into the cut out places. Boring and long - but nowhere to go.
Another trouble: the mesh and paper glued on the wall have different sizes! This is due to the fact that the paper is less rigid than the mesh, and when you move it along the wall, making the necessary gaps with neighboring tiles, the paper is deformed, crumpled or stretched. Please bear this in mind when applying! And even better - never buy a mosaic on paper and on a grid in one set!
Also, at first I was very tormented: those ordinary crosses for tiles are not quite suitable for mosaics. Mosaic base, mesh or paper, - soft. Having put the crosses in the seams with the mosaic, which, for example, is pasted below, the base still slowly slides down, pressing down tightly on the lower crosses and violating the arrangement of the side ones. This annoyed me greatly, and I began to additionally fix the mosaic base with paper masking tape from above directly to the wall. After that, it became much better and more convenient.
Another tip - if you work with mosaics - be sure to buy a laser self-leveling level. An irreplaceable thing. When working with a good and even tile - I set one corner correctly, you can also plumb - and went to lay it to the next corner. This will not work with a mosaic, especially if you do not have much experience, and you are faced with a mosaic for the first time. I tried to control each row with the help of a laser level. And anyway - I would really like to stick it more evenly than it turned out in real life.
No matter how hard I tried, no matter how I avoided mistakes, they still turned out. If the manufacturer cannot evenly glue the mosaic tiles to the base, then what can we take from the one who did it for the first time? Therefore, I decided to correct my main jambs in the form of uneven gluing “surgically”! The tool of the “surgeon” was a grinder with a 115mm stone disc! It was to her that I walked along the seams between the mosaic tiles. Those tiles that moved or moved away from the place where they were supposed to hang were carefully sharpened and filed by the grinder right along the seam. Gently, slowly, without undue pressure and diligence. Pay attention to the thickness of the disk. It would be ideal if it matches in thickness with the mosaic seams. Glass tiles (it turns out!) Can be slightly sharpened on either side. They will not burst, although they are made of glass! Unless, of course, you overdo it. It is possible, and even necessary, in such cases, to carefully chamfer the mosaic without damaging the seam deeply. The chamfer will be rubbed with grout and everything will be fine. The basic principle - the better the mosaic will look without grout - the better for the owner. Grout hides flaws and jambs very well. But if it is already crookedly glued - no grout will save! So I tried and leveled the little mosaic tiles as best I could.
Unlike ordinary tiles, which can be cut in any place with millimeter precision using a tile cutter, another difficulty when working with mosaics is the inability to cut a glass mosaic sheet like a tile. You can cut it only to a multiple of the size of a mosaic pebble, that is, simply cut off an unnecessary row from a paper or mesh base. But sawing each pebble in half will not work, even if you do it with a grinder. However, on the forum I saw advice on how to cut a mosaic - it is also pasted over with paper tape and sawed with the same grinder. But I tried to avoid it. And for a long time before the sticker I measured out, put marks on the wall, or laid out the mosaic on the floor from corner to corner along the future mosaic wall. And if, nevertheless, it was not possible to fit the “tutelka into the tyutelka”, you can make a strobe in the corner of the wall to fit the thickness of the tile, if the extreme row of tiles on the base does not fit completely. Then inserting a mat with tiles, the last of them will be in this strobe and everything turns out OK. However, several times I still had to cut directly on the tiles. But they do crack. The best result is obtained if the tiles are still not sawn, but are ground down by the same grinder with a stone disc. And try not to overheat them.
Is it necessary to say here that the room where the mosaic will be pasted must be ideally prepared? Therefore, before gluing, I prepared and puttied and removed my future bathroom for a very long time. And still 1-2 mm errors were obtained.
In conclusion, I will throw a few photos. Despite the fact that I shot with a mobile phone, the jambs that need to be avoided are perfectly visible. There are bad photos here. I specifically provided them here so that those who, like me, dare to work with mosaics for the first time, can see what they need to be afraid of and try to avoid. Well, as soon as I finish the bathroom, we'll see what happened in the end.

Today, there is a huge variety of finishing materials, thanks to which you can create an original interior in a room, focusing on a particular area or finishing the entire surface. These products include mosaic tiles, whose decorative possibilities are striking in their diversity.

Types and composition

A wall in a room lined with mosaics, or a whole pool - in any case, the result of using such products will exceed all expectations. Moreover, laying the tiles can be entrusted to the master or carried out independently. But in order for the work to be carried out efficiently, a suitable adhesive composition is needed. Most modern and domestic manufacturers of building materials offer the consumer special adhesives for these works.

It is rather difficult to single out the highest quality adhesive composition, which will save on consumption for 1 m2 of working area, since each type of product has individual characteristics and properties.

Types of adhesive for mosaics are classified based on its composition. There are three main types of products.

Dry composition

It is produced when white or gray cement is included in the mixture, due to which its color is set. Cement adhesive for work must be prepared - in the specified proportion, the powder is mixed with water or latex. The composition can be elastic, highly elastic and rigid. Each of the above adhesive solutions has a narrow scope, based on the type of surface from which it is necessary to fix the tile.

Rigid mixture is used when working with a flat mineral base, it can safely process brick or plastered walls, foam blocks, concrete surfaces. Dry mixes have a positive feature, which concerns their low cost. For non-standard cases, experts prefer to choose mixtures with good elasticity. The use of such products makes sense in situations where it is required to lay mosaics on surfaces that do not absorb moisture and have little resistance to temperature fluctuations, for example, for facing "warm" floors.

Elastic compounds perfectly fix products on a base that is subject to vibration, which is important for rooms located in buildings that are close to the metro or railway.

Dispersion adhesives

This mixture can be used immediately after purchase for mosaic work. It is a one-component adhesive, the main advantage of which is ease of use. It is convenient to apply the mixture on the bases in residential premises, since it does not form any waste and dust when performing the assigned tasks. For surface treatment, you don’t need a lot of funds, the mixture does not dry out and does not lose its properties, it does not need to be kneaded, since the glue in the container is already completely ready for use. After finishing the lining, the container with glue must be tightly closed with a lid. The ease of use of the product more than makes up for its cost.

Two-component adhesive

The reactive composition includes a hardener and a base, which react with each other, due to which the product acquires the ability to securely fix the tile. Products where the basis is an epoxy or polyurethane component are more in demand.

The solution is needed to perform labor-intensive tasks associated with tiling surfaces with mosaics.

And since it does not contain water, the adhesive is used for substrates that are susceptible to moisture, in particular for stone surfaces.

And also it is successfully used for glass, wood and plastic products.

To work correctly with such glue, you need some experience.- it is applied to a small area with quick and clear movements, since the mixture instantly hardens, after which it will no longer be possible to use it.

Therefore, the excess adhesive mass of the two-component composition must be promptly removed from the mosaic, since over time it will be quite problematic to remove it from the tile.

Which is better to choose?

In order not to be mistaken with the choice of composition, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the base to be decorated, the area of \u200b\u200buse of the premises and conditions. And also, before buying a mosaic adhesive, it would be useful to take into account the time allotted for facing the base. For those cases where the time allotted is very short, it is better to prefer quick-drying products.

A solid and even surface will be an ideal base, since the application of the composition will not have any obstacles, the mosaic will be securely fixed on such a wall or ceiling.

Facing plaster or cement screeds is qualitatively performed by any product. The decor of an uneven surface, laying mosaics on waterproofing or old ceramic tiles is best done with a highly elastic mixture.

An important nuance is the type of mosaic. Based on the specifics of the products, the choice of adhesive composition for work is carried out.

For glass elements, it is necessary to carefully select the mixture for fixing, since glass tiles are very capricious in terms of installation. Through the transparent glass elements you can see the base and the materials below. For this type of mosaic, it is worth buying a white mixture.

The gray composition applied under the tile can ruin the ornament of the composition which will adversely affect the appearance of the surface. You can opt for an adhesive solution, which contains white cement or products based on polyurethane.

If a mirror glass mosaic on a paper base is used for decoration, which is often laid in pools, elastic glue of any color, even black, is suitable for work. Liquid latex is further included in such formulations that will function with moisture.

Mosaic on a grid or paper has no fundamental differences in terms of the choice of glue. However, the technology of laying sheets requires marking on the base for an even pattern. During the fixation of such a mosaic, it is necessary to monitor the complete immersion of the wrong side of the material into the composition.

In order to select the appropriate adhesive for natural stone mosaics, such as marble decoration elements, the variety is first taken into account. Since some breeds can change their shade when in contact with moisture. For such work, it is better to purchase a cement or reactive composition.

Ceramic mosaic is resistant to water, therefore, in this case, it is necessary to select the adhesive composition based on the type of surface for cladding.

For "diamond" mosaic tiles, which is the most expensive type of decor that allows you to create a unique design in the room, special adhesives are used, they are included by the manufacturer in the product package and are sold together.

How to use?

A mosaic canvas consists of a large number of elements on a special basis - a grid, paper, and a foil substrate. This product configuration provides it with a high level of flexibility, and products can be cut into elements of the desired size.

Adhesion of the adhesive composition to the base increases if the surface is primed.

Based on the basis of the mosaic canvas, the gluing of the product is carried out according to a certain technology. The tile on the construction mesh base is simply fixed on the surface. No more additional work is required. Cloths on a paper base are first attached with the back side out to soak the base, after which it is removed.

After the product is attached to the base, it must be leveled and drowned in the surface, for a uniform arrangement of the elements. Residues of adhesive in the joints between the tiles must be removed while it is still fresh, using a spatula. This is followed by the most time-consuming process - grouting the joints between the parts.

Stamps

There are cases when, in order to save money, masters use ordinary or silicone tile adhesive to tile the surface with mosaics. However, many compositions are unsuitable for such work in their consistency, as they will be too thick or, conversely, liquid. In the latter version, the canvas simply will not hold on to the base, and the presence of aggressive substances in the composition can harm the decorative material.