The best place for long-term storage of crops and conservation is the cellar, which is a characteristic attribute of most of the plots in Russia. There are several types of cellars, however, buried structures are common in our country, which we will talk about in this article.

We will tell you how to build a cellar with your own hands. An instruction will be given in which step by step all the stages of construction will be considered - from the arrangement of walls to the installation of ventilation.

1 Basement and cellar - what is the difference?

Often these concepts are taken for the same design, but these are fundamentally different structures. The basement is a room inside a private or multi-storey building, located below ground level. Such a basement is used for any household needs - you can store the same conservation, tools, make an utility room or a workshop in it.

The cellar is used exclusively for storing food; it differs both in layout and in internal arrangement. At the same time, the construction of the basement is possible only inside the house, while the cellar is often performed as a separate building, but it can be equipped both under the house and in the garage. Designs and sizes differ, a self-built basement can occupy the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe house, while the cellar has compact dimensions.

1.1 We make a cellar in the garage with our own hands

Before you start building a cellar under the garage, you need to make a sketch of the future structure. The scheme should indicate the spatial position of the building, the location of the main structural elements - the entrance, ventilation, and the dimensions of the structure.

Based on the fact that the ceiling of the cellar should have a height of 180-190 cm, the depth of the excavation pit should be 2 m. Choose its area based on the size of the garage and your own needs, a room of 2 * 3 will be enough to store the crop from the garden and a small amount of conservation m

You also need to decide on the materials used. The walls of the cellar can be made of brick or concrete blocks (FBS), it is not recommended to use cellular materials (foam concrete and aerated concrete) for this purpose, since they absorb moisture greatly. The floor of the cellar is easiest to do as a regular concrete screed. The slab should be reinforced and have a thickness of 5-10 cm. The optimum strength class of concrete is M400.

Note that the cellar in the garage or under the house makes sense to do directly at the stage of laying the foundation of these buildings, in all other cases it will be more rational to equip a separate building.

How to make a cellar in the garage - step by step instructions:

1. Floor arrangements. First of all, you need to dig a pit of the required depth and form a bed of two layers of sand and gravel 5 cm thick on its bottom, each of which must be carefully tamped. A layer of concrete undercoating 2-3 cm thick is poured over the sealing pillow, after it is dried, concrete is laid on concrete preparation (you can use a regular roofing material) and a front screed 7-10 cm thick is poured, this will be the floor in the cellar. The screed must be reinforced with steel mesh.
   

   

2. Masonry walls. You can start raising the walls no earlier than 10 days after you poured the floor in the cellar. The optimal material is brick (red or silicate), the masonry is performed using cement-sand mortar (1: 4 ratio). Putting the first row is necessary starting from the corners of the plate, while do not forget to control the evenness of the masonry in the horizontal and vertical plane using the level.
3. Waterproofing the walls. The simplest waterproofing method is to arrange a castle made of oily clay around the perimeter of the walls, which will protect them from the penetration of surface water. To do this, dig the walls of the cellar to a depth of 50 cm, glue 5 mm thick foam panels to them and fill the ditch with clay, ramming it in layers. Polyfoam is needed not only for thermal insulation, but also to protect the wall from the expansion of clay, which occurs when it is moistened.
   

   

4. Installation of the floor. As a ceiling, it makes sense to put a reinforced concrete slab with a hatch that will form the ceiling of the cellar. The concrete slab has significant weight, so lifting equipment will be required to install it. In the future, the hatch will perform the function of entering the cellar, along with it you will need to use a portable staircase (arranging a staircase with concrete steps is rational only for large basements).
   

   

After the cellar box is ready, work on the ventilation and waterproofing of the walls begins. The cellar in the house or garage can be equipped with conventional supply and exhaust ventilation from pipes with a diameter of 10 cm, in most cases it will be enough. The supply pipe must be installed directly under the ceiling, the exhaust pipe must be 10 cm higher than the floor level. The pipes are led out through the ground, their cut must be 30 cm above the roof of the building. The hole, in order to avoid clogging of the pipe, must be blocked with a grid.

When arranging a cellar under the house with your own hands, it is important to take care of the waterproofing of the walls, since the room located underground will be affected by groundwater. This can cause a variety of problems - from the formation of condensation on the walls, dampness and fungus, to the partial flooding of the cellar. The most effective way of protection is to treat the walls with penetrating waterproofing (Penetron, Penetrat, CT-Tron). These are coating materials, which, after being applied to the surface of the walls, penetrate into the pores of brick or concrete and clog them, preventing water from leaking through the material.

1.2 Making a do-it-yourself cellar (video)

2 How to build a basement?

Like the arrangement of the inner cellar, the construction of the basement with a basement should be provided even at the design stage of a house or a garage. The technologies of their construction are not much different, except for the difference in the size of the premises - the same floor is made of concrete screed, FBS or brick walls, and the ceiling in the basement is also made from a factory floor slab.

However, the large size of the basement, which can occupy the entire area of \u200b\u200ba private house, requires much more serious costs for its construction, and therefore, when deciding on the need for a basement, you need to be completely sure of the expediency of its construction.

The main reason why the basement is impossible for the builder is the high water level (groundwater level). Even though there are many effective methods of drainage, in some cases it will be easier and cheaper to make an extension on the first floor of the house than to deal with groundwater.

Let's figure out how to build a basement:

1. Excavators are developing a foundation pit of the required size.
2. The foundation plate is marked at the bottom of the pit.
3. A collapsible formwork is mounted from the boards along the height of the slab, a sand and gravel pillow 20-30 cm thick is poured into the formwork.
4. A concrete slab up to 5 cm thick is poured over the bedding, which, after hardening, is waterproofed.
5. An armored carcass from rods with a diameter of 14 mm is assembled on the basement. The plate must be reinforced with a frame in two zones with cells 25 * 25 cm. The reinforcement is connected by welding or by knitting wire.
6. The slab is concreted with concrete of the M400 brand.
7. After the foundation has set the residual strength, the basement walls of the FBS rise. Each 4 row of masonry must be reinforced with rods with a diameter of 12-16 mm, which are laid in the gates made on the surface of the blocks.
8. Upon completion of the masonry of the walls, a ceiling slab is laid by the crane, which serves as the basement flow.

Next, the waterproofing works discussed in the previous section are performed. A few words about how to make a staircase to the basement. It can be a wooden, metal or cast concrete structure. The optimal width of the stairs is 80-90 cm, the clearance is 200 cm, the slope is from 20 to 30 degrees, the height of one step is 20 cm.

The most reliable and easy to arrange is a metal staircase. To weld it you will need two channels, corners of 5 cm for the frame of steps and sheet metal for their sheathing. The finished structure must be concreted in pits with a depth of 20 cm, in the slab of the staircase is fixed using reinforcement anchors.

If the conditions on the site allow the construction of an underground basement, then you can equip it in an existing building. However, there may be problems with a lack of foundation height, which will be used as basement walls. In accordance with the rules of SNiP, the height of the basement of a private house should be 2 meters. Given the thickness of the floor slab, the pit will need to be developed at least 2.1 m.

Technically, the problem of insufficient foundation height is solvable, but at the same time it is quite laborious. To get the required 2.1 m, you can build up the foundation from below using the FBS blocks lining, or you can make a separate basement wall to the side of the foundation tape.

For the storage of home preservation and vegetables grown in a country house or a personal plot, three types of premises are used: fully buried (including basements), half-buried, and ground. If everything is done correctly during the construction process, then in any of the 3 storage facilities the optimal conditions will be observed - blackout, clean air and low temperature (from 2 to 7 ° C). The purpose of our article is to explain how to build a cellar on the street with your own hands, choosing the most suitable design.

Choosing a warehouse project

For the successful construction of the cellar, a simple rule should be understood: the more the structure is buried in the ground, the easier it is to create optimal conditions for storing agricultural products in it. The diagram below shows how the temperature of the soil changes at different depths throughout the year. It is easy to see that in the lower horizons it behaves more stably than in the upper.

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to equip an ideal basement. The reason is in local geological and hydrological conditions, in other words, in the specific composition of soils and the high level of groundwater. In any case, before building the cellar, the owner of the cottage or estate should find answers to such questions:

• how close to the surface are groundwater during heavy rains;
• what is the depth of freezing of the soil;
• the nature of the underlying soil;
• what area of \u200b\u200bthe yard is allocated for construction.

Note. These issues are especially important when you plan to build a basement under a garage, a shed or a private house, since you will have to select and calculate the foundation of the building.

The high level of groundwater is the most serious problem for the construction of an underground vegetable store. Therefore, at the initial stage, it is necessary to experimentally determine at what depth they lie, for example, to drill a well or to interview neighbors who have managed to make cellars. If during the flood period the water does not rise above the minus 3 m mark, then you can safely build a fully buried basement in the country, shown in the photo.

If the aquifers are closer than 3 m, then the bottom of the cellar or glacier should be made 0.5 m above this mark. So, you have to build a semi-buried or ground structure with a loose top. At the same time, moist and heaving soils around the structure, freezing 1.5-2 m deep, need to be replaced with loose fractions (sand, fine gravel).

Tip. Fighting flooding in a deeply buried basement is a troublesome and expensive business. In order not to have to arrange a full-fledged caisson - a technically difficult pressurized structure, it is better to leave part of the cellar from above and bury it with earth. An example of such a structure with an original design is shown in the photo.

How to make a deep basement

All the work on the construction of a buried cellar with their own hands is divided into several stages:

1. Clarification of the layout of the structure.
2. Selection of building materials.
3. Digging a pit, erecting walls and ceilings.
4. Installation of ventilation and lighting, interior design.

The layout of the underground storage is of 2 types - with a hatch and a full-sized door at the entrance. The first option is inconvenient in operation, but it saves space and therefore is used for basements under garages, country houses and sheds, and sometimes on the street. How a cellar with a lid and a vertical staircase is arranged is reflected in the drawing:

To install the front door, one of the sizes of the basement will have to be increased by at least 1 m to make steps along the wall. Another way is to build a flight of stairs directly to the door, which is very convenient for moving supplies to the store and back. The drawing below shows a structure with a straight staircase, shown in section.

More information about the design of the basement is described in the video:

We select materials

The requirements for the design of the underground part of the cellar are simple - it should not be destroyed by exposure to moisture, it must pass heat well and withstand the pressure of the soil. So for the construction of walls, traditional building materials are suitable:

• monolithic concrete;
• ceramic red brick (not silicate);
• cinder blocks;
• various natural stones - flagstone, granite, shell rock, sandstone;
• ready-made foundation blocks of the FBS series.

Natural stone masonry

Tip. The use of metal and silicate brick is a mistake. The first in the basement is very rusty and releases harmful compounds, and the second is destroyed by moisture. Metal products are used only for reinforcing concrete fences and coatings.

To cover the basement, you can take a tree - timber, log and slab, or pour a slab of concrete on a steel frame. A more expensive and complex option is a brick vaulted coating constructed using wedge technology (each stone is cut so as to wedge adjacent ones), or circled on a solution using templates.

Floors are made of three types:

• earthen with the addition of crushed stone (adobe);
• bulk of gravel and gravel;
• reinforced concrete.

The first 2 ways of arranging floors are suitable for cellars dug in dry dense soils - sand, rock and the like. In the presence of moisture, it is better to perform a screed with a bias towards the pit.

Reference. In former times, storages were made as dugouts - without stone fences. Earthen slopes were sheathed with wood, after which the pit was blocked by logs with lining with slabs, where the insulation - clay with straw was laid.

Basement walls need waterproofing, as they still have to come in contact with moisture. For this purpose, you need to purchase bitumen mastic or roofing material.

We are building the underground part

The first step is to dig a pit whose dimensions are half a meter larger than the dimensions of the future cellar. Then, sinuses form between the walls and the ground, allowing for external waterproofing. Dense, dry soil can be dug vertically, at an angle of 90 ° to the horizontal, aligning the sides of the pit in a plane. In loose or wet soils, it is better to dig a pit with slopes of 30-45 ° to the vertical. Also at the excavation stage, you need to dig an inclined trench for the stairs.

Tip. To facilitate the work, it is worth using an excavator, which will extract the bulk of the land. You just have to earn some money on the walls and bottom of the pit.

For the construction of concrete walls and floors, use the following technology:

1. Fill the bottom with sand to a height of 10 cm and tamp well, pouring water, repeat the same operation with crushed stone. Install the formwork along the edges and lay the mesh from the reinforcement of the periodic profile with a diameter of 10-12 mm with cells of 15 x 15 cm.
2. Perform a 10-12 cm thick screed from M200-250 concrete with a slope towards the pit or prefabricated gutter, as described in the video above. To set, let the screed stand for 1 week.
3. Install the shield formwork along the walls and fix the reinforcing mesh in it, as is done in the photo. Do not forget to put embedded parts and lay up ventilation pipes made of plastic.
4. Pour concrete to the very top of the pit, expelling air from it by immersing steel rods. After 7 days, remove the formwork and lay the channels No. 14-20 on the walls with a step of 0.5 m. Weld the fittings to them with an interval of 10-12 cm.
5. Mount the bottom and side formwork of a monolithic overlap. To do this, the OSB plywood sheets need to be tied to the reinforcing cage and supported from below with wooden beams. It remains to lay the concrete mixture and wait 28 days until the entire structure has solidified.

Note. The minimum thickness of a monolithic wall should be 20 cm. For masonry and brickwork, this size is 250 mm, and for cinder blocks - a width of 1 stone.

If an inclined staircase leads to the basement, then during the hardening of the main structure, take up the decoration of its walls and the formation of steps. It is not necessary to use concrete, slopes and treads can be overlaid with an improvised stone. How the listed works are performed, see in the next video:

After the solution has hardened, be sure to treat the outer surfaces of the walls with a bitumen primer or paste over roofing material for waterproofing. Then backfill the sinuses with clay (the so-called clay castle). The ceiling should also be covered with roofing material and covered with a layer of earth or make a beautiful gable roof.

Reference. Now, instead of traditional buildings, you can use a more modern solution - a ready-made plastic cylindrical cellar, completely installed in the pit. Judging by the feedback from users on the forums, seamless plastic products from the Russian brands Triton and Tingard are popular.

Internal work

To create normal operating conditions, the cellar should be equipped with a natural ventilation system and lighting, as well as put racks and bins for storing vegetables. From the inside, the walls and ceiling of the basement will not hurt to plaster and whitewash.

We’ll give some tips for arranging the cellar:

1. Provide storage ventilation through 2 pipes - supply and exhaust, then the room will dry well. The outlet is made 30 cm above the floor, the hoods are under the ceiling. The proper organization of natural air exchange in the cellar is described in detail.
2. For safety reasons, it is better to make the basement lighting through a step-down transformer supplying 12 or 36 volts. Route all wiring in protective plastic corrugations.
3. Master racks and shelves from wood treated with antiseptic. Completely exclude metal elements.
4. If you built a small roof over the ceiling, then the ceiling must be insulated. Use polymeric materials that are not afraid of moisture - polystyrene foam, polystyrene and foam polyethylene.

Warming of the coating is made from the outside. Here simple materials will fit in - expanded clay, clay with straw or sawdust. By the way, the overlap can be cast from concrete with the addition of expanded clay or polystyrene, then the design will come out obviously lighter and warmer.

Semi-buried structures

The construction technology of such cellars differs little from the construction of deep storage facilities. The foundation pit is dug to a depth of 0.5 m above the groundwater level, after which the work is performed in the same order. For the construction of the aerial part, it is better to use warmer and lighter materials - foam concrete and aerated concrete, the simplest option is double sheets of slate with insulation in the middle.

Note. A good way to build a semi-buried cellar is to dig it on a slope or a small hill. The earth, extracted from the pit, will then go to the top backfill.

So that the ceiling can withstand the weight of the soil, it is specially made vaulted. To do this, a reinforcing or wooden frame is constructed in the form of an arch, which is subsequently poured with concrete or bricked. You will learn more visual information about the construction of bulk cellars by watching the video:

Conclusion

As you can see, self-building a cellar on the street is not too complicated, although the process itself is lengthy and time-consuming. If you want to do it cheaply and cheerfully - then dig a traditional dugout, provided that the soils allow. This option also has the right to life. But over the years of operation (and this is not less than 20 years), any basement can undergo flooding, since the level of groundwater is a variable value. The simplest solution is to add flooring to the detriment of the height of the room, another way is to collect and pump out water from the pit with a pump.

• Date: 05/30/2014
• Views: 1118
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• Rating: 44

How to cover the cellar?

Currently, several of the most common options for arranging cellars are highlighted and each of them has its own methods of overlapping. The material of this article will discuss what their main types are and how to cover the cellar in one or another version of its execution.

It is believed that the height of the earthen cellar should be on average no more than 1.6 m.

Cellar room

An earthen cellar, which provides excellent protection of potato tubers from drying out, is built on an elevated, dry place with fairly dense soil. The advantages of this type of cellar include excellent performance and simplicity of design, which does not require large expenditures of funds due to the fact that improvised materials are used for its construction.

In order to reduce soil shedding during the construction of an earthen cellar, you need to dig a pit so that its walls are with a slight slope. In the event that your land has sandy soil, the walls of the pit must be strengthened by sheathing them with wattle, boards or croaker. Using the lining, you will increase the life of the cellar and create favorable conditions for long-term storage of vegetables. On the recommendation of experts, for the possibility of drying the structure in the summer, it must be built collapsible.

As a rule, an earthen cellar is small in size, on average, its height is 1.6 m. However, if groundwater passes close enough at your site, then the height of the structure may be less.

The base of the floor is made of gravel, which, after laying, is densely compacted and covered with hot bitumen. Thus, you eliminate the formation of capillary moisture. The surface of the floor, whose thickness is approximately 10 cm, is often made of adobe by adding sifted brick gravel.

For, as a rule, poles are used, which after their laying are covered with a clay mixture and straw. Then the formed surface is covered with a layer of soil. The thickness of such a heat-insulating backfill layer should be at least 30 cm.

The construction of an earthen cellar, as a rule, provides for the construction of a gable roof from branches or slabs, the slopes of which reach the surface of the earth. To create a roof ridge, thick edged boards are used, under the bottom of which a strip of roofing felt or roofing is laid. To prevent freezing in cold winter time, the ceiling is insulated with dry oak leaves or peat.

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The cellar is built on the ground and is designed to regulate the temperature regime (preventing summer overheating and winter freezing), and it also performs the protective function of the cellar (negative impact of precipitation). Often, the cellar is used for household needs, such as storing trench tools and various materials, it can also be used for short-term storage of fruits and vegetables.

For the construction of the walls of the cellar, gardeners can use a variety of materials (concrete, natural stone, wood, brick, etc.).

Under the cellar is a buried cellar, for the construction of which a foundation pit is being dug. The bottom of a dug pit is leveled and compacted, after which it is covered with a layer of crushed stone (thickness about 10 cm). Crumpled greasy clay is laid on top of the gravel in a small layer, which is leveled and compacted. Then concrete mortar is poured on top of the clay layer. After the concrete has completely hardened (at least 7 days), we make a cement-sand screed (thickness 5 cm).

For the device of overlapping, beams are used, on top of which they build a run from boards, poles or slabs. After that, thermal insulation material is laid. This can be done with expanded clay, sifted brick gravel, moss, which is laid on a clay screed (thickness of about 3 cm). You should be aware that during the construction of the ceiling of the cellar you need to provide a hatch, under which, as a rule, an inclined wooden or metal staircase is installed.

This type of cellar uses a pitched roof made of roofing material or sheets of asbestos cement, which has large overhangs, which are necessary in order to ensure the dryness of the walls.

In this it is necessary to install a ventilation pipe, which is divided into 2 channels (inflow and outflow), this will achieve the necessary humidity and a favorable temperature in the room.

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Cellar made of natural stone

The cellar made of stone is characterized by high strength, durability and reliability. Such a room is suitable for storing not only fresh vegetables and fruits, but also for various preservation, food, while vegetables can be stored directly on the floor, and various pickles in tubs and barrels. Very often during the construction of such a cellar, special niches and shelves are provided directly in the stone walls. The main advantage of the design of such a cellar is the presence of a rather big cellar. But it should be noted that the work on creating a stone cellar is very laborious.

The choice of construction site should be taken very seriously. It must be dry and have a low level of groundwater, the location of which is allowed at a distance of at least 70 cm from the surface of the floor of the structure.

For the construction of a stone cellar, sufficiently strong material is used, such as flagstone applied to a clay solution. In this case, you should know that a small amount of lime is added to the clay solution.

Before using flagstone, it must be aged, for this, in autumn and winter it is placed under a canopy or in any other outbuilding. To prepare the masonry mortar, you need to use only homogeneous, elastic and clean clay.

The surface of the floor in the cellar is made of densely packed clay, which is pre-mixed with chopped straw, gravel and sand.

The outer side of the floor is coated with a thick lime mixture, after which a layer of clay (thickness 8 cm) and a layer of ash from the tree (thickness 10 cm) are laid, then all this “cake” is covered with a layer of dry soil or clay.

The most difficult stage of construction is the creation of vaulted roof masonry, which makes it possible to strengthen the entire structure under construction.

This happens due to the correctness of the design and the laying of the odd stone, which closes and wedges the arch.

For the possibility of descent into the cellar, a stone or wooden staircase is installed. In this cellar, the air is ventilated thanks to the slots of the access hatch, this is quite enough to maintain a favorable temperature and the necessary humidity level in the room.

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Cellar Ground Construction

This kind of cellar will not take up much space on your site, it is a wooden box with small dimensions, the thermal insulation of which can be done with expanded clay, mineral wool or dry leaves. The very simple design of such a cellar allows it to be used even in places where the groundwater level is quite close to the surface.

An earth excavation, 30-50 cm deep, is done on a dry hill, on which a layer of plant soil is previously removed. The bottom of the groove made is filled up by 7-10 cm with a drainage pillow, which consists of sand with a large and small fraction, after which it is compacted. The construction of this pillow is necessary to ensure that there is no dampness in the cellar. On top of the draining pillow lies a layer (15-20 cm thick) of crumpled clay, into which the red brick is immersed.

Exactly the same red brick is used to build the side walls of the excavation, after which they are finished with a mixture of clay and lime. Above ground level, the walls should protrude at a distance of no more than 30 cm.

To protect the cellar from freezing during cold winter time, its ceiling should be double. For this, thick boards are used, between which the insulation material is covered. Warming, as a rule, is carried out with the help of sawdust, moss, dry leaves, expanded clay, mineral wool and even crushed stone. According to experts, it is not recommended to use mineral wool, since after some time it simply cakes, thereby losing its heat-insulating properties. When using sawdust, you should know that before they are laid, they must be treated with an antiseptic. Or you can just mix them with lime (the proportion of lime and sawdust is 1: 9).

The hatch in this design of the cellar is located on the front side. As a rule, it is made with 2 doors (outer and inner door), between which thermal insulation material is placed.

Air ventilation is carried out with the help of a ventilation pipe, which is wound from the outside with a frequent mesh.

To divert water from the structure, you need to dig a drainage ditch at a certain distance (1-2 m) along its entire perimeter, and from the walls, with a slight slope, make a blind area from clay and gravel.

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Scheme labaza for vegetables.

Vegetable sheds are very common among owners of summer cottages, as it is convenient for storing vegetables and is characterized by the simplicity of the frame structure, for the construction of which skinned logs are used. As a rule, it is done on areas of soil with high humidity.

Significant financial investments are not needed for the construction of such a cellar, based on the fact that it does not have an insulated ceiling, that is, a ceiling.

A vegetable storehouse is constructed from thin logs by digging them into the ground to a depth of about 0.5 m. At the same time, the upper ends of the mounted logs are tied together using long poles. To carry out construction work, it is necessary to use only a “new” tree, which has not been used anywhere before, since this will make it possible to exclude infection with a fungus that destroys the wood.

In order to increase the service life of such a cellar, the lower part of the logs, which will be located in the ground, must be treated with a special solution in advance. Very often, gardeners for this purpose use hot bitumen or protect wood by burning, so you will increase the life of the logs by at least 2 times.

The ventilation scheme in the cellar.

The roof for this type of cellar is made of a pair of layers of roofing material, by laying it on a continuous crate of boards. This will be enough to protect the structure from drafts. The upper part of the vegetable storehouse is bunded with a pre-prepared mixture of peat and ground, since peat has a poor heat conductivity, and the top of this embankment can be planted with grass or sod laid on it.

It is very convenient to use in that it allows you to save space on a suburban area. Entrance to the store is carried out directly from the summer kitchen. It is in many ways similar to a garage cellar.

For this type of storage, the excavation pit is constructed small so as not to complicate its work by filling in the sinuses, but nevertheless, each side of the excavation should be 0.5 m more than the design dimensions of the cellar, this is necessary for more convenience in carrying out construction work.

In the constructed foundation pit, the bottom is covered with a small layer of gravel (thickness 8-10 cm), after which it is compacted and covered with hot bitumen to protect the base from water penetration.

For the construction of walls (thickness 20-30 cm), dense concrete with mandatory reinforcement is used. For these purposes, reinforcement or steel bars are excellent. After the concrete walls are completely dry, their surface is finished with plaster (cement mortar with sand) with a layer thickness of 1 to 2 cm.

The overlap of such a cellar or the floor of the summer kitchen is double, with insulation. To provide the cellar with the necessary waterproofing, the basement of the summer kitchen foundation, and this will be the upper part of the storage walls, is finished with several layers of roofing material.

The cellar is an important element of any suburban area, it is indispensable for the storage of vegetables, fruits and preservation. The article contains information on how to build a cellar in the country with your own hands: a step-by-step description will help to take into account a lot of nuances, starting from the right choice of place and ending with the installation of waterproofing and. The external arrangement of the building is also of great importance, and the construction of shelving and boxes will help to effectively use the space.

Do not confuse the cellar and basement. Do-it-yourself construction of a cellar in the country can be reduced to a simple digging out of a pit and its minimal arrangement. The choice of the type of structure depends on many parameters, for example, on its purpose, on the climatic conditions of the region, financial capabilities, etc. Also, when choosing the type and materials for building a cellar in the country house, you need to take into account its location.

It is easier to build a separate building than, for example, to build a cellar under a house, but this option will require more materials, and therefore finance. Making a storehouse under a residential building or an outbuilding will cost less, but this option is limited in space.

One of the most popular options is the glacier cellar. It copes with the function of long-term storage of products even in the hot season and is especially in demand in the southern regions. It is quite difficult and expensive to build this type of cellar in a private house with your own hands, but the result is characterized by high performance, durability and reliability.

Another good option for this building is a storehouse of two sections. Typically, this type is used when you need to avoid mixing the smells of various vegetables and fruits, which are simultaneously stored in the cellar. To build such a storage facility, less materials are needed than for a glacier.

A separate type of cellar is wine. It is used to store wine products, has its own design features and nuances that must be taken into account in order to carry out the correct construction of the cellar. As a rule, in such a storage you can store not only wine, but also various preservation.

The nuances of arranging a cellar with your own hands at a high level of groundwater

When choosing a place for storage, it is very important to take into account factors such as total soil moisture and groundwater level. The lower it is, the easier it will be to build the structure, and less likely to need repairs. If we are talking about a separate building, then it is worth choosing the highest place on your site. It is best to determine the level of groundwater when it is maximum, that is, in spring or autumn. If there is a well or a well on the site, then you can determine the maximum mark from them, otherwise you will have to drill the well separately.

A little more difficult will be the construction of the cellar, if near groundwater. How to do it as efficiently as possible? First of all, much attention needs to be paid to the waterproofing of the structure. Also, with increased soil moisture, for better waterproofing the cellar from groundwater, it is worthwhile to use building materials characterized by increased resistance to water. In this case, do not use wood or plywood, but rather give preference to concrete and brick.

Useful advice!   You can check the groundwater level according to folk signs. To do this, leave a piece of wool and a chicken egg at the construction site, and cover them with a clay pot on top. If in the morning there will be dew on both the wool and the egg, then the groundwater is close, and if only on the wool - far.

Do-it-yourself recommendations for building a cellar: how to do it as efficiently as possible

Regardless of which type of structure you have chosen or what materials you intend to use, there are a number of general recommendations that you should follow when building a cellar with your own hands:

• if you are going to use wooden elements, then they must be pre-treated with special impregnation to protect against the harmful effects of moisture;
• the construction of the cellar is best started in the summer, then the groundwater level is at the lowest level. In this case, the soil will be the driest, and the risk of flooding the structure will be minimal;
• to ensure effective storage of products, it is very important to think through a ventilation system;
• if you want the structure to maintain the desired temperature, it is recommended that when building the cellar do it yourself, make two doors separated by a vestibule;

• special attention also needs to be paid to thermal insulation, then the optimal temperature in the cellar will be provided at any time of the year;
• the choice of tools and materials for construction is very important, so you should familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages of various types in advance. The construction itself must be carried out in a clearly recommended order.

Features of using various materials

Most often, materials such as brick or concrete blocks are used in the construction. They best tolerate high humidity and low temperatures, and are also characterized by durability, reliability and relatively low cost. When building a brick cellar with your own hands, it is worth considering the characteristics of the operational characteristics of each of the varieties of this material:

• cinder block or foam brick is characterized by increased fragility, therefore, these varieties are not recommended for use in the construction of underground storage;
• silicate brick is more durable, but it reacts very poorly to high humidity. This means that the construction of it will not be able to boast a long service life;

• red brick is an ideal option for a cellar in a private house. How to make the construction of this material as efficient as possible, you can learn from the numerous step-by-step instructions from specialists.

If you decide to use concrete blocks in the construction, then you definitely need specialized construction equipment, as they are characterized by high weight. The cellar will last a long time and will keep the temperature well.

Also, when building a cellar in the house with your own hands, you can use a brick that was already in use, if its condition allows. And in the event that you are just going to sheathe an earthen hole with wooden boards, they must be carefully treated with antiseptics to prevent rot.

Note!   The use of concrete slabs reinforced with metal is also possible. But in this case, it will be difficult to maintain the desired temperature, so this material should not be used for the building in which you are going to store the products.

Do-it-yourself cellar in the country house: a step-by-step guide for building

Strict adherence to the sequence of actions is the key to the correct cellar. How to make the construction as efficient as possible, spending a minimum of time and effort on this? For this, installation work must be performed in a specific order.

Pit arrangement

Sod is removed from the selected site, after which the land is leveled and marking is performed. Many do-it-yourself photos of the cellar show that specialized construction equipment is often used to equip the pit, but if this is not possible, you can use shovels and spades. The advantage of working with a hand tool is that it allows you to save the structure of the soil. If the earth in the selected area is loose, then the walls of the pit should go downhill to avoid shedding.

The dimensions of the cellar depend solely on your needs, but remember that the size of the pit should be 0.5 m larger than the size of the structure itself. In the process of how you build a cellar with your own hands, the excavated fertile land can be distributed over the summer cottage. The flatness of the bottom after completion of work must be measured with a level and corrected, if necessary.

Foundation construction

Although you can do without this stage (just by filling the bottom of the foundation pit with rubble or bitumen), the arrangement of the foundation will increase the level of waterproofing the cellar from groundwater. How to make the foundation as efficient as possible, but not particularly expensive? To do this, you can use a reinforcing frame, on top of which concrete mixture is poured. The recommended height of the foundation is about 40 cm. Installation of the foundation is a prerequisite for the construction of a cellar in the cottage with your own hands, if groundwater is close. How to make the foundation right - tell thematic videos on the Internet.

Walling

If you use brick to build a cellar under the house with your own hands, then you will need a number of specialized tools. These include a trowel, a construction cord, a mason's hammer, a construction level, and a bucket for mortar. For more efficient work, you should take the help of another person.

A mixture of clay and sand or cement can be used as a mortar connecting bricks. When constructing an underground or above-ground cellar with your own hands, the masonry should start from the corners, and the first row is laid without using mortar, in order to more accurately plan the position of the wall. The bricks of the following rows in the mortar must be recessed until the thickness of the seam is approximately 12 mm.

Useful advice! Be sure to use the building level and plumb when laying walls. With the help of the first, it is checked how smoothly the brick is laid, and with the second - the correctness of the angles.

DIY cellar ceiling installation

When building a ceiling, it is best to use wooden planks. If the structure is being built under the house, then you can use beams as the ceiling, and the ceiling of the land cellar in the country house with your own hands is step by step made from PCG or slate plates. In this case, the surface may be flat or gable.

The thermal insulation of the ceiling is done according to the same principle as the thermal insulation of a conventional roof - the gap between the wooden beams and the roofing material is filled with a layer of thermal insulation.

Types and features of floor installation in the cellar

There are many different options for arranging the floor in the cellar, which is better - depends on your preferences, the purpose of the building, the characteristics of the soil and other factors. You should also familiarize yourself with the specifics of each method in advance, this will help to quickly and efficiently build a cellar with your own hands. Both video and photo instructions can greatly facilitate the installation process.

Earthen floor   - The easiest and cheapest option. There is a misconception that the correct floor in the cellar should only be earthen, but this is not so. Even a well-compacted soil will not protect the room from moisture and mold.

If you still decide to make an underground floor in the cellar, then the base must be carefully leveled and tamped, after which a layer of gravel about 10 cm thick is poured. The advantage of this option is the zero installation cost, but there are much more disadvantages. These include a high risk of flooding and a high likelihood that metal elements will rust and wooden elements will rot.

Concrete floor   - A good option to protect the room from high groundwater. Concrete screed can act not only as a floor covering, but also as a basis for the installation of other materials.

For the construction of a concrete floor, it is very important to level the surface, after which a pillow of crushed stone and sand with a thickness of 15-20 cm is mounted. The sand must be carefully moistened and tamped, and pour bitumen on top. In order for the concrete base to be as strong as possible, a metal grill can be installed on top of the bitumen layer. After that, you can start pouring concrete.

You can mount a waterproofing layer both on a sand cushion and on top of concrete. In the second case, another concrete layer must be poured on top.

Clay floor   - A reliable, but very time-consuming, installation option. It requires a large amount of high-quality material, so it is rarely used. Clay is considered one of the most environmentally friendly materials. It is laid on a base of crushed stone with a thickness of 10-15 cm, which can be impregnated with bitumen. For clay, it is worthwhile to mount a waterproofing layer of roofing material or other material, and cracks that may form after drying are closed with a clay-lime mixture.

Brick coating   - strong, durable and characterized by attractive appearance. In addition, the material is quite cheap and easy to install. The brick floor is laid on a pillow of fine gravel or gravel, a solution of clay is poured on top. Bricks are slightly recessed into the solution close to each other. Also, cement mortar can be hammered into the joints between bricks with a stiff brush.

Wooden floor - used in ground versions of the cellar or where groundwater is located very deep. Before installation, the tree must be treated with special impregnations to extend the service life. Wooden boards are mounted on top of logs made of timber, which, in turn, are laid on the base of crushed stone and clay. It is best to screw boards with self-tapping screws, but you can simply nail them with nails.

Note! For each of the materials you will need a separate set of tools, the acquisition of which is better to attend to in advance.

Design and installation of ventilation systems

If you are building a ground structure, the air can flow into the cellar naturally through small openings. For underground construction, ventilation should be supply and exhaust. The exhaust pipe outlet should be located near the ceiling, and the suction pipe should be near the floor. Many photos of the cellar in the country house do-it-yourself show that the ventilation outlet openings are equipped with special curtains, this allows you to more accurately control the temperature in the room.

Installation of stairs and doors

If the cellar is being built under the house or, if necessary, save space, it’s worth making an almost vertical staircase to the cellar with your own hands. How to make it as safe as possible for the descent? Handrails are recommended. Photos of the stairs to the cellar with their own hands show, then it can be built from wooden boards fixed directly in the ground, as well as from brick or other materials.

Doors are mounted in ground-based versions of the design, in other cases a hatch is used. Making a hatch in the cellar with your own hands is quite simple.

Manufacturing the hatch

If the cellar is located under a house or outbuilding, then a hatch is used as an entrance wall. You can buy a hatch for the cellar, or you can do it yourself. The second option will allow you to get a design that exactly matches your needs. Self-installation includes the following steps:

• a place is chosen for future entry. It is very important that access to it is as simple as possible and not cluttered with shelves, drawers and other items;
• the dimensions of the hatch are determined. It all depends on your needs, but its parameters should not be less than 75x75 cm. In order for the room to be airtight, the side faces of the hatch must be sheathed with a sealant;
• a manhole cover is made in the cellar. How to make it light and durable? To do this, it is best to use wooden boards soaked with varnish. They are interconnected by slats, and on one side of the lid a sheet of plywood is nailed. If we are talking about a cellar in a residential building, then the top of the manhole cover can be sheathed with the same floor covering as the floor around it. It should be borne in mind that if it is planned to equip the hatch for the cellar under the tile, its design should be made of sufficiently durable materials that can withstand all ceramics. If you prefer to use steel, then for the lid you will need a sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm, which is welded to a metal frame;

• the handle is attached. The best option is a special hidden or folding design. If the cellar is in a non-residential premises or there is a need to save money, then you can use the usual door handle;
• hinges are screwed. It can be ordinary door hinges or car hinges with springs. The latter option will make it easier to open the lid and fix it in any position.

There are many answers to the question of how to make a hatch in the cellar with your own hands, so you should choose the option that is most suitable in your particular case.

Wiring and lighting

Due to the fact that the design of the cellar provides for increased humidity, the wiring in it must necessarily be reliably insulated. The best option for wiring are copper wires with a double layer of insulation. Bulbs should be placed in the driest places and additionally equipped with protective caps. It is strictly forbidden to make sockets during the construction of the cellar. How to make the wiring as safe as possible can be seen on the training videos from specialists.

Installation of waterproofing in the cellar

As already mentioned, isolation from moisture is a very important point in the construction of a cellar in the country with your own hands. How to make waterproofing the most effective - there are a lot of options, and the choice of the optimal one depends on the level of soil moisture and structural features of the building.

Waterproofing can be external or internal. External is done at the construction stage, while the walls of the outside are sheathed with insulating materials, and gutters, drainage wells and other structures are mounted. Internal insulation is done after the cellar is built. In this case, before using insulating materials, groundwater should be diverted, otherwise the work will be ineffective.

Types of materials used for internal waterproofing

If you made a cellar in the country with your own hands made of waterproof concrete, then you are unlikely to need additional cladding with insulating material. But for a brick structure, you can use the following waterproofing options:

• mastic or bitumen - used in cases where the groundwater level is below the floor. The solution is heated and applied in a thin layer on the walls, resulting in a reliable waterproof film;

•   - The most expensive, but also the most effective option. It is good because it increases not only the level of moisture resistance of the walls, but also their frost resistance. Also, penetrating waterproofing reliably closes all cracks and micropores, is characterized by a long service life and is quickly mounted;
• cement-based polymer solution - is one of the most reliable and easy to apply materials for waterproofing. It fits snugly against the walls and reliably protects them from mechanical damage;
• membrane type waterproofing - consists of various polymers, among which liquid rubber based on bitumen is very popular.

Note! It is very important to have effective ventilation for reliable waterproofing of the cellar in the country with your own hands. How to build a ventilation system so that excess moisture does not condense in the storage? For this, the installation of a supply and exhaust system is best suited.

Installation procedure for waterproofing

Numerous photos of the cellar in a private house show that waterproofing can be hidden under decorative wall panels. This is not a prerequisite, but only affects the appearance of the walls. The nuances of installing a waterproofing layer depend on the type of material selected.

Do-it-yourself waterproofing using bitumen or mastic for the walls of the cellar under the house is usually not difficult. To do this, you need to plaster the walls first, and the waterproofing itself is best applied in two layers. Before the final drying of the coating, it is recommended to sprinkle it with fine dry sand.

Before installing penetrating waterproofing, the surface of the walls must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust, and then moistened with water. After applying the insulation layer for several days, it must also be constantly moistened. Concrete walls before installing penetrating waterproofing are treated with a metal brush.

To apply liquid rubber, the walls must be leveled and cleaned. After that, the surface is primed and a waterproofing material is applied to it with a brush, spatula or roller. Finishing materials can be mounted directly on a layer of liquid rubber after it dries. In the photo of the wine cellars, for example, it can be seen that the walls are sheathed with wooden panels.

The cement-polymer mixture is applied to well-moistened walls with a notched trowel or brush. It is best to do this in several layers.

Do-it-yourself shelving in a cellar: photos and instructions

Shelves and racks are integral elements of any cellar and basement. There are several types of racks for the cellar, which you can buy in specialized stores, but it is much easier and more economical to do them yourself. The most popular options are as follows:

• wooden shelving is one of the most common answers to the question of what to make a shelf in the cellar. The material is environmentally friendly and easy to use, and for shelving it is best to use a beam with a cross section of 100x100 mm and a board 3-4 cm thick. The installation diagram is very simple - racks are made from a bar in which the nests for fixing the shelves are sawn. In order for the wooden shelves to last longer, they are impregnated with special compounds;

• concrete shelving is a good option if you want to know how to make shelves in the cellar as durable and moisture resistant as possible. To create concrete shelves, you can use reinforced concrete slabs or niches in the walls, which are poured with concrete screed;
• shelves from a steel corner - are used in rooms with a low level of humidity, otherwise designs can very quickly begin to rust. In order to make a shelf in the cellar for cans, as a rule, a welding machine is used, but you can do with simple self-tapping screws. First, frames are made of metal battens, then shelves are attached to them;
• plastic shelving is one of the most economical and simplest options, which is distinguished by its attractive appearance and resistance to moisture. However, plastic does not tolerate very low temperatures, so it cannot boast of durability.

Useful advice! When wondering how to make a shelf in a cellar with your own hands, and what material to choose for this, consider the level of humidity in the room, as well as the average weight of the cans and boxes that will be stored on the shelves. Concrete perfectly withstands even a very large load, but plastic can not boast of this.

Of the same materials, you can make potato boxes in the cellar. As a rule, they are equipped with removable covers, which are installed if necessary. Regardless of which material you choose, in the warmer months, shelves and drawers are recommended to be taken outside for drying. This will prevent the occurrence of mold and the multiplication of pathogens.

When the construction and internal arrangement of the cellar is completed, you can think about the external decoration of the ground structure. Its option depends solely on your preferences - you can just pour an earthen hill, or you can decorate it with turf or decorative grass, turning it into an element of landscape design. Use video and photo instructions during the construction of the cellar with your own hands, which will help to take into account all the nuances and equip a practical and functional room.

Nowadays, almost every family has a personal plot in the form of a small summer residence, where townspeople plant vegetables, take care of fruit trees and grow flower crops for their pleasure.

However, in the fall, many owners begin to wonder where to store all the vegetables and fruits collected in the garden.

An ideal option for this is the cellar, in which the optimum temperature for storing billets and vegetables is kept all year round.

In this article we will talk about how to build a cellar without unnecessary costs, which requirements and recommendations must be observed during construction.

The construction of the cellar and its differences from the basement

Between the cellar and the basement there are serious differences.

Materials required for the construction of the cellar

Materials such as concrete, cinder blocks and bricks.

Porous materials, such as expanded polystyrene, they will easily let air and moisture into the room, so additional costs can go to waterproofing and ventilation.

For the construction of a cellar do it yourself will need:

• crushed stone and gravel;
• river sand;
• clay;
• roofing material;
• cement;
• bricks;
• ceiling slabs.

The main stages of the construction of a buried cellar

Preparing a foundation pit and a solid basement for a cellar

Choosing a place for the construction of the cellar, and having decided on the size of the structure, it is necessary clean the surface of the soil from vegetation, stones and sticks.

In order for the cellar to be strong and serve you for many years, it is important to dig a foundation pit and prepare the foundation for filling the floor and installing walls:

• First you need dig a hole of a certain depth, depending on what type of cellar you have chosen. In our case, the height of the structure will be about 2.5 meters. In addition, it should be borne in mind that part of the space will occupy a place for entrance or a hatch, stairs and racks, so the foundation pit should be dug with a margin that will depend on your preferences

Useful advice!   Before digging a pit, the meteorological forecast for the coming week should be clarified, since the presence of precipitation can significantly complicate the construction process.

• After preparing the foundation pit, it is necessary to process the basement of the cellar, level and compact topsoil. The floor in the cellar should be stable and even. To get rid of excess moisture, we need to fill the bottom of the cellar with a layer of rubble or gravel high up to 30 cm.

Pouring clay and concrete on the floor

  To build a floor in the cellar, you need knead clay solution   with a small content of quartz sand (not more than 10% of the total clay) with water.

The consistency should be thick sour cream. The resulting mass in an even layer pour gravel to a height of about 3 cm.

So that the structure will serve you for many years, the clay floor will not be enough, so many strengthen it and poured concrete. For this, a reinforced mesh is installed on the dried clay layer to strengthen the flooring.

On top of it, it is necessary to pour a layer of concrete mortar to a height of approximately 5 cm.

To prepare a concrete mortar, it is necessary to take five parts of river sand and one part of high-quality cement. For example, on 1 kg   cement we should take 5 kg   sand.

Most often, on packages with cement the proportions of the necessary materials are indicated, so it is better to follow these recommendations. Bay basement cellar mortar on 5 cm, it is necessary to level it and give a couple of weeks to dry completely.

The construction of the walls in the cellar

  An important stage in the construction of the cellar is walling. Consider the rules for building brick walls step by step:

1. Before you build walls, you need them level with a shovel or trowelso that the brickwork is as even as possible
2. A prerequisite for bricklaying is foundation cleared of earth and pieces of clayon which the first layer will fall. The foundation is necessary for the stability of brick walls. For its construction, the remaining concrete mortar, which was used when filling the floor, is used. The width and height of the foundation depends on what kind of load will be placed on it in the future. Usually the width of the walls is made of 1 brick, so we fill the foundation so that it protrudes above the floor at 15 cm   and let it dry
3. The start of masonry should begin from the corner of the wall where the doorway will be. Masonry must be staggered, that is, starting from a whole brick, the second layer will start with half the brick, the third with the whole and so on
4. Laying a brick on the foundation, you need it every time tapping   with a trowel handle for better bonding and for excess solution to come out. In order for the walls to be even and strong, it is necessary to check each row erected using the building level
5. Cement mortar for bonding bricks is prepared in the ratio 4 parts sand to 1 part cement powder
6. Along with cement, experts recommend preparing a thick clay solution by mixing clay and water in the ratio 2 × 1that needs to fill the free space between the earthen wall and the brickwork. This will serve as an additional layer of waterproofing.

After the construction of the walls it is necessary to allow the solution to solidify for about for a week, after which it is possible to draw up ceiling ceilings with a ventilation system and waterproofing.

Waterproofing

  Availability waterproofing layer   is a necessary requirement in the construction of the cellar.

The most popular wall insulation materials are ruberoid or hydrostekloizol. In addition, experts advise to treat the walls and floor with a special waterproof composition.

So, after we processed the brick water repellent, it is necessary to waterproof the walls with roofing material and cement.

Wall mounted 2 - 3 layers of roofing material   using heated bitumen, after which they must be plastered with cement mortar.

Hot bitumen is a molten bitumen mastic from hydrocarbons and their derivatives. It is a bonding material that has water repellent properties.

Floor construction

Cellar Overlap   should be as strong and reliable as possible.

For the construction of the ceiling in our cellar we use metal channelsrepresenting metal structures of a U-shaped look.

Due to the fact that the weight of the ceiling is very large, you should build it yourself supportssupporting the ceiling. First, a base is made of four boards fastened together, wooden supports are installed on them.