Types of thermostats for radiators. Thermostat for radiator increases comfort and reduces costs

Are the windows in your apartment open even in extreme cold? Can't achieve the optimal indoor temperature? Then this article is addressed specifically to you. In order to regulate the temperature in the radiator, and also ensure the uninterrupted and safe operation of the heating system, several types of protective and control units are used.

Before you purchase thermostat for radiator, which have various reviews on the Internet, let's look at the main types of these devices, the principle of operation, technical characteristics and the correctness of their use.

Main types:

- ball valve
- manual cone valve
- automatic regulator or thermostat

A ball valve performs only two main functions: open and closed. Whatever the position of the tap, your heating radiator may become depressurized. Therefore, the operation of the ball valve will be ineffective.

A manual cone valve regulates the temperature much more reliably than. It may not be completely covered. But using such a valve will require your constant presence and attention.

How does a manual cone valve work?:

We twist the mechanism, activating the valve stem. But, if the valve constantly opens and closes, its protective cap can be damaged, i.e. damage the entire device.

The most optimal thermostat option in our time is considered to be automatic thermostat for radiator heating.

In automatic devices, the temperature valve functions in conjunction with the radiator thermal head and quickly responds even to minor temperature fluctuations. As the temperature drops, the liquid in the thermal cartridge narrows, the valve stem extends, the flow of water from the heating system increases, and the temperature rises.

If, on the contrary, it is very hot in your house, the automatic device of the device will independently start the reverse process, and the air temperature will begin to drop.

Temperature controllers receive a signal to the thermostat component from various sources:

- water from the heating system
- indoor air
- outdoor air

Installing a thermostat is carried out on the radiator itself, if the radiator is not covered with anything. If you have a thermostat with an air temperature sensor, place the device at a short distance from the valve (up to 1 cm). You can also install it in the radiator cap itself. To set the thermostat, turn off the water, drain it, then get to work.

What needs to be done:

- cut the pipe at a certain distance from the radiator and remove it

— it is better to dismantle the ball valve in front of the radiator

— insert the shanks from the caps into the radiator plugs

- tie the radiator

- connect the distribution pipes


To adjust the operation of our device, you need to close the vents, doors, and windows. Don't let warm air escape from your home. Place a regular thermometer in the room where the thermostat is installed. Open the regulator valve all the way.

When the air temperature rises by 6 degrees, close the valve. When you hear the sound of coolant entering the radiator, the valve will heat up. Remember what position the valve head is in at this moment. This way, you can configure the equipment yourself.

If the thermostat is installed in a place covered by furniture or curtains, then its operation will be ineffective. If it is not possible to place the device in another location, use remote control sensors with a clip-on sensing element.

It is completely justified to purchase a mini-regulator, which, as practice shows, is not inferior in properties to classic ones.

Some “professionals” install a special shut-off valve in the system, placing it on the back side of the radiator. In this case, it is not difficult to dismantle or without turning off the system. When the heating season comes to an end, the thermostat must be opened by turning it counterclockwise.

Another type of thermostats for radiators is electronic thermostats, based on the automatic operating principle. Electronic thermostats maintain the desired temperature in the heating system and automatically control the mixer, valves, and pumps.

A special temperature sensor is built into the electronic thermostat or installed externally, which transmits information to the device about the state of the temperature of the room in which it is located.

Electronic thermostat for radiator

Electronic thermostats come in two types:

- with open logic
- with closed logic

In everyday life, thermostats with closed logic are more often used. Open logic thermostats are used in industrial production.

Thermostats are not only liquid, but also gas-filled.

Gas-filled thermostats react faster to room temperature fluctuations, because their functioning is not related to water temperature. Such thermostats quickly respond to the dynamics of temperature changes, which contributes to a more efficient supply of heat.

Please note that when using a thermostat, much greater results can only be achieved when the device is first installed in rooms with large temperature fluctuations, for example, in the kitchen.

So, open windows and vents are left behind, since you have purchased a much-needed thermostat for your heating radiator.

Advantages of modern thermostats:

— simply installed into the system, requiring no maintenance or preventive maintenance

— operating range from 5 to 28 degrees

— they ensure uniform distribution of coolant throughout the system

- there is no excessive increase in air temperature in the room

— savings of about 25% are provided

- the microclimate of the room is significantly improved

Heating systems can be as reliable and powerful as you like, but the practicality of their use can be low. The reason is the lack of a specialized control device. As a result, in winter there is either not enough heat, or a considerable part of the personal budget is spent literally through open windows (this is especially unpleasant in private homes).

Device and purpose

If a water temperature regulator is installed in the heating system, it adapts to the created need the rate of passage of coolant into the radiator. By installing such a device together with a heat meter, you can save money and reduce wasteful energy consumption. Depending on the needs and capabilities of residents, it is worth buying models with manual temperature programming for the day and night, or with pre-planned microclimate parameters for specific days. These functions can be combined with each other. Then it will be possible to both eliminate unnecessary heating during warm hours and quickly prepare for the approaching frosts or thaws.

The differences are expressed largely in the specific way in which the temperature sensor is implemented and what its basic operating principle is. Some models measure the air temperature in rooms, while others focus on heating the water in the main. This does not affect the accuracy of measurement and adjustment to real needs. The main thing is that all the nuances and subtleties are taken into account. In most cases, too precise equipment is not needed, since it only burdens the personal budget.

Each room can be equipped with its own thermostat; it is even possible to use devices of different brands and models. The signal to the control relay can come from a sensor that measures the temperature of the coolant in the radiators. But such a scheme is considered outdated and does not meet the latest technical requirements. The thermostat is fundamentally incompatible with cast iron batteries. Only if radiators of a more modern design are installed in the room is it allowed to use it.

You need to understand that thermostats are not some kind of “magic” solution; with their help, it is impossible to extract more energy from the heating system than it is capable of supplying. But they are quite capable of reducing heat consumption or increasing it to the maximum as needed. A typical design includes not only a valve and a unit that receives signals from the control panel. The thermal valve and thermal head are very important elements. The selection of parts is made according to the size of the pipeline and the type of heating system.

In addition to the components already mentioned, the thermostat may include:

• collapsible connection;
• spool;
• compensating block;
• throw-on nut;
• fastening ring;
• scale on which the temperature is adjusted.

Principle of operation

A mechanical thermostatic valve for a radiator begins to work with support from the bellows of the rod. The rod opens the lumen of the pipeline. As soon as the temperature of the substance inside the bellows increases, it puts pressure on the rod, systematically lowering it. Therefore, the section in the channel passage is closed. Less and less water or antifreeze passes through the radiator, and the liquid that is inside inevitably cools down. Since the thermal agent also loses heat, it enters the initial phase and pulls the rod up.

Since after the rod rises, the coolant flow again passes inside the radiator without obstacles, the cycle repeats. The gas thermal agent has an increased rate of reaction to temperature, but the technological complexity of its use increases the cost of the mechanism. The liquid does not adapt to heating or cooling so quickly, but it allows the device to be somewhat cheaper. However, the real difference in practical use is relatively small. After all, the regulators adjust the temperature with an accuracy of 1 degree.

Varieties

The thermostatic valve is similar in appearance to a standard valve. Inside there is a saddle and a locking cone that opens or blocks the lumen of the canal. The difference is largely due to whether the system is installed in a single-pipe or two-pipe circuit. Thus, a thermostat for single-pipe heating is characterized by reduced hydraulic resistance. Most often the difference is 2 times.

If the heating system operates on the principle of natural circulation, it is most often equipped with the same set of valves as for single-pipe systems. This will lead to an increase in hydraulic resistance, but the equipment will still operate stably. In a two-pipe design, only devices designed for increased resistance to fluid flow are naturally used. If you choose the wrong regulator, it will not be possible to ensure rational heating of the air in the room. Moreover, the selected system must be installed in strict compliance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

Companies that manufacture valves actively use:

• bronze (covered on the outside with a layer of nickel and chromium);
• brass (it is plated only with nickel);
• stainless steel.

The advantage of these three metals is 100% corrosion resistance. Stainless steel valves withstand harsh operating conditions better than others. But the cost of purchasing them will not please consumers much. Therefore, most people choose brass and bronze parts, which will last almost as long as steel structures. Important: only products from leading companies purchased at official retail outlets have the necessary characteristics.

According to the design scheme, it is customary to distinguish between straight and angular types of thermostatic valves.

Inside the thermostats there is one of three subtypes of thermal heads:

• manual;
• mechanical;
• electronic (automatic).

The range of solved problems is the same in any case, but the practical action is significantly different. The manual device works on the same principle as a household faucet. When the control device is turned, the amount of coolant passing through the apparatus changes. In most cases, the control system is installed on both sides of the radiators, replacing ball valves. Simplicity and reliability of use together with low cost will suit anyone who is ready to regulate the flow themselves.

A programmable thermostat may not be essentially different from a manual one., the only difference is that the adjustment to the sensations is made using an electronic control unit. The weather-dependent mechanism processes signals coming from temperature-measuring sensors and changes its operating mode accordingly. Often these two categories of devices overlap. After all, it is necessary not only to adapt the action of the system to certain parameters, to external conditions, but also to individually set the type of this reaction. Note that mechanical systems can also be used without manual control.

They always have a bellows, that is, an elastic cylinder that is filled with liquids or gases characterized by significant thermal expansion. The mechanics should be mounted towards the middle of the room. This increases the accuracy of the measurements taken. If the size of the head is too large, you sometimes have to use a remote sensor. Such a regulator is not connected directly, but through small tubes, and provides the smallest error, but is more expensive than other options.

The electric regulator is larger than all others, and therefore installation is the most complicated. In addition to the installed measuring circuits, it is necessary to provide a power supply. To avoid stringing wires, pairs of small batteries are most often used as current sources. The microprocessor works very accurately and provides additional functions. Most often, the output level of radiators is varied depending on the time of day.

Many automatic thermostats are equipped with a mixing unit, pump, and so on. Data transmission via wireless communication channels is sometimes a useful option. Returning to the way the sensor measures temperature, it is worth noting that measurement in the coolant flow, despite the opinion that such devices are outdated, is useful due to its low cost. Therefore, such a scheme has a certain number of adherents.

An air meter is more effective than a water meter; it is placed not on radiators, but inside the room. Weather automation is considered the most advanced and allows you to eliminate unjustified temperature fluctuations in the event of changes in weather conditions. As a result, it is possible not only to provide comfort, but also to reduce fuel consumption. If a differential regulator is not needed, and there is a desire to make do with a cheaper combination of valve and inductor, installation is permissible on both inlet and outlet pipes. All other points are purely individual.

When choosing an electronic regulator, you should assume that it can be installed anywhere, but only at a certain distance from heating devices, pipes and radiators. Programmable controllers are usually divided into two key types. In the case of so-called closed logic, only individual parameters can be adjusted. Open logic is distinguished by increased capabilities for customization and adaptation to current conditions. Most people prefer a closed device because it eliminates the need to worry about tedious, obscure settings.

Setup and operation

In principle, you can use temperature sensors with industrial settings. But they will almost certainly differ from the optimal parameters. The adjustment begins with starting the heating system without a regulator and measuring the resulting temperature. This measurement is made strictly in the place that needs to be serviced first. Please note: when setting up, doors and windows are thoroughly closed, without leaving even small gaps.

The head of the thermostat is set to a mode that provides a completely open lumen. As soon as the temperature exceeds the desired value by 5 degrees, the regulator is switched to the closed position. Having detected a drop in temperature to the most acceptable level, you should smoothly open the control device. Then, having noticed noise and the beginning of warming up of the radiator, you should stop further manipulations and record the current position of the regulator. Subsequently, in order to live comfortably, you will have to indicate exactly this position of the regulator.

Of course, there will be no universal position for it. Additional settings are made when the season changes or during a sharp cold snap (thaw). If the device will be configured manually, it is advisable to immediately mount it where access is most convenient. However, for automated systems the same rule applies in most cases. After all, access will still be needed for installation, initial setup, maintenance, repair and subsequent dismantling.

Before setting up, it is recommended to turn off hoods and air conditioning equipment. If the regulator is made on the basis of modern electronics, the setting comes down to the choice of heat supply modes. In suburban housing and dachas, the most common choice is intensive heating on weekends and preventing the system from freezing on weekdays. Of course, depending on individual needs, the situation may be completely different. Other configuration details depend on the characteristics of the equipment used.

Installation

The regulator can be attached to the battery at different heights. Note: this parameter is determined by constructors and cannot be changed arbitrarily. It is usually assumed that the connection will occur to the upper collectors at a height of 0.6-0.8 m above the floor. But installing the thermostat this way will not work if the radiators are connected from below.

You can cope with this difficulty:

• adding a bottom tap containing a regulator;
• installation of a remote sensor;
• self-adjustment of thermostatic heads.

The setup process is not particularly complicated; all stages are outlined in the documentation provided. The insertion is made through the threads available on the valves, using fittings or by cutting threads on the pipe. In any case, it is worth considering all the details before installing the device. The approach to working in an apartment building is significantly different. If heating occurs through a single-pipe system, it would be correct to install a bypass.

The reason is that without bypasses the thermostat will change the heating throughout the riser. This is not only impractical, but may also result in a fine for violating the interests of other residents of the house. Contrary to popular belief, installing control equipment in bedrooms is not advisable. It would be much more correct to install it in those rooms where there is a temperature difference or where people are often present. First of all, this is the kitchen and living area. And in the bedroom it is recommended to install a simple valve that controls the flow of heat.

In two-story buildings, the recommended location of the thermostat is on the second floors. This is where the warm air is directed, and the first floor invariably turns out colder. Thermostats with sensors are installed in those rooms where the movement of air flow is unobstructed. The indicator is placed strictly horizontally so that it shows a reliable picture. It should be taken into account during installation that the thermostat valves are equipped with an external thread on one end, and oriented inward on the other.

The device is screwed into the radiator plugs with external sections of the required diameter (½ or 4 inches); If the heating system is not created from scratch, all water should be drained from it before installation work begins. It is not allowed to place automatic thermostats behind thick fabric drapery or behind a decorative screen. If you do this, the system will begin to measure the heating inside the cavity that appears, and not in the room itself. The solution to the problem is either the use of a remote sensor, or placing the regulator on horizontal sections of the system, as close as possible to the entrance to the radiator. When the heating season ends, the thermostat is opened to avoid sediment accumulation.

As soon as the inlet riser is closed and the water is drained, the horizontal supply circuits are cut off near the radiator. The cut parts and shut-off valves are disconnected from the batteries. The general system, made in a single-pipe version, is additionally equipped with a jumper between the inlet and outlet circuits. On the valves of regulators and shut-off valves, the shanks with nuts are removed, then they are screwed into the radiator plugs. Next, the piping is assembled, which must be installed in a predetermined area. This harness is connected to a horizontal line; bypasses are placed 1 inch smaller than the pipes supplying water.

Only in the most extreme cases can a ball valve be connected. Such a device does not regulate the temperature effectively enough, because there are only two preset modes: open and closed, and if you try an intermediate position, the coolant will quickly damage the working part. Cone-shaped valves are somewhat more efficient, since partial opening is normal for them. But periodically you will have to return the regulator to its original position. Therefore, we repeat once again, there is no particular alternative to full-fledged thermostats.

When designing a circuit for installing a thermostat with your own hands, you should focus not only on air circulation in a certain room.

Very important:

• thermal regime behind the walls of the building;
• illumination of a certain place by direct sunlight;
• the presence of additional sources of cold or heating in the room.

When installing thermostats for heated floors, air temperature sensors or thermostats containing them are most often installed in places where slight shadow is created. There should be no heat sources in these areas, and the sun's rays should not directly fall there. The installation height is about 1.5 m. With adequate selection of the type of device, it is possible to save up to 70% of energy consumption. For small rooms, it is recommended to choose the simplest devices with little functionality; Bathrooms and utility rooms should always be warm, because visiting them is unpredictable.

It is not advisable to install thermal heads on each heating device. Only those radiators whose total thermal power exceeds 50% of the generation in a particular room are subject to adjustment. When there are two radiators, place a thermostat on the one that is more powerful. If there is equality in this indicator, they focus on the device closest to the heat source.

If you plan to use one device to control two or more rooms, it is better to turn to professionals. It is much easier to use two regulators per channel in a common assembly box or one thermostat with separate control circuits. Occasionally, the device is connected directly to the electrical panel. When the power of such a combination exceeds 2000 W, you will have to install a separate circuit breaker. Therefore, in most cases, they simply use the outlet, paying attention to how many devices receive current through it.

The standard installation height is 0.8-0.9 m. But when using air sensors, either separately or in conjunction with a floor temperature meter, follow the instructions and do not violate the instructions given there regarding the height of the location. Floor indicators are most often placed 0.5-0.6 m from the wall where the thermal unit goes. It is recommended to place the sensor in mounting or corrugated tubes to ensure protection from destructive influences and to simplify replacement in the future. When a film floor is installed, the meter is placed in a special recess in the floor, sufficient to make it flush with the rest of the surface.

The order is:

• a connection box is installed (except for cases where overhead units are connected);
• a groove is made in the wall and floor;
• power supply wires stretch to the box;
• using a tester, check whether sufficient current is supplied to it;

• stretch the cable from the sensor inside the corrugated pipe and grooves to the box;
• connect parts of the wiring according to the chosen circuit;
• set the thermostat to the designated place;
• attach its outer panel and cover.

It is advisable to install the valve on the hot water supply at the same time as connecting the radiator itself. If the system is already assembled, you cannot do without dismantling the liner. Particularly great difficulties are created when steel pipes were used for connection. Here you can’t do without a tool capable of cutting metal and forming threads on it. The thermal head is installed without the use of tools.

All that is required is to align the marks on the housings and gently press. The head will be securely fixed in the socket. A positive result can be judged by the click of the latch. Anti-vandal type thermostats are more difficult to mount; you will need to take 0.2 cm hex keys. Having achieved the marks matching, press the thermal head and screw the side retaining bolt.

Remote sensors and regulators of the same type for the battery should be mounted on a section of the wall freed from all interfering objects. Recommended height is 120-160 cm from the floor. They start by attaching the mounting plate to the wall with dowels. Already on top of it, with a little pressure, the housing is snapped into place. To connect the capillary tubes, you need plastic clamps (they are almost always included in the delivery kit).

Thermal heads ensure adjustment of the regulators to the highest and lowest values. When these positions are reached, the impellers simply will not move further. The solution is very simple: use limiting pins on the back of the products. One of these pins is removed. When the design is debugged, it is simply inserted into the hole under the desired mark.

It is strictly unacceptable to use thermal regulators for a one-pipe system in two-pipe circuits and vice versa. When the heating line is connected to the radiator from the side, you will have to install a direct valve; bottom entry means that a corner device must be mounted. The arrow on the equipment shows where the coolant flow should be directed. If this parameter is observed, connections are allowed at both the input and output. When a bottom connection is used, the thermal head is adjusted to a slightly lower temperature than usual.

The set temperature depends on the characteristics of the room and its operation:

• +7 degrees – preventing freezing;
• +11 degrees – corridor;
• +16 degrees – bedroom;
• +20 degrees – the largest room in the house or hall;
• +24 degrees – sanitary unit;
• +28 degrees – the most intense mode; Not all regulators have this; sometimes there is a limit of 26 degrees.

Criterias of choice

A reliable thermostat can work for a very long time. But in order for the apartment to always be warm and cozy, you need to give up significant savings. This is exactly the case when saving money initially leads to the opposite result. Preference should be given to products from the concerns Overtrop (Germany) and Danfoss (Denmark). Both manufacturers produce products suitable for a wide variety of interiors.

Devices with a remote sensor, as already mentioned, measure temperature as quickly and accurately as possible. If there is no particular need for this, you can safely save. Especially when it is not possible to fix the mechanism on the wall. Split system maintenance is best provided by built-in regulators. Thermostats that serve heated floors are included in a separate category.

When you plan to use infrared equipment for heating, plug-in thermostats are the best choice. An extremely important point is the choice between mechanical and electronic options. The second type is more expensive and more complex, it depends on electricity, but it opens up more possibilities. In addition, electronic equipment is easier to install and allows you to set a larger temperature range. If you have at least a little experience and special parts, you can even assemble the regulator yourself.

If you already know the brand of the boiler that will be used for heating, then the thermostat and temperature sensor should be selected from the model range of the same manufacturer. Relying on compatibility, even if it seems to be confirmed by accompanying documentation, is not the most reliable way. The selection of a general house thermostat deserves special attention. As practice shows, in apartment buildings the total consumption of thermal resources and the provision of comfort directly depend on this device. Considering the increased complexity of the central heating circuit and the distribution from it to the entrances, it is worth consulting with specialists before making a choice.

A radiator thermostat and a thermostat installed on an apartment riser should not be used to completely cut off heat from the apartment. This will immediately lead to an increase in the general consumption of thermal energy, that is, it will create inconvenience for other consumers and unreasonably increase utility bills. The regulator for heating systems that receive heat from a gas boiler is equipped with a drive and a liquid element. Only on the initiative of the consumers themselves does this type of working fluid change to a gas or elastic type.

The choice of thermostat for an electric boiler also has its own subtleties. Of course, modern varieties of such equipment are equipped with a practical control unit that completely takes care of the problems that arise. But in many places they still use old technology, which regulates work much worse. The range within which the temperature is controlled is entirely determined by the specifics of the heating system. More precisely, the radiators and the boiler itself have the lowest and highest coolant temperature values ​​at which the pipes operate stably.

A wired plug-in unit is considered a better option than a wireless one due to its low cost and increased reliability. But in specific rooms it makes sense to install wireless devices. Of course, only where specific temperature control is generally needed. Devices with remote sensors must be purchased if the heating radiator is installed under a wide window sill. They are also recommended for cases where the internal thermal element is exposed to a draft that cannot be removed. The selection of a thermostat for heated floors deserves special attention. Consumers have a huge assortment at their disposal - almost all possible colors and geometric shapes have already been sold by manufacturers.

Thermostats that meet the established standards are suitable for all floors:

• film;
• water;
• traditional electric mats or spirals.

There is no need to purchase exactly the model from the same manufacturer under whose brand the heating circuit is produced. It is very important to additionally buy damping tape. It will suppress dimensional changes that occur under the influence of heat. When choosing a thermostat for a heated floor, we must not forget that digital technology can differ significantly. So, some devices have only a few control buttons, while others have a whole range of options for flexible control.

The simplest options are attractive due to their increased reliability and low price. But they do not allow us to detect what the real floor temperature is at a particular moment. It is not very practical or convenient to check it by touch every time. That’s why it’s better to buy products equipped with a display with a warm-up indication. In some situations, a thermostat equipped with two types of sensors turns out to be more economical.

It monitors the heating of not only water, but also air, and blocks heating as soon as the readings of any of this pair of devices reach a predetermined value. For radiator systems this is not very reasonable, but in the case of a heated floor, with its increased thermal inertia, the opposite is true. Infrared sensors not only correspond to the spirit of modern progress, they can be mounted quite far from the thermostat, but at the same time help to adjust the operation of all systems. It is these control elements that are best used in rooms and technical areas where significant air humidity is likely. Due to the saturation of the market for thermal regulators, you must always consult with sellers and take into account your financial capabilities.

You shouldn't be too happy if the regulator comes with a heated floor. In order to save money, manufacturers thus supply not the most advanced mechanisms with limited functionality. They are only suitable for small spaces. In all other cases you will have to think carefully. It is recommended that the power exceed the maximum planned load on the heated floor by 15%, then the control system will last a long time.

An overhead thermostat can coordinate the operation of a heated floor in a house with any wall material. You will definitely have to install a special box under it. Embedded devices require grooves to be formed to help hide the wires. You will also have to drill a channel designed to secure the device box. A built-in regulator will be of no use in a wooden house.

There are also options that connect to a DIN rail. Such thermostats must be installed in electrical distribution panels. The appearance and color of regulators for heated floors, as for conventional boilers, are extremely varied. Here you should be guided only by personal taste and the recommendations of designers for a specific interior. Devices equipped with a display are divided into two subgroups: with a built-in and with a dismantled control unit.

The second type differs in that after the control structure is separated from the thermal head, it remains operational in standard mode. It is these devices that allow you to adjust the temperature according to the time of day, using preset or specially specified programs. The ease of reducing the heating intensity at times when no one is in the house is a completely positive feature. Vandal-proof thermostats are recommended to be installed in homes where there are small children. This technique, protected not only from interference with the design, but also from accidental distortion of parameters, is also useful in public places and public institutions.

Having understood the basic requirements for a thermostat, you can find out which models are suitable for solving a particular problem. The Terneo Auraton PT32 GST model is recommended for updating old heating infrastructure.

In their reviews, consumers note that this device increases the efficiency of boilers and makes their use more comfortable. The manufacturer has equipped its device with a digital temperature sensor. The engineers managed to make setting the required mode extremely simple. This mechanism is best combined with electric boilers equipped with a bimetallic relay. Speaking about PT GST, it is worth noting that this device is compatible with any boilers that require the use of dry switching contacts; The device has a GSM unit and is controlled by text messages.

Auraton 2005 is approved by experts for reducing electrical current consumption in the system. The device can be connected either wired or remotely. Automation allows you to set precise operating modes 7 days in advance. A comfortable control panel with an LCD screen helps eliminate errors. In addition to 6 preset programs, there are 3 more user-defined ones. So this model can really be considered a worthy choice.

The thermostat model “Danfoss RA 2994” can be considered a good offer., perfectly compatible with the RA-G valve from the same manufacturer. This combination allows you to service single-pipe heating systems, designed for diameters from 15 to 25 mm. Temperature regulators made in Denmark have been familiar to domestic specialists since the 1970s. And all this time they showed themselves exclusively on the positive side. The designs of the Scandinavian company are compatible with any heating boilers, regardless of the type of fuel and power used in them.

If the house has a correctly calculated autonomous heat supply, then no adjustment will be required for the heating radiators, since a stable temperature regime will be ensured in all rooms. But in multi-apartment buildings, where residents often modify heating systems, regulators will not hurt. It would also be a good idea to install a communal heat meter in an apartment building, which will save residents money.

The need to adjust heat transfer

There are two reasons why heating radiators need to be adjusted:

1. Reducing home heating costs. True, in an apartment located in a multi-storey building, it is possible to reduce the amount of payments only if there is a common building heat meter. In a private household, if an automated boiler is installed, installation of regulators is unlikely to be required. The amount of savings will be significant.
2. There is a need to maintain the desired temperature in the premises. For example, in one room it may be 17 degrees Celsius, and in another – 25 degrees. To do this, you need to set the appropriate numbers on the thermal head or close the valve.

In this case, it does not matter how the heated coolant enters the radiators - centrally or autonomously. It also does not matter which heating unit is installed in the system. The fact is that the regulators on the batteries are not connected to the boilers - they function independently.

Adjusting heating radiators

To understand the question of how to regulate heating batteries with a regulator, first of all, you should find out the principle of their operation. By design, the radiator consists of a labyrinth of pipes and fins of various types, which provide increased heat transfer.

Hot liquid enters the device, passes through the labyrinth and thereby heats the metal, which gives off heat to the surrounding air. The fins on modern radiators are made of a special shape, which improves the convection of air flows, and the room is heated quickly.

In the case of active heating from the batteries, a heat flow is felt. This means that when you change the amount of coolant passing through the device, you can adjust the room heating temperature, albeit within certain limits.

This is what special fittings are designed for - thermostats and valves. But a heating regulator installed on a radiator in an apartment is not capable of increasing heat transfer; it can only reduce it.

The effectiveness of changing battery temperature depends on:

• on whether the heating devices have power reserves;
• from the correct selection and installation of regulators.

Of no small importance is the inertia of the entire heating system and the batteries themselves. For example, cast iron, which has a large mass, changes temperature slowly, while aluminum heats up quickly and cools down the same way. This means that there is no point in having cast iron radiators with temperature control, since it takes a long time to get results.

Ways to increase the heat transfer of batteries

The presence/absence of the opportunity to increase heat transfer depends on the calculation of the radiator power reserve. If the device is not able to produce more thermal energy, then no fittings will help.

You can try to change the situation in one of the following ways:

1. First of all, you should check whether the filters and pipes are clogged. Blockages form both in old buildings and in new buildings, as various construction debris enters the system. When cleaning does not produce results, drastic measures need to be taken.
2. Increase in coolant temperature. This can be done if there is an autonomous heating supply, but with centralized heating it is unlikely.
3. Changing the connection type. Not all battery connection methods are equally effective. For example, a reverse side connection reduces power by about a quarter. The location of installation of the device also affects the heat transfer.
4. Increasing the number of sections. If the location and method of connecting radiators are chosen correctly, and the room is also cold, this means that the thermal power of the devices is not enough. Then it is necessary to increase the number of sections.

If the heating system is equipped with batteries with temperature control, then they require a certain power reserve and this is their main drawback. As a result, heating installation costs increase, since each section costs money.

Comfort cannot be achieved if the room is cold or too hot, so adjusting the heat in radiators is a universal solution to this problem.

There are many devices on sale that are designed to change the volume of coolant passing through the radiator. Among them there are both inexpensive and high-cost products. They come with different adjustments: manual, electronic and automatic.

Ball Valves

Valves are cheap, but at the same time ineffective control devices. Ball valves are often installed at the entrance to the radiator, with the help of which they regulate the flow of water.

But this equipment also has another functionality - shut-off valves. Valves are used to completely shut off the flow of coolant into the system. For example, in the event of a leak in a heating device, ball valves located at the inlet and outlet of the radiator allow repairs to be made without stopping the heat supply and draining the liquid.

Heating radiators in the apartment cannot be adjusted using ball valves. They have only two positions - completely closed and open. An intermediate position only brings harm.

The fact is that inside such a faucet there is a ball with a hole, which in its normal position is not in danger, but in all other situations the solid particles present in the coolant grind it down and pieces break off from it. As a result, the tap will not be sealed and in the “closed” position, water will continue to flow into the battery, which can lead to big troubles if the device leaks.

If one of the property owners decides to control the radiators using ball valves, you must remember that they should be installed correctly.

This method is usually used in apartment buildings. If the wiring is single-pipe vertical, then the hot water pipe enters the room through the ceiling and a radiator is connected to it (read: “Correct adjustment of heating radiators in an apartment - comfort in the home and saving money”). The pipeline departs from the second entrance to the device and is directed through the floor to the room below.

In this case, it is necessary to install the taps correctly, since the installation of a bypass is mandatory. The bypass pipe is needed so that when the liquid flow to the radiator is closed, the coolant continues to circulate in the general house system.

In some situations, the tap is placed on the bypass to change the amount of water passing through it and thereby adjust the heat transfer of the battery. To ensure greater reliability of the heating system, at least three valves are installed: two will be shut-off valves on the radiator and function normally, and the third will become a regulating valve.

But here we must not forget what position the devices are in. Otherwise, you can completely block the riser and you will not be able to avoid the cold in the apartment, as well as unpleasant showdowns with neighbors and representatives of the management company.

Therefore, when deciding how to regulate heat in batteries, experts do not recommend using ball valves. There are other products on the market that are specifically designed to change the amount of water circulating through the radiator.

Needle valve

This device is usually installed in the heating system in front of the pressure gauge. The valve smoothly and effectively changes the flow of coolant, gradually blocking it. The design feature of this device is that the width of the passage in it is half as much.

For example, when installing inch pipes and the same cross-section of a needle valve, its capacity will be only ½ inch. As a result, each device built into the system reduces this parameter. Several products installed in series, for example in a single-pipe design, result in the latter devices being lukewarm or cold.

Since the passage is greatly narrowed, a needle device is not recommended to be installed when solving the problem of how to regulate the temperature of the battery, since its heat transfer is greatly reduced.

You can increase it as follows:

• removing the valve;
• doubling the number of sections;
• by installing a device that has twice as many couplings.

Control valves for radiators

To manually regulate the operation of heating devices, special valves are used. Such taps are sold with straight or angular connections. The procedure for regulating heating batteries using these devices manually is as follows.

When the valve is turned, the shut-off cone lowers or rises. In the closed position, the coolant flow is completely blocked. Moving up or down, the cone regulates to a greater or lesser extent the amount of circulating water.

Due to this operating principle, such valves are also called “mechanical temperature controllers”. They are installed on batteries with threads, and connected to pipes with fittings, most often of the crimp type.

The control valve used for heating devices has the following advantages:

• the device is reliable, it is not dangerous from blockages and fine abrasive particles present in the coolant - this applies exclusively to high-quality products in which the valve cone is made of metal and carefully processed;
• the product has an affordable price.

Control valves also have disadvantages - each time you use the device, its position has to be changed manually and for this reason it is quite problematic to maintain a stable temperature regime.

For those who are not satisfied with this procedure and are thinking about how to regulate the temperature of the radiator using another method, the use of automatic products that allow them to control the degree of heating of the radiators is more suitable.

Automatic adjustment option

There are several ways to regulate the temperature in batteries. But automatic adjustment of the room temperature has an undeniable advantage. The fact is that by placing the regulator knob in the required position once, the property owner gets rid of the need to use it for a long time.

Adjusting batteries using a thermostat

To ensure constant maintenance of the desired temperature in the room, thermostats for radiators are used. These devices have other names - thermostatic valve, thermostatic valve, etc. There are many names, but they all refer to one product.

The thermal valve and thermal valve are the lower part of the device, and the thermal head and thermoelement are the upper part. Most of these products operate without power sources. The exception is models equipped with a digital screen, in which batteries are placed in the thermostatic head. There is no need to change them often, since the current consumption is negligible.

The radiator thermostat consists of several components:

• thermostatic valve, which is called “housing”, “thermal valve”, “thermal valve”;
• thermostatic head or “thermostatic element”, “thermoelement”, “thermal head”.

The body (valve) is made of metal, usually bronze or brass. Externally, its design resembles a manual valve. Many manufacturers make the lower part
radiator thermostat unified. This means that different types of heads can be mounted on one housing, regardless of their manufacturer.

Thus, it is possible to install a thermoelement with different controls on the thermal valve - manual, mechanical or automatic, which is very convenient. If you want to change the adjustment method, there is no need to buy the entire device, you just need to install a different thermostatic element.

Automatic regulators differ in the principle of influencing the locking mechanism. In a manual device, its position is changed by turning the handle. As for automatic models, they usually have a siphon that puts pressure on
spring loaded mechanism. In electronic products, the workflow is controlled by a processor.

The bellows is the main element of the thermoelement (thermal head). It looks like a small sealed cylinder containing liquid or gas inside. Both of these substances have a common property - their volume depends on temperature. When heated, gas and liquid begin to significantly increase in volume and thereby stretch the cylinder.

The bellows, when pressed on the spring, blocks the flow of coolant. When the volume of the working medium decreases as it cools, the spring rises and thereby the fluid flow increases, and the radiator heats up again. Thanks to the use of such a device, depending on its calibration, the set temperature can be maintained with great accuracy - up to one degree.

Before using a radiator, anyone who decides to purchase a thermostat for it must decide what type of temperature control it should have:

• manual;
• auto;
• with built-in or remote sensor.

Models designed for one-pipe and two-pipe systems, with housings made of different metals, are also available.

Applications of three-way valves

One way to regulate heating radiators is to use a three-way valve. True, it is rarely used. Despite the fact that it is designed to solve other problems, such an application is possible.

Install a three-way valve at the junction of the bypass with the supply pipe going to the heating battery. To stabilize the temperature of the working environment, it must be equipped with a thermostatic head.

When the temperature near the head of the three-way valve becomes higher than the set parameter, the flow of liquid moving to the radiator is blocked - it is sent to the bypass. After the coolant cools down, the valve begins to operate in the opposite direction, and the battery heats up again. This connection method is usually implemented in single-pipe heat supply systems, with vertical wiring.

Summarizing

You can regulate heating radiators using several types of devices, but experts believe that the best solution is to use special control valves. Such products are manual taps and automated products - thermostats, and only in some cases can a three-way valve with a thermal head be used.

In high-rise apartments with centralized heating, it is better to give preference to control taps or a three-way valve. As for individual heating systems, the problem of how to reduce the temperature of the coolant in a heating radiator is solved using thermostats.

If the apartment owner still prefers automatic adjustment of radiators, then a filter should be installed before the thermostat - it will trap most of the various impurities.

In the countries of the post-Soviet space, up to 40% of energy resources are spent on the needs of heating and ventilation of buildings, this is several times more than in advanced European countries. The issue of energy saving is more pressing than ever, especially against the backdrop of the constant increase in energy costs. One of the devices that allows you to save thermal energy in the house is a battery thermostat, whose installation can reduce heat consumption by up to 20%. But to do this, it is necessary to correctly select the regulators for the heating system and install them, which will be discussed in this article.

Working principle of thermostatic valve

The first thermostats for radiators, designed to maintain a constant temperature in the room, were invented back in 1943 by DANFOSS, which also holds the lead in the market for the production and sale of such devices. For this reason, our article will be based on materials and recommendations from DANFOSS, whose many years of experience are beyond doubt.

Over the years since their invention, thermostats for radiators have changed and become as we know them. Structurally, they consist of two main elements: a valve and a thermal head, connected to each other by a locking mechanism. The purpose of the thermal head is to perceive the ambient temperature and, to regulate it, act on the actuator - the valve, which blocks the flow of coolant entering the heating device.

This control method is called quantitative, since the device affects the flow of coolant passing into the radiator. There is another method - qualitative, with its help the temperature of the water in the system changes. This is carried out by a temperature controller (mixing unit) installed in the boiler room or heating point.

To understand the principle of operation of the thermal head, it is proposed to study the diagram of the device shown in section:

Inside the element body there is a bellows filled with a heat-sensitive medium. It comes in two types:

• liquid;
• gas.

Liquid bellows are easier to manufacture, but they are inferior to gas bellows in terms of speed, so the latter have become very widespread. So, when the air temperature rises, the substance in a closed space expands, the bellows stretches and presses on the valve stem. This, in turn, moves down a special cone, which reduces the flow area of ​​the valve. As a result, coolant consumption decreases. When the surrounding air is cooled, everything happens in the reverse order, the amount of flowing water increases to a maximum, this is the principle of operation of the thermostat.

Depending on the type of heating system and the installation conditions of the device, valve-thermal head kits in various combinations can be used to control the flow of coolant. In single-pipe heating systems, it is recommended to install valves with increased flow capacity and low hydraulic resistance (DANFOSS product markings are RA-G, RA-KE, RA-KEW).

The same recommendation applies to two-pipe gravity systems, where the coolant circulates naturally, without forced stimulation. If the heating circuit is two-pipe with a circulation pump, then you should choose a valve with the ability to adjust the flow capacity (DANFOSS markings - RA-N, RA-K, RA-KW). This adjustment is quite simple and does not require a special tool.

When the issue of valve selection has been resolved, you need to decide on the type of thermal head. They are offered in the following versions:

1. With an internal thermoelement (as in the diagram presented above).
2. With remote temperature sensor.
3. With external regulator.
4. Electronic (programmable).
5. Anti-vandal.

A conventional thermostat for heating radiators with an internal sensor is accepted for installation if it is possible to position its axis horizontally so that the room air freely flows around the body of the device, as shown in the figure:

Attention! It is not allowed to install the thermostat on the battery in a vertical position; the heat flow rising from the supply pipe and valve body will affect the bellows, as a result of which the device will not work correctly.

If horizontal installation of the head is not possible, then it is better to purchase an external temperature sensor for it, complete with a capillary tube 2 m long. It is at this distance from the radiator that this device can be placed by attaching it to the wall:

In addition to vertical installation, there are other objective reasons for purchasing a remote sensor:

• heating radiators with temperature controllers are located behind thick curtains;
• in the immediate vicinity of the thermal head there are pipes with hot water or there is another heat source;
• the battery stands under a wide window sill;
• the internal thermoelement enters the draft zone.

In rooms with high demands on the interior, batteries are often hidden under decorative screens made of various materials. In such cases, a thermostat trapped under the casing registers the temperature of the hot air accumulating in the upper zone and can completely shut off the coolant. Moreover, access to the head control is completely blocked. In this situation, the choice should be made in favor of an external regulator combined with a sensor. Options for its placement are shown in the figure:

Electronic thermostats with a display also come in two types: with built-in and removable control unit. The latter differs in that the electronic unit is disconnected from the thermal head, after which it continues to function as usual. The purpose of such devices is to regulate the temperature in the room according to the time of day in accordance with the program. This allows heating power to be reduced during working hours, when no one is home and in other similar cases, which leads to additional energy savings.

When there are small children in the house who want to try everything with their own hands, it is better to install a vandal-proof thermostat with a casing that protects the device settings from unqualified intervention. This also applies to thermostats located in other public buildings: kindergartens, schools, hospitals, and so on.

How to install a thermostat on a battery

The first recommendation is not to place thermal heads on all heaters within sight. Here the rule is as follows: radiators whose total power is 50% or more of all those in the same room should be regulated. For example, when there are 2 heaters in a room, then 1 battery, whose power is greater, should be equipped with a thermostat.

Advice. If cast iron radiators are used as heating devices, then maintaining the microclimate using thermostatic valves will be ineffective. The fact is that the operation of cast iron batteries is very inertial; after cutting off the flow of coolant, they radiate heat for a long time and, conversely, accelerate for a long time. There is no point in installing valves; you will only waste your time and money.

It is recommended to install the first part of the device - the valve - on the inlet supply pipeline when connecting the radiator to the heating system. If it needs to be embedded into the assembled system, the supply line will have to be dismantled. This will cause some difficulties if the connection is made with steel pipes; you will need a tool for cutting pipes and tapping threads.

After the thermostat is installed on the heating battery, the thermal head is mounted without any tools. Simply align the marks on the housings and gently press to lock the head in the socket. The signal will be a click of the locking mechanism.

It is a little more difficult to install an anti-vandal thermostat; for this you will need a 2 mm hex key. Having aligned the required marks, as shown in the diagram, you need to press the thermal head and tighten the fixing bolt located on the side with a hexagon.

Installation of the remote sensor and regulator is carried out on a section of the wall free from interior parts and furniture, placing them at a height of 1.2-1.6 m from the floor, as shown in the diagram:

First, the mounting plate is attached to the wall with dowels, and then the housing is snapped onto it with a simple press. The capillary tube is secured to the wall with plastic clamps; as a rule, they come with the product.

In addition to the standard temperature control, the heads provide adjustment of the thermostat to maximum and minimum limits, beyond which turning the wheel will become impossible. For this purpose, there are limiting pins located at the rear of the product. You need to pull out one of them and, after debugging the system, insert it into the hole under the corresponding mark:

Conclusion

Selecting a thermostat is not a difficult task; it is important to understand what kind of heating system the valve is being purchased for and to know where it will be located. Programmable devices are definitely recommended as the most economical.