Do-it-yourself laser engraver on Arduino. DIY laser engraver: materials, assembly, software installation How to make a DIY laser engraver with your own hands
In a previous article, I described the experience of assembling and setting up an engraver from a Chinese kit. Having worked with the device, I realized that in my laboratory it would not be superfluous. The task is set, I will decide.
Two solutions are on the horizon - ordering a kit in China and developing our own design.
CONSTRUCTION DISADVANTAGES WITH ALIEXPRESS
As he wrote in a previous article, the kit turned out to be quite workable. The practice of working with the machine revealed the following design flaws:
- Poorly designed carriage design. In the video in the previous article, this is clearly visible.
- The rollers of the moving units are mounted on the panels with M5 screws and are connected to the panel on one side only. At the same time, no matter how you tighten the screws, there is a backlash.
PLASTIC PARTS
Since the frame from the machine profile is quite decent, it was possible to eliminate the identified shortcomings by processing plastic parts.
The laser holder I described quite well in. Also in the design, I added an additional detail linking all four rollers on the right and left panels. The detail allowed to eliminate backlash when moving the panels.
All parts have fairly simple shapes and do not require support or other printing difficulties.
To order a set of plastic parts, you must go to the online store:
Models of plastic parts for printing are available:
DEMONSTRATION OF WORK
The work of the engraver and its appearance can be evaluated in the next video.
DESIGN OF THE ENGRAVER
The engraver’s frame is built on a 20 × 40 aluminum machine profile. Parts bearing the moving parts of the engraver are made on a 3D printer. Moving parts move on standard casters. The carriage carrying the laser module allows you to adjust the height of the laser above the desktop, which allows you to focus the power of the laser beam in a fairly wide range.
The assembly of the structure is shown in 3D PDF format.
ASSEMBLY
The design is very simple. For this reason, a lot of time and pain in the assembly will not go away, if you follow the recommended assembly sequence.
STEP 1. FRAME
As described above, the frame is built from a structural profile 20x40. To twist the profile between themselves, internal corners are used.
On longer parts in the central holes of the ends, a thread is cut for mounting the legs and side panels (on the average length).
The frame is twisted at the corners, with short details inward. At this stage, do not fully tighten the screws - it is better to do this after installing the legs.
The legs are screwed at four points. This is done so that the frame is assembled without possible distortions.
First you need to fix all four legs, again not fully tightening the fasteners.
Now you need to find the most even surface! Expose all the details in such a way that the frame "stands" tightly, without playing on the surface.
We stretch out all the fasteners, starting from the inner corners and controlling possible distortions with a square.
STEP 2. RIGHT PANEL
Before assembling the right panel, a flexible coupling must be installed on the motor shaft.
Then you need to screw the stepper motor through a spacer made of plastic.
The position of the cable outlet and the spacer are clearly visible in the figure below.
STEP 3. LEFT PANEL
To assemble the left panel, you only need to press the bearing into the hole.
I tried to exclude the gluing operation. To do this, "wave" on the surface of the hole for mounting the bearing. For this reason, it is necessary to press the bearing with force.
STEP 4. INSTALL THE LEFT PANEL
Then install the assembly on the profile.
And fasten the bottom rollers. The figure clearly shows that the mounting holes of the screws for mounting the rollers have a stroke of several millimeters. This is done so that the upper and lower rollers can be pulled well on the profile, eliminating play. The only thing is that you need to act carefully and not overtighten. In this case, the stepper motor will need excessive force to move the panels.
STEP 5. INSTALLING THE RIGHT PANEL
The following parts are required for installation.
First you need to install the upper rollers.
Then install the assembly on the profile and install the lower rollers. Further installation is identical to the installation of the left panel.
After pulling the screws you will need to check the progress of the panel. It should move quite easily and at the same time there should be no backlash.
STEP 6. MOUNTING THE GUIDE CARRIAGE
Both panels are used in this design to transmit movement along the Y axis. In order not to use 2 stepper motors, the torque to the left panel is transmitted through a shaft with a diameter of 5 mm. After preparing the details, we proceed.
First, the connecting shaft is installed and clamped by the locking screws of the flexible coupling.
At installation it is necessary to check that pulleys are not forgotten. There is no need to fix them firmly at the moment. When tightening the belts, adjustment is required.
STEP 7. CARRIAGE
Carriage assembly is discussed in detail in a previous article ...
Assembly is not particularly difficult.
STEP 8. MOUNTING THE CARRIAGE ON THE GUIDE
First you need to collect all the necessary details.
All mounting operations are identical to panel mounting operations.
STEP 9. MOUNTING THE BELT
Belts are attracted by screws under the profile nuts. It will be necessary to cut 3 belts in place and prepare the fasteners.
To begin with, the edge of the belt is located in the niche of the profile with the tooth down. After that, the nut is installed. A nut is required to install the nut.
While tensioning the belt, it will be necessary to set the position of the pulley. The pulley is set so that the belt runs against the side faces of the pulley as little as possible.
To install the belt of the guide carriage, it is better to lift it as shown in the figure below, since it is still better to install the nuts in the niche from the end.
After the guide falls to its regular place.
Before tightening the second “tail” of the belt, make sure that the belt is tight enough.
This completes the assembly of mechanics.
CONTROLLER
I plan to prepare a description of the controllers for controlling the engraver in a separate article. Follow publications!
ASSEMBLY KIT AND TURNKEY LASER ENGRAVER
Since December 2017, I have been accepting orders for a complete set for assembly and for the assembled, customized and fully ready for use laser engraver described in the article. Information is available in the online store.
If the article helped you and there is a desire to support new projects, a link to support:
Lasers have long come into our everyday life. Guides use light pointers, builders with beam support set levels. The calling of the laser - to heat substances (up to thermal destruction) - is used for cutting and decorating. One application - laser engraving. On different materials, you can get subtle patterns with virtually no restrictions on complexity.
A wide selection of engraving machines, mainly of Chinese manufacture, is presented in the implementation. The equipment is not very expensive, however, the acquisition simply for the purpose of entertainment is impractical. Much fun to do DIY homemade laser engraver.
How to make an engraver from a printer?
How to make a do-it-yourself engraver? It is completely easy to make a CNC engraver from an old printer. It's like an Arduino constructor. Detailed instructions will undoubtedly help you find your way around.
However, first it is necessary prepare all the required components for the CNC:
- 3 hairpins from a hardware mall;
- dural U-profile;
- 2 metal bearings;
- a piece of plexiglass;
- nuts of ordinary size metal and large;
- 3 stepper motors, they can be taken from an old printer.
It is also necessary that such devices are at hand:
- saw;
- screws;
- screwdrivers and other devices.
The only thing that will need to be done outside the house is to weld the base for the CNC machine, although it is also allowed to do it in a bolted mount.
Machine production steps
The engraver begins with mounting the lead screw and profile. The final stage - apply the slide.
Progress:
An engraving machine in this modification, developed by one's own hands, can be an ordinary home dremel. Attach your engraver allowed with plexiglass.
Here you are ready to do a laser desktop engraver with your own hands. Now it remains only to connect it using the limit switches. This home-made device makes it possible to carry out stone carving in domestic conditions, but does not make it possible to divide it.
How to assemble a laser engraving device using a diode from an old DVD drive?
Your laser can be made from a DVD drive. Do-it-yourself optical beam is unlikely to be controlled with iron or wood.
However, it will be completely possible for them to share:
- paper;
- a small sheet of plastic;
- plastic film;
- other simple and delicate products.
In addition to the above alternatives, a laser made with your own hands from a DVD drive is allowed to come up with a lot of the most various tasks. In particular, its potential is perfectly revealed in the creative field.
If the thread is not needed, laser from a DVD drive you can:
- burn patterns or pictures on wood surfaces;
- to illuminate various objects removed at a great distance;
- use as decoration at home;
- draw direct lines (because the beam is perfectly visible), which will be especially useful during construction and repair.
What will be needed to complete the work?
To make a beam, you need certain elements. They are always sold in ordinary electronics shopping centers, therefore, no extra efforts will be made to apply.
Thus, for the purpose of production, you will need:
Disassembly of the drive must be carried out with special care. With careless handling, you can not only ruin the mechanism, but also cause damage to your own eyes. The problem is that the beam has the ability to blind at some time and negatively reflect in visual acuity.
Now homemade fixture should be provided with electric current. The power supply of a conventional diode must be 3V, and the consumption - up to 400 mA. These values \u200b\u200bmay vary depending on the speed of writing to the drive. The laser does not need huge performance. So, the drive component, whose recording speed is 16X, 200 mA is enough. It is allowed to increase this value as much as possible up to 300 milliamps, otherwise there is the opportunity to spoil the crystal and forget about the homemade laser.
Homemade collimator is easiest to do with an ordinary laser pointer. The cheapest Chinese option is also suitable. All that is needed is to remove the optical lens from the “laser” (it is visible). The width of the half-line will be more than 5 millimeters. Of course, this kind of coefficient is huge and can not claim the title of a laser. To reduce the diameter up to 1 mm, the stock collimator lens will help. Although in order to achieve a similar effect, I will have to thoroughly work.
Making a laser with your own hands is a very interesting process. It does not require any specialized parts or large economic costs. Completely pretty neat and shallow knowledge of the electrician. With a successful production, you can start using the device. Cutting beam without difficulty pops balloons, burns paper and leaves prints on a tree. However, in the application should not forget about technical safety.
The author took 4 months to assemble such an engraver, its power is 2 watts. This is not too much, but it allows you to do engraving on wood and plastic. Also, the device can cut a cork tree. The article contains all the necessary material for creating an engraver, including STL files for printing structural units, as well as electronic circuits for connecting motors, lasers, and so on.
Engraver video:
Materials and tools:
Access to a 3D printer;
- 5/16 "stainless steel rods;
- bronze bushings (for plain bearings);
- diode M140 at 2 watts;
- radiator and coolers to create cooling of the diode;
- stepper motors, pulleys, timing belts;
- Super glue;
- wooden beam;
- plywood;
- bolts with nuts;
- acrylic (to create inserts);
- G-2 lens and driver;
- thermal grease;
- protective glasses;
- Arduino UNO controller;
- drill, cutting tool, screws, etc.
The process of making an engraver:
Step one. Create the Y axis
Autodesk Inventor first needs to design a printer frame. Then you can begin to print the elements of the Y axis and to assemble it. The first part, which is printed on a 3D printer, is needed in order to install the stepper motor on the Y axis, connect the steel shafts and provide sliding along one of the shafts of the X axis.
After the part is printed, two bronze bushings must be installed in it, they are used as sliding supports. To reduce friction, the bushings must be lubricated. This is a great solution for such projects, because it is cheap.
As for the guides, they are made of stainless steel rods with a diameter of 5/16 ". The stainless steel has a small coefficient of friction with bronze, so it is great for plain bearings.
A laser is also mounted on the Y axis, it has a metal case and is heated quite strongly. To reduce the risk of overheating, you need to install an aluminum radiator and coolers for cooling. The author used old elements from the robot controller.
Among other things, in the block for laser 1 "X1" you need to make a hole 31/64 "and add a bolt to the side face. The block is connected to another part, which is also printed on a 3D printer, it will move along the Y axis. toothed belt.
After assembling the laser module, it is mounted on the Y axis. Also at this stage, stepper motors, pulleys and timing belts are installed.
Step Two Create the X axis
To create the base of the engraver, a tree was used. The most important thing is that the two X axes are clearly parallel, otherwise the device will wedge. To move along the X coordinate, a separate motor is used, as well as a drive belt in the center along the Y axis. Thanks to this design, the system turned out to be simple and works fine.
Super glue can be used to secure the cross beam that connects the belt to the Y axis. But it is best for these purposes to print special brackets on a 3D printer.
Step Three We connect and check electronics
A home-made diode of the M140 type is used, you can buy a more powerful one, but the price will be higher. To focus the beam, you need a lens and an adjustable power source. The lens is mounted on the laser using thermal paste. Work with lasers only in safety glasses.
To check how electronics work, the author turned it on outside the machine. A computer cooler is used to cool the electronics. The system runs on the Arduino Uno controller, which is associated with grbl. So that the signal can be transmitted online, the Universal Gcode Sender is used. To convert vector images to G-code, you can use Inkscape with the installed gcodetools plugin. To control the laser, a contact is used that controls the operation of the spindle. This is one of the simplest examples using gcodetools.
Step Four Engraver body
Side faces are made of plywood. Since the stepper motor slightly extends beyond the body during operation, a rectangular hole must be made in the rear face. In addition, you must not forget to make holes for cooling, connecting power, as well as a USB port. The edges of the upper and front parts of the body are also made of plywood, and acrylic walls are installed in the central part. Above all the elements that are installed in the lower part of the box, an additional wooden platform is attached. It is the basis for the material with which the laser works.
For the manufacture of walls, orange acrylic is used, since it absorbs laser rays perfectly. It is important to remember that even a reflected laser beam can seriously damage the eye. That's all, the laser is ready. You can start the test.
Of course, complex images are not very high quality, but a simple engraver burns out without difficulty. Also, using it you can easily cut a cork tree.
Attention!Be careful when using lasers. The laser used in this machine can cause visual damage and possibly blindness. When working with powerful lasers, more than 5 mW, always wear a pair of safety glasses designed to block the laser wavelength.
Arduino laser engraver is a device whose role is the engraving of wood and other materials. Over the past 5 years, laser diodes have advanced, which made it possible to make sufficiently powerful engravers without the particular difficulty of controlling laser tubes.
Carefully engrave other materials. So, for example, when using plastic when working with a laser device, smoke will appear that contains hazardous gases during combustion.
In this lesson I will try to give a direction of thought, and over time we will create a more detailed lesson on the implementation of this complex device.
To begin with, I propose to see how the whole process of creating an engraver for one radio amateur looked like:
Strong stepper motors also require drivers to make the most of them. In this project, a special step driver for each motor is taken.
Below is some information about the selected components:
- Stepper motor - 2 pieces.
- Frame Size - NEMA 23.
- Torque 1.8 Nm at 255 oz.
- 200 steps / revolutions - in 1 step 1.8 degrees.
- Current - up to 3.0 A.
- Weight - 1.05 kg.
- Bipolar 4-wire connection.
- Step driver - 2 pieces.
- Digital stepping drive.
- Chip.
- Output current - from 0.5 A to 5.6 A.
- Output current limiter - reduces the risk of motor overheating.
- Control signals: Step and Direction inputs.
- Pulse input frequency - up to 200 kHz.
- Supply voltage - 20 V - 50 V of a direct current.
For each axis, the motor directly controls the ball screw through the motor connector. Engines are mounted on a frame using two aluminum corners and an aluminum plate. The aluminum corners and plate are 3 mm thick and strong enough to support the engine (1 kg) without bending.
Important!The motor shaft and ball screw must be correctly aligned. The connectors that are used have some flexibility to compensate for minor errors, but if the alignment error is too large, they will not work!
Another process of creating this device can be seen in the video:
2. Materials and tools
Below is a table with the materials and tools needed for the Arduino Laser Engraver project.
| Paragraph | Provider | number |
| NEMA 23 Stepper Motor + Driver | eBay (seller: primopal_motor) | 2 |
| Diameter 16 mm, pitch 5 mm, 400 mm ball screw (Taiwanese) | eBay (seller: silvers-123) | 2 |
| 16 mm ball screw support BK12 (drive end) | eBay (seller: silvers-123) | 2 |
| 16mm BF12 Ball Screw Support (without driven end) | eBay (seller: silvers-123) | 2 |
| 16 shaft 500 mm long | (seller: silvers-123) | 4 |
| (SK16) 16 shaft bearings (SK16) | (seller: silvers-123) | 8 |
| 16 linear bearing (SC16LUU) | eBay (seller: silvers-123) | 4 |
| eBay (seller: silvers-123) | 2 | |
| Shaft holder 12 mm (SK12) | (seller: silvers-123) | 2 |
| A4 size 4.5mm clear acrylic sheet | eBay (seller: acrylicsonline) | 4 |
| Aluminum Flat Rod 100 mm x 300 mm x 3 mm | eBay (seller: willymetals) | 3 |
| 50 mm x 50 mm 2.1 m Aluminum fence | Any theme store | 3 |
| Aluminum Flat Rod | Any theme store | 1 |
| Aluminum corner | Any theme store | 1 |
| Aluminum angle 25 mm x 25 mm x 1 m x 1.4 mm | Any theme store | 1 |
| M5 head screws (various lengths) | boltsnutsscrewsonline.com | |
| M5 nuts | boltsnutsscrewsonline.com | |
| M5 washers | boltsnutsscrewsonline.com |
3. Development of the base and axles
The machine uses ball screws and linear bearings to control the position and movement of the X and Y axes.
Characteristics of ball screws and machine accessories:
- 16 mm ball screw, length - 400 mm-462 mm, including machined ends;
- pitch - 5 mm;
- C7 accuracy rating;
- BK12 / BF12 ball bearings.
Since the ball nut consists of ball bearings rolling caterpillar against a very low-friction ball screw, this means that the motors can run at higher speeds without stopping.
The rotational orientation of the ball nut is blocked by an aluminum element. The base plate is attached to two linear bearings and to a ball nut through an aluminum corner. Ballscrew rotates the base plate in linear motion.
4. Electronic component
The selected laser diode is a 1.5 W, 445 nm diode mounted in a 12 mm case with a focused glass lens. Such can be found, pre-assembled, on eBay. Since this is a 445 nm laser, the light that it produces is visible blue light.
The laser diode requires a radiator when operating at high power levels. When designing the engraver, two aluminum supports for the SK12 12 mm are used, both for mounting and for cooling the laser module.
The laser output intensity depends on the current that passes through it. The diode alone cannot regulate the current, and if it is connected directly to the power source, it will increase the current until it is destroyed. Thus, an adjustable current circuit is required to protect the laser diode and control its brightness.
Another option for connecting the microcontroller and electronic parts:
5. Software
The Arduino sketch interprets each command block. There are several commands:
1 - move the RIGHT one pixel FAST (empty pixel).
2 - move the RIGHT one pixel SLOW (burnt pixel).
3 - move the LEFT one pixel FAST (empty pixel).
4 - move the LEFT one pixel SLOW (burnt pixel).
5 - move up one FAST pixel (empty pixel).
6 - move UP one pixel SLOW (burnt pixel).
7 - move DOWN with one FAST pixel (empty pixel).
8 - move DOWN one pixel SLOW (burnt pixel).
9 - turn on the laser.
0 - turn off the laser.
r - return the axis to its original position.
With each character, the Arduino launches a corresponding function for writing to the output pins.
Arduino controls engine speed across delays between step pulses. In the ideal case, the machine will start the engines at the same speed, regardless of whether it engraves the image or passes an empty pixel. However, due to the limited power of the laser diode, the machine should slow down at pixel records. That's why there two speeds for each direction in the list of command symbols above.
Sketch of 3 programs for laser Arduino-engraver below:
/ * Stepper motor control program * / // constants won "t change. Used here to set pin numbers: const int ledPin \u003d 13; // the number of the LED pin const int int OFF \u003d 0; const int ON \u003d 1; const int XmotorDIR \u003d 5; const int XmotorPULSE \u003d 2; const int YmotorDIR \u003d 6; const int YmotorPULSE \u003d 3; // half step delay for blank pixels - multiply by 8 (<8ms)
const unsigned int shortdelay = 936;
//half step delay for burnt pixels - multiply by 8 (<18ms)
const unsigned int longdelay = 2125;
//Scale factor
//Motor driver uses 200 steps per revolution
//Ballscrew pitch is 5mm. 200 steps/5mm, 1 step = 0.025mm
//const int scalefactor = 4; //full step
const int scalefactor = 8; //half step
const int LASER = 51;
// Variables that will change:
int ledState = LOW; // ledState used to set the LED
int counter = 0;
int a = 0;
int initialmode = 0;
int lasermode = 0;
long xpositioncount = 0;
long ypositioncount = 0;
//***********************************************************************************************************
//Initialisation Function
//***********************************************************************************************************
void setup()
{
// set the digital pin as output:
pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(LASER, OUTPUT);
for (a = 2; a <8; a++){
pinMode(a, OUTPUT);
}
a = 0;
setinitialmode();
digitalWrite (ledPin, ON);
delay(2000);
digitalWrite (ledPin, OFF);
// Turn the Serial Protocol ON
Serial.begin(9600);
}
//************************************************************************************************************
//Main loop
//************************************************************************************************************
void loop()
{
byte byteRead;
if (Serial.available()) {
/* read the most recent byte */
byteRead = Serial.read();
//You have to subtract "0" from the read Byte to convert from text to a number.
if (byteRead!="r"){
byteRead=byteRead-"0";
}
//Move motors
if(byteRead==1){
//Move right FAST
fastright();
}
if(byteRead==2){
//Move right SLOW
slowright();
}
if(byteRead==3){
//Move left FAST
fastleft();
}
if(byteRead==4){
//Move left SLOW
slowleft();
}
if(byteRead==5){
//Move up FAST
fastup();
}
if(byteRead==6){
//Move up SLOW
slowup();
}
if(byteRead==7){
//Move down FAST
fastdown();
}
if(byteRead==8){
//Move down SLOW
slowdown();
}
if(byteRead==9){
digitalWrite (LASER, ON);
}
if(byteRead==0){
digitalWrite (LASER, OFF);
}
if (byteRead=="r"){
//reset position
xresetposition();
yresetposition();
delay(1000);
}
}
}
//************************************************************************************************************
//Set initial mode
//************************************************************************************************************
void setinitialmode()
{
if (initialmode == 0){
digitalWrite (XmotorDIR, OFF);
digitalWrite (XmotorPULSE, OFF);
digitalWrite (YmotorDIR, OFF);
digitalWrite (YmotorPULSE, OFF);
digitalWrite (ledPin, OFF);
initialmode = 1;
}
}
//************************************************************************************************************
// Main Motor functions
//************************************************************************************************************
void fastright()
{
for (a=0; a
6. Launch and setup
Arduino represents the brain for the car. It outputs step and direction signals for step drivers and a laser resolution signal for the laser driver. In the current project, only 5 output contacts are required to control the machine. It is important to remember that the bases for all components must be connected to each other.
7. Health check
This circuit requires at least 10 VDC power and has a simple on / off input signal provided by Arduino. The LM317T is a linear voltage regulator that is configured as a current regulator. A potentiometer is included in the circuit, allowing you to adjust the adjustable current.
Stone processing in ancient times was carried out by our ancestors. This culture has survived to the present day, but only working with this material has become much easier and more convenient, thanks to innovations and modern machines. A laser desktop stone engraver facilitates the work and allows you to make clear drawings on any type of stone.
A laser machine is a convenient and quick way to apply any image to a stone, thanks to which you can make any complexity of the pattern, even those that can not be created with your own hands. Using an engraving printer, you can open your own profitable business. But how much does such a machine cost, and which models are popular?
Stone Engraving Machine
Today, many companies produce good quality laser machines. Each of them has its pros and cons. The table describes the models of the best manufacturers and prices.
These are the most popular models that allow you to start your own business for the provision of services related to stone engraving. But not everyone has the opportunity to purchase such equipment right away, in which case you can start your own business with a do-it-yourself machine. A DIY laser engraver is the best way to start a business with minimal investment.
How to make an engraver from a printer?
It is not difficult to make an engraving machine from an old printer. Detailed instructions will help you figure it out. But first you need to prepare all the necessary details:
- 3 hairpins from a hardware store;
- aluminum P-profile;
- 2 bearings;
- a piece of plexiglass;
- regular sized and long nuts;
- 3 stepper motors, they can be borrowed from an old printer.
Also, besides this, you need to have such tools at hand: a hacksaw, drill, jigsaw, bolts, screws, screwdrivers and other tools. The only thing that needs to be done outside the house is to weld the base for the machine, although it can also be made on a bolted mount. Instructions on how to make a laser printer at home with your own hands are described in the table below.
| No. p / p | Machine manufacturing steps |
| 1. | The manufacturing of the machine begins with the fastening of the lead screw and profile. The latter is used as a kind of sled. |
| Bearings are fixed by heat shrinkage, and soft plastic is an excellent choice for hauling - an ordinary folder for paper. A plate in the shape of the letter “P” with a bolt is attached to the lead screw, it is necessary for fixing the plane of the X axis. | |
| The motor on the X axis is attached with studs. The axis is fixed with an adapter and a piece of rubber hose. On one side, it is screwed onto the axle, and the other end is fixed in the adapter. | |
| 4. | It is also very convenient and simple to mount the engine on the frame. |
| 5. | We make the platform from plexiglass, on which it is absolutely necessary to put a limiter made of a profile and a pressure roller. The platform should be the size of the working field of the machine. |
| 6. | The Y axis is collected identically to the X axis, the only difference in mounting the engine, it must be attached to the X axis. |
| It is not difficult to assemble the Y axis correctly, because it almost repeats all the contours of the X axis, but only the pressure rollers should be fixed in front. The DIY engraving machine in this model can be an ordinary household dremel. You can attach it using plexiglass. |
Do-it-yourself laser desktop engraving machine is ready. Now it remains only to connect it, using the limit switches. This home-made device allows you to carry out stone carving at home, but does not allow you to cut it.
What stones can be engraved on?
Not every stone can be machined with an engraving machine, dark natural materials, such as:
- granite;
- marble;
- white marble.
The engraving on snow-white marble looks especially beautiful, since the machine tool is able to produce a continuous white stone inscription or pattern, and the result is very beautiful. Laser engraving can be compared to frosting glass. Indeed, with the help of such a machine it will not be possible to make a deep inscription, since the beam is capable of melting the material, and in the end the work is almost imperceptible. The best effect of the machine is obtained on surfaces in grayscale.
But as soon as you manage to make money on a good machine, you should buy it if there is a prospect of working further in this area. Professional machines allow you to create an image quickly, accurately and accurately, this applies even to the smallest details. Thanks to a professional-grade laser engraver, excellent resemblance to a photographic source can be achieved. A professional machine, even a desktop one, is capable of inscribing any font and size, so it is convenient and practical.
Save the article in 2 clicks:
Starting a business with a homemade engraver is convenient and inexpensive, but in the future, in order to satisfy all the needs and desires of your customers, you still have to purchase a modern engraver model, albeit an inexpensive one. Thus, your business will flourish and will pay off in a short time. By learning how to create masterpieces on a stone with your own hands, you will make yourself good fame, and customers will come to you with orders.
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