How to get rid of soil. Getting rid of groundwater in the basement

When the long-awaited spring comes, many begin to have problems with flooding of cellars and basements. This unpleasant situation occurs due to rising groundwater levels. The earth becomes like a sponge that absorbs water and holds it in itself. If the groundwater level rises above the foundation, then moisture seeps into the room through cracks.

The cause of basement flooding is the first aquifer. It is formed from nearby rivers, lakes, and reservoirs. Also, the groundwater level is affected by melted snow and precipitation in the form of rain. There are several ways to help cope with annual flooding. By choosing one of them, you will be able to make your basement dry.

Creation of a drainage system

Drainage is a drainage system consisting of trenches, pipes and a well. With its help, it is possible to prevent flooding of basements, as well as drain the land. The drainage system is made during the construction of the basement. A properly installed system will help you forget about water in the basement once and for all and protect the foundation from destruction.

How does the drainage system work?
The basis of the drainage is a large diameter pipe (at least 100 mm). It has holes all over its surface. Through them, groundwater seeps into the pipe and flows into the collector. In order for the system to work well, the following conditions must be created:

Dig a trench with a slope around the basement below the floor. This will ensure efficient water collection and drainage.
Be sure to use filter materials (geotextiles and crushed stone) that will protect the pipe from flooding.
Drainage to the central sewerage system, where a large volume of groundwater will accumulate.

What is necessary:

drainage pipe wrapped in geotextile;
fine, washed crushed stone;
geotextile fabric;
river sand.

Installation

Make a trench below floor level around the foundation and a deep well at a distance of 10-15 meters from the building. The trench must have a slope sufficient for water to drain.
Place a geotextile fabric in the dug trench. And then fill it with crushed stone (layer thickness 10 cm). This way you will create a primary layer that filters groundwater.
At the next stage, lay a drainage pipe (preferably two-layer in geotextile) on a layer of crushed stone. Make sure that the slope is maintained throughout the trench. Using a tee, lay the outlet pipe to the well.
Cover the laid pipe completely with crushed stone. Leave 20 cm to the top of the trench. Fold the free edges of the geotextile fabric over the crushed stone bedding. This will completely isolate the drainage from the ground. After this, fill the trench with sand.

As a result, you will have a reliable drainage system. Geotextiles and crushed stone act as a filter, preventing the perforated pipe from clogging. And sand will ensure the transport of moisture from the soil surface to the drainage channel.

Conclusion
Drainage channels installed around the basement will help eliminate the main cause of flooding - high groundwater levels. The result of drainage will be a dry basement. Unfortunately, this system has its own significant drawback. It is customary (according to technology) to install drainage channels outside the premises, so not all basements can be equipped in this way.

However, in exceptional cases, basement owners can build drainage channels indoors. The installation process is almost the same, with the exception of some moments that occur during the floor screed stage. After installing the internal drainage system, the basement will lose 30 cm of height.

Creation of an automatic water pumping system

Not all basement owners have the opportunity to create a slope with a water drainage system. Therefore, in such areas a different method is used. To dry the room, an automatic system for pumping out excess water is installed.

What does that require:

Create a recess (pit) in the basement. Dig a hole measuring 50x50x50 cm. Then reinforce it with concrete or brickwork - this must be done to prevent the destruction of the walls. Pour 10 cm thick gravel into the hole.
Purchase a special pump that automatically turns on when a certain level of water accumulates.

Installation
Place the pump in the dug pit, connect the hoses to it and take them away from the room. When the volume of groundwater increases, it will first accumulate in the hole. The pump will start working, reacting to the rising level, and pump out excess moisture. This will continue until the groundwater finally subsides.

Conclusion
A fairly simple system that is inexpensive. Quick to install and easy to configure. But this system has two significant drawbacks. First, the pump works properly until it exhausts its service life, and then it will have to be replaced. Second, a water pumping system will not eliminate the cause of flooding, but will only temporarily relieve the consequences.

Creating waterproofing in the basement

Waterproofing walls and floors helps provide a quality waterproof barrier. It consists of three layers: penetrating waterproofing, bitumen mastic and plaster. Apply layers above the flood level with a margin of height in case groundwater rises.

What does that require:

Buy materials: Hydrotex or Penetron, bitumen mastic, sand, waterproof cement, and metal mesh for plaster are used as penetrating waterproofing.
Gather the necessary tools: a hard brush and spatula for applying the compounds, an iron brush for grouting between brick seams or cracks, a mixer and a container for mixing the mortar.
Prepare the basement: pump out the water - for this it is convenient to use the “Malysh” pump with a bottom suction. After drying, clean the surface of the floor and walls from dirt. Brush seams, corners, and cracks.

Installation

Treat the concrete floor and walls with penetrating waterproofing. This composition is deeply absorbed and clogs macrocracks through which water penetrates into the basement.
Then coat the corners, seams, and cracks with bitumen mastic. Then apply the mastic in the same way to the remaining surface of the walls and floor. The layer thickness should be at least 2 cm.
Attach the metal grill to the wall. It is necessary to ensure the rigidity of the plaster layer. Prepare a cement mortar of medium viscosity. Using a spatula, apply a 3 cm thick layer of plaster.
Place a metal mesh on the floor and fill it with liquid cement mortar and allow time to dry. At this point, the process of creating basement waterproofing can be considered complete.

Conclusion
The waterproofing layer prevents groundwater from seeping through cracks. It also makes concrete stronger, extending the life of walls and floors. The waterproofing method is an excellent alternative to a drainage system, which cannot be built in all basements.

So, the above methods for dealing with basement flooding will help get rid of excess water. Each has its own installation features, advantages and disadvantages. You need to choose a method based on your specific goals and financial capabilities.

Video: how to make drainage in the basement with your own hands

After surviving a harsh winter and waiting for warm spring days, the flood began. The joy of many owners of private houses during snow melting is overshadowed by the presence of water in the cellar or basement. This problem is repeated in many regions of our country every spring; it can lead to unpleasant consequences for the health of residents, creating a risk of destruction of the foundation, basement and the house as a whole. Let us examine in detail the causes of water in the basement and ways to solve this problem.

Causes of water in the basement

If measures are not taken to protect the basement from groundwater during construction, then eliminating the consequences of flooding will become a more expensive solution.

The first aquifer is formed in the upper layers of the soil. Moisture from atmospheric precipitation and melted snow and ice cover and nearby bodies of water gets into it. In spring there is an abundance of moisture, the groundwater level above two meters deep is considered high.

The owners erect two main barriers to prevent water from entering the house:

waterproofing of the foundation, floor and walls of the basement, plinth, which protects the thickness of the concrete and brick layer from the gradual seepage of water through microcracks and pores of the material;
a drainage system under the foundation, around the basement or throughout the house that collects most of the moisture and carries it outside the interior area.

The most common causes of flooding are:

violations of the technology for arranging external waterproofing of a house;
clogging, silting of drainage pipes or the volume of wastewater exceeding the capacity of the system;
rupture of water supply or sewerage pipes;
excessive condensation due to poor basement ventilation.

Some thrifty owners build a building without drainage at all, believing that waterproofing will be enough. Often, after several years, water suddenly appears in a dry cellar - this moisture has made its way into the smallest damage to the hydrophobic protection. Calcium carbonate in concrete gradually dissolves, which leads to a loss of load-bearing capacity of the walls, mold and mildew grow. Lack of drainage also harms the garden - the root system of fruit trees is washed away, the soil becomes waterlogged.

You can determine the high level of groundwater on a site even before building a house using a geological examination, or you can use folk signs: a high level of water in a well in nearby areas and the presence of plants such as reeds, willow, alder, and horsetail.

What to do if groundwater appears in the basement

If the house has already been built and flooding is detected in the basement, then it is necessary to take urgent measures to pump out, timely remove incoming moisture and prevent further seepage.

The price of the simplest models of vibration pumps is from 1 to 1.5 thousand rubles

Methods for pumping water:

a vibration (submersible) pump is inexpensive and works effectively with small volumes of relatively clean water without large debris;
You can buy a drainage pump yourself or call an emergency team who will do the job professionally and quickly with powerful equipment.

Pumps are divided into submersible and external. The external pump is lowered into the water only with the lower part, and the submersible pump - completely.

Technology for self-removal of floods using a drainage pump:

Connect a flexible hose for further discharge outside the house.
Take a large plastic bucket, drill holes in it, wrap it with a piece of geotextile and place the pump in an improvised storage tank. If the water is high, then simply lower the entire system with a submersible pump into the water and place it on the floor. For an external pump, pour gravel into the reservoir to the required level so that the lower part is immersed and the upper part remains exposed to air. The pump uses a float to determine the water level and turns off after pumping.

The price of drainage pumps starts from 1.5 thousand rubles

To prevent re-flooding after a one-time pumping, if the water is still slowly rising, you can make a quick drainage, the so-called pit, and create an automatic system that will keep the basement dry until the groundwater level drops.

Sequencing:

To meet the next flooding season fully armed, you need to equip internal and external waterproofing and make a ring drainage.

To create high-quality internal waterproofing, you will need the following tools and materials:

composition for penetrating impregnation, bitumen mastic, cement, reinforcing mesh, sand;
a container for mixing concrete, a drill with a mixer attachment, a spatula and a brush.

Operating procedure:

For external waterproofing of an already built house, you will have to dig out the foundation, as far as possible, and coat it with bitumen mastic or wrap it with rolled waterproofing materials 30 cm above the surface level, and then fill the soil back and compact it. Additionally, it can be equipped with a drainage membrane with geotextile.

Drain - underground artificial watercourse (pipe, cavity) for collecting and draining soil and groundwater

Simultaneously with external waterproofing, it is advisable to make a ring trench drainage, which is placed 50 cm below the level of the foundation heel.

Construction stages:

Drainage will take the brunt of the flood, and high-quality waterproofing will protect against water seeping through the pores of concrete, against dampness and flooding of the basement. Then, even in the rainiest spring, the basement of your house will be dry.

Dacha plots and household plots, characterized by a low-lying location and high groundwater levels, can cause a lot of inconvenience to the owners. How to deal with groundwater and how to determine the level of its occurrence, as well as the nature of the damage resulting from the close occurrence of groundwater - all this will be the topic of this article.

Groundwater. Groundwater levels and the harm they cause

First you need to decide on the terminology. Groundwater is usually called free-flow water of a gravitational nature, located not deep from the surface of the earth on the first aquifer and being the water of the first aquifer.

Speaking about the groundwater level, it should be noted that the shallow depth of its occurrence contributes to its constant fluctuations depending on the season. Thus, a period of precipitation may be marked by a sharp increase in the groundwater level in the area, and heat and drought, accordingly, a decrease. This is due to natural sources of groundwater supply, among which are precipitation, water from melted snow, and nearby rivers and lakes.

The construction of objects of any nature, be it residential or commercial buildings, must necessarily be associated with measuring the groundwater level, since damage caused to the owners due to the fact that groundwater is close to the site can significantly increase the operating cost of the site. Firstly, they can contribute to soil erosion, as a result of which the foundation subsides, and then significant deformation of the building occurs and cracks appear. The first signs of deformation of residential buildings are the shedding of plaster, the appearance of glass cracks without any external influences, and the unreasonable jamming of doors and windows.

Gardeners whose plots are close to groundwater will also have a hard time: trees growing in such areas do not tolerate unwanted proximity, and their root system, reaching groundwater, is in a state of oxygen starvation, which causes premature death of trees.

How to determine the level of groundwater?

That is why it is important to have a rough idea of how to initially determine groundwater, in order to then take timely measures to combat it. It is recommended to determine the level of their occurrence in the off-season, in autumn or spring, when the amount of precipitation reaches its maximum. For these purposes, several methods have been developed, the slightly more common of which are recognized:

1. Geobotanical. The essence of the method is to determine the compliance of growing plants with the soil and hydrogeological features of the area. To do this, you need to use specialized tables that indicate plants common on soils with certain qualitative characteristics, as well as the main signs of soil waterlogging;

2. The level of groundwater can also be determined by paying attention to the water level in nearby wells or located directly on the site. To do this, it is necessary to find the highest position of water on the walls of the well, compare it with groundwater level indicators and take a measurement from the surface of the earth;

3. Another well-known method requires drilling a well in a garden plot, the depth of which is at least two meters. Having created a well, you need to monitor it for some time: if water appears in the well, this indicates a high level of groundwater, and if the bottom of the well remains dry after a while, you have no reason to fear, the groundwater is far away.

Decrease in groundwater level. Basic methods

If, after ascertaining the groundwater level, you have come to disappointing conclusions, then it’s time to think about reducing it. Reducing the groundwater level at a dacha is a necessary measure to prevent the above-mentioned undesirable consequences and can be carried out both at the stage of construction activities and in the midst of the operation of buildings and structures for various purposes. It is carried out as follows:

1. One of the most common ways to reduce groundwater levels in a garden plot, known since ancient times, is to build a pond. For these purposes, it is recommended to arrange it in the very center of the estate, after which you can safely enjoy the results of the work done: the pond not only effectively reduces the groundwater level, helps protect the basement, cellar and garden from flooding, but also has a lot of decorative advantages;

2. If the construction of residential buildings has already been completed, and water still continues to stagnate on the site, the situation will have to be corrected in a different way. The construction of a closed or open type drainage system is the only optimal way out of this situation.

Open and closed drainage systems. What to choose?

The open drainage system contributes to a slight decrease in the groundwater level (30-50 cm) and consists of ditches, the depth of which reaches 70 cm, filled with crushed stone, gravel, and coarse sand. In this case, the thickness of the drainage layer should be at least 10-15 cm;

A closed drainage system, from a constructive point of view, consists of trenches located with a slope towards drainage and water removal, filled with drainage components. For greater efficiency, a perforated pipe is placed at the bottom of such drainage. Experts recommend installing closed drainage around the perimeter of buildings or the site as a whole. Placement of drainage pipes should be done in an area where the passage of cars and other specialized equipment is excluded in order to avoid damage to the drainage network.

Artificial reduction of groundwater levels. Drainage or dewatering?

If at the construction stage there is a need to organize pits and trenches, it is necessary to take care in advance to prevent groundwater from entering them. This is also done in several ways:

1.Open drainage is a method aimed at pumping groundwater using pumps from pits or trenches, the lower part of which is equipped with sumps or so-called drainage pits. The essence of the method is that water, seeping through the bottom and slopes of the trench, is collected in sumps and pumped out through the operation of diaphragm pumps.

2. If installing an open drainage system is obviously an impractical solution, they often resort to artificially lowering the groundwater level or lowering the groundwater level at the dacha, which helps lower the groundwater below the bottom of the designed pit. Its essence lies in the pumping of groundwater through deep pumps, which is carried out from boreholes intended for dewatering, or mine wells, which are located in the immediate vicinity of the work being carried out. When using this method, the groundwater level decreases sharply, which leads to the natural dehydration of the soil necessary at this stage of construction. In the process of applying this technique, not only the integrity of the trench slopes is maintained, but also the weakening of the foundations of nearby structures is prevented.

For your information, we provide several methods of water reduction that are less common in household plots. The main ones:

1.Electro-osmosis method;

2. Wellpoint;

3. Vacuum.

Important! Intensive and one-time pumping of groundwater, regardless of the methodology used, requires careful analysis and implementation of environmental measures, as it can lead to disruption of the integrity and relationships of underground and surface water sources, which cause drying out of springs and subsidence of the earth's surface.

Hello!
In the spring we purchased a gardening plot. Although it was already melting with might and main, there was no water on the site, so they decided that the site was located in a good place. There were no large trees on the site, but this was because they were simply cut down, leaving large stumps: birch, spruce and aspen. The entire area is covered with young growth, the same birches, aspens, and several fir trees. There were also rowan trees and even one wild fruit-bearing apple tree. Therefore, we concluded that it was definitely not a swamp.
Since we wanted to quickly uproot everything, we hired an excavator. Before that, they cut down everything that could be used for firewood. The excavator operator suggested this option - he drives into the area, pulls out all the stumps, digs a large hole in the corner, shovels the stumps there, fills the hole, levels everything - voila, a flat area. He argued that he had already done this many times, everything was fine.
Well, that’s pretty much how it all turned out, but not everything. The guy turned out to be quick, he didn’t wait for our arrival, but did everything alone. According to him, when he began to dig a hole for the stumps, water rushed into it. He still heroically dug it up and shoveled the stumps there. During this time, the soil began to get wet, the excavator began to get stuck, and the man decided not to tempt fate any longer - he left, leaving everything as it was.
The parents went to the site and were completely shocked by what they saw - everything was dug up, in the part far from the road there was a huge pile of clay, next to it there was a huge puddle, as they say, over the edge. The excavator operator agreed to come again and level the pile of clay; he did it, but not completely. In addition, getting back through the ditch from the road, he decided to “clean it up” and dug another hole in the place of the ditch. How it looks now - in photographs.
What we have now. The plot is 25 by 40 meters, a narrow part from the road. From the road south-southwest. Near the road there is a section about half a meter below the road, then the section gradually decreases towards the far edge. We didn’t measure it exactly, but somewhere around half a meter, or a little more. The neighbors to the left and right have their own plots, their plots are half a meter higher. The section next to us seems to have a gradual rise. So it turns out that our site is located in a local lowland, everything that surrounds it is higher and higher. In general, the terrain in gardening is not completely flat, for example, a few areas away from ours the soil level is noticeably lower, but it is quite dry there.
The ditch from the road is now wide and filled with water almost to the brim; there is no outflow from it towards the neighbors. There are no other ditches around the site. The fertile layer (what is left of it after the tractor) is about 20 cm, then there is yellow clay with rare small stones. Now, next to the pile of clay left after digging a hole for stumps, there is a huge puddle, I don’t know how deep it is, and I don’t know if the ill-fated hole is in its place.
What you want to get as a result: a leveled area, possibly with a slope, on which there will never be long-term puddles. It is planned to build a house for 4 people on the site. At the same time, there must be a fertile layer sufficient for a vegetable garden (parents cannot imagine a plot without a vegetable garden)
The hole with stumps is especially troubling. After all, in essence, the result is a large cavity filled with a loose structure, without drains. It will never be dry there. Maybe it makes sense to take out the stumps from it, fill the hole with clay, and then top it with fertile soil?
And if all the neighbors raised their plots, it turns out that we also have no choice but to raise ours?
Sorry for the long presentation, I just want to get valuable advice on how to improve the situation.

Many summer residents and owners of private houses have encountered the problem of high groundwater. The water level is subject to seasonal fluctuations and can not only negatively affect the crops grown, but also leads to a significant increase in construction costs. In this article we will tell you how to deal with groundwater in your area.

Groundwater is water that has a gravitational nature and is located directly at the surface. The groundwater level is usually called the first horizon.

When considering this concept, it is necessary to indicate seasonal changes in level. For example, in the spring, when the snow melts, groundwater rises and can even flood the area. In summer, during the dry season, the water goes several meters down.

This constantly changing water poses a serious problem for all private home owners. High levels of moisture can harm country buildings. What can we say about the proper functioning of wells, water wells and treatment systems.

To determine the level of groundwater as accurately as possible, it is necessary to carry out expensive geodetic examinations. However, most dacha owners neglect such examinations, which can subsequently lead to certain problems with flooding of the site.

If groundwater is located close to the surface, subsequent operation of the site will be difficult. Additional drainage will be necessary to allow construction or the successful cultivation of various crops.

It should be taken into account that the waters lie in layers, and the minimum level is observed in lowlands and in areas with an inclination.

Types of groundwater

Depending on the level of groundwater, they are usually divided into three types:

The first type is artesian water, which is as deep as possible and does not cause any problems to land owners. This water is used for drinking purposes and can only be obtained by drilling deep wells.
Gravity waters are located close to the surface, but at the same time they have a stable level that does not depend on drought or heavy rainfall. Such unpressurized water can affect underground utilities or the foundation of a home.
In the immediate vicinity of the surface there is the so-called perched water. As a rule, these waters are located at a depth of no more than three meters from the surface of the earth. The water flow is affected by the weather and the current amount of precipitation. They have a negative impact on the construction of structures and crops grown.

Groundwater influence

Many homeowners initially downplay the possible harm from high groundwater levels. In reality, problems arise with the waterproofing of the foundation, soils are washed out, cracks appear, and it is often impossible to cultivate crops on the site. Coarse sand and clay shales are susceptible to this influence.

The first sign of the negative impact of groundwater on a structure is the jamming of doors, and characteristic crumbling of plaster appears. The house begins to settle, which is evidence of a change in the soil. In the spring season, a high groundwater level can be determined by the large amount of moisture that slowly goes underground.

We determine the level according to folk signs

Conducting geodetic surveys during the first site inspection is often impractical. The level can be determined by a number of proven folk signs. So, for example, you need to pay attention to the plants on the site. If groundwater is located directly near the surface, then moisture-loving plants will grow well on the site. Such plants include horsetail, cattail, sedge and nettle.

If you can see reeds or reeds in areas, this indicates that the level of occurrence is two to three meters. In the future, it will be necessary to carry out expensive work to reduce the influence of groundwater, and this leads to an increase in the cost of operating the site.

Ways to combat high groundwater levels

Today, there are various ways to combat high groundwater. Soil drainage is most widely used, which allows the area to dry out. Depending on its type, drainage can be divided into open and closed.

It is necessary to dig drainage channels in the problem area. Along the perimeter they are made about 30-40 centimeters deep, and between the beds shallow drainage ditches are made with a maximum depth of 15 centimeters. At the lowest point of the site, a drainage hole is made, the depth of which can reach two meters.

It must be said that such drainage is more suitable for a summer cottage where there are no permanent buildings with a deep foundation.

The disadvantages of such an open drainage system include a reduction in the usable area of the site and a significant complication of caring for grown vegetables. At the same time, it must be said that such open drainage, due to its simplicity, is most widespread today.

To remove moisture from a site with permanent residential buildings, complex closed systems are used. In this case, it is recommended to use the natural slope of the site, which will effectively remove moisture and solve the problem of high groundwater levels.

The arrangement of closed drainage systems is carried out even before construction begins on the site. The work is carried out in the spring, when the water is at its highest. The construction of drainage ditches begins from the lowest point of the site. The depth of such drainage ditches depends to a large extent on the depth of the drainage pit being made. When arranging such closed channels, ready-made plastic pipes are used, which are closed with a grill on one side.

The use of such closed drainage does not lead to a change in the area of the site. However, the disadvantage of such a system is rapid siltation, which requires appropriate maintenance of plastic pipes. Siltation of the system can be reduced by high-quality waterproofing of pipes around the perimeter.

Such a closed drainage system can be equipped with various materials:

Pouring concrete and making various gutters from construction waste.
Use of asbestos cement pipes.
Plastic drainage pipes.

The groundwater level can be reduced to 5-6 meters by using a wellpoint filter unit. The basis of such an installation are special pipes with wellpoints installed in them. The pipes are connected to each other through a vacuum manifold, which is located on the surface of the earth, and the water is pumped out by internal pumps.

Even more complex systems can also be used, the basis of which are injection pumps. Such systems are capable of lowering the groundwater level by 20 meters. At the same time, it is necessary to note their rather high cost, which limits the spread of such complex systems.

Costs of solving the groundwater problem

You must understand that there are no areas unsuitable for farming and construction. The only question is how much it will cost to solve the problem with high groundwater levels. Often the problem can be solved by choosing lightweight residential buildings that do not require the construction of a full-fledged deep foundation.

Performing open and closed drainage can cost you about several thousand dollars. Whereas automated wellpoints and injection pumps can cost between $5,000 and $10,000. Such equipment is used when it is necessary to build a private residential building on the site.

The cost of geological exploration, which will determine the depth of groundwater, is also high. On average, specialized firms charge from 300 to 500 US dollars per point when performing this work.

If you choose a summer cottage for yourself, then it makes no sense to conduct such geological exploration. But if you plan to build a full-size private house on the site, then conducting such studies and determining the level of groundwater will allow you to avoid significant costs in the future when solving existing problems.