Glider made of plywood do-it-yourself drawings. White-wing gliders, ceiling tile airplane
In our age of computers, the Internet, home robots and mobile gadgets, traditional modeling is not as popular as it was 20-30 years ago. But hardly anything can compare with the feeling when the model assembled with your hands from improvised materials successfully floats / rides / flies. In this article, we will consider the manufacture of a simple paper glider.
Such a glider is made only of improvised materials and it takes no more than an hour to produce it (see the figure below). The hardest thing is adjustment. But if everything is done according to our recommendations, the model will fly well. The increase in the size of the wing in terms of span and chord will not affect the strength at all. Therefore, the size of the model can safely be increased by one and a half, even twice. She has one more feature that characterizes her aerodynamic qualities. Pay attention to the wing profile. Its unusually large concavity increases lift. That is why, with a given size and weight of about 60 g, its flight performance is two times better than the flight performance of a sports model of the same class. A glider launched with a 30-40 m long racer will last longer than a hundred seconds in flight.
Glider model - collapsible. It consists of three parts: wing, stabilizer and fuselage. So it is more convenient to store and transport it in a paper or plastic bag.
Now get acquainted with the manufacturing technology. Put the sheets of Whatman on the table. Draw on it the life-size contours of the stabilizer 1 and wing 5 according to the dimensions indicated in the figure. Remember to give allowances to item 1 folds. Then cut the workpieces with sharp scissors. Make sure that they do not accidentally wrinkle. To give the wing the necessary curvature, the workpieces should be pulled with force over the edge of the table. It is done like this. Lay the workpiece on the table so that the leading edge is parallel to its edge. With your left hand, gently press it against the tabletop, and with your right hand pull it down, causing the paper to bend against the edge. Repeat this operation several times, gradually increasing the bending angle. Then, with the outside of the tip of the scissors, easily push the fold lines on the stabilizer and wing blanks. The wing and stabilizer are ready.
Next, cut two paper blanks for ribs 6 and one for ribs 7. Give them a shape as shown in the figure. Lubricate them with clerical glue or PVA glue and glue to the wing. The gluing of the parts will be more durable if the gluing points along the entire perimeter are also pinned with pins. We do not recommend permanently gluing ribs 6 if the central part of the wing is skewed. When gluing rib 7, pay attention to the lower plane of the wing - it should be perfectly flat. To prevent warping of the workpieces, stick the pins after gluing only from above. After gluing the ribs, immediately lay the wing with the bottom surface on the table. Wing tips should be made without bending the paper. Otherwise, they will not turn out to be durable, and then it will be necessary to further strengthen them with the help of paper gaskets. The stabilizer 1 is assembled from two blanks, having previously bent the edge of one of them, as shown in the figure. Glue the front edge of the bent edge and press down with a small load.
The fuselage is made of one wooden battens with a cross section of 8X8 mm square or round. The ends should be removed with a sharp knife on the cone. Ready fuselage must be cleaned with sandpaper. The stabilizer and wing mounted on the fuselage should not spin. To prevent this from happening, paper tubes should be twisted and glued to a square blank. The best material for tubes is thin notebook paper. Preliminary paper blanks 2 and 8 are molded by tightly running them at the ends of the rail. Then twist the tube with your fingers, turn it around 2-3 turns and, greasing with glue, twist again. Wrap the workpiece with thread or rubber tape until the glue completely dries. Then, with sandpaper, it is necessary to clean the edges that are hard from glue. Finished tubes are glued into the wing and the stabilizer. The holes for these tubes are pre-pierced with a sharp pencil in the places shown in the figure.
To ensure the flight of the model, immediately after assembly, the following conditions must be met. The plane of the stabilizer should be glued with respect to the lower plane of the wing at an angle of 3-5 °. That is why gluing the tubes into the wing and the stabilizer must be done as carefully as possible. If you still get some discrepancies, correct them by bending the fuselage rail. Of course, to completely fine-tune the model, more careful regulation of the position of the fuselage bent relative to the wing and the stabilizer will be required.
In flight, the “duck” model (such a paper glider is made according to such a scheme) are prone to cabling, that is, to lift up one’s nose, which leads to an increase in drag and a decrease in speed.
In such cases, they either change the angle of the stabilizer relative to the wing, or reduce the stabilizer area by cutting it with scissors, or slightly bend the tips up.
The center of gravity of the glider should be in front of the leading edge of the wing. Therefore, if necessary, attach an additional weight, a piece of plasticine, to the nose of the fuselage. Carry out the necessary centering of the model, launching it from hand. If the glider dives abruptly, then you need to increase the angle of the stabilizer or reduce the mass of the load. If the model is well-planned, you can proceed to launch it on the trainer. To do this, install the hook 4 on the fuselage with the help of threads and glue. And so that the model flies in circles, adjust the angle of inclination of the wing plumage.
Based on the materials of V.A. Zavorotov "From idea to model."
In FIG. 66 and 67 are a general view and drawing of such a model. The glider consists of the fuselage and the parts that are attached to it: the wing, the tail unit and the launch hook. The fuselage is made of a pine plank, the hook is made of 1 mm thick steel wire, the tail is made of millimeter plywood, and the wing (Fig. 68) is made of plywood 1.5 mm thick.
Attaching parts of the model to the fuselage is very simple. At the end of the fuselage we make two mutually perpendicular cuts. We insert the stabilizer in the horizontal cut, and the keel in the vertical. At the bottom of the fuselage we make a cut, into which we insert (on glue) the wing and fix it with the end of the hook.
The model is launched using the simplest catapult, which consists of a handle and a rubber loop (Fig. 66, A). With success, you can use an ordinary slingshot instead of such a catapult (Fig. 69).
The second wooden model of a glider
This model of a glider (Fig. 70) is made entirely of plywood.A drawing of a glider is shown in FIG. 71, and in FIG. 72 shows a model manufacturing process. First, we saw with a jigsaw of plywood 1 mm thick keel with the back of the fuselage, and plywood 1.5 mm thick two parts that are glued to the keel on both sides (Fig. 72, A). We also cut three parts for the front of the fuselage from plywood, but with a thickness of 3 mm. We make them in FIG. 72, B cutouts and glue these parts together. After that, we connect the front and back of the fuselage. To do this, smooth the back of the fuselage with a rasp and glass paper and insert it into the cutout on the glue (Fig. 72, B). For greater reliability of the joints, all glued parts of the fuselage are fastened with small nails.
The wing and stabilizer are made of plywood 1 mm thick. We insert these parts of the model on glue into the cuts of the fuselage. We make cuts with a jigsaw, in which we clamp two files at once, so that the cut is wide. In the bow of the fuselage, we strengthen the hook needed to launch the model using a catapult. We make a hook from a wire with a diameter of 1 mm.
The launch of a glider model is shown in FIG. 73.
The adjustment of wooden models of gliders is not much different from the adjustment of paper models: the model must be precisely centered, the wheels must be correctly set, etc.
When launching wooden models from a catapult, one must be very careful, as it is possible to break glass in windows or injure comrades, because these models have considerable weight and fly at high speed. It is best to run them outdoors, somewhere in the field, in a large uninhabited stadium, etc.
We recommend making wooden models of gliders of large sizes, with a wingspan of up to 1200 mm. Such gliders, released from the mountain without a catapult from the hands, plan, and sometimes soar in the air for several minutes. Make them easy. They do not require much time to build. You can start the model without fear for their integrity - they are strong enough to withstand the impact during landing. They are damaged only if they hit an obstacle at high speed.
Recently, small models of gliders from EPP, in other words from ceiling tiles, have begun to appear in toy stores. Of course, such a toy flies beautifully, withstands many flights and can be launched everywhere, but the prices bite - $ 9 apiece. But you can make a homemade modelka spending no more than 30 rubles on a plane! So, we will begin to sculpt our toy.
Materials:
* ceiling tiles without embossing
*PVA glue
* pine rail 4x4 mm
* buttons
* clothes pegs
* pins or needles
* pens, markers, etc.
*stationery knife
* fine sandpaper on a bar
*plasticine
first you need to print and cut out patterns for the aircraft.
It is advisable to stick the printout to the cardboard. Then attach them to the tile, fix with buttons and draw a wing, stabilizer and keel.
After we remove the templates and cut with a clerical knife (or a medical scalpel) with an allowance of 1-2 mm of the workpiece.
Try not to touch the workpiece lines.
Now you need to process the workpiece. We mark the boundary lines, take a block with a skin and attach a profile to the wing and stabilizers with forward and backward movements.
It is necessary to process confidently, smoothly, without jerking, otherwise you can spoil the part. Of course, you can give a profile and a heated iron, but this method does not always work.
If you have given the details the desired shape, then you can proceed to gluing. In no case grab the glue moment! Solvents will turn the plane into porridge, so you need to use PVA glue. Lath 18-25 cm long is greased with glue on one side and on the other hand, and left for 5 minutes so that the glue is absorbed into the tree. At the stabilizer and the wing, the middle is marked and the bottom is smeared with glue in the midline. Then we fix everything with clothespins, the keel is attached with pins to the wing also in the midline.
The model that we offer you to make (photo 1) will not be an exact copy of a real glider, but if you correctly execute it, it will fly well. A model made on the model of this airframe made a record of 97 meters of flight on level ground (measured in a straight line from the place of take-off to landing).
The glider model is very simple in design.
Photo 1. Paper glider model.
It consists of three parts: the wing, fuselage and “struts” - struts supporting the wing (photo 2).
Download the glider model sweeps, print it on a printer, glue it on thick paper (whatman paper, paper for drawing, drawing), carefully cut it out, assemble it and fly it (photo 2).
Photo 2. Glider made of paper. Blanks.
In this model, the wing does not have a spar and is held in place by the fuselage struts and struts. The wing is made of very thick paper. Thanks to the mount on many struts, the wing will not bend.
The tail of the model - keels and stabilizer - cut not separately, but along with the fuselage. Fold the bow for the model out of two strips of paper. Only two studs are needed to hold the parts together.
Build the model by stowing the cargo strips in the bow of the fuselage. Without fastening the load, substitute the struts from the bottom to the fuselage.
Make sure that the strut struts fit in the middle of the fuselage racks. Only now pierce the nose of the model through struts, fuselage and cargo in two places (photo 3).
Photo 3. Glider made of paper. Cargo fastening with studs.
Insert one hairpin into each puncture, tighten them very tightly, fold the ends down and cut them briefly. You can fasten the bow and one wider puncture, in which one after the other insert two studs on the side of the puncture. At the very end of the fuselage, keels are placed. They do not need to be bent. Before the keels is a stabilizer. It must be bent with a small negative angle, i.e., so that the bend line has a slight slope and the rear end of the stabilizer is slightly raised.
Fig. 3 Mounting the wing on the fuselage racks.
Adjust and start the glider out of paper.
When adjusting, first check the alignment of the model, it should be on the first third of the wing width (Fig. 1). If the load is light and the model has rear alignment, add a few load strips. If the alignment is front and the load is heavy, cut off part of the load.
Fig. 1 Check the alignment of the paper glider.
Then check the installation of the wing and stabilizer (see. Fig. 2) and see if the fuselage and the plane of the keels are curved. The curvature of the fuselage can be eliminated by shifting with force the riveted nose of the fuselage.
Fig. 2
When starting up, hold the model under the wing by the fuselage. On the first launches, you should not direct the flight of the model up. If the model steeply drops its nose, then slightly bend up the elevator. If the model goes to the sides, then slightly, to the other side, bend the entire keel, i.e., both of its strips together. Align the model in flight on one side with ailerons.
Having achieved a smooth, direct flight of the model, test it in strong launches at a range and takeoff altitude. You can change the way you capture the model at startup. The throw will be stronger if you hold the model by the tip of the bow of the model, before riveting. The model flies well both on level ground and on slopes.
Headwind, clouds, natural landscapes, grace and tranquility. No, this is not every hippie's dream (though ... who knows). This is familiar to anyone who is interested in a sport such as gliding. Well, sports or not sports, you decide for yourself, but a great hobby. Gliding - what is it? Designing models of "airplanes" and their practical implementation. Launch, flight, adjustment, launch again and so on. To a large extent, gliding is a children's game for adult uncles and aunts. Airframe designs are not repeated, each airplane is individual. Hence the interest: to build a new, never seen before. In general, the main center around which all actions are tied is a glider. It is in it that the philosophy of gliding is embodied. And how to do it, this plane? A matter of effort and desire.
Model selection
A home-made glider should have some qualities that can be noted with its commercial counterpart. Firstly, the plane, as planned, should fly, and for a long time. Secondly, the model must be strong so that when it hits the ground, it does not break into its component parts.
And thirdly, no one has yet canceled the grace of flight, the more “correctly” a glider flies, the smoother its path, the better. Easy at first glance. But no. It is these characteristics that gliders achieve from their offspring for years, improving and improving their models.
It would be nice to immediately deal with the design. What will be a glider? It’s difficult to achieve correctness with your own hands, so you should at least somehow adhere to the general rules. It’s hard for beginners to make complex models, so you should come up with something light, but no less elegant than purchased options. So, there are two designs of gliders that do not require special forces and costs. Thanks to this, they are great. The first glider is very light. It is based on the example of a constructor. This instance will be assembled, adjusted, launched right at the place of the "tests". The second airplane will be prefabricated, integral and more stable. But, as you know, its manufacture is a hard and painstaking work. Not every beginner glider will build it with ease.
Glider Drawings - A Brief Introduction
For the first and second glider, the set of resources will be almost the same. Wooden blocks, twines, necessarily glue (on it, in fact, it is not recommended to save both quantitatively and qualitatively), ceiling tiles, a piece of plywood. In general, you can start.
Dimensions of the first glider
As you know, the first plane will be very light. Its nodes will be attached with the help of office gum and glue.
Therefore, accuracy should not be followed. It is worth remembering just a few rules. The length of the glider should not exceed a meter, and the wingspan - one and a half meters. The rest is for personal submissions.
Dimensions of the second glider
Here it is worth thinking about the quality of manufacture. After all, the details of an entire aircraft should be adjusted to a millimeter. Drawings of gliders should always correspond to manufactured models, otherwise they will not fly. So, a complex model should have the following dimensions.
In length, the aircraft will be able to "grow" by eight hundred millimeters. The width of the wingspan will be one thousand six hundred millimeters. Attention, the new value is height. What is included in it? "Growth" of the fuselage and stabilizer. All this will come out a hundred millimeters. The main numbers are known, so it's worth getting started.
DIY glider - simple version
Nobody has canceled the practice, therefore, in order to achieve something, it is worth working hard. With the design of gliders all the same. But do not forget that there is an easy way: to create an airplane that does not need painstaking work. Aircraft is the easiest way to make a light glider with your own hands. Very simple. Firstly, it will not be large, which will significantly reduce the processing time.
Complex airplane
It is easy to make a children's glider with your own hands. “Adult” models require some effort and more time to design. But the result is worth it. The manufacture of a complete glider begins with the preparation of the wings. They are carefully and accurately cut, ground. The shape of the wing can be very different. From flat to round. Complex gliders are distinguished by the presence of counterweights. They give stability to the model. The body of the glider can be streamlined wooden blocks. The rest: wings, stabilizers, keel - all the same as in the previous version. With only one small difference: these parts are fixed with glue. Therefore, any changes after startup are not possible. That is why it is so important to calculate everything in advance.
