Properly build a shower in the country. How to make a summer shower of wood with your own hands

Optimum capacity - from 100 to 200 liters. Additionally, the roof can be covered galvanized metal or lay a foil under the barrel - the sun's rays will be reflected from the polished surface and absorbed by the walls of the barrel, thereby accelerating the process of heating the water.

A plastic or metal pipe with a tap and a watering can is mounted to the tank. To do this, a suitable hole is cut out or drilled in the bottom of the barrel, through which a pipe with an external thread at the end is passed. Rubber seals are placed on top and bottom, and then the pipe is tightened with a nut. The faucet (valve) is installed using a tee, to the lower end of which a watering can is attached with or without a hose (depending on the wishes of the owner).

Door installation

At the final stage, a door is installed. For fastening loops are used. Additionally, you can install an internal deadbolt and an outer hook. Inside, the cabin is equipped with towel hooks and a hanging soap dish. On this, construction work is considered completed.

Summertime gives us warm sun, greenery, flowers and a great opportunity to take a shower in the fresh air. After the crowded city apartment, this procedure brings a pleasant feeling of renewal and unity with nature.

Despite the simplicity of the design of a street shower, there are many interesting options for its implementation. We will get acquainted with the most interesting and profitable for construction on a summer cottage in this article.

Options for a summer shower for a summer residence

It's no secret that you can build a summer shower for a summer house from different materials. For the frame, you can take profile metal or a wooden bar. To fill the walls of the cabin, cellular polycarbonate, corrugated board, tarpaulin, plastic film, siding, blockhouse are optimally suitable.

In addition to using the frame structure, the walls of the shower can be folded from blocks or bricks. The washing compartment can be single or interlocked with a toilet. This solution reduces the cost of construction and allows you to rationally use the area of \u200b\u200bthe site (photo No. 1).

Photo No. 1 “Two in one” - a popular way to combine a shower with a toilet

The simplest and most affordable outdoor shower is a frame made of wooden bars sheathed with a planed board (photo No. 2-3).

Photo No. 2-3 Outdoor shower with a cabin made of timber and planks

Photo No. 4 An example of the simplest prefabricated structure made of timber and boards, which can be closed with an awning

The main thing to pay attention in this case is the strength of the frame on which the container will stand. The racks of the frame must be protected from decay and strengthened by corner braces. The concrete floor can be replaced with a standard shower tray by sending soapy water from it to a common septic tank.

Photo No. 5-6-7 Options for interesting, but at the same time simple wooden showers

If you have a grinder and welding, then you can make a summer shower with your own hands from a metal profile and cover its walls with tarpaulin. If there is no welding machine, then the frame is assembled using threaded joints, and the corners are reinforced with steel “kerchief” plates (photo No. 8-9).

Photo №8-9 Outdoor shower made of metal profile covered with tarpaulin

This shower option is more convenient than a single cabin, because it has two isolated compartments: for undressing and washing.

Photo 10 shows a garden shower popular among summer residents. It also uses a metal supporting frame, but the sidewall filling is made of a film screen worn on rings and a cord.

Photo No. 10 Shower cubicle with a metal frame and a screen made of plastic film

The metal base of the cabin is easily combined with corrugated board. This results in a simple and reliable design, well protected from the wind (photo No. 11).

Photo No. 11 Shower cubicle sheathed with corrugated board

Photo No. 12 Garden shower with locker room (220x100) from profiled sheet and pipes

In the factory, the cabins for the summer shower are most often made using two materials: a profile pipe and polycarbonate sheet. If you want to save, the same design can be assembled by independent efforts. It turns out aesthetically, durable and practical (photo No. 13-14).

Photo No. 13-14 An excellent shower for a summer residence - a profile pipe and cellular polycarbonate

Dimensions of this design are designed to install a flat plastic tank with a "watering can."

The shape of the shower does not have to be rectangular and closed on three sides. Photo No. 15 shows an interesting solution based on a wooden beam wall and a metal pipe along which the screen moves. You can’t put a heavy tank on such a shower. It is designed to supply heated water from a domestic water supply.

Photo №15 Original “corner” outdoor shower

A frame for a summer shower is not needed if you attach it to the wall of the house. To do this, lining it with waterproof material and bring to the surface the mixer with a hose. Having covered the floor with large pebbles and made a simple drainage, you will get what you dreamed about: a cozy corner for water procedures, filled with air and light (photo No. 16). If you do not like the open version of the wall-mounted shower, then put a light against the wall as in photo No. 17.

Photo No. 16-17 You can take a shower in the summer not only in the booth, but also near the wall of the building, and the enclosure of the wall shower will protect you from prying eyes

Weaving plants can be successfully used to fill the walls of a street shower. All that is needed for such a solution is a lattice screen of mesh, on which ivy, hops or grapes weave a living carpet.

When considering the materials from which you can build a shower structure, do not forget about natural stone. The option presented in photo No. 18 will perfectly complement the landscape design.

Photo No. 18 A wall made of wild stone curled up by a “snail” is the best place to place a summer shower

In this case, the laying of the fence was done dry, without using a solution. He is not needed here, therefore, a flat stone was used in the work. It holds firmly in the wall array due to its weight. The considered option does not imply the installation of a container, since its appearance will spoil the beauty of stone lace. Water is supplied to the shower head from an external water supply.

If your site has an old tree, do not rush to cut it for firewood. Its trunk can be used as an original installation for a summer shower. Surround it with a concrete wall of a curved shape, and your creativity will delight your neighbors and friends (photo No. 19).

Photo No. 19 An old tree on the site is not a hindrance, but the basis of the original shower design

Continuing the review of options for a summer shower, we note that it can be built not only from purchased materials, but also from inexpensive materials at hand.

In photo No. 20 you see such a design. The frame is made of wooden blocks. As a fence, weaving from willow vines, which grows near summer cottages, was used.

Photo No. 20 Simple, inexpensive and beautiful - a wooden frame lined with willow vine

When planning to build an economic block of brick in the country, do not forget to plan a shower compartment in it (photo No. 21-22).

Photo №21-22 Compact hozblok "shower-shed" of blocks

On the solid stone walls of such a structure, you can easily install any volume and shape.

Estimated cost of finished options

Factory-made showers are available in several versions. In some, the metal frame is equipped with a screen made of synthetic fabric. Others are sheathed with cellular polycarbonate or made entirely of modular plastic panels. The buyer is offered two planning solutions: an outdoor shower with a dressing room and without it.

The average price of a street shower with a moisture-proof awning and a plastic 200-liter tank (with heating) is 15,000 rubles. For a frame-tent structure, supplemented by a locker room and a washstand, you will have to pay at least 18,000 rubles.

A single cabin made of cellular polycarbonate on a galvanized frame with a heated 200-liter tank can be bought at a price of 20,000 rubles. This design can be supplemented with a locker room, paying about 5,000 rubles for it.

A summer shower cabin made of plastic on a metal frame equipped with a heated tank will cost no less than 24,000 rubles.

Note that prices can vary greatly in the regions of the Russian Federation, so you can get the most current information from local manufacturers.

How to build a summer shower with your own hands?

The choice of material in this case depends on the set of tools that you have. If there is no welding machine and grinder on the farm, then the frame is made of planed bars. You can sheathe it with a board, plastic lining or just fix the film waterproof material on the racks.

A polycarbonate summer shower on a metal profile is more durable than a wooden one and not much more difficult to assemble. For this work, it is necessary to prepare a steel corner 50x50mm or a profile pipe with a section of 40x20mm (wall thickness 2 mm). The number of purchased profiles is calculated based on the dimensions of the shower: height 2.1 meters, length and width - 1 meter.

The dimensions of the cab may differ from those indicated, since its length and width depend on the dimensions of the purchased tank. The length of the racks must be taken 10 cm more than the height of the frame (for concreting).

It is more convenient to assemble the sidewalls on a flat asphalt or concrete platform, using welder magnets to fix the profiles.

The sequence of operations looks like this:

1. In pairs, we lay two racks and two crossbars on the site and weld them with an overlap.
2. Having installed the side frames vertically, we grasp two transverse profiles to them by welding, check the angles and fix the joints with a working seam.
3. After pouring a concrete screed under the shower stall, we put in it a finished frame so that the legs of the racks are immersed in concrete. We check the verticality of the installation (if necessary, adjust the depth of embedment of the racks in the screed).

After that, it remains to weld the door frame and fix the hinges on it. The work is completed by cutting cellular polycarbonate and fixing it with self-tapping screws to the shower frame. To collect water, you can use a steel pan or, at the concreting stage, make a drain channel by installing a gangway and sewer into it.

A hot day, you are in the country, you need to do something, but you don’t feel like it at all. Is that familiar? I would like to freshen up, but there is no river nearby, but it is still not possible to equip the pool. A simple summer shower for do-it-yourself cottages is an excellent solution to the problem of heat and fatigue. In just a minute, even a small stream of water will refresh and make you more cheerful.

This building has another practical purpose - care about our health. It is very important to periodically wash away the accumulated dust, in which, for example, particles of fertilizer may be present. Doctors note that summer residents, who put off all hygiene procedures to a comfortable home bathroom, very often then go to doctors with skin diseases and gastrointestinal problems.

This building has many options. Both technically and aesthetically. The principles of the device of any country shower are the same: you will need a frame, a fence, a tank and a floor (pallet). But the incarnations can be very different.

The easiest option is to take a bucket, punch a dozen holes in its bottom and hang it in a convenient place. The advantage of this option is its absolute availability. But still ten liters of water may not be enough. And from the point of view of aesthetics, such a soul will draw a maximum of one point. But nothing needs to be built.

If you are not looking for simple solutions, then a garden shower for a summer residence can be made of wood, various plastics, metal profiles. Each option has its own tricks and pros with minuses. For example, a summer shower made of wood with your own hands can be built using a large number of design options, but plastic and metal do not require special protective treatment.

Summer summer shower can be made of wood or decking

From the very beginning it is very important to consider how many people will use the shower and how often. Two key points depend on this: tank size and special drainage.

The comfort of using a shower can also be at different levels. If possible, it is better to equip not just a shower, but with a dressing room. Then your things will definitely stay dry. And just the highest chic is a whole house in which there is immediately a shower and a toilet plus a dressing room. Of course, this is the most expensive and time-consuming option.

A little trick: Water will heat up faster if you pick up a black shower tank.

Where to put?

The place for the installation of a summer shower should be sunny and remote from trees and any buildings. This is important because the sun works as a water heater. The second point - do not put a shower where the soil is noticeably lowered, otherwise the flow of water will be difficult. The stock itself needs special care.

For example, with infrequent use and a small amount of water, a small drainage layer under the pallet is enough. And if a shower is built for a family of several people who plan to wash often, it is better to provide a septic tank. Moreover, arranging it directly under the base of the shower is undesirable, otherwise unpleasant odors can go. It will be enough to retreat 2-3 meters from the structure.

Another trick: In the vicinity of the country shower, you can plant moisture-loving crops - they will provide natural drainage and decorate the place.

We are working!

After you have decided on the place, structure and material, it's time to build a shower for a summer residence, step-by-step instructions to help you.

1. Prepare the foundation for the future shower: choose the direction of flow and make the corresponding slope.
2. If a drainage pit is provided, dig it out at a pre-selected location. Depth - 2-3 meters, diameter - to place old tires or a barrel without a bottom. At the bottom of the pit there should be a small layer of sand or gravel.

   

3. From the future shower to the pit make stock: dig a groove, put in it waterproofing layer. You can use roofing material, hydroglass glass or film, pour concrete with reinforcement. It is not recommended to use clay for this, it tends to erode over time, which will lead to contamination of the drainage ditch.
4. When the drain and pit are equipped, they must be closed. You can use gratings or spreads. This is especially important if there are children and / or animals at the site.
5. Now you can install the supports for the frame. The standard way to build an outdoor shower in the country is to make four supports with a diameter of 10 cm, installed in one and a half meter deeps and poured with concrete as the foundation (of course, if the shower is not planned to be moved anywhere). Supports should be 20-30 cm above the surface.
   
6. As a frame, a 10 by 10 cm beam or metal pipes is used. Be sure to check the vertical with a level or plumb! This basis should be allowed to settle for 2-3 days. If the design of the shower does not imply such complex work, then all the same installation begins with the verticals of the frame. The height of the building should be 2.5-3 m, and the area of \u200b\u200bthe shower compartment - at least 1x1 m.
7. The next stage is the upper and lower harness.
8. If the building has a roof, then this is the next step. In some cases, the roof serves itself.
9. A water tank is usually a plastic or metal barrel or tank (100 or 200 liters). Before installing on the roof of the cabin, it is necessary to make a tap in it and fix the shower head. If the barrel is impossible to bring water filling hose, then later you will have to install a staircase nearby to raise water with buckets. This option of a summer shower for a summer residence is easier to build, but more difficult to maintain. Putting an open tank and hoping for rain filling is also not worth it - rains can fail. In addition, dust, dry leaves and insects will fall into the open pan.
10. Now you can go to the walls. They can be solid, from floor to ceiling, or literally close only the “most interesting”. You can use wooden boards, decking, slate sheets, moisture-proof plywood or lining, and even polycarbonate. The main thing is to do everything evenly and securely.
11. Sex is done last. He might be continuous with a drain for water or trellised. This option is suitable if the shower is not planned to be mercilessly exploited every day.
12. The final gesture is the installation of a door or curtain, depending on the intended shower model. After that, you can conduct tests and celebrate the emergence of a new building.

In a separate article, popular ones are presented, according to which you can erect a structure yourself.

Until now, it was a question of the soul as a separate building. But you can somewhat simplify your task. For example, attach a shower to one of the walls of a country house. Of course, if you have a wall at your disposal that is lit almost all day by the sun. In this case, only two supports will be required, a base for installing the tank, floor and drain. If the tank can be installed on the roof, this option also deserves attention.

Ready-made polycarbonate shower

At the word "polycarbonate" most of us imagine a greenhouse. The question immediately arises - how to use such a shower, is it transparent? However, specially for showers, material is produced that perfectly conceals everything. Polycarbonate is attached to a metal frame, and the entire structure - to the base, preferably concrete. It uses anchor fasteners.

If you still do not want to think about how to make a summer shower yourself, then there are a lot of models of ready-made polycarbonate shower stalls. They can be single or double and even triple - the very combination of shower + toilet + dressing room, which was already mentioned. The package bundle can also be different and is selected according to the financial capabilities of customers. For example, a cheaper option is a shower with a curtain instead of a door.

No matter how wonderful the polycarbonate shower stall for a summer residence is, you still have to equip a drain and a drainage pit (with a large number of active users). But these efforts are redeemed by the simplicity of further action. Installation of ready-made polycarbonate booths is a relatively simple matter. And it won’t take much time.

Depending on the design and color of the plastic, such buildings can look very attractive. Of course, boasting a polycarbonate booth and putting it in the most prominent place is not worth it. But the owners and guests in the country will be very pleased to look at such a shower and wash in it. In addition, polycarbonate does not need special care.

  Which is better to choose, or a barrel? Learn about the pros and cons of containers, as well as the materials from which they are made.

Different types of toilets for country toilets are described on.

About storage tanks made of plastic for arranging country sewerage there is information on this link

Enjoy the results

Now you know how to make a shower in the country yourself. And if you are sure that you need a country shower, then boldly act. The best result is obtained with careful preliminary calculations. And at the end of all the work, you can return to the daily cottage worries - in which case, you will have a place to refresh yourself.

As Ostap Bender would say, a shower for giving is not a luxury, but a means of hygiene. Moreover, a means of paramount importance: according to medical statistics, people who put off washing after days off in the country before arriving home, turn to doctors about skin and gastrointestinal diseases 12% more often than others; for other types of health disorders there is no data of a similar nature.

You can buy a simple summer shower, designed only for summer weather, for 10,000 rubles. Having spent the amount, 2-3 times less, or even out of improvised materials, you can make a warm shower yourself, suitable for bath procedures from the beginning to the end of the summer season. In this case, a full range of amateur products is found - from a slick doghouse, a greedy dermatologist’s dream (there will be a lot of patients, they will give money) through completely functional, hygienic and even almost non-spoiling view of the building site to structures from, for example, construction waste, at the sight of which an experienced designer nods his head knowingly, see fig.

But, characteristically, there is no medical correlation with the type of soul - purchased, of different price categories, or home-made,. “Super-duper company” for 70-100 tyr, with automation and sensory-remote control can turn out to be a breeding ground for infection, and cooked up with shower stalls at the dacha faithfully and truthfully guard the cleanliness and health of owners for many years and decades.

Home-made manufacturers are not to blame here; and those and other efforts, abilities and considerations not to occupy. It's simple - no one really knows how to do it, the dacha shower. If there are any regulatory rules for its construction, then neither builders, nor plumbers, nor orderlies know anything about them. It is clear that you need to do a country shower correctly in essence, i.e. so that it doesn’t infect, and that it doesn’t kill the land and waste water, and doesn’t spoil the crop, but how? It’s dark here, like in the Khrushchev’s bathroom, when traffic jams were knocked out.

For example, the minimum volume of a cesspool is 2 cubic meters. m, but this is with the standard amount of runoff, and in the country it is several times less. The biochemistry of the cesspool is disgusting, but well balanced; the pit should neither overflow nor dry up. Modern (dry closets) can reduce the volume of the cesspool and the frequency of calls of the sled, but basically the processes in the cesspool do not change. What volume and design do you need a rake for a shower in the air? I have no idea, as Barack Obama would say. The same applies to other nodes and structural elements. In fact, those who want to make a country shower competently pull on the norm from there, then from there, and there - maybe they will all come together. Or maybe they’ll disperse, and Byak will come out.

Well, let’s try to include what mother nature of the American president has deprived a little of, to say at the end: “Well, at least I’ve found a good ideal!” We will design a summer shower for ourselves, based on the principles:

• Hygiene - neither the shower itself, nor water for it should bring harm to the wash, only benefit.
• Environmental friendliness - the drain from the shower should not harm the environment either in the near term (in the form of compliance of the crop from the site with sanitary standards), or in the distant (in the form of water quality from local sources of water supply), in space and time.
• Practicality, it’s functionality - it should be not only what is possible, but pleasant and useful not only to freshen up in the heat, but also to wash in any weather from the first to the last exit to the cottage.
• Aesthetics - a shower cabin for a summer residence should at least not spoil the landscape design of the site, but, preferably, organically fit into it. An alternative is an invisible shower, collapsible or not rushing into the eyes.
• Profitability - the construction of a shower should take a minimum of labor, materials and financial costs, not to the detriment of any of the previous qualities.

We will use the existing norms and rules, but for verification, so as not to fantasize the absurdities. And we also use a good bit of knowledge about the physicochemical processes in nature and the soul. The data in the normative documents is the tip of the iceberg and, since there is no single code for country souls, you will have to turn to the basics. To build a shower correctly, we pass from one critical node to another; what is in the middle will then be easier. Really - in this sequence:

1. Base.
2. Stoke and rake.
3. The choice of design.
4. Possibility of combining functions (shower combined with a toilet, etc.)
5. Floor, pallet and platform.
6. Cabin - frame, walls, etc.
7. Diffuser (watering can), pipelines, valves.
8. Additional equipment - water heating, cab heating, pumping.

What does all-weather mean?

Clause 3 of the list above is especially important for medical reasons. If it is violated, the thing smells no longer of itchy ankles and shoulders, but of such things as pneumonia. A heated shower means more than just having hot or warm water.

Let's say +13 outside, but you need to wash. The cabin has cooled down to the same temperature: from insulation, there will only be sense (forgive readers forgive an involuntary pun) if there are sources of heat inside the washing room. Without them, you will have to tremble and shrink for 2-5 minutes, until the heat of the spray from the watering can heats the booth. And in the meantime, hot water may end, the tank is somehow not still.

So, you need to warm not only the water in the tank, but also the air in the shower. It is highly desirable to create a warm island in a light cabin with large gaps below and above. How to achieve this, let's see when it comes to additional equipment; so far, as they say, we’ll tie a knot.

Children's question

And why a shower - separately? In the apartment he is together. Then, that summer cottages are not equipped with sewage. It is appropriate to recall the rule here: the cesspool must be removed from the residential buildings by at least 15 m. The point is not only miasma, but also that the filtrate from the cesspool can wash the foundation of the house with all that it implies. It is still possible to arrange a shower in a country house. Then, if the house is heated, then the shower will be all-weather.

Note: a bio-septic tank that almost does not produce harmful fumes, under certain conditions, you can move it to the house at 4-5 meters. But this topic already refers to the construction of country toilets.

The device of the country shower

Base

When zero is not needed

The need for a zero cycle of summer-shower work disappears in the following cases, see Fig. below:

• When using the compact portable shower, on the left in fig.
• If the shower with the adjacent outbuildings is ready-made modular, in the center in fig.
• If the cab is on a frame made of plastic pipes (propylene or PVC) with soft skin, on the right there.

A compact shower in a suitcase (on sale - a large selection) is used in any random place, but is inconvenient in relation to heating water; It is difficult to adapt a water heater to it, and compactness with mobility is immediately lost. Capacity - rinse one or two. This soul does not need a cesspool - there is not enough water in the tank, and, no matter who or how to wash, the local ecology will digest such a volley.

Modular showers are designed to be installed directly on the ground.   They are equipped with adjustable legs, which with a stationary installation allows you to compensate for the current movement of the soil. Modular common areas are more familiar to citizens on public dry closets, but they are also available, besides them, modular showers, kitchens, shelters, etc., so that from modules you can dial a full-fledged utility unit. This pleasure is by no means cheap; more modules are used to organize the conveniences of professional field teams. A rake is not required, you only need to change the placeholder of the integrated septic tank in a timely manner.

Soft shower frames are put on stakes of reinforcing rods driven into the ground. If the frame is made of PP water pipes, then it is assembled using standard connectors, but one size larger, and not by soldering, but on self-tapping screws. The cabin turns out collapsible and quite reliable, because the frame is lightly loaded and absolutely maintainable. The lining is most often made of colored tarpaulin: in the heat, then the cabin is not so parked, it is warmer cool, and the tarpaulin, unlike the film, does not stick nasty to a wet body. Such a design can withstand a 12-point earthquake, if only the earth itself from under the shower did not disappear. A rake is needed, so soft showers are not particularly popular: if you dig a hole, then it’s better to make a foundation, and put something more impressive and attractive on it.

Under plastic

It is possible to build a shower cabin from light, elastic and chemically resistant materials with a hard sheathing (see below) even without foundation, even on very heaving soil. In order to not overturn her, in this case 30-40 cm of non-cushioned pillow is enough. Specifically, sand and gravel backfill with layers of equal power. The thickness of the pillow is approximate, in fact, the upper humus layer of soil is removed to the underlying rock: loam, sandy loam. Dachas on meter-long chernozems are not distinguished, so you won’t have to dig very deeply, but still - 30 cm, of which 15 are sand and 15 are gravel, this is the minimum. Suddenly, after the winter, it is still skewed, the booth can be moved aside, the pillow can be leveled, and put back as it was.

Note: a plastic shower is attached to the ground with the lower ends of the pipes, worn on armatures driven into the ground, as well as a soft shower. But there is a difference - since the structure is constant, the stakes are driven into the ground at least 0.35 m below the underside of the pillow, and it is better if local conditions allow it to freeze, then seasonal skews are excluded.

Under the tree

A shower made of wood can, in principle, be placed simply on a pillow,   but double impregnation of wood with water-polymer emulsion, biocides and then treatment with hot bitumen will protect the supporting frame and floor from rotting for 3-10 years, depending on local conditions. Strength treated in this way can hold wood for 30–40 years, but molds with bacteria will get to where they become feet and rub against bodies, much faster. Therefore, a shower cabin made of natural lumber should be raised above the ground by at least 20-25 cm, and for a hygienic cesspool (see below) - by 35-40 cm.

an example of the implementation of the foundation for a country shower

The means to provide these requirements has long been known - a columnar or pile foundation. For such a light and free "acting out" wooden structure, for reasons of economy, the second is preferable. Dear to buy to anything, it is better to do homemade hammered. Simply - pipe sections with a diameter of 60-150 mm (if available) with ends flattened in a spear. Further - a sledgehammer or a home-made woman (it is much easier to work with it), and - to the estimated freezing depth for a given area.

The location of the piles is the 1st one at an angle and each complete or incomplete 1.5 m contour. After trimming the protruding ends with a grinder along the hose level, anchor bolts are welded to the piles (M12 - M16); they are dressed and attracted by nuts with washers of 40-60 mm in diameter; the lower supporting frame is a grillage.

An alternative option, again, depending on the availability of materials - drill piles made of asbestos-cement pipes. Wells pass to the same depth of freezing with a hand drill. It is very good if there is a camouflage nozzle with it, with which wells are drilled under the tape-pile foundation on heaving soils. Reinforcement of piles and pouring them with concrete are also similar to the specified case. Asbestos-cement piles are cut in height by a grinder with a circle on the stone before reinforcement and pouring. Anchor bolts are walled up to a depth of 120 mm.

Under the metal

For a shower on a metal frame, the foundation is the same as for a wooden one:   if a tree rots, then the metal rusts. Piles in this case are preferable to driven-in metal ones, and a grillage from a channel of 50-80 mm is welded to them.

Under the brick

Brick shower in the country - a rarity, time-consuming and expensive. But he has a valuable advantage - it is easy to heat it. It is enough to pass the return from the tank into the water heater through an old thin-walled heating radiator (see below), and in the closet with the walls in half a brick, insulated with 30-mm packing foam, measuring 1.2 x 1.2 m in plan and ceiling height 2.2 m at +8 outside in 4-5 hours will be +22.

Brick buildings are not elastic, heavy, and therefore a foundation for a brick shower needs a strong and steady.   Since the structure in this case is small, the monolithic slab foundation is optimal in terms of labor intensity and cost. The device is simple: a solid (necessarily!) Reinforced concrete slab with a thickness of 170-300 mm and with a removal of 0.3-0.5 m outside the building contour is placed on the non-porous pillow described above, this will be the blind area.

The concrete brand does not matter much, the M150 is enough. Reinforcement is a stand with a mesh (150-200) x (300-400) mm from a 12 mm bar. If you plan to equip the compact rake described below, it is better to pour the slab in place, circling the recess under the barrel with the formwork.

Rake

As already mentioned, in order to maintain biochemistry in the sewage pit necessary for the disposal of effluents to a level of pollution that is naturally processed, the moisture content in them must be kept within certain limits. Say, the instructions for branded fillers for septic tanks clearly indicate: do not fill, acidify and stink. Do not let it dry, the microflora will die, and in general it will stop working.

The fact that the drain from the shower is too liquid for the general cesspool in the country is obvious. But its chemical composition also matters: household organics, there is practically no nutrient medium for beneficial bacteria in the pit. Unless someone will use the shower, like Polygraph Polygraphych Sharikov from the “Dog Heart” toilet. But in excess of alkalis (for soap) and detergents (surfactants, surfactants) that are harmful to them, from shampoos, gels, etc.

Therefore, to reduce the drains from the shower and toilet in the country into a common hole is a gross mistake from the point of view of biochemistry.   The kitchen can still be with the toilet, but the shower needs to be taken separately to a special pit. In a city apartment, the situation is different: there, until the effluents reach the sewage treatment plant, everything will mix up and react so much that only the percentage of simple compounds and elements will matter. In any case, it is impossible to build a sewer separate for the bathroom and toilet in the city.

Note:   in what abominations only do the researchers sometimes not have to dig, eh? But the thing is necessary and useful.

This raises the question: so, take out the extra 2 cubic meters of soil? Since a septic tank doesn’t recycle a shower drain? And a hundred square meters of land disappears: from the harvest from the vicinity of a simple pit, consumer supervision will screech with a squeal when the analysis does.

It is not necessary at all, taking into account the time of heating the water, the maximum frequency of using the country shower and the volume of water in the tank that follows from it (there can be no more single discharge). That is, we are faced with 2 tasks: the first is to remove the runoff into the soil little by little so that organic acids from the soil can neutralize alkalis and decompose detergents. The second is to bring them into the ground below the fertile layer, so as not to kill the soil micro-viability. And organic acids, a product of her life, will seep from above.

Calculations, for the description of which, unfortunately, there is no place for this, show that the drain is 100 l / h or 50 l in one gulp (for normal dwellers, for normal users this is, as they say, higher than the roof), it is necessary to put it into the ground at a depth of not less than in 2 power of the humus layer. Conclusion: we will be rescued by the usual 200-liter barrel with a height of 850 mm. A fertile layer of 40 cm is not a summer residence, it is Eldorado. A smaller plastic barrel will also go, if only its volume is not less than a single discharge (for it we take the capacity of the tank), and the height is not less than 2 thicknesses of humus.

Note: if the barrel is a pity, the shell of the pit can be typed from old tires. Only then will it be necessary to periodically pour chlorine into the pit, in the resulting side cavities with frequent use, the waste water will stagnate.

From theory to practice

Installing a compact and cheap cesspool for a shower from a barrel is easy. First, we dig the pit according to the scheme in Fig. to a depth equal to the height of the barrel. The distance from the siphon spout to the neck of the barrel is not critical, the plastic corrugated hose reaches. Then we cut off the bottom and the lid with the neck from the barrel. The bottom is no longer needed, and we cut off a segment from the lid to get an inspection hatch; for it will need a tight cover.

Set the barrel in the pit, fill the soil back. Next is the filter. Pour fine gravel into the cesspool with a layer of 15-20 cm. In a bucket of water, we shake 1-1.5 kg of any clay to “milk”, and pour a filling evenly with a fine stream until the clay milk covers it. After a day or two, when the water leaves, and the clay dries up, a fine filter layer, often piercing it with a pointed reinforcement. It remains to weld the lid, and after building the shower, insert it into the neck and seal the siphon spout with construction foam. You can insert a tee into the neck and feed the drain from the kitchen here, it is more similar to the shower than the toilet in bio- and simple chemistry.

Note: if construction is near, and the concrete mixer is free, you can knead the porous concrete from which the filters are made when building wells. Then backfilling with clay impregnation is not needed - 2-3 buckets of porous kneading are simply dumped into the cesspool and leveled.

Plow from such a cesspool is excluded constructively. Inspect and, suddenly needed, clean it conveniently, but the cost of labor and money - nothing at all; the usable area, except that under the shower, is not withdrawn from economic use. At the author’s dacha, the shower casket from the barrel has been functioning properly for almost 20 years. I didn’t need to clean it once (they go to the cottage on the weekend and spend their holidays there). The inside of the barrel was overgrown with a dense layer of some chemical compounds, but it did not rust through. Fruits from plants in the immediate vicinity of the pit were repeatedly handed over to the sanitation station for analysis, which invariably showed their full suitability for food. A water well was hammered into the sample 5 meters from the pit - the water turned out to be good.

More about the shower with toilet

This type of shower can be placed in a block with a toilet. For the latter, by the way, if the summer cottage is not at all necessary to make a rather complicated and expensive septic tank, not to mention the antediluvian two-cube pit. You can do without a cesspool at all, having arranged powder-closet. More precisely, powder-toilet, because this is a french notion. Sortie in French outlet; toilet, respectively - a latrine. Powder closet can be used only in the warm season, but it was the study of the processes in it that led to the invention of dry closets. However, this is again about country toilets, which require separate analysis.

What will the shower be like?

Now that we know how much work is needed to equip the site with a shower, and in which cases you can do without them, it's time to decide - what kind of shower will we do? Or buy? In general, the choice is:

• Compact portable shower.
• Street extension to the house.
• Garden cabin.
• Capital shower.
• Household complex in the shower.
• Shower room in the house.

Compact - not compact

A portable shower is not necessary to carry with you everywhere and everywhere. No one bothers to use it constantly in one place. Similarly, no one bothers to fill the wineskin with hot water, heated on a fire or in the stove, immediately before washing. The only thing that is required is a fence.

Shower enclosures for mobile showers are sold, complete with a shower or optional. But, frankly, the game is not worth the candle - the shower enclosure is easier to make yourself. The simplest, but very convenient option is a semicircular guide attached to the wall of the house, see fig., And a curtain. It is not necessary to bend a pipe from a stainless steel, you can do with a propylene pipe, all worn on the same pins from reinforcing bars. Then the fence will be completely collapsible. The curtain is better to sew from colored tarpaulin (preferably also propylene); why - it is said above.

Cabin on the street

Sooner or later users of “stationary” souls come to the conclusion that a water tank needs to be replaced with a tank: 6-12 liters and not enough for one, but definitely not enough for a family. Now we got a street shower, and there was a problem with the drain. Usually they solve it by letting water down a slope or a gutter into a flower bed, on the basis that the flowers do not eat. But from the point of view of respect for nature, this, of course, is wrong. And the earth, if used often, can turn sour, and then the entire flowerbed disappears. It’s better to choose the time, on the lower edge of the drainage slope (usually the blind area of \u200b\u200bthe house) to mold a cement-catcher from cement, and bury a 40-mm PVC sewer into the ground to the sewer pit. For the above, one 3rd pipe is enough; its slope is needed 4-10 cm / m.

If the curtain wants to be quickly and simply replaced with something more impressive, then the same curved pipe on the wall will help out. How the simplest one with a hard skin is made from a cabin with a curtain, is schematically shown in Fig. Within the simplified blind area of \u200b\u200ba building with a width of only 60 cm, it turns out to be quite convenient (passageways of 45 cm, a semicircular washing in terms of 60x120 cm) and a completely unsightly cabin. The material of the casing and fence is any, sufficiently rigid and allowing some bending. Polycarbonate is best; it will be discussed more. In this case, the fence of the labyrinth entrance can be bent, having received a quite elegant extension.

Garden shower

However, there is no need to rush to dig and attach: there is another simple option - a garden shower. This is a cabin on a lightweight frame with soft opaque casing, see fig. The highlight of it is that the cabin is put in a new place on every visit, or rearranged once a week. It is enough to carry it 2-3 meters away from the former, and the local ecology will endure the increased runoff.

Capital

A capital shower differs from a simple cabin not only in that it stands on the foundation; it, as we shall see below, may not exist. There must necessarily be a dressing room in the capital shower room, although exhibitionism in certain circles is now if not the norm, then certainly fashion. However, it is not necessary to demonstrate the models of swimwear when washing, coupled with graceful shapes or embossed torso, as shown in advertising photographs.

It is necessary to wash completely without clothes first of all for sanitary and hygienic reasons. The reason is dust in the fabric and scarring of clothing. Having become limp, and even in contact with a wet body, it can cause skin diseases just in those places where you least want them. According to the rules of field work in countries that widely use seasonal migrant workers, i.e. Unaccustomed to delve into the ground, after the shift, after washing, you must definitely wear clean underfloor. Outerwear can be left working, but underwear is only fresh. In any case, it is uncivilized to be like the ancient nomads, for whom dirt up to a centimeter thick is not dirt, and then it falls off itself.

How a shower with a dressing room should be arranged is shown in fig; dimensions - in cm. The curtain protects the clothes from splashes, and shoes from getting wet - the grill, wooden or from propylene pipes on self-tapping screws, see below. The curtain in this case is more suitable from the film - the tarpaulin, not blown by the breeze, will dry for a long time, and if it is not propylene, but x / b, then it can mate.

Note: for people of average height and complexion, so that, bending over the dropped soap, not knocking down the door and breaking the walls with a fifth point, the washing dimensions in plan can be reduced to 80x100 cm. Then the entrance, where the curtain hangs, will be the big side.

All in one

The change house at the dacha does not play the same role as at the construction site and field work. In any case, the rake should be attributed to housing as far as the conditions on the site allow. And to have a meal, since they escaped from the bustle of the city, it is more pleasant and more useful in free air. Therefore, the kitchen with a veranda is often included in the summer house along with a shower and a toilet.

The limiting, if I may say so, schemes of the device of summer cottages are shown in Fig. The left one is the simplest one, 1.8 x 1 m, on concrete block-beds without foundation. Toilet - powder-closet or bio; the locker room can be used as a shelter in case of bad weather. Appointment - temporary, for the period of construction of the house.

On the right - the change house is constant. The foundation is slab, see above. Walls - aerated concrete 75 mm + 12 mm on each side for decoration. The roof is a flat sloping slate. As a refuge, if there are many people, a large shower room can be used; the size of the kitchen allows you to build or put a wood stove. It is built, with the average skill of the master and the presence of a utility room, for the weekend, except for the technological break for the set of concrete strength and the time for finishing work.

Note, joke:   do not rush to build it, and then who knows when hands will reach the real house.

In the House

The country shower in the house, once it is in the living room, must meet all the requirements of sanitation and hygiene. This is a separate topic, some features in relation to the cottage will be discussed further along the way.

Floor, pallet, grill

Floor

The floor in the country shower is made of wood; capital, as in a big house, is too laborious and expensive. In a cabin up to 1.5x1.5 m in size, if a grooved-for-forty board is taken for flooring, lags are not needed. If the cabin is not square, the flooring boards are cut to the size of the short side, so it will be stronger.

So that the tree does not rot from moisture, it, of course, needs to be processed. In our time, this can be done without complicated and time-consuming operations such as sintering with bitumen, two-layer oil painting with zinc or titanium whitewash, etc. Preparation of boards for the floor of the cabin is reduced, after sawing in size, to a double treatment with a water-polymer emulsion; the second treatment can be done one hour after the first.

Then - drying. At temperatures above 22 in the shade and drying in direct sunlight, the boards will be ready for later in the evening, if processed in the morning; at 15 degrees and drying in the shade - by the morning of the next day.

After drying, the wood is impregnated with any biocide for wood. It is only necessary to read on the packaging whether the preparation is intended for impregnation under pressure; this is not suitable. It is advisable to impregnate in the sun in warm weather, allowing the boards to warm up for an hour or two.

3-4 hours after impregnation, you can apply acrylic varnish in 2 layers. The first dries in the evening, then you can varnish a second time. The next morning the floor can be laid. Thus, if you choose a nice day, with a floor that lasts at least 10 years, you can manage for the weekend, and there will still be time.

Pallet

Shower trays, if you do not already know it, are low and high. The former are placed in a cutout or recess in the floor, while the latter are actually a standing bath: they are installed on the legs and are equipped with a screen. Both come in sizes from 800x800 to 1580x1580mm straight and angular, rounded or faceted, as well as round, oval and complex shapes. Made of acrylic or enameled sheet steel. The first are more expensive and more durable; the second is cheaper.

For a summer residence with a separate shower on the territory, the shower tray needs a straight low, see fig. The most common size and material is steel 1000x1000 mm. Its advantages:

• Simplicity of installation and sealing: a sausage of construction foam is applied along the contour of the cut-out, and then, until it has frozen, lay the pallet; protruding excess foam is removed.
• Saving wood and work: by making the base frame of the cabin (see below), the width of the inside to the outer size of the pan bath, we get rid of the flooring of most of the floor. It is enough to cover the top of the frame with scraps of boards so that the pallet does not end up in failure.
• Cheapness: with a relatively low intensity of use of a country shower, a steel pallet with careful use will last at least 15 years.
• Resistance in summer conditions: acrylic pallets in dachas do not withstand the estimated service life, because they are afraid of abrasive wear by sand, from which you can’t get anywhere outside the city.

Note:   if you have a shower with a locker room, you can take a tray 800x1000, see above. If in the country there are people with a corpulence higher than average, then the pallet 1200x1200 will be the best

The country shower in the house requires already a high tray. The reason is that the cut will weaken the floor, unless it is formed in a complete pattern. And then mortising and concrete work will take a lot of time and effort, plus to beat the channel for the sewer. Suddenly, the house is not yet built, it is also not necessary to lay a low pallet in the project with a wooden floor: the installation step of the lag turns out to be too large for a flooring of this size.

It is more profitable to purchase a high pallet complete with a cabin and a screen. Then it is better to take a corner shower: a shower corner of the same overall dimensions takes up much less usable area in a small room and is even more convenient than a direct shower.

As for the installation, it is advisable to do it yourself. Firstly, the master’s departure outside the city will be too expensive, his day will be lost, and in a day he can install up to 3 cabins, if not more. Secondly, the water supply and runoff at the dacha are almost always non-standard, which will come out even more expensive. Therefore, how to install a shower cabin with a high tray yourself, see the video below.

Video: self-assembly and installation of a shower cabin

And the following is about the subtleties of just angular ones:

In addition, before purchasing, you will need to familiarize yourself with the company instructions, as installation methods for showers of different manufacturers are slightly different.

Lattice

In the locker room, a grate for the legs is necessary so that the shoes do not get wet. In a sink with a low tray, the grill above it is also highly desirable. due to the lack of a threshold, the danger of slipping and crashing at the entrance to the pallet is increased.

Typically, the lattice is made of wood from slats from 30x30 to 100x40 boards. The preparation of wood is the same as for the floor, but instead of varnishing it is advisable to coat the grill, if the means allow it, cover it with an acrylic compound for bath repair, then its resistance to wear by the soles of the shoes will increase significantly. Yes, and for the floor, compound coating will not be superfluous; in this case, the pallet can not be sealed with foam, a thick mixture will tighten the gap.

The best, and if you take into account the price of varnish, then a cheaper lattice is obtained from PP pipes assembled on self-tapping screws. Pipes need 1/2 ″; installation step - 1.5 outer diameter. The spacing of the crossbars from the same pipe is 300-400 mm. There is a little trick here: after assembling the grill, they launch a little polyurethane foam at all the gaping ends so that the grill inside is not sour from dampness.

Tank

The tank for the shower at the cottage must be equipped with sanitary drainage with a shut-off valve, indicated by brown in fig. They place it at the lowest point of the vessel, and make the source flush with the bottom. Before a long break in use (at least for a week) the tank is completely emptied through the sand drainage. It is advisable to regularly, with the same frequency, drain the sludge and with constant use. Please note that in the country, the probability of spores and eggs of unwanted microorganisms getting into the tank is several times higher - by orders of magnitude higher than in a city apartment. The author is aware of a case when ... crucian piglets were found in a shower tank. They obviously ate mosquito larvae, which were infested there.

The second condition is that the selective pipe must be placed higher so that clean water splashes out of the watering can, and not sediment. Finally, if there is water heating in the tank, its thermosiphon circulation must also occur, otherwise most of the heater power will go idle. That is, the hot water inlet must be as high as possible.

If the tank is powered from the water supply, then it needs a float valve and overflow with a lumen cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bat least 2 such supply pipes. Sufficient clearance is needed above the float so that it does not rest against the tank cap without blocking the water supply to the end. For such a case, a tank diagram with recommended sizes is shown on the left in Fig.

For a tank that is manually filled, the layout of the pipes changes, because the water level in it is reduced during use. Its diagram is shown on the right in Fig. An indispensable condition is that the supply of hot water should be located at least a little (5-7 mm at least) above the source of extraction, and the mouth of the supply pipe should be carried away from the source of the outlet; selective is located approximately in the middle between them. It is advisable to discharge sludge from such a tank immediately after each emptying so that the sediment does not clog the water heater.

And what is he from?

Ready-made shower tanks of different sizes, tanks, fully equipped with fittings, are available in a wide range. But, since our task is to completely implement everything with our own hands, we will see how to make the tank ourselves.

The most common tanks of country showers are made from barrels laid on one side; then it is convenient to place the sand drainage, and the withdrawal of water into the sludge becomes minimal. In a steel 200-liter barrel, in this case, a wide filling and inspection hatch is cut out and through it, after welding the pipes, inside the container is painted with yacht acrylic enamel or the same compound for bath repair. An outdated long way - primed with a primer on rust and painted with iron minium on oil.

Plastic barrels do not require preparation from the inside, but there is a problem of sealing the joints: almost nothing sticks to polyethylene and polypropylene, and it is impossible to connect by soldering, like water pipes. Fortunately, plastic barrels are available with wide necks through which it is possible to install threaded fittings M12-M16 with a flange and a rubber gasket, and on the outside also with a gasket and washer; tightened all the nut. To prevent the pipe from turning out by thermal deformations, the diameter of the flange and washer should be from 3 external diameters of the fitting, but not less than 40 mm.

Note: an alternative way - sealing with silicone - does not justify itself, for 2-3 season the joints let it leak.

About the tank from the old washer

It’s no secret that many summer showers have tanks from unusable old washing machines. Their capacity is small, for 2-3 washes quickly, but otherwise they are very good: they do not rust, sanding is automatically obtained from the former drain pipe, and the rest is easy to input and output through the opening for the activator, there is already a stamping for the gasket and holes for fasteners. Covering such a tank with glass on silicone (preferably acrylic), we obtain effective solar water heating (see below), because, repeatedly reflecting from the internal shiny walls, the radiation of the Sun will be almost completely absorbed by the water.

Cabin

Grillage

The basic frame of the cabin is most often made of wood; under conditions of summer residence, it loses strength more slowly than a thin-walled (1.5-2.5 mm) metal profile. The channel, of course, will last longer, but will cost more. It is more suitable for welded structures, see above.

As for wood, a beam of 100x100 or even 60x60 is suitable for a light cabin, and 150x150 for capital showers. Wood processing is generally the same as for the floor, only instead of varnishing it is impregnated twice or three times with heated bitumen mastic. In combination with a water-polymer emulsion, this will ensure durability of at least 12 years; VPE, penetrating deep into the pores of wood, makes them unsuitable for germination of mold spores.

How high?

The rise of the grillage above the ground, and the corresponding ledge of the foundation piles, is calculated as the sum of 200-250 mm for ventilation, plus the depth of the pallet basin, plus the technological height of the siphon and another 50-70 mm of stock. So, for a low pallet this will be 320-450 mm, i.e. 2-3 more steps are needed at the entrance.

Frame

A wooden shower is assembled, as well as on supporting pillars, only the roof problems disappear: it either does not exist at all, or it is simple inclined. The frames of the walls are reinforced with diagonal braces, one per side, from a 100x40 board or the same, dissolved in half, i.e. 50x40, and installed flat. The latter option saves material, but takes up space inside the cab.

On a metal frame is usually a professional pipe from 25x25x1.5 to 40x40x2. The profile frame is assembled for welding, primed and painted. Thin-walled galvanized profiles are cheaper and easier to assemble - on self-tapping screws - but do not last long, this material is not intended for external use at all.

The best material for the shower frame is 1/2 ″ and 3/4 ″ propylene water pipes. The assembly diagram is the same as for wood: frame and diagonal. In this case, it is not necessary to solder the plastic, it is enough to pick up the standard connectors so that the pipe enters them more tightly and assemble it on the screws. In the shower, phosphated (black) are better kept. The diameter of the screws - 4.2 mm; length - 1-1.5 mm shorter than the outer diameter of the connector so that the tip does not protrude and does not scratch.

Sheathing

In general, any sheet decoration materials for external use are suitable for showering: a professional flooring, plastic lining, siding, polycarbonate, the top row in rice; they can be attached to any frame either with standard fasteners, or, if the frame is propylene, with brackets and clamps.

Polycarbonate is emitted from all cladding materials. Its main advantage is the self-heating polycarbonate shower. The features of the interaction of cellular polycarbonate with sunlight are such that an increased energy density of infrared (thermal, IR) radiation is created inside the cabin. Simply put, there is a kind of warm cocoon, even if the shower is without a roof and with a wide ventilation gap below. Cellular polycarbonate was originally designed to cover greenhouses and greenhouses.

The shower cabin is sheathed on all sides, cramped, i.e. the area of \u200b\u200bits glazing is large relative to the volume, and tomatoes are not grown there in winter. Therefore, the cheapest sheet of 2R structure with a thickness of 4 mm of the most alternative manufacturer is suitable for showering. You should not be afraid of peeping: milk, opaque, polycarbonate is specially produced for showers.

The second important factor is a honeycomb sheet, if it is oriented vertically and bent by internal channels, acquires the properties of a prestressed structure (PNA): high strength and rigidity. That is, a very strong and light round cabin can be made on the frame of only 2 hoops bent from the PP pipe, the upper and lower. The hoops will also be prestressed and add a fair amount of overall strength.

Finally, by tightly wrapping the sheet to a curved template and heating to 70-80 degrees for 20-30 hours, the bend of the sheet can be fixed. This technique is often used by designers; in particular, for original showers without a frame, see fig. on right.

Widely used for showers and good old wood, pre-processed, as well as for the floor, and even raw, at least in the form of wattle, the bottom row in Fig. higher. Its advantages are accessibility, ease of processing, and for capital showers under the roof - the tree holds heat well. There is less heat loss through the wooden sheathing from the board-forties than through a brick in a half brick.

Note: it is undesirable to use stratified and modified wood materials - plywood, fiberboard, particleboard, MDF - for lining showers;

Fittings

The garden garden is distinguished from an ordinary shower primarily by a watering can (spout, diffuser): its structure includes an adjustment valve, see fig. If there is hot water at the cottage separately, then this is not suitable - there is something you can’t see for diffusers with a standard two-way valve. However, it is not difficult to make a watering can with a valve itself, it does not have any fundamental features. Other shutoff valves are any ordinary, but pipelines are simpler and cheaper to make flexible from a reinforced garden hose.

Heating and heating

Now we will finally understand what a warm shower is. In capital showers, as mentioned above, washing the heating will ensure that the return from the tank to the water heater is passed through the heating register, see Fig. For permanent heating of living quarters, this scheme is an utter heresy, but in the shower it is fully functional without loss of overall efficiency.

The cheapest and fastest water heating is provided by a flowing gas boiler of low power or, if gas is a cylinder, an electric boiler. We’ll leave one and the other, because it is impossible to make them in accordance with safety requirements outside of industrial conditions: heating elements with grounding are only the basis, you still need automatic temperature control, emergency from boiling, emptying, overheating of the heating element due to fouling or sludge, and some other little things.

Without heat exchanger

The easiest way, from time immemorial and summer residents use, is to warm the water with the Sun. But the well-known bitumen tank is not the best solution; the fact is that bitumen or simple black (not selective) paint is black only in visible light, and IR reflects well.

2 methods of primitive solar heating of water are shown in Fig. on right. The first (left pos.) Uses the fact that water itself actively absorbs IR and ultraviolet (UV). The latter carries a lot of energy, but you need a well-transmitting UV tank, i.e. dear acrylic. In the other, on the right pos. the own heat capacity of the hose is used: it, when water flows, gives it the accumulated heat, so it is possible to get more warm water than it originally was in the volume of the pipe.

With a register and a pot

Direct heating of water is bad because it depends on the weather and time of the year: clouds came running in - the water is cold, and you can get hot only in the heat, when it’s enough warm. For good heating of water, not only in warm time and not only in clear weather, a shower water heater must, firstly, somehow collect solar radiation, whose energy density is relatively low, and transmit it to water, whose heat capacity is relatively high. An indispensable condition for “stitching” these requirements is thermosiphon or forced circulation of water in the system, i.e. a heat exchanger is needed, and how to heat it is the second thing.

A simple heat transfer register is a coil (on the left in the figure) or a U-shaped elbow made of a copper or aluminum thin-walled tube. It can be laid flat with a slope, in the middle there; then the hot side should be elevated above the cold side by no less than the value of the inner diameter of the tube, otherwise the development of internal convection, boiling and breaking even with a relatively small influx of energy is possible.

In some cases, the heat exchanger in the form of a sealed vessel is more convenient, on the right in Fig. The principle of "thermosiphonity" is observed here in that the outlet (hot) pipe is located as high as possible cold. Sealing in this case needs a complete, without the slightest leak!

From the stove

The water-heating register can be built into a country heating and cooking stove, but this is already a matter of the design of the stoves, and where does the hot water go then, the stove by and large does not matter. Much more interesting in relation to the heating of shower water is the solar furnace. In our latitudes, it doesn’t fit well for cooking, but the shower will provide hot water and the simplest (see. Fig.) In spring and autumn in cloudy weather.

The pattern of such a stove is shown on the trail. fig. Material - any foil, even cardboard. Please note that the reflector is certainly metal, it reflects the entire spectrum of radiation, and household mirrors - only the visible part. For the infrared cloud is much more transparent, and UV and in a small amount carries a lot of energy.

The scheme of a stationary solar furnace is more complicated, but much more efficient, is shown on the trail. fig. The reflector is recruited from pieces (scraps) galvanized on silicone. The reflector fragments are set in turn, adjusting (adjusting) so that the light spot lies on the bottom of the heated vessel; the already installed and aligned mirrors are still covered with something. For this oven and the heat exchanger described before it, a compact heat exchanger is needed; it is placed instead of cooking utensils.

Panels

Solar panels are not so complicated and do not require any adjustment. This is, in fact, blackened inside and glazed flat boxes or other containers in which a strong greenhouse effect is created; a coil is installed inside such a mini-greenhouse, the diagram on the left in Fig. Modern solar panels use truly space technology, and some models in winter on a cloudy day at –20 outside deliver water with a temperature of +70 to the system.

We do not need such super-efficiency, it is enough for us to heat 50-100 liters of water from +15 to +40 in 2-4 hours. The most simple design like the ones shown on the track will cope with this task. poses of the same pic. And in fig. below (on the upper pos. - with the installation diagram and use case for heating a house) - drawings of home-made solar panels, comparable in efficiency to individual industrial designs. The first panel is completely home-made; the heat exchanger is soldered from a copper tube. In the one below, a radiator went to him from an old unusable refrigerator; box sizes are customized for cash.

And in the dark?

If the kitchen at the dacha is gasified, anyway, from the main or a cylinder, then you can warm the shower water for nothing at any time of the year in any weather day or night. How? Due to the waste heat (in essence - its own heat loss) of the gas stove. To do this, burners are circled from a 6-10 mm tube with a copper coil, as shown in fig; This method was invented back in Stalin's time, when people heard that somewhere out there, at the top, a curiosity appeared - hot water in a faucet.

To give a slope to the heat exchanger, pieces of soft wire are wound around its hot tube, and their whiskers are used either as legs or as hooks. Remember: the heating is intense, without tilting the coil boils and bursts instantly! It is also necessary to maintain other dimensions so as not to burn out and overdry the flexible hoses connecting the coil to the tank. What else you need to remember - the slope of the hot tube should be greater than the cold one, and the coil is heated well only if the burning burners are occupied with cooking utensils. That is, it makes no sense to burn gas idle, you need to warm the water during cooking. As a rule, in an hour of cooking a 50-liter tank heats up to 40-45 degrees.

Finally

Finally, we mention one curious thing - the supposedly hydromassage soul. In fig. the simplest model is shown on the right (the price, by the way, is not unpretentious - about 300 euros), but installations with 6 and even 10 diffusers are issued, in brochures loudly called nozzles.

Such spirits are only a tribute to fashion, if not the invention of marketers of the consumer society; simply wiring. For real hydromassage, a decrease in muscle tone is necessary under conditions of hydro-weightlessness, which cannot exist without a bath with water.