DIY stone fence. DIY construction and decoration of stone pillars

A stone fence is a variant of the fence that compares favorably with others in its unsurpassed durability and strength. But the list of advantages is not limited to the outstanding utilitarian qualities alone - it is composed of skillfully selected cobblestones, it has an extraordinary beautiful texture that perfectly matches any landscape. The only drawback of such fences is the high cost of their construction, but this defect can be easily eliminated - take, and build a stone fence with your own hands.

Calculations and preparatory work

Start building a stone fence by clarifying the boundaries of your own land plot. Having found out where the boundary lines pass, draw a plan of the fence, and then decide what kind of stone you will use. Having made an estimate of the upcoming expenses, buy the necessary consumables, along the way, acquire the required tools, and only after that start construction work.

Determining the boundaries of the site

Before building a stone fence with your own hands, do not be too lazy to clarify the boundaries of your own courtyard - perhaps they do not pass in the place where you are used to counting. Having captured a part of the neighboring allotment with your fence, you will find yourself in a very delicate position, since the stone fence is a monolithic structure, and you will no longer be able to move it when the error becomes clear. In order to prevent the occurrence of such situations, invite surveyors and ask them to conduct a land survey.

Having specified the boundaries of the personal territory, measure the length of all sides and draw a sketch of the future structure. To do this, determine the desired height of the fence (as a rule, it is 2-2.2 m), then outline the location of the gate and wicket, and then calculate the number of support posts. Calculate the number of supports based on the recommended span length of 2.5-3.2 m.

Typical project of a stone fence

Optimal span parameters

Choosing a stone for building a fence

In modern landscape design, various types of raw natural stone are used, most of which are quite suitable for the construction of all kinds of fences.

Most often used for the construction of fences:

  • cobblestone (he is a pebble savage or boulder) - a very durable stone of a steel-gray color, which is essentially round fragments of basalt or granite;
  • dolomite - yellowish-white or light gray, flat stone with sharp edges, outwardly somewhat similar to marble;
  • limestone (shell rock) is a soft, well-processed light and light material, the only drawback of which is its high hygroscopicity;
  • sandstone is a durable, frost- and water-resistant layered stone, which has long been used to build fences;
  • quarry (otherwise scrap stone) - irregular pieces of sandstone, granite or limestone, usually used for the arrangement of foundations.

If you are a novice bricklayer, it is better to choose plate sandstone or hewn limestone to build a stone fence with your own hands. Having a relatively regular shape, such materials fit quite easily into even rows, so they are simple and convenient to work with. However, in fairness, it should be noted that truly original design fences are obtained only from angular and bumpy buta or cobblestone.

Preparation of consumables and tools

Having purchased or independently prepared the required amount of stone, purchase the following building materials:

  • cement M300 or M400;
  • medium fraction crushed stone;
  • sand with a particle size of 0.15-5 mm;
  • reinforcing bars with a diameter of 8-12 mm;
  • thick steel pipes 3.5-4 m long;
  • semi-edged boards for the manufacture of formwork;
  • decorative elements - clay tiles, lanterns, forged pillars, lances or trellises.

Having acquired consumables, rent a concrete mixer and a welding machine and prepare the necessary tools and devices, namely:

  • wooden stakes;
  • 5-6 skeins of construction cord;
  • plumb line and spirit level;
  • hacksaw for wood and metal;
  • roulette;
  • ramming;
  • bayonet and shovel;
  • trowel;
  • guillemot;
  • wire brush;
  • several large buckets.

Arrangement of reinforced strip foundation

After you have finished preparing everything you need, start excavating and first clear the construction site of debris and plants. After completing the cleaning, level the soil in the desired area and transfer the fence plan to the area.

Mandatory preparatory work

Before you build a stone fence with your own hands:

  1. Mark the outer corners of the future fence with long stakes driven into the ground.
  2. Connect them in series with a cord taut near the ground.
  3. Having fixed the outer boundaries in this way, determine the locations of the support pillars and mark them with pegs.

A stone fence is a heavy structure, prone to distortions and subsidence. The best base option for such a massive structure is a reinforced solid strip foundation, the width of which is 15-20 cm greater than the thickness of the fence itself.

So that the stone fence does not collapse under the influence of surface waters, it is erected on a foundation that rises above the soil surface in the form of a powerful 15-centimeter base.

Excavation and formwork construction

Strictly follow the procedure for performing earthworks:

  1. Along the entire marked border of the fence, from the inside of the perimeter, remove a strip of turf 50-70 cm wide.
  2. Dig a narrow 80 cm trench according to the outlined contours.
  3. In the places where the fence posts are installed, deepen the moat by another 40 cm.
  4. Carefully level the bottom of the ditch and pillars and cover with a five-centimeter layer of sand.
  5. Thoroughly compact the sand cushion with a hand rammer.

Perform the construction of the formwork and reinforcing frame in the following sequence:

  1. From the cut-to-size boards, knock down the 1.10 m high formwork panels and install them close to the sides of the trench. To fix the formwork parts every meter, fasten them with vertical posts and support them with diagonal struts.
  2. Weld a reinforcing grid with a mesh size of 15 by 15 cm from steel rods.
  3. Lower the reinforcement mesh to the bottom of the ditch and secure it 5 cm above the sand level.
  4. Place the second grate 20 cm below the soil surface.
  5. Use steel rods driven into the bottom of the trench in two parallel rows at 50 cm increments to secure the reinforcement mesh to the desired level.
  6. Install steel pipes in the center of the section of the support legs in a strictly vertical position.

Preparation of mortar and concreting of the foundation

In a concrete mixer using cement, water, sand, plasticizer and crushed stone, prepare standard heavy concrete and pour it into the formwork.
Compact the mass of concrete with a vibrator (or a shovel), smooth the surface of the mortar and cover it with a thick plastic wrap to prevent premature evaporation of moisture. In the heat, you can pour cold water on concrete.
When the concrete acquires its final hardness, remove the formwork, but do not start laying the fence yet - it takes one month for the mortar to fully "mature" and harden.

Construction of stone pillars

The supporting pillars are parallelepipeds with a section of 300 by 300 or 400 by 400 mm and a height of 2.3-2.5 m. Such stone pillars are laid out using the sliding formwork method. For the reliability of fastening the spans, the supports are equipped with steel inserts.
Before you start laying out the pillars for a stone fence with your own hands, equip them with steel mortgages. To do this, cut pieces of reinforcement rods 60-70 cm long and weld them to the metal frames of the posts. Orient the sections of the rods parallel to the line of the base and fasten them one above the other with a step of 30-50 cm.

Support post formwork

Stages of building stone pillars:

  1. In accordance with the chosen dimensions, construct a formwork for the post from the boards - a low (30-40 cm) square box without a bottom and a cover.
  2. Place the formwork on the foundation so that the vertical steel base of the support is exactly in the center of the box.
  3. Prepare a fairly thick mortar of three parts seeded sand and one part cement. For a stronger connection of boulders, add ¼ part of PVA glue to the mixture. If you want to end up with seams of a contrasting color, add dry pigment to the solution.
  4. As tightly as possible, with flat edges outward, lay the initial row of stones inside the formwork. Fill the voids between them with a solution.
  5. After filling the first box with stones, place a second one on top of it, and continue laying.
  6. After a day, dismantle the bottom row of boards, install it above the second tier and also fill it with stones and cement.
  7. Proceed in this order and further - gradually moving the boxes upward, bring the pillar to the required height.
  8. Carefully seal up the gaps between the stones after removing the formwork.

Fence spans

The most crucial stage is the construction of stone spans. The sequence is as follows:

  1. Sort stones by shape and size. If necessary, beat off especially protruding edges, make notches on a smooth cobblestone, split the largest boulders into several parts.
  2. Between adjacent supports, near the foundation, pull two rows of cords that will limit the outer and inner plane of the wall.
  3. Apply the solution to the base and in one step (so that the cement does not have time to set) make the starting row of the span.
  4. First, lay out versts - rows of stones along the outer and inner edges of the wall, then fill in the gap between them. Try to lay the cobblestones flat side up, fill the gaps between them with mortar.
  5. A day later, after the initial layer of stones has hardened, lift the strings and lay the next row, remembering to make bandages from time to time.
  6. When the level of the fence reaches the first mortgages, weld a thin reinforcing mesh to them and continue laying.
  7. In this way, bring the fence up to the desired height. In the process of work, control the thickness of the walls with a wooden U-shaped template, and their verticality - with a plumb line.
  8. In order for the picturesque texture of the irregular masonry to be better visible, 4 hours after the erection of each tier, embroider the seams between the stones with a scraper or a narrow curly trowel.

Clean the finished fence with a wire brush from the dried splashes of cement mortar, then rinse it with a 30% solution of hydrochloric acid. Cover the tops of the support posts with decorative waterproof caps.
If desired, decorate the fence with lanterns, wooden balusters or curly wrought iron elements.

Stone fence decorated with wrought iron elements

Features of the construction of a fence made of artificial stone

Artificial stone costs several times less than any natural stone. It is made from concrete, which, using dyes and special molds, is given the color, shape and texture of wild species. Artificial stone is very durable, but you should not use it in areas with surface groundwater, as well as in places located near busy highways.
The technology of building a fence made of artificial stone practically does not differ from the procedure for erecting natural stone fences. The only difference between them is the possibility of using ready-made support pillars and a lightweight method of laying, which is more like the classic "brick" method.

Video: DIY stone fence construction


Now you know how to make a stone fence with your own hands, and were able to make sure that building a stone fence is a long, troublesome and painstaking process. But the result of such construction is a hundredfold pays for all the money, effort and time spent. If you lack your own experience, entrust the work to professionals.

The fence can be built from a variety of materials, but it is the stone fence that is considered the most reliable. In addition, this design looks very beautiful and original. Most often, natural raw materials are used for construction, but recently artificial varieties of materials have become very popular. It is possible to build a fence with your own hands.

Refine your site with a stone fence

basic information

Stone is a very popular raw material for building fences. This material has many advantages:

  1. Reliability. It is impossible to break such a fence without professional equipment or special tools. The house will be perfectly protected.
  2. Long service life. The stone fence is very durable. It easily withstands adverse weather conditions: cold, heat, wind and rain.
  3. Presentability. Such a fence looks very solid and beautiful.
  4. Compatibility with other elements. Often, when building a stone fence, metal or wooden fragments are used, as well as additional forged decorations.
  5. Fire resistance. Fences made of this material serve as a good barrier against intrusion of fire from the outside.
  6. Ecological cleanliness. Natural stone is a natural material that does not have any negative impact on human health.
  7. The freedom to choose the size. From stone you can build just such a fence as the owner desires. There are no prohibitions or critical parameters.

In this video, we will consider how to make a stone fence:

However, everything has its drawbacks. The following material shortcomings are distinguished:

  1. High price. Stone is an expensive raw material. If the installation is done by workers, it will also cost a lot. You can save money if you build a stone fence with your own hands.
  2. The need to comply with the conditions. This material is picky enough. The stone has a large mass, so the base must be very strong and reliable. For the construction of buildings, areas with nearby groundwater and places with soil vibrations are not suitable.
  3. Labor intensity. In order to build such a fence, you need to spend a lot of time and effort.

Varieties of materials

Before making a stone fence with your own hands, you need to choose the material for the future fence. The following types of raw materials are suitable for construction:

  1. Coarse gravel or pebbles. An inexpensive fence stone, however, the construction process will be laborious due to its small size.
  2. Sandstone. Perfectly tolerates any temperature. This material has good moisture resistance.
  3. Cobblestones and boulders. Very affordable and cheap materials. Cobblestones can even be found in nature and shattered into suitable pieces.
  4. Limestone. Easy to process. A significant disadvantage is insufficient moisture tolerance. In order for limestone to serve reliably and for a long time, it is treated with a special composition - an insulator.
  5. Dolomite. Such samples are mined in the mountains, so they are not too cheap. At the same time, dolomite is a very popular material, famous for its durability and attractive appearance.
  6. Fake diamond. Effectively competes with natural samples. You can easily select the material of the desired color and suitable structure. Therefore, a fence made of such specimens is no less popular than a natural stone fence.
  7. Booth. The material is from large stones and looks very interesting.
  8. River stone. This material is quite popular because it looks very original and is miniature in size. Small neat fences can be made from it.

Required tools

Before proceeding directly to the construction, you need to purchase material or get a wild stone and acquire tools for work. You will need:

  • container for mixing mortar or concrete mixer;
  • sand and crushed stone for mixture preparation;
  • cement (marking 300);
  • shovel;
  • master OK;
  • fittings;
  • nails and boards;
  • welding machine (if a high fence is planned);
  • pipe with a diameter of 50-80 mm;
  • roulette;
  • twine and stakes.

Construction process

Before you start laying a stone fence, you need to think about personal safety. Work should be performed in protective boots and heavy gloves. If you need to split a stone, you should wear special glasses. You can prepare antibacterial agents and bandages in advance.


A stone fence will serve you for many years

Building the foundation

First you need to dig a trench. Its size should be equal to the length and width of the future stone fence. This may require a shovel, and in some cases even a crowbar. The depth of the trench is selected individually, but it makes no sense to make it more than 700 mm. The earth from the excavated recess does not need to be thrown away; it will be useful for filling the edges of the finished foundation.

Next, you need to put together the boards for the desired structure. The rods are welded in the same shape and placed in a trench. You need to drive in stakes throughout the size. From above, after 1.5-2 meters, cross beams should be nailed. This action is necessary so that the boards do not diverge when pouring.

Concrete is poured into the finished structure. To prepare the solution, you need to follow this ratio: 1 part of cement will require 2 parts of sand and 4 parts of crushed stone. The components are placed in a concrete mixer and mixed.

After the composition has already been prepared, you can pour it into a container and spread it around the perimeter of the fence with buckets. But you can make it much easier and pour the mixture into the formwork using a gutter. The concrete mixer must be moved with each batch.

You also need to mark the points for the pillars. In each, the pipe should be welded to the fittings. It is worth paying attention to the fact that the height must be made "in reserve".

After all work with concrete is completed, the finished structure should be left to dry for 15-20 days. In order for the solidification to pass efficiently and evenly, you need to place a film (insulator) on top of the formwork. If this is not done, the top will dry out too quickly and the foundation will be less effective.

Frequently novice builders make the same mistake at this stage of construction. The foundation must not be poured flush with the ground. Melted snow and rain will accumulate along the fence and erode the soil. Mold may form. The foundation should be made slightly above the ground level, after which the edges should be sprinkled with a small layer of decorative rubble (earth) or concrete should be decorated.

Erection of pillars

Construction begins with determining the distance between the posts. If it differs, you can gently stretch or pull the pipes with a string. The pillars need to be made a little more spans so that the wall is externally divided into separate sections.

The formwork is made in the form of a square with the desired column width. Its height should not be more than 40-50 cm. When everything is ready, a layer of stones should be laid out parallel to the plane of the boards. Then the cavities must be filled with a thick composition. The mortar directly for the fence is made according to this recipe: 1 part of cement and 1.7 parts each of sand and gravel. It is important to check that all the holes between the stones are filled with the mixture, but the composition itself should not flow down the pillar.

This procedure must be done with each pillar and let the structure harden, leaving it for a day or two. With formwork, it is possible to greatly simplify the work. In order not to collect a new square each time, you can simply drive another one to the bottom row. When the height becomes the desired level, it is necessary to start laying the walls.

Fence wall masonry

The wall can be built using different technologies. Many professionals pull the string. It serves as a guide for the deflection and height of the fence. First, one layer of stones is laid along the entire perimeter of the fence, and all the cracks are filled with the composition. After a day, the second layer is made, etc. This is quite convenient, but there is a possibility of laying a curved wall, so it is best to use formwork.

If large rounded stones are laid out, the use of formwork will not give the desired result. In this case, it is necessary to impose elements on the "eye".

The formwork should be similar to the posts, but it is possible not to put stones as much as possible on the boards. Slight irregularities are acceptable - they give the fence a natural look. After the first layer is laid out, the stones must be covered with the composition and left to dry for 1-2 days.

Excessively high formwork should not be made, this will lead to the formation of voids. The construction will not be durable and of high quality. Seams should be driven in with a trowel.

In order for the height of the spans to be identical, closer to the end of the work they should be measured with a tape measure. If there is any inaccuracy, the volume of the stones must be varied. After completing the procedure for laying and dismantling the formwork, it is worthwhile to join the joints so that the composition does not harden more than necessary.

Joining the fence

After the pouring has been done, you need to take a break for about 5 hours, and then start jointing. All residues of the composition should be removed with a hard brush. Then you need a scraper - a tool that looks like a rectangle and has a protrusion equal to the required seam width.

To make the fence look natural and voluminous, it is better to make deep seams. If the effect of the whole space is required, then the indentations should be made no more than 2 cm. Joining is done simply, the most important thing is the exact indentations. Professionals advise to treat stones and joints with a solution of hydrochloric acid (maximum 30%) after joining.

Final details

The stone fence is ready. However, the result still looks incomplete. It's all about small details that should decorate the fence. To make the wall look attractive and well-groomed, there are just two steps:

  1. Each post must be fitted with a cap. They can be purchased in the store or made to order from a blacksmith.
  2. The seams can be treated with a waterproof coating, then the fence will be visually divided into spans.

It is not easy to build a fence, but it is absolutely possible. Even a person who has not previously been involved in manual labor is capable of doing such work.

With a lack of finance, you can find the stones yourself, and lay the foundation with your comrades. The most important thing is not to rush. Then the new fence will delight the eye for many years.

Our distant ancestors always knew exactly what kind of fence to build around their home. And this is confirmed by numerous archaeological finds - fragments of stone fences. It is this reliable, durable, time-resistant material that is ideal for fencing modern buildings.

Currently, the construction market offers consumers the widest choice of materials from which the fence of a private house can be built. In order not to get confused in this variety, first determine for yourself what type of materials you prefer. If the choice has stopped at a stone, you must understand what its strengths and weaknesses are.

Advantages of stone for building a fence:

  • strength: resistance to the influence of natural phenomena and to physical stress;
  • availability of certain types of stone (for example, cobblestone);
  • the ability to combine a variety of materials with masonry and create original buildings;
  • a stone fence is very beautiful and increases the status of the owner of the house;
  • a stone fence will serve for many years;
  • fire resistance;
  • environmental friendliness.

Disadvantages of stone for building a fence:

  • labor intensity of construction;
  • higher financial costs in comparison with other materials;
  • the need for a foundation.

Having made the final decision to build a capital fence of stone, you should choose from two of its types. Distinguish:

  • a fence made of natural (natural) stone;
  • a fence made of artificial (decorative) stone.

Stone fence: varieties of natural materials

Natural stone is quite expensive, so it would be useful to inquire what kinds of stone are common in your region of residence and what properties they possess.

Dolomite... It is mined in quarries by blasting. This explains the appearance of the material - plates of various thicknesses and sizes. In the future, dolomite is subjected to additional processing and grinding. The undoubted plus of dolomite is that it can be given absolutely any shape. When erecting a fence made of dolomite, you can choose both arbitrary and geometric masonry.

Granite. It is mined in the form of blocks and plates. The stone has high strength, durability and high water resistance, has a rich color range: black, red-burgundy and white-gray shades. The characteristic granularity of the granite texture is imparted by the inclusion of various minerals. After processing, it can acquire a different texture - from rough (absorbing light) to polished. It is rarely used in the construction of fences due to its very high cost.

Limestone... It is a rock of organic origin, which consists mainly of calcium carbonate. The stone is durable, highly durable, has a homogeneous structure and is easy to work with. However, its use in construction is limited by climatic conditions: at low temperatures and high humidity, it quickly degrades. Limestone is different in structure:

  • marbled (as an intermediate link between limestone and marble);
  • dense (has a fine-grained structure, frost-resistant forms are found);
  • porous - consists of individual spherical limestone grains (the subspecies of porous limestone include shell rock, oolitic and pisolitic rocks, and some others).

Cobblestone... This is the name of a natural stone that has a rounded shape. Cobblestones are usually represented by rocks such as diorite, quartzite and basalt. This type of stone is most often used in the construction of fences and fences. Cobblestone is widespread in our country, has natural strength and good workability. Has an affordable cost compared to other natural stones. Its sizes range from a large potato to the size of a watermelon. Larger cobblestones are called boulders.

Pebbles... It is extremely rarely used independently in the construction of fences due to its very small size. It is a natural stone of a rounded shape, which is formed under the influence of wind and water. Some types of pebbles are produced by crushing and grinding (for example, marble or granite pebbles).

Stone fence: features and varieties of buta

Rubble stone (quarry) is a large, always irregularly shaped fragments of mountains or rocks. The length of the edge of a rubble stone is from 15 to 50 cm. There are rubble by the rock of the stone (limestone, dolomite, cobblestone, sandstone, rarely granite) and by strength (low, medium and high).

The bottle is divided into:

  1. Flagstone (sawn butt). It is a polygonal tile with a rough surface. Its thickness varies from 1 to 7 cm. Slabs up to 2.5 cm thick are convenient for building a fence made of rubble stone.
  2. Bed quarry... It is represented mainly by rocks such as limestone and sandstone. The slabs are more than 7 cm thick.
  3. Torn stone (wild) - usually a three-dimensional polygonal slab. Due to its rough relief surface and richness of colors, torn stone is often used for the construction of various structures, including fences.

Stone fence: varieties of artificial stone

Artificial (decorative) stone for building a fence is gaining more and more popularity due to the fact that it is much more affordable than natural stone. But not everyone can distinguish natural stone from high-quality decorative in appearance.

There are only 3 main types of artificial stone:

  1. Porcelain stoneware... In its production, clay and mineral additives are used, which are pressed under very high pressure, followed by firing. The finished product most of all resembles ceramic tiles. It is durable and resistant to temperature extremes. The external texture varies:
  • glossy;
  • matte;
  • embossed;
  • covered with glaze.
  1. Agglomerates... The main component for their production is polyester resin. Various fillers in the form of stone chips are added to it: granite, marble, limestone. This type of artificial stone is used mainly for decorating furniture and interior items.
  2. Concrete-based artificial stone... In its production, various fillers are used from crumb, pumice, expanded clay, coloring pigments, etc. Such an artificial stone is made in two ways:
  • vibratory casting method (the mixture is poured into molds resembling an imprint of a natural stone, followed by vibration compaction);
  • vibrocompression method (concrete mixture, poured into a mold, is subjected to vibration and a certain pressure).

The method of vibrocompression based on concrete produces the so-called french stone... A French stone fence is easy to manufacture and build. In fact, the "Frenchman" is a hollow wall block. From above it is covered with waterproof materials. Fences made of such artificial stone are quite durable (last 50 years or more), if a high-quality solution was used in their manufacture.

Stages of construction of a fence made of natural stone

Preparatory stage

  • drawing up a plan and estimated estimates;
  • determination of the construction site of the fence;
  • marking the construction site (using a peg, you need to mark the line of the future fence, as well as the gate and wicket);
  • purchase of stone and other building materials (taking into account the exact measurements of the future structure).

Laying the foundation

Natural stone fences are built only on a strip foundation, based on brick or reinforced concrete blocks. This is necessary so that a structure, the weight of which is large, turns out to be reliable and durable. The stages of building a foundation for a stone fence are as follows:

  • dig a trench 35-50 cm wide (15 cm wider than the fence itself) and 70 cm deep (if a fence with a height of more than 2 meters is planned, then the depth is increased in the ratio: 10 cm per 1 m of the fence);
  • determine the location of the support pillars (in increments of 2.5-3 m) and erect them using one of the methods described below;
  • pour crushed stone or sand (3-5 cm) at the bottom of the finished trench;
  • tamp the layer;
  • lay the frame made of reinforcement (with a diameter of 10-14 mm);
  • install the formwork from edged boards (install supports approximately every meter, and lay cross-members on the vertical supports);
  • fill the trench with prepared mortar (cement grade 300, gravel and sand) or brickwork;
  • to protect the foundation from moisture, install a blind area (a kind of sill with a slope from the structure). Water flowing down the blind area will not accumulate at the base of the fence;
  • the foundation should dry for about 2 weeks under the film.

Installation of support pillars

Support pillars for a stone fence are no less important part of construction than the foundation: it is on them that the bulk of the spans will rest. Considering that a natural stone fence is a massive structure, it is better to use concrete support pillars:

  • factory-made ready-made supports;
  • filler supports, which are special forms for pouring mortar;
  • independent production of formwork for support pillars.

Ready-made support posts require significant financial investments. They are installed on a pre-prepared brick base directly into the poured concrete.

Block supports do not require large costs and are easy to build. They come in a variety of sizes, configurations and textures. In addition, it is convenient to conduct a cable for lighting or video surveillance in a construction of block supports.

Installing pillars from a concrete support is simple:

  • string hollow blocks on the reinforcement rods fixed in the foundation;
  • fill the cavity with prepared cement mortar;
  • make sure that the seams between the blocks do not exceed 11 mm;
  • when the solution hardens, the support post is completely ready.

You can also independently erect support pillars for a stone fence in the following way:

  • foundation glasses are poured into the trench (concrete cube with a hole in the middle);
  • reinforcement is installed in the middle and fixed with mortar;
  • a prepared square formwork (height and width 30-40 cm) is installed on top of the foundation glass;
  • inside the formwork, a layer of stones is laid tightly to each other (flat side out). If necessary, the shape of the stones can be corrected with a hammer;
  • stones are poured with cement mortar (1 bucket of cement + 3 buckets of sand + ¼ buckets of glue);
  • actions are repeated up to the selected height of the support pillar (they should be 15-20 cm higher than the spans);
  • ready-made supports are left to dry for 1-2 weeks;
  • for decoration and drainage of precipitation, special caps are installed.

Construction of spans

The laying of spans is the most crucial stage in the construction of a stone fence:

  • a mortar is prepared from cement and medium-sifted sand in a ratio of 1: 3 (it should be thick enough and not spread);
  • if these are stones of relatively small size, then formwork boards are installed between the support pillars;
  • if the stones are large, a guide thread is pulled between the pillars;
  • a solution is placed on the foundation;
  • stones are laid symmetrically on both sides of the span, and the voids between them are filled with mortar;
  • after laying the first row, they give it a day to dry and harden;
  • the laying of stones in the following rows must be necessarily with a dressing (when each upper stone rests on 2 or 3 lower stones, overlapping the seams between the lower stones);
  • for laying the last row, stones must be selected of the same height;
  • on the top row, a coating is made of slabs (70 mm high) or a screed with concrete.

Joining seams

Seams between masonry are divided into deep and shallow. Deep seams add volume to the stone fence. For the jointing procedure, you must have in stock:

  • scraper (a strip of metal 150 mm long, 4 mm thick and 2.5 mm wide, which ends with a "tooth" 20 mm high and 10 mm wide);
  • foam trimming;
  • flat wire brush.

The seams should be opened no earlier than 3-4 hours after laying, until the solution becomes too tight:

  • using a wire brush, masonry and joints are cleaned from excess bonding mortar;
  • the grooves of the desired depth are cleaned with a scraper (the rectangular shape of the grooves will look nice);
  • the process of joining is completed by washing using pieces of foam rubber, a brush and a solution of 30% hydrochloric acid.

Natural stone fence: photo






Artificial stone fence: photo





Construction of a stone fence: video

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"My home is my castle!". But in order to fully implement a competent saying, you should seriously think about a fence - reliable, safe and aesthetically beautiful. How to choose a building material and the construction technology of the structure itself is the first thing that needs to be decided, applying the maximum of creative ingenuity and skills.

It is important to remember, "everything new is well forgotten old." Hundreds of centuries ago, our ancestors knew exactly how to build a carefree and at the same time durable fence. It is the fragments of stone fences that have survived to this day, demonstrating their excellent stable characteristics. And all because the stone is a material of natural origin, the reliability of which has been tested by time. But back to the main point. How to build a stone fence with your own hands?

Construction technology

The technology for the construction of a stone fence provides for:

  • marking the fence;
  • laying the foundation;
  • construction of the fence.

Stone fence foundation

Before starting the construction of the fence, the first thing to do is to make a markup, which includes the creation of a preliminary drawing plan indicating the length and height of the fence, not forgetting about the gate and gates, and then proceed to dig a trench under the foundation. It should be borne in mind that natural stone is a fairly strong and heavy building material, therefore, the foundation must be designed for the appropriate load in order to ensure the strength and reliability of the structure.

As shown in the photo, to build a stone fence with your own hands, it is enough to adhere to 35-40 cm of the width of the trench and 70 cm of depth. When erecting a fence with a height of more than 2 meters, it is recommended to increase the depth of the trench by 10 cm with each meter of the fence. In order to avoid the appearance of cracks in the foundation, it is worth sprinkling the bottom of the trench with rubble or sand 3-5 cm thick and laying the frame from the reinforcement. Having installed the formwork, proceed to filling with mortar.

IMPORTANT! The finished foundation must completely grab, so stone laying must be started after a week.

DIY stone fence

After about 10 days, it is necessary to start the construction of the formwork for the support pillars, after which it is installed on the foundation with fastening to the grillage and the next stage is performed - laying.

To build a stone fence with your own hands, you should use a solution of cement with sand in a ratio of 1: 3. For the purpose of aesthetic decoration, you can use brown pigment: 4 tablespoons of pigment are used for 10 buckets of cement mortar.

The implementation of the masonry is carried out by setting stones with the flat side outward, tightly fitting to each other and correcting the shape with a hammer. During masonry, voids are filled with sand-cement mortar. You should pay attention that this mixture does not fall on the very surface of the stone, and if this happens, wait until it is completely dry and remove with a special metal brush. In no case should water be used, as it can get inside the stone together with the solution and change the color of the natural color of the stone block.

Based on the fact that the speed of construction of a stone fence by specialists is about 35 days per 100 meters, it is necessary to call for help from several assistants, so that the masonry is not subject to solidification. In case of termination of masonry for any compulsory circumstances, it is worth sprinkling it with water before starting work.

It is easy and simple to make a beautiful, and most importantly, a strong and durable fence with your own hands. For this, desire and knowledge will be enough - and you can easily build the fence of your dreams.

The most solid material for the construction of fences and posts for a fence is natural stone; such types as dolomite, large pebbles, rubble, sandstone, large pebbles are suitable. The stones for the posts should be smooth and with an average size of 10-20 cm.

Fence made of wood and stone

Building the foundations

The most common method for making stone pillars is the sliding formwork method. Before starting their laying, it is necessary to make a wooden formwork, twisted with self-tapping screws with internal dimensions of 30x30 cm. Before starting work, remember that the laying of such supports is carried out horizontally and controlled using a level. This construction operation is best done in the summer when the air is dry and, therefore, cement and other mortars can catch and set faster.

Foundation

First, prepare the foundation: dig a trench about 80 cm deep (for freezing the soil) and about 50 cm wide (the width already depends on the width of the pillar itself). The foundation for the stone pillars for the fence is necessary, even at the place where you plan to put the gate - here you also need to dig a trench and fill it with concrete.

Carefully measure the distance from the support to the support, where each of them will be placed, do not forget to release the rods from the reinforcement. The foundation itself must first stand for about three days, and only then can you start laying the fence.

Step by step guide

We offer you a step-by-step guide with the addition of a photo on how to make stone fence posts.


The price of decorative stone for fencing may vary depending on the material. They can be made from both rare and common and available materials. Everything depends on your capabilities and wishes regarding the appearance and execution of the fence. But rest assured that this design will create a great view, highlighting the beauty of your landscape.