DIY winch - simple manufacturing methods. The idea of \ u200b \ u200bcreating a hand winch from an old bicycle Homemade chain winch for lifting with your own hands
Hello everyone!
I have long wanted to buy a winch. None of the store options for up to RUB 3,000. did not inspire confidence, and for a long time I thought about ways to make my own winch.
Once on the Internet I found information that a brake ratchet from a truck can be taken as a basis. The advantages of such a winch are that a stopper is not needed, it works in both directions.
In addition to the standard set of tools, you will need electric welding.
Winch application
Such a winch will help not only on the road, or rather off-road, but also in the garage. With its help, you can independently tighten a faulty car into the garage, onto a mini overpass (2 boards and 2 stumps), it will also help to raise or lower the weight into the basement, and remove the motor from the car.Materials for making
- Ratchet az9100440005 - 587 rub.
- Pulley 21013701051 2x116 r. = 232 p.
- Rope 10 mx 30 r. = 300 p.
Disassembling a Chinese ratchet
First, I cut off the rivets and removed the covers. I also unscrewed the plug and pulled out a spring and a ball - this was a worm stopper, it is no longer needed.
Winch manufacturing
It was decided to make two drums for uniform rope winding. For the manufacture of drum cheeks, collapsible pulleys of the VAZ generator were purchased.Although you can make such washers yourself, I liked this option more. No bearings needed.
A 10 m long cable was also purchased.
It was not possible to find a shaft with the corresponding splines, and I did not look for it, so I just decided to make a shaft out of a tube and weld it into the gear.
The shaft was inserted into the gear with a gap, to choose it, I decided to make a spacer from a thin-walled tube.
I cut out a centering insert from a thin-walled tube.
This is what the installed shaft looks like.
I welded the shaft to the gear, cooled the entire structure in working off. The rivet holes were threaded for screws.
Now it was necessary to expand the holes in the inner cheeks of the drums, for this a turner was needed. Or a good driller)
Cheeks prepared for installation.
To reduce the size of the structure, the heads of the screws were cut down almost to the root, which gave a saving of 11 mm and a significant reduction in the amount of dirt that gets between the cheeks and the body of the ratchet.
And the dirt that gets there anyway will come out back when the mechanism is injected. With the help of fragments of a cutting wheel 1 mm thick, I leveled the gap between the cheeks and the body and scalded it.
It turned out something like this.
Lightly colored for the sake of appearance.
First rope winding. While manually, it is unlikely that it will be wound as neatly in work.
I decided to adjust the length of the cable by simply pulling the excess to the side. The ends of the cable were soldered and slightly bent.
At first I wanted to find some kind of block for the cable, but I decided to make a simple equalizer with a hook, because the cable is wound almost evenly.
For the cable guides, I decided to use inner races from single row ball bearings.
After sawing the outer clips, I took out the inner ones, for some reason sawing them too.
I decided to weld the guides to the strip.
On the reverse side, I welded a hook, having previously selected a position in which the hook point will be in line with the guides.
Painted for show.
I decided to do a little test.
I didn't bury myself on purpose, but such a winch pulls a braked car. If more effort is needed, then a loop can be made at one end of the cable and thrown over the drum. Use a block instead of an equalizer. Thus, one side of the cable will be wound, the other will slide along the drum. In this case, the block will give twice the thrust.
There are many ideas for different crafts based on a bicycle, its individual parts. Among them, there are those related to household chores, in particular, tillage on personal plots. The device in the form of a winch, powered by a bicycle drive, is simple, allows one person to perform plowing, hilling, and loosening operations without tiring him too much.
To make a bicycle winch, you need a road bike of a conventional design with a closed frame. You will need: a broken engine from a moped, for example, type D-6; large bicycle sprocket; a hub from a moped wheel together with an axle; metal corners, tubes, sheet.
The bike is not redesigned; only the chain is lengthened.
They make a small alteration of the moped engine. Cut the top wall of the cover and crankcase above the drive sprocket. This is done between the bosses, leaving them and the existing thread. On a lathe, the thickness of the sprocket ring gear is reduced to 2.6 mm - this is necessary to be able to position the bicycle chain on it.
The crankshaft is compressed, the connecting rod is removed, and everything is compressed again. The existing bearings are filled with graphite grease. They make a cover from a sheet of metal and close the place where the cylinder is attached with it. The crankshaft will play the role of a flywheel in the craft.
The converted motor is attached to the bike frame at the top of the frame. Place it down with an asterisk. The chain is lengthened to accommodate three sprockets - two on the bike and one on the converted moped engine.
On the handlebars of the bicycle, on the left side, a handle is installed, a cable is drawn from it to the motor. With its help, the clutch is controlled.
The converted bike is suitable for normal riding. To start driving, you need to disengage the clutch. When the road goes downhill, then it is turned on - the flywheel begins to rotate and store energy, which will help in the future to overcome uphills.
A converted bicycle can be used to make a winch that will be used for household chores. In place of its rear wheel, an attachment is placed, consisting of a frame carrying a winch drum, equipped with an asterisk, and a cable. It is also equipped with lugs and a cable-laying loop.
The drum is made from a moped wheel hub, to which round metal flanges are attached on the sides. Supplied with a large bicycle sprocket.
There are two lugs. They are made using 12-centimeter pieces of corners. The outer edges of the shelves are sharpened for easy entry into the ground. The corners are welded to the edges of a half-meter segment of the corner, which serves as a support on the surface of the earth.
A soft wire is used for the wire rope loop. It is attached to the frame so that the taut cable lies in the middle of the drum surface.
The attachment is attached to the bike in two places: with a hairpin in the place where the rear wheel is installed; clamps covering the two frame tubes in the space between the first mount and the carriage with pedals.
First, the lower part of the attachment is assembled using welding. Then an axle is attached to it, on which the winch drum is installed. Place the upper part on top and fix it on the bike frame. In this case, the chain is pre-installed on all three sprockets.
Readers of "MK" have long been familiar with the enthusiast of home-made tillage equipment, an amateur designer from Nizhny Tagil, Grigory Ivanovich ODEGOV. After all, it was he who managed to develop one of the most efficient motor winches, which surpasses both walk-behind tractors and milling cutters and even micro tractors in performance. And this despite the fact that the engine of the Odegovsky motor winch is just a power unit of the old "Vyatka".
Today we present to you two foot operated bike winches. One of them was developed by G.I. Odegov, and the other is a modernized version of Grigory Ivanovich's winch, designed in the creative laboratory "Eureka".
According to the bike winch designer, a pedal-driven tillage unit is much more efficient than a shovel and a towed plow driven by the efforts of one or two people.
Pedal winch G.I. Odegova is structured as follows. It is based on a light tubular frame on which a drum is mounted, the cheeks of which are ratchet wheels. Oscillating pedals with ratchet latches are mounted on the same axis. Both pedals have springs that return each to the top position. The ratchet latches are also spring-loaded.
The winch frame is welded from steel pipes with a diameter of 22 ... 32 mm. The drum is a piece of pipe with an outer diameter of about 300 mm, to which two steel discs with a diameter of 380 mm and a thickness of about 4 mm are welded. To turn these discs into ratchet wheels, G.I. Odegov cut asymmetric teeth around the circumference of each - the depth of each is about 5 mm and the pitch is about 10 mm. In principle, the work could be somewhat facilitated by cutting through every second triangular depression - this is quite enough for the normal operation of the ratchet mechanism.
In principle, a simpler ratchet could be made, as shown in our figures. For this, holes with a diameter of 8 ... 10 mm are drilled on the lateral surface of each of the drum cheeks around the circumference. Of course, this also changes the design of the ratchet, as shown in the picture of the modernized bike winch.
The levers of the pedal drive of such a unit are welded, made of steel pipes of round or rectangular cross-section. On one side of each of the levers, a bushing is welded - a piece of steel pipe with an inner diameter of 20 mm, on the other - the axis of the pedals. The latter are easiest to pick up ready-made - from a bicycle, although it is not too difficult to make homemade ones, bending a steel strip about 3 mm thick in the shape of a letter P. When using homemade pedals, the axles can be threaded rods welded to the outside of each pedal arm.
The axis of the drum and the levers of the pedal drive is a steel rod with a diameter of 20 mm, the ends of which are machined to a length of 30 mm and an M14 thread is cut on them.
1 - drum cheek, 2 - drive lever, 3 - pedal, 4 - cable, 5 - longitudinal frame element, 6 - lock, 7 post, 8 - brace, 9 - anchor, 10 - rear cross member, 11 - drum, 12 - front cross member, 13 - drum bushing, 14 - bushings, 15 - drive lever hub, 16 - nut with washers, 17 - drum axis and winch drive levers, 18 - flange, 19 - ratchet pawl, 20 - ratchet spring, 21 - ear, 22 - return spring of the drive lever.
The drum of the modernized winch is a piece of steel pipe with an outer diameter of 300 mm, to which two steel discs 3 mm thick and 380 mm in diameter are welded. In the center of each of the disks, holes with a diameter of 30 mm are drilled, and nylon bushings are pressed into them (you can also use fluoroplastic, textolite or bronze).
The winch is an indispensable tool, both in the household and in the garage. Raise a roll of roofing material on the roof, throw a couple of bags of cement into the window of the second floor of a private house under construction, remove the engine from the hood space, and drag the broken car itself into the garage ... This is an incomplete list of things that can be easily done alone with its help.
Drum-type devices for lifting or moving weights, differ in the way they transmit torque. From the school physics course, we know how the shoulder works. Losing speed or distance - we gain strength. The phrase of Archimedes: "Give me a fulcrum and I will turn the Earth" just describes the principle of the winch.
IMPORTANT! When working with such a device, the points of support are the body and the place of attachment of the winch. Both elements must be reliable.
A hand winch, with the help of an applied shoulder, increases human strength so much that one operator can move cars or lift weights of several hundred kilograms. With the same (from the point of view of mechanics) principle of operation, these devices have different ways of execution.
Hand drum winch - varieties
The reel hand winch is a classic of the genre. In addition to the common element - the pulley on which the cable is wound, the devices have various types of drive.
A large, main gear is firmly attached to the drum. The whole load falls on it, and on the mount. Therefore, the reliability of the elements must be at the proper level. In engagement with the main gear, there is a small drive gear.
The ratio of the number of teeth is the value of the gear ratio. Simply put - the gain. The pinion gear is integral with the drive shaft. Since we are talking about a hand tool - a handle for rotation is put on the shaft.
The length of the arm also affects the amount of reinforcement. The larger the handle shoulder, the less effort you need to apply.
With the help of such devices, you can single-handedly lift several quintals of cargo or move a vehicle weighing 2-3 tons. In this case, the rotation speed of the drum is quite high.
The design consists of two or more pairs of gears, each of which has an amplification factor of tens of times. With successive engagement, these coefficients add up, multiplying the force.
The flip side of the coin is a proportional decrease in speed. With such a winch, you can carry out slow vertical lifting of loads of more than a ton, but if you have to work with two bags of cement, the lifting time will stretch for tens of minutes.
