How to lay a metal tile on the roof with your own hands. The technology of laying metal roof tiles

Metal - a reliable and durable roofing. High corrosion resistance of this material is ensured through the use of high quality raw materials (galvanized steel from leading manufacturers) and special polymer coatings. In the company "Stroymet" you can buy. We also have roofing materials from other well-known manufacturers from Russia and Finland.

Additional elements of a metal tile Grand Line

Fixes sheets of metal on the ends of roof slopes, preventing the weakening of fasteners. Protects the structure from wind and precipitation.

Upper endova level

A decorative element that closes the joint between the slopes at the inner corners of the roof.

Lower valley

Provides removal of precipitation at the junctions of adjacent slopes.

Prevents uncontrolled descent of snow from roof slopes. Protects gutters, as well as the area adjacent to the building from additional snow load.

It closes the joint of adjacent roof slopes, preventing atmospheric precipitation from entering the under-roof space.

Mounted in the end of the ridge.

Protects the windshield and other wooden elements of the rafter system located in the lower part of the eaves overhangs from the negative effects of moisture.

  Adjacency bar

It is installed at the joints of roof slopes with vertical structures (walls, chimneys).

Basic requirements when working with metal

Shipping

To avoid damage, the sheets must be fixed in the car body. At the same time, they should be fully placed in the body along the length (otherwise, excesses are possible on the overhang line). The optimal mode of movement of the vehicle: speed not exceeding 80 km / h, without sudden acceleration and braking.

Loading and unloading

They can be made manually or using special equipment (forklift trucks, cranes with soft slings). Packages are unloaded on a flat, clean, dry surface. The number of personnel during manual unloading depends on the length of the sheets (1 person per 2 linear meters, but at least 2 people per 1 sheet). Carrying is carried out in vertical position. It is forbidden to drag sheets on the ground and other surfaces.

Sheets of metal are stacked using wooden bars (stacked at the base of the stacks) and battens (stacked between sheets). If storage is carried out in an open area, it is necessary to ensure a slight slope of the sheets along the length for water flow. In the immediate vicinity of the storage location, welding is prohibited, as well as other operations that can damage the surface of the metal tile.

Safety precautions

To avoid cuts on the sharp edges of the metal tile, personnel should wear protective gloves. In the process of lifting sheets to the roof and their installation, it is necessary to use safety equipment. It is forbidden to carry out high-altitude work in difficult weather conditions (with strong winds, rain, hail, snowfall).

Fasteners

To fix the sheets of metal, stainless steel screws with a polymer gasket are used. Approximate consumption - 6-7 screws per 1 sq. m

Tools for mounting a metal tile Grand Line

Note!  When cutting metal, it is forbidden to use angle grinders with abrasive wheels. Violation of this requirement can lead to intense corrosion of products (due to damage to the zinc layer and polymer coating).

Roofing Cake Structure

Modern roofs consist of several layers that perform various functions. Reliability and durability of the roof is ensured through the use of high-quality materials and the correct installation of the Grand Line metal tiles. If at least one element is improperly installed, this will lead to a sharp decrease in the service life of the entire structure. According to the experience of the specialists of the company "Stroymet", violation of the requirements regarding installation, entails the accumulation of moisture in the insulation (because of this, its operational characteristics are significantly impaired), as well as the destruction of wooden and metal parts (due to decay and corrosion).

  1. Metal tile.
  2. Crate.
  3. Waterproofing.
  4. Rafter leg.
  5. Counter grill.
  6. Vapor barrier membrane.
  7. The first board of the crate.
  8. Gutter bracket.
  9. Windshield.
  10. Drip.
  11. Cornice strip.
  12. Perforated ventilation tape.

Heat insulation installation

Stacked between the elements of the rafter system. To keep it better, it needs to be cut with a small margin in width (1-1.5 cm). Installation should be organized in such a way as to completely eliminate the likelihood of moisture entering the insulation layer.

Installation of steam-waterproofing films and membranes

Insulating materials are laid on both sides of the truss structure: outside - waterproofing, inside - vapor barrier. Laying is done horizontally, from bottom to top, with an overlap of 15-20 cm.

Standard waterproofing is mounted with 2 3-5 cm ventilation gaps:

  • between the film and the insulating layer;
  • between the film and the roofing.

The superdiffusion membrane is mounted with 1 gap (between the membrane and the roofing). The second gap is not needed, since the operational characteristics of the membrane allow it to be laid directly on top of the thermal insulation layer.

When installing a vapor barrier, a gap is required between the film and the inner lining. The overlapping lines of adjacent rows of film are sealed with sealing tape.

Installation of brackets for the drainage system

Brackets designed to fix the gutter are mounted in such a way as to provide a slight slope of the structure towards the drainpipes. The vertical displacement parameters are determined by the formula: h \u003d 0.005 x L (L is the distance between the extreme hooks). Previously, the brackets are numbered and marked according to the specified offset. Correct installation of long brackets is possible only before laying the roofing. The design of the short brackets allows you to fix them on the windshield at any stage of roofing.

Installation of the lathing

The lathing is usually made of wooden boards and bars. They must first be dried and treated with fire and bioprotective compounds.

A drip is mounted in the lower part of the eaves overhang, designed to drain water and condensate into the gutter.

The first board of the crate should be thicker than the rest (the wave height of the metal tile is added to the standard thickness). The recommended distance between the lower edge of the first board and the middle of the second is 30 cm, from the center to the center of the remaining elements of the crate - 35 cm.

A solid crate is mounted next to the ridge, in the valley of the valley, in the places where the snow retainers are installed, along the perimeter of the chimneys.

Installation of cornice strips

The eaves strip protects the windshield from moisture and pollution. Using self-tapping screws, a ventilation tape is attached to the ends of the counter rails and the first board of the crate.

Installation of the lower endova slats

Joints of adjacent slopes experience increased operational loads. Therefore, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe valley, a continuous crate is installed and a special sealant is mounted. Endova planks are mounted from the bottom up (starting from the cornice plank) with an overlap of 30 cm.

Installation of the bypass around the perimeter of the chimney

The waterproofing film is displayed on the surface of the pipe (overlap of at least 5 cm) and fixed with a self-adhesive tape. Then, abutment strips are mounted around the perimeter, which are inserted with the upper side into the strobes made in the outer wall of the pipe (the recommended depth is 1.5 cm). After this, a drainage is made (to the nearest plank of the valley or to the eaves overhang).

Before mounting the Grand Line metal tile, a lifting structure is mounted from wooden boards and bars on which the sheets are fixed. After that, the metal tile, together with the structure, gently rises to the roof. During the lifting process, personnel must use safety equipment.

Installation of a metal tile Grand Line

To avoid damage to the sheets, work must be carried out in shoes with soft soles (sports or special), and you can only step in the deflection of the wave.

Laying is made from bottom to top. The lower edge of the sheets is 5 cm beyond the ledge and carefully aligned along the entire length of the ramp.

Before starting installation of the Grand Line metal tile, it is recommended to install a lightning rod.

  • The sheets are attached to the deflections of the waves in places of tight fit to the boards of the crate.
  • The metal tile is attached to the first board of the crate through the wave, above the step.
  • Sheets are attached to other boards under the steps (as close to them as possible).
  • At the edges of the slopes (at the gables), each step is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Roof Through Exits

To ensure the tightness of the through exits, Stroymet experts recommend the use of self-adhesive tape and silicone sealant.

Dormer windows

Installation is carried out in the following order:

  • lower plank of the valley (carried below the pediment of the dormer window construction);
  • roofing;
  • upper plank of the valley (it is recommended to install a special sealant before installation).

Installation of end plates

The strips are mounted from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm (the recommended step between the screws is 30-35 cm).

Mounting the upper valley

It is carried out after laying the universal seal. Allows you to hide the possible roughness of the cut sheets at the junction of adjacent slopes.

Installation of abutment strips

In places where metal tiles adjoin vertical elements to ensure effective waterproofing, a polymer sealant is necessarily laid. Planks are fixed with roofing screws.

Mounting the ridge

The plank of the ridge is fixed through the wave with special ridge screws (they are longer in comparison with the standard ones). Pre-installed throughout the ridge self-adhesive ventilation tape. At the ends of the ridge, plugs are installed.

Installation of roof safety elements

In areas where snow retainers, roofing ladders, transitional bridges, fences will be installed, a continuous crate is always installed.

Snow retainers are installed at the bottom of the ramp (but above the eaves overhang, otherwise they may not be able to cope with the snow load).

Fasteners should fall not only into the crate, but also into the elements of the rafter system.

Framing overhang

As materials for sheathing, plastic or corrugated board can be used.

At the same time, it is necessary to ensure a good level of ventilation of the under-roof space (Vilpe valves are usually used for this).

According to the specialists of the Stroymet company, vinyl spotlights are the best solution for filing curtain overhangs. Their installation is carried out using wooden blocks and additional elements (J-profile and J-bevel). Perforated spotlights help maintain a comfortable air circulation in the under-roof space.

Installation options for brackets for gutters


The drip is used to drain condensate from the waterproofing film (connected to it with double-sided tape).

Ventilation tape - prevents clogging of the under-roof space, helps to improve air exchange. It is fixed with self-tapping screws.

After-sales care

Upon completion of the installation of the Grand Line metal tiles, all debris (metal scraps, shavings, consumables, etc.) must be removed from the roof surface. In case of detection of micro-scratches on the sheets of Grand Line metal tiles, it is recommended to apply special paint on them. This will not only make damage invisible, but also prevent corrosion.

The order of installation of drains

  1. The gutter is marked for the installation of funnels.
  2. Holes of the required size are cut out, funnels are mounted.
  3. Caps are attached to the ends of the gutter (rivets and silicone sealant can be used for additional waterproofing).
  4. The gutters are mounted on brackets and connected to each other using special connectors.
  5. Brackets designed to fix the drainpipes are installed on the building facade with a step of 1 m (at least 2 brackets per 1 pipe).
  6. Installation of a gutter riser (pipes, elbows, connecting pipes). The drain elbow should be 20 cm from the ground.
  7. The drain pipe is connected to the funnel, then the structure is adjusted and all brackets and clamps of the riser are fixed.
  8. Primorsky zone (less than 3 km from the sea)

    Solano e30 Granite®HDX Velur® Colority print dp® Polyester Zinc GL Rainwater system Granite Gutter system Aluzinc

    You can familiarize yourself with the terms of providing a company guarantee for Grand Line metal tiles when purchasing at Stroymet's sales offices (for more information, see the warranty cards).

One of the important stages of roof construction is the laying of metal tiles on previously prepared crates. Today's technologies provide a wide range of materials, which makes it possible to quickly and efficiently erect a roof of any complexity. High technology and precision in manufacturing turn the installation of metal into an exciting process that even a layman can perform.

Tools for installation of a roofing system

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the following tool: a tape measure, an assembly knife, a marker, a screwdriver with a nozzle for screws, a cord, screws, a long rail, a hammer, a nozzle on a drill for cutting metal, tools for cutting roofing materials.

The following are tools for cutting the roof: an electric jigsaw, manual lever scissors for metal (straight, left and right), a hacksaw for metal with small teeth, and electric shears (punching).


After cutting the profile, the places of slices must be painted over with a special spray can of paint. This will protect zinc from further corrosion.

Cutting roofing material with an abrasive wheel or grinder is prohibited! With such cutting, not only the polymer coating is broken, but also zinc itself, which in the future will lead to oxidation and corrosion.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

In order to calculate how much material is needed for laying the metal tile, it is necessary to measure the roof and take into account all the elements and protrusions, the number of rows that will be on the future structure. For this, a simple instruction is used, according to which it is easy to calculate the amount of material.

For example, the width of the roof slope is 6 meters. And the useful profile width (indicated by the profile manufacturer) is 1.11 meters (also called the effective length). The number of rows will be (6 / 1.11) \u003d 5.40, which when rounding gives us 5 rows.

The calculation of the length of the sheets and their number is carried out by measuring the length of the slope of the roof from the eaves to the ridge, plus the length of the overhang, which lies in the range of 40-50 mm, plus 150 mm (in the case of several rows), which are minimal with horizontal overlap.

For example, the measured length of the roof slope is 7 meters. Then the required length will be: 7 + 0.05 + 0.15 \u003d 7.2 meters (assuming stacking two sheets in a row).

Almost all manufacturers of metal tiles offer the length of the cut profile to choose the customer. The maximum length does not exceed eight meters, but, as practice has shown, it is most convenient to use sheets no longer than 4-5 meters. Therefore, in our examples above, the installation of metal tiles in two rows was used.

What you need to know when using a roof profile

Before laying metal, you need to know that the implementation of the necessary simple rules will ensure the long-term service of the materials used.

Selection and installation of screws

With the help of galvanized screws, the profile is fastened to the crate. Therefore, the quality of self-tapping screws must be taken seriously, because the service life of high-quality fasteners is commensurate with the service life of a metal tile (30-50 years). To do this, choose special, branded self-tapping screws with the head necessary in color and with a gasket made of EPDM (ethylene-propylene-diene-monomer) - rubber.


They are fastened with a screwdriver or an electric drill with a reverse and a speed switch. If, during installation, accidental damage to the layer of material occurs, it is necessary to apply a masking aerosol spray to the place of damage.

Tightening the screws should be tight enough, but not so as to push through the gasket.

Rules for fixing metal

Before starting installation, all structural elements must be treated with an antiseptic. The technology of laying the metal tile and its fastening begins with lifting one sheet on the roof. Depending on the height of the building, special lifting belts or logs are used, which are located from the ground to the edge of the roof.

When the length of the sheets of metal equal to the length of the slope, the first sheet is aligned at the end and the eaves of the roof. The profile is fastened using roofing screws with EPDM gasket and a colored head. Dimensions 4.8 × 28 mm (in the case of a wooden crate) and 4.8 × 20 mm (for a metal crate). The required length of screws, ultimately, depends on the type of profile and is specified by the supplier of metal.

In the sole of the wave, in places of contact with the crate, the screws are screwed in a checkerboard pattern through one wave. The approximate consumption of self-tapping screws per square meter of the profile is 6-8 pieces.

If the metal tile is laid from left to right, then the edge of the second sheet is laid under the edge of the first and aligned. If from right to left, then correctly lay the second sheet with an overlap on the first. Subsequent profiles must be laid out similarly to the previous ones.

The first sheet is laid on a crate with a spacing of 40-50 mm above the edge of the cornice and fastened with one temporary screw at the edge of the ridge and at the cornice with a self-tapping screw to the crate.

Next, the second profile sheet is mounted. To do this, it is necessary to accurately and tightly join the sheets together with a lateral longitudinal overlap so that there are no gaps and distortions. They are interconnected by 4.8 × 20 mm screws through the top of the wave, under the transverse profile wave. The connection starts from the eaves and to the ridge.

In this way, three to four sheets of metal are joined. A temporary self-tapping screw, installed on the first sheet near the ridge, is unscrewed and the entire block of profiles is aligned with the cornice.

A control measurement of the offset is made on both sides of the block. If the sizes match, it is obvious that the sheet is aligned correctly, and it must be evenly fixed with one self-tapping screw to the crate. The remaining sheets are attached at the joints and to the crate.

After installation, the chips from drilling and cutting must be removed with a soft brush, and the damaged areas should be tinted with special paint.

In the case when the roof slope will consist of several rows, then it is necessary to correctly lay the roof profile according to a different principle. In this case, sheet extension is used in the order shown in the figure below. The installation procedure is determined by the drainage grooves on the longitudinal edges of the metal tile, which are overlapped. When building sheets of metal, they are connected along the roof slope with an overlap of at least 150 mm and the sole of the longitudinal wave is attached to the crate.


The transverse profile of the metal tile is fixed at the end of the transverse wave, or at the bottom of the longitudinal wave above the transverse wave without being fixed to the crate. For this operation, 4.8 × 20 mm self-tapping screws (for metal) are used.

For a hip (tent) roof, installation starts from the highest point and then evenly on both sides according to the principles described above.

The capillary groove of each profile must be covered by the previous stacked sheet.

Skate mount

For the necessary ventilation of the attic space, it is necessary that the profile sheets do not converge under the ridge bar. The skate is attached to the roofing using self-tapping screws at the top of every second wave. At the same time, the overlap of the slats is at least 10 cm in length. The semicircular ridge is mounted on a hip roof using Y-shaped overlays and tent caps.


Mounting the ledge

The cornice strip protects the windshield from precipitation and its further destruction. Planks are laid with 50 mm overlap, galvanized nails, in increments of 300 mm.

Endova Installation

The base planks for the valley are laid flat at the level with the crate. A 20 mm clearance must be observed between the valleys for ventilation. The cornice strip is trimmed and mounted on the corners of the valley.

Next, the profile of the lower valley is established and cut to the shape of the cornice strip. The guides along the valley of the valley are drawn, like the invisible borders of the profile sheets. The recommended minimum distance between the guide lines is 200 mm.


After laying the roof, along the entire length of the plank of the valley for aesthetic beauty, the decorative upper plate of the valley is laid. It is fixed in the upper bend of the wave of metal tile with a step of 300-500 mm.


End plate mounting

The end plate is installed on the end board and fastened to it with screws with a pitch of 1000 mm. The strap is attached to the crate through the top of the roofing sheets, with screws, at a distance of 400-800 mm. At the end of the installation of the end plate, it is necessary that it overlaps the upper crest of the wave.

Technology for installing the ridge and seal

The universal seal is fixed before installing the ridge plate directly. To install it, it is necessary to remove the protective film and stick at a distance of 25 mm from the edge of the ridge in the middle direction. The ridge is attached to the roofing sheet in every third longitudinal wave with self-tapping screws, with a minimum permissible overlap of 100 mm.


Installation of snow retainers

For long-term operation of gutters and in places of undesirable slope of snow, snow arresters are installed. The snow retainer plate is attached under the second cross-sectional profile of the metal tile. The support corner is mounted under the bar on the profile and fixed with it to the crate with self-tapping screws of sufficient length. The lower edge of the snow retaining plate is fixed with screws to the roofing sheet at the upper point through the wave.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with the video, which contains detailed instructions for laying metal tiles.

Metal tile - a material that is used to decorate the roof along with such popular materials as slate, bituminous tiles and galvanized sheet. Excellent technical characteristics make it excellent options for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to conduct this kind, we will consider how to independently install metal tiles: step-by-step instructions and some recommendations of specialists.

A roof made of tiles, especially if it is made of metal, is one of the best options for decorating a house. Specialists and users themselves note many positive aspects of the use of this material, including:

  • low weight (4-6 kg / m²), which provides a very small load on the roof;

It has a democratic price, long life and expressive appearance.

  • simple installation procedure and ease of repair work;
  • wide range of color schemes;
  • the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any harmful components;
  • the coating is equipped with stiffeners, which makes it very durable. Provided that all installation recommendations are complied with, the surface is able to withstand a load of 200 kg / m², even if sheets with a thickness of 0.5 mm were used;
  • the material is extremely temperature resistant. He is not afraid of any changes, and the rate of thermal expansion is minimal.

There is practically no need to talk about the shortcomings of the metal tile, except, perhaps, for the increased noise level on days when it rains. But it is quite possible to cope with this, if you first lay the glass wool layer.

Criteria for choosing a material for a roof made of metal: photo examples

Before you start considering the installation process of this roofing material, you need to determine how exactly the material should be used.

Viewing photos of roofs on which the metal tile looks attractive is far from the best method in this case, since in the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Consider what the buyer needs to know.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price of such additional elements as:

  • various types of skates: simple, figured and with aerators;
  • special pass-through units for installing pipes, hatches, ventilation, antennas, as well as lighting windows;
  • elements designed to ensure the safety of surface maintenance - navigation bridges, stairs, snow retention;
  • indoor and outdoor valleys;
  • other necessary elements are wall profiles, pediments, cornice strips of metal, the installation of which is a mandatory part of the arrangement of the roof.

Important! The presence of all these elements among the seller’s offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to the study of labeling, which must be present on each certified material. Usually, all characteristics of the material itself are indicated in the production, as well as the level of quality of the anti-corrosion coating that is applied over the sheet.

So, here is what information can be gleaned by reading the information provided on the back of the sheet of metal:

  • the presence of polymers;
  • how much zinc is per 1 m² of sheet;
  • production date and period of the warranty period for the use of the material;
  • name of the manufacturer;
  • sheet thickness.

In the process of visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both on the front and on the wrong side of the sheet, as well as the presence of all mandatory markings.

Important! If we are talking about material purchased from a major manufacturer, then the marking will also contain information about the grade of steel used.

Installation of metal: step-by-step instructions for independent work

Given the fact that the price of installing a metal tile has never been low, many prefer to try to do everything they need on their own. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much a professional installation of a metal tile costs. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and can increase depending on complexity.

The installation process of a metal roof, the technology of which will be discussed later, consists of several stages, each of which has its own significance and must be carried out properly.

Laying metal: preparatory stage and calculations

The first thing that needs to be done if it was decided to independently carry out the procedure for laying metal on the roof surface - preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how many materials are required and, accordingly, to avoid unnecessary costs.

To begin with, we will clarify some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly the roof made of metal tiles does not arise. If you look at the roof, which was already covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that extend across the ramp and the waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.

There is such a thing as a “model”. By this name they mean sheets of metal, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. On sale, you can find sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10.

Useful advice! In addition to purchasing sheets of standard sizes, you can consider the option of custom manufacturing of metal tiles to order. Of course, it will cost significantly more, but in this way you can get just such material that suits you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.

In the process of choosing a suitable sheet size, you need to orient yourself so that after installation the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the ramp. The amount of material in this case is quite simple to calculate, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.

When purchasing a metal tile, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements that are included in the kit and allow for proper installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as sheets of steel 200x125 cm, which should have the same color as the tiles.

In the process of purchasing metal, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are in sufficient quantity and meet all the requirements. For example, a standard slope level of a bar is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of customers - from 11 to 70 degrees.

Important! 11 degrees is the minimum slope at which the installation of metal tiles is permissible.

DIY materials and tools for laying metal tiles

In order to carry out the installation of metal tiles with your own hands, you must first take care of the presence of some tools and materials that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:

  • screwdriver;
  • electric drill;
  • scissors for cutting metal;
  • yardstick;
  • hammer;
  • marker;
  • mounting tape.

It is also worth taking care of the presence of a stepladder and means intended for the individual protection of the face and hands (glasses, gloves).

As for the consumables that will be required to prepare the base and fasten the metal tile, this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as aero roller, planks for the ridge and butt ends, guide board and boards 2.5x10 cm. by itself, you will also need fasteners - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.

Useful advice! To give an attractive appearance to the coating, it is worth using decorative overlays.

How to fasten a metal tile: stages of preparatory work

The low weight of the metal allows for a minimum amount of preparatory work before proceeding with the installation. Nevertheless, it will still be necessary to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced base, an ordinary wooden one made of battens is quite suitable.

The procedure is extremely simple - based on the step of the selected metal, rails are located on the surface. It is important to maintain a uniform distance so that in the process of fixing the roofing material it is not necessary to screw the screws into the void. Another important factor that should be taken into account during the installation of the crate is the location of the windows. It is extremely undesirable to place the rafters directly above the windows.

Related article:

Thermal insulation during the installation of a roof made of metal

When it comes to the construction of a roof made of metal, the insulating material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss, and also to reduce the noise that rain drops produce, I hit the surface. For this, a vapor barrier material is first laid on the rafters, and then a layer of thermal insulation. It is important that the thickness of the layer does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached from above, fixing it with wooden bars directly to the rafters.

Important! In order to ensure that rainfall drains into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (approximately 2 cm). Due to such a small sag, there will be no problems with water draining.

Such a “pie” is the most effective system of thermal insulation of the roof, which allows the installation technology of metal tiles. As for the choice of thermal insulation material, there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.

The device of a roof made of metal: basic rules of work

Before you start work related directly to laying metal, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will prevent common mistakes and do everything you need with the highest quality possible:

  1. There are two ways to lay sheets of metal: from right to left and from left to right. In the first case, each subsequent sheet should be overlapped with the previous one, and in the second the previous sheet should be superimposed.
  2. Do not immediately attach each sheet fully. Before fastening the metal tile, it is best to lay four sheets and grab them lightly with fasteners to hold them. Then you need to make sure that they are arranged as needed and trim if necessary. For final fixing, use one self-tapping screw, which passes through all the sheets.
  3. The service life of the entire roof is highly dependent on the quality of the fasteners used. Therefore, the choice of screws must be given due attention. It is important that they are galvanized and must have special seals on their heads, which can hermetically fill the holes when the screw is completely screwed into the hole.
  4. In those places where several sheets were fastened with one fastener at once, one way or another, a seal will appear. In order to smooth it, you need to cut off a part of the corner or you can straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.

Scheme of fastening of metal tiles and other necessary elements

Certain rules exist for the installation of other mandatory elements, without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation of metal tiles and other elements:

  • end strips should be fixed with an overlap, which should be about 2 cm. In this case, the wave size should be adjusted in accordance with the width of the ramp. Otherwise, you may encounter the fact that the crest will fit on the pediment;
  • for the cornice strip, it is also necessary to have an overlap of 10 cm on the lower bar of the crate, to which it is attached with nails;
  • between the sheet of metal and the roofing strip, it is necessary to lay an additional layer of sealing material;
  • for the arrangement of all elements located below the ridge (pipes and windows), sheets with one module are used. Typically, 2 pieces are required for each structural member;
  • if the roof slope is sloping, then it is necessary to additionally install an aero roller between the ridge bar and the material itself. This will avoid the penetration of precipitation under the ridge;

  • fixation of the ridge should be made to the strips, which are located in the end part of the entire structure. In this case, the calculations should be carried out taking into account the necessary protrusion, which is 2-3 cm. Moreover, if you have to deal with a flat ridge, then the attachment is overlapped, and for semicircular elements according to the profile lines;
  • it is necessary to study in advance the specifics of installing a drip under the metal tile, and clearly follow all instructions.

Useful advice! If you have to work with a roof, the angle of which is more than 45 degrees, then it is worthwhile to make calculations in advance that will determine if it is possible to install a specific model of the ridge in this case. This must be done, as otherwise, even a complete replacement of the entire roof covering may be necessary.

It is worth paying attention also to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge bar lends itself to some adjustment. That is, it can not be bent or bent to provide the most accurate repetition of the angle of inclination of the roof. You can learn more about such subtleties from the video instruction for installing metal tiles.

Installation of a roofing roof with a metal tile

Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected - endova. An additional board must be attached for each such element. In this case, fastening should start from the bottom, gradually moving up and not forgetting the need for overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the cornice, be sure to trim the lower bar. Then follows the flanging, under which, like under the ridge, a seal is laid.

Between the sheets and the axis there is a gap of about 8-10 cm. Then, at a distance of about 1.5 cm from the stamping line, screws are screwed into the cut sheets. At the same time, the mount should be located 25 cm from the axis of the valley. If you follow this technology, then in the end the sheet, in place of the fastener, converges with the board on which the valley is located.

As for the installation of the valley at the bottom, it must be started before laying the roofing material. This is important in order to further ensure that water drains directly into the additional element.

Important! All errors in the process of calculations and measurements can lead to gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation begins, the roof will most likely leak.

In order to cover those places where cropped sheets are visible, use special decorative overlays. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:

  • installation must be made from the bottom up;
  • a sealant between the overlay and tile is not needed;
  • overlays must be overlapped at least 10 cm;
  • fasteners (in this case, self-tapping screws) should not cause damage to the valley.

Very often you have to deal with situations when the beginning and end of the endows are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, consider the case when installing the dormer. In such a situation, it is necessary to lay a separate board, and a hole is made in the sheet of metal for the window itself. The cornice section is overlapped with a bar. And along the walls must be laid sealing material.

How to lay a metal tile on a roof with a triangular or trapezoidal slope

If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof with metal, then installation of two additional bars will be required. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the ridge. After that, the cornice board is mounted and the assembly of the battens begins. The pitch of the crate for the metal tile in this case is calculated in the same way as with the standard scheme. Then the eaves system is installed. The metal tile begins to be laid only after carrying out all these procedures, orienting and leveling the first sheet along the ledge of the cornice.

Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the ridge should not exceed 10 cm.

In order to establish the nodes of the ridge it is necessary to even the ridge planks relative to the angle of the ridge. In the case of using a straight skate, it must be cut according to the available angles, and for the semicircular special plugs are provided. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.

The ridge plate should be located strictly along the axis of the ridge. This is not too difficult if the angles of the ramp are the same. If they have different sizes, then the task is significantly complicated. As an auxiliary material, a bright mounting foam is used, which allows you to determine the quality of abutment to the slopes.

Installation instructions for metal tiles "Monterrey"

A separate type of metal tile, undoubtedly worthy of attention - Monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional features:

  • extremely high level of resistance of the material both to ultraviolet radiation and to other external factors, for example, moisture and temperature;
  • due to the polymer layer deposited on the surface of the tile, it does not lose its appearance throughout the entire life cycle;
  • the material is extremely strong and hard, so that it can withstand severe loads;
  • multi-layer structure prevents corrosion;
  • due to its low weight (one square meter of material weighs no more than 5 kg), the load on the rafter system is significantly reduced;
  • using this option is a great savings, since there is no need to take a big step between the mounts. Initially, the installation instructions for the Monterrey metal tile included 35-centimeter steps.

There are only two drawbacks to this material - a large number of residues after installation, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.

As for the features that you need to know about before laying the Montreil metal tile, the following aspects play a role here:

  • for different models of this material, it is necessary to prepare a different crate. So, for a Standard or Super metal tile, a step of 35 cm will be enough, but for Lux or Maxi, the step should be 40 cm;
  • in the most difficult places of the roof (usually these are the internal corners, as well as the place where the chimney outlet is located), you need to do a continuous crate;
  • on the abutment strips, to exit the chimney, it is necessary to install internal aprons;
  • the installation instructions for the Monterrey metal tile do not provide for the use of material whose length is more than 4 m;
  • before installing the material, it is necessary to remove the protective coating, as it may be impossible to do this in the future.

Categorically it is impossible to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this can lead to the fact that the profile will collapse. Also, in no case should you use a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels for this purpose.

Interesting! The metal cascade Cascade also looks great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But then the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.

How to properly care for a roof covering with a metal tile

Having studied the step-by-step installation instructions for metal siding, you can carry out its high-quality installation. But in order for the material to last for many years, you need to know how to care for it.

The top layer of metal is a polymeric material that is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure to external factors: precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer can begin to deteriorate, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the operational life of the roof, it is necessary to regularly carry out the following procedures:

  • remove dirt, dust and dry leaves from the surface using a wet, fluffy brush;
  • when it comes to eliminating more complex contaminants, it is acceptable to use cleaning products, but only those designed for polymer surfaces. It is strictly forbidden to use aggressive chemicals, as they destroy the protective layer and render the material unusable;
  • gutters are cleaned with a jet of water, which should be directed from the ridge to the ledges;
  • it is possible and necessary to clear snow, but it is worth doing it only with the use of such tools that are not capable of causing damage to the delicate coating.

Subject to these simple, but extremely important rules, a metal tile coating can properly serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.

Common mistakes in the process of installing a roof from a metal tile with your own hands

Inexperienced masters often make mistakes, which can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely, redone. Such negligence can lead to additional expenses for the purchase of material and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:

  • installation of metal should be done exclusively in shoes with soft soles that cannot damage or scratch the coating;
  • it is strictly forbidden to step on the crest of the wave, as this can cause deformation;
  • moreover, stepping on sheets with a complete foot is generally not recommended;
  • when moving along the surface of the material, the leg should be placed parallel to, and not perpendicular to, the ramp;
  • material can only be taken with gloves on.

Taking into account these not complicated rules, as well as acting in accordance with the technology of laying metal tiles, you can independently make a beautiful and reliable roof.

Installation of snow retainers on a metal tile: instructions and their types

A high level of security is one of the main requirements that are imposed on the roof from any material, including metal. For this purpose, special designs are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure safe snow from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they help maintain the original shape of the structure, and do not allow it to deform under the weight of icy snow. And given that its mass in some cases may exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite relevant.

Important! The issue of the distribution of the load that the snow exerts on the roof surface should be considered even at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.

It is almost impossible to predict how exactly the snow will be distributed on the roof surface. It depends on many factors, including the angle of the roof, the direction of the wind, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:

Q \u003d G × s

In this case, Q is the load exerted by the snow, G is the mass of snow on the flat surface of the roof, which can be found from a special table, and S is the correction factor, which depends on the angle of the roof:\u003e 25 ° - 1, if 25- 60 ° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is greater than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case the precipitation on the surface will not be delayed for sure.

In order to determine indicator G, it is necessary to refer to a special table that provides information on snow cover for each region of the country.

Installation of tubular snow retainers on a metal tile: installation rules

As a rule, a pipe is used as the basis for snow retention, which is laid along the roof. In the case of using a metal tile as a roofing material, fixation is made in places where the roof and the bearing wall are connected.

It is strictly forbidden to fix these elements on the cornice strip for metal, as this can entail the destruction of all systems. Moreover, if you have to deal with a ramp, the length of which is quite large, then the installation of snow retainers on the metal tile must be done in several rows at once to provide a more reliable fixation.

The pipes themselves are mounted on the roof either end-to-end or staggered. Special attention is paid to the installation of such a system if the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be made in such a way that a snow retainer is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.

Lattice snow retention for a roof made of metal: how to fix it correctly

Lattice snow retention is considered to be the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems choose this option mainly. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and “royal”, although it is worth recognizing that there is not much difference between them, except for the supports and the complexity of the gratings.

The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow retention is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter when it comes to snow retention, but also in summer. Indeed, in the warm season, all kinds of repairs are most often carried out.

Corner snow retention for metal roofing

Corner snow retainers are thin steel sheets that are coated with a polymer coating that protects them from corrosion. This is one of the budget options, which at the same time allows you to effectively prevent snow from rolling off the roof. It is very simple to choose a model that will fit the existing metal tile, since the range of color solutions is extremely large.

To fix the corner snow retainers on the roof, metal tiles use self-tapping screws and ordinary metal corners. Mounting is done on the top wave of the sheet.

These are far from all design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. The metal tile is perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be problems with the choice and fixation.

Installation of a skylight in a metal tile

It is believed that the installation of skylights is not a task for beginners, and this question is best addressed to specialists who have the proper experience in this field. But this does not mean at all that it is unrealistic to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal and the installation of the window itself in this case may well pass without any problems.

First of all, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where the rafter step is very small, two small windows are installed in neighboring niches.

Window installation is carried out after the roofing “cake” is completely made, then you need to install the mounting beam, for which I use the same boards as for the rafter system. Then make the installation of the frame and mount the sash. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of rainfall into the house.

Of course, you have to make some changes to the installation process of the lathing under the metal tile, and pay special attention to the installation of the ridge of the metal tile, if you plan a skylight. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.

Installation of metal: video instruction for beginners

For those who have never before been engaged in similar works, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to fix a metal tile on a roof. A vivid demonstration, as well as the recommendations of specialists will allow you to avoid mistakes, and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof, which will function properly for many years.

The metal tile has firmly entered our lives. It is this option that an increasing number of people choose to cover the roof. He has many advantages, and one of the main is considered to be a long service life and reliability. But in order for these advantages to really work, the installation should be carried out correctly. And what is the technology of laying metal roof tiles? What difficulties may arise in the implementation of this task? This will be discussed in the article.

How much material is needed and how to choose it

Do-it-yourself laying of a metal tile is a completely feasible task. But before you start it, you should purchase the material itself, and in the right amount. In order to determine how many sheets of metal you need, you should do the following:

  1. Calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof. If the roof is gable, then this will not be difficult. Difficulties with calculations will arise with a more complex roof configuration. For a four-slope, broken line or other option, you should calculate the area of \u200b\u200beach slope separately.
  2. After that, you can decide on the right amount of metal. But even here difficulties may arise. Firstly, the laying of material on the roof is carried out with an overlap. Secondly, you should always monitor the correctness of the picture.
  3. 10-15 percent should be added to the estimated amount of metal tile. You will not succeed in laying the material without scraps, especially on a roof with a complex configuration.
  4. After calculating the required amount of metal for laying on the roof of your new home, you can go to the hardware store. But the purchase itself should be done carefully so as not to purchase low-quality products. To prevent this from happening, it is worth paying attention to some features.

    Firstly, the protective polymer layer of metal should not have chips and cracks. Secondly, the sheets themselves should be flat, without dents or kinks. Also, ask sellers for material documentation. It should be indicated that the metal tile is made according to the existing GOST.

    Another tip is to make a purchase directly from a major manufacturer. In this case, the cost of metal can be less than thirty percent. Why big? The fact is that many entrepreneurs buy metal tile production machines. But not all of them have the quality of products at the right level. Large manufacturers are more “anxious” about their reputation.

    Preparation of the base for metal

    Laying metal on the roof is done using the lathing. You can do it yourself. To do this, prepare the material. As a rule, wooden planks or bars are used for the crate, but you can also put a sheet of chipboard. The latter option in the case of metal is rarely used. For this type of roofing material, the crate is discharged.

    Used boards or bars must meet the following requirements:

    1. The moisture content of the material is not more than 10-12 percent.
    2. All boards should be the same size, especially with regard to their thickness.
    3. Do not use material with “flaws”, for example, with cracks or places subject to decay.

    For most often use boards with dimensions of 25 to 100 millimeters. If the roof has a complex configuration, then it is better to use thicker bars.

    It is very important to determine the step of the crate. It all depends on. The step of laying the boards should be equal to the distance between the waves. But this does not apply to all sections of the roof. At the eaves, the step between the boards of the battens should be less, by about 2-3 centimeters.

    The technology of laying the boards of the roof lathing under the metal tile is simple. Begin work from the eaves. The first board is mounted on the very edge. Next, an indent of 23-28 centimeters is made and the next one is attached. After that, the boards are laid with a step equal to the step of the wave of metal.

    You can fix it using self-tapping screws on wood or using nails. The first option is considered the most reliable. Mounting is made directly to the rafters, two points.

    Before installation, it is very important to treat all boards with special impregnations. Wood is a “moody” material. He is “afraid” of moisture, fire and biological effects, if the boards are not treated with impregnations, they will quickly decay.

    Do not forget about waterproofing. Of course, if you put the metal tile correctly, the roof will not leak. But you can’t do without an additional layer of waterproofing. The fact is that with temperature changes under the roofing material, condensation begins to form. If moisture gets on the wooden elements of the rafter system, they will begin to rot.

    As a waterproofing, you can use various materials. You can lay a thick plastic film or a special membrane. As an inexpensive option, roofing material can also be used, but here you should be careful. If bitumen gets on the polymer layer of the metal, the latter may begin to "deteriorate."

    What is needed for laying material

    Putting the metal tile on the roof of the house with your own hands is a simple task. But, so that everything goes quickly and without hesitation, you should prepare for work. First of all, you need to get all the tools and appliances.

    Do-it-yourself laying of the metal tile on the roof is carried out using the following:


    The necessary materials should also be prepared. In addition to self-tapping screws and metal itself, it is necessary to "stock up" with additional products. Any roof of the house can not do without a cornice and end plate, ridge and other details. It is advisable to purchase them from the same manufacturer from whom the metal tile was purchased.

    Installation instructions

    Now it is worth considering such a question as laying metal tiles step by step. The technology of this process is as follows:

    1. The first step is to fix the cornice and end plate. These additional elements play an important role, they protect the roof of the house. Before mounting the cornice strip, beat the windshield. Brackets for a drain are mounted on it. After that, the eaves strip is laid.
    2. If the roof has negative angles, then the next step will be the installation of the valley. This element must be placed on a continuous crate.
    3. Next, you can lay the metal itself. You need to do this from the eaves. From which side of the roof, from the right or from the left, to start is the master’s own business. This is not important. The first sheet must be laid flush with the cornice and the edge of the roof. The next stack on the right or left.
    4. The installation procedure is simple. The bottom row is mounted first. Next, the next one and so on to the ridge. The best option is if it matches the length of the ramp. In this case, the installation will be faster, and the roof itself will be more reliable (there will be few joints). But if the roof is broken or has a complex configuration, then this will not work.
    5. It is not necessary to fasten the sheets of metal to the crate immediately. First, one row is laid out. Next, align all the sheets with respect to each other and the edges of the roof. After that is carried out. At the same time, for every square meter there must be at least eight screws.
    6. Attachment points should be strictly above the batten boards. Installation instructions indicate that the screws are screwed one and a half centimeters below the stamping line of the metal tile. At the same time, you can’t be very zealous. The hat should press the metal tile tightly to the base, without damaging it.
    7. The instructions for laying the metal tile indicate the next step - this is the fastening of the upper valley. Its installation is carried out on top of the roofing material. In this case, you need to use special products that improve the tightness of the joints. Endova is the most dangerous place of any roof. It is here that leaks are most often observed.
    8. Further, by, there is a laying of additional products. This is a horse, end strips and so on. Best of all, they are from the same manufacturer. In this case, the installation will take place without much difficulty. In addition, it will provide a more attractive appearance and significantly improve the protection of the roof of the house.
    9. When laying additional materials, one should also carefully consider waterproofing and other "additions". This is especially true for the skate. Here, in addition to the gasket, to improve protection against leakage, other devices should be used that will ensure the presence of a ventilation gap. Without such a “gap”, condensate formed under the metal tile with a change in temperature can quickly damage the rafter system.

Most developers prefer to cover the roof with metal tiles. The technology for laying metal roof tiles is quite simple, so this material can be laid independently. If there is no free time, specialists are hired to perform roofing work.

But still it is much cheaper to perform roofing on their own. To do this, you just need to carefully study the step-by-step installation instructions, which are often attached when buying roofing material.

In this article

Used tool for roofing

For self-installation of metal tiles you will need tools:

  • Ladder
  • Wooden staircase (laid directly on the roof)
  • Roulette wheel
  • Reiki
  • Chalk, marker, simple pencil (for marking)
  • Hammer
  • Strong rope
  • Scissors for metal
  • Boards for lifting profile sheets on the roof
  • Screwdriver (if possible on battery)

Calculation of the required amount of roofing material

The layout of the metal tile involves an accurate calculation of the amount of building material to cover the roof. Sheets of metal are asymmetric, the calculation of their number has its own characteristics. You cannot replace one sheet with another.

The manufacturer indicates the dimensions of the sheet of metal tile horizontally, vertically, but, in addition, effective sheet dimensions are provided for this material, the calculation of which takes into account the overlap of the sheets, as a result, the effective overlap area is determined. Also, the asymmetry of the roof must be taken into account.

Roof preparation

The technology of laying metal roof tiles provides for preliminary preparation. In order to lay the metal tile correctly, it is absolutely necessary to perform the roof lathing, mount the gutters for the drain of water, the cornice strips. It is preliminary recommended to check the roof for evenness, namely: the horizontal position of the ridge, the length of the roof slopes horizontally. In the event that the roof went skewed, it must be leveled.

Counter grill

A counter-lattice is being erected on the roof: bars (50 mm cross-section) are stacked on the rafters.

Waterproofing material

Next, waterproofing material is laid: the film is not fixed tightly, with allowances (it is better to use one integral canvas, but if it is impossible, then overlap, which should be at least 15 cm). Do not use waterproofing material made on the basis of bitumen. After some time, it will sag on the bars of the counter-lattice. As a result, condensation will collect.

Crate

After laying the waterproofing layer from boards with a cross section of 3.2 x 10 cm, a lathing is set up with a step equal to the step of the metal profile wave, which the manufacturer indicates in the instructions. The bottom of the battens should be approximately 15 mm higher than the rest.

The parallelism of fixing the board to the ledge is checked using a plumb line (this is an important point, since this board will be placed under the step of the metal tile). Carelessly performed crate in the future will lead to many problems, for example, sheets of material will not join, poor-quality fastening and other nuances.

If the wave step of the profile sheet is 30 mm, the distance between the first two bars of the crate should be 23 mm, and already between the rest 35 mm. The wave pitch is 35 mm, then the distance between the bars will be 28 mm, 35 mm, respectively. The wave pitch is 40 mm, the distance between the bars is 33 mm, 40 mm.

Leveling roof slopes

Also, when preparing the roof for laying metal tiles, it is worth paying special attention to the chimney, internal corners. In these areas, a continuous crate is mounted, if necessary, aprons are additionally equipped.

Structural elements are treated with antiseptic agents before starting to install them.  First you need to raise the roofing material to the roof (the rise of metal is carried out on one sheet of building material). To do this, logs, strong belts specially designed for lifting work can be used (the lifting technology is selected depending on the height of the building).

  1. If the length of the coating sheets is similar to the length of the roof slope, then the first coating sheet is aligned with the roofing end, the cornice. For fastening the profile, special self-tapping screws with a gasket are used (for the metal crate, self-tapping screws are taken - 0.48x2 cm, for wooden - 0.48 × 28 cm). The length of the screws is determined by the manufacturer of the metal and the type of profile used.
  2. In the areas adjoining the profile to the crate, fastening is carried out staggered using self-tapping screws, the consumption of which will be approximately 8 pieces per m².
  3. When the installation of tiles is carried out from left to right, the edge of the stacked profile sheet is wound under the edge of the previous one. Installation of tile sheets is carried out from right to left - the profiled sheet must be lapped on the previous one.
  4. The first sheet of material should extend beyond the edge of the roof cornice by 5 cm, it is temporarily attached to the crate with a self-tapping screw near the cornice, the edge of the ridge.
  5. Next, the next professional sheet is laid. The sheets should be joined together as tightly and accurately as longitudinal lateral overlap without distortions, gaps. To connect them, 0.48 × 2 cm self-tapping screws are used, the fastening itself is carried out through the top of the wave from the roof cornice to the ridge.
  6. In a similar way, 3-4 sheets of the profile are connected and after that it is possible to remove the temporary self-tapping screw, which was used initially for fastening the first sheet of metal tile. The whole block is aligned with the eaves.
  7. On both sides of the stacked block, the final offset measurement is carried out. In the case of proper alignment, all sizes must coincide, then the sheet must and can be fixed to the crate using a self-tapping screw. The remaining profile sheets are attached to the crate, connected at the joints.
  8. After completion of construction work, it is necessary to remove all the chips that were formed as a result of cutting the building material, drilling holes. To do this, use a soft brush. Damaged areas are tinted with special paint.
  9. If the slope of the sloping roof has several rows, then the installation of metal is carried out by a different method: sheets are expanded in a certain order, which is determined by grooves for water drainage located on the longitudinal edges of the material. When using this laying technology, the sheets are joined along the roof slope with an overlap of 15 cm or more.
  10. The transverse profile is fastened at the end of the transverse wave with 0.48 × 2 cm self-tapping screws designed for metal surfaces.
  11. On the hip, the installation of the metal tile is carried out from the upper point, falling down evenly on both sides. The installation scheme is similar to the previously described scheme.
  12. The capillary groove of the profile is overlapped by the previous sheet of metal.

Roof Mounting

Ventilation must be provided in the attic, so profiled sheets should not converge under the ridge bar. The skate is attached with screws to the roofing through the wave.

The overlap of the planks should be 10 cm or more. Arrangement of the ridge semicircular configuration of the hip roof is performed using special pads, plugs.

Mounting the ledge

The roof cornice strip made of metal provides protection to the boards from the effects of precipitation, respectively, prevents their destruction. Installation of strips with an overlap of 5 cm, in increments of 30 cm. Galvanized nails are used for fastening.

Installation of a valley

Endov slats are mounted at the level of the crate. Between them you need to leave a two-centimeter ventilation gap. The cornice strip is trimmed, mounted on the corners of the valley.

After that, the profile of the lower valley is mounted, which is cut according to the shape of the cornice strip. Guides are marked along the endova strip with a distance of at least 20 cm between them.

After the installation of the roof covering is completed, a decorative cover with a step of 0.5 m is attached to the metal tile along the endova plank.

End plate mounting

This element of the roof structure is fixed with screws to the end board, while taking a step of 1 meter and a crate (step of 40-80 cm).

Seal installation

The sealing material is attached immediately before laying the plank of the ridge. It glues towards the middle at a distance of 0.25 m from the edge of the ridge.

Skate installation

Fastened with screws to the metal profile through three profile waves. The minimum overlap is 10 cm.

Arrangement of snow retention

To increase the service life of water effluents, it is planned to install additional elements - snow retainers. They are placed in areas where the convergence of snow from the roof is undesirable.   The snow retention bar is fixed under the second transverse profile of the profiled sheet.  The lower edge of the snow retainer strip is attached to the metal tile, the reference corner to the crate.

Conclusion

The use of metal roof tiles to cover the roof provides the opportunity to create a strong reliable roof for any building with a sufficiently long service life. This building material is lightweight, easy to carry out installation work, so you can use it to close the roof of your own house yourself, without involving professionals.