How to make a sewer. Sewerage installation in a private house

Living in your private house without a sewer will be at least uncomfortable.

As a rule, its installation takes place at the construction stages. There are some exceptions though.

And the sewage system for a private house, as the masters correctly note, is arranged more often after the construction of the building.

Schemes and types

In large houses with many rooms (bathrooms, toilets, kitchen, etc.), a scheme with at least two septic tanks is usually used.

If it is possible to join the central sewerage system, then this must be done, despite the subsequent impressive fees.

If not, you will have to build an autonomous sewage system.

Internal sewerage: scheme and specifics

When creating a project, you need to take into account the premises that need sewage. They are located in one location on each floor. With this layout, it is easier to lay pipes. Although a personal project is created for each house.

You can create a scheme here yourself. Of course, this will not be a professional and detailed development, as with specialists. But acting competently, you will use it to lay a pipeline and decide on the required amount of equipment and materials.

A house plan is a must here. Identify the positions for the sewerage pipeline (TK), riser (s) and all plumbing fixtures. On the diagram, mark the fittings for the pipeline and the distance from these elements to the riser and plumbing fixtures. Decide on the right amount of connecting components. This work is done on every floor.

Advice:be sure to calculate how many pipes of different diameters and connecting components are needed.

Required diameters:

1. For a riser or TK, as well as an outlet block for draining wastewater coming from the bathroom - 10-11 cm.
2. A 5 cm pipe is used for drains from the kitchen and bathroom.
3. Turns in the sewer should be done with two knees. Their position angle is 45 °. This will help prevent blockages.

Material

Usually these are pipes made of cast iron, polypropylene or PVC. The former are considered standard. They cope with impressive loads. Their durability and reliability are amazing.

But today, products from the other two materials are getting more and more fame. Their cost is more attractive, and installation is much easier.

Polypropylene products are purchased very often. Customers love their flexibility and modest weight and their resistance to high waste water temperatures.

It's important to know:it is worth noting that PVC and polypropylene products are stacked only inside the house. Cast iron counterparts can be laid outside.

Pipes made of all these materials, with proper operation, will last a very long time.

Views

Usually, the sewerage system, according to the method of operation, is divided into mixed and separate. Most often, the first type works in private houses.

Types of sewerage systems based on the method of wastewater disposal: gravity and pressure. The second requires colossal costs and efforts. Therefore, the popularity of the former is much higher.

Thus, in private houses usually a mixed gravity sewage system is arranged.

Mounting

An assistant is required to work. The work takes place with polypropylene pipes. Their diameters are 5 and 10 cm. Other necessary things: revisions, tees and elbows, as well as sleeves, clamps for fastening these pipes, rubber cuffs, glue.

The sleeves are placed on those areas where the system crosses walls or floors. Rubber cuffs are applied to the connection areas. And there is powerful insulation made with plumbing sealant.

Pipes are laid with some bias. These are the requirements of SNiP. For this case, the slope is 2–3%. It is largely determined by the diameter of the pipe. The percentage here is the slope in cm / 1 shoulder. meter. For pipes with a more modest diameter, the slope is 3%. Only by observing this rule, it is possible to qualitatively mount a working internal sewage system.

And also a slope of less than 2% and more than 3% is unacceptable. In the first layout, solid elements will remain on the walls of the pipes, a blockage will form. In the second case, the flow flows in these pipes will pick up too high a speed, and the wastewater will be divided into fractions, and the solid elements will settle.

To connect such pipes, glue or rubber seals are used.

Note: you will also need a soldering iron and a perforator for work.

The work starts from the outlet - the section where the internal and external sewers converge. With this beginning, you will not allow these systems to mismatch. Installation of the release goes through the foundation. If it is carried out at a depth inferior to the depth of freezing of the soil in your area, then the pipe is necessarily insulated. Otherwise, the release will freeze, and the sewerage system will be able to work only in warm weather.

If there is no outlet hole in the foundation, it must be arranged.

The required diameter of the sleeve is 13 cm. The sleeve comes out on each side of the base by at least 15 cm. The hole and installation of the sleeve goes with a slope of 2% for external sewage, next to the septic tank. The diameter of the outlet necessarily coincides with the diameter of the riser.

The best position for the riser is the bathroom. So the outlet section for eliminating drains from the toilet will be short. The following tendency operates here: the larger the diameter of the outlet section and the plumbing. device, the closer its position is to the riser.

The laying method is a personal matter. You can make a gasket in boxes, in walls, you can work in an open way. For the installation of pipes with a riser, oblique tees are used. If there is a point in your circuit where the outlets from the shower, bath and sink converge, then the installation of a collector pipe is needed there. Its diameter is 10 cm.

Install water traps to protect your home from bad odors.The revision must be installed on each riser. Each turn of the sewer must end with a cleaning. So, if the sewer is blocked, it will be easier to clean it.

The riser continues upward in the form of a fan pipe. First, a revision is placed at the point of its installation. After that, this pipe is displayed on the roof. Its combination with home ventilation is not allowed.

The exit must necessarily exceed the ridge of the roof, at least 70 cm from the roof and at a distance of 4 m from the windows. Ventilation, chimney and the drain pipe itself must differ in height.

Having assembled the internal sewage system, it must be thoroughly spilled with clean water. This is how the tightness of all joints is tested.

External sewerage

Such a sewage system is a pipe network from the outlet block to a septic tank or a treatment station. The pipes are laid here in the ground.

The pipes must have impressive rigidity and withstand the impact of the soil. And it is also better to run pipes in a bright color so that they are easier to see in depth. The diameter of such pipes is 11 cm.

There are different types of external ventilation. The most primitive are cesspools and storage systems where wastewater is collected. Today, more and more preference is given to various septic tanks and total cleaning stations.

Two-chamber septic tank

Types of septic tanks:

1. Two-chamber.
2. Three-chambered.
3. With biofilter.
4. With one chamber and soil purification.

The septic tank is selected based on:

1. The needs of all residents of the house.
2. The number of these tenants.
3. Type of residence: permanent or temporary.
4. Estimated water consumption. This is how much water each tenant spends on a daily basis. The number of plumbing fixtures in the house and whether there are household appliances there is also important here.
5. The groundwater level in your area.
6. The parameters of the territory itself. The areas for the treatment equipment are calculated here.
7. Soil type.
8. The climate in your area.

System example:

Which septic tank or purification station you buy is also a matter of your budget. And also here it does not hurt to consult with specialists.

It is also important to consider here some criteria regarding the location of such equipment:

1. The garden and the septic tank must be separated by at least 8 m.
2. Any water source and septic tank are separated by at least 20 m.
3. A residential building and a septic tank are separated by at least 5 m.

The main dilemma in the organization of external sewerage is a competent choice of treatment technology. Excavation and laying are not particularly difficult.

As for the general scheme of external sewerage, it necessarily includes:

• a system of trays where waste is concentrated;
• channels for waste disposal to the point of disposal;
• sump (cesspool).

Algorithm for installing external sewerage:

1. Trench creation. It connects the house waste water to the sump. Trench slope: 2 cm / 1 m of pipe in the direction of the sump.
2. The bottom of the trench is covered with a sand cushion. Layer -10-15 cm.
3. A pipeline is laid along this cushion close to the storage tank.
4. The docking point of the pipe with the septic tank is sealed: the pipe is laid along the oval of the cords. The cord is treated with grease.

Requirements for sewerage in a private house

1. For installation, use materials of the required parameters.
2. Make a diagram taking into account all the necessary factors.
3. Do not use poor quality pipes.
4. Do not litter the sewer system with heavy waste.
5. Design the drainage system at the same time as designing the house itself.
6. Install sewers during the construction stages. This is the best option. If it has not been observed, the solution methods have already been described above.

How to make a sewer in a private house, see the tips in the following video:

Decent living conditions cannot be imagined without a well-equipped bathroom and, accordingly, a drainage system. There are some features when installing a sewage system in 2 or more storey buildings, concerning both the general organization scheme and the specific nuances of installation.

General structure of the sewage system

In multi-storey residential buildings, the sewerage system has a rather complex organization. It is preferable that by the beginning of the installation work a project has been drawn up, in which the following should be indicated:

1. Axonometric layout of pipelines and connection points.
2. The list of plumbing equipment and household appliances that will be connected to the drainage system.
3. Pipeline capacity, flow direction and slope value in all sections.

The structure of the system is represented by a tree, from the trunk of which main pipelines diverge, into which connection points are inserted. All branches of the system are located at several levels, conventionally - at the floor level of each floor. The number and length of branches is practically unlimited, however, all of them must have a slope towards the riser of 3% for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and 2% for pipelines of 110 mm.

In the classic version, only one riser is arranged, to which all branches of the system are connected. If the effluent is discharged into a septic tank, it makes sense to separate the discharge of purely organic effluents and those containing a high concentration of household cleaning agents containing chlorine. Also, the device of two risers may be advisable when equipping large country houses, where more than two bathrooms are located on one floor. In such cases, each riser is connected to its own local treatment plant.

An example of a sewerage scheme in a private house: 1 - knee 90 °; 2 - straight tee 90 °; 3 - internal wiring pipe; 4 - plug; 5 - cleaning hatch; 6 - non-ventilated riser; 7 - branch pipe; 8 - revision; 9 - ventilated riser

When determining the structure of individual branches, one should be guided by the principle that points with the largest volume of salvo discharge should be located closer to the riser. For example, if you cut a sink or bath drain between the toilet bowl and the riser, then when the tank is drained, a vacuum is formed, which will draw water out of the siphon water seal. It is for this reason that the discharge of water from the toilet bowls is most often carried out directly into the riser.

Riser device

It is reasonable to install the riser immediately after the construction of the building box is completed. On the one hand, this makes it possible to provide basic living conditions at the time of further construction work. On the other hand, sewer pipes can be hidden under a layer of decoration.

The location of the riser must be chosen carefully and in advance, because its position on the plan of the house is strictly tied to the input of the outer part of the sewer. When draining, the pipes make a lot of noise, so the riser should be placed either in a technical room isolated from the inhabited area, or in a technical well equipped with sound insulation.

The riser should not be walled up tightly, it should have at least one section for which access is provided through a technical hatch. In these places, plumbing revisions are installed - bends with screw plugs. The place of installation of the revision must be chosen so that it provides access to the longest possible section of the pipe, and also so that the room where the hatch is located is spacious enough for maintenance.

Ventilated sewerage system: 1 - outlet to the septic tank; 2 - riser with a diameter of 110 mm; 3 - fan pipe; 4 - deflector

Another requirement for the riser is that it must continue above the tie-in point of the highest branch. This is required for the organization of the so-called waste outlet, due to which the vacuum in the system is compensated, which prevents the discharge of a large volume of water, as well as ventilation of the riser in case of malfunctions of the hydraulic lock siphons. As a rule, the fan drainage of the riser continues to the roof itself, where the sewage system is connected to the street through a roof cut with a deflector. It is important that the fan deflector is at least 5 meters away from windows and ventilation ducts.

Connection points on floors

Before organizing the branching of the sewer system, you should decide on the location of the connection points. This seemingly trivial task has some rules that ensure both comfortable use of the sewage system and its flawless long-term service. The configuration of the branches is primarily determined by the household organization of the premises.

As a rule, there are only two bathrooms on the second floor: one is shared and one is attached to the bedroom. It is preferable that both of these bathrooms have a common wall, at which the riser is located. At floor level, a cross is cut into the riser with two 110 mm taps and two 50 mm taps. Sinks, bidets and showers are connected to small outlets, and toilets drains to large ones.

There are more connection points on the ground floor. There is a kitchen here, in which a connection is required for a kitchen sink and a dishwasher, for which it is enough to lead a branch of 50 mm of a pipeline of arbitrary length from the riser. In the same way, the sewer is supplied to the laundry, where the washing and drying machines are located. Also, the first floor is characterized by the location of the main bathroom, where the bathroom itself, a sink and a toilet with a bidet are connected, that is, it is convenient to place this room under one of the bathrooms on the second floor or with a small distance. In some houses, a guest toilet can be organized, as a rule, it is placed next to the main bathroom and is connected with one 110 mm outlet for the toilet and one 50 mm for the mini-sink. One of the useful innovations for a modern country house is a sewer supply to the back door, where a grate with a receiving funnel for washing shoes and pets for pets is mounted on the floor.

Sololift in the forced sewerage system: 1 - sewerage pump (sololift); 2 - plumbing connected to the sewerage; 3 - the height of the rise of sewage 4-6 m; 4 - sewer riser; 5 - septic tank

If the house has a basement, it can also be equipped with a sewerage system, combined with the general system. For this, it is necessary to install a so-called sololift - a lifting pump, through which the drains will rise to the level of the first floor, and discharged into a common drainage outlet through a tee located below the cross. The drain line for drains from the basement must be equipped with a check valve. The very idea of \u200b\u200brunning a sewer to the basement may seem dubious, but this makes it possible to place a laundry in an area where the noise from it will not disturb the residents, as well as organize a technical or "dirty" wash.

Installation of pipelines

Modern materials for the installation of sewer systems are designed so that not only a professional plumber, but in general anyone who wishes, could cope with the work. However, there is a certain regulation containing the rules and description of the installation process.

The laying of sewer pipes in a private house can be done in two ways. If the floors in the building are monolithic or solid, the pipes are routed at a level above the floor of the upper floor, thus, the connection points are located at a sufficiently significant height, and the pipes themselves are hidden under the sheet cladding of the walls, or in a false box. This approach is acceptable for routing pipes under a sink or washing machine, however, when connecting a bath or a drain in the floor at a considerable distance from the riser, the height of the inlet pipe turns out to be unacceptable. In such cases, the pipes are led down through the ceiling, and then pulled to the riser along the shortest path and hidden behind a suspended ceiling structure and enclosed in a sound insulating shell. In the case of frame ceilings, this task is easier to solve. The slab is often thick enough to provide the required slope, and the small diameter of the pipes allows perforations in the structural beams.

Plastic sewer pipes and fittings for them are a kind of constructor that is assembled without the use of special tools. Sealing of the joints is ensured by sealing rubber bands installed in the grooves on the inner surface of the sockets. It is convenient to first remove all rubber rings, assemble the system "dry", making sure that the pipelines are located correctly and the slopes are correct, after which you can proceed to sealing all joints.

Related Videos

In order for living in a country house to be as comfortable as possible, the main communications in the form of sewerage and water supply must be carried out.

Of course, sewerage in a private house with your own hands is possible without any problems.

If you do not live in a house outside the city on a permanent basis, then there is no need to purchase expensive equipment. It is quite easy to get by with a septic tank.

The importance of sewage

Very often, in practice, the function of collecting wastewater is assigned to a cesspool. In the case when the house does not have a plumbing system, the use of this option is quite logical, however, in the case of a large volume of drained water and the device of various plumbing fixtures, this will certainly not be enough.

In principle, absolutely anyone can drain a house, and it is only important to follow at all stages of the project, which was developed in advance, and included various schemes of internal and external piping.

Diy sewerage scheme inside the country house

First of all, these are all places where plumbing fixtures are connected, such as a sink, a toilet, as well as a bath or shower.

The external network is all pipes that divert wastewater from the house and the storage or treatment plant. Of course, the device of the correct sewage system is the correct implementation of a huge number of various nuances.

After the project is prepared, you can proceed to calculating the size of the pipes, the amount of required material that may be needed for work, as well as the choice of a sewer collector.

As soon as we have a diagram of how each point from the system will be located, it is allowed to purchase material that will be needed in the future and proceed to installation.

First of all, if you do not know how to make a sewer, then the main riser must be installed. For the mandatory removal of all gases, a small part from above is slightly noticeable above the existing level at the roof, or the second option is brought up at the end of the work.

Types of pipes

Made of PVC material. The main advantage of this type of pipes is that the material is absolutely not subject to, in principle, either overgrowth or unwanted corrosion.

The inner surface of them is sufficiently smooth, which allows the unimpeded passage of drains. Installation is performed most often by the socket method. The price of such pipes allows everyone to purchase them.

Cast iron pipes are a durable and always reliable option, however, due to their rather large weight, their installation is quite difficult. Also, the price for such pipes is much higher than for ordinary plastic ones, to which, in fact, everyone is almost used to it.

You can see a photo of the sewage system in the country, and you will see that, in principle, there is practically no external difference between these two options. Then why overpay?

Ceramic pipes stand out from the rest with their amazing characteristics, but their cost is far from affordable for everyone, so they are chosen less and less every year.

After the installation of the main riser is completed, the next step is the laying of horizontal pipelines. During installation, it is very important to avoid various 90 degree turns as this only interferes with the movement of drains.

If you are interested in a sewage system made of concrete rings, then keep in mind that this is not only a rather expensive option, but also extremely difficult to install directly.

It will be enough for all plumbing fixtures to have siphons with an additional water seal in their kit. This will act as an obstacle to the penetration of various unwanted odors into the room.

Note!

An important condition when connecting the pipe from the toilet is that the pipe in diameter should not be less than 10 cm.

A septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings has many different advantages. For example, this option is one of the most affordable, but at the same time completely unpretentious during use.

However, speaking of the minuses, it should be noted that the mandatory cleaning of the chamber from solid waste using sewage equipment.

Diy sewer photo

Note!

An urgent question that torments everyone who wants to live in private country houses without the ability to connect to a central water supply and sewerage system, how to make an autonomous sewage system. After all, without it, it is not possible to fully use such benefits of civilization as a bath, shower, kitchen sink, washing machine and much more. The sewage system in a private house can be equipped in different ways, which we will talk about in this article. Choosing the right system for your individual conditions and needs is even more important than putting it into practice.

What can be a sewage system - a private house with permanent and temporary residence

The option of arranging a drainage system in private houses is selected depending on several conditions:

• House with permanent or temporary residence.
• How many people permanently live in the house.
• What is the daily water consumption per person in the house (depends on the number of water consumers, such as a bathroom, shower, toilet, sink, washbasin, washing machine, etc.)
• What is the level of groundwater.
• What is the size of the site, how much space can be used for treatment systems.
• What is the structure and type of soil on the site.
• Climatic conditions of the area.

For more details on the requirements, see the relevant sections of the SanPin and SNiP.

Conventionally, all sewage systems in a private house can be divided into just two types:

• Accumulation systems (cesspool without a bottom, sealed container for drains).
• Wastewater treatment plants (the simplest single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning, two-chamber septic tank - overflowing wells with natural cleaning, two-three-chamber septic tank with a filtration field, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank (aerotank) with a constant air supply).

The most ancient, proven by centuries and even millennia, method of arranging a sewage system is a cesspool. Some 50 - 70 years ago there was no alternative to this method. However, people did not use as much water in private homes as they do today.

A cesspool is a well without a bottom. The walls of the cesspool can be made of bricks, concrete rings, concrete or other material. Soil remains at the bottom. When sewage from the house enters the pit, more or less clean water seeps into the soil, clearing itself. Fecal matter and other solid organic waste settle on the bottom, accumulating. Over time, the well fills with solid waste, then it must be cleaned.

Previously, the walls of the cesspool were not made waterproof, then when filling the pit they simply buried it and dug out a new one in another place.

I would like to note right away that a sewage system in a private house using a cesspool is possible only if the average daily volume of wastewater is less than 1 m3. In this case, soil microorganisms that live in the soil and feed on organic matter manage to process the water that penetrates into the soil through the bottom of the pit. If the volume of wastewater is more than this norm, the water does not undergo sufficient purification, penetrates into the soil and pollutes the groundwater. This is fraught with the fact that wells and other water sources may be contaminated within a radius of 50 m. The addition of microorganisms to the cesspool somewhat reduces the unpleasant odor emanating from it, and also speeds up the process of water purification. But, nevertheless, it is not worth the risk.

Conclusion... A cesspool without a bottom can be built if the house is visited 2 - 3 days a week and does not consume a lot of water. In this case, the level of occurrence of groundwater must be at least 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise contamination of the soil and the water source cannot be avoided. Despite the lowest cost of the arrangement, the cesspool is not popular in modern country houses and cottages.

Sealed tank - storage tank

On the site near the house, a sealed container is installed into which sewage and waste from all over the house flow through pipes. This container can be off-the-shelf, store-bought, and made of plastic, metal, or other material. Or it can be mounted independently from concrete rings, the bottom is made of concrete, and the cover is made of metal. The main condition for installing a sewage system in a private house of this type is complete tightness. Corrugated pipes pragma are suitable for sewerage.

When the container is full, it must be emptied. To do this, a cesspool machine is called, the call of which costs from 15 to 30 cu. The frequency of emptying the container, as well as the required volume, depends on the amount of waste. For example, if 4 people permanently live in the house, use a bath, shower, sink, toilet, washing machine, then the minimum volume of the storage tank should be 8 m3, it will have to be cleaned every 10 - 13 days.

Conclusion... A sealed cesspool is one of the options for how you can carry out sewerage in a private house if the groundwater level in the area is high. This will completely protect the soil and water sources from possible pollution. The disadvantage of such a sewage system is that you will often have to call a sewer truck. To do this, from the very beginning, it is necessary to correctly calculate the place of installation of the tank in order to provide a convenient access to it. The bottom of the pit or container should not be deeper than 3 m from the soil surface, otherwise the cleaning hose will not reach the bottom. The lid of the container must be insulated to protect the pipeline from freezing. For a similar sewage system in a private house, the cost depends on the material of the container. The cheapest option would be to purchase second-hand eurocubes, the most expensive is concrete filling or brick. In addition, monthly cleaning costs.

Single-chamber septic tank - the simplest option for soil cleaning

A single-chamber septic tank is not far from the cesspool, very often it is called that. It is a well, at the bottom of which crushed stone is filled with a layer of at least 30 cm, and on top of coarse sand with the same layer. Wastewater flows through pipes into a well, where water, seeping through a layer of sand, gravel, and then the soil, is cleared by 50%. Adding sand and gravel improves the quality of water purification and partially faeces, but does not fundamentally solve the problem.

Conclusion... Conducting sewerage in a private house using a single-chamber septic tank is impossible with permanent residence and large volumes of drains. Only for houses with temporary residence and low water table. After a while, rubble and sand will need to be completely replaced, as they will silt.

Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells

As one of the economical options for sewerage, which can be installed independently, the arrangement of overflow settling wells and filtering wells is popular everywhere.

This sewage system in a private house consists of two wells: one with a sealed bottom, the second without a bottom, but with powders, as in the previous method (crushed stone and sand). Waste water from the house enters the first well, where solid organic waste and feces sink to the bottom, fatty ones float to the surface, and more or less clarified water is formed between them. At a height of about 2/3 of the first well, it is connected to the second well with an overflow pipe, located slightly at an angle so that water can drain there without hindrance. Partially clarified water enters the second well, where it seeps through the powder of crushed stone, sand and soil, is purified even more and leaves.

The first well is a sump and the second is a filter well. Over time, a critical mass of faeces accumulates in the first well, for the removal of which it is necessary to call a sewer truck. This will have to be done about once every 4 to 6 months. To reduce the unpleasant odor, microorganisms are added to the first well, which decompose the feces.

Overflow sewerage in a private house: photo - example

A two-chamber septic tank can be made independently from concrete rings, concrete or brick, or you can purchase a ready-made (plastic) one from the manufacturer. In the finished two-chamber septic tank, additional cleaning will take place with the help of special microorganisms.

Conclusion... It is possible to install a sewerage system in a private house from two overflow wells only if the groundwater level, even in a flood, is 1 m lower from the bottom of the second well. The ideal conditions are sandy or sandy loam soil on the site. After 5 years, the crushed stone and sand in the filter well will have to be replaced.

Septic tank with filtration field - biological and soil treatment

We turn to the description of more or less serious cleaning systems that allow you not to worry about environmental pollution.

This type of septic tank is one container, divided into 2 - 3 sections or several separate well containers connected by pipes. Most often, having decided to equip just this type of sewage, a factory-made septic tank is purchased.

In the first tank, waste water settles, as in the previous method (settling well). Through a pipe, partially clarified water enters a second container or section, where anaerobic bacteria decompose organic residues. Even more clarified water enters the filtration fields.

Filtration fields represent the area underground where wastewater is treated by soil. Thanks to the large area (about 30 m2), the water is 80% purified. The ideal case is if the soil is sandy or sandy loam, otherwise you will have to equip an artificial filtration field from rubble and sand. After passing through the filtration fields, the water is collected in pipelines and discharged into drainage ditches or wells. No trees or edible vegetables should be planted above the filtration fields, only a flower bed is allowed.

Over time, the fields become silted up, and they need to be cleaned, or rather replaced by gravel and sand. You can imagine how much work will have to be done, and what your site will turn into after that.

Conclusion... Laying a sewerage system in a private house, assuming the presence of a filtration field, is possible only if the groundwater level is below 2.5 - 3 m. Otherwise, this is a rather constructive solution, provided there is sufficient free space. Also, do not forget that the distance from the filtration fields to water sources and residential buildings should be more than 30 m.

Septic tank with biofilter - natural cleaning station

The deep cleaning station allows you to complete the installation of the sewage system in a private house, even if the groundwater level is very high.

The septic tank is a container divided into 3 - 4 sections. It is better to purchase it from a trusted manufacturer, after consulting with professionals for the required volume and equipment. Of course, the price for such a sewage system in a private house is not the lowest, it starts from $ 1200.

In the first chamber of the septic tank, water settles, in the second, the decomposition of organic matter by anaerobic microorganisms, the third chamber serves to separate water, since in the fourth one decomposes organic matter with the help of aerobic bacteria, which need a constant flow of air. For this, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, which rises 50 cm above the ground level. Aerobic bacteria are added to a filter installed on a pipe leading from the third section to the fourth. In fact, this is the field of filtration - only in miniature and concentrated. Due to the small area of \u200b\u200bwater movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, the water is thoroughly purified up to 90 - 95%. Such water can be safely used for technical needs - watering the garden, washing a car and much more. To do this, a pipe is diverted from their fourth section, leading either to a tank for storing purified water, or to a drainage ditch or well, where it is simply absorbed into the ground.

Sewerage system in a private house - scheme of work:

Conclusion... A septic tank with a biofilter is a good solution for a private home with permanent residence. Microorganisms can be added to a septic tank by simply pouring them down the toilet. There are no restrictions on the use of such a treatment plant. The indisputable advantage is that it does not require electricity supply. The only drawback is that sewerage wiring in a private house requires permanent residence, since without the constant arrival of wastewater, bacteria die. When new strains are added, they begin to be active only after two weeks.

Forced air septic tank - artificial cleaning station

An accelerated cleaning station, where natural processes occur artificially. The construction of a sewage system in a private house using an aeration tank will require supplying electricity to a septic tank to connect an air pump and an air distributor.

Such a septic tank consists of three chambers or separate containers connected to each other. Water enters the first chamber through the sewer pipes, where it settles, and solid waste precipitates. Partially clarified water from the first chamber is pumped into the second.

The second chamber is actually an aeration tank, where water is mixed with activated sludge, which consists of microorganisms and plants. All microorganisms and bacteria of activated sludge are aerobic. It is for their full-fledged life that forced aeration is needed.

The water mixed with sludge enters the third chamber - a clarifier for deeper cleaning. Then the sludge is pumped back into the aeration tank with a special pump.

Forced air supply provides a fairly fast wastewater treatment, which can then be used for technical needs.

Conclusion... An aeration tank is an expensive but sometimes necessary pleasure. The price starts at $ 3700. There are no restrictions on the installation of such a sewage system. Disadvantages - the need for electricity and permanent residence, otherwise the activated sludge bacteria will die.

Water supply and sewerage of a private house - general rules

Certain restrictions apply to the location of sewage facilities.

Septic tankshould be located:

• no closer than 5 m from a residential building;
• no closer than 20 - 50 m from a water source (well, well, reservoir);
• no closer than 10 m from the garden.

House must be remote:

• 8 m from filter wells;
• 25 m from filter fields;
• 50 m from the aeration treatment plants;
• 300 m from drain wells or stations.

The pipes leading to the septic tank must be insulated so that they do not freeze in winter. To do this, they are wrapped with heat-insulating material and inserted into asbestos-cement pipes. External sewerage wiring in a private house is carried out with pipes with a diameter of 100 - 110 mm, the slope should be 2 cm by 2 m, i.e. 2 °, in practice they do a little more - 5 - 7 ° (with a margin). But you should not joke with this matter, since a larger slope will lead to the fact that water will quickly pass through the pipes, and feces will linger and clog them, and a smaller angle of inclination will not ensure the movement of wastewater through the pipes at all. It is advisable to lay the pipes so that there are no turns and corners. For internal distribution of sewer pipes, a diameter of 50 mm is sufficient. If the house has more than one floor, and baths, sinks, and a toilet are also installed on the upper floors, then a riser with a diameter of 200 mm is used to drain the wastewater down.

If you decide that the sewerage of a private house with your own hands is within your reach, be sure to take into account all the restrictions of SanPin and SNiP concerning the location and design of the sewerage. In order not to spoil relations with neighbors, consider the location of their water sources and other buildings.

A private house sewerage project is extremely important; you should not try to do without it. Sewerage is not a system that tolerates approximation. Contact design bureaus or architects, let the professionals create a working project for you, taking into account all the characteristics of the soil, site, climate and operating conditions. It is better if this project is completed together with the project of the house itself before the start of its construction. This will greatly facilitate installation.

If you are interested in the question of how to make a sewer in a private house at a high level of groundwater, then based on all of the above, these may be the following options:

• Sealed container for waste accumulation.
• Septic tank with biofilter.
• Aeration treatment station (aerotank).

Directly work on the installation of the sewer system in a private house is not so difficult. It is necessary to spread pipes around the house that will collect wastewater from different sources, connect them to a collector and run through the foundation or under it along the ground to the septic tank. You can do earthwork yourself, or you can hire an excavator. But choosing the right sewage system and drawing up a project is much more important.

Sewerage in a private house: video - example

Gone are the days when in country and private houses all the amenities were on the street. Now, to create basic comfort, it is necessary to lay a sewer in a private house. This very important task is not difficult.

To lay a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, you need to start by creating a competent project. When constructing a new building, it is important to design drains not according to the residual principle, but in combination with all systems, since sewerage is one of the most important points of life support for a modern house.

And also it is necessary to clarify in advance - is it possible to connect private housing to the centralized sewerage system. This will save money and time for construction. You need to know what kind of soil can lie near the house, geological exploration will help with this.

The project for the sewer system of a private house should include the following items:

Installation of external sewerage

According to SNiP 2.04.03-85 “Sewerage. External networks and structures "the type of cushion for the sewer pipeline depends on the bearing capacity of the soil. In trenches in rocky soils, a pillow with a thickness of 100 mm from carefully compacted sand or gravel is provided. An artificial foundation is made in peaty, silty and other weak soils. For other types of soils, it is enough to carefully tamp the immediate bottom of the trench.

The depth of the pipe supply depends on the level of soil freezing in a given area. The top of the water supply must be below the freezing point. If the height of the soil layer is less than 700 mm, the drainpipes must be insulated and protected from damage if ground transport is supposed to travel from above.

The bottom of the trench must be cleared of debris and large stones, and the base is being prepared. The pipeline must be brought to the house from the point of discharge of the sewer with a minimum number of turns. If they cannot be avoided, then smooth pipe bends are used. Pipes and fittings are connected to each other using sealant.

The sewage supply to a private house should be under the necessary:

• for a pipe with a diameter of 160 mm, a slope of 0.008 is required;
• for a supply pipe with a size of 110 mm - 0.02;
• a pipeline with a diameter of 50 mm must be laid at a slope of 0.03.

At the exit from the building, a metal sleeve is inserted into the foundation hole for laying pipes in it. The remaining space must be filled with insulation, for example, mineral wool.

Fulfilling these simple conditions, you can protect yourself from a sudden breakthrough of the external sewage system or freezing it in winter. For example, the process of repair work during the cold season is complicated by digging a trench in frozen ground.

Collection and storage of effluents

In the absence of an opportunity, several options for the local system of discharge, storage and treatment of effluents are used:

• cesspool;
• septic tank.

Traditional cesspools are not the best option from an environmental point of view. But they are the most economical way to organize an autonomous storage of household waste. Choosing this method, it is important to properly organize the placement of the pit:

• The distance between the cesspool and the well must be more than 25 m.
• The drainage well should be located further than 5 m from the house.
• With a sewage capacity of 8 sq. meters, the distance increases to 8 m.
• The distance from the cesspool to the border of the site must be at least 1.5 m.
• A cesspool is located downstream of the groundwater flow to prevent runoff from entering the wells.
• The cesspool is located below the level of the house.

The material for the construction of the cesspool is traditionally red brick. If there is a possibility of an entrance, special equipment equips a pit from ready-made ones with a pre-concreted bottom. The structure is covered with a slab with an inspection hatch and a built-in ventilation pipe.

A more progressive solution for organizing waste collection is a septic tank. It usually consists of two or three chambers. In the first chamber, the solid fraction settles and decomposition occurs with the help of bacteria. The filtered liquid is sent to the next tank for further purification. In the last chamber, the purified liquid seeps through the gravel base into the soil. The septic tank is necessarily equipped with a ventilation pipe with an umbrella. The structure must be freed from the deposited solid waste every 5-10 years. Such constructions are already obtained in finished form.

Internal wiring

In addition to arranging an external sewage system, it is important to know how to properly lay pipes inside the house. There are many nuances:

• Water intake points should be located as compact as possible for optimal organization of the sewerage system.
• The toilet is connected to the riser separately from other devices to prevent them from sucking drains from the toilet.
• Drains from sinks, sinks, showers and other plumbing equipment should be connected to the common riser higher than the drain from the toilet.
• The slope of the pipes should be 2-9 °.
• Every four meters of the riser, revisions should be installed at a height of more than 1 m from the floor.
• If the sewer pipes are not hidden under the floor, then revisions must be installed before each turn.
• The riser is equipped with a ventilation pipe with its outlet above the level of the roof from 70 cm. This will protect the home from unpleasant odors.
• In unheated rooms, the pipeline must be insulated.
• Parts of the pipeline at the joints are coated with sealant.
• For the organization of drains from sinks and sinks, a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is enough, from a toilet, bath and shower - 110 mm.
• The diameter of the riser must be at least 110 mm.
• The smaller the pipe diameter, the greater its slope should be.

Connection diagram of a riser with an external sewage pipe

It is advisable to soundproof the sewer pipes (this will increase the level of comfort of housing) by arranging a drywall box and filling it with mineral wool.

If the sewage system is chosen under the floor in a private house, then additional conditions according to SNiP must be observed. In addition to the fact that with such an installation, the height of the room is lost, it is not always possible to install an underground sewage system. It is forbidden to install it:

• in premises for storing food;
• in living rooms (bedrooms, guest rooms or children's rooms);
• in rooms for long-term stay of people (offices, study rooms);
• in rooms with installed electrical equipment.

Important! The configuration of the underground sewage system should be as simple as possible, without unnecessary turns, transitions and fittings.

When installing the drainage system under the ceiling, a number of rules must be observed:

• The diameter of the pipes should not be more than 110 mm.
• Fittings are mounted at a 45 ° angle.
• Fasteners are installed at a distance from each other equal to the pipe diameter multiplied by 10.
• The presence of underground wiring in the bathroom should not create an excess of the floor over the rest of the premises.
• Higher requirements are imposed on the quality of the materials used, since to repair the laid network, it will be necessary to break the floors.

Do-it-yourself installation of the internal wiring of sewage pipes in a private house is a rather simple task, but it requires care and a serious attitude to the details that distinguish high-quality repairs.