A ladder from a profile pipe with your own hands is created by a welded and prefabricated method. For its manufacture, attachment, stationary and other options are considered. For an illustrative example, options for installing a structure in the form of a straight, screw and mobile structure are considered below.

Important details

• To reduce the weight of the profile structure, inserts made of wood, glass, stone and ceramics are used.
• A do-it-yourself ladder made of a profile pipe is made as an addition to the porch, external lift to the attic and indoor installation.
• To create the steps, profiled pipes with a cross section of 5-7.4 cm are used. It is possible to eliminate tremors and vibration by reducing the length of the racks in the spans.
• The slope of the steps is 1: 2 or 1: 2.5, which corresponds to an angle of rise from 30 to 40 degrees.
• A properly designed ladder from a profile pipe with your own hands in the drawings has no more than 18 steps. In the presence of high ceilings, a platform is constructed between marches.
• For convenience, an odd number of steps are created in the march. This allows you to start and end with the same foot.
• The height of the steps is 15 - 21 cm.
• The width of the steps is 30 cm. The smaller the angle of inclination, the wider the treads.

A metal ladder made of a profile pipe with your own hands can have an alternative in the form of two channels. Initially, the support frame is welded, then the frame for the steps. It is placed in two ways:

1. Over the channel;
2. Inside the frame.

In the first version, the corners are welded to the upper flange of the channel. And in the second case, a preliminary fastening of the corners to the inclined beams inside is created. The remaining parts of the frame of the steps are welded to them. Below is a do-it-yourself ladder from a profile pipe in the photo.

Preparation of materials

• Channel 16 (16 cm high, 6.4 cm wide shelf) with a length commensurate with the march. You will need 2 beams.
• Thick-walled profile 4x4 cm. Its quantity is determined by the number of steps. To create a small march, you need 20 linear meters.

Tools for the construction of the march:

• Saw for metal structures (pendulum version).
• Drilling machine.
• Welding.
• Electric drill.

Installation steps:

• An interfloor staircase from a profile pipe with your own hands begins with trimming the stringers to the desired parameters so that after installation they form an emphasis on the floor with the flat side of the cut.
• For a more durable fixation on the floors of the first and second floors, metal beams are laid on the concrete base under the floor surface (you can use a channel with parameters 22 cm). The length of the beams must be greater than the width of the stairs.
• The bearing channels are fastened to the embedded beams. For this, welding is used.

Here you can find out in detail how a ladder is made from a profile pipe with your own hands in the video:

From the profile, blanks are created for rectangular steps.

• The workpieces are mounted on guides and welded to them. To create the reinforcement of the structure, vertical support parts from the same pipe are used.
• To facilitate the device, steel corners can be used instead of a pipe.
• The frame is cleaned and painted to prevent damage to the structure.
• Solid treads are laid on a metal base with further fastening using self-tapping screws. For this, gaps are pre-drilled.
• Supports in the form of pillars are welded on the sides of the guide channels, handrails are placed on top.
• Vertical posts are mounted on the steps. Instead of balusters, horizontal rods or sheet plates such as plexiglass, plastic, veneer, triplex, etc. can serve.

Metal frame for a flight staircase

Work plan:

• Marking and cutting a profile, joining frames under the steps.
• Concreting the structure.
• Installation of stringers;
• Equipping the back of the steps with corners.
• Welding steps together.

Installation instructions:

• The number of steps and their parameters are calculated.
• To create a frame, a 10x10 cm profile and 4x4 cm corners are used. In this case, the pipe is used instead of the channel, as it is characterized by high rigidity.
• Create a pedestal for a shallow structure. At the edge of the platform is the lower starting point of the start of the steps.

Attention! in the case of installing a direct structure, a pedestal is not required, since it is important to take into account the starting points between the floor surfaces of the floors

• This is how the profile pipe is mounted, welded to the lower platform, and at the top with the help of anchors, it is fixed to the wall surface. Then the pre-cut corners are welded.
• The vertical parameters of the corners must have exact parameters, and the horizontal part of the products can protrude beyond the profile.
• A gap is created between the steps and the wall surface for gluing wallpaper.
• A railing is welded to the side of the profile. Usually the installation of the railing is carried out with an indent from the edge of 10 cm. However, this will affect the narrowing of the stairs.

Screw structures

The pipe for creating steps is cut into 22 cm sleeves.

To determine the number of elements, the height of the room is divided by 22 cm, that is, the dimensions of the riser.

A gasket and a console are cut from a steel blank. The gasket is welded to the console, then the formed elements are attached to the pipe parts (10 cm thick).

The steps are placed on the gasket using self-tapping screws. The tightness of the sleeves placed on the pipe should be increased. The formation of distortions and backlashes is excluded. If holes are formed with an inaccurate diameter, seal rings are created.

Then the markings are made and the steps are assembled. It is important to provide for an overlap of close to 5 cm. The length of the circle is not less than the wider part of the steps. All that remains is to assemble a single structure. Gaps are immediately drilled to accommodate future steps. The structure is primed.

Attention! The railing of the stairs can be made of iron, a 4x4 cm profile pipe is used for the posts, and a 2x2 cm pipe is used for the handrails.

Then, wooden handrails can be built on top of the metal. Forging elements are usually used in the railings. The stairs are painted with hammer paint.

After it dries, temporary steps are placed. This requires glued pine panels. They must be varnished. To fix the steps, you will need 32mm wood screws.

Ladder

Structurally, the product looks quite simple. It forms an emphasis with bowstrings on the wall and floor surface. The slope of the structure is 60-75 degrees. The steps are spaced from each other at the same distance of 35 cm. To eliminate sliding properties, tips made of plastic or rubber are put on its supports.

Materials for making:

• Rectangular or circular profile, 2 m long. One rectangular 165 cm profile (for steps). Duralumin pipes with a thickness of 2 mm are usually used.
• Nuts, bolts М8х70, washers.
• Ideally, welding is used. In this case, screw connections are not required.
• 4 plastic or rubber protectors for the bottom of the legs.

To create an attached structure, it is necessary to make a blank of steps. A profile, the length of which is 165 cm, is cut into 5 identical products with a length of 33 cm. Marking is made on two profiles with a length of 2 m. Marks are placed so that there is a gap of 35 cm between them.

Provided that bolts are used to fix the steps to the base, it is important to create clamps from thin strips of metal, provided for bending symmetrically in the shape of the pipes and drilling gaps in them. In this case, an indentation is made from the edge of 1.5 cm. The gaps are made in the pipes by 2 m. This is facilitated by preliminary marking. If welding is used for fixation, this aspect is omitted.

Steps are attached. Plastic or rubber tips are put on the legs.

Stepladders are folding ladders that are indispensable for performing various works in a city apartment, in a private house and in the country. These ladders are comfortable, stable, compact and practical. A do-it-yourself stepladder can be made from scrap materials. The manufacturing process is simple and everyone can do it. At the same time, a self-made step-ladder will not be inferior in functionality and reliability to industrial designs. This article has everything about how to do it: a description of the process and tips.

How to make a ladder with your own hands? First you need to choose the most suitable folding structure model, then choose the material from which the step-ladder will be made with your own hands. In terms of appearance and functionality, these stairs are conventionally divided into three groups:

• Classic.

• Universal. Universal structures are distinguished by the fact that they can also be used as a conventional (attached) ladder structure. Such ladders are divided into folding and telescopic.

• Telescopic models are assembled from several retractable sections, which are securely fixed with hooks or automatic locks (latches). These ladders can be very high.

• Transformer step ladder is a modern, versatile, multifunctional step ladder. The transformer consists of sections that are connected with hinges. The hinges allow you to easily and quickly change the position of the sections and securely fix the selected position. The transformer can easily take the form: a classic model, a ladder with a console, a convenient building platform, a regular (extension) ladder.

Multifunctional transformer step ladder

Construction height

How to determine the correct height of your folding ladder? For this, it is necessary to know the maximum height to which it is necessary to reach from the upper stage of the structure. From this height, they take away their height and 30-35 cm, which will allow you to perform all the necessary actions without touching the ceiling with your head. The stepladder for a standard apartment has a height of 70 to 150 cm. The number of steps depends on the height and can be from 3 to 5 steps. For industrial needs and construction work in a private house, a model with a platform is convenient. A more complex design (transformer step-ladder) allows you to significantly increase the height of the stairs.

Materials for making

As a rule, folding structures are made of wood or metal (aluminum alloy or steel). The choice of material depends on the purpose of such a ladder, its size and the load that it must withstand.

Stepladders made of light and durable aluminum alloys are very popular. If you are planning to make a transformer, then you should pay attention to aluminum materials. Structures can be assembled from one type of material, or you can combine several different ones. For example, a garden folding ladder or a reliable stepladder for construction and repair work can be made from steel pipes (posts) and wood (steps).

The best option for making a ladder is an aluminum profile or pipe. Of course, you can make a stepladder for the house and from wood. This is the simplest and most affordable option. But it is worth considering that for such work you need to use high-quality, well-dried wood.

Timber constructions

The first thing to do is to develop drawings of the future wood structure. It is necessary to clearly imagine what kind the step-ladder will have, to determine its configuration, basic parameters. While working on the drawings, they are also determined with the choice of fasteners and materials that will be needed to make the stairs. A full-fledged transformer from wood, as a rule, is not made.

For the bowstring of a wooden step-ladder, beams are used (about 5x5 cm), for the steps - a board (3-4 cm thick). It is necessary to mark and cut off the bowstring beams of the required length. They must match the height of your ladder.

Important! To ensure the stability of the structure, the lower ends of the wooden beams are cut at an angle of approximately 30 degrees.

The next stage is the manufacture of rungs (steps). The number of steps is calculated taking into account the total height of the ladder and the optimal distance between the rungs. The standard step for climbing / descending is a step of 35 cm, approximately this distance should be between steps. It is worth considering that almost all models of stepladders have a peculiarity: they taper from bottom to top. The length of the first (lower) step should be approximately 65 cm, the upper one - no more than 35 cm. The dimensions of the steps will have to be adjusted during the manufacture of the ladder. After preparing the steps of the required size, it is advisable to number them on the reverse side.

If an additional platform is provided in the staircase design, then it is made of the same material as the steps. The second half of the stepladder (supporting) is also assembled, only instead of steps to increase strength, crossbeams are used, nailed across or diagonally (different options are possible here).

To securely connect all parts of a wooden structure, bolts are used, and to ensure the mobility of its parts - hinges, to fix the position - spacers or limiters.

Installation is started by connecting the bowstring and crossbars. For this, self-tapping screws are screwed into the ends, at the points of fastening of the steps. All joints must be treated with wood glue. The steps must be parallel to the floor plane when the ladder is unfolded. If the stairs have a platform, then an additional support is mounted. The movable halves of the ladder are connected by hinges. A travel stop must be provided. Fix it at two ends. The limiter provides stability and reliability of the wooden structure.

Making a wooden ladder with your own hands

If the steps are attached with glue, then to increase the strength of the structure, the bowstrings are pulled together with metal rods. They are placed under the steps: below (under the first step), in the middle, above (under the upper step).

To protect against decay, the wooden elements of the ladder must be covered with an antiseptic compound that creates a water-repellent film. You can also varnish the product without affecting the metal parts of the structure.

Metal constructions

A metal step ladder can be made from pipes or profiles. When working with metal, great care must be taken and all sharp edges must be carefully processed after cutting.

Advice! To protect hands and feet from injury during operation of a folding metal structure, you can use special plastic or rubber plugs.

Metal products can be collapsible (detachable connections are used for installation) or monolithic (welded). A welded joint is usually used for a steel structure made of pipes and angles.

To make a metal step ladder, you will also need a drawing. When working out the design of a metal ladder, it is worth making one part of it longer, which will allow you to form comfortable handles on top and facilitate fastening of the hinges without compromising the strength of the structure. A rectangular metal profile is the best option for installing a folding ladder. But a product made of steel pipes and corners turns out to be quite heavy, which is not very practical, especially for home use.

To make a stepladder, you will need a metal profile (section about 20x40 mm). The profile length must correspond to the calculated ladder height. After cutting all the necessary parts, be sure to carefully finish the edges. The necessary holes for bolted connections are drilled in the metal. The hinges are installed in the same way as in wood products. As a limiter, you can use a pipe segment secured with movable metal bolts.

It is advisable to provide special anti-slip pads on the steps of a metal structure. Now you know how to make a ladder that best suits your needs.

Making a metal stepladder with your own hands (Option 1)

Making a metal step ladder with your own hands (Option 2)

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A ladder made of a profile pipe - 2 of the best options for home and summer cottages

Square or rectangular hollow metal pipes have long become almost the main material for the construction of light frame structures in private construction. A custom-made ladder made of a profile pipe, which is familiar to everyone, is made at almost every summer cottage.

To weld it from the pieces of material left after the construction of the fence or gazebo, you don't need a lot of mind, welded the crossbars between the guides and use it. Today I will talk about the calculation and assembly of more complex marching and screw structures from the same profile pipe.

What you need to know when calculating any staircase

The calculation of a ladder from a profile pipe is not much different from the calculation of similar structures made of wood or concrete. Such calculations cannot be called too complicated, the instruction is standard, but you should not neglect the stage of drawing up a drawing, or at least a sketch of a sketch, with a calculation of all sizes and angles.

Calculation of the marching structure

Marching is called rectilinear structures that do not have smooth bends or turns. There are still staircases with an intermediate turning platform, and if all marches that join them are straight-line, then such structures are also referred to as marching.

• You should start by measuring the height of the future flight of stairs. This is the easiest way to do this. The march height is understood as the distance between the floor of the lower and upper floors. In other words, you need to add the thickness of the interfloor to the height of the ceilings;
• In order to make it convenient to walk on your stairs, you need to clearly calculate the dimensions of the tread and riser. A tread is understood as the platform on which we put our foot, and the riser is the vertical distance between the treads. In both cases, there is a comfortable range of operation, so for a tread it lies within 200 - 400 mm, and for a riser 150 - 200 mm;

• But it is equally important to maintain the correct ratio between the selected values. There are also a couple of formulas to calculate this ratio. I like A + B \u003d 470 mm more (“A” is the height of the riser, “B” is the size of the tread). In addition to it, there is another formula 2A + B \u003d 640 mm, to be precise, it is not exactly 640 mm, but from 600 mm to 640 mm;
• The minimum width of a stationary home span starts at about 800 mm;
• When you calculate the tread and riser dimensions that are suitable for yourself, you can already calculate the number of steps (the height of the span divided by the height of the riser) and the horizontal distance from the beginning to the end of the span (the number of steps multiplied by the size of the tread);

With a ceiling height of more than 2.5 m, the horizontal distance (along the floor) from the beginning to the end of the march starts from about 5 m. For small spaces, it makes sense to build a turntable with a 90º or 180º turn.

• Now we need to find out the most important thing. What will be the size of the future stringer from a profile pipe. Here the Pythagorean theorem will help us. For those who have a little forgotten, I remind you that the square of the hypotenuse should be equal to the sum of the squares of the legs (a² + b² \u003d c²). We have two legs, this is the height of the march and the horizontal size, it remains only to calculate the hypotenuse, which, in fact, is our kosour from the profile pipe;
• There is one more point that must be taken into account when calculating this is the angle of inclination of the march. So, according to SNiP, for stairs in residential premises, this angle ranges from 23º to 37º. If less, then this is already a ramp, and if more, then you get tired of climbing such steps.

So that you fool yourself less with all the calculations, in the table below I have collected the most common parameters of direct marching structures:

In calculations, it is extremely rare to get integers, convenient numbers. So, it is better to round up the data, so it will be easier for you to work in practice.
And the error that remains is compensated for by the height of the first stage. Believe me, if it is a little smaller, no one will even notice.

Calculation of a spiral staircase

The choice in favor of a spiral staircase is most often made due to a lack of space, although in some cases this decision is caused by the original idea of \u200b\u200bthe designer. The price of such work from professionals is an order of magnitude higher, so it makes sense to calculate and assemble the supporting frame of the stairs from the profile pipe with your own hands. Moreover, this is not much more difficult than working with a direct march.

As in any business, there are 2 ways here, for the lazy and for the persistent. If you don't want to mess around with calculations, then you can use the spiral staircase calculator, of which there are now enough on the network. And for those who are persistent, I will tell you further how this is done manually.

First, let's figure out the parameters and designations. By the way, the same designations are used in most electronic calculators.

• "H" is the vertical height of the structure. That is, the height of the ceiling, plus the interfloor overlap;
• "Н¹" - turn-to-turn distance. This should be understood as the distance from the step you are standing on to the step above you. Naturally, this parameter should not be less than the average human height, about 185 cm;
• "H" - the height of the tread, this is what we called the riser in the flight staircase;
• "H¹" - the size of the tread or the depth of the step, as you like;
• "R" - outside radius along the edge;
• "R¹" - the working radius or the one along which a person will climb the stairs;
• "R" is the radius of the central support.

• Along the line of the working radius, the tread depth should be in a comfortable range for a person, it is the same as in the case of linear flights of 200 - 400 mm;
• The tread width next to the central support must be at least 100 mm;
• The minimum span width is 1m, but if you are not going to make a railing, then this value increases to at least one and a half meters;
• In spiral staircases, the risers are usually left open, this is much more convenient. Compared to marching structures, a slightly larger variation in the riser height of 120 - 220 mm is allowed here.

As in the case of marching structures, you need to start with a preliminary measurement. This includes the outer radius of the structure, the height of the stairs, and where you plan to enter and exit, this is called the angle of rotation of the structure. After that, you can start calculating.

For example, I took fictitious values, you will naturally substitute your own. Let the outer radius "R" \u003d 1000 mm, the height of the structure "H" \u003d 3000 mm, the angle of twisting ω \u003d 360º, that is, the entrance and exit are above each other.

With this data, we can find the working length of the run "L", that is, the size of the ladder along the line of the working radius. It is believed that the working radius is about 2/3 of the maximum. Starting formula L \u003d 2πR¹.

Now we find out the number of steps:

• Let the size of the tread "h¹" be 250 mm, the basic formula n \u003d L / h¹;
• Therefore, 4190/250 \u003d 16.79. The number of steps cannot be fractional, so we round up to 17, in addition, the upper step coincides with the floor level, as a result we get 16 clean steps.

If we take as a minimum (100 mm) the size of the tread at the central pillar, then we can calculate the entire dimensions of the entire tread, only for this we still need to know the length of the structure by the outer radius "Lout".

Lout \u003d 2πR \u003d (2 * 3.14 * 1000) \u003d 6280 mm. Now we substitute everything into the starting formula.

h¹ \u003d (7536/17) \u003d 369 mm

The riser height is calculated here in the same way as in the marching span. The total height "H" is divided by the number of steps "n", so the total is:

h \u003d (H / n) \u003d (3000/17) \u003d 176 mm.

Correction of the ratio of steps is also permissible here and is done according to the same formula as for a linear march, only the designations change slightly.

2h + h¹ \u003d 600… 650 mm. After the correction we get a riser height of 190 mm.

But that's not all. We still need to calculate the size of the top output pad. As you remember, our angle of twisting is 360º, the height of the riser in our case is 190 mm, and the total height is 3000 mm.

In other words, having climbed 4 steps, we will lose the height of 760 mm. If we take into account the thickness of the overlap, then we have about 2m in stock. Therefore, the width of the upper platform should not exceed the width of 4 treads, otherwise tall people will cling to their heads.

Both when designing linear flights, and when calculating a spiral staircase, try to always have an odd number of steps. The fact is that it is subconsciously more convenient for a person to start and end a movement with one leg.

Assembly of structures

If you cope with the calculations and sketching, it will not be difficult for you to mark the pipes for the future staircase. Therefore, we will go directly to the question of how to weld a ladder from a profile pipe.

Theoretically, of course, such a structure can be assembled on studs and bolts, but, not counting the complications in the calculations, the time and effort for assembling this ladder will take at least 3 times more.
Plus, this option is not considered absolutely reliable, since the bolts tend to unwind during operation. Therefore, I advise you not to get involved with such models.

We collect the marching span

Linear marching structures can be of two types: a staircase based on a powerful flat profile pipe and various structures with broken stringers.

It is much easier to design and cook the first option with a solid, straight pipe and it takes much less time, but the price of such a structure is slightly higher. This is due to the fact that as a base you will have to buy a square profile with a minimum section of 100x100 mm, although I advise you to take from 150x150 mm. These ladders are much more reliable and look better.

In addition, the sites on which the treads will be attached should not be more than half of these treads. Consequently, additional metal sheets with a thickness of 3 - 4 mm will have to be welded, and such an amount of thick high-quality metal will inevitably lead to an increase in the cost of the project.

As you understand, on a flat inclined pipe, horizontal treads will need to be fixed somehow. Therefore, you will have to weld on the platforms. They can be done in two ways.

1. After we have calculated the angle of inclination of the pipe and marked the places of attachment of the steps, pre-cut metal sheets are horizontally welded to the base, along the entire width of the profile pipe, and wooden treads will subsequently be screwed onto them. But naturally, one horizontal seam cannot withstand such a load, therefore, props will have to be welded between the sheet and the pipe. These can be metal plates, pieces of reinforcement or shaped pipes of a smaller section. As you can see, nothing complicated, but to be honest, this option does not look very nice;
2. I like the second option more, it is simpler and looks more aesthetically pleasing.... The supports for the platforms are here cut from the base profile pipe and sheets under the tread are already welded onto them. To do this, mark a cut on it at a calculated angle, take a grinder and. From the side, such a cut will look like a triangle, and from the front side it has the shape of the letter "P". Further along our cut, we weld this support to the base pipe. The diagram shows both options.

Since the entire structure will actually be based on one pipe, the weight there turns out to be serious and there will be a colossal point pressure at the junction of the profile pipe with the floor.

In order to distribute it evenly over a larger area and to insure against the lateral overturning of the stairs, it is necessary to weld metal plates with a thickness of 5 mm or more to the base of the pipe and the fixation point to the floor. The dimensions of such plates should be slightly larger than the step area.

Now let's look at the assembly of a staircase based on a broken version of the kosour. In addition to cost, such designs are good for their low weight. After all, they use pipes of a much smaller section.

It is believed that the optimal size is 40x60 mm. More is possible, less is not desirable.

Here, as in the case of a straight stringer, you can cook in two ways:

1. According to the first method, the profile pipe is cut into separate sectors corresponding to the size of the treads and risers, plus a margin for the thickness of the pipe. After that, all these pieces are welded together into a finished kosour. It sounds simple in theory, but in practice there are too many welding works and it is not a fact that you will be able to weld everything exactly everywhere;
2. According to the second option, everything turns out much more elegant and faster.... The point is to cut out sectors in the form of isosceles triangles from a straight pipe with a grinder, while only one wall remains solid. After that we bend the pipe and weld the joint. How it looks, I depicted on the diagram.

As for the plates for the support points, then for a profile pipe with a section of 40x60 mm, it is enough to weld squares of about 200x200 mm and fix them on 4 anchors. Although, if possible, of course, it is better to connect two or more broken kosour on a single monolithic plate.

Assembly of the screw structure

Installation here begins with the installation of a central supporting round and preferably thick-walled pipe. The load on it will be serious and here the savings can go sideways. As I already said, the cross-section of the pipe starts from 100 mm, this is the minimum tread width at the base.

Naturally, the pipe itself from below should be based on a thick, reliable platform. If you are installing a staircase at the construction stage, then in order not to spend money on an expensive thick iron sheet, you can weld a cross from the bottom of the same profile pipes. Then walled up all this in a screed.

The supports themselves under the treads can be made of two types. Both in terms of bearing capacity and aesthetic characteristics, they show little evidence. It all depends on what section of the profile pipe was at hand:

1. If your tube is thin 20x20 mm or 30x30 mm, then it is better to cook the frame around the perimeter of the tread, in a closed loop... In order not to measure each arc separately, you should immediately make a pattern from wooden bars stuffed onto a chipboard sheet. With such a device, you will only have to insert the cut tubes into your mold and "grab" them by welding;

1. With the second option, the hassle is less... But it uses profile pipes with a minimum section of 40x60 mm. There is no need to construct any patterns here. Simply cut the pipe sections along the working radius of the ladder. In the outer end, in the form of the letter "T", weld a piece of the same tube, a little less than the width of the tread, and at the end weld this entire structure to the supporting pipe.

Both in the first and in the second case, one point of fixation on the support is not enough for the step. Therefore, I recommend welding an additional support under the step frame. There is no guarantee that you will be able to weld everything firmly and efficiently, and with a support, the reliability of the step increases significantly.

Finishing work

Most often, the frame of a staircase made of a profile pipe is revetted with natural wood. According to my observations, it is much cheaper, more beautiful and more reliable.

When choosing a board for treading, the most important thing is strength, so its thickness should be at least 40 mm. The thickness of the lining for the risers and the side bowstring, if required, does not really matter, since these parts of the staircase are only aesthetic value.

Do not forget that you are dealing with metal, and it is known to rust. I don't think you are going to spend the fabulous sum on a homemade stainless steel staircase. Therefore, after assembly, you first need to clean up all welded seams with a file or better with a grinder. Then degrease or prime the structure and at the end apply 2 - 3 coats of good paint.

Many people advise powder coating the metal. So, such things as powder painting or nickel-plating of metal can be done exclusively in the factory on professional equipment. At home you can only paint or varnish the stairs.

Conclusion

For self-production, the frame of a staircase from a profile pipe is perfect. It is much easier than building wooden stairs, plus the strength of the metal structure is much higher. The photo and video in this article provides additional material on the manufacture of stairs. If your question remains unanswered or if you have something to add, write in the comments, we will talk.

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

A ladder made of a shaped tube (not a round one) is distinguished by its durability and good wear resistance. Unlike wooden ladders, metal ladders are more durable, although they can be heavier. By themselves, the profile pipes are already heavy, so the weight of the ladder should be monitored during work and try not to make it heavier, but rather to reduce its weight. This can be done using the tips that can be found in this article.

Before starting work, it is necessary to make measurements, according to which the staircase will be built in the future.

What you need to know before work:

1. Dimensions of the staircase;
2. Calculation of the required amount of material;
3. Turning the stairs;
4. Number of steps.

A staircase is a free space in the overlap between the first and second floors. The very first thing to do is calculate the dimensions of this opening.

The amount of material is determined after all measurements, based on an already drawn up drawing.

Turning the stairs is necessary when the dimensions or other features of the room do not allow you to put the stairs straight, without bends at an angle.

It is also important to determine the number of steps on the future staircase. It is convenient to do this, knowing that the length of one step should be about 30 centimeters, the width from 90 to 125, and the distance between the steps comfortable for a person is 15 centimeters. In special cases, the width of the step can reach 180 centimeters, but for such huge stairs, additional fastening is needed.

Also, when calculating, remember that the average step of a person is 60 - 64 centimeters.

Installation of a ladder from a profile pipe: drawing and necessary tools

Without a good blueprint, you cannot make a quality staircase. If you have never dealt with circuits before, then it is better to seek professional help.

What is taken into account when drawing up a drawing:

1. The size of the staircase;
2. Turn, width and height of the stairs;
3. Number of steps.

You can also add future artistic decoration of the stairs here if you plan to embellish it a little.

Calculation of the slope of the steps of the stairs will allow you to design a comfortable and safe structure. About how to choose the angle of inclination of the steps, our next material:.

After you have made the drawing and bought all the materials, you need to prepare all the necessary tools that will be needed in the process.

Tools that come in handy when creating stairs:

1. Welding and electrodes to it;
2. Saw-grinder and discs for working with metal;
3. Perforator, drills;
4. A hammer.

In order not to get confused in a large number of different details in the process of creating a staircase, we advise you to number them.

We prepare the frame of the stairs from the profile pipe: tips

The frame is the basis of the future staircase, so you need to think it over to the end, and then weld it with high quality.

Remember that welding is required in the manufacture of the frame in any case. And that means the ability to handle her. If you do not have such skills, then you will have to resort to the help of a welding master.

The frame base is most often a pipe with a diameter of about 60 millimeters.

Stages of making the frame:

1. Calculate the number of steps, their height and width;
2. Proceed with the installation of the profile pipe. It will be attached to wall anchors, which must first be installed. Additionally, the ladder must be secured on the other side, using tabs.
3. Weld the corners to the pipe. Make sure that their measurements exactly coincide with those specified in the drawing, otherwise the end result will turn out to be of poor quality, and the stairs will be crooked and unsafe.
4. If necessary, a handrail can also be installed at the end of the work.

How to weld a ladder from a profile pipe: further finishing

After you have finished making the frame of the stairs, you need to proceed to its further decoration.

What needs to be done after installing the frame:

1. Make steps;
2. Install the railings;
3. Decorate the stairs if required.

Note that a ladder made of a shaped pipe is a heavy structure in itself. Therefore, you can lighten the weight a little by making the steps not from heavy metal, but from light wood.

With the right approach, the combination of a metal frame and wooden steps will create an additional high cost effect.

Railings can also be made of wood, but remember that the wood must be of good quality. As a rule, oak, beech or ash species are used in the manufacture of stairs.

You can decorate the stairs at the final stage. For example, if you have chosen the option with a wooden railing, then you can resort to artistic carving or burning.

Staircase to the second floor from a profile pipe: advantages and disadvantages

After you have familiarized yourself with the process from a profile pipe, it is worth thinking about the advantages and disadvantages of such a design.

Advantages of a ladder made of a shaped pipe:

1. Good strength and wear resistance;
2. Long service life;
3. Relatively fast production time;
4. You can create a staircase from a profile pipe alone, without resorting to the help of masters;
5. Possibility to create stairs of any shape;
6. The price for the necessary materials is low.

As you can see, there are really many advantages to such a staircase. Its service life is noticeably longer than that of a wooden one, and it is not as heavy as a stone one. However, there are also disadvantages.

Disadvantages of a ladder made of a profile pipe:

1. The metal frame weighs quite a lot, especially if the stairs are large. Because of this, when finishing the stairs, you have to use materials such as wood and plastic.
2. In order to create such a ladder, skills and experience in working with a welding machine are needed.

Do not forget that the ladder must be periodically treated with an anti-corrosion coating.

How to assemble a ladder from a profile pipe with your own hand (video)

A ladder made of a shaped pipe is heavy and requires additional periodic processing. But the price for its manufacture is noticeably lower than for other types of stairs, and the service life is higher. Properly made homemade designs will last a long time.

Reliable ladder from a profile pipe (photo of structures)

When designing any metal structures, the question arises - what kind of rolled metal and what section should be used to ensure the reliability of the structure under the influence of the expected loads. You can find methods of accurate calculations or use software resources that allow you to calculate almost any structure. However, this is almost always within the power of only professionals who know how to use software that knows the technology of production of metal structures and have an idea about metal rolling.

Very often, when designing small and not complex objects, for example, stairs to the second floor, one has to choose from experience, as they say "by eye" to choose rolled metal. In order to somehow justify your choice, and at the same time instill confidence in yourself and in the customer, we offer a variant of the simplest ("for beginners") calculation.

Let's say we need to build the metal frame of the stairs to the second floor.

Let it be: the length of the stairs is 3m. , tilt angle 30 0, assumed load: 200kg. - weight of the structure and 500kg. - additional load. It is necessary to select a profile pipe for the supporting beam (bowstring)

The calculation is carried out with a certain degree of approximation. Figure 1 shows a diagram of a ladder beam,

Fig. 1 where:

L - beam length,

q - angle of inclination of the stairs

In our case: F \u003d 500kg.

L \u003d 300cm.

q \u003d 30 0

P \u003d 200kg.

For simplicity of calculation and, taking into account that in the end the staircase to the second floor will be quite rigid, allowing the distribution of loads, the existing scheme (Fig. 1) will be reduced to a scheme with a uniformly distributed load,

Fig. 2 where: b is the horizontal component of the beam,

For our case: b \u003d L * cos q \u003d 300 * cos 30 0 \u003d 260cm.

Q \u003d F + P \u003d 500kg. + 200kg. \u003d 700kg.

G \u003d Q / b \u003d 700kg. / 260cm. \u003d 2.7kg / cm.

Under the influence of loads, the pipe will begin to bend. In case of minor deflections after the removal of the load, the pipe will return to its original state. If the load exceeds the permissible value, deformation (irreparable deflection) of the pipe may occur. In order to avoid deformation, it is necessary to compensate the bending moment (arising from the action of the load) by the moment of resistance of the pipe In our case, the formula for the bending moment:

M \u003d q * b 2/8 substituting the data we get: M \u003d 22815kg.cm.

The moment of resistance of a pipe depends on the material of the pipe (ladder beam) and is calculated by the formula:

W \u003d M / R, where: R is the calculated resistance of the metal

pipes, for steel St.3 - R \u003d 2100.

Substituting the values M and R , we get that W \u003d 10.86 cm3

The moments of resistance of profile pipes are calculated and summarized in tables, which can be found in the relevant Internet topics. According to the tables, we need to take pipes from which W more than that obtained in our calculations (\u003e 10.86). The moment of resistance is greater than the value of 10.86 for pipes 70x70, 80x80, etc. If we take a pipe 50x100, then on the side 100W \u003d 24cm3, i.e. almost two and a half times more than in our calculation. Thus, for the beam (bowstring) of our stairs to the second floor, a profile pipe 50x100 is quite suitable. Rolled metal for load-bearing elements of stairs should be taken with a three to fivefold margin of possible loads. Additionally, it is necessary to check the deflection of the beam (bowstring, ladder stringer). In the case of a uniformly distributed load, the deflection is determined by the formula:

f \u003d 5 Gb 4/384 EI where: f - maximum deflection

G - evenly distributed load

b - horizontal projection of the beam

E - modulus of elasticity (tabular data)

I - moment of inertia (tabular data).

For our case G \u003d 2.7kg / cm., b \u003d 260cm., E (for steel St.3) \u003d 20.4 * 10 5 kg.cm 2 (reference data), I (for a pipe 50x100) \u003d 137cm. 4 (tabular data). Eventually:

f \u003d 0.6cm.

The deflection is insignificant, but at the beginning they simplified the task and led it to the variant of a uniformly distributed load. In reality, the load will be concentrated and the deflection can be three times more. On the other hand, we will calculate only one beam (bowstring, kosour). If we take the classic version with two, for example, kosour, then the deflection will again decrease. In general, if deflection is not allowed, then you should make supports, connect several pipes or look for others options.

In conclusion, it must be emphasized that we did not try to make accurate calculations, but tried to prove that pipes 40x80 or 50x100 used in the construction of stairs are quite correct.