DIY circular saw. How to make a circular saw with your own hands

Circular saw shaft and bearing assembly

Let's look at the picture, which shows a cross-section of the shaft assembly

Shaft (1)
bearing housing (2)
bearings (3)
internal saw blade clamping sleeve (4)
external saw blade clamping sleeve (5)
clamping nut (6)
driven shaft pulley (7)
clamping nut, lock washer, key (8)

Sharpened from steel 45. The manufacture of the shaft can only be entrusted to highly qualified specialists, where a prerequisite is strict adherence to the technical requirements for the seating surfaces of the shafts and housings according to. On the saw blade mounting side, the following are mounted on the same diameter: a bearing; clamping inner sleeve; saw blade; clamping outer sleeve, so take this into account when you add tolerances and fits to the working drawings.

BEARING CASE

It is sharpened from steel 20. M6 threads are cut into the four mounting holes. Before pressing the bearings, fill the housing with Li-tol-24 lubricant.

BEARINGS

1204 ball radial double row spherical. They have two rows of balls. The inner surface has a curved shape. Covers can be provided in the bearing housing to protect them from dust and wood chips. But this solution, in general, will significantly complicate the design and increase its overall dimensions, therefore, we will not use it.

INNER CLAMPING BUSH

Made from steel 45

EXTERNAL CLAMPING BUSH

Made from steel 45

CLAMP NUT

CLAMP NUT

The M16 round spline nut in accordance with GOST 11871-88 clamps the driven pulley.

LOCK WASHER

Multi-claw (version 2), serves to fix the nut relative to the shaft and does not allow it to unscrew during rotation.

KEY

Keyed connection with parallel keys, tolerances and fits

A circular saw is an important and necessary tool for many people, allowing them to independently do numerous types of work around the house. It is quite expensive, so many people are thinking about making it on their own. To do this, you need to prepare a workbench or table of the optimal size to replace this tool, and you also need to have the ability to work with metal. During the process, you should be careful and careful so as not to harm yourself, and also to get the perfect result of the work.

Do-it-yourself circular is made using the following components:

• rectangular profile pipe;
• corners formed from steel;
• engine.

How to make a hand saw from a grinder?

A homemade circular saw made from a circular saw with your own hands is considered quite popular. A grinder is most often used for this work. To do this, only some changes are made to the finished tool, which is equipped with a special sliding stop, and an axial handle is also installed.

All work on independently creating a circular saw from a grinder consists of the following steps:

• A sliding stop is created on the tool, represented by two small corners made of metal. They are installed on both sides of the main working body of the tool, represented by a disk with different teeth, used instead of a standard abrasive wheel. In this case, a gap of 4 mm is left on each side.
• To prevent the installed corners from clinging to the part being processed when using the finished saw, they must be slightly rounded from below. In front and behind they are connected by special transverse links, for which standard fasteners are used - bolts and nuts.
• A special clamp made of a tape formed from metal is attached to the grinder itself. In this case, its screw tie should be at the bottom of the tool. A strip of tin, previously folded in half, is fixed to this clamp, and it can be replaced with galvanized steel. This element must have a special hole designed to fix the rear bolt of the sliding stop.
• Identical gaps are created between the stop of the future circular saw and its working body.
• In the gear housing, which is an important element of the angle grinder, 2 to 4 threaded holes are created. They are designed to use small bolts. For this work, the gearbox is initially disassembled in order to determine exactly where holes can be created in its body with a drill. It is with their help that the axial handle is fixed, which can be purchased ready-made or made on your own.
• If you plan to make the axial handle yourself, then a metal tube is used for this, and a metal rod with an unusual curved shape can also be used. In the created handle, as well as in the gearbox housing, holes for fastening are formed, after which the fixation itself is realized.
• Next, an adjustment rod is created, for which a small section of a steel rod is usually used, and its thickness is usually 5 mm. One end of this segment is bent, resulting in a loop. A hole is created for the front stop bolt. Washers are selected on the front part of the stop, which will allow you to obtain a uniform and optimal gap width. On the other side of the rod, a thread is formed that fits into a hole on the saw handle. To do this, a nut is screwed onto this hole in advance, and as soon as the assembly is completed, the second nut is also screwed on. With the help of these nuts, which are easily tightened or loosened, the optimal and desired cutting depth is ensured.

Thus, the process of creating a manual circular plate is considered quite simple. There is no need to use expensive tools and materials, and all work can be easily done on your own.

How to make a tabletop circulation cooker?

You can even make a table for a circular table with your own hands with drawings that are formed in advance and are also high-quality and correct. With their help, you can obtain a design that is of high quality, safe to use and efficient.

A full-fledged circular saw, formed on your own, is represented by a serious, complex and unusual design, which is created only with preliminary consideration of all its elements, study of drawings and preparation of materials and tools.

It is important to decide whether the circular saw will be stationary or tabletop, and the choice depends on how often the tool will be used, as well as the scale of work expected to be carried out with its help.

Construction of a standard circular saw

“Real” stationary circular saw

A do-it-yourself circular table, the drawings of which are freely available, can be created easily and quickly if you know its design well. If all components are separately formed and prepared, the result is that they simply fit together securely and tightly, ensuring an optimal design.

The main elements of this equipment include:

• Table. It is usually covered with a sheet made of galvanized steel or tin. It is not allowed to use plastic or wood for these purposes, since these materials will not be able to withstand the significant impact of other materials and will therefore wear through, resulting in deformations, bends and holes.
• Cross connections. They are created for a table, and usually for these purposes a steel corner is used, the thickness of which is approximately 7 cm. These connections are equipped with a shelf attached from the outside in a horizontal position. In this case, the ease of forming the side limiter is ensured.
• Working body of a circular saw. It is represented by a toothed disk that protrudes beyond the table, as this ensures a good sawing process for various elements.
• The motor of the equipment must be powerful enough. Its choice depends on the diameter of the saw. If you plan to work with lumber whose thickness exceeds 15 cm, then a very powerful motor is selected, so the process of creating a circular saw will be quite complicated, since it is difficult to find this element in the public domain.
• Side support. It is made adjustable, and to create it, an even piece of steel angle is used, the thickness of which is approximately 7 cm. This stop should be approximately 35 cm longer than the length of the table. One vertical shelf on each side is cut off, so it is equal to the length of the table . The tails, which are flat, curve downwards. Holes for threading are formed in their lower shelves. The stop is attached to the table with bolts, and it is aligned exactly according to the template.
• Shaft. It is an important piece of equipment, and it is advisable to purchase it ready-made so that it has high quality and reliability. Usually the finished element has a special seat intended for the future saw blade.
• Bearings. They may be different, but the best choice is considered to be self-aligning elements that are ball-shaped. They are equipped with a double row of special balls. The inside of the holder is curvilinear in cross-section. If you use cheap and low-quality bearings in a homemade circular saw, they will not last too long. The journals are equipped with covers that prevent sawdust from getting into the bearings.
• Saw transfer. Usually a V-belt design is chosen, since if you choose a gear design, it is considered quite dangerous for amateur use. This is due to the fact that if lumber is used that has previously been used for other purposes, then it may contain a nail or other fastening element, which, if it gets on the transmission, can cause the engine disk to simply fly apart.
• Gear ratio. It is selected depending on the engine parameters, namely its speed and the disk rotation speed.
• Engine. It is best to choose an asynchronous motor, which is single-phase. Typically, standard washing machines are equipped with such elements. They are ideal for a homemade circular saw. It is not advisable to use commutator motors, which are usually installed in various electrical appliances, since they produce extremely high speeds and also cannot operate for too long, which is considered important for a circular machine.
• A three-phase motor is often used, but it is supplemented by a starting and running capacitor, which are equipped with fittings. They have a significant cost, and they must be either oil-paper or just paper.
• An engine starting circuit that can be used for a triangle or a star, and it should not require additional modification.

Thus, the process of creating a circular saw on your own is considered quite complex, but if you know what basic elements the equipment consists of, and also choose high-quality elements that connect reliably and safely with each other, then the work will be done correctly on your own.

If you read this article on the blog, be careful when experimenting and working with sharp instruments. Write reviews and share tips on working with saws and circular saws that you have made yourself.

It’s hard to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

• base;
• sawing table;
• parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel stop.

So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.

In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts to press the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

There are various designs of parallel stops depending on the methods of attaching it to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.

Preparing for work

Before you begin, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.

The following tools will be used for work:

1. Circular saw or you can use.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Grinder (Angle grinder).
4. Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

During the work you will also need the following materials:

1. Plywood.
2. Solid pine.
3. Steel tube with an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
4. Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
5. Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
6. Self-tapping screws.
7. Wood glue.

Design of a circular saw stop

The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

• The base of the transverse part;

1. Longitudinal part

, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part;

1. Clamp

• Eccentric handle

Making a circular saw

Preparation of blanks

A couple of points to note:

• flat longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

We drill a 22 mm hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this by drilling, but you can simply hammer it with a nail.

The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage made of (or, as an option, you can whip up a false table), which is not too bad to be deformed or damaged. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.

As a result, we get a smooth cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.

We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Transverse part of the guide

Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

• The base of the transverse part;
• Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
• Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
• End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.

Upper transverse clamping bar

Both clamping bars - upper and lower - have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.

The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.

With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.

Assembling the entire transverse part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

We also additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to maintain a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Installing the guide

It's time to attach our entire structure to the circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.

Video

Video on which this material was made.

The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if major renovations or construction are underway. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular saw yourself, using materials that are available in the household.

Design - main components, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

• adapting existing hand tools using the motor and circular saw for new capabilities;
• improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
• assembly of individual parts, manufactured mainly in-house.

A stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, a motor and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table is used for fastening woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with a high-power engine. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it is necessary to take into account that the tabletop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

For a homemade circular machine, a washing machine motor is quite suitable. Portable tools are less suitable: their commutator motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, and are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if the household does not have 380 V, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work on 220 V.

The most important component is the shaft. Use a ready-made one, if available, or machine it from round metal. The work on the lathe is performed in one setup, then the assembly with the working parts is checked for centering. Even minimal runout is unacceptable, otherwise during work it will become stronger, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planing knives.

Main parameters - calculation of power, speed, gear

The characteristics of the circular saw, the engine and the maximum thickness of lumber that can be cut are interconnected. The maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated on the purchased circular disk. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The engine power affects the maximum permissible saw tooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that to cut materials 100 mm thick, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material jams, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically eliminated. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum permissible speed of the circular saw. We calculate the required pulley diameters. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the circular shaft to increase the number of revolutions.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the engine revolutions as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

To work with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan it, and select a quarter. A fairly powerful electric motor and a rigid table are required. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm; you can plan boards 200 mm wide. A three-phase motor of 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. To connect to 220 V, capacitors are required.

1 – machine frame; 2 – panel; 3 – starter; 4 – device for height adjustment; 5.7 – work table of two halves; 6 – base; 8 – engine; 9 – platform; 10 – M10 studs; 11 – circular disk; 12 – shaft; 13 – stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 – driven pulley; 15 – belt; 16 – drive pulley; 17 – switch.

The work table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is not sufficient for comfortable work; the circular saw will have to be installed on an additional platform; it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the remaining sizes to fit them, but the design features remain unchanged.

First we make the bed frame from steel corners 25x25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another similar lower frame. For a frame with a higher height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has grooves for the engine platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. By tightening the studs, we tighten the belts, then we lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45°. A total of eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach cross members to the outer posts. We drill holes in the middle of each of them and weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to regulate the lift.

Their ends rest against racks welded to frames assembled from 75x50 mm corners. We weld studs into them on the side opposite the grooves for the adjustment mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the frames with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:

• loosen the nuts on the racks;
• we turn the screw, which presses on the stop, raising or lowering the table;
• tighten the stud nuts;
• We perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing an adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but from one piece, you will only need four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one

It’s easy to make a stationary one from a hand-held circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. A convenient material is Finnish plywood, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces glide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and easy to process. You can use ordinary 20 mm plywood, but you just need to paint it, or better yet, cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

You need to understand that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a large diameter disk so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient to ensure that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that on a wide table you can additionally strengthen an electric plane and a jigsaw, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make additional accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, and process the edges. Using the sole, we apply a hand-held circular saw to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for the circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a milling cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will allow you to bring the cutting depth closer to that indicated in the circular saw’s passport.

From the boards we make a frame (tsars), which we install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue them to the tabletop, securing them with clamps. We screw self-tapping screws into the boards across the table. We countersink the holes for them from above so that the heads of the screws are hidden. We attach the legs to the frames of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a limit bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install an outlet connected to the network on the drawer. We install a switch in the gap in the wire going to the saw.

Some aspects of the execution of homemade devices

No matter how well a circular machine is made, individual errors can lead to its performance being limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. Installing conventional ones is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a homemade device with permanent use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls and are adjusted by tightening the clamping nut. Be sure to install a cover to protect against dust and chips.

On the working surface we apply a scale in centimeter increments. This will make woodworking much easier when determining the width of the cut. Many people neglect to install a protective shield over the disk, but in vain - treatment for chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with various materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. A homemade design, as a rule, does not have the ability to regulate engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of different diameters. They are installed on the motor shaft. If you decide to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on a sawing machine, without having 380 V. They will need capacitors designed for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V of paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of the capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 µF for the working capacitor Av. We take the capacity of the starting joint twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. Startup is simple: turn on SQ, press SB for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.

Many summer residents and owners of private houses were faced with the need to process and saw boards, plywood and other lumber. For such work you will need a circular saw, which will not be difficult to do using available tools. Such homemade equipment will not be inferior to purchased equipment in functionality and quality of execution, allowing you to save several tens of thousands of rubles on the purchase of ready-made units.

Description of equipment

DIY circular saws can be stationary or portable. The design of the simplest circular saw will include a metal or wooden supporting frame, inside of which are mounted an electric motor, an electricity supply control unit, a table top and the working saw itself, which is mounted on the circular saw shaft or installed through gears and a trunnion mechanism. The saw is located in a slot in the tabletop, which makes it easy to cut lumber, performing high-quality wood processing.

The table top can be made from lumber or you can use ready-made metal blanks for this. Smooth easel tables are made from wood, The top of such a tabletop will need to be covered with a durable metal sheet. Otherwise, without metal protection, the wood will begin to wear out quickly, and the equipment will last several years during active use, after which complex and expensive repairs will be required.

First of all, you need to decide on the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you need to cut boards or firewood for the winter, then a simple installation of a sturdy table with a slot for a disk will be sufficient.

Some models imply the presence of an additional shaft to which knives, a jointer and a plane are attached. Such universal machines are equipped with powerful electric motors, which allows you to perform a wide range of wood processing work. When manufacturing a multifunctional machine, it is necessary to be guided by high-quality diagrams and drawings that will allow you to create universal and reliable equipment.

If you need to perform various types of carpentry work, then set up a coordinate table with guides. The existing stops and guides can be fixed at different angles, which allows not only to ensure safe operation of the machine, but also to perform high-quality wood processing, easily changing blades to saws of different diameters.

Advantages of homemade equipment

Homemade circulars are very popular due to their ease of manufacture, durability and reliability. Today, many summer residents use homemade units rather than buying expensive equipment in specialized stores.

The main advantages of this technique include the following:

• The versatility of the tool.
• Ease of manufacture.
• Possibility of significant savings.
• Reliability and durability of equipment.

The designs of stationary and mobile circular saws available on the Internet and in thematic printed publications make it possible to produce equipment for processing both thin workpieces and thick lumber. You can choose the simplest options that do an excellent job of processing lining, thin slats and plywood.

Characteristics and power

The functionality of using the equipment will depend on the correct choice of parameters, including speed indicators and drive power. The power rating is affected by the maximum permissible diameter of the toothed saw. It is believed that to process lumber with a thickness of about 10 millimeters, an electric motor with a power of 1 kW will be required. Based on the thickness of the processed and sawn timber, you should select the power of the electric motor.

Transmission from the drive in a self-made circular machine is best done using a V-belt. This allows you to ensure the necessary safety of using the equipment. When foreign objects get under the saw, the V-belt drive will slip on the pulleys, which eliminates injuries and jamming of the working disk.

Making a circular saw

Before proceeding directly to the manufacture of a circular machine, it is necessary to think through its structure and design, and ideally, select a drawing diagram according to which all work will be carried out in the future. When planning the manufacture of the frame, it is necessary to remember that such a design must be stable and reliable. For industrial powerful saws, the base is made of reinforced welded metal structure. For household models, you can use wooden blocks with plywood for the frame or weld a base from a metal corner.

The choice of electric motor used will depend on what kind of work and what kind of wood is planned to be processed on the machine. The drive can operate from a single-phase electrical network, or powerful industrial motors are used that operate from a three-phase electrical network.

You can make a powerful and easy-to-use circular saw from a washing machine motor. This won't be too difficult. Such motors are compact in size, operate on a single-phase network with a voltage of 220 volts, are reliable and are capable of operating at high speeds.

One of the most important components of a power saw is the shaft on which the working saw is mounted. You can use a ready-made shaft from similar equipment or make it using a milling cutter from round timber. Turn the shaft on a lathe, checking for perfectly accurate centering. Even minimal shaft runout is not allowed, since in the future it will be impossible and unsafe to work on such an incorrectly centered circular machine. Seats for pulleys and a circular saw should be made on the shaft.

The saw blade should rise above the surface of the worktop by a maximum of one third of its diameter. Otherwise, with a higher saw height, it will be difficult to process wood, and working on such a machine will simply become dangerous. If it is necessary to work with timber, the diameter of the saw blade will be approximately 350 millimeters. To process boards, you should choose small discs with a diameter of 250-300 millimeters. The quality of the saw blades used must be given due attention, since in the future the mini-circular saw will bear a significant load, low-quality blades will quickly become dull and require replacement.

Materials and tools

Making a circular saw with your own hands is not particularly difficult. For this work you will need the following materials and tools:

In each case, the design of the circular machine will be different, so it is necessary to select certain components, which will allow us to produce functional and reliable equipment. When using lumber to make a base and desktop, the wood will need to be coated with impregnations that protect the material from rotting and moisture.

Step by step assembly

You can make a stationary circular saw with your own hands from a grinder and a hand cutter without making any changes to the design of the working tool. The base is made of lumber, which significantly simplifies production, eliminating the need to use complex welding equipment. Step-by-step instruction:

This option for making a circular saw will be an excellent choice if you need a tool for cutting boards up to 3 centimeters thick. If you need to make a powerful and multifunctional device for your home, then use electric motors with a power of 5 kW or more, which allow you to process and saw boards 5-8 centimeters thick.

Making a homemade circular saw is not particularly difficult. You can use grinders or hand saws, which are mounted inside the wooden base of the machine.

Some craftsmen make more complex tools that involve the use of powerful electric motors, V-belt drives and larger diameter saw blades. If you have any difficulties, you can find thematic videos online that tell you how to make a circular saw with your own hands.